Filament Yarn Texturing
• Texturing processes are essentially concerned with introducing
bulkiness into continuous Filament (CF) yarns. This means CF
yarns generally are the starting material for the texturing
processes.
• The texture can be visualized as being either of two forms;
a waveform crispiness along the lengths of the filaments.
a profusion of loops along them.
• The idea of texturizing CF yarns is to modify the physical
properties of the filaments so that the CF yarns can be more
opaque, have good bulk and stretch at low tension, thereby
imbuing similar fabric characteristics as staple yarns such as
increased thickness and cover, softness and warmth, stretch,
suitable water vapour permeability and moisture transport (i.e.
breathability).
Reason for Texturing
1. An increase in the bulk of yarn
2. Better cover when used in fabric
3. Greater comfort
4. Improved surface characteristics
5. Softness of handle
6. Opacity
7. Thermal insulation improved
8. Moisture absorption improved
Types of Textured Yarn
1. Stretch Yarn are characterized by having very high
extension and good recovery but posses only
moderate bulk. Stretch yarns, used extensively in
stretch to fit garments, are produced mainly by
false twist.
2. Modified Stretch Yarn may be defined as those
with characteristics intermediate between stretch
and bulk yarns. They are produced by modifying
the stretch characteristics, usually by a further heat
treatment, after which they retain some stretch but
have increased bulk.
Types of Textured Yarn
3. Bulk Yarns having high bulk and moderate
stretch and are used where bulk and fullness of
handle are of great importance than
extensibility.
Texturing Process
• In the texturing processes, a CF yarn has to undergo
a major change in its physical form, by becoming
crimped, coiled or looped along its lengths.
• The deformation is then usually set into the
filaments by heating and cooling.
• In most cases thermoplastic fibers are required to
accomplish the process efficiently.
• Only multifilament CF yarns are suitable for
texturing.
Texturing Methods
• There are various methods that may be used to
produce textured CF yarns. the ones most
commonly referred to are;
1. False Twist
2. Stuffer Box
3. Crinkle Yarns (Knit de Knit, Gear Crimping)
4. Air jet texturing
5. Bi-component Process
6. Knife Edge Crimping (Obsolete now)
False Twist Texturing Method
• In this method the CF yarns are twisted and heated
simultaneously, and then untwisted when cold, thereby
loosely retaining the heat-set helical shape of the Twist.
Texturing Principle
• There are three basic operations involved in False twist
texturing.
1. Twist
2. Heat Set and cool
3. Untwist
Texturing Principle
Types of False Twist Method
1. Intermittent Process
Originally false twist process was an intermittent
process performed in three steps.
1. Inserting a very high twist into a CF yarn
2. Setting this twist by heat treatment and then
3. Completely untwisting the yarn
Because of the stable state of yarn in its fully twisted
heat-set condition, The untwisted yarn behaves like
an assembly of springs; When the tension is
reduced, each filament tend to buckle causing the
yarn to bulk up into a mass of tangled filaments.
Types of False Twist Method
2. Continuous Process
In a continuous false twist process a yarn pass through
a twisting mechanism which impart temporary twist to
the yarn travelling towards it and remove it as it pass
beyond.
This happen because with reference to the twisting
device, the twist is equal and in opposite direction on
outgoing side to than that of incoming side of supplied
filament yarn, thus reducing the twist level to zero.
Continuous False Twist Process
a. False twist insertion in stationary yarn
b. False twist insertion in moving yarn
False Twist Texturing
Salient Features of False Twist Method
In modern devices,
• False Twist rate up to 6million rev min-1
• Yarn speed exceeding 1200 m min-1
• Yarn produced by false twist texturing method is called a
stretch yarn.
• It contract at low tension and stretch under high tension.
• It also has high torque.
• Mostly textured yarn produced are Polyester and Nylon
yarn in the range of 22-220 dtex.
Draw Texturing
• A few years ago, for texturing process a fully
drawn continuous filament yarn was used as
starting product.
• Since texturing machine used the pair of feed
rollers for transporting yarn in and out of the
texturing zone and for stretching to control
the tension, the seperate drawing stage was
combined with the texturing, draw-texturing.
Types of Draw Texturing
• There are two types of draw texturing.
1. Sequential Draw Texturing
In sequential draw texturing, a separate draw
zone is added at the front of the texturing zone.
As these two process are independent of each
others, a fully drawn yarn is fed into the
texturing zone.
Types of Draw Texturing
2. Simultaneous Draw
Texturing
In simultaneous draw
texturing method, the
undrawn yarn is fed directly
to the texturing zone where
by slowing down the input
speed rollers, the yarn is
simultaneously drawn,
twisted and heat set.
