GUIDELINES FOR HERBAL COSMECTICS by

private bodies like cosmos

With respect to preservative, emollients, foaming agents,

emulsifiers

NAME:-ASHWINI SANJAY SONAWANE

FIRST YEAR M-PHARM(PHARMACEUTICS)
GUIDED BY: DR BHALEKAR SIR
AISSMS COLLEGE OF PHARMACY
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 contents
1) WHAT IS COSMECTICS
2) COSMOS-INTRODUACTION
3) MAIN OBJECTIVE OF COSMOS-STANDARD
4) THE DOCUMENTS PUBLISHED
5) ORIGIN AND PROCESSING OF INGREDIENTS
6) COMPOSITION OF TOTAL PRODUCT
7) STORAGE, MANUFACTURING AND PACKAGING
8) ENVIRONMENTAL MANAGEMENT
9) LABELING AND COMMUNICATION
10) INSPECTION, CERTIFICATION AND CONTROL
11) REFERANCES
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 cosmetics
 Any article intended to be rubbed, poured,
sprinkled, sprayed, introduced to or applied to
any part of human body for cleansing,
beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering
the appearances of human body are cosmetics.
 HERBAL COSMECTICS:- are the
preparations consisting of one or
more herbs or processed herbs in
specified quantities to provide
specific cosmetic benefits.
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 COSMOS-INTRODUCTION

 Cosmetics organic and natural standard

1. Sets certification requirement for organic

and natural cosmetics product in Europe .
2. The standard is recognized globally by the
cosmetics industry.

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  In 2002 five European organizations responsible
for setting organic and natural cosmetics
standard met at a trade show to share ideas for
standards to be used globally. these five COSMOS
members are:

 BDIH (GERMANY)
 Cosmebio(france)
 Ecocerts greenlife SAS(france)
 ICEA(Italy)
 Soil association(great britain)

who are the founder of the COSMOS-standard

AISBL(an international non-profit association
registered in Belgium)
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 Main objectives of COSMOS-
STANDARD
Establishing a “sustainable development”

That would reconcile economic progress, social

responsibility and maintained natural balance
of the planet.

Is project in which cosmetics sector is willing to

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  To stimulate processes for sustainable production
and consumption, the organic and natural
cosmetics sector is using some simple rule
governed by the principles of prevention and
safety at all levels of the chain from production
of row materials to the distribution of finished
products.
These rules are:
1. Promoting the use of products from organic
agriculture, and respecting biodiversity.
2. Using natural resources responsibly, and
respecting the environment
3. Using processing and manufacturing that are
clean and respectful of human health and the
environment.
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4. Integrating and developing the concept of
 The documents published with
the standard include:

 The control manual: describes how the

control system works
 The labeling rules: explains how to use
COSMOS labels.
 The technical guide: additional information

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  To facilitate the translation of these rules at the level of
a Standard, it is necessary to distinguish the five
categories of ingredients contained in a cosmetic
product (listed below in ascending order of human
intervention):
 1. water – vital and basic raw material in product
development; its quality is essential;
 2. mineral ingredients – interesting and necessary,
but not renewable; they require clear environmental
rules in their use, and in further processing;
 3. The physically processed agro-ingredients
 4. chemically processed agro-ingredients-
certifiable by using agricultural organic row material
and manufacturing processes that are clean and
authorized, all under the umbrella of “green chemistry”
 5. other ingredients
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  This standard applies to cosmetics products
marketed as organic or natural and cosmetics
ingredients with organic content. To be certified
these products must comply with defined criteria
on:

 Origin and processing of ingredients.

 Composition of total product.
 Storage, manufacturing and packaging.
 Labeling and communication.
 Inspection, certification and control.

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 Origin and processing of
ingredients
6.1- ingredients
1. Water
2. Minerals and ingredients of mineral origin
3. Physically processed agro-ingredients
4. Chemically processed agro-ingredients
5. Other ingredients

6.2 calculation rules for organic percentage

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 Composition of total product
7.1 Rules for cosmetics products under organic certification
7.1.1 ingredients
at least 95% of the physically processed agro-
ingredients must be organic
7.1.2 total product
at least 20% of the total product must be organic
7.2 rules for cosmetics products under natural certification
There is no requirement to use a minimum level of
organic ingredients
7.3 calculation rules for natural origin percentage
% natural origin of total=[weight of total product-weight of
non-natural origin ingredients(appendix V.1)-weight of
petrochemical moieties(appendix V.3)/weight of all
ingredients]*100
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 Storage, manufacturing and
packaging
 8.1 storage
 8.2 manufacturing
 8.3 packaging
 8.4 fabrics

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 Accepted material Not accepted material

wood Materials polyvinyl

chloride(PVC) and other
chloride plastic
Aluminium polystyrene

PE, PET, PP, PETG Material or substance that

contain have been derived
from, or manufacturing using,
genetically modify organisms
Glass

PAPERBOARD

PLA (non GMD)

