Content

INTRODUCTION 1

BASIC SKILLS 4

BRUSHING 4
DEPRIVING THE PLANE 4
SHARP 5
PLANE ADJUSTMENT 8
HOW TO PLAN 11
DIRECTION AND LONGITUDE OF AIRPLANE 16
FINAL GRAIN 17
TWO BRUSHING EXERCISES 19
FACING 20
THE TESTS OF A TRUE FACE 20
BORDER 21
TESTS FOR A TRUE ADVANTAGE. 22
EDGE BRUSHING 23
TO MEASURE 24
CUSTOM MADE 26
SUMMARY 29
TO SQUARE 29
SAWING 31
SAWED BANK 32
TO SCREW 33
BORING 35

CHAPTER 2 39

MAKE A TABLE OR IN THE FECES 39

CONSTRUCTION AND DESIGN 39
DESIGN OUTLINE 39
WORK DRAWING 39
THE MARKING OF THE JOINTS 42
PICK MORTARS 47
SAWED SPIKES 49
MARK AND CUT NOTCH BUTTON 55
BRUSHING BRUSHES 56
INTERIOR POLISHED 57
GLUING 58
SUMMARY 59
TYPES OF GLUE 61
REQUEST 64
THE CLEANING OF THE OUTSIDE 64
THE SCRATCHER FURNITURE 66
UNION OF THE UPPER PART 70
DOWELLING THE EDGE JOINTS 74
THE CLEANING OF THE UPPER PART 75
THE SCRAPER PLAN 77
THE SHAPING OF THE TABLE SURFACE 81
EDGE FORMATION 84
THE SCRATCHING TOOL 85
CONTRACTION BUTTONS 87
FINISHES 90
WAX POLISHING 90
OIL FINISHES 91
POLYURETHANE VARNISHING 92
LACAS 93
PAINTING 93
LEVELING OF THE FEET 93

CHAPTER 3 96

CREATE A CHANNEL 96
CONSTRUCTION AND DESIGN 96
A channel 96
A MILAN TAIL CANAL 100
MARK AND CUT THE MILAN TAILS 105
MARK AND CUT THE BACK TAILS 111
SHELF 115
BACKS OF THE CABINET 118
THE GLUED CHANNEL 130
TYPES OF DOOR 134
DOOR FRAME 140
THE INSTALLATION OF A DOOR 148
HINGES OF A DOOR 152
BALL HOOKS 155
INSTALLATION LOCKS 156
CABINET BASES 159

CAPÍTULO 4 164

DRAWERS, HANDLES, AND BOXES 164

MAKING A BOX 164
METHOD OF DOING 167
DRAWER STRUCTURE 172
MANIJAS 174
BOX CONSTRUCTIONS 177
Box hinge 182
GLASS AND MIRRORS 186
SAWING JOINTS 188
THE SIERRARIPTENON 189
THE AGROOVEINGLETES TEMPLATE 190
TEMPLATE FOR GROOVING IN MESA SAW 191
COLAMITRED BOXES 193
THE TEMPLATE FOR THE KEY MITRE JOINTS 194
FINGER JOINTS TEMPLATE 196
CRAMPS SLIDING DRAWER 198
DECREASINGDOVETAILS 199
 Introduction
I can't remember not having some of the basic skills for woodworking. However,
many men, women, boys, and girls of all ages who are willing to make a start in the
woodworking, finding that a multitude of excellent books on the craft are required
very basic knowledge that they do not have.

This is really a pre-textbook. It is aimed mainly at those who work alone.

the apprentice has the guidance of a master craftsman, while the university student has mentors.
Aficionados often work in complete isolation, lacking this advantage. This book is expected to
will begin to withdraw deeply, so soon it will be able to make the most of good books
technicians; and if it is not the design of the original work, beginners will be competent to work in the books of
designs, drawings and magazine articles.

Unfortunately, as is the case with other trades, the initial skills required are the most
difficult to acquire. Brushing a flat surface, for a beginner, is much harder to cut.
a Milanese tail secret miter for a more experienced worker.

Necessary joints cannot be marked and later cut using rotated components, or
out of square and of uneven thickness. Precise smoothing is the foundation on which constructions are built
successful. It is not enough to observe a brush artisan and then try to copy him. He is not just standing next to
to a plane and moves backward and forward. It is necessary to realize that it is doing much more than
If the craftsman is not there to ask, the beginner must give a description of what they are doing and the
what it feels like. Unlike metal, wood is not uniform. Each piece is different, and this is where great
part of the attraction and charm of working with wood. Each piece requires individual attention and the
The worker is rewarded for the infinite variation of the granular structure and the final finish.

From observing many disasters of students in recent years, I have realized that
the lack of skill is the cause of very few of them. This is because, without being time for money,
Aficionados can proceed very slowly and with small steps, success is almost guaranteed.
They can, for example, examine the wood after almost every shave. In this way, it is practically
impossible smaller size airplane. The main causes of failure seem to be neglect and marked out
(often not even bothering to shade or indicate the defective waste) or otherwise tools
blunt: that extra turn of the adjustment screw of the plane, which translates into tearing from the dull cutter;
the additional force needed for a dull chisel with the consequent reduction of control, or the slow progress
Wandering from a Roman mountain. Therefore, before any activity, you can start the tools.
They must be prepared and well sharpened. Not having the workpiece securely is another one of the causes of
failure.

It was difficult to decide which of the constructions to include as 'basic'. In the end, I have selected the
joints and traditional constructions proven for the four basic forms of cabinetry. These
are the construction of a stool or a table, the construction of a channel or box, the door and the drawer. Almost all the
furniture is made up of these units in different combinations.

A series of small power tools are now available for the hobbyist. These have
several quite acceptable alternatives for traditional union have been made possible, and this book takes into account

1
them.

In recent years in British schools, we have seen the abandonment of '0' exams and
of level 'A' in woodworking craftsmanship and its replacement by the 'progressive' craftsmanship, design, and technology. In the
In the years following the war, fine woodworking is produced in many schools by well-trained teachers.
and endowed, especially for what was produced in the grammar schools that trained future teachers. For
unfortunate, the students now emerging from schools that choose work-based learning of the
Wood crafts are sadly deficient in basic skills. This book is expected to meet the
real needs of these people.

A pesar de de las tendencias no sexista en las escuelas es un hecho que las niñas surgen aún más
lacking in woodworking skills compared to children. Several women are interested in carpentry.
proven that they can do more than just maintain their position with men. I hope this book will fulfill that
empty and increase the confidence of girls and women.

Chapter 4, on the construction of the box, was written many years ago by my former tutor Cecil Gough.
which has generously allowed me to use it. Through the years, I have discovered that it cannot be improved.
successively. Part of the material that has previously appeared in abbreviated form in the magazine Carpenter.
the original editor of the book has kindly agreed to its inclusion.

I am indebted to the hundreds of students and learners I have worked with over many years.
that have drawn my attention, often without realizing it, the problems of the beginner. I hope I have resolved
a good proportion of them. Although I am sure that many readers will be able to enjoy the book in a
armchair next to the fire, its true place is resting on the bench like a score, and if it eventually falls
pieces will not have achieved their purpose.

Metric conversions are approximate, in rounded numbers, although where conversions are vital
they are exact.

The use of Robert

2
3
 Basic skills
Brushing
One cannot overstate the importance of good aircraft management. It was the plane that made it possible
the development from the carpenter, whose main tools were the axe, the adze, and the saw, to the
carpenter, cabinetmaker, armchair, musical instrument maker, and all those other wood craftsmen
that require produced components. To precise limits and with a fine finish.

The best brushing machine still needs a manual finish to eliminate the waves.
Despite the claims of machine manufacturers, sanding will never produce components of the size
it will not eliminate the tears caused by poor planning. It is equally wrong to think that the
Poor planning can be corrected by scraping. The latter is not only laborious both in work and in the
sharp, but in this way, really flat surfaces can never be produced. In summary, there is no
substitute for a well-sharpened and precisely adjusted hand plane.
Stripping the plane
To fully understand how the metal plane works, it is a good idea,
especially for the beginner, reduce the plane to its smallest component. If you have an old plane or
second-hand, this is a good opportunity to renew it. Even if the plane is poorly assembled and
out of adjustment, it cannot be harmed. Figure 1 shows the structure quite clearly and provides
the correct names for all the components. It will be seen that there are three different settings.

The cutting depth, that is to say, the thickness of the shaved material removed, is controlled by the wheel of
adjustment of the cutter. The wheel that raises and lowers on a thread to the left operates the lever and this in turn
it hooks onto the socket of the lever Y of the iron cover (or circuit breaker), which moves up or down
down. The blade is secured to the iron lid and is moved by it.

The second adjustment is lateral. The lateral lever has a circular pin at its end. When it ...
assemble the plan, you must ensure that this pin fits into the blade slot. The movement of the
The lever moves the cutting edge sideways, preventing a corner from sinking.

4
 The third adjustment is commonly called closing or opening the mouth. The whole frog moves forward with
the blade and the effect is to alter the size of the gap in front of the blade. The cap screw of the
the lever must be tight enough to hinder the lateral movement of the blade with the fingers,
but not impossible.
Sharp
Not all edge tools are suitable for use when they are new. They have been ground by the
manufacturers on a coarse wheel and require a better edge for use on wood. This is achieved by sharpening
(or sharpening) the tool on an oil stone (or nowadays a diamond hollow) that gives it a
much finer and sharper edge. A "fine" grade of artificial stone is suitable for general work.

Si se necesita un borde muy afilado, se puede utilizar una piedra natural mucho más costosa para el
finished.

The common grinding angle is 25° (Fig. 2). Generally, this angle is increased to 30° in the
oil stone. Figure 3 shows this on a wide chisel. For the beginner, there is no better way to
work with a sharpening guide like the Eclipse model (see photo 1). After a practice
considerable, some workers will do without this tool, but even for the most experienced, it still
being valuable for chisels and narrow blades, and when a flat straight and square cutter is required.

