Papers by Gizem Kiziltunali

This article focuses on Hussein Chalayan’s Memory Dress as a case study and applies content analy... more This article focuses on Hussein Chalayan’s Memory Dress as a case study and applies content analysis on it so as to point out the similarities between the critical avant-garde method of Derridean deconstruction and avant-garde fashion design. A coding schema is utilized to standardize the content analysis conducted on the variety of styles of the Memory Dress. The study focuses on the design details of the Memory Dress such as the convertible high-stand collar, the shiny button, the vertical needle stitch, the horizontal double stitches and the chest patch pocket and studies each category separately under the Derridean concepts of intertextuality, trace and différance. The coding schema reveals the visual equivalence of each Derridean concept through the qualitative analysis conducted on the visual images of the garment. This way, the article explains an avant-garde garment’s structure in relation to deconstructivist norms. With such intention, the article demonstrates how a garment...

Gaziantep University Journal of Social Sciences, 2022
This article focuses on Hussein Chalayan's Memory Dress as a case study and applies content analy... more This article focuses on Hussein Chalayan's Memory Dress as a case study and applies content analysis on it so as to point out the similarities between the critical avant-garde method of Derridean deconstruction and avant-garde fashion design. A coding schema is utilized to standardize the content analysis conducted on the variety of styles of the Memory Dress. The study focuses on the design details of the Memory Dress such as the convertible high-stand collar, the shiny button, the vertical needle stitch, the horizontal double stitches and the chest patch pocket and studies each category separately under the Derridean concepts of intertextuality, trace and différance. The coding schema reveals the visual equivalence of each Derridean concept through the qualitative analysis conducted on the visual images of the garment. This way, the article explains an avant-garde garment's structure in relation to deconstructivist norms. With such intention, the article demonstrates how a garment structurally embodies and visually communicates the Derridean notions of intertextuality, trace and différance. By materializing abstract, philosophical terms on design details, and motifs, the article highlights the parallelism between postmodern critical thinking, and avant-garde creativity.

Visual Communication, 2018
This article aims to analyse some of the popular activist posters and images related to the Gezi ... more This article aims to analyse some of the popular activist posters and images related to the Gezi Park resistance that took place in Turkey in 2013. The author argues that the theoretical approach of détournement is the driving force in the formation of the activist ‘identity’ and ‘imagery’ related to Gezi protests. Further, through detourning the attacks of the government, the article examines how the activist posters and images caused shifts in meaning and generated the negation and recreation of signs and significations. In this way, it can be seen that détournement as a subversive theoretical approach can be reconstructive while deconstructing verbal and censorship attacks from the government. The article engages with the word Çapulcu (looters) in an address by the former Prime Minister against the Gezi protesters and the penguin documentary used as a censorship element during the protests. It analyses how détournement applied by the protesters to these attacks led to the creatio...

This thesis analyses deconstructivist fashion in a wider framework: from the ways it is defined a... more This thesis analyses deconstructivist fashion in a wider framework: from the ways it is defined and its designers. Arguing against positions that classify both material and conceptual features within the single area of ‘‘deconstructivist’’ fashion, it proposes Malabou’s plasticity as an additional methodology to Derridean deconstruction. By utilizing Malabou’s plasticity and introducing the concept/process of de-design(ing), the project claims deconstruction to be a twofold process: 1.The technical de-designing of a garment 2.The conceptual deconstruction caused by the de-designed garment. In terms of its designers, the thesis applies these two processes to the unconventional garments of what it classifies as three different waves of deconstructivist fashion: Japanese, Belgian and Turkish. The thesis also proposes the emergence of a third wave deconstructivist fashion by focusing on the unconventional designs of Bora Aksu and Hussein Chalayan. To study these designs of the third wav...

