What is Cosmetics?
Science of Mixing!
-We need to mix all the materials without any chemical reactions in general, and expect the
individual characteristic from each, and sometimes their synergistic effect as the better case.
Kinds of Cosmetics
Components of Cosmetics
Classification of Cosmetics
About Emulsion
Check points of Cosmetics
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<Kinds of Cosmetics>
Skin care Cleansing, Toner, Protector
Make up Base make-up, Point make-up
(Decorative)
Body care In-bath, UV protection, Deodorant, Depilatory,
(Including Insect evader
Sun care)
Hair care Cleansing, Treatment, Toner, Permanent, Coloring,
Re-growth
Oral care Tooth paste, Mouth wash
Fragrance Perfume, Eau de toile
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<Components of Cosmetics>
Water-soluble Oil-soluble
Hydrocarbon, Triglyceride, Wax,
Ester oil, Fatty acid, Fatty alcohol
Silicone, Polyol, Polymer, Thickener
Surfactant (Emulsifier)
Colorant, Perfume
Preservative, UV-absorber,
Anti-oxidant, Chelating agent
Water (+ EtOH)
Others (Additive, Powder…)
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<Classification of Cosmetics>
Lotion
Gel
O/W
Milk
W/O
Emulsion
Cream
Others Microemulsion
+ Gas Spray, Mousse Multiemusion ---
Oil
+ Wax
Powder
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Mechanism of Aerosol
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<About Emulsion>
Stability check ;
How to formulate Emulsion; Odor, Color, Appearance
pH, Viscosity
Stability Safety
Instant test – Heat, Centrifuge…
Key point would be Surfactant!
Difference Speciality / Functionals
Obstruction to Emulsion;
Sun light (UV- light) UV- absorber
Heat very close to ageing
Microbe Preservative
Metal ion Chelating agent
|
Others --- oxidation, vibration, etc.
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<About Emulsion>
Surfactant ; HLB Solubility in Water
HLB 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
insoluble
crude dispersion
milky dispersion with hard stirring
stable milky dispersion
almost transparent
soluble
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<About Emulsion>
Phase inversion – Technique to make Stable emulsion (O/W)
and to reduce Surfactants
Water phase
Actually
Oil phase
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<About Emulsion>
Ionic property of the materials
Surfactant Polymer
Anionic
Setting effect, Holding effect
Wash ability, Foaming effect
Cationic
Compatibility with Skin and Hair,
Anti-static / Anti-bacteria effect
Conditioning effect (Better comb-ability, Anti-static effect)
Nonionic
Compatibility with any ionics,
Less irritation Better compatibility
(Amphoteric)
Cationic at acidic side
Anionic at alkali side
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<Check points of Cosmetics>
(summary)
Stability
Safety
Skin (Hair) feel - Texture [light/heavy, fresh/moisturizing…]
Handling - Package suitability…
Favorite - Fragrance, Color, Package design…
Effectiveness
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<Check points of Cosmetics>
(details)
Stability – Appearance, Odor, Color
Any ingredient should be kept at the recovery rate, >90% under RT after 3 years.
[becoming World standard] Substitute way (e.g., under 40C after 6 months)
should be up to each customer.
Safety
Kinds/Amounts of the preservatives and the fragrances will influence (so often)
not only the stability of the final formula, but also the safety of it.
Preservatives should be decided after considering the cleanliness of each raw
material, manufacturing facilities, packages and their consumers.
Effectiveness
Any effectiveness (e.g., SPF, Whitening effect, Anti-aging effect) should be
confirmed by each customer, according to PL concept [World standard].
Same chemicals can not always perform the same!
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