Unit Three:

Basic Concepts of fashion Desi

gn
 Focus area of fashion design

Outline Fashion Categorization

Concepts of branding

sustainable fashion
 Focus areas of fashion design

 The Fashion Design Concentration focuses on taking apparel designs

from concept to completed garments.

 Emphasis is placed on fundamental areas of fashion design including

patternmaking, sewing, and draping.

 Fashion design mainly focuses on creating creative design, making

samples, making pattern using CAD and manual in the industry.

 …cont.

 Fashion design in industry mainly focus on pre-production process.

 Fashion designers create a new design and for developing this design

they give instruction by their team or juniors.

 They work in variety of industries like manufacturing, clothing

companies, design firms or boutiques.

Different Branches of Fashion Designer
 Costume designer (Men’s wear, women’s wear
and children’s wear)
 Shoe designer
 Accessories designer
 Underwear designer
 Embroidery designer
Four focus area of textile and design
 Fashion Categorization

Fashion can be categorized according to:

 Group in which it is accepted - i.e. High Fashion or Mass fashion.

 Duration for which it lasts – i.e. Classic or Fad.

 Custom made or in multiple size ranges – Haute Couture or Prêt-

a-porter.
 Group in which it is
High Fashion

 High Fashion refers toaccepted

those styles or designs accepted by a limited group of fashion

leaders like celebrities, socialites or fashion innovators who accept fashion change at a

very early stage.

 Such people have fan following and hence power to influence many more.

 The garments are presented in the fashion shows by fashion designers in the presence of

the media, which plays the role of giving coverage to the styles exhibited, thus

highlighting the fashion direction for the viewers or readers.

 High Fashion garments are introduced at a high price and manufactured

in limited numbers with more elaborate detailing and overall good

quality fineness in the product.

Mass Fashion

 Mass Fashion refers to those styles or designs that are accepted by higher number of

fashion-conscious consumers.

 Mass fashion garments are produced in huge quantities, moderately priced with

garment detailing that can be replicated in bulk quantities.

 A considerable number of apparel brands provide to this sector.

 Duration for which it lasts
Classic

 Some styles have the constant ability to never become completely obsolete, but instead to
remain timelessly popular.
 A classic is characterized by simplicitly of design and perfect quality, which prevents it
from being outdated.
Fad
 Fads are short-lived fashions that peak in popularity within a very short period due to an
unusually quick level of acceptance by a particular segment of the market.
 They lack the design strength to hold consumer attention for very long.
 Often fads are introduced in lower price ranges.
 Custom made or in multiple size
Haute couture
ranges is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted high-end
fashion design.

 The term haute couture is French, "haute" meaning "high" or "elegant,"

and "couture" translating to "sewing" or "dressmaking."

 Couture clothes are often custom-designed created for specific occasions

and are often the subject of discussions and reports along with the
celebrities who wear them.

 Since, a large segment of population cannot afford couture clothes; these

 Prêt-a-porter (ready to wear)

 Prêt-a-porter is another French term that denotes 'ready to wear', and refers to mass

produced fashion, where styles are produced in various sizes and colors.

 This facilitates the customer to purchase the garment off the shelf without

alteration/modifications.
 Fashion Dimensions
The term fashion has three important components: Style, Acceptance and
Time.
Time

 Time makes fashion cyclical, what is in fashion today may be out the next

year.

 This change keeps fashion business growing and exciting.

 Change may never have a consistent pace.

 It may be sometimes rapid and some other times gradual.

 Women’s apparel category has always shown most rapid changes

Acceptance
 Acceptance is the willingness of the consumer to buy the style and wear
it in order to get visibility.

 Acceptance does not need to be universal.

 A style may be accepted in one group while other segments may

ignore it.

For example, styles that are considered fashionable in a metropolitan city

may not be acceptable to people living in the villages.

 Likewise, a style that may be acceptable and fashionable in one part of

the world may be rejected in the other.
Style

 Style refers to a person’s particular way of expressing themselves whether

that’s through clothing, writing style, or a style of architecture.

 In the fashion world, “style” is usually shorthand for “personal style,” or

the way an individual expresses themselves through aesthetic choices

such as their clothing, accessories, hairstyle, and the way they put an
 Style is something that is unique to everyone.

 Style is the person’s own choice in clothes, accessories, and others.

 Style is not totally dependent on clothing; it can be related to anything that

makes the person look stylish.

