93079
Version 1
93079
GARTEN – PULLOVER
A wonderful luxurious sweater with a gently-shaped silhouette and a V-neck on the back. A loose
gauge combines with the fiber qualities to produce a soft drape. A purl I-cord adds finesse to all the
edges. The sweater is worked top down in one piece with raglan shaping for the sleeves.
YARN Alpacka Silk (45% baby alpacka, 40% Merino GARMENT SLEEVE LENGTH Approx. 19 in / 48 cm (all
wool, 15% silk, 180 yd/165 m / 50 g) sizes)
YARN ALTERNATIVES Fin Alpacka (100% alpaca, 180 GARMENT SIDE LENGTH Approx. 15 in / 38 cm (all
yd/165 m / 50 g sizes)
GAUGE Approx. 20 sts x 26 rows/rnds in stockinette on YARN AMOUNTS Approx. 300 (300, 300, 350, 350, 400,
gauge-size needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. 400, 450) g (color 29504, Black Raven)
Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if necessary. NEEDLES U. S. size 8 / 5 mm: 16 and 32 in / 40 and 80
SIZES XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL) cm circulars; optional: set of 5 dpn for sleeves
POSITIVE EASE Approx. 3¼-4¾ in / 8-12 cm NOTIONS 5 stitch markers (each different colors and 4
GARMENT CHEST Approx. 34¾ (37¾, 41, 44, 48, 52, 56, are locking ring)
59¾) in / 88 (96, 104, 112, 122, 132, 142, 152) cm DIFFICULTY Intermediate
GARMENT LENGHT Approx. 12¾ (13½, 14¼, 16½, 17¾, DESIGN Ellen Furderer
17¾, 19, 20) in / 32 (34, 36, 42, 45, 45, 48, 51) cm
STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES the pieces and knit in the round.
See Tips and Shortcuts on the last page for common When the raglan increases are finished, the piece is
abbreviations and other useful information. then divided for body and sleeves, with each worked
separately and finished with a purl I-cord. The body is
M1R = make 1 right: With left needle, lift strand gently shaped at the back, around the waist.
between 2 sts from back to front and knit into front Finally, you’ll pick up and knit stitches around the neck
loop = right-leaning increase. and edge it with a purl I-cord.
M1L = make 1 left: With left needle, lift strand between
2 sts from front to back and knit into back loop = left- Purl I-cord
leaning increase. A purl I-cord is worked as for a “regular” knit I-cord but
K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together to decrease one stitch = made with purl stitches.
right-leaning decrease. CO 4 new sts onto left needle.
P2tog: Purl 2 stitches together to decrease one stitch. Work *P3, p2tog (joining 1 st of I-cord with 1 st of
Ssk (slip, slip, knit): One at a time, slip 2 stitches sweater edge), move the 4 sts from right to left needle*;
knitwise, place stitches back on left needle and knit repeat *-* until all the sts have been bound-off and 4 sts
together through back loops to decrease one stitch = remain.
left-leaning decrease. Leave the 4 rem sts on the needle and sew them to the
cast-on edge at beginning of I-cord.
Markers: Place marker between two stitches and slide
to right needle as you come to each. Pm = place Edge stitches
marker; slm = slip marker. When working back and forth, always knit the first and
last stitch of every RS row and purl the first and last
GARMENT CONSTRUCTION stitch on WS rows.
The sweater is worked from the top down in one piece.
You’ll begin by working back and forth with raglan CAST ON AND BEGIN
increases as well as increases at each edge to shape the With gauge-size circular, CO 76 (80, 78, 80, 78, 82, 86,
back V-neck. Once the V-neck is finished, you will join 90) sts.
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Version 1
Place the 4 locking ring markers for raglan lines as Continue around with raglan increases on every other
follows: rnd:
Row 1 (WS): P1, pm AROUND next st and then purl Rnd 1: Knit around.
that st, p16 (16, 14, 14, 12, 12, 12, 12), pm AROUND Rnd 2: *Knit to RM, M1R, knit RM, M1L*; rep *-* at each
next st and purl that st, p38 (42, 44, 46, 48, 52, 56, 60), RM and then knit to end of rnd.
pm AROUND next st and then purl that st, p16 (16, 14,
14, 12, 12, 12, 12), pm AROUND next st and then purl Work Rnds 1-2 a total of 1 (1, 2, 2, 5, 5, 5, 5) times = 272
that st, p1. (296, 312, 324, 356, 380, 404, 428) sts.