Journal of Visual Communication, 2018
This article aims to analyse some of the popular activist posters and images related to the Gezi ... more This article aims to analyse some of the popular activist posters and images related to the Gezi Park resistance that took place in Turkey in 2013. The author argues that the theoretical approach of détournement is the driving force in the formation of the activist 'identity' and 'imagery' related to Gezi protests. Further, through detourning the attacks of the government, the article examines how the activist posters and images caused shifts in meaning and generated the negation and recreation of signs and significations. In this way, it can be seen that détournement as a subversive theoretical approach can be reconstructive while deconstructing verbal and censorship attacks from the government. The article engages with the word Çapulcu (looters) in an address by the former Prime Minister against the Gezi pro-testers and the penguin documentary used as a censorship element during the protests. It analyses how détournement applied by the protesters to these attacks led to the creation of a shared Gezi identity and image.
Media Psychology Review, 2016
In many online profiles, identities of individuals are not what they actually are, but they are a... more In many online profiles, identities of individuals are not what they actually are, but they are a simulation of what beings, in fact, wish they were. This study proposes that social media generates ideal identities that feed off what actual identities lack in real life. In this regard, the study asserts that identity construction on social media deconstructs the grand narrative of a single identity an individual has in the actual/ physical world. Creating multi-dimensions of a single identity, social media endows
Conference Presentations by Gizem Kiziltunali

Deconstruction in fashion is described as the making of incomplete and destroyed pieces of clothi... more Deconstruction in fashion is described as the making of incomplete and destroyed pieces of clothing. This process results in an endless creation with flavors from past, present and future. Besides being a stance of anti-fashion, deconstruction is a way of theorizing fashion as a system. In this paper, I argue that fashion, as a whole, is deconstruction. Firstly, fashion deconstructs itself so as to reconstruct and become fashionable again. Secondly, just like deconstruction, fashion does not create but reinterprets designs from past, present and future possibilities and lastly, this interpretive innovation process remains unfinished-forever recycling itself. This paper has two parts. First, it describes the contextual field of deconstructive fashion in theoretical terms. Deconstruction involves distorting conventional meaning patterns. Coined by the French philosopher Jacques Derrida, deconstruction is described as a term in his book Of Grammatology in 1967. Fashion was first named as deconstruction by the 'fashion writers following the Deconstructivist Architecture exhibition in 1988 at MOMA' (Gill, 1998). Second, the paper looks at the practice of deconstructive fashion through the work of a key designer of this method Hussein Chalayan. Chalayan made his appearance in the fashion scene in 1990s and marked this decade with his edgy and deconstructive designs. Chalayan's deconstructive memory dress from his collection Echoform (A/W 99-00) shows the deconstructive nature of fashion. Fashion's deconstructive operational mechanism is exemplified in Chalayan's denim made memory dress. Baring the suggestion of past time, the design of this garment repeats itself in its similar replications with slight differences, marking out the elements of fashion's own system: an annihilation of itself so as to be recreated, repetition with touches of minor differences (innovation), a constantly recycled nostalgia both in materials and designs and endless meaning and interpretation possibilities.
Books by Gizem Kiziltunali

Languages of politics, 2023
This edited collection consists of research papers dealing with different interdisciplinary subto... more This edited collection consists of research papers dealing with different interdisciplinary subtopics from the multifaceted interplay between language and the political sphere. Being intertwined and thus inseparable, language and politics have received a lot of scholarly attention in the last 30 years. The papers published in this collection are at the intersection of several disciplines including critical discourse studies, political science, media, political psychology and sociology. They report on cutting-edge empirical research with discursively communicated political ideas and politicians’ utilization of language to persuade the voters to think, behave and vote in a certain way. The papers comprise quantitative, qualitative or mixed methodological approaches (re)addressing multiple social theories and perspectives and challenging existing paradigms. They contribute to burgeoning discussions of theoretical approaches and nuanced case studies in the field placing language as the central medium of politics.
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Papers by Gizem Kiziltunali
Conference Presentations by Gizem Kiziltunali
Books by Gizem Kiziltunali