WAVES & WATER
DYNAMICS
MUHAMMAD NAZIRUL BIN ZAHRI
DARLSON. A SEM
SHAHRIZWAN BIN SUBRI
Compare between waves
&
current
Definition
Waves
moving energy traveling along the interface between
ocean & atmosphere, often transferring energy from a
storm far out at sea over distance of several thousand
kilometers.
Currents
masses of water that flow from one place to another.
Characteristic of the waves
Wavelength
measures the distance between two equivalent parts
Wave height
the waves height can measured between crest and
trough
Crest
highest portion of a wave
Trough
lowest portion of a wave
Wave motion
Transverse
oscillations perpendicular to the direction
of propagation
Longitudinal
oscillations parallel to the direction of
propagation
Current Waves
• Generated by the forces • Generated by wind
acting upon this mean flow.
e.g; breaking waves, wind,
Coriolis effect, temperature
and salinity
• The current not cause • The waves not deflect
damage and deflect when when collision with the land
collision the land and it can cause damage
• Moving in the all oceans • Movement is not extensive
in the world
How Do Constructive &
Destructive Interferences
Affect Wave
Interference
What are two types of interference?
Interference occurs when two or more waves
overlap and combine together.
Two types of interference are constructive
interference and destructive interference.
Interference
When waves collide, they can occupy the same
region of space and then continue on.
Constructive interference occurs when two or more
waves combine to produce a wave with a larger
displacement.
Destructive interference occurs when two or more
waves combine to produce a wave with a smaller
displacement.
Constructive Interference
Constructive Interference
Two waves with equal frequencies travel in
Two waves in phase add together,
which is called constructive
opposite directions. interference.
When a crest meets a crest, the result is a wave
with an increased amplitude.
Destructive Interference
Destructive Interference
Two waves with equal frequencies travel in Two waves out of phase cancel each
opposite directions. other out, which is destructive
When a crest meets a trough, the result is a interference.
wave with a reduced amplitude.
Interference of Waves
Factors affecting the interference of water waves;
Different wavelengths
Variables bending moment of waves frequencies
Distance between two consecutive node lines, or, antinodes
lines
Which is a point of constructive interference?
Constructive interference occurs at A and C.
B A
C
Which is a point of constructive interference?
B A
Destructive interference occurs at B.
DIFFERENTIATE BETWEEN A
SEA AND A SWELL
Sea
The wind blows over the ocean surface, it creates
pressure and stress.
These factor deform the ocean surface into small,
rounded wave with V-shape troughs and wavelength
less then 1.74 cm.
Commonly, call ripples or capillary wave. The
length of gravity wave is generally 15 to 35 times
their heights. As additional energy gained, wave
height increase more rapidly than wavelength.
Swell
The wave generate in a sea area move toward margins,
wind speeds diminish and the waves eventually move
faster than the wind
Swells are uniform, symmetrical waves that have
traveled out of the area where they originated.
Swells moves with little loss of energy over large
stretches of the ocean surface, transporting energy
away from one sea area and depositing it in another.
sea swell
SEA SWELL
Blows over the ocean surface, Generate when wind speed
create pressure and stress. diminishes & waves travel
faster than the wind.
Deform the ocean surface Uniform symmetrical waves
into small, rounded waves that traveled out of their area
with V-shape troughs & of origin.
wavelengths less than 1.74
cm. Called swells when steepness
Called ripples or capillary decrease, and wave become
waves. long-crested waves.