Secure the tool with the clamp, projecting the recommended distance; for this, a
small wood caliber (Fig. 4). Lightly grease the stone with a thin machine oil. Start
sharpen using the entire length of the stone and rubbing until the burr or edge of the wire forms
smaller across the entire width of the tool (Fig. 5). The wear of the stone can be extended
more evenly if the stone is in a non-orthodox case (Fig. 6). Remove it from the guide and place it
Plan on the stone in stages (Fig. 7). Keeping the tool dead flat, scrub the burrs, some
of which will remain. A few light blows alternately with the bezel facing up and down
They will remove most of the burrs. For a truly sharp edge, the process can be briefly repeated.
on a fine natural stone. I ended up stepping on a piece of thick leather glued to a strip of wood (Fig. 8)
and dressed with the best paste for grinding automobile valves. It cannot be emphasized enough that the side
The tool's plane must remain completely flat, without any trace of a bevel on this flat side.

5
 The pattern cutters require a slight modification. The cat pattern cutter requires a
slight curvature across the entire width (1-1.5 mm (1/16in.) is correct). The leveling plane is practically not
requires curvature, but the corners must be slightly rounded (Fig. 9) to prevent them from 'sinking'.
This is achieved during sharpening by applying a little more pressure with the fingers on each corner.

There is a life cycle of the cutting edge of a tool (Fig. 10). Each time it is sharpened, the bevel of the
oil stone becomes larger and the angle less acute. After a while, there is so much metal that
eliminate that the sharpening process becomes uncomfortably long and the angle is considerably more than
30 °. Now is the time to sharpen the tool and start over. Grinding again to
25 ° can be carried out on a vertical natural stone that is cooled with water, a stone horizontally.
cooled with oil or a high-speed carborundum wheel. In the case of the latter, it must be taken into account
Be very careful, frequently submerging in water, so as not to overheat the edge and thus destroy its hardness.

After re-adjusting, the size of the oil stone bezel should be reduced to a minimum to
save sharpening time and metal.

6
7
 Adjustment of the aircraft

A metal plan must be carefully adjusted at the beginning of each work session and each time.
The blade is sharpened. Before adjusting the plane itself, the iron cap or switch must be adjusted. This is
will be discussed in more detail later, but for the general work, the iron cap must be placed at
approximately 1 mm (1 / 16in.) from the cutting edge. With the iron cover properly secured, it can be
make the main adjustment. For this, a piece of soft, light-colored softwood is needed, approximately
13 mm (1/2 inch) thick. This is held up in the vice.

Look down at the sole of the plane (see photograph 2). It helps to have a piece of white paper on the bench.
to see. To observe

The edge (Fig. 11) and, using the side lever, adjust the blade until it appears symmetrical (Fig. 12).
This is only a temporary adjustment. Next, using the cutter adjustment wheel, remove
completely the blade. Now begin to plane on the softwood strip. Nothing will happen. Take the relay
and slowly increase the cut, still brushing. When the first very fine shave appears, stop. Observe
this shaving with great care; it must come from the center of the blade, the two corners of the blade do not
They should cut. If a corner is cutting, slightly move the side lever in the direction of the cutting corner.
having first taken the slack. Continue this way until only the center cuts.

This lateral adjustment is what beginners often find most difficult.

Adjusting the cut is quite simple. To increase the cut, turn to the right. To decrease the
cut, turn counterclockwise and then clockwise, enough
to compensate for the slack in the mechanism. If it does not loosen, the blade will slowly retract during the
brushing. Don't take a cut that is too heavy; two light cuts are always easier than one heavy one, and
When extra force is used, precision is sacrificed.

8
 The final adjustment is the mouth size (Fig 13). Two locking screws of the frog (A) are loosened and the
the adjustment screw of the frog (B) moves back or forward. Unfortunately, this can alter
the lateral adjustment that needs to be done again. The purpose of this adjustment is to prevent 'breakage'.

9
 There are five remedies for tearing:

Invert the glide slope.

2. Sharpen the blade.

Make a very fine cut.

4. Adjust the iron lid very close.

Shut your mouth.

Any of these or a combination of any of them will prevent tearing. On the other hand, a lid
iron too close and a mouth too fine will cause 'obstructions'. It is always worth examining
the mouth, as it may be malformed or obstructed by a paint stain, which can be removed with a
soft shavings.

10
 How to plan
Planning is not a difficult technique and, like swimming, once you learn it, you never forget it. However,
It is not enough to see someone plan and try to copy what they do. The beginner needs to know what is being
trying and how it is being achieved.

Start using a very sharp cutter, carefully adjusted as just described.

Take a piece of soft wood without knots, approximately 25 mm (1 inch) thick and
approximately 300 mm (12 in.) long and hold it by the edge.

Now stand correctly (see photograph 3). The left foot must be perpendicular to
below the near edge of the work. It should be at an angle of approximately 45° to the front.
from the bank. The right foot will be positioned at a convenient distance, more or less at a right angle to the
bank (Fig. 14).

Before trying to plan, place the front of the plane to work. This is vital. The flat jack
it has a quite large sole piece in front of the mouth. This must feel well established in
firm contact with the work. Next, feel the capture of the blade; to do this, move
gently push the plane forward until you can feel the blade touching the wood.

Now push forward constantly. Do not disturb the 'settled' front. To a beginner or a
it will be helpful for the child to keep the right elbow tucked in and push with a body movement, like
I would do it if I tried to push the bank. When more skill has been developed, more than one can be used.
arm movement. This brushing method with the bent arm will continue to be useful for a large
precision and when the wood is unusually hard. It is particularly difficult to maintain downward pressure
necessary when the plane is within arm's reach.

11
 The correct downward pressure is of great importance for successful planning. At the beginning of the
race, there is a strong pressure from the left hand on the button (Fig. 15), while the right hand on the
mango pushes forward. In the middle of the race, the pressure is equal on both hands. At the end of the
race, the positions are reversed, to prevent the plane from going off the end. Now the front knob
provides forward movement while the handle exerts downward pressure. Practice this, with
the goal of producing full-length, full-width chips. Remember that two thin chips are
easier to push than a thick one. Stay shaved for all early practices.

12
13
 These instructions will naturally revert for left-handed readers, who should place the vice in
the opposite end of the bench. Any indecisive reader about whether to work with the left hand or with the
my right hand must conform to the work with the right hand, as specialized aircraft
They will find at a later stage that it is not possible to work conveniently with the left hand.

The friction of a steel surface is considerably greater than that of a wooden surface.
consequently, some form of lubrication is needed to reduce the required effort. This commonly
takes the shape of a candle stub, although a better method is to use an oil pad (Fig. 16). This
no solo no se pierde ni se pisa, sino que también sirve como lugar de estacionamiento seguro cuando el avión
it is not in use, as it lubricates the sole and protects the edge from damage. The old popular custom of placing the
The airplane on its side dates back to the days of wooden airplanes with wedges powered by a hammer. To make
this with modern metal planes tends to alter the carefully adjusted lateral fit.

14
15
 Make the oil pad by sticking a strip of carpet to a wooden base. Do not use rugs.
with a rubber backing. It is dressed with a fine oil machine. Once the pad is in condition,
a sheet of paper that passes through it must be a little dirty. Too much oil will mark the wood as well.
It will collect a lot of dirt and dust from the workshop. A hanging hole completes the job.
Aircraft heading and longitude
"Against the grain" is an expression that is commonly used but that few woodworkers...
they understand, all of whom have experienced the tearing of wood to produce a poor finish in
place to cut with sweetness. If you imagine that the wood construction is like a bundle of straws for
drinking, usually at a slight angle (Fig. 17), it will be clear that a stroke made in the direction of B
it will cut cleanly when sharpening a pencil, while a cut in the direction of A will cause the straws to
Break before the cut. Try sharpening a pencil this way with the pencil held in the vice.

An indication of how the fibers are arranged is given by the grain pattern on the sides.
(Fig. 18). Observe this pattern and the 'uphill' plane. Often, the grain pattern is horizontal (Fig. 19)
and, in this case, brushing can be done in any way. The more pronounced the angle, the more
it is necessary to plan uphill. Sometimes the pattern is reversed (fig 20). This is called 'granulation' and is
They must take additional measures to address this (see 'Healing for Tears', p. 19).

Although the grain pattern on the side is not an infallible guide, it is generally correct.

Planing a flat surface with a carpenter's plane is theoretically impossible. It could only be done
to do if the plane had a movable sole in front of the mouth (Fig. 21) in the manner of a planing machine.
The cutter would align exactly with the main back sole. The front sole would be lifted by the
thickness of the cut. Such an aircraft would be extremely expensive to produce. As it is, we have a plan as shown in Fig.
22. The front tip, the blade, and the rear tip are marked respectively with A, B, and C. It is
a fact of geometry that only one circle will pass through points A, B, and C, thus, again in theory, the plane
it is designed to plan a shallow curve. From this, it follows that the longer the plane, the more
here is the curve of a straight line (Fig. 23).

When components are produced for sizing, the Jack plan is used. For greater precision, when
plan edge meetings on tables, the test plan that is much longer is used. When we are only
cleaning before polishing, and no great precision is required, the shortest leveling plane allows for work
in a small area without having to plan a much larger area to eliminate a stain.

16
 This apparent disadvantage is used in the preparation of the true face. Particularly when a
beginner tries to make a direct approach, there is a good chance that the work will be rounded off, which is
high in the middle. By deliberately planning the gap and then planning to achieve a complete shave,
a great precision can be achieved.
Final grain
Sanding the final grain presents problems for the unwary. If the end of a board is what it is
sufficiently wide to establish a plane is planned through it, the final fibers will separate
inevitably, and it will divide more with each blow. This is called 'spelching' (Fig 24). Fortunately,
there are three possible remedies for this, with the most convenient being the one chosen for the circumstances
particulars.

The table can be planned towards the center in both directions (Fig. 25). If the final grain is polished and
Yes, brushing in both directions can sometimes produce two different tones or textures with a clear.
union among them. This is avoided (Fig. 26) by chiseling the farthest corner, so a certain amount is required.
minimum waste for this (Fig. 27a or b). In order to ensure an adequate amount of waste, sometimes
It is advisable to plan both ends to the length before finally planning to the width.

If this is not feasible, a block can be glued at the end, sometimes with a paper joint, and the angle is
it can be cut in the same way (Fig. 28). With foresight, this can be done late at night to
avoid a long wait. Alternatively, the block can be temporarily held in place with a
leaf cramp.

