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Vancouver Cardigan Knitting

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Written Pattern

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Vancouver Cardigan Video tutorial
Scan the QR code to:
1. Open the
The numbers highlighted in purple indicate the slim fit sizes. default camera app
The base pattern is a semi-oversized fit, and slim fit sizes have been added. 2. Scan a QR code
Numbers without purple highlighting apply to both semi-oversized and slim fit versions. 3. Click the link that
appears at the bottom

Yarn Usage :Mulberry Silk Mohair (25g / 210m ≒ 0.88 oz / 230 yd per ball) 8 (8) 8 (8) 9 (9) 10 / 7 (7) 7 (8) 8 (9) 9 balls
Approx. 180 (185) 190 (200) 210 (220) 230g [6.3 (6.5) 6.7 (7.1) 7.4 (7.8) 8.1 oz]
Approx. 155 (165) 175 (180) 190 (205) 220g [5.5 (5.8) 6.2 (6.3) 6.7 (7.2) 7.8 oz]
Pigment Wool (260g / 600m ≒ 9.2 oz / 656 yd per cone) 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 cones / 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 cones
Approx. 380 (390) 410 (430) 450 (480) 520g [13.4 (13.8) 14.5 (15.2) 15.9 (16.9) 18.3 oz]
Approx. 330 (355) 375 (385) 405 (445) 475g [11.6 (12.5) 13.2 (13.6) 14.3 (15.7) 16.8 oz]
Sizes :XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL
Sample Size - Mulberry Silk Mohair Version: M(semi-oversized)
Pigment Wool Version: XS(semi-oversized)
Bust Circumference : Mulberry Silk Mohair Version
95 (100) 105 (110) 115 (125) 130 cm [37.4 (39.4) 41.3 (43.3) 45.3 (49.2) 51.2 in]
82 (88) 93 (95) 101 (110) 118 cm [32.3 (34.6) 36.6 (37.4) 39.8 (43.3) 46.5 in]
Pigment Wool Version
100 (106) 112 (116) 121 (131) 141 cm [39.4 (41.7) 44.1 (45.7) 47.6 (51.6) 55.5 in]
86 (92) 98 (100) 106 (116) 124 cm [33.9 (36.2) 38.6 (39.4) 41.7 (45.7) 48.8 in]
Length : 44 (45) 47 (47) 49 (51) 51 cm [17.3 (17.7) 18.5 (18.5) 19.3 (20.1) 20.1 in]
(Measured from the center back of the neck)
Needles : 4mm [US 6](Mulberry Silk Mohair Version), 4.5mm [US 7](Pigment Wool Version)
interchangeable needles + 40cm [16 in]or 60cm [24 in], 80cm [32 in] cables, tapestry needle,
locking stitch markers, stitch markers(can use locking stitch markers)
*40cm [16 in] or 60cm [24 in] cables → for sleeves (When the stitch count decreases, use magic loop

with an 80 cm [32 in] cable or switch to short tips)

*80cm [32 in] cables → for front, back, and body

Gauge : 21 sts 31 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 in] (in stockinette stitch using 4 mm [US 6] needles
with 2 strands of Mulberry Silk Mohair held together)
20 sts 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 in] (in stockinette stitch using 4.5 mm [US 7] needles
with 1 strand of Pigment Wool)
Buttons : Icing Buttons, 15mm, 5 pcs (Mulberry Silk Mohair Version),
Latte Buttons, 15mm, 5 pcs (Pigment Wool Version)

Construction

This is a top-down pattern. You begin by casting on stitches for the upper back and shaping the shoulder slope. After working
the armhole increases, the back is set aside. Each front shoulder is then worked separately by picking up stitches and shaping
the round neckline. Once both fronts are complete, the front and back pieces are joined and the body is worked in one piece.

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Stitches are picked up around the armhole to shape the sleeve cap using short rows, and the sleeves are then worked in the
round while gradually decreasing. The pattern includes both a semi-oversized fit and a slim fit, with approximately 15–20 cm
[6–8 in] of positive ease. Choose your preferred fit before casting on. The shoulder construction and sleeve caps are designed to
resemble a bottom-up sweater.

