NANOCOSMETICS
CONTENTS
Introduction
Classification of nanoparticles
Nanoparticles used in cosmetics
Nanoparticles preparation methods
Nanocosmetics preparation
Research done in this area
Examples of nanocosmetics
Pros & cons of using nanomaterials in cosmetics
Conclusion
References
INTRODUCTION
COSMETICS :
Cosmetics are constituted mixtures of chemical compounds derived from
either natural sources, or synthetically created ones.
They are the substances that are intended or rubbed, sprinkled and sprayed or
applied on skin for beautifying,cleansing, promoting attractiveness or altering
appearance.
NANOCOSMETICS :
Fronza and collaborators in 2007 defined nanocosmetic as "a formulation
that carries active or other nanostructure ingredients, which has superior
properties regarding it’s performance if compared with conventional
products.
NANOCOSMETICS cont..
Nanocosmetics are skin formulations containing nanocarriers or
nanoparticles.
Nanocarriers are nanometric carriers having a substance entrapped
inside.
They have several advantages over conventional cosmetics
(ie,cosmetics without nanotechnology).
In the cosmetic industry, the nanoparticles are present in shampoos,
conditioners, toothpastes, anti-wrinkle creams, anti-cellulite creams,
whitening skin, moisturizing, face powders, aftershave lotions,
deodorants, soaps, sunscreens, make up, perfumes and nail polishes.
CLASSIFICATION OF NANOPARTICLES
Inorganic Nanoparticles Organic Nanoparticles
Includes Titanium Oxide Lipid Nanoparticles Polymeric Nanoparticles
Nanoparticles, Zinc
Oxide Nanoparticles
Includes Micelles, Niosomes, Includes
liposomes, Dendrimers, Nanocapsules,
Nanoemulsions, Cubosomes Nanospheres
NANOPARTICLES USED IN COSMETICS
A. NANOPARTICLES AS UV FILTERS
Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide particles have been widely used for many years
as UV filters in sunscreens.
Products using nanoparticles of ZnO or TiO2 are transparent so have increased
aesthetic appeal, are less smelly, less greasy and more absorbable by the skin.
Many sunscreens and moisturizers available now using these nanoparticles
including products from Boots, Avon, The Body Shop, L'Oreal, Nivea and
Unilever.
Example: UV Pearls, Cool Pears, etc.
B. NANOLIPOSOMES
Liposome's are concentric bilayered vesicles in which the aqueous volume
is entirely enclosed by a lipid bilayer composed of natural or synthetic
phospholipids which are GRAS (generally regarded as safe) products.
Useful for cosmetic delivery applications.
Used for delivering vitamins A and E and antioxidants into the skin.
The first liposomal cosmetic product to appear on the market was the anti-
ageing cream "Capture' launched by Dior in 1986.
C. NIOSOMES
Niosomes are non-ionic surfactant based
vesicles that have a similar structure to
that of phospholipid vesicles like
liposomes.
They can be used to encapsulate aqueous
solutes and act as drug and cosmetic
carriers.
The first product 'Niosome was
introduced in 1987 by L'Oreal company.
D. NANOEMULSIONS
Nanoemulsion contains oil, water and an emulsifier.
Nanoemulsions are commonly used in certain cosmetic products, such as
conditioners or lotions to be applied to the skin and hair.
NES support the skin penetration of active ingredients and thus increase their
concentration in the skin.
NE may reduce the trans-epidermal water loss.
L'Oreal own several patents on nanoemulsion based technologies.
Example: Kemira Nanogel.
E. CUBOSOMES F. NANOCRYSTALS
Cubosomes are nanostructured These are aggregates consisting of
particles of bicontinuous cubic several hundred to thousands of atoms
liquid crystalline phase. that combine into a cluster.
They have high heat stability Nanocrystals have been used in the
and are capable of carrying cosmetic industry for the delivery of
hydrophilic and hydrophobic poorly soluble actives.
molecules. They allow safe and effective passage
through skin.
