Cosmeticology and

cosmetic
preparations
1) DEFINITION:- The term cosmetics have been derived from the
term “COSMETIKOS” which means the skill to decorate. Thus cosmetics
is the art of decorating yourself to look beautiful.

According to D & C Act:- Cosmetics mean any articles meant to be

rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on or introduced into or
otherwise applied to any part of the human body for cleansing,
beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering appearance and
include any article intended for use as a component of cosmetic. Soap is
not covered under cosmetic product.
CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS
3) INGREDIENTS OF COSMETICS:-
1. Water
2. Oils, Fats, Waxes
3. Humectants
4. Surfactants
5. Preservatives
6. Perfumes And Colors
7. Herbal Or Plant Material
8. Functional Raw Materials
1. WATER:-
 It is the main ingredient of cosmetics formulation.
 Thus stability and quality of final product is dependent on the purity of
water used so pure water should be used in manufacturing of cosmetics.
 Pure water on large scale can be manufactured by any of the methods
mentioned below.
 Ion exchange system
 Distillation
 Reverse osmosis
2. OIL, FATS and WAXES:-
These are used in preparation of creams, lotions, brilliantine, hair oil,
lipsticks etc.
The source of oil, fat & wax can be mineral source & animal source. The
source and example is given below. Source:-
1) Mineral source -mineral oil -paraffin and petroleum jelly
2) Animal source -wool fat -bees wax, Spermaceti
Name of oil (Vegetable) Use in cosmetics
Almond Creams (emollient)
Arachis Hair oil, Brilliantines
Castor Lip stick, hair oil cream ,lotion
Olive Bath oils ,creams, lotions
Type of mineral oil Use in cosmetics product
Light liquid paraffin In bath oil, hair
oil,lotions,creams,brilliantine
Heavy liquid paraffin In bath oil, hair
oil,lotions,creams,brilliantine
(emollient)
waxes:-
The commonly used waxes in preparation of cosmetics Include bees wax,
spermaceti,ceresin,ozokerite wax
3. HUMECTANTS:- This is added to prevent drying out of cosmetics (e.g. o/w creams)

Type of Humectant Examples

1.Inorganic Calcium chloride (not used now due to
compatibility problems)
2.Metal organic Sodium lactate (used in sunscreen
lotions)
3.Organic Polyethylene glycol, Propylene glycol,
glycerol, sorbitol, mannitol, glucose
4. SURFACTANTS: Surfactants lower one or more boundary tensions at interface in the system.
one common feature of surfactant is that they all are amphiphillic molecules containing a
hydrophobic part & a hydrophilic part. Used in cosmetics to impart following functions:. .
DETERGENCY, WETTING, FOAMING, EMULSIFICATION, SOLUBILIZATION
Surfactants on basis of their ionic behavior can be divided into following 4 types:-

Type of surfactant Examples

1.Anionic Fatty acid soaps, alkyl sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, polyethylene

glycol ester,alkyl ether sulphates taurines,sarcosinates etc.
2.Cationic Alkyl trimethyl ammonium salts, Dialkyl dimethyl ammonium salts
alkyl pyridinium salts, quaternised diamine salts.
3. Non ionic Alkanolamides,alkyl polyglycol ether, thioethers, alkyl
polyethyleneimine amides.
4.Ampholytic Betains, alkylimidazolines, acyl peptides,etc.
5. PRESERVATIVES:-
Used to prevent spoilage which occurs due to
1) Oxidation of oils
2) 2) Microbial growth
• Unused cosmetics are usually contaminated wit PSEUDOMONAS but used cosmetics are
contaminated with STAPHYLOCOCCI,FUNGI,YEAST
• Types of preservatives :-
1) Anti microbial agents:- e.g. .Benzoic acid, formaldehyde, cresol, phenol,
thiomersol,phenyl mercuric salts. Etc.
2)Antioxidants:-Gallic acid, methyl gallate, BHA, BHT, Tocopherol, citric acid,
Ethanolamine, lecithin, ascorbic acid, sodium sulphite, Sodium metabisulphite
3) Antioxidant synergists: - Enhance the efficacy of antioxidants. examples include:-ascorbic
acid, citric acid, phosphoric acid
4) UV absorbers:-These are mainly used in products which are vulnerable to visible or UV
light. By incorporating UV absorbers colorless containers can be used if deterioration is due to
UV light only.
6. PERFUMES:-
The word perfume has been derived from “per” means through and “fumum”
means smoke. It suggests that early perfumes were pleasant smells obtained by
burning wood and grass etc.
Source of perfume Example
Natural (Animal source) Musk ,civet, Ambergris, Castroreum etc.
Natural (Plant source) . Rose ,jasmine, lemon, lavender etc

Aroma chemical Eugenol, Farnesal, Citral ,Limonene

Floral base Rose base, Jasmine base
Woody base Citrus base, oriental base, fruity base ,etc
7. COLORS:-
Colors can be classified into three classes:-
a) Natural colors:-
 Plant source :- e.g. Saffron, turmeric
 Animal source:-e.g. Cochineal (red)
b) Inorganic colors:-
e.g. Iron oxides, chromium oxides, carbon black, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide
etc.
c) Coal tar colors:-
Tartrazine, amaranth, Erythrosine, Indigocarmine. etc.
8.HERBAL OR PLANT MATERIAL:-
These herbal or plant materials are used in different cosmetics preparations.

NAME USE IN COSMETICS

Almond Facial and body scrubs
Azadiracta Tooth paste and skin care
Comfrey Creams and lotions
Tulsi Skin cream and lotions
Cucumber Masks, toner, cleanser
Henna Dyeing of hair
Amla Shampoo
Jasmine Hair oil
Lemon Skin tonic, cleansers
Apricot Facial and body scrubs
9. FUNCTIONAL RAW MATERIALS:-
These agents contribute towards some functional property .