How to Read the Pattern

Only follow the stitch counts and instructions for the size you are making. For example, if the sizes are written as XS (S) M (L) XL
(2XL) 3XL and you are knitting size S, follow the numbers in the middle (e.g., 10 (11) 12 (13) 14 (15) → you follow 11).
Use a highlighter or your preferred marking tool to help you keep track of your size throughout the pattern. Before starting each
section, read through the entire paragraph carefully so you understand the construction in advance.

When the pattern says "Repeat X times in total", this includes the row(s) you've just worked.
When it says "Repeat X more times", work the indicated row(s) again that many additional times.

Terms & Abbreviations

M1L : Lift the strand between stitches from front to back with the left needle, then knit it through the back loop.
M1R : Lift the strand between stitches from back to front with the left needle, then knit it through the front loop.
SSP : Slip two stitches one at a time knitwise. Then insert the left needle into the front of both slipped stitches as if to purl,
and purl them together through the back loops.
SSK : Skip in the knit stitch direction, then insert the left needle from the left side of the stitch and twist it back. Afterward,
knit both stitches together through the back.
Kfb : Knit into the front of the stitch, but do not slip it off the left needle. Then knit into the back loop of the same stitch.

Pfb : Purl into the front of the stitch, but do not slip it off the left needle. Then purl into the back loop of the same stitch.

K2tog : Knit two stitches together.

P2tog : Purl two stitches together.

Turn (german short row) : W

 ork to the indicated stitch and turn the work. Bring the yarn to the front, slip 1 stitch purlwise,
then pull the yarn to the back to create a double stitch.
*When you come to a double stitch, work it as one stitch—knit or purl as indicated.

Pattern

* Before You Begin

1. Use 2 strands of Mulberry Silk Mohair throughout with 4 mm [US 6] needles, and 1 strand of Pigment Wool throughout
with 4.5 mm [US 7] needles.
2. The pattern includes two sets of stitch counts. Black numbers indicate the semi-oversized fit / Purple numbers indicate
the slim fit. Choose your preferred fit before starting.
3. Numbers without purple highlighting apply to both fits.

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1. Casting on & Shoulder Shaping

The semi-oversized version may turn out larger than expected. If you prefer a more fitted look with defined shoulders,
choose the slim fit.
With 2 strands of Mulberry Silk Mohair held together and 4mm [US 6] needles (80 cm / 32 in cable), or with 1 strand of Pigment
Wool and 4.5mm [US 7] needles (80 cm / 32 in cable), cast on 80 (84) 86 (88) 90 (94) 98 sts / 66 (70) 72 (72) 74 (78) 80 sts using the
long-tail cast-on method. Work flat as follows:

Row 1(WS): Purl all sts

Row 2(RS): Knit to the last 21 (23) 24 (25) 25 (27) 29 sts / 14 (16) 17 (17) 17 (19) 20 sts, turn
Row 3(WS): Purl to the last 21 (23) 24 (25) 25 (27) 29 sts / 14 (16) 17 (17) 17 (19) 20 sts, turn
Row 4(RS): Knit 3 sts / 2 sts past the turn st, turn(*Refer to the video via the QR code on page 2 for guidance)
Row 5(WS): Purl 3 sts / 2 sts past the turn st, turn(*Refer to the video via the QR code on page 2 for guidance)

Repeat Rows 4–5 a total of 6 (7) 7 (7) 7 (8) 9 times. Including the turns in Rows 2–3, you will have worked 7 (8) 8 (8) 8 (9) 10 turns
on each side. After the last turn, you will have 3 (2) 3 (4) 4 (3) 2 sts / 2 (2) 3 (3) 3 (3) 2 sts remaining on each side.
End with a WS row; the next row will be a RS row. Now, without any increases or decreases, work in stockinette stitch(knit on RS,
purl on WS), counting rows from the center of the cast-on (the section without turns), until you have worked 53 (53) 49 (49) 49
(45) 43 rows. (*The back is not yet complete. The number of rows may not increase linearly with size, as larger sizes require more
rows during the armhole shaping.) End with a WS row; the next row will be a RS row.