G. DENDRIMERS H. NANOSILVER
Dendrimers are synthetically produced
polymeric nanostructures with a tree- A silver nanoparticle consists of many
like, highly-branched architecture. silver atoms or ions clustered together to
Dendrimers have been incorporated into form a particle 1-100nm in size.
cosmetic film-forming agents. They are Silver nanoparticles are increasingly
utilized for controlled release, to extend being used in a number of products.
shelf life and enhance solubilization. Because of their antifungal and
L’Oreal, Unilever, and The Dow antibacterial properties, silver
Chemical Company possess patents for nanoparticles are often used as
dendrimers in hair care, skin care, and preservatives or to kill bacteria in
nail care products. products.
I. NANOGOLD
Nano gold is another name for gold nanoparticles and it’s size ranges from 13–99 nm.
The major characteristics of nanogold that endorse it’s use in cosmetic products are
the inertness, very low toxicity, biocompatibility, and highly stable nature of these
particles.
Gold nanoparticles have also shown excellent antibacterial and antifungal properties.
There are many different cosmeceutical products in the global market which contain
gold nanoparticles, including anti-aging creams, face masks, toners, mists,
toothpaste, etc.
J. BUCKYBALLS
Buckyballs, also called fullerenes (C60), were one of the first nanoparticles
discovered. Buckyballs are composed of carbon atoms linked to three other carbon
atoms by covalent bonds.
Fullerene offers many skincare benefits. Because it is an antioxidant, it helps protect
the skin against free radicals which are one of the key causes of aging. It essentially
soaks up these pesky free radicals like a sponge so they don’t damage your skin.
In addition, it helps prevent breakouts and acne by balancing the oil production of
your skin. It also tightens your pores, improves skin texture, reduces redness, and
brightens the skin by suppressing the production of melanin.
NANOPARTICLES PREPARATION METHODS
Nanoparticles are nanometric particles entrapping the desired substance in its structure.
As this substance is enclosed in the nanoparticles, a performance improved could be
achieved. There are several methodologies applied to nanoparticles and the Table below
shows some of the methods applied to the following nanocarriers: nanoemulsions, solid
lipid nanoparticles, nanostructured lipid carriers, nanocapsules, and nanospheres.
NANOPARTICLE METHOD
Nanoemulsions Ultrasonic emulsification-solvent evaporation, Ultrasonication,
Emulsification/evaporation
Lipid nanoparticles High pressure homogenization, High shear homogenization/high pressure
homogenization, Melt emulsification coupled with high shear homogenization,
Double emulsion, Hot melt microemulsion, Microemulsion coupled with probe
sonication, Ultrasonication
Polymeric Ionic crosslinking, Interfacial deposition of pre-formed polymer, Polymerization of
nanoparticles monomers, Emulsification/solvent evaporation, Two-step desolvation
NANOCOSMETICS PREPARATION
Nanoparticles are added in an appropriate semi-solid form since
nanoparticles are usually aqueous liquid forms that have low viscosity. It is
also possible to thicken the nanoparticles solution. Cosmetics forms
employed in nanocosmetics (Table below) include mainly creams,
hydrogels or gel-creams.
COSMETIC FORM MAIN COMPONENT
cream Stearic acid/triethanolamine, Sodium
polyacrylate/dimethicone/cyclopentasiloxane, Glyceryl monostearate,
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate
hydrogel Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, Carbomer, Chitosan
gel-cream Cetearyl alcohol/dicetyl phosphate/Ceteth-10 phosphate, Acrylates/C10-
30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
RESEARCH DONE IN THIS AREA
NANOEMULSION (lotion, shampoo, nail enamel, conditioners, hair serum)
LIPOSOME (anti-aging cream)
NIOSOME (foundation)
NANOCAPSULE (primer)
SOLID LIPID NANOPARTICLES (body cream, perfume, anti-aging cream)
NANOCRYSTAL (anti-wrinkle cream)
DENDRIMERS (nail lacquer)
NANOGOLD & NANOSILVER (deodorant, face pack, anti-aging cream)
CUBOSOMES (antiperspirants)
FULLERENS (anti-acne products)
EXAMPLES OF NANOCOSMETICS
L'Oreal has managed to deliver active
ingredients into the deeper layers of skin with the
use of polymer nanocapsules. An anti-wrinkle
cream Plentitude Revitalift. which used
nanoparticles, was released in 1998.
Freeze 24/7, a new skincare line against wrinkles
is planning to use nanotechnology in future
products.