17
18
 All finishing brushes need a specially sharpened and finely adjusted blade.
well-lubricated sole and a lot of pressure downwards.

Two brushing exercises

The objective of the following exercises is to produce full-length, full-width chips.
the first exercise will show if the reader is achieving this objective.

Clamping in the vise, with the edge facing up, a piece of light softwood about
300 x 75 x 25 mm (12 x 3 x 1 in.). With a soft pencil, a woodworker draws a line along the
medium (Fig 29). The use of an acute plane, well adapted, the full length plane A, the shaving of
full width. The pencil mark must be completely removed. Mark the wood with the pencil and the
new plan, repeat this operation for ten shavings. If a trace of the pencil mark remains,
start counting again. After ten successful attempts, take a brief break before cutting another
ten. This is the brushing technique when the wood is narrower than the plane.

When the wood is wider than the plane, the technique has been modified as follows. Adherence in the
bench vice a similar piece of wood about 75 mm (3 inches) wide. Clean the dirt and the
roughness of one of the wide surfaces and draw three pencil lines on it (Fig 30). Continue with the
plan that before, in groups of three shavings, either from the left side, right side, and the center or towards the
left, center, right. After three cuts, if all trace of the pencil mark has gone, the score
It is one. Continue in groups of three, as before up to ten. Start again if a pencil mark remains.
It is not necessary to remove a line with each cut, but after three cuts all the lines must have been removed.
missing. Repeat as before for a second group of ten.

If the wood is even wider, a group of four, five, or more cuts will be necessary. The important thing
brushing must be regular and constant. Random brushing over the board will never produce a
flat surface.

19
 In front of

Just as a building requires a true and accurate foundation from which everything can be taken
The subsequent measurements, each piece of wood requires a precise surface from which the sizes and
angles can be taken later. This is known as the true face (often referred to as
confusedly the "side of the face"). There is a simple method to obtain the true face, which can be
test on a piece of softwood approximately 300 x 75 x 25 mm (12 x 3 x 1 in.).

Hold the wood in the vise and remove the dirt and roughness from one large side (Fig 31). Resist the
temptation to clean all sides: it may look good, but there is a good chance of ending up underneath
of the required size. Now make a thick and soft pencil mark at each end (Fig. 32). With a plane
fine-tuning try to plan the hollow piece. That is, start the cut just inside the first mark of
pencil and lift it just before the second. Continue this process with fine adjustments until the plane no longer
cut. The defect will be shown by the removal of a pencil mark. If this happens, replace the mark and
continue.

When the plane no longer cuts, glide the wood from end to end. The first cut will remove a small
shaving at each end and the subsequent chips will enlarge. When a shaving has occurred
full length, stop and check the accuracy (Fig. 33). Naturally, if the workpiece is wider
that the plan, groups of cuts will be taken this way.
The tests of a true face
There are three tests for a true face:

1. Is the work flat in length? Perform the test with a steel or wooden ruler that must be more
longer than the work (Fig. 34).

2. Is the work flat in width? Test in several places with a ruler (Fig 35).

3. Is the work 'in the wind' (that is, twisted)? 'Wind' is pronounced like in 'to wind a clock'
or "on a winding road". Test it with a couple of winding strips. Place a winding strip.
at each end, take a couple of steps back and then look over the top of the strips of
enrollment. These increases and a small error will be revealed (Fig 36).

20
 The true edge (sometimes called the 'face edge') is the next important stage in production
of custom material. The already faced work is kept with the edge flaw facing up and preferably
with the true face outward (Fig. 38). The latter will depend, of course, on how the grain runs. The
the process is similar to that of confrontation. Clean the dirt and roughness of the edge where it is located
the face mark. Make a strong pencil mark at each end (Fig. 39). Flat as before for
hollow out the workpiece between the marks, continuing until the plane no longer cuts. Now make a plane.
recto, stopping when the first complete length and width shave occurs (Fig. 40).
Tests for a true advantage.
Is the work flat in length? Test with a ruler longer than the work (Fig. 41).

2. Is the work flat in width? Test it with a ruler; If the last shave was full width,
the work will be done in a flat width automatically (Fig 42).

3. Is the edge square (i.e., at 90°) to the true face? Test with a try square in various places.
(Fig 43).

22
 Correct where necessary and mark with a 'v' pointing to the true face (Fig. 44). Often
a cross is used that is not very useful. If the face mark is lost, the 'vee' indicates which side it was on. If the
the edge mark is lost, the face mark does the same.

Edge brushing
When the quadrature test has been carried out (Fig. 45), it is more than likely that one side of the wood
be higher than the other. The obvious remedy seems to be to tilt the airplane. However, this will only produce a
the second surface (Fig. 46), which makes it even more difficult to settle the plane. It was previously said that
The cat's blade is sharpened to a curve, and now this will be utilized. With the plane correctly adjusted (Fig.
47), a shaving cut in the center of the plane will have the same thickness across its entire width. A shaving cut
Near the edge of the wing, it will have a thick side and a thin side; the latter will virtually reduce to
nothing. Place the plan on the workpiece (Fig 48). The successive chips cut this way will reduce
gradually the high side to the square. The last shave should be cut using the center of the blade.

In order for the airplane not to move sideways during the run, the normal grip is replaced by the
I grabbed the edge. The left hand no longer holds the front knob, but instead supports the sole just behind
she with the thumb and the index finger. The finger acts as a barrier that prevents lateral movement (see
photographs 8 and 9). This is the standard method for accurately planning all the edges.

23
 Measure
Calibrating is the process of marking parallel lines that will then be cut or planed. There is no
substitute for the gauge when producing components of precise size. There are two basic principles of
fore. One is that the pointer must 'drag'. The other is that almost all pressure must be directed by the
search, towards the wood.

To learn to measure, first place a length of wood in the vice, projecting about 50 mm (2
(pulg.). Adjust the gauge to approximately the required size and tighten the screw only by hand, adjust to
correct size by hitting one of the ends of the stem at the top of the bench and then tighten the
completely screw. The gauge head is pushed with the thumb and held with the index finger.
The other fingers wrap around the stem. The caliber is applied to the work on the flat side of the shank, the
The pointer is well cleared and the guide pushed against the true face or edge. The indicator is turned.
slowly (Fig. 49) until the pointer just touches the wood and the pressure is taken at the corner of
stem. Keep this angle and strike, with the pointer back and the guide firmly pressed in
the work.

24
 Repeat at the end, the other long side and the other end. Always measure from the face or the edge.
true. If you have any doubts, shade the waste diagonally with a soft pencil.

Skilled workers will be seen holding the work by hand in a variety of ways.
Peculiar. Beginners should use the vice whenever possible, learning first.
simply to evaluate, and then, when they are competent, they can try different ways of holding.

25
 Narrow and thin pieces are best measured in the vise as follows. Grip the wood by
one end, with the true face (or true edge) facing outwards, and calibrate until the indicator touches
the screw (Fig. 50). Slide through the screw to the position of Fig. 51 and complete. Left-handed people
They will find it convenient to invest the stock and thus avoid having to push with the thumb against the screw.

When teaching children, a useful method is for the teacher to calculate a line and then ask the
students who do ten more. Success is judged when the teacher's original line is indistinguishable from the rest.
Many workers, especially beginners, will find that calibration is easier if the hole
For the calibration point, it is drilled at a slight angle to enhance the 'drag' effect described (Fig.
52).

To finalize a caliber mark on a precise line and, therefore, it is not displayed in the work.
finished, firmly stab the tip at the finishing line (Fig. 53). This small hole will indicate
clearly the end of the measurement. Use the same method for the double point notch gauge
(considered later).

Made to measure
Before any dialing can begin, the components must be brought together accurately.
identically when necessary) so that they have the appropriate size.

Each component is first given a true face and a true edge, leaving two sides intact.
(Fig. 54).

Adjust the gauge to the required width and, working from the true edge, gauge the piece in four.
sides (Fig. 55). If a soft and thick carpenter's pencil is run along the measurement line, two marks will be made.
(Fig. 56). Move to the center of the 'vee' groove made by the gauge, thereby eliminating one of the two marks.
pencil. After a little practice, one can do without the pencil mark. It is possible to plan ahead.
down to the line around the edges, but remain high in the center; to verify this problem,
apply a rule or ruler (Fig. 57). This process has produced three worked surfaces. The same process
it repeats after measuring the thickness. It doesn't matter if the width or the thickness is produced first. Often, when
plan across first on a narrow edge, a significantly wider surface is available.
to plan to thickness. When a large amount needs to be removed, cut as much as possible first. Not
I am bothered by the somewhat messy appearance of three of the corners (Fig. 58).

26
27
 While there are traces of the caliber mark, the component cannot be smaller in size. In a
real work, this would disappear in the final cleaning before polishing.

Beginners sometimes think that they will save time by doing the two calibrators first, followed by
for both polished surfaces, particularly when the width and thickness are the same size. The reflection causes that
It is obvious that when planning at mark A (Fig. 59), the mark from meter B will be removed. This will have to be done again.
to calibrate itself, which means it will lose more time than expected to save.

28
 Summary
Make a true face.
2. Make a real advantage.
Caliber to width.
4. Plan to width.
5. Calibrate to thickness.

6. Plan to thickness.
It is equally suitable to do 5 and 6 before 3 and 4.
To square
The lines at right angles (across the grain) are marked with the test square with a pencil, a
pen or a knife to mark. A precise marking cannot be made until it has occurred and
marked as such a face and a true edge.

The cardinal rule is that the stock of the square must be against the true face or edge (Fig. 60).
This gives eight possible positions. It doesn't matter whether the sheet rests on a true surface or not. It must
use the full width of the material (Fig. 60), not just a part (Fig. 61), as this may cause
imprecisions. If this rule is observed, the lines will eventually meet (Fig. 62 A); if not, it will result in a
propeller (Fig. 62 B) and the lines will never meet unless (and this cannot be assumed in manual work)
the opposite sides are perfectly parallel. When observing the ruler, the lines will always meet,
even if the sides are not parallel, and even if the square is slightly out of true.