2. Armhole Increases

Now begin the armhole increases, as follows:

Row 1(RS) : K2, M1L, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, K2 (2 sts increased)
Row 2(WS) : Purl all sts

Repeat Rows 1–2 a total of 4 (5) 7 (8) 9 (12) 14 times,

then work Row 1 once more. You will have worked 5 (6) 8 (9) 10 (13) 15 increase rows in total. All sizes end with a RS row.
You should now have 90 (96) 102 (106) 110 (120) 128 sts / 76 (82) 88 (90) 94 (104) 110 sts on the needle. The number of rows from
the center of the cast-on (the section without turns) should now be 62 (64) 64 (66) 68 (70) 72 rows. Break the yarn and place the
stitches on a spare cable or scrap yarn. Next, work the left front shoulder (as worn).

3. Left Front Shoulder(as worn)

With the right side of the back facing you, pick up and knit 22 (24) 25 (26) 26 (28) 30 코 / 15 Pick up direction
(17) 18 (18) 18 (20) 21 sts along the cast-on edge from neckline to shoulder, using 2 strands of
Mulberry Silk Mohair and 4 mm [US 6] needles (80 cm / 32 in cable), or 1 strand of Pigment Wool
[Back(RS)]
and 4.5 mm [US 7] needles (80 cm / 32 in cable).

Work 1 WS row in purl.

Place a stitch marker on any stitch to mark the starting row for counting. The next row is a RS
row. Work flat in stockinette stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS) for 14 (14) 14 (14) 16 (16) 16 rows.
(Including the row with the marker, you will have worked 15 (15) 15 (15) 17 (17) 17 rows in total.)

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End with a WS row. Now begin shaping the neckline as follows:

Row 1(RS): K2, M1L, knit to the end

Row 2(WS): Purl all sts

Repeat Rows 1–2 a total of 9 (9) 9 (9) 9 (9) 9 times.

After completing the last WS row, with the WS still facing you, cast on 7 (7) 7 (7) 7 (7) 7 sts using the cable cast-on method (onto
the right-hand needle). You now have 38 (40) 41 (42) 42 (44) 46 sts / 31 (33) 34 (34) 34 (36) 37 sts on the needle. The next row is a
RS row. Continue in stockinette stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS) until you have worked 67 (67) 63 (65) 65 (61) 59 rows from the row
marked with the stitch marker. *The front must be longer than the back to shape the back neckline properly.

4. Left Front Armhole Increase(as worn)

Now work the armhole increases for the left front as follows:

Row 1(RS): Knit to the last 2 sts, M1R, K2 (1 st increased)

Row 2(WS): Purl all sts

Repeat Rows 1–2 a total of 4 (5) 7 (8) 9 (12) 14 times,

then work Row 1 once more. You will have worked 5 (6) 8 (9) 10 (13) 15 increase rows in total. All sizes end with a RS row.
You should now have 43 (46) 49 (51) 52 (57) 61 sts / 36 (39) 42 (43) 44 (49) 52 sts on the needle. From the row marked with the
stitch marker on the shoulder, you should have worked 76 (78) 78 (82) 84 (86) 88 rows. Break the yarn and place the stitches on
a spare cable or scrap yarn. Next, work the right front shoulder (as worn).

5. Right Front Shoulder(as worn)

With the right side of the back facing you, pick up and knit 22 (24) 25 (26) 26 (28) 30 sts / 15 Pick up direction

(17) 18 (18) 18 (20) 21 sts along the cast-on edge from shoulder to neckline, using 2 strands of
Mulberry Silk Mohair and 4 mm [US 6] needles (80 cm / 32 in cable), or 1 strand of Pigment Wool
and 4.5 mm [US 7] needles (80 cm / 32 in cable).
[Back(RS)]

Work 1 WS row in purl.

