Skincare

Dr Sana Bham
Skin
1. Cleanser/Face
wash

Face cleansers and face washes are both designed to clear skin of grime and
impurities but there are differences.
Face wash: It is designed in a foam residue or gel that does generally
include hyaluronic acid and ceramides, which retains moisture, as well as
smooth out the skin. Face washs in any form contains surfactants known as
sodium lauryl sulfate and ammonium lauryl sulfate. These are combined
with oils, fat and dirt that can be rinsed away, but the surfactants can strip
skin of essential moisture that disturbs the skin barrier function. As a result,
the skin would appear red, itchy, and dry.
• Hyaluronic Acid (HA): A substance that preserves moisture, also known
as a humectant. As we age, the production of key substances in the skin,
including hyaluronic acid (along with collagen and elastin) decreases. As
a result, our skin loses volume, hydration, and plumpness.
• Skin barrier function: The outer layer of the skin. This barrier is dead,
that has dead cells, lipids, proteins and fats, which help protect the skin
from the environment.
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Face cleansers: These are non-foaming products, which are applied to

skin and then rinsed or wiped off to dissolve sebum (oil), grime, dead
skin cells and impurities. These products hydrate the skin as well as
soothe and protect the skin. Cleansers are targeted for any type of skin,
whereas face washes are more effective with those who have oily skin.
Cleansers can be found in a great range that includes cream, oil and gel;
each has a different weight, texture and consistency, from thin and
watery to milky, oily, thick and creamy.

Skin concerns and what ingredients to look out for:

1. Green tea extract is a natural ingredient that has been found to
regulate oil production to calm acne breakouts.
2. Glycolic acid is gentle enough for dry and sensitive skin; it exfoliates
pore build-up, and boosts skin cell turnover and collagen production.
3.Salicylic acid is prized for its ability to slough off dead skin cells,
exfoliate blackheads, and eliminate excess oils.
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4. Ceramides are naturally occurring lipids in the skin that help to keep it hydrated and protected.
When the skin’s natural ceramide levels are depleted, it can lead to dryness and irritation. That’s
where ceramide-infused skincare products come in. Facial cleansers that contain ceramides can help
to strengthen the skin barrier and lock in moisture.
5. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that’s effective at brightening up dull skin. It works by
inhibiting the production of melanin, which can lead to dark spots and uneven skin tone. Vitamin C
is also effective at protecting the skin against environmental stressors, such as pollution and UV
rays.
6. Exfoliation is an important part of any skincare routine, as it helps to remove dead skin cells and
promote cell turnover. There are two main types of exfoliants: chemical and physical. Chemical
exfoliants, such as alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), work by dissolving
dead skin cells. Physical exfoliants, such as scrubs and brushes, work by physically sloughing off
dead skin cells. When using an exfoliating cleanser, it’s important to be gentle and not overdo it, as
this can lead to irritation and sensitivity.
 2. Toners/Essense
A toner gently refreshes your skin without
stripping it of moisture. It is typically a water-
based lotion or tonic that is used after
cleansing, as it can remove any dirt or grime
missed when cleansing and it is also carried out
gently.
It is said, toners can restore the skins pH
balance, as the cleanser strips away the oil from
the outer layer of the skin. It uses acids such as
alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, lactic
acid, salicylic acid and glycolic acid in
moisturizers.
3. Face Serums