By using a knife, time can be saved and precision improved by using the following simple technique.
Mark the first line, turn the wood, place the blade edge at the cut of the blade (Fig. 63) and
deslice el cuadrado hacia arriba. La escuadra puede volverse incorrecta por el uso del cuchillo (Fig. 64), así
that I check this periodically. The accuracy of the square also requires occasional review. Plan

29
a true edge on a wide table, preferably by machine, make a line, invert the square and
repeat (Fig. 65); Any mistake will be evident.

Angles other than 90° can be marked and repeated as often as needed by interposing.
a conical block between the work and the square (Fig. 66). This is much more reliable than standard practice
to use the sliding bezel that can be easily removed from the position. Shade the waste after
square off.

The marking knife deserves a moment of consideration. As sold, it often has a

curved bevel on both sides of the blade (Fig. 67 A). This must be ground with the bevel on only one side
(Fig. 67 B). (Of course, left-handed people grind the blade on the other side). The knife is held like a pen,
instead of like a dagger, and only the tip is used; Do not attempt to use the whole edge. The bevel should be kept away.
from the test square, with a vertical cut on the work side and a slope on the waste side. From
All the edge tools, this is the most neglected when it comes to sharpening. It is essential.
keep it sharp.

30
 The knife with a wooden handle is preferable to the combined knife and awl, especially for
children. Facial injuries can result from a long out-of-focus peak when the user is
focus on the cut.
sawdust
This is the final skill that the beginner needs to acquire to produce the component to size.
final required. It is also necessary to cut the component to approximate the size at the beginning
stages.

The 250 mm (10 in.) tenon saw is a convenient size. The work is carried out on a bench.
of section (see Appendix A). There are three types of cross sections that, for convenience, can be called
third class cuts, second class cuts, and first class cuts, according to the importance of the cut.

The third class is for the early stages and for relatively unimportant work. Mark the
cut line with pencil and shade the waste. Place the saw up to the line in the farthest corner, but
in the trash. Place the thumb of your left hand against the saw and pull back half a dozen times
Remove the thumb, step back from the work, and keep the wood steady by resting your palm on it.
the hand. This provides a much firmer grip than the grip between the thumb and fingers. Now
start cutting, gently lower the handle to allow the saw cut to slide slowly to
through the surface of the wood (Fig. 69) until there is a saw cut 'kerf' across the entire width of the
work. Then I looked down at the sawing table (which is dispensable).

31
 The second class sawing is more precise. This time mark the cutting line with the marking knife.
and the test square (Fig. 70) and shade the residues. The knife cuts the fibers and gives it a better finish
at the upper edge of the cut. Hold the work in the vice and chisel a small notch in the shape of a 'v' in the
farthest corner (Fig. 71). The cut is vertical on the work side and inclined on the waste side.

Hold the piece firmly, or better yet, cut it on a sawing board. Place the saw on the
groove, retreat a few times and then saw, again lowering the handle slowly (Fig. 72), until
let the saw cut all the width. He saw through the sawing board.

First-class sawing is used for all truly important jobs, in particular the
shoulders of the joint of the notch and the tenon, and the precise work will have already been marked with the knife.
Deepen the knife cut across the width of the piece. Holding it in the vise, chisel a groove.
not too deep (Fig. 73). This should be chiseled with a wide chisel using small cuts for the
that no significant force is needed.

Clamp firmly to prevent it from moving during sawing, preferably on a piece of

wood or hardboards. Place the saw in the groove, pull back a few times and then saw (Fig. 74).

Sawed bench
It goes without saying that the saw must be sharp and straight. A saw with a buckle will never cut a line.
straight line, naturally you will want to produce your own curve. Your posture is also important. Leaning over the
work is not conducive to a good cut. Stay away, with the left arm straight, holding the
I work pressing with the palm instead of using a grip with my fingers.

32
 Some sawtooth mangoes are not, as it may seem, designed for children. Only three fingers fit.
inside the handle; the index finger should point along, which helps keep the saw on track
Correct. The doll must remain rigid, avoiding any movement of the saw away from the vertical.
This is particularly important if the saw is large and wide. With a rigid wrist, the pivots must
be the elbow and the shoulder. A sharp saw requires little downward pressure beyond its own weight, and
just a light pressure while cutting, producing a soft and rhythmic impact using the entire length of the blade.

Two points are important when sawing. The lines across the grain that are to be cut must be marked.
with the knife. Unlike the pencil, the line of the knife has zero thickness. A chisel can be placed
precisely at this mark if necessary, with no possibility of error. Additionally, the knife cuts the fibers of
clean shape, which gives a well-fitted appearance to a joint. The trash is shaded, not to
to prevent work from being discarded and waste from being preserved, but rather to prevent the size from being reduced
work. Unlike the knife that cuts without waste, the saw removes the sawdust. This dust must
coming from the garbage, not from work, hence the slogan to saw: 'up to the line, but in the garbage.'
To screw
This is one of the most common methods for joining components. It is interesting that, while the
British people use the name 'turn screw', the American term is 'screwdriver'. This is important
because a properly placed screw should not have to be actuated, which implies hard work, but rather
just a turn.

The screw has the following parts (Fig. 75): the head, the shaft, the core, and the thread, and they must be
take precautions for each of them when drilling the hole, since the screw, unlike the drill, does not
you cannot remove any wood. A standard screwed job (Fig. 76) is a piece screwed directly
to another and Fig. 77 shows a section through the joint. The upper piece needs a separation hole
made with a torque drill, in which the shaft can rotate freely. If this is too small,
It will require much more effort and the screw slot could be damaged, or the work could be split if the

33
The hole is close to the edge. The top piece may require countersinking. The right tool for this
it is the snail head drill, but as an alternative, you can use the rose drill or the drill.
78); however, this is inferior, being primarily designed for metal. A drill can be used
greater torque, and this is more successful when used on a drilling machine with a stop of
depth.

The pieces can now be held in position with the screw in place. A light tap
the screw will leave a dent in the lower piece where the next hole can be drilled. This is the
pilot hole and its diameter is that of the screw's core. The principle is that the drill leaves space for the
the core of the screw and the thread adheres to the sides of the hole, providing the greatest resistance with the minimum
effort.

The tip of the screwdriver must be well maintained and the blade should fit into the slot. If left
rounding, it will slide. A blade that is too large will damage the wood, a blade that is too small
it is likely to slip out of the slot. The handles are made in proportion to the size of the blade to exert
the correct pressure. Long and thin electric screwdrivers must be used with special care to
prevent the thread from tearing in the wood.

Figure 80 shows alternative screw heads. The round head is commonly used for
secure accessories. If these are very thin, a shallow hole will be required for the stem beforehand.
to drill the pilot hole. The raised head is sometimes used in metal fittings, and is used more
commonly in the industry. It can be conveniently used by the artisan together with the washer
of the screw thread when the plywood is screwed. The nature of the plywood and, sometimes, its thinness
makes it difficult to carefully countersink for a screw head.

For very small screws, a four-sided punch is more convenient for the pilot hole. A
a touch of grease on a screw allows it to enter more easily and by preventing oxidation, it also facilitates the
post-extraction. Eventually, the oak has a corrosive effect on iron screws, so

34
High-quality brass screws should always be used.

Bored
The manufacturing of holes with the clamp and the drill is still very common, despite the profusion
of electric drills. The drill is really a metal.

The worker's tool and its cutting action are designed accordingly. It has a shank.
round that is held in the three-jaw chuck of the manual or electric drill (Fig. 81). The main use
the twist drill is for making screw holes, having replaced the set of punches and
gimlets that previously did this work.

The woodworker's clamp generally has only two jaws and the drill is equipped.
from a square stem (Fig. 82) to fit into a square socket at the base of the chuck.

Although there is a wide variety of bits, most commonly used ones fit a pattern.
whose central bit (Fig. 83) is the simplest. They all have a square shank to fit the clamp,
a sharp point to start with precision, a spur or a hammer to cut the fibers and a router or
cutter to eliminate waste.

When drilling shallow holes, the best tool is the basic center drill (see
photograph 11). Hold the work vertically in the vice and apply moderate pressure until
reach the point (Fig 84). Then, reverse the work and drill from the other side, meeting in
some place in the middle (Fig. 85) (the joint will always be slightly perceptible); or invert the wood, mark
a circle with the spur and continue drilling from the first side. This joint, which is near the edge
(Fig. 86), is not as remarkable. Boring directly into a piece of wood is probably the easiest and
fast.

35
 The deepest holes are bored with the rotary drill (see photograph 12), or its shorter version,
the bit. This bit also has a needle point with a screw to apply pressure, two stirrups and
two routers. In a deep hole (Fig. 87), where the central drill would wander to one side, the spiral of
the twisted bit, while avoiding this tendency, also acts as a lift to remove the chips.
Clockwise rotation causes shavings to appear, counterclockwise rotation
counterclockwise sends them downwards. When the required depth is reached (this is
puede marcar con un trozo de cinta adhesiva en la broca), gire la abrazadera hacia adelante y hacia atrás para
break the thread in the wood. Then, turning clockwise, pull the drill to remove
all the waste and leave a transparent hole. To ensure correct alignment when drilling holes
Deep, sometimes it is advisable to place a strip to the work (Fig. 88) and look against this.

36
 The growing popularity of small manual electric drills has in turn led to the development
a special drill to use with them (Fig. 89). This is the flat drill, which is used at high speed and
it has a scraping action instead of a cutting action. Threaded tip drills cannot be used
in an electric drill due to its speed.

37
38
 Chapter 2
Make a table or in the feces
Construction and design
Design summary: before starting any design that is not a copy, a preparation must be made.
design summary. A design summary is a compilation of all relevant data for the
construction and the use of the article, and the design is based on this information. The summary can be produced better
writing as many questions as possible about work, and then, by experiment, research,
measurement or judgment, find the answers to these questions. For example, the questions about a table of
cafés may include the following:

Where will it be used?

Who will use it?

How many people will use it? What will it carry?

How will people sit on that? What will its upper shape be? How tall will it be?

What will its basic construction form be? What will the finish be?

What wood is preferred or available? Will the top have any special finish?

Is a shelf or a shelf necessary?

Design outline
The answers to these practical questions will give the worker the length, width, and height.
Required. From these three figures, several design sketches can be produced and the best selected.
(Fig. 90, for example).
Work drawing
From the design sketch it will now be possible to create a working drawing. For items of size
From a coffee table, a full-size drawing is an advantage; Of course, larger items
They must be drawn to scale. These full-size drawings can be drawn on 'lining' paper.
(ceiling) of the decorator. Before starting, the following table of 'finished sizes' should be consulted (Fig
91).