Place a stitch marker on any stitch to mark the starting row for counting. The next row is a RS row. Work flat in stockinette stitch
(knit on RS, purl on WS) for 14 (14) 14 (14) 16 (16) 16 rows. (Including the row with the marker, you will have worked 15 (15) 15
(15) 17 (17) 17 rows.) End with a WS row. Now begin shaping the neckline as follows:

Row 1(RS): Knit to the last 2 sts, M1R, K2 (1 st increased)

Row 2(WS): Purl all sts

Repeat Rows 1–2 a total of 8 (8) 8 (8) 8 (8) 8 times.

then work Row 1 once more. (You will have worked 9 increase rows in total.) With the RS facing, cast on 7 (7) 7 (7) 7 (7) 7 sts
using the cable cast-on method (onto the right-hand needle). You now have 38 (40) 41 (42) 42 (44) 46 sts / 31 (33) 34 (34) 34 (36)
37 sts on the needle. The next row is a WS row.
Continue in stockinette stitch (purl on WS, knit on RS) until you have worked 67 (67) 63 (65) 65 (61) 59 rows from the row marked
with the stitch marker on the shoulder.

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6. Right Front Armhole Increase (as worn)

Begin the armhole increases for the right front with the right side of the fabric facing you, as follows:

Row 1(RS): K2, M1L, knit to end (1 st increased)

Row 2(WS): Purl all sts

Repeat Rows 1–2 a total of 5 (6) 8 (9) 10 (13) 15 times. All sizes end with a WS row. You should now have 43 (46) 49 (51) 52 (57)
61 sts / 36 (39) 42 (43) 44 (49) 52 sts on the needle. From the row marked with the stitch marker on the shoulder, you will have
worked 77 (79) 79 (83) 85 (87) 89 rows. Do not break the yarn. With the wrong side facing, continue to the next section.

7. Joining Fronts and Back, and Working the Body

You have now completed the right front armhole shaping. With the WS facing, cast on 10 (10) 10 (10) 12 (12) 14 sts using the
cable cast-on method. Place the held sts of the back onto the 4 mm [US 6] or 4.5 mm [US 7] needle. With the WS still facing,
purl across all back sts. Then cast on 10 (10) 10 (10) 12 (12) 14 sts using the cable cast-on method again. Place the held sts of
the left front onto the 4 mm [US 6] or 4.5 mm [US 7] needle, and with the WS still facing, purl across all sts. The front and back
pieces are now joined and all stitches are on one needle. You now have 196 (208) 220 (228) 238 (258) 278 sts / 168 (180) 192 (196)
206 (226) 242 sts on the needle. The next row is a RS row. Continue in stockinette stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS) until the work
measures 37 (38) 40 (40) 42 (44) 44 cm [14½ (15) 15¾ (15¾) 16½ (17¼) 17¼] in from the center back neck. End with a WS row.
The next row will be a RS row.

8. Body Ribbing

Do not change needles. Work the ribbing as follows:

Row 1(RS): P1, K1, [P1, K1] repeat to last 2 sts, p2tog
Row 2(WS): [K1, P1] repeat to last st, K1

You are working 1x1 ribbing: on RS rows, it begins and ends with a purl stitch, and on WS rows, it begins and ends with a knit
stitch. Continue in 1x1 rib until the ribbing measures 20 rows / approx. 6 cm (2¼ in). With the RS facing, bind off using the
tubular bind-off method with a tapestry needle.