RAGLAN INCREASES The stitches are now divided as follows:
Work the raglan increases on every other row on each Back – 78 (86, 92, 96, 106, 114, 122, 130) sts,
side of each marked stitch (= RM, raglan marked st). 1 RM,
Sleeve – 56 (60, 62, 64, 70, 74, 78, 82) sts,
Begin working back and forth. When the increases for 1 RM,
the back V-neck are finished, you will join the piece and Front – 78 (86, 92, 96, 106, 114, 122, 130) sts,
knit in the round. 1 RM,
Sleeve – 56 (60, 62, 64, 70, 74, 78, 82) sts,
Work the increases on each side of each marked raglan 1 RM.
st as follows:
Row 1 (RS): *Knit to raglan marked st, M1R, knit RM, The raglan increases are now complete, and you can
M1L*; rep *-* at each raglan marked st, k1 = 8 sts remove the markers. Continue around in stockinette
increased. until piece measures approx. 8 (8¼, 8¾, 9, 9¾, 10¾, 11,
Row 2 (WS): Purl across. 11¾) in / 20 (21, 22, 23, 25, 27, 28, 30) cm as measured
along raglan lines.
Begin increases for V-neck on back:
Row 3 (RS): K1, M1L, *knit to RM, M1R, knit RM, M1L*; Now divide for body and sleeves with sleeve sts placed
rep *-* at each raglan marked st, knit until 1 st rem, on holders while you work the body in the round:
M1R, k1 = a total of 10 sts increased. K40 (44, 47, 49, 54, 58, 62, 66), place next 56 (60, 62, 64,
Row 4 (WS): Purl across. 70, 74, 78, 82) sts on a holder for sleeve, CO 8 (8, 10, 14,
14, 16, 18, 20) sts for underarm, k80 (88, 94, 98, 108, 116,
Repeat Rows 3-4 another 16 (18, 19, 20, 21, 23, 25, 27) 124, 132), place next 56 (60, 62, 64, 70, 74, 78, 82) sts on
times = a total repeat of these 2 rows 17 (19, 20, 21, 22, a holder for sleeve, CO 8 (8, 10, 14, 14, 16, 18, 20) sts for
24, 26, 28) times = 254 (278, 286, 298, 306, 330, 354, underarm, k40 (44, 47, 49, 54, 58, 62, 66).
378) sts. Place 2 more markers – one at center of each underarm
(= the sts just cast-on between front and back. There
The stitches are divided as follows: are now 176 (192, 208, 224, 244, 264, 284, 304) sts for
Back – 36 (40, 42, 44, 46, 50, 54, 58) sts, the body.
1 RM,
Sleeve – 52 (56, 56, 58, 58, 62, 66, 70) sts, BODY
1 RM, Knit around in stockinette until body measures approx.
Front – 74 (82, 86, 90, 94, 102, 110, 118) sts, 2½ in / 6 cm from underarms or approx. 3¼ in / 8 cm
1 RM, above your natural waistline.
Sleeve – 52 (56, 56, 58, 58, 62, 66, 70) sts, You will now shape the back with decreases at each
1 RM, side.
Back – 36 (40, 42, 44, 46, 50, 54, 58) sts. NOTE The decreases are made only on the back.
The back V-neck increases are now finished = a total of Knit until 3 sts before first marker at underarm, ssk, k1,
18 (20, 21, 22, 23, 25, 27, 29) rows of raglan increases slm, knit to next marker, slm, k1, k2tog, knit to end of
have been worked. rnd = 2 sts decreased on back.
At the end of the next RS row, you’ll cast on sts for Approximately every ¾ in 2 cm, decrease the same way
joining. Work as follows: another 3 times (= 4 times total) = a total of 8 sts
*Knit to RM, M1R, knit RM, M1L*; rep *-* at each RM, knit decreased on back.
to end of row. CO 2 new sts at end of row and pm
between the 2 sts for BOR (beginning of round) at
center back. From this point on, knit in the round.
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Version 1
After completing decreases, continue in stockinette for Continue in stockinette without further decreasing until
approx. 1½ in / 4 cm and then begin increasing as you sleeve measures approx. 19 in / 48 cm from underarm
decreased. or just short of desired finished length.
Knit until 1 st before first marker of underarm, M1R, k1, End with a purl I-cord worked with a U. S. 8 / 5 mm
slm, knit to next marker, slm, k1, M1L, knit to end of rnd needle (see Stitches and Techniques).
= 2 sts increased on back.
Make the second sleeve the same way.
Approximately every ¾ in 2 cm, increase the same way
another 3 times (= 4 times total) = 8 sts increased on NECKBAND
back. With RS facing, beginning at right shoulder, pick up and
knit sts around neckline as follows:
Continue knitting in the round until body measures Around shoulders and front neck, pick up and knit 1 st
approx. 14½ in / 37 cm (all sizes) from underarms or just in each st.
short of desired finished length. Along V-neck, pick up and knit 1 st per row.
End with a purl I-cord worked with a U. S. 8 / 5 mm Work purl I-cord over the picked-up sts (see Stitches
needle (see Stitches and Techniques). and Techniques).