39
 The sawn sizes are those used by shipyards to saw logs into boards. The sizes
finishes are those in which the sawn boards can be planed, either by hand or by machine. This
the figure is both the maximum that can be obtained from the sawn board and the size marketed as board
planned. When planning the sizes of the components, these sizes must be taken into account for use
the wood with the greatest possible economy. A reduction in thickness of 1 mm (1/16 in.) can provide
considerable cost savings.

The working drawing (side view) (Fig. 92) is constructed as follows. Draw the baseline
(A) and then draw the top of the table (B).

Consult the finished sizes and draw in the top thickness (C). Mark this at the length (D).
Consider the eave and draw on the outer edge of the legs (E). Check the finished sizes again.
and drew the thickness of the leg (F). The upper rail (G) is drawn next, wide enough to
to give a good joint, but not too wide. This can be made narrower if the
additional support of a stretcher rail. The final view (width) can be drawn similarly. To save
space, this can overlap in the front view (shaded area).

When a proper mortise and tenon joint is going to be used (as in this example),
Now the length of the spike must be determined. This is done easily (Fig. 93) by making a drawing of
full size on graph paper. Finally, the inner edges of the legs can be narrowed.
Below the joint. This design maintains the simplicity of a right-angle construction.

40
 To avoid frequent reference to a drawing in the early stages, it is advisable to produce a list.
of cutting (Fig. 94) and work only from this in the early stages.

The finished sizes (i.e., final) are used in the list, which prevents permissions from being added.
in various stages of work. Unfortunately, although there are only three dimensions, there are many more names
for them, for example. length, height, width, depth, breadth, thickness, and so on. The three
that will be used are the length (the distance along the grain), the thickness (the smallest dimension) and the
width (the intermediate size). The width and thickness are often the same size.

To avoid confusion, the components often have letters, like in the first column. The columns
the remaining ones explain themselves, except for the one that is blank. A mark here means that the component
It has been cut. A cross indicates that the piece has been made to measure and is ready to be marked.

41
 The marking of the joints
On a table or stool structure, the legs or rails can be marked first. This example
start with the rails. Press together the long and short pairs, with the true faces facing out and the
true edges downward. Mark each end with a knife and a square (Fig 96). Then separate
the pairs, square the lines (Fig. 97) and carefully cut the waste. It is important to see this cleanly for
you can calibrate the end better later. First, calibrate the setting to approximately 3 mm (1/8 in.), and then
the hip (Fig. 98). The adjustment is purely cosmetic, to hide any irregularities in the joint.
The hip provides a bridge at the top of the leg, which helps prevent the notch from
breaks and, at the same time, through its width added to the spike, which reduces the possibility that the
rail bends at the leg. The hip should be approximately one quarter of the width of the shank. Some
Writers will say a third, but this seems to overly reduce ownership.

42
 To mark the legs, bring them together with the faces and edges as shown (Fig. 99), then rotate them and
mark them on a blank side. Mark the total length, leaving some residue (which must be
shadowed) at each end. The residues should be about 20 mm (3/4in.) at the top or on the
articulated extreme. Offer the rail and, from it, mark the width, the adjustment, and the width of the rail (Fig. 100), align
these and separate them.

Square these lines on the other blank side. The lines of total length are squared towards the
right (Fig. 101).

43
 The thickness of a spike is normally about one third of the thickness of the rail. It is not taken from the
measure, but it is the size of the nearest available chisel to this size. The traditional chisels of the
my hands vary considerably from the nominal size. The machine chisels are quite precise and now
They are becoming metric. The hand chisels are much thicker than the firmer chisel or of
bank (Fig. 102), which is very likely to break when levered. The additional thickness of the mortise chisel
it also helps to prevent twisting.

Carefully place the notch gauge on the chisel (Fig 103) and then position it in
the rail, generally in the center. Without changing the configuration, mark the mortics on the legs (Fig. 104),
measuring from the face and the true edge. Mark the spindles similarly, measuring from the face
true.

44
45
46
 Beginners will find it useful later, when cutting the spikes, if a thick pencil is used.
gentle on the control marks. This produces a double pencil mark (Fig 105). The residues must be
clearly marked with pencil, usually with diagonal shading. (The method adopted in the
Illustrations aim to avoid confusion with the final grain, and it is not typical.

Note: it is a good idea to number the meetings to avoid confusion. This should be done in parts that do not
be involved in the cleaning process.
Chop mortars
The stalks must be cut before cutting the ears, as the latter are more prone to suffer.
accidental damage before assembly. It is not good practice to take the work in the vice because
then it cannot be proven verticality, and if it is reduced in vice during the process, it can be classified.
Instead, place the work in a separation block (Fig. 106a) with G-clamps or hand screws.
The block can be held in the vice (Fig. 106b) or screwed to the bench (Fig. 106c). This method is
particularly useful when the bank has a front apron that prevents cramps. The separation block
It is useful when the workpiece is small and thin.

Figure 107a shows how a shallow trench can be cut before starting the mortise.
properly speaking. Simply press the chisel until there is a crack, then pass the chisel (Fig. 107b)
removing the small shavings. The chisel can now be placed effortlessly. Before starting to cut,
place a depth mark on the chisel (a piece of tape will work). If two need to be cut
mortises (Fig. 108), two depth marks are required (Fig. 109). Do not cut the first mortise to the
total depth or the second will be cut in a hole and the inner corner could break from a distance (fig.
The first mortise should be cut to a reduced depth (Fig. 111), then the second to depth
complete, thereby avoiding this risk.

47
48
 After securely tightening the work in the block, drive the chisel close to a
edge of the shroud, beveling towards the center (Fig 112). Check that it is vertical by placing a small
rule against the true face (Fig. 113); a longer rule will dirty the handle. Remove the chisel, turn it and
Drive again with the bezel towards the hole. Push forward to break the chip, then lift it.
Continue with the input sequence (Fig. 114), break the chip (Fig. 115) and then pull out (Fig. 116).
Continue almost to the end of the shroud, leaving a small piece of waste on which to leverage.
Frequently check that the chisel is vertical. Turn the chisel around and proceed to the other end. Continue the
backward and forward method until full depth has been reached (Fig 117).
Finally, cut the ends at the knife marks, break and remove the chip without damaging the ends.

The accuracy of the depth can be tested using an adjustable depth gauge or one
of improved wood (Fig. 118). If there is a hip cavity, it is cut in the same way, to the end
of the component shown in Fig. 108. The mouth cannot be narrower than the width of the chisel, because
It follows that any cut on the sides of the mortise for food will make it oversized.
Keep the chisel in a vertical position and do not allow it to rotate, as this will also result in a mortise.
of large size. The practice of first drilling a row of holes and then opening them does not save time nor
produce a more precise shroud.
Cutting spikes
The precise sawing of tenons (Fig. 119) is a vital skill. They must be sawed confidently and
They must fit from the saw. For greater safety, it is not advisable to leave the lines behind, as it reduces the
The size of a spike at size is more difficult and less precise than cutting it correctly in the first place.
A 250 mm (10 in) back saw or blade is the most commonly used for this purpose. The saws of
Marco are used in Europe and by some workers in the U.S., but have never been popular in
Great Britain since the manufacture of good quality back saws, and beginners generally
they find them quite clumsy.

Before starting, check the names of the parts in Fig. 95 and shade the waste. While
there are few chances of throwing the wrong piece, it is essential that the sawdust is removed from the waste and not

49
 from the grain. That is, the 'kerf' (the saw cut) must be in the waste and right up to the line. The
Beginners using the help of a thick pencil in Fig. 105 should cut one pencil line and leave the other.
intact. The technique is not difficult if the following guidelines are followed: do not reduce two gauge lines at once;
Do not see a line that is out of sight. (A modification of the saw is described in Appendix B).

50
 Always start cutting at the furthest corner, not the closest one. Beginners can
finding it useful to chisel a triangular notch to start the saw accurately (Fig. 120). With the rail in
vertical position on the screw, start cutting at the furthest corner, slowly lowering the handle
until the groove is cut to a depth of approximately 3 mm (1 / 8in.) (Fig 121). Now tilt
the workpiece (Fig. 122) and, keeping the saw in the groove, saw from corner to corner. Then, turn the
work or stand on the other side, and look again from corner to corner, leaving a triangle uncut in it
center (Fig. 123). Now grab the work vertically and, running along the two existing saw cuts, remove
this last triangle, cutting up to the blade line, but no further. Keep the saw in position
horizontal (Fig. 124).

51
 If there is a set-in or haunch, I saw the following. Repeat these steps on all the other spigots (Fig.
The hip can be cut now or later.

Cutting the shoulder is the most important as this is the piece that remains exposed. Except in the rails.
wide, that can be planned, the shoulder must rise from the saw. Cramp to the bench, deepen the
cut with a blade and chisel in a shallow groove (Fig 126). Place a very sharp saw in the
slot and remove it a few times to make a cut, then cut the cheek. Be very careful not to
see the ear of corn (Fig. 127), which would be seriously weakened. If the garbage does not fall, the cheek has probably been
cut with an arc movement, leaving some debris in the center (Fig. 128). I did not see the shoulder anymore.
deep. Remove the debris with a chisel, then carefully and cautiously remove the obstruction. It is cut
shelf if not cut beforehand.

Remove the set-in with a little replacement, and cut it to the blade line with a chisel just wider.
the size of the spike. This prevents damage to the corner of the shoulder. Finally, I saw the miter (fig. 129). The
spikes must have letters or numbers to identify them with their mortars.

Make a preliminary adjustment of the joints. The spike may be too wide or thick.
Check this last one by inserting it diagonally into the mortise (Fig. 130). One might mistakenly think

52
that a spike is too thick when it is, in fact, too wide. It may have been cut.
too wide or that the wick has been cut in a conical shape (Fig 131), in which case, trim it
square shape. The most precise way to correct excessive feathering is to use a router plane, in
whose plant has been bolted with a rail material cut (Fig. 132).