 In another view, style is the extension of fashion which does not change like

fashion.
 Fashion Cycle
Fashion cycle refers to the rise, wide popularity and then decline in
acceptance of a style.
The various stages of fashion cycle are as follows:
Introduction of a Style:
 Where new style, color, texture, and so into view are introduced as ‘high
fashion’ to target customers.
 Designers interpret their research and creative ideas into apparel or
accessories and then offer the new styles to the public.
 Designers create new designs by changing elements such as line,
shape, color, fabric, and details and their relationship to one another.
 New creations referred to as the “latest fashions” may not yet be
accepted by anyone.
 At this first stage of the cycle, fashion implies only style and innovation.
 Most new styles are introduced at a high price level.

 Designers who are globally respected for their talent may be given

financial support and be allowed to design with very few limitations on

creativity, quality of raw materials, or amount of fine workmanship.

 Naturally, Production costs are high, and only a few people can afford the

resulting garments.

 Production in small quantities gives a designer more freedom, flexibility,

and room for creativity.

Rise/Increase in Popularity:

 Where copies or knock-offs enter market as duplicates.

 If a new style is purchased, worn, and seen by many people, it may

attract the attention of buyers, the media, and the community.

 In self-defense, most couture and high-Priced designers now have

secondary bridge or diffusion lines that sell at lower prices, so that they

can sell their designs in greater quantities.

 The popularity of a style may further increase through copying and

adaptation.

 Some designers or stylists may modify a popular style to suit the needs

and price range of their own customers.

 Some manufacturers may copy it with less expensive fabric and less

detail it order to all the style at lower prices.

Culmination/Peak of Popularity:

 Where the fashion is at its peak for sufficiently longer period.

 When a fashion is at the height of its popularity, it may be in such

demand that many manufacturers copy it or produce adaptations of it at

many price levels.

 Some designers are flattered by copying and others are resentful.

 There is very fine line between adaptations and knockoffs.

 Volume production requires a likelihood of mass acceptance.

 Therefore, volume manufacturers carefully study sales trends because

Decline in Popularity:

 Where boredom/ tedium sets in, and the sale is on a decline.

 Declines are faster.

 Eventually, so many copies are mass produced that fashion – conscious

people tire of the style and begin to look for something new.

 Consumers still wear garments in the style, but they are no longer willing

to buy them at regular prices.

 Retail stores put such declining styles on sale racks, hoping to make room

for new merchandise.

Rejection of a Style or Obsolescence:

 Where a strong dislike for style occurs, and sales is at its lowest level.

 In the last phase of the fashion cycle, some consumers have already

turned to new looks, thus beginning a new cycle.

 The rejection or discarding of a style just because it is out of fashion is

called consumer obsolescence.

 Concepts of Fashion Acceptance

 Fashion is first accepted by one society or group of people and goes on

to be followed by other groups.
 There are three concepts related to the adoption of fashion they follow:
Downward flow theory (trickle-down theory):

 Here, fashion is first accepted by people at the top of the society, who

form the higher income group, and later on adopted by people at the

lower-level group, who form the low-income group.

 ‘Haute couture’ are major fashion houses of the world, run by

internationally recognized famous designers.

 They show their collections–which are their own original creations–at

international fashion shows and sell their garments for excessive prices.
Horizontal flow theory:

 Here, fashion is adopted by people at similar social level or income levels.

 They are accepted by peers, friends and others who are of an equal

status.

 These are also called the ‘designer wear’ or ‘prêt-à-porter’ and are ready-

to-wear garments sold at exclusive department or specialty stores.

 Designs are not unique but are produced in limited numbers.

Upward flow theory (Trickle-up theory):

 Here, fashion is first accepted by the young low-income group, and

moves to higher income group (e.g. khaki pants, jackets, cowboy

dresses, etc.).

 ‘Mass market’ or ‘street fashion’, as it is called, are cheaper versions of

garments that are produced and sold to the people of lower income

group.
 Concepts of Fashion Branding
 Branding is about showing your customers who you are.

 It's about giving them reasons to trust your brand and not just about

getting them to place one order.

 Fashion branding is about convincing them to choose your brand even if

there are similar choices from other fashion retailers.

Depending on target segments or the positioning strategy, brands can be
classified into four categories:

Fashion Pyramid
Griffe brand: Griffe, or designer brand, is at the top of the pyramid.

The term griffe is derived from handwriting and refers to the pure creation

of an item by hand, created in atelier.

Thus, it is unique, irreproducible, and eternal.

Luxury brand: - which originates from either designer brands (e.g., Dior

and Chanel) or craftsmanship (e.g., Gucci and Louis Vuitton).