TYPE EXAMPLE & USE

VITAMINS Vit C (antioxidant),vit A, Vit E (skin
beautification)

AMINO ACIDS (all essential amino acids)

ANTI INFLAMMATORY AGENTS Allantoin (hand cream & lotion) Cade
oil(eczema& psoriasis),Calamine

SUNSCREEN AGENTS PABA, Vitamin C, Quinine salts,

Coumarin derivatives

ANTIDANDRUFF Selenium, cadmium sulphide, ZPTO

(4) FORMULATION
 COSMETICS FOR SKIN
Function:-
1) To provide decoration
2) To supplement natural functions of skin
Type of cosmetics used for skin:-
1. Skin cream
2. Lotion
3. Face powder & Compacts
4. Skin colorants
5. Body powder
6. Face pack & Masks
7. Bath Preparations (bath salt,oil,powder,foam)
8. Astringents &Skin tonics (antiperspirants, astringent lotion, preshave & after shave
lotion, colognes)
CREAMS: -
These are the semisolid preparation which is either a o/w or w/o type emulsion.
TYPES OF CREAMS:
A. Cleansing cream
B. Massage creams
C. Night creams
D. Moisturizing creams
E. Foundation creams
F. Vanishing creams
G. All purpose creams
A) CLEANSING CREAM:-
• Cleansing cream is required for removal of facial make up, surface grime, oil, water and
oil soluble soil efficiently mainly from the face & throat surface.

Characteristic of a good cleansing cream:-

1) Be able to effectively remove oil soluble & water soluble soil, surface oil from skin.
2) Should be stable &have good appearance.
3) Should melt or soften on application to the skin
4) Should spread easily without too much of drag.
5) Its physical action on skin & pore openings should be that of flushing rather than
absorption
Type of cleansing cream:-
I.) Anhydrous type:- It contains mixture of hydrocarbon, oils and waxes. It also contains
cetyl alcohol, spermaceti, cocoa butter, fatty acid esters etc.
Mineral oil- 80 gm,
Petroleum jelly– 15gm
Ozokerite wax - 5 gm
Preservative and perfumes – q.s
 Formation of crusty surface is avoided by adding Ozokerite & petrolatum.
 Opaque character obtained by adding Zno, mg.stearate, Tio2

Emulsified type:- They can be either o/w or w/o type.

Common Ingredients:-
Oil phase…………………..Spread easily
Waxes……………………..Give appropriate thixotropy
Emollient material…………likes cetyl alcohol, spermaceti, lanolin
Water phase with preservative
Different types:-
(1) Cold Cream:- Cooling effect is produced due to slow evaporation of the water contained in the formulation.
These are w/o type.
 Beeswax Borax type:-
 These contain high percentage of mineral oil. These are o/w type. This cream contains high amount of
mineral oil for cleansing action.
 Basically these are o/w type emulsion. After the cream is being rubbed into the skin sufficient quantity of
water evaporates to impart a phase inversion to the w/o type.
 The solvent action of the oil as external phase imparts cleansing property.
 In this type of cream borax reacts with free fatty acids present in the bees wax and produces soft soap which
acts as the emulsifying agent and emulsifies the oil phase .
 A typical formulation:-
Bees wax -2 gm Borax-2 gm
Almond oil -50 gm Rose water 35.5 gm
Lanolin– 0.5gm preservative and perfume –q.s
C) VANISHING CREAM:-
• These are named so as they seem to vanish when applied to the skin.
• High quantity of stearic acid as oil phase used.
• This provides an oil phase which melts above body temp, and crystsllises in a suitable form, so as to
invisible in use and give a non greasy film.
• Main component is emollient stearic acid.
• Part of stearic acid is saponified with an alkali & rest of stearic acid is emulsified this soap in large
quantity of water.
• The quality of cream depends on the amount of acid saponified & nature of alkali used.
• NaoH makes harder cream than koH.
• Borax makes cream very white but product has tendency to grain.
• Pearliness can be attained using liq.paraffin, cocoa butter, starch, castor oil, almond oil.
• Ammonia solution has a tendency to discolor creams made with it after some time.
• Cetyl alcohol improves texture and stability at low temperature.
Uses

For Vanishing cream For Cold cream

•Used as adhesive for makeup •Typically used to cleanse the face

powders. makeup
•Reduces loss of moisture from dry •Heavily moisturises dry skin.
skin.
•Can also be used as a balm for dry
•Smoothens the skin and keeps it cracked lips.
soft.
•It can also be used as a shaving
•Prevents skin from roughening and cream alternative for men.
chapping.
 A typical formulation  NaOH 0.18 gm
 Stearic acid 15gm  preservative &perfume q.s
 Glycerin 5gm  Cetyl alcohol 0.50 gm
 KOH 0.5 gm  Propylene glycol 3.0gm
 Water 75.82 gm
 Cold cream is an emulsion of water and certain fats, usually including beeswax and various
scent agents, designed to smoothen the skin and remove makeup.

 The emulsion is of a "water in oil" type unlike the "oil in water" type emulsion of vanishing
cream, so-called because it seems to disappear when applied on skin.

 The name "cold cream" derives from the cooling feeling that the cream leaves on the skin.

 Vanishing cream is an oil-in-water emulsion containing potassium, ammonium, or sodium

stearate with water and holding in emulsified form more or less free stearic acid;

 it also contains a hygroscopic ingredient such as glycerol, and a small amount of a fatty
ingredient;

 it leaves a protective, invisible film of stearic acid on the skin.