53
 Once you have verified that the tenon will fit into the mortise, grip the rail in the vise and touch the
embedded member with a block of wood and a hammer (Fig. 133). The face of the hammer is small and the
turn it into a tool more precise than the mallet. Check each joint this way. If the
shoulder does not close, the spike is too long or the hip is too long, and any of these
problems can be easily fixed. But a badly cut shoulder can only be corrected by going back to
squaring it and removing it with a shoulder plane.

54
 Marked and cut notches button
The table tops are held in place by contraction buttons, the manufacture and use of which will be described.
on p. 113. The obstacles for these will be marked by an experienced worker at the same time as the
spikes. For simplicity, these two processes have been kept separate here.

Screw the pairs of rails and mark the lengths of the button opening on the upper edge (Fig.
The final splints should be as close to the shoulder as is convenient. On a small table, this
It could be a little more than 13 mm (1/2 in.), because the top must be firmly secured at the corners.
The correct length of the plate for a small table (A) is about 25 mm (1 inch). For larger tables
there will be a proportional increase.

Separate the rails and mark the lines a short distance in from the inner side (use a pencil to avoid leaving
trace further ahead). Set a gauge for the chosen chisel. Again, on tables
small this could be 8 mm (5 / 16in.) (B). The distance from the top edge is the same (C) and
depth is also important. Calibrate the fillings and shade the residues (Fig. 135). Then place the

55
bar in the bank and cut the masonry in the usual way. Nowadays, these curtains are often cut
with a power router, and the resulting rounded ends are quite acceptable as long as they are
additional to the marked length. The common business practice of cutting a slot along the entire
rail length should not be followed, as the remaining wood tends to come off. If working by hand, check
that the required depth has been reached everywhere.

It is impossible to determine the number of shrouds or their spacing, but as a general rule, it is better to have
too many instead of very few, especially on the rails at the ends.
Brushing brushes
Beforesticking,[Link],seethelowerend.
fromthelegwithprecisiontomeasureandmeasuretheamountoftheconicalshapeinthefinalgrainworkingfromtheface
andthetrueedge(Fig136).[Link].
and a test bed. Some pencil marks near the joint line help prevent the joint
adjustedyoumoveawayinvoluntarily.

56
 Short legs can be kept in the vice to plan the first surface, but after having
Having lost the parallel, they can no longer be so tightly held. The general method of working against a glide stop.
It's difficult for beginners. There are three alternatives:

Grab the work by its ends in a jaw of the sheet and, in turn, hold this in the bench vice.
with the leg resting on the bench. The release clamps require a packing piece.

2. Grab an appropriate length of board or plywood in the vice and tighten the leg with
help from cramps in the form of light or small hand screws (Fig. 137).

Prepare a multiple layer or wood length of approximately 20 mm (3/4 in.) thick.

Take and screw a block of hardwood with notches of approximately the same thickness at one end.
(Fig. 138). The device is held in the vise with the block on the workbench. The work is simply
pushed into the notch to glide.
Interior polishing
The polishing of interiors and backs not only produces a superior-looking job, but it also
It has a purpose. The wood is sealed from the atmosphere and will not absorb or release moisture.
easily, the cause of the greatest distortion. Furthermore, it will be less attractive to bored insects. Polish
the internal surfaces before gluing them while they are available. This prevents the polish from building up
in the corners, and the excess glue can be cleaned more easily from a polished surface.

In the case of rails, prepare the inner face and the bottom edge. A smoothing plane should be used.
finely defined and sharp, although a difficult patch may require the scraper or the scraping plane
(consult pages 89 and 103). Finally, sand these surfaces with sandpaper. Soften the
sharp or the corners between these two surfaces, but not the other corners. Test the corner to see if it is
too sharp rubbing with the knuckles pressed, not with the ball of the thumb, which is less sensitive. Before
to apply the finish (see page 117, protect the tips by wrapping them in adhesive paper
transparent or masking tape. The button parts do not require any protection, as there is no
glue.

57
 Clean the two inner surfaces of the legs in the same way, being careful to work only
in the cones and not planning the joint. Before applying a finish, protect the bonding areas with tape.
adhesive (Fig. 139). This can be placed approximately and trimmed to size with a cutting gauge and a
knife. The masked area must be meticulously smaller than the gluing area to ensure
that glue does not stick to an unpolished place.
Gluing
Before applying any glue, make sure all the pieces fit correctly.
Clamp together a long side rail and two legs, using a frame clamp and wooden blocks (Fig.
140). The blocks cannot be picked up from the waste box, they must be made carefully to the same thickness.
that the rail should be as long as the width of the rail. The clamp bar should be in the center underneath.
The rail and the cramps should not be lower than the bottom of the bar (Fig. 141). If the
The cramp bar is too high, as in A, the shoulders will open in AA. If the cramp bar is
too low, as in B, the shoulders will open in BB. By observing Fig. 141 in the direction of the ends,
you will see that, if the cramps block is low, that is, on the bar, the leg will turn, in this case in the direction
counterclockwise, opening to CC.

Make sure the rail matches the length mark at the top of the leg (Fig. 142).
If it's too high, use a guillotine clamp between the rail and the leg foot to position it.
(Fig. 143). If the rail is too low, correct the position with a clamp at G and a sturdy block (Fig.
A slight adjustment of the tenon or the mortise may be necessary.

Check that the diagonals are equal with a thin ribbon and a pencil (Fig. 145). If they are not,
move the blade cramp slightly in the direction of the longest diagonal (Fig 146).

Now examine the shoulder fit in this position. If the fit is good, mark the letter.
identification with a brand (Fig 147). If the fit is not satisfactory, mark the opening point (Fig. 148)
and disassemble it. Using a sharp knife, re-square from this point (Fig 149). Secure the rail to the table.
of work or to a robust block held in the vice and remove the excess with a shoulder plane (see the
photography 15)

58
 When it is tightly fastened with snug shoulders and equal diagonals, make sure that the
legs are not twisted using rolling strips (Fig. 150). Unless the cuts or the spikes
They are very short, generally it is possible to pull off the legs without twists.
Summary
Is the rail in the correct place?

2. Are the diagonals equal?

3. Do the shoulders fit well?

Are the legs in the wind?

59
60
 These are the normal tests for any flat frame. Repeat this process with the other long side.
the remaining legs, and when the results are satisfactory, glue the pieces together.

After gluing the two long frames, attach the short rails. Before gluing, repeat all the
tests with two additional ones. Test that the upper diagonals are equal (Fig 151) and that there are none
twist at the top of the table (Fig 152). The upper diagonals can be placed in their position with
a tensioned cable loop with a rotating rod (Fig 153). Slightly over-correct to allow for the
elastic recovery.
Types of glue
The choice of glue is important, although to some extent it is a personal matter. The glue
Scottish (that is, the animal), which is heated at a glue point with a water shirt is much less
used these days. It still finds favor with restorers for whom, in any case, it is a
need for the coating. It is not waterproof, requires hardening overnight, and deteriorates.
if it is allowed to boil.

61
 Synthetic resin tails are used by both individual artisans and the industry. There are
two types. The combined hardener type consists of a synthetic resin and a hardener, both
deshidratados. Cuando se mezcla con agua la química Fig. 154. comienza. El tiempo de montaje es de unos
10 minutes. A minimum cramping time is given for various temperatures. They may typically range from four to
six hours, but hardening must be applied overnight before subjecting the joint to tension.
The cascamita is currently typical of this type.

The separate hardener type consists of a resin and a hardening solution (usually an acid.
formic). It is also available as a powder to be turned into resin in smaller quantities.
by adding water. The resin is applied to half of the joint and the hardener to the other. The time of
assembly is approximately the same but the minimum cramping time is quite shorter (to
continuation, a table of assembly times and cramps is shown). This is a very strong glue
clean and there is no waste. Aerolite 300 is typical (306 is the powder form).

Synthetic resin queues are waterproof and mold-resistant. They are "filling gaps", as
the slightly loose connections will be secured.

62
 PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glues are currently the most widely used. There are many brands in the
market and other new ones are constantly appearing. They come ready mixed and are applied directly
from the bottle. Some tend to stain hardwoods, particularly oak, so it should be
try a new brand before using it. They harden quickly, two hours or even less, being a
minimum time of cramps. However, hardening overnight is still recommended beforehand.
to subject a joint to tension. In general, these glues are not waterproof, although it is being
making the declaration of some of the newest products. The PVA glues are mostly white
(some are yellow) and they dry semi-transparent.

Rubber-based impact adhesives are of little use to the wood craftsman.

very expensive epoxy resins like Araldite and 'superglues' are sometimes useful for getting out of a jam,
but they have no place in the overall construction.

63
 Request
To achieve an even coating, a toothed spreader is better (Fig 154). Made of plastic,
that are supplied with impact tails and most hardware stores will give a few kilometers to the
regular customers. Otherwise, make one from a leftover plastic laminate with a file of three
peaks.

The cleaning of the exterior

Excess glue on the interior surfaces does not pose problems if the guidelines have been followed.
previous instructions; It can be easily turned off. To remove excess glue from surfaces
on the outside, smooth the glue on all four sides, then sharpen the smoothing plane and adjust it finely to
achieve a good finish.

The actual retention of a small table will largely depend on the size of the individual bench.
First, secure the table firmly. This can be done by screwing it into the screw with a heavy strip to
keep it in place (Fig. 155) and use small blocks or wedges to support the tapered legs. If this does not
It is feasible, the table can be inverted, with the legs facing outwards (Fig. 156). This will be necessary for larger tables.
big anyway. The leg remains firm to plan for angled support. The plane towards
inside from the leg to level the joint and finish with a partial circular movement to avoid
cut the grain in the leg (Fig. 157). Carefully check that the joint remains flat using a
metal rule (Fig 158).

64
 The horn or 'joggle' that remains on the leg must now be cut close; the division can be avoided.
chamfering a small bevel just below the top of the rail (Fig. 159). Then plane it to level.
Always plane inwards and check with a ruler (Fig 160). Excessive planing (Fig. 161) will result in
a poorly fitted top. For this part of the work, use the smoothing plane as much as possible.
However, there is always an occasional spot that does not respond to this treatment. This can be cleaned with the
cabinet scraper (see p. 89) or, better yet, in larger areas, with the scraper plan (see p.
103) that ensures the surface remains flat.