SLEEVES TIP When you pick up and knit sts along V-neck, make
The sleeves are knitted in the round on a U. S. 8 / 5 mm sure you pick up 1 st per row; otherwise, the I-cord
needle (16 in / 40 cm or use dpn or a long magic loop edge will be too tight.
circular). The sleeves are shaped with decreases down
the underarm and are finished with a purl I-cord. FINISHING
Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Dampen garment,
Slip the held 56 (60, 62, 64, 70, 74, 78, 82) sleeve sts preferably from a spray bottle or soak in lukewarm
onto needle and also pick up and knit 8 (8, 10, 14, 14, water. Gently squeeze out excess water by rolling
16, 18, 20) sts in cast-on sts along underarm = 64 (68, sweater in a towel. Lay sweater flat to dry, patted out to
72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102) sts total. Pm at center of finished measurements.
underarm sts for beginning of rnd.
MEASUREMENTS SCHEMATIC
Knit around in stockinette for approx. 2½ (2½, 1½, 1½, A ≈ 34¾ (37¾, 41, 44, 48, 52, 56, 59¾) in / 88 (96, 104,
1½, 1½, 1½, 1½) in / 6 (6, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) cm. Now begin 112, 122, 132, 142, 152) cm
shaping sleeve as follows: B ≈ 33 (36¼, 39½, 42½, 46½, 50½, 54¼, 58¼) in / 84 (92,
Decrease Rnd: K1, k2tog, knit until 3 sts before marker, 100, 108, 118, 128, 138, 148) cm
ssk, k1 = 2 sts decreased. C ≈ 12¾ (13½, 14¼, 16½, 17¾, 17¾, 19, 20) in / 32 (34,
36, 42, 45, 45, 48, 51) cm
You will have worked a total of 9 (10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 16,
17) decrease rnds and decreased 18 (20, 22, 24, 28, 30,
32, 34) sts and 46 (48, 50, 54, 56, 60, 64, 68) sts remain.
© COPYRIGHT Nordanå Crafts AB. Reproduction and publication of materials and texts is not permitted without the consent of Nordanå Crafts AB.
Version 1
TIPS & SHORTCUTS
To avoid questions: Before you begin knitting, read through the pattern.
Stitch count: Always knit or crochet a gauge swatch as recommended in the pattern. If your stitch count doesn’t
match the gauge given in the pattern, try again with larger or smaller needles or hook. If your gauge doesn’t
match that in the pattern, your item will not be the correct size or shape.
Highlight the size you will knit or crochet throughout the pattern to make it easier to follow the instructions.
Charts: It will be easier to follow a chart if you mark your row with a ruler and magnetic board or sticky note.
Ease: The amount of ease included in our garments varies depending on the type and shape of the garment. To
determine the right size, we recommend that you first measure your body. Then you can calculate the garment
size depending on how much ease you want the garment to have. The schematics for each piece show all the
garment measurements.
Two-color stranded knitting: When knitting more than 3-4 stitches of the same color, twist the color strands around
each other on the wrong side to avoid long strands or “floats” on the back. If the yarns need to be twisted on several
rows/rounds, make sure you do not stack the twists in the same place to prevent the yarns from showing through on
the right side.
Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The colors may vary from
time to time. To get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two rows from one and two
rows from another skein.
ABBREVIATIONS
alt = alternately, approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, BOR = beginning of row/round,
cc = contrasting color, col = color, cont = continue, dec = decrease, EOR = end of row/round, fl = front loop,
inc = increase, m = marker, mm = millimeters, mc = main color, patt = pattern, pm = place marker, rep = repeat,
rnd(s) = round/rounds, RM = remove marker, RS = right side, sl = slip, sl m = slip marker, st(s) = stitches,
tog = together, WS = wrong side, yo = yarn over
KNITTING
BO = bind off, cn = cable needle, CO = cast on, dpn(s) = double-pointed needles, g st = garter stitch,
k1f&b = knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k = knit (stitch), k2tog = knit two stitches together, kw = knitwise,
LH = left hand needle, p = purl (stitch), pw = purlwise, RH = right hand needle, ssk = slip, slip, knit,
St st = stockinette/stocking stitch, wyib = with yarn in back, wyif = with yarn in front
CROCHETING
ch = chain stitch, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble crochet, hdc = half double crochet,
htr = half treble crochet, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, tr = treble crochet, tr tr = triple treble crochet
DIFFICULTY
Beginner: Anyone with no experience knitting/crocheting. Easy techniques and clear explanations.
Adventurous Beginner: For a beginner ready to take the next step. Clear explanations so you can try some new
techniques.
Intermediate: Anyone who has knitted/crocheted for a while but who wants a challenge. More advanced
techniques and two steps occur at the same time.
Experienced: For experienced knitters/crocheters who have already tried many techniques and methods.
Advanced/uncommon techniques and several steps occur simultaneously.
© COPYRIGHT Nordanå Crafts AB. Reproduction and publication of materials and texts is not permitted without the consent of Nordanå Crafts AB.
