ILKAL
SAREES
By Kaustubha Anand
FP 5
BD/17/1061
10
INDEX
• Background
• Tools and Raw Material
• Making Process – Dyeing, Weaving, Packaging
1. Cold water dyeing, Hot water dyeing
2. Handloom weaving, power loom weaving
• Products
BACKGROUND
• Ilkal got its name from the town of Ilkal in Bagalkot district of Karnataka
• These are manufactured with art silk or silk warp. They can have cotton or silk weft
• The Pallu and border warp are joined in loop technique, it is locally known as Tope Teni
• Weft is inserted using Three shuttle technique known as Kondi.
• The unique feature of Ilkal saree is it's pallu that consists of contrast color in this case red and
white.
Weaving of Ilkal Saree
Feature of pallu
BACKGROUND
• The pit loom is generally referred to as kuni magga where traditional gomi or chikiparas borders
of the saree are generally woven.
• One of the distinctive features of this saree it is fine, in some cases with delicate kasuti
embroidery that is as usually done an embellishment
• White silk yarns are usually preferred for weaving.
BACKGROUND
Dobby Loom allows the manufacture of complex patterns
TOOLS AND RAW MATERIAL
• Ilkal Saree in olden times were woven more with silk due to the high rate of silk, the use of silk is
comparatively lesser
• Also usage of art silk became a part and addition of cotton, nowadays these type of Ilkal saree are
commonly found
TOOLS AND RAW MATERIAL
The Tools and raw materials commonly used in the making of these saree are as follows:
• Silk Yarns: Are one of the main materials used • Phirki (bamboo swift): Are mostly preferred
for weaving of the Ilkal sarees. for winding the silk yarns
• Art Silk Yarns: Art silk or artificial silk yarns • Bobbins: Are mostly used for winding the
are specially made from the synthetic fiber. yarns for additional process
• Cotton Yarns: Cotton grown in the
neighbouring places made to yarns are • Charkha: It is equipment where the yarns are
generally preferred. wound on the pirns
• Mud Pots: Specially used for colouring the • Plastic Pirns: Are used for winding the yarns
hank of yarns. for weaving
• Fly Shuttle: Used to insert the weft thread as • Brush: Used to spread the yarns for coloring
per the pattern.
• Scissors: Are generally used to cut the
unwanted threads
TOOLS AND RAW MATERIAL
Flying shuttle loaded with pirns
The tool where two different shades of thread are
joined together
TOOLS AND RAW MATERIAL
Brush with synthetic hairs helps in separating each
threads during the dyeing process
Wood ash and natural gum used during joining of two
different threads together
MAKING PROCESS
• The making process has three steps
• Dyeing
• Weaving
• Packaging
MAKING PROCESS
• Dyeing
• Before the weaving of the Ilkal saree the cotton yarns are dyed into desired colors in the process
of Cold water dyeing and Hot water Dyeing
• Cold Water Dyeing:
• It is the process where the natural silk yarns or cotton yarns are separated from the bundle and
firstly dipped into a soap solution then required dye is mixed into the soap solution and the yarns
are further dipped into the dye solution to absorb the colour and are kept for some time .
• Then the yarns are taken out and with a rod the excess of water is squeezed out from the dyed
yarn.
• The dyed yarns are kept under the sun to dry. The cold water dyeing is completed
MAKING PROCESS
The soap solution is prepared for the yarns to be dyed
Golden colour is poured into the soap solution
MAKING PROCESS
The white yarn changes into yellow and is pulled out of the
solution
Dyed yarns are placed under the sun to dry
MAKING PROCESS
• Dyeing
• Before the weaving of the Ilkal saree the cotton yarns are dyed into desired colours in the process
of Cold water dyeing and Hot water Dyeing
• Hot Water Dyeing :
• In this process liquid dye is mixed with water to from a thick solution where the bundle of yarn is
soaked into the solution and taken out and are kept aside for further dyeing
• Hot water is boiled in a vessel and dyed powder is added to the hot water to make a solution
• The dyed yarns are further dipped into the boiling vessel and kept for two hours to absorb the
colour.
• The dyed yarns are taken out of the vessel and the water is squeezed out and again the yarns are
soaked in cold water and further squeezed and kept under the sun to dry.
MAKING PROCESS
The dyed yarns are kept in the boiling solution to absorb
the colours
The dyed yarns are again soaked in cold water
MAKING PROCESS
• Weaving
• Weaving is done in two ways
• Handloom, Powerloom
• Handloom:
• Ilkal saree is woven in cotton along with art silk, with a border and a pallu of art silk or in
mixed art silk and cotton.
• Gomi border and chikki paras’ border are the two types of borders observed in the Ilkal
saree.
• Chikki means dots or stars and kaddi, kondi means small or big, dots or stars.
• The two borders look similar except that the triangles are smaller in the kaddi chikki and can
be used in more number
MAKING PROCESS
The process of joining two different threads together
To position the silk thread in place the heddle shaft of
the loom is used
MAKING PROCESS
After the thread is positioned, the flying shuttle is
again pushed through the yarn
Flying shuttle loaded with pirn is inserted into the divided yarns
to weave them
MAKING PROCESS
The thread is again flattened with the heddle shaft to
its position
After the Ilkal saree is weaved fifteen centimeters of yarn is left
out
MAKING PROCESS
• Weaving
• Weaving is done in two ways
• Handloom, Powerloom
• Powerloom:
• In order to save time power loom is also used for weaving the Ilkal sarees. Few weavers brush the yarns
on the loom evenly and apply water to it with the bear hands
• Then applies the colour mixture solution on the top, bottom portions of the yarn and allows it to dry,
simultaneously weaving process goes on.
• Between the lengths of each saree about 15 cms of yarn is left and the next saree is woven. Each saree
is cut from the loom and given to the elderly women of the house who engages in tying beautiful
fringes with the left over yarns.
• After which the saree is folded neatly and sent for packaging process which is then distributed to the
customers in request.
MAKING PROCESS
The loaded spindle is soaked in water
The pirns are spun from the spindles
MAKING PROCESS
The warping process is started in the power loom
Metallic frames (creels) holds the bobbins through which the
threads are passed on to the warping machine
MAKING PROCESS
Artisan setting up the yarn on the loom as per the
pattern required
Water is applied to the unweave yarns attached on the loom
MAKING PROCESS
A power loom displaying the patterns used in weaving
of the fabrics
The woven fabric is rolled in place and further weaving is
processed
MAKING PROCESS
• The making process has three steps
• Packaging
• The traditional Ilkal sarees are then taken to the packaging process. In this process each saree is
ensured and packed one by one with the help of a packaging machine
• The sarees are packed with brown paper and are tied together with a strong rope and are
prepared for sale.
MAKING PROCESS
The products are placed in top of one another in the
packaging machine
All the products are tied firmly in a package
PRODUCTS
• A Large number of variations in the size and • Patang Checks: Also known as shirting checks
composition of checks are usually found in which have more elaborate checks
the body of Ilkal saree some are mentioned • Mandap Checks: The two warp yarns and
below weft are positioned at certain distance to
• Ragavali: With simple checks of two and four form larger check
ends are normally called Ragavali
• Dapla Checks: Are usually like the Mandap
• Kaddi Chikki: Pattern of saree with smaller but smaller
checks • Pancarangi: Checks with generally three or
• Jabra Patta: This word is said to originate more coloured ends
from the zebra stripes with broad stripes in
the body
THANK YOU