Finish with 'sanding' (that is, sandpaper). Glass paper comes in various grades, but one grade
thicker than 80 is not necessary. Please note, however, that glass paper is not a
covering up for poor brushing technique or for poorly sharpened scrapers. Grit papers or
aluminum oxide provides better results and lasts longer, although these are a bit more expensive. It is provided
Additional information about sanding in 'Cleaning the top' (page 101).

65
 The furniture scratcher

Wood can be removed in two ways: cutting or scraping. Figure 162 shows the action of
cut of an axe. It will be seen that, for the most part, the edge is free of the wood. The action of the chisel and the
planing is something similar; The wood is divided in front of the cutting edge resulting in the edge of the
the tool lasts a long time. But in the scraping action (Fig. 163), the edge is in constant contact
it's heavy with wood and dulls very quickly. Moreover, cutting requires less effort than scraping,
and sharpening takes less time. The scraper, lacking a sole like that of the plane, causes a surface
it needs to be easily false, so it should only be used when you are in a jam and when you want to clean a
existing surface or shape. When choosing the scraping, make sure that the tool works at its maximum
efficiency. In fact, scraping is an unfortunate word because it leads people to accept a level of
very low performance.

The cabinet scraper is a rectangular piece of tempered steel that varies in size between 75 x 40.
mm (3 x 1-1/2 inches) and 150 x 70 mm (6 x 2-3/4 inches). The most convenient size is 125 x 65 mm.
(5 x 2-1 / 2 inches). The very flexible scrapers are easy to use but heat up a lot. A thick
and rigid it stays colder but tires the fingers.

Having specialized equipment for sharpening ensures that the work is done well instead of a
rushed retouch. This equipment consists of a vice, a file, an oil stone, and a polisher. Fig.
164 shows a set of clamps that not only facilitate filing but also reduce the amount
of unpleasant noise that may result. Arrange things so that when the leather covers are
instead, the jaws remain naturally open just slightly more than the thickness of the scraper.

Don't skimp on the file. Buy a 250mm (10 inch) file or better yet a 300mm file.
(12 inch) Single milling. Place a decent and identifiable handle, keep it in a plastic case.
and use it exclusively to sharpen the scrapers. When buying an oil stone, any stone
artificial stone will serve, although my preference is for a small circular axe stone. It is found
available a 75 mm (3 inch) carborundum pattern with one fine and one medium side. A lubricant oil is used.
fine with this.

The last requirement is a burnisher (Fig. 165). All kinds of things are put to use here, from the
the back part of the chisels up to the take-off files, but if the material is not hard enough,
Eventually, grooves will form in it, and then the best edge cannot be obtained. I recommend the purchase.
from a 100 mm (4 in.) long round engineer's drill bit by 6 or 8 mm (1/4 in. or 5/16 in.)
Of diameter, in high-speed steel. Eclipse and several other brands make this. The cost is not excessive.
Considering that the tool will last a lifetime. Once again, make a well-finished handle and maintain it.
the tool wrapped in a cloth or in a plastic cover.

Sharpening the cabinet scraper is a procedure that is often described, but there are several

66
features worth noting. This is how it's done:

1. Stone the four flat edges, removing any burrs from the previous sharpening (Fig 166).

2. Install in the bench vice in the jaws of the scraper and file straight and square, removing all
the traces of the previous edges (Fig. 167).

3. Finish with the draw file, keeping the square file to the scraper (Fig. 168).

4. Repeat this with the stone to remove any file marks (Fig 169).

5. Repeat these procedures on the other long edge.

6. Eliminate the burrs by edging (Fig 166). There are now two long edges of 90° in section as
in Fig. 170.

7. Lightly lubricate the polisher and polish the faces (Figure 171).

8. Return to the special jaws and polish the edge with a few firm movements to exactly
90 °. This produces edges in section as shown in the Fig.

172.

9. Repeat at an angle of approximately 85°, to produce the edge in section as shown in Fig. 173.
Fig. 174a shows the cutting position when

sharp as described. In Fig. 174b too much angle has been given in the burnishing with the result
that the tool only cuts when held at an inconvenient low angle. In use, cutting with
a cutting action (Fig. 175c), not like in Figs. 175a and b. To obtain chips of a manageable width,
double the tool with the pressure of the thumb. Some workers cover their thumbs with surgical tape.
as protection when the scraper heats up. Please note that the scraper should remove fine chips and
curly. If it only turns to dust, the tool needs sharpening. But be careful! A perfectly flat surface
It can be easily altered by excessive use of the scraper. There is a tendency to cut the most...
soft parts of the wood, leaving the harder parts raised. This effect becomes very evident when polished.
wood.

67
68
Do not sand before scraping. Even the finest sanding leaves deposits of abrasive particles in the pores of

69
the wood. The use of the scraper after sanding means that its sharp edge will wear out quickly
of these particles. The same applies to the cutting edges of the planes.

Regarding the new sharpening, many claim that this can be done quickly by removing the
they are polished, either by stoning or by burnishing, and then re-burnished in the normal way. The polishing angle
it should be increased each time until the working angle (Fig. 174b) becomes uncomfortable. In general, I do not think
that the moments saved by avoiding to create a new vanguard are worth it. If the archive, the stone and the
polishers are easily stored at hand, I'm sure most readers will want to do the
I work correctly every time.

After a long interval, the shaped scrapers are available again, but it is always...
It is possible to archive or grind a small scraper for any convenient curve. These scrapers
formed parts are also useful for the work on the front plate in the lathe (stationary, of course, by
For example, when removing circular marks from the inside of a container). Preferably, the front plate should
withdraw from the lathe and remain in the vice.
Union of the top
The first objective is to achieve the most pleasing appearance. Arrange the boards to find the best one.
result and the most discreet unions. At the same time, keep in mind that all tables must plan in
the same direction. To achieve the best visual effect, this is not always possible, however, it should always be
to sign up

To minimize the deformation of the finished tabletop, the heart side of

alternative tables should generally be at the top (Fig. 176). However, when it
initially select for a top part, the tables should be chosen as close as possible to the radials in
the record, that is, with annual rings at right angles to the face (Fig. 177). This is described in the books
text like "saw room".

There are three approaches to union, so that individual circumstances are taken into account.
The boards can be joined at the approximate and planned level and up to the thickness later on. This method
give the maximum thickness. A slight preliminary analysis can be done to see the color and the pattern of veins to
match. Tables can be thickened, usually by hand, to slightly oversize, then
join them and clean them. This is how most workers without machines operate. With a
brush thickener, or with a previously planned and purchased material, the boards are joined
carefully in the thickness of the finish, when very little subsequent cleaning is necessary. The
Wide warped boards will require cutting the center and rejoining them. The boards may also need
width cuts to adapt to smaller machinery, for example, a 150 planing or thickening machine
mm (6 inches). This is not as harmful as it may seem since a large part of the wide tables
offered for sale are somewhat deformed.

70
 Once you have decided on the layout of the tables, make sure they are not crooked with the strips.
Winding, mark the side that looks better with the face mark and identify the joints (Fig. 178).
The joints can now be planned by hand or in a surface planer.

Working by hand, a test or assembly plan is the right tool to use. The joints
of moderate length can be made with a finely adjusted cat plane. The cutter must be
completely square since the corners will not be used. It is very useful to have two cutters for the
test plan, one completely square, for joints, and one with rounded corners and the smallest minimum
of the curves, for the surface work (Fig. 179).

Just like in the first brushing exercises, make a straight plane to clean the edge, then, if
he is a beginner, mark each end with a pencil and, with the finest cuts, avoid the ends until
no more shavings should appear. Use the edge grip all over. Continuously check with a try-square.
Then, create an end-to-end plan until achieving the first full-length and width shave.
complete. Stop once and repeat on the corresponding board. Now the joint can be tested.

I grabbed a table in the vice and placed my partner on it for his exam. I gently pushed a
side in the corner. If it turns (Fig. 180), it is high in the middle and it is necessary to remove the shaving. If the top board
It doesn't spin but falls, either the joint is good or it is hollow in the center. A careful inspection will determine.
which. In a long joint, let's say about 1 m (3 feet), a very slight gap is accepted. In joints

71
shorter ones should aim for perfection.

Now test the joint for flatness with a ruler (Fig. 181). If any correction is needed,
using the square cutter, make a very slight adjustment on the side lever and perform the test.
shaving. Be careful when correcting in this way so as not to alter the alignment. It is not necessary
It should be said that full-width chips must always be produced. When both tests have been passed, the
the joint is ready to catch, but before doing so, do a dry run with all the cramps in your
place. Make sure the cramps are on a flat surface.

72
 In the days of Scotch tape, the bond was simply 'rubbed' and left to harden. This technique
it is not applicable to modern queues that require cramps or a substitute (Fig. 182). The ideal would be to stick
one board at a time, but often, to save time, two or three boards are stuck at once. Place a strip
of paper between the work and the bar of cramps to avoid glue and iron stains. Make sure that
the tables remain flat on the wire bars; if necessary, take them out of place with a G-clip.
Any slight step on the surface can be knocked down by using a block underneath that is
slightly thicker than the height of the cramp bar (Figs. 183 and 184). It is worth maintaining a
special wooden block for this purpose. When more than two blade clamps are used, they must be
space on opposite sides of the table, which helps prevent them from bending.

The union by machine in a surface planer broadly follows the same pattern. Once
having established the design of the tables with the true faces facing up, the alternative sides are marked
with a distinctive mark (Fig. 185). When joining, this face must run against the fence of the planer. From this
In this way, an error in squaring between the fence and the table of the planer is corrected, that is, the measurement from
The true faces will be planned at one table to about 89° and the other to 91°. Although the error can be very
small, in a top part of four pieces it is incorporated six times. This can result in an arc
appreciable when the top is stuck.

73
 Doweling the joints of the edges
A butt joint is sometimes pinned. This is done not so much to strengthen the joint, as the tails
modern ones are suitable, but to ensure a good alignment where a table has a curve in it or
to facilitate the pasting of several tables at once. The traditional method is shown in figures 186 and
187.