Colorescience sells a powder named
Sunforgettable, which contains titanium dioxide
nanoparticles.
In 2003 Paris-based Caudalie released it’s
sunscreen Vinosun Anti-Aging Suncare, an anti-
aging treatment, which applies"nanomized" UV
filters and antioxidants.
EXAMPLES…..cont..
Pureology have been working with
nanoemulsions since 2000, when
the founder of the company started
developing a product line for color
treated hair.
In 2005 Procter &Gamble's Olay
brand was developed with
nanoemulsion technology.
Some other companies using
nanotechnology in their skin
products: Neutrogena, from
Johnson & Johnson: Mary Kay and
Clinique from Lauder; Avon; and
the Estee Lauder brand.
PROS & CONS OF USING NANOMATERIALS IN COSMETICS
PROS :
They act on the top of the skin.
They are used in tiny measures.
They improve the texture of cosmetic products.
They enhance the rate of absorption.
They enhance the solubility of products.
They increase the surface area of products.
They infuse enhanced shelf life in the cosmetics.
CONS :
The presence of high reactivity of nanomaterials because of the high surface to volume ratio gives
rise to toxicity.
Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles are able to absorb UV radiations and produce free
radicals which affect the skin. This may lead to cell damage and skin cancer.
The nanoparticles are able to deliver actives present in cosmetics into the deeper layers of [Link]
chemicals may cause irritation.
When the nanoparticles are absorbed through the skin, pulmonary tract, brain, and other organs (via
blood) damage can result. Some of the nanoparticles affect the brain and raise some perilous effects.
FUTURE PERSPECTIVES
The cosmetic industry makes wide usages of nanomaterials for various purposes such as
UV filters, [Link] characteristic properties of nanomaterials can impose some
undesired effects on the consumers. In this regard, the standard safety measures should
be designed and the necessary experiments of nanomaterials should be carried out.
The cosmetics which are in the form of sprays or aerosols should be taken more care of as
these particles may enter through inhalation.
The newly developed cosmetics should be tested for safety, efficiency, stability and
aesthetics
Due to the presence of significant properties of nanomaterials, the nanotechnology field
has been growing to a greater extent as a large number of publications on this field can
provide the evidence.
However, research on nanoparticle toxicity needs to be considered. The risks associated
with the use of nanomaterials need to be defined in different aspects.
Strict implementations of different safety regulations are needed. Toxicity studies, the
effect on human health and the environment of various nanomaterials used in the
industry should be studied thoroughly.
CONCLUSION
Nanotechnology is considered to be the most promising and revolutionizing field.
Over the last dozen of years, nanotechnology is widely being used and is beneficial
in the field of dermatology, cosmetics, and biomedical applications as well.
New technologies and novel delivery systems have been invented by scientists,
which are currently being used in the manufacture of nanocosmetics.
Novel nanocarriers which are currently being used are liposomes, niosomes, NLC,
SLNs, gold nanoparticles, nanoemulsion, and dendrimers in various cosmetics.
These novel delivery systems have remarkable potential in achieving various aspects
like controlled and targeted drug delivery, site specificity, better stability,
biocompatibility, prolonged action, and higher drug-loading capacity.
Nanotechnology has proved, beyond doubt, its beneficial effects especially in
sunscreen products, skin care creams, lipsticks, toothpastes, hair cosmetics, shaving
preparations, shampoos, anti aging formulations in the past decade.
REFERENCES
Julia Scherer Santos. Nanocosmetics: Production, Characterization, and
Performance Improvement;[Link]: 10.5772/intechopen.93600
Cornier J, Keck CM. Nanocosmetics. London: Springer Nature; 2019. p.
262. DOI: 10.1007/978-3-030-16573-4
Shokri Javed. Nanocosmetics: benefits and risks. Iran. Bioimpacts. 2017;
7(4): 207–208. DOI: 10.15171/bi.2017.24
Mihranyan A, Ferraz N, Stromme M. Current status and future prospects
of nanotechnology in cosmetics. Progress in Materials Science.
2012;57:875-910. DOI: 10.1016/[Link].2011.10
Farris PK, editor. Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Practice. Chichester, UK:
Wiley; 2013. p. 295. DOI: 10.1002/9781118384824
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