9. Sleeves

Both sleeves are worked the same way. Using 4 mm [US 6] needles (Mulberry Silk Mohair, held double) or 4.5 mm [US 7] needles
(Pigment Wool, held single) with a 40 cm [16 in] or 60 cm [24 in] cable, pick up and knitpick up and knit 5 (5) 5 (5) 6 (6) 7 sts
along the left side of the underarm cast-on, and place a marker. Along the armhole edge, pick up and knit 2 sts for every 3
rows (i.e., pick up 2 sts, skip 1), for a total of 86 (88) 88 (92) 94 (96) 96 sts, and 10 (12) 12 (12) 14 (16) 16 sts

place a marker. Pick up and knit 5 (5) 5 (5) 6 (6) 7 sts along the right side of the
Marker A Marker B
underarm cast-on. Then, using removable stitch markers, count 38 (38) 38 (40)
40 (40) 40 sts outwards from each underarm marker and place a marker. These
38 (38) 38 (40) 38 (38) 38 (40)
will mark the start and end points for the short rows. (See diagram on the right.)
40 (40) 40 sts 40 (40) 40 sts
Cut the working yarn and prepare to shape the sleeve cap as described below
using German short rows.

Underarm 10 (10) 10 (10) 12 (12) 14 sts

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Row 1 (RS): Slip 1 stitch just before Marker A, join new yarn, knit to Marker B, slip marker, K1, turn (remove Marker B)
Row 2 (WS): Purl to Marker A, slip marker, p1, turn (remove Marker A)
Row 3 (RS): Knit 2 sts past the turn st, turn
Row 4 (WS): Purl 2 sts past the turn st, turn

Repeat Rows 3–4 a total of 8 (8) 8 (9) 9 (9) 9 times.

Including Rows 1–2, you will have worked 9 (9) 9 (10) 10 (10) 10 turns on each side, and you will have knitted 18 (18) 18 (20) 20
(20) 20 rows from the initial picked-up point. After the last turn, the RS is facing.
This completes the first part of the sleeve short rows. Continue as follows to shape the sleeve cap and decrease to the proper
stitch count.

Row 1 (RS): Knit to the stitch just before the turned stitch, pull the wrap to the back of the needle and tighten the stitch before it
(*see video), k2tog (the turned stitch and the next), K1, turn
Row 2 (WS): Purl to the stitch just before the turned stitch, ssp, P1, turn

Repeat Rows 1–2 a total of 8 (8) 8 (8) 8 (8) 8 times.

You will now have 5 (5) 5 (5) 5 (5) 5 unworked sts on each side between the last turn and the underarm marker. This completes
the second part of the sleeve short rows. Continue as follows to further shape the sleeve cap, working back and forth without
turning (as if knitting a scarf):

Row 1 (RS): Knit to the stitch just before the turned stitch, pull the wrap to the back of the needle and tighten the previous stitch
(see video), k2tog, flip work (do not turn)
Row 2 (WS): With yarn in front, slip 1 purlwise, purl to the stitch just before the turned stitch, ssp, flip work (do not turn)
Row 3 (RS): With yarn in back, slip 1 purlwise, knit to the stitch just before the end (see video), ssk, flip work (do not turn)
Row 4 (WS): With yarn in front, slip 1 purlwise, purl to the stitch just before the end, p2tog, flip work (do not turn)

Repeat Rows 3–4 a total of 3 (3) 3 (3) 3 (3) 3 times, until only 1 unworked stitch remains before each underarm marker. RS is
facing.

Work Row 3 once more. Do not turn the work. Remove the underarm marker. Knit 5 (5) 5 (5) 6 (6) 7 sts, place a beginning of
round marker, knit the remaining 5 (5) 5 (5) 6 (6) 7 sts. Remove the other underarm marker. Work k2tog with the next two sts,
then knit to the beginning of round marker.

You now have 70 (72) 72 (76) 80 (82) 84 sts on the needle. The sleeve cap shaping is complete. Continue in stockinette in the
round, following the sleeve instructions. You may adjust the length by changing the number of rounds after the final decrease or
adjusting the number of decrease repeats.