 Luxury brand has six features: excellent quality, high price, scarcity and

uniqueness, aesthetics and poly-sensuality, ancestral heritage and

personal history, and super superfluousness.

 The essential elements of luxury products are craft, uniqueness,

exclusivity, and artistic talent—though some crafts have been replaced

by machines.

 Luxury brand offer excellent quality, scarcity and uniqueness, and

Premium Brand: Also called new luxury or new luxe, premium brands have

elements from both luxury and mass-market brands.

Premium brands have refined their products and branding strategies,

proposing alternatives to luxury for a better value.

Premium brands have three sub-categories.

Super-premiums

Old luxury brand extensions

Masstige
Premium brands try to address and appeal to a larger audience than luxury

brands.

They are seeking to sell to anyone who is willing to pay for the quality and

upgrade from the value version of the product.

Their marketing usually addresses the price for value aspect, and try to

deliver this message to everyone interested in their product category.

 Super-premiums: priced at or near the top of their category such as
Emporio Armani, these brands target consumers who belong to classes
immediately below the traditional pure luxury customers.
 Old luxury brand extensions: lower-price versions of products created by
companies such as Valentino Prêt-à-Porter whose brands have
traditionally been affordable only by the rich.
 Masstige: priced well below super-premium or old luxury brand
extensions such as Victoria Secret.
 It is oftentimes premium in terms of price and quality among mass
products.
Example: Nike, Coach, DKNY, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Hugo Boss,
Mass-market brand: - Fashion brands that produce goods in larger
quantities for the mass.
 This brand Provide ready-to-wear garments to the mass.
 Mass-market brands generally take cheap quality materials of fabrics to
produce creative and affordable fashion which is easily accessible to the
mass.
 Mass-market Brands take simpler production techniques into
consideration to help with the cost of the production of garments.
Example: Zara, H&M, Mango, Fashion Nova…etc
 Branding has the goals of influence peoples associate with your brand
and how they feel about it, to create distinct identity to your
 Fashion Sustainability
 Sustainability is one of the challenges that the fashion industry faces in

the current era.

 Considering many aspects like use of modern technology, consumer

demand etc.

 new fashions are coming in the present time.

 Due to the creation of these fashions, maintaining the stability of the

previous fashion has also become a matter of many challenges.

 As a result, many fashions are being lost prematurely as they cannot

Reasons for sustainability challenges in fashion industry:
 There is no way to understand at the time of creation how long a
fashion will last.
 The durability of a fashion can be long or can be lost before any style
becomes fashionable.
 The sustainability of fashion in the modern world also depends on a
number of factors.
Some of are:

 The impact of technology on sustainability

 Impact of consumer demand on

sustainability

 The impact of the luxury industry on

sustainability

 Popularity in terms of sustainability

 Rising prices of raw materials

 The goal of sustainable fashion is to create flourishing ecosystems and communities

through its activity.

 The movement believes that clothing companies ought to place environmental, social, and

ethical improvements on management's agenda.

 Another goal is to educate people to practice environmentally friendly consumption by

promoting the "green consumer", which can allow for the company itself to gain more

support and a larger following

 Fast Fashion

Fast fashion consists of garments made at cheap quality, low price, mass
produced, machine made and are seen to end up in the landfills very
soon.
 Slow fashion

 Slow fashion is a concept that opposes fast fashion.

 The movement advocates for conscious production, distribution, as

well as mindful consumerism, as a response to the fashion industry

that is polluting and wasteful.

 Slow fashion is an aspect of sustainable fashion and a concept

describing the opposite to fast fashion, part of the "slow movement"

advocating for clothing and apparel manufacturing in respect to

 Difference between fast and slow fashion
Category Fast fashion Slow Fashion
Raw material Petroleum based materials Locally sourced, bio-degradable,
( Synthetic fiber) organic, natural dyes and natural
materials. It also includes
recycled, repurposed, upcycled
materials
Manufacturing Cause environmental implications It uses less harmful ingredients
during production and employs eco-friendly
traditional methods of production
Cost and quality Cheap and low quality Expensive and lasts long
labor Involves factory or workshop which Uses people from local or nearby
uses workers in low wages, poor area. Serves as a means of
working condition and long providing livelihood
working hours
Sustainability It is not possible to create eco- Made in small quantity with high
friendly product as it involves quality, with motto to live with
chemicals nature and not against it
Presence of Large amounts of carcinogens Organic materials and safe
toxins ecofriendly materials for
manufacturing
Thank you