FOUNDATION CREAM:-
• Applied to skin to provide a smooth emollient base or foundation for the application of face
powder & other make up preparations. They help the powder to adhere to skin. They are
almost o/w type.
Types:
1) Pigmented
2) Unpigmented
A typical formulation
• Lanolin 2 gm Propylene glycol 8gm
• Cetyl alcohol 0.50 gm water 79.10 gm
• Stearic acid 10gm Perfume &preservative q.s
• KoH 0.40 gm
NIGHT & MASSAGE CREAM:- These are generally applied on the skin and left for
several hours say overnight and assist in the repair of skin which has been damaged by
exposure to various elements or exposure to detergent solution or soap. The mostly have a
moisturizing & a nourishing effect of affected skin. These also contain vitamins and
hormones basing on the application. This cream give better look to the skin and prevent
dryness.
A typical formulation
Mineral oil-38gm Borax 1gm
Petroleum jelly-8gm Water 35gm
White bees wax-15gm Perfume & preservative q.s
Paraffin wax – 1.0gm Lanolin 2gm
HAND & BODY CREAM:-
• The repeated or constant contact with soap and detergent damages & removes film of sebum
thus this cream is used to impart following functions to the skin.
- Reduce water loss.
- Provide oily film to protect the skin.
- Keep the skin soft, smooth but not greasy.
- A typical formulation
- a.) OILY PHASE
- Isopropyl myristate - 4 gm Mineral oil -- 2 gm
- Stearic acid – 3.gm Emulsifying wax - .275 gm Lanolin - 2.5 gm
- b.) WATER PHASE
- Glycerin -3.0 gm Triethanolamine – 1 gm
- Water -84.225 gm Perfume and Preservative -q.s
ALL PURPOSE CREAMS:-
All purpose means it is suitable for hands, face and body. They are w/o types.
Formula:-
Oil phase
Mineral oil 18% Lanolin 2%
Petroleum jelly 2% Ozokerite 7 %
Paraffin wax 3%
Water phase
Water 61.3% Glycerol 5%
Magnesium sulphate 0.2% Perfume, preservative q.s
  Water to make 100%
2) LOTIONS:-
 Preservative & Perfumes –q.s
(I) Cleansing lotion
 A typical formulation
 Note: -
 Mineral oil 38%,
 Triethanolamine Stearate discolors on
 Bees wax 2%,
standing so it should be made in situ using
 Triethanolamine stearate 8%,
calculated amount of stearic acid and
Triethanolamine. O/W lotion have
tendency to increase in viscosity with
ageing (this is prevented by using
ethoxylated cholesterol)
3. POWDERS:-
These are categorized as face powder, body powder, and Compacts.
The powders should have following properties:-
• Must have good covering power so can hide skin blemishes.
• Should adhere perfectly to the skin & not blow off easily.
• Must have absorbent property.
• Must have sufficient slip to enable the powder to spread on the skin by the puff .
• The finish given to the skin must be preferably of a matt or peach like character.
 RAW MATERIAL FOR EXAMPLE
POWDER IMPARTING
Covering prop Titanium dioxide,zno,kaolin,zn stearate
Adhesion prop Mg.stearate,talc,mg & ca salt of myristic acid
Slip & Softness Zn/mg undecanate,aluminium hydrosilicate
Absorbency prop Starch, colloidal kaolin,bentonite,pptd chalk
Peach like finish Rice starch,silica,powdered silk
Frosted look Guanine, bismuth oxychloride,mica,Zn,Al
Color & perfumes Iron oxides
FACE POWDER:- Types of Face Powders:-
A. Loose face powder
B. Compact face powder
C. Talcum powder
D. Baby powder
A) LOOSE FACE POWDER :- The essential feature of a good face powder includes
Covering power, slip, Adhesiveness, Absorbency, Bloom, Coloring, Perfuming.
B) Type:-

b) Light type
c) Medium type
d) Heavy type
B) COMPACT FACE POWDER:- It is a dry powder which has been compressed into a
cake. The pressure for compaction is very important. The powder must come off easily when
rubbed with puff.
(C) TALCUM POWDER:-
• It is used as an adsorbent for making the skin free from the excess moisture. Light
magnesium carbonate added to mix perfume.
Formula:-
Zinc oxide …………………50 Zinc stearate ……………………… 50
Chlorhexidine diacetate ………3 Light magnesium carbonate.100
Talc ……………….797 Perfume……………………….0.2

D) BODY POWDER:-
• It consists of mainly talc, with small portion of a metallic stearate, precipitated chalk,
magnesium carbonate(light).
• Talcum/body powders containing antiseptic substances are also used for prickly heat, and
fungus infections. Boric acid act as antiseptic.
A typical formulation
Talc - 75 gm Aluminum stearate – 4 gm
Colloidal Kaolin –10 gm Boric acid – 0.3 gm
Colloidal silica--- 5 gm Perfume --- 0.7 gm
Magnesium Carbonate- 5 gm
3. SKIN COLORANTS:- It includes a) Lipsticks b) Rouge
a) LIPSTICK:-These are basically dispersions of coloring matter in a base consisting of a
suitable blend of oils, fats, and waxes suitably perfumed and flavored molded in the form of a
stick.
Ideal character of lipstick includes:-
 Should cover the lips adequately with some gloss and last for long time.
 It should make the lips soft.
 The film must adhere firmly to the lips without being brittle.& tachy.
 Should have high retention of color intensity without any change in shade.
 Should be completely free from grittiness & free from drying.
 Nonirritating to the lips.
Classification of raw materials:-
1) Wax mixtures (bees, candeilla, carnauba, ceresin, Ozokerite wax)
2) Oil mixtures (castor, paraffin, isopropyl myristate)
3) Bromo mixture
4) Colors
5) Preservatives
Types of lipsticks
1) Transparent lipstick
2) Liquid lipstick
3) Lip rouge
4) Lip jelly
5) Lip glosses
b) SKIN ROUGE: -
• These are the cosmetics preparations used to apply a color to the cheeks.
• The color may vary from the palest of pinks to the deep blue reds .
• The tint or color may be achieved using water insoluble colors such as iron oxides and
certain organic pigments or by using water soluble organic colors which actually stain
the skin.
Types :-
 Powder rouges
 Wax based rouges (Stick rouge)
 Emulsion cream rouges
 Liquid rouges
 COSMETICS FOR HAIR:-
Includes following type of preparations:-
1. Shampoo
2. Hair tonics & Conditioners
3. Hair colorants and hair color remover
4. Hair grooming preparations
5. Depilatory & Epilatory
6. Shaving soaps & creams
7. Hair wave sets
 1. SHAMPOO
Ideal characters of a shampoo:-
 Should effectively and completely remove the dust, excessive sebum.
 Should effectively wash hair.
 Should produce a good amount of foam
 The shampoo should be easily removed by rinsing with water.
 Should leave the hair dry ,soft, lustrous with good, manageability.
 Should impart a pleasant fragrance to the hair,.
 Should not make the hand rough and chapped.
 Should not have any side effects or cause irritation to skin or eye.
Composition of shampoo:-