[Mulberry Silk Mohair version (Gauge: 30–31 rows per 10 cm / 4 in)]

Work 13 (13) 13 (11) 9 (13) 8 rounds, then repeat: [decrease round, 9 (9) 9 (9) 9 (8) 8 rounds] x 12, work 1 more decrease round,
work 5 (5) 5 (5) 5 (5) 5 rounds

*Decrease round: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, SSK

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[Pigment Wool version (Gauge: 26–28 rows per 10 cm / 4 in)]

Work 9 (9) 9 (7) 5 (9) 4 rounds, then repeat: [decrease round, 6 (6) 6 (6) 6 (5) 5 rounds] x 12, work 1 more decrease round,
work 5 (5) 5 (5) 5 (5) 5 rounds

*Decrease round: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, SSK

You should now have 44 (46) 46 (50) 54 (56) 58 sts on your needle. Without changing needles, work 1x1 rib (K1, P1) until the rib
measures 20 rounds (approx. 6 cm / 2¼"). Bind off using the tubular bind-off with a tapestry needle.

10. Left Button Band(as worn)

This part is worked at the
Using Mulberry Silk Mohair held double with 4mm [US 6] needles (80cm [32 in] cable) neckline

or Pigment Wool single with 4.5mm needles (80cm [32 in] cable), pick up sts along the
RS of the left front, from neck edge to end of body ribbing. Pick up 2 sts every 3 rows
(pick up 2, skip 1), keeping an even number of sts. Mark buttonhole positions with stitch
markers: one 1 cm from the bottom rib edge, and three evenly spaced above. (*Refer to
the diagram)

Work in rib as follows:

Row 1 (WS): kfb, K1, P1 to last st, K1

Row 2 (RS): P1, K1 to last st, P1
Row 3 (WS): K1, P1 rib; at buttonhole marker on a purl stitch, work slip stitch, k2tog to
1cm
make buttonhole. Continue rib, end K1. [0.4 in]
Row 4 (RS): P1, K1 to last st, P1
Row 5 (WS): K1, P1 to last st, K1
Row 6 (RS): P1, K1 to last st, P1

Bind off with tubular bind-off using tapestry needle.

11. Right Button Band(as worn)

Using Mulberry Silk Mohair held double with 4mm [US 6] needles (80cm [32 in] cable) or Pigment Wool single with 4.5mm
needles (80cm [32 in] cable), pick up sts along the RS of the right front, from the bottom rib edge up toward the neck.
Pick up 2 sts every 3 rows (pick up 2, skip 1), keeping an even number of sts.

Work rib as follows:

Row 1 (WS): K1, P1 to last 2 sts, K1, pfb
Row 2 (RS): P1, K1 to last st, P1
Row 3 (WS): K1, P1 to last st, K1
Row 4 (RS): P1, K1 to last st, P1
Row 5 (WS): K1, P1 to last st, K1
Row 6 (RS): P1, K1 to last st, P1

Bind off with tubular bind-off using a tapestry needle.

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12. Neckband

Using Mulberry Silk Mohair held double with 4mm [US 6] needles (80cm [32 in] cable) or Pigment Wool single with 4.5mm
needles (80cm [32 in] cable), pick up sts along the right front neck edge, working with the right side facing you.
Pick up sts as follows: 2 sts every 3 rows along the button band, every stitch along the neck edge, and 2 sts every 3 rows along
the rows, making an odd number of sts total.

Row 1 (WS): Begin with a knit front and back (kfb), then work [K1, P1] to the last 2 sts. For the last stitch, knit it pfb-style without
slipping the stitch off the left needle—bring the yarn to the back and knit into the back loop.
Row 2 (RS): Work [P1, K1] to the last stitch, then purl the last stitch
Row 3 (WS): Work K1, P1, K1, P1, then slip the next stitch, p2tog, and continue [K1, P1] to the last stitch, finishing with K1
Row 4 (RS): Work [P1, K1] to the last stitch, then purl the last stitch
Row 5 (WS): Work [K1, P1] to the last stitch, then knit the last stitch
Row 6 (RS): Work [P1, K1] to the last stitch, then purl the last stitch

Bind off using the tubular bind-off method with a tapestry needle.

13. Finishing

Weave all in ends using a tapestry needle.

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