If you are looking to target hyperpigmentation and

discoloration, look for formulas which can brighten
and lighten dark patches, including kojic acid and
A product used before a moisturizer. It is greatly glycolic acid. If your skin is dry, tight, and flaky, find
concentrated with oils and is often water based to a skin serum that contains vitamin E, niacinamide,
directly sink into the skin, which delivers a great and glycolic acid. Also look for ceramides, which
dose of ingredients to address the common skin are fatty molecules that help hold the skin
complaints. together and keep moisture from escaping. Other
good options are serums that contain hyaluronic
acid, or those with collagen peptides, epidermal
growth factors, or stem cells.
4. Face Moisturisers
Our skin is structured in layers, with the outermost layer known as the
stratum corneum. This layer is made up of dead skin cells called
corneocytes, along with lipids (fats) that sit between them. While the
corneocytes are often compared to bricks and the lipids to mortar—
forming a protective barrier—this layer actually resembles phyllo dough
more than a brick wall.
Though corneocytes are lifeless cells without nuclei, they still serve an
important role. They contain substances that help retain moisture, which
is key for keeping our skin smooth and soft. To maintain this supple
texture, the stratum corneum should have at least 10% water content,
though ideally, it should range from 20% to 30%. When the skin is
hydrated, the stratum corneum can absorb up to five to six times its
weight in water, expanding its volume by three times. But hydration
does more than just add moisture; it activates enzymes that regulate the
shedding of corneocytes, a process known as desquamation. Without
proper hydration, the skin struggles to shed these cells properly, leading
to flakes and cracks, making the stratum corneum appear disordered.
A common misconception about moisturizers is that they replace lost
oil, but in reality, dry skin is a result of insufficient water—not a lack of
oil. Even young children, whose sebaceous glands aren't active yet, can
have soft, smooth skin without oil.
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Most moisturizers are oil- Petrolatum and other oily Humectants, such as Emollients, like Vitamins in moisturizers Menthol, found in some
in-water emulsions, substances in moisturizers glycerin and honey, draw dimethicone, help skin feel serve various purposes. anti-itch moisturizers,
meaning they’re creams or are called occlusives, as moisture into the skin smooth, not necessaril y Retinol (vitamin A) boosts provides a cooling
lotions, with water often they prevent water from from the air or deeper moisturized. Some collagen production and sensation that alleviates
listed as the first evaporating. Petrolatum is layers. However, in dry alcohols, like fights wrinkles, but retinyl itching but doesn’t treat
ingredient. While some a top performer in conditions, they can octyldodecanol, also act as palmitate (a form in the underlying cause.
water evaporates, a portion retaining moisture, actually make skin drier, emollients. moisturizers) is less Lactic acid, found in
is absorbed by the skin. followed by lanolin and so they’re often paired potent. Vitamin C, known products like AmLactin,
However, water alone isn't silicones like dimethicone. with occlusives to seal in for its antioxidant effects, helps soften tough, dry
enough to keep skin Oil-free moisturizers often the moisture they attract. has limited benefits in skin, like on heels, and can
hydrated—it requires an use dimethicone instead of moisturizers due to make it more flexible.
oily substance to lock it in. oils like mineral or instability, while vitamin E
Applying oil without water vegetable oils. mainly acts as a
leads to greasy, still-dry preservative.
skin. Soaking skin in water
before applying something
like Vaseline is effective,
but moisturizers with
water are much more
Tips about good skin:
1.Turn down the thermostat. Hot air tends to be drier than cooler air.
2.Use a humidifier. Humidifiers can help. The problem is that moisture may be soaked
up in walls and furniture or disperse rapidly, depending on how airtight your home is.
3.Take warm, not hot, baths and showers. Hot water whisks away the fatty substances in
the skin that help it retain water. Some doctors recommend bath oils. You can also use
bath oil as a post-bath moisturizer by rubbing yourself down with a teaspoon of it
diluted in a couple cups of warm water.
4.Use a mild soap. Dove is a familiar brand. Cleansers like Cetaphil are an alternative to
soap.
5.Wear loose clothing. Clothing that binds and rubs can dry out skin.
6.Stay protected. Cold, windy air is very drying, so bundle up and wear warm mittens or
gloves to protect your hands.
 Sunscreens blocks sunlight which would possibly damage our skin,
sunscreen needs to be spreadable and not damage us. There is a
range of sunscreens that achieve different targets in several ways.

5.
Sunscreen
What happens if you don’t apply
sunscreen?
• Sunburnt: No sunscreen can leave your skin being vulnerable to UVB rays, which can
cause fiery-red sunburn and skin damage. It's not just a temporary inconvenience;
sunburn damages your skin and increases the risk of skin cancer.
• Premature Aging & Wrinkles: UV rays speed up the aging process, leading to
premature wrinkles and sagging skin. It's like pressing fast-forward on your skin's
natural aging clock.
• Skin Cancer: This one's serious: not wearing sunscreen can put you at risk of
developing skin cancer. In fact, having more than five sunburns doubles your risk of
skin cancer. UV radiation damages the DNA in your skin cells, leading to abnormal
growth and, in some cases, cancerous cells.
• Uneven Skin Tone & the Patchwork Effect: If you prefer a smooth and even
complexion, sunscreen is your best friend. UV rays can cause pigmentation issues,
leaving you with dark spots and a patchwork effect on skin.
Additional information
• Retinol, a form of vitamin A, is best used at night because it can increase your skin’s
sensitivity to sunlight. This happens because retinol speeds up cell turnover and
exfoliates the skin, making it more vulnerable to UV rays. If used during the day, this
can lead to a higher risk of sunburn, irritation, and long-term sun damage. Additionally,
retinol itself can break down when exposed to sunlight, reducing its effectiveness. For
these reasons, applying it at night allows your skin to benefit from its anti-aging and
skin-renewing properties without the risks associated with sun exposure.
• Retinol is well-known for its anti-aging properties. It works by stimulating collagen
production in the skin, that can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Retinol is also effective at reducing the appearance of dark spots and uneven skin tone.
However, it’s important to note that retinol can be irritating to some people’s skin, so
test out on a small patch and maybe begin with once a week, to allow the skin to become
customed to the product.