1) Principal surfactant (anionic type)

• Non ionic surfactant has sufficient cleansing property but have low foaming power.

• Cationic are toxic. So anionic are preferred.

2) Secondary surfactant (anionic or ampholytic detergent)

• They modify detergent and surfactant properties of principal surfactant.

3) Antidandruff agents (selenium, cadmium sulfide, ZPTO)

4) Conditioning agent (lanolin, oil, herbal extract, egg, amino acids)

5) Pearlescent agents (substituted 4 methyl coumarins)

6) Sequestrants (EDTA) Added because Ca, Mg salts are present in hard water.

• Ca, Mg Soaps cause dullness of hair by deposition of Ca, Mg soaps on hair shaft.

• This problem is solved by EDTA.

7) Thickening agents (alginates, PVA, MC)

8) Colors, perfumes and preservatives

Types of shampoo:-

1) Liquid cream shampoo

2) Solid cream and gel shampoo

3) Powder shampoo

4) Antidandruff shampoo

5) Aerosol foam shampoo

Aerosol Shampoo:-
SLS………………………………………….30%
Triethanolamine lauryl stearate…………..5%
Polyethylene glycol stearate………………3%
Perfume……………………………………..0.3%
Water…………………………………………100
90 parts of above packed with 2 parts of propellant 12 and 8 parts of propellant 14.
 Evaluation of Shampoos

Performance characteristics
• Foam and foam stability
• Detergency and cleaning action
• Effect of water hardness
• Surface Tension and wetting
• Surfactant content and analysis

Rinsing
Conditioning action
Softness
Luster
Lubricity
Irritation and toxicity
Dandruff control
 Microbiological assay

Eye irritancy test

Product characteristics

 Fragnance

 Colour

 Consistency

 Package
 2) CONDITIONERS:-
 These are the preparations used after shampooing to render the hair more lustrous, easy to

comb, and free from static electricity when dry.

 Conditioners are usually based on cationic detergents and fatty materials like lanolin, or

mineral oil.
 Benefits
Benefits
•Reduce the forces
associated with
brushing of the hair
•Provides color
retention benefits for
color-treated hair
•The reduction or
prevention of flyaway specially by cationic
hair conditioners
•Increasing the ease of
brushing
•Repair of damaged
hair
•Strengthening of hair

•Repair of split ends

• Increase in hair shine

•Feel softer
 COMMERCIAL CONDITIONERS
COMMERCIAL CONDITIONERS
Forms:
Forms:
•thick Vaseline pomades
•creams
•gels
• mousses
•lotions
• spray mists.
 Classes: :
Classes
regular rinseoff conditioners
intensive treatment conditioners
leave-in products
 regular rinse-off conditioners
normally applied after shampoo
followed by a rinsing step
This is the most common form of
conditioner sold.
 Intensive treatment conditioners
 Not for daily application.
 They are used for intensive treatment
 contain a higher level of active ingredients that
are kept on the hair for a longer period of time
 sold as thicker creams to provide the perception
of higher conditioning.
 Leave-in products
lighter and can potentially provide more significant
benefits than rinse-off products
 everything applied stays on the hair until the next
shampoo.
come in various forms, such as leave-in lotions, and
sprays.
They are marketed either for single application or
multiple applications during the day.
KEY
KEYINGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTSOF
OFHAIR
HAIRCONDITIONERS
CONDITIONERS

 Cationic Surfactants
 Lipophilic Conditioners
 Polymers
 Silicones
 Auxiliary Ingredients
 Auxiliary Ingredients
Preservatives
Thickeners
Humectants Others
Others
Emulsifiers Fragrances
Dyes
pearlizers
herbal extracts
vitamins
 Cationic Surfactants
the most widely used agents in commercial
products

Benefits
Benefits Examples
Examples
Effectiveness stearalkonium chloride
Versatility Cetrimonium chloride
Availability dicetyldimonium chloride
low cost
 Lipophilic Conditioners
•long-chain fatty conditioners

 cetyl alcohols
 stearyl alcohols
 glycol distearate
 triglycerides
 fatty esters
 waxes of triglycerides
 liquid paraffin
 Polymers
(Cationic Polymers)

improved wet combing

reduced static charge

Examples:
Polyquaternium - 6
Polyquaternium-7
Polyquaternium-10
Polyquaternium-11
Polyquaternium-16
 Silicones
silicone quats,