Any other 100% natural origin
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 Environmental management
 9.1 environmental management plan
 9.2 cleaning and hygiene

Following disinfection materials can be used:

1. iso-propyl alcohol
2. Amphoteric surfactant
3. Hydrogen peroxide
4. Mineral acids and alkalis
5. Peracetic acid
6. Formic acid
7. ozone
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 Labeling and
communication
10.1 general rules
should be clear and misleading to the consumer
10.2 for products under organic certification
must be labelled with the signature ‘COSMOS
ORGANIC’ in conjugation with the seal of the cosmos-
standard AISBL member organization
The product must not be called “organic” for
example, “organic shampoo” , unless it is at least 95%
organic, measured as a percentage of the total product
10.3 for products under natural certification
must be labelled with the signature ‘COSMOS
NATURAL’ in conjunction with the seal of the COSMOS-
standard AISBL member organization
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 10.4 for ingredients with organic content
10.5 supporting literature
10.6 organic in the name of company or product
range
10.7 use of signature, name or term related to this
standard

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 Inspection, certification and
control
11.1 inspection and certification
To be certified for cosmetics ingredients or cosmetics
products natural or organic certification according to
this standard, it is required to:
1. Have a subjected the manufacturing operation
and the ingredients or products to inspection and
certification by an authorized certification body;
this includes any subcontracted manufacturing
plant that used to process the ingredients or
products.
2. Hold a valid operational certificate from that body
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 contd

3. Undergo an on-site a annual inspection cycle

which may include possible unannounced
inspection and other additional inspection
4. Allow the certification body to take samples and
carry out analysis using laboratories conforming to
ISO/IEC 17025 for ingredients or ingredients or
contaminants either on a random basis or in case of
suspicion

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 11.2 Approval of ingredients
To be certified for cosmetics ingredients or cosmetic
products under natural or organic certification according to
this standard it is required to:
have subjected the manufacturing operational and the
ingredients or products to inspection and certification by an
authorized certification body; this includes any sub-
contracted manufacturing plant that are used to process
the ingredients or products hold a valid operational
certificate from that body.
undergo an on-site annual inspection cycle which may
include possible unannounced inspection and other
additional inspection, and
*allow the certification body to take samples and carry
out analysis using laboratories conforming to ISO/IEC 17025
for ingredients or contaminants either on a random basis or
in case of suspicion
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 11.3 certification bodies certifying to this standard must:

 To be (associate) member of the COSMOS-standard AISBL

 Be accredited to ISO/IEC guide 65 (for any scope)
 Be authorized according to the requirements set out in the
COSMOS-standard control manual
 Submit to annual authorization according to the COSMOS-
standard control manual including any investigation that
may be undertaken in case of complaints or suspicion, and
 Cooperate with other authorized certification bodies to
ensure common interpretation of this standard. Certification
bodies must use the COSMOS-standard, and the COSMOS
signature, names and terms only in according with the
requirement set out in this standard , the control manual and
the lablling guide, or otherwise only with the prior written
content of the COSMOS-standard AISBL12. implementation's
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 Guidelines with respect to preservatives

Cosmetics preservatives allowed by Ecocert and

COSMOS are considered more skin friendly than
some traditionally
Most are naturally occurring in botanicals and so
are considered by the certifying bodies to be
suitable for products marketed as natural

According to the latest Ecocert and COSMOS

standards the following preservatives are allowed in
cosmetics products certified as natural and organic:

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 preservatives Ecocert/COSMOS
compliant
Benzoic acid and its salts Yes

Benzyl alcohol Yes

Dehydro-acetic acid and its Yes

salt
Salicylic acid and its salts Yes

Sorbic acids and its salts Yes

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 Regulations for emollient

Commercial name/Non Emollient example

commercial name
1,3-butylene glycol Decyl glcoside

Acai oil Eutrepe oleracea fruit oil

Acide stearique tp18/55 Palmitic and stearic acid

Acitire Jojoba esters

Activonol-3 Propanediol

Akogel Hydrogenated vegetable oil

Adeps lanae type sp PHE ur lanolin

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 Guidelines for foaming agent

Commercial name Chemical name

PALMEROL 1299-lauryl alcohol- Lauryl alcohol

RSPO SCC mass balance(MB)

PALMEROL1299-lauryl alcohol Lauryl alcohol

PALMEROL 1498-myristeyl Lauryl alcohol

alcohol-RSPO SCC mass
balance (MB)
PALMORAL 1498* Lauryl alcohol

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 Regulation for emulsifying
agent
Commercial name Emulsifier

Akoline PGPR Cetearyl alcohol

ALBIWAX Prunus armeniaca

Cholesterol BP Cholesterol

Cosphaderm GMUD Glyceryl undecylenate

cremerGLYC refined glycerine Glycerine

99.75%
Axol c62 pellet Glyceryl stearate citrate

Dermofeel NC Glyceryl stearate citrate

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 References
1. ‘COSMOS-standard’, [internet], available at:
[Link]

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