Draw Texturing
• Post Texturing Process
– Many items of apparel, especially outerwear
require the bulk and warmth provided by the false
twisted yarns but not the excessive stretch and
residual torque.
– Before using in woven or knitted structure, the
textured yarn can be stabilized usually by a second
heat treatment, which has the effect of reducing
their stretch, Suppressing their residual torque and
giving increased bulk.
Draw Texturing
Method of Post Texturing Process
– Originally the stabilization was a
discontinuous process, the textured
yarn being overfed to a loose
package and then heat set.
– The process is now continuous and is
achieved by adding a second heater
in the process line after the twisting
unit and allowing the yarn to be
overfed into the heater.
Stuffer Box Texturing
• In this method the filaments pass through a
heated box, but are fed into it faster than their
removal rate – i.e. an overfeed.
• This forces them to adopt a random wavy
crimped pattern while heated; subsequent
cooling sets their textured form.
Stuffer Box Texturing
Mechanism
• Yarn is propelled by a pair of feed rollers into a
tube where it is restrained at the exit. By
compressing the yarn into the stuffer box, the
individual filaments are caused to bend or fold
into a zig-zag configuration. By simultaneous
heat setting during this compression state, the
deformation is set into the yarn.
Stuffer Box Texturing
This method gives the yarn a high bulk, soft handle and less
stretch than false twist yarn.
Crinkle Type Textured Yarns
• Methods
• Two different methods can be used to produce
crinkle type textured yarns.
1. Knit de Knit method
2. Gear Crimping
Knit de Knit
• In this method a flat yarn is knitted, the fabric is
then heat set, the fabric is then unraveled. (de
knit).
Knit Heat set de knit
• The crimp frequency and shape can be varied by
changing the needle gauge and fabric structure.
• Yarn produced are torque free and don’t require
post setting.
• The fabric produced by such yarns has pronounced
sparkle, boucle type texture, good stretch and
recovery and good handle.
Knit de Knit
Gear Crimping
• If a filament is passed
through a closely meshed
gears, bulk can be
generated in the
structure. The gear head
is heated so that the
crinkle produced in the
yarn is permanent.
Air Jet Texturing
• The bulk in a continuous filament yarn can be
produced by blowing a stream of air into a
yarn while it is being delivered at a higher rate
than it is being taken up.
• The air stream cause turbulence, which allow
the formation of random loops in the overfed
yarn.
• The yarn produced has an appearance more
akin to staple yarns.
Air Jet Texturing
• As compared to the false twist yarn
1. Both are produced from continuous filaments.
2. The air jet textured yarn have completely different
appearance and
3. Don’t possess the elasticity of false twist yarns.
4. Have aesthetic properties similar to staple fibre
yarns.
5. The presence of protruding filament loops gives the
yarn the handle, bulk and appearance of a spun
yarns product.
Air jet Texturing
Air Jet Texturing
• Materials Used.
– Polyester, polyamide, polypropylene, viscose,
acetate and combination of them.
– The process can also be used to produce blended
yarn.
– The yarns generally used are partially oriented
(POY) or occasionally low oriented (LOY), which
are predrawn prior to the texturing jet.
Air Jet Texturing
• After being pre-drawn the yarn reaches the
texturing box and the yarn may be wetted(this
increase the effectiveness of air entangling by
50-100%).
• The yarn is then fed to the air jet, at a higher
speed than it is taken off.
• An air stream transport the yarn filament
through the jet at high speed.
Air Jet Texturing
• After leaving the jet, the filaments are fed out of
the air stream at an angle.
• Individual filaments of the yarn are separated and
vibrate forcefully, resulting in filaments of varying
lengths.
• They form loops which interlace and co-mingle.
• The production speed of air jet texturing is limited
by yarn stability and texturing uniformity.
• Feeder yarns between 100-400 dtex are textured
at speeds 400-600 m min-1.
Air Jet Texturing
• The yarns leave the texturing zone slightly damp;
it then pass through the heat stabilizing zone to
consolidate the loop structures.
Specific Feature
One feature of air jet texturing process is the
possibility of mixing several filaments in one jet.
This offer the possibility of unlimited variations, e.g.
mixtures of different basic materials, colour mixes,
structural effects (varying length of overfeed).
Air Jet Texturing
Applications
The looped structure gives fabric produced from
such yarns a soft a pleasant handle with an
appearance similar to spun products but with a
high bulk.
Air textured yarns made from the fine polyester
or polyamide filaments are used in the
sports/leisure wear field to produce fashion
fabrics with good handle and appearance.
Air Jet Texturing
Major Applications
1. Outerwear
2. Sportswear
3. Furnishing fabrics
4. Curtaining
5. Wall covering
6. Car seat fabric/interiors
7. Blankets
8. Luggage, etc.