Conditioning effect
Amodimethicone
dimethicone,
Dimethicone copolyol
dimethiconol,

soluble insoluble
may not be as
must therefore be
effective in rinse-off emulsified
products
SHAVING PREPARATIONS: -
These are preparations used to carryout shaving.
Types:-
a) Ued before shaving
b) Used after shaving
Preparations before shaving includes
1) Lather shaving creams
2) Brushless shaving cream
3) Shaving soaps (solid, cream)
4) Aerosol preparation
5) Aftershave lotion
1) BRUSHLESS SHAVING CREAM – Here Lathering with shaving brush is avoided.
2) LATHER SHAVING CREAM:- Lathering with shaving brush is reaquired.
AFTER SHAVE PREPARATION:-
Main purpose of shave preparation is to confer a pleasant feeling of comfort and well being after shaving.
This is achieved by giving slight coolness, anaesthesia or emolliency to skin. At the same time it should be
aseptic also.
Formula:-( Antiseptic after shave lotion)
Hyamine……………………………..0.25%
Alcohol……………………………….40%
Menthol………………………………0.005%
Benzocaine………………………….0.025%
Water…………………………………59.72%
Perfume………………………………q.s
COSMETICS FOR NAILS:-
Includes
1. Nail polishes
2. Nail lacquers & removers
3. Nail bleaches & Stain removers
4. Cuticle remover & softener
1 ) NAIL POLISHES:-
A distinction between nail polishes and lacquer is that in nail polish exert the abrasive action. Due to friction
it draw the blood to numerous capillaries of nail bed and increasing blood supply, and exert stimulating effect
to growth of nail. Examples are stannic oxide, talc, precipitated chalk. Silica exert abrasive action.
Formula:-
Stannic oxide………………………90% Powdered silica…………………….8%
Butyl stearate………………………2% Pigment & Perfume…………….. ..q.s
2) NAIL LACQUERS :-
• These are the preparations that cover the nail with a water and air impermeable layer which
normally remains for days.

• A good Nail lacquer should fulfill the following characters:-

1) Must be innocuous to the nail & the skin
2) Must be easy and convenient to apply
3) Product should be stable on storage
4) The product should produce a good &satisfactory film.
COMPOSITION:-
1) Film former:-Nitro cellulose, Cellulose nitrate (mostly used), Cellulose acetate, cellulose acetobutyrate,
Ethyl Cellulose.
2) Resins :- Give film more body, gloss, depth, adhesion
Natural - Gum damar, Benzoic acid, Gum copal, Shellac
Synthetic - Sulphonamide –Formaldehyde Resins
3) Solvents:-Mix of solvent is preferred, Mixing middle b.p solvents like alcohols, acetates,and aromatic
solvents rate of evaporation can be retarded.
4) Plasticizers :- Dibutyl phthalate, Castor oil ,n-butyl stearate, castor oil
5) pearlescent material :-Guanine crystals, mica flakes, Ti02, coated with bismuth oxychloride.
6) colors and perfumes
b) LACQUER REMOVERS:- These are also called as nail cleansers which is applied to
remove nail lacquers.
 COSMECEUTICALS
 Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with biologically active ingredients purporting to have
medical or drug‐like benefits.
 A cosmeceutical is an ingredient with medicinal properties that manifests beneficial topical actions
and provides protection against degenerative skin conditions.
 The word "Cosmeceuticals" was popularized by Albert M. Kligman in the late 1970s. It
encompasses cosmetic actives with therapeutic, disease fighting, or healing properties, serving as
a bridge between personal care products and pharmaceuticals. Like cosmetics, cosmeceuticals are
topically applied, but they contain ingredients that influence the biological function of the skin.
 Cosmeceuticals improve appearance by delivering nutrients necessary for healthy skin.
 Cosmeceuticals typically claim to improve skin tone, texture, and radiance, while reducing
wrinkling. Cosmeceuticals are the fastest‐growing segment of the natural personal care industry.
 The most important botanicals pertaining to dermatologic uses such as cosmeceuticals
include TEAS, SOY, POMEGRANATE, DATE, GRAPE SEED, PYCNOGENOL,
HORSE CHESTNUT, GERMAN CHAMOMILE, CURCUMIN, COMFREY,
ALLANTOIN, AND ALOE; ONLY GREEN AND BLACK TEA, SOY,
POMEGRANATE, AND DATE have been studied to the extent that clinical trials for
the treatment of parameters of extrinsic aging have been published.
 Potential cosmeceutical agents in this category include GREEN TEA, GRAPE SEED
EXTRACT, VITAMIN E, AND BETA‐CAROTENE.
Commonly used substances included in cosmeceutical formulations are described as follows.
1. Moisturizing Agents
 Stratum corneum is the primary barrier of the skin.
 This barrier is rich in cholesterol, free fatty acids, and ceramides. Many oily preparations
have been used to maintain the fluidity of the skin (Mineral oil, Lanolin, cyclomethicone,
etc.).
 Water from the stratum corneum gets evaporated very quickly leading to dehydration. This
can be averted by using moisturizers which provide flexibility to the skin.
 Humectants are cardinal ingredients of the moisturizing formulations. Humectants also
help in preventing drying out of the formulations.
 When moisturizers are applied to the skin, a thin film of humectant is formed which retains
moisture and imparts better appearance to the skin.
 Fluocinolide containing ceramides formulation has been found to reduce eczema. Besides
these, black cohosh, soy extract, and vitamins A and E also help in augmenting the skin's
natural moisture balance.
 Complex mixture of hyaluronic acid and a revival complex containing green tea leaf
extract, and glutathione are also promising moisturising agents.
2. SUNSCREEN AGENTS
• Ultraviolet light which is responsible for sunburn and suntan and increases the risk of basal cell carcinoma
and malignant melanoma. Ultraviolet light is artificially divided into three ranges:
• UVA is radiation in the 320-400 nm range
• UVB is radiation in the 290-320 nm range
• UVC is radiation in the 100-290 nm range
• UVC is totally blocked by the ozone layer in the upper atmosphere of the Earth. The ozone layer blocks
some of the UVB and all of the UVA passes through the ozone layer. Generally, UVB has been blamed for
sunburn, but some studies indicate that UVA may also cause skin damage.
• Mild sunburn is a first-degree radiation burn which produces redening of the skin with accompanying pain.
Generally, as the skin heals, redness may persist and the outer layers of the epidermis will peel within a week
with accompanying itching.
• Prolonged exposure can result in a second-degree burn which is characterized by blistering of the skin and
more severe pain. Third degree sunburn is rare.
 Sunscreens are cosmetic formulations that block UV rays. Sunscreens are assigned sun protection fators, or
SPF, ratings that are supposed to indicate the level of protection from UV radiation.
 Use of sunscreen agents and limiting the exposure to sun prevents early wrinkling and skin cancer.
Sunscreen agents are used to prevent sunburns.
 There are two kinds of sunscreen agents: CHEMICAL AND PHYSICAL.
 Chemical sunscreen agents protect the skin from the sun by absorbing the ultraviolet (UV) and visible sun
rays,
 while physical sunscreen agents reflect, scatter, absorb, or block the rays. Sunscreen agents often may
comprise more than one ingredient.
 Some active ingredients in sunscreens are:

 Benzyl salicylate and salicylate derivitaves. One of the first sunscreen agents. It provides UVB
protection, but not UVA. It is not soluble in water and can be used in waterproof formulations. It is often

used in combination with other ingredients. One of the derivative compounds is known as homosalate.
 Benzyl cinnamate and cinnamate derivatives. Another early sunscreen agent. It is an effective
UVB blocker, but is not waterproof. Often found in combination with other ingredients.

 PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), This compound was extensively used in many formulations,
however, it was not water soluble and needed to be used in alcohol-based solutions, it would discolor
fabrics, and many individuals experienced or developed allergic reactions to it. Most sunscreen lotions are
now PABA free.

 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and related compounds. Also known as Parsol 1789 and Parsol A
is an effective UVA blocker. Oxybenzone is a related compound.

 Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are two inorganic compounds that are insoluble in most liquids.
These block the UV radiation because their preparations are opaque to light.
 Sunscreen lotions containing these are normally white opaque ointments on the skin. Each of the active
ingredients provides an SPF factor related to its concentration in the sunscreen.
 Increasing the concentration of the ingredient should also increase the SPF rating of the sunscreen.
3. HYDROXY ACIDS
 Hydroxy acids are organic carboxylic acids classified into alphahydroxy acids (AHA),
beta‐hydroxy acids (BHA), polyhydroxy acids, and bionic acids on the basis of their
molecular structure.
 Hydroxy acids are found in most of the marketed cosmetic preparation but are used in
very low concentration. AHAs range from simple aliphatic compounds to complex
molecules. Derived product can be either from natural or non‐natural origin, product
derived from natural origin are known as fruit acid.
 Hydroxy acids are found to be present in antiaging formulations, moisturizers, and peels,
and in treatment products to improve hyperpigmentation and acne. The skin appears to be
smoother and more uniform.
4. VITAMINS
 Exposure to the UV radiations accelerates the aging effect of the skin.
 The topical treatment of acne vulgaris with vitamin A, is very well supported by evidence.
Vitamin B3, commonly known as nicotinamide or niacinamide, is available in cosmetic and
cosmeceutical products and can be used as a complementary agent for some types of acne, as
well as aging skin.
 Vitamin A
 Topical retinoids have successfully been used to treat acne.
 Tretinoin cream in the appropriated concentrations of 0.025%, 0.05%, and 0.1%, as well as
0.1% isotretinoin and 0.1% tazarotene, frequently produce moderate to severe skin irritation.
 Retinaldehyde (0.05%) is another useful topical agent for the treatment of photoaged skin.
The useful concentration of topical retinol ranges from 0.3% to 1%.
VITAMIN E
 The physiological function of vitamin E, if applied dermally is to contribute to the
antioxidant defense of the skin, because of its tendency to absorb UV light in the solar
spectrum region that is responsible for most of the harmful biologic effects of the sun.

 Vitamin E blocks lipid peroxidation in cells & tissues & it is a good antioxidant.

 It helps to enhance the performance of UV filters, softens skin & moisturizes within.

 Vitamin E as alphatocopherol or tocopherol acetate is used in topical OTC (over ‐the

counter) products in concentration (1% ‐ 5%).

 Topical application of vitamin E may increase stratum corneum hydration and enhance
waterbinding capacity.

 Alpha‐tocopherol also shows synergistic effect with vitamins A (retinol) and C (ascorbic
acid) in combined products, providing an appreciable photo protection and antioxidant
action that suggests a potential effect in the protection against photo aging and skin cancer
VITAMIN B3 (NIACINAMIDE OR NICOTINAMIDE)
 Nicotinamide is a part of the coenzymes nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD),
NAD phosphate (NADP), and its reduced forms are NADH and NADPH.
 These molecules are important in many cellular metabolic enzyme reactions.
 The reduced forms mainly act as antioxidants.
 Nicotinamide is one of the newly discovered vitamin‐based components of
cosmeceutical products.
 It is found to possess anti-inflammatory and anti acne actions.
 The anti‐inflammatory effect of 4% nicotinamide gel in the treatment of acne
vulgaris was comparable as the benefits of 1% clindamycin gel
VITAMIN C
 Vitamin C has become a popular topically applied cosmeceutical because topical
application of L-ascorbic acid is the only way to further increase skin concentration.
 Free radical scavengers have grabbed the attention of researchers on vitamin C.
 L‐ascorbic acid is the active form of vitamin‐C, which was first used as cosmeceutical
creams. Previous formulations ( L‐ascorbic acid) were very unstable due to the oxidation
of the vitamin exposed to air.
 Esterified derivatives of L‐ascorbic acid in topical formulations have been used to
improve stability such as ascorbyl‐ 6‐palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
 Skin‐lightening effect has been observed by the demonstration of Magnesium ascorbyl
phosphate.
5. SKIN LIGHTENING AGENTS
Hyperpigmentation is the changing of colour intensity of the skin to darker hue, which is due
to an increased amount of melanin in the epidermis, the dermis, or both.
 RETINOIDS,
 MEQUINOL,
 AZELAIC ACID,
 ARBUTIN,
 KOJIC ACID,
 ALEOSIN,
 LICORICE EXTRACT,
 ASCORBIC ACID,
 SOY PROTEINS,
 N ‐ACETYL GLUCOSAMINE.5.
6. CHEMICAL PEELING AGENTS

 Glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane used as a peeling agent.

 Other chemical peels include 50% trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels and
 20‐30% salicylic acid peels used for various pigmentary disorders
 BABY CARE PRODUCTS
 The skin of the infant and the adult differs both histological and physiologically in many
respects
 It is less hairy , thinner and less cornified in infants
 There is tendency towards peeling and flaking of skin during first 3 weeks after birth
 Sebaceous glands are present in the newborn and start functioning early
 Being comparatively thin , skin of infant is expected to be more permeable to topical
agents applied.
 They are mainly concerned with keeping the baby clear and comfortable
 BABY OIL
 Though there is some evidence that oils and greasy materials can occluding the skin
surface, predispose infants to prickly heat, but surprisingly baby oil remains a popular
product
 In the formulations of baby oil, bland vegetable oils like ground nut oil, lanolin
derivatives and some higher alcohols can be used.
 The most popular brands of baby oils contain mineral oil of high purity without perfume
or a trace of perfume with solubilizer
 Formulae 1, 2 , 3 are examples of products containing mineral oil only, vegetable oil
and mixture of mineral oil and vegetable oil.
FORMULA 1
mineral oil 100.00

FORMULA 2
Groundnut oil 100.00
Anti oxidant q.s.

FORMULA 3
Mineral oil 60.00
Groundnut oil 40.00
Anti oxidant q.s.
 BABY CREAM AND LOTIONS
Traditionally baby creams and lotions can be prepared by using triethanolamine stearate , an
anionic emulsifier. Formula 4 are examples of this type of products

FORMULA 4

Mineral oil 25.0

Lanolin 1.5
Stearic acid 1.0
Triethanolamine 0.5
Stearyl alcohol 0.5
Cetyl alcohol 0.5
Sodium alginate 0.3
Water to make 100.0
Preservatives q.s.
Non‐ionic emulsifiers based on sorbitol can also be used in baby cream and lotions
Formula 5 are examples of this type of products

FORMULA 5
Mineral oil 35.0
Lanolin 1.5
Cetyl alcohol 1.0
Sorbitan oleate 2.0
Polysorbate80 5.0
Di‐methecone 5.0
Water to make 100.0
Preservatives q.s.
Polyoxyethylene sorbitan lanolin derivatives are fairly mild these have been used in baby
products
•Formula 6 illustrates use of polyoxyethylene sorbitan lanolin derivatives

FORMULA 6
Mineral oil 20.0
Stearic acid 10.0
Bees wax 3.0
Lanolin 1.0
PEG‐20 sorbitan lanolate 5.0
PEG‐40 sorbitan lanolate 1.0
Sorbitol 10.0
Water to make 100.0
Emulsifier based on sucrose esters of palmitate and stearic acids are mild and non ‐toxic
•These are available under the trade name “crodestas”
•Crodestas are admixtures of di‐and tri‐esters of sucrose
•Formula 7 illustrates a baby lotion and formula 8 illustrates a baby cream

FORMULA 7
Mineral oil 24.8
Crodesta F 70 3.0
Crodesta F 160 0.5
Hydroxy ethyl cellulose 0.2
Water to make 100.0
Preservatives q.s.
FORMULA 8
Mineral oil 32.0
Cetearyl alcohol 0.5
Petroleum jelly 5.0
Lanolin alcohol 1.0
Crodesta formula 110 3.0
Glycerin 2.5
Water to make 100.0
Preservatives q.s.
 BABY POWDER
• These powders are intended to make the infant feel more comfortable and to help

prevent skin rashes that arise from or aggravated by excess moisture

• Main ingredients are stearates, colloidal starch and talc.

• These powders are usually only lightly perfumed and not perfumed at all

• These powders are free from boric acid

 BABY SOAP
 Baby soap shall possess good cleaning and lathering properties, is normally a mixture of
alkali salts of long‐chain fatty acids.
 Triglycerides for example tallow, palm oil and coconut oil, provide the basic ‘fats’ from
which the fatty acid mixture used for soap are derived
 The finished soap properties are primarily dependent on the mixture and ratio of
triglycerides used.
 Tallow gives a much harder soap than coconut oil.
 Potassium soap are much softer than their sodium based counterparts , although, in practice,
they are rarely used.
 The finished soap bar can be modified by the addition of other ingredients. Such as
emollients opacifiers and chelating agent
 DENTIFRICE
A preparation for cleansing and polishing the teeth; it may contain a therapeutic agent, such
as fluoride, to inhibit dental caries.

Requirements of a toothpaste/dentifrice
The major requirements of oral preparations, especially toothpastes, have been summarized
on many occasions in the past. For a toothpaste, these requirements were:

1. When used properly, with an efficient toothbrush, it should clean the teeth adequately,
that is, remove food debris, plaque and stains.
2. It should leave the mouth with a fresh, clean sensation.
3. Its cost should be such as to encourage regular and frequent use by all.

4. It should be harmless, pleasant and convenient to use.

5. It should be capable of being packed economically and should be stable in storage during

its commercial shelf-life.

6. It should conform to accepted standards in terms of its abrasivity to enamel and dentine.

7. Claims should be substantiated by properly conducted clinical trials.

 TYPE OF DENTIFRICES

(A) Pastes form – Tooth paste

(B) Powder form – Tooth powder

(C) Solid blocks

(D) liquids
INGREDIENTS OF DENTIFRICES

1. Cleaning and polishing agents (abrasives).

2. Surfactant (cleaning and foaming).

3. Humectants.

4. Binding (gelling) agents.

5. Sweetener.

6. Flavouring agents.

7. Minor ingredients (colours, whitening agents, preservatives).

Cleaning and polishing agents (abrasives)
(a) Dental grade silicas
(b) Dicalcium phosphate dihydrate (DCPD)
(c) Calcium carbonate
(d) Sodium bicarbonate
(e) Hydrated alumina

2. Surfactants
(a) Sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)

3. Humectants
(a) Glycerin,
(b) Sorbitol
(c) Propylene Glycol And Polyethylene Glycol.
(d) Xylitol
4. GELLING AGENTS
(a) Sodium Carboxymethyl Cellulose CMC.
(b) Carrageenan.
(c) Xanthan
(d) Hydroxy ethyl cellulose HEC
5. SWEETENING AGENTS
(a) Sodium saccharin.
6. FLAVOURS
The flavour is a blend of many suitable oils, with peppermint and spearmint being the major
base components. These are nearly always fortified with other components such as thymol,
anethole, menthol (to give a pleasant cooling effect), eugenol (clove oil), cinnamon,
eucalyptol, aniseed, and wintergreen (to give a medicinal effect).
7. Minor ingredients
(a) Titanium Dioxide TiO2
Titanium dioxide may be added to give additional whiteness and brilliance to the paste.
(b) Colours.
Colours can be an integral part of the aspect of any toothpaste that may influence
consumer preference and purchase intent.
(c) pH regulators.
Occasionally buffering systems need to be added to the dental cream to adjust the pH of the
final finished product.
 (A)TOOTH PASTES
Tooth pastes are most popular valuable and widely used preparations for cleansing the teeth.
It has largest share of dental cleansing and care preparations.
Tooth pastes are preferred over other dental preparations because of following reasons.
• Easy to take and spread on the tooth brush
• No spillage or wastage
• Attractive consistency
• Proper distribution in mouth
• Available in wide varieties
A good tooth paste should have following characteristics

 It must clean the dental surface properly without any scratches.

 Consistency should be such that it can be easily squeezed out of the tube to spread on the

brush, but should not penetrate in to the brush.

 The consistency should remain constant in wide range of temperature during shelf life.

 It should be non toxic and should not sensitize buccal membrane.

 It should not interact with the container material.

 It should have pleasant taste and odour.

 It should have good appearance.

(A) TOOTH POWDERS

Tooth powders are oldest and simplest preparations.

Over the years their market share has been reduced due to popularity of pastes, but steel they

have a considerable market share.

The main problems encountered with powders are-

Floating of powder in air during manufacturing.

Formation of cake on storage

Uneven distribution in mouth

Composition Tooth powders contain the following ingredients-
 Abrasives
 Surfactants or detergents
 Sweetening agents
 Flavours
 Colours

Abrasives are used in manufacturing of tooth powders are similar to that of tooth pastes.
Though lighter calcium carbonate is used in tooth paste but in tooth powders heavier
grade calcium carbonate is used. Other ingredients are similar to that of tooth paste.
General procedure for manufacture

• This is done by simple mixing

• First ingredients of small quantity are premixed and then mixed with other ingredients.

• Ribbon type or agitator type of mixer are used.

• Flavour can be sprayed on to the bulk or can be premixed with part of some abrasive.
EVALUATION OF SOLID DENTAL PRODUCTS
Identification of ingredients and estimation of their contents are essential components of
overall quality control and evaluation of dental care products. The products, tooth pastes and
tooth powders, can be basically classified into foam forming and non-foam forming.
Some other special evaluation tests are as follows:

ABRASIVENESS
• Various tests have been designed and reported over the year, mostly on the set of extracted
teeth.
• The teeth were mechanically brushed with pastes or powders and then the effects were
studied by observation, mechanical or other means.
• Abrasive character normally depended on the particle size. So, study of particle size can
also give such idea.
Particle size
This can be determined by microscopic study of the particles or by sieving or other means.

Cleansing property
This is studied by measuring the change in the reflectance character of a lacquer coating on the polyester film
caused by brushing with a tooth cleanser (paste or powder). Also an in vivo test has been suggested in which
teeth were brushed for two weeks and condition of teeth was assessed before and after use with the help of
photo graphs.

Consistency
It is important that the product , paste, should maintain the consistency to enable the product press out from the
container. Study of viscosity is essential for this. Rheology of powders is also important for proper flow of the
powder from the container.
pH of the product
pH of the dispersion of 10 % of the product in water is determined by PH meter.

Foaming character
This test is specially required for foam forming tooth pastes or tooth powders. Specific
amount of product can be mixed with specific amount of water and to be shaken. The foam
thus formed is studied for its nature, stability, washability.

Limit test for arsenic and lead

This is very important as these are highly toxic metals. Specific tests are there to estimate
these two metals; products may not have excess of such metals.
Volatile matters and moisture
A specific amount of the product required to be taken in a dish and drying is to be done till
constant weight. Loss of weight will indicate percentage of moisture and volatile matters.

Effect of special ingredients

Special test should be done for the special ingredients if any, like antiseptics, enzymes, etc.
for each one special and specific test are to be done.