Grab the boards together and square at intervals. Separate and center the true faces and
then it gets boring, using a plug drill or a brad point drill; the helical drill of a
A drill bit without a point will not start with sufficient precision. Avoid buying drill bits for machines with a tip.
twisted; They pull too fast with almost total loss of control. Slightly tangle the holes to
leave space for the light whiskers surrounding the hole and for the exuded glue. The pins must
be a little shorter than the combined depths of the two holes. Their ends are slightly
sharpened (a touch with a sharpener will do it). A shallow groove allows the glue to exit.
remnant (Fig. 188). When several pegs need to be prepared, a simple template (Fig. 189) speeds up the
process.

74
 Alternatively, one of the commercial pin tools or also pins can be used.
pin markers (Fig. 190). When using the latter, drill a series of holes in a piece when
if convenient (no particular brand is required), then insert the marker pins of
plug. Place both boards on a flat surface, staggering one if possible, then join them together and
Hit them with a hammer or with a gentle shock (Fig. 191). Drill the holes in the second board where
the centers have marked it. Reinforcing with loose languages and using modern queues is not an improvement in this
method, and it is a process generally reserved to secure the edges on man-made boards.
Cleaning the top
When the glue is completely dry, the surfaces can be leveled. Use a plane of
test with a slightly curved blade or a cat plane. First work diagonally across the
grain (Fig. 192) and finally along (Fig. 193). Try to avoid working too much on the edges. Test the
True way with a ruler and long strips of rolled material, then measure and make a plan according to the thickness. A
very fine smoothing plane must complete the surface. Inspect by looking along the top
of the light. On the top of a thinning, small local spots can be planned
piling a handful of shavings under the offensive area and applying great pressure.

75
 The cabinet scraper (see p. 89) can finish the job, but the scraper plan (see p.
It is better because, having a sole, it will not produce gaps. In difficult material, particularly in woods.
tropical with interwoven grain, sometimes it is advisable to sharpen, adjust the cut and the very fine iron layer,
and planing along the grain, finishing along the grain with a freshly sharpened scraper plane.

The finish will be completed with sanding. The most useful are garnet and aluminum oxide papers that
they have a longer life than common glass paper. For preparatory sanding use 80 grit. Generally,
this is sufficient for coarse-grained woods like oak, elm, and teak, but for fine-grained woods
closer, like mahogany families, use 120 grit afterwards. veneered work that incorporates miters or the
Inlay will require 180 grains, which is fine enough to allow for movement.
circular about those parts. The finer work and the polishing process require 240 grains. The sanders
orbitals will be kept one degree thicker at all stages (for example, 60 followed by 100 then after)
150).

76
 Sand by hand along the grain using a cork sanding block. Avoid overly rounding.
the edges. Likewise, avoid aggressively sharp corners that easily cause damage. The test for this
sharpness is rubbing the edge with the knuckles pressed (not the ball of the thumb). Before starting the actual polishing,
I cleaned the work with a "sticky cloth."
The scraping plane
The scraper plane, which removes fine shavings, will produce a good finish on all hardwoods.
It is particularly useful in tropical woods with their difficult intertwined grains. Softwoods do not.
respond well to scraping.

To sharpen the blade, remove all previous burrs from the flat side, either with a stone of
oil, an oilstone, a footstone or a dull file (Fig. 194). File or move the edge
at an angle of 45° (Fig. 195). This angle is important; a very gentle curve is not harmful, but
A hollow edge should definitely be avoided. Once again, rub the strawberry on the flat side.

77
78
 File the edge in the manner of a flat iron (see page 12), but at 45°, remove any mark of
file. The sharp corners can be slightly rounded. This edge should be very sharp and must not
find a trace of a bevel on the flat side. A wooden support similar to a spoke leaf support (Fig.
196) it can be helpful. Make sure there are no burrs on the flat side. With the flat blade on the bench,
Bevel, polish the flat surface for approximately 20 to 30 strokes with firm pressure and a drop of oil.
The polisher must remain completely flat (Fig. 197).

79
 You slide the blade onto a screw, bevel the side of the sharpener, and with a slightly oiled polisher,
comience a bruñirse firmemente a 45 °. Levante lentamente el mango hasta que la pulidora forme un ángulo
at 15° with respect to the horizontal (that is, 75° with the blade). Between 30 and 40 strikes will be needed depending on
the applied pressure (Figs. 198, 199, and 200). The edge will now have a defined mill or hook (Fig. 201).
This tiny hook is very exaggerated in the drawings. Repeat the process on the other edge of the blade.

To set up the plane, place the sole on a flat surface and loosen the three screws. Insert the
blade with the side of the cutter facing forward, that is, towards the two fastening screws, and the bevel facing the
single adjustment screw and the operator. With the blade resting on the flat surface, tighten the screws of
tightening. Keep the adjusting screw only loose. The scraper can now cut, producing a shave
fine. If it doesn't, remove the slack from the adjustment screw and then turn it tighter. The more it is tightened
the thicker the screw, the thicker the cut will be. The more the blade bends, the narrower the shave will be. Naturally,
The best surface will be produced from a light cut.

80
 When using the scraper plane, as with all planes, lightly lubricate the sole. Work along
from the grain, but with the blade held diagonally (Fig. 202). Long, wide shavings should be produced,
delgadas y sedosas. Cuando solo se produce polvo, la cuchilla está roma o está muy afilada. En caso de que
a conversation occurs due to lack of pressure, causing ripples in the wood, change the angle of
Immediately brush and work on them with very firm pressure.
The shape of the surface of the table
The rectangular shape of the top (Fig. 203a) shown in the basic planning on the
Chapter 14 can be modified to provide a series of simple but more interesting forms. The ends
They can be curved (b); but this should not be exaggerated. The long sides can be curved (c), here it should
to sign up for a very subtle curve. A combination of these (d) gives a less aggressive corner than the rectangle
smooth in (a). The corners can be rounded in (b) to give the smoother shape of (e). The shape (c) can be
treated similarly. All curved sides with rounded corners are shown in (f). The fourth
round and the 45° cut are raw and should be avoided (g and h).

81
 The drawing of these soft curves is shown in Fig. 204. A thin and flexible strip is needed.
uniform thickness and with straight grain. Knots and irregularities will not allow a smooth curve. Two pins
slender ones are inserted at the ends of the proposed curve and a small pointed block is tightened
in the center. This fits smoothly until it reaches the required curve. Mark this clearly with
a thin pen.

Many people oppose the use of these in woodworking, but they provide a clear and uniform line.
that can be cleaned later.

To cut the shape, a small band saw is the fastest method, although many readers without
They will use a portable jigsaw. Smooth curves can also be cut with a handsaw.
leaving the sharper curves for the arch saw or the shooting saw. The careful cut, of course,
reduce the amount of post-cleaning, which in most cases will be performed with the metal beam. The
Radio waves are sharpened in the same way as the plane (p. 12). Its cutting blade is handled more conveniently.
on a simple wooden support.

82
 The round-faced spokeshave has concave shapes (Fig. 206a), while in the convex shapes
the flat-faced version is used (Fig. 206b). Both forms can be made with greater precision with the
circular plane (Fig. 206c). It has a sole that fits the curve. However, it is a very
expensive and, at the time of writing this report, its continuous production is uncertain.

En vista de la suela muy corta de los radios, se debe mantener una vigilancia cuidadosa en la línea para
make sure to achieve a smooth curve. Also, frequently check with a test square. The
The cutting direction (Fig. 207) is away from the middle on the long sides and towards the center in the final grain.

Anyone, except the smallest ones, can be firmly held by means of a small block of
angle (Fig. 208). Fig. 209 shows a table placed at a comfortable working height, supported on a
extreme in the vice of the bench and on the other by an angle block, which is tightened both on the bench and
at work.

83
 Edge formation
The edges can be left squared with a sharp corner or softened 'arris' (Fig. 210a). They can be
forming the arc of a larger circle like b. A complete half-turn, i, is quite rudimentary and
it's generally not that successful. Like with h, it has little to recommend it. It gives a more ...
light when the edge is trimmed, c. Be careful with the underquoting in the area to which it is attached
marco. Este borde nuevamente puede ser redondeado, d. Estos redondeos se pueden trabajar con éxito con un

84
sharp block plan followed by a block of sandpaper.

The power router provides a variety of edge shapes, of which e, f, and g are.
examples. These are only limited by the cutters or combinations of cutters available. Most
In these ways, and those designed individually, such as j, they can be executed using the scratch tool.
This tool is not offered for sale and must be made.

The scratching tool

Although the name might suggest a considerably lower performance, this is a tool capable of
produce a work of precision and quality. In previous times, it was the main source of fine moldings. There is
various types of scratching tools. The simplest and most common form is Fig. 211. Fig. 212 shows
a more sophisticated model that is easier to adjust and generally more pleasant to use. It also
You can make a marking tool from two marking indicators (Figs. 213 and 214). Only it
you need to make the stem, the two fences that are borrowed for the occasion. This form is particularly
suitable for working on edges where single fence models can sometimes slip and damage the
work.

85
 The blades can be made from a variety of materials, for example, scrapers of
cabinets, old hand saws and old electric saw blades (but not the hard edge).

The saws for common metals are too thin. The fine steel that is sold as 'material
"plan" can be purchased for work.

File the blades to shape them, limit the cutting edge so that the tool can
work in both directions. After shaping, harden the blades by heating them until they are
bright red color and then I turned them off in oil or water. I cleaned one side with a sanding cloth and, when
be bright, reheat, preferably supported on a larger piece of metal to slow down the
Process. Observe how the metal changes color, and when it turns light brown, turn it off again.
This will give you a strong enough advantage to maintain its sharpness, which can still be sharpened.
through the filing. The lighter the color, the harder the metal will become, and conversely, a color
too dark will produce a soft tool. If the metal changes color too quickly and cannot
turn it off in time, restart the process.

86
 Contraction buttons
Wood is porous and, depending on the atmosphere, it will absorb or expel moisture causing that
expand or contract (Fig. 215). This cannot be avoided, and this movement must be taken into account in the
construction of the table. The amount of movement in length is negligible.

If the top is screwed directly to the frame, it will split due to contraction or bend.
due to expansion. This is the most common cause of split tables. The problem is solved by using
contraction buttons to secure the top. The mortises for these were discussed in

Page 76. The buttons on the long sides must have space to move in and out.
so their shrouds should only be a little longer than the buttons. The buttons on the short sides or
at the ends they need space to move sideways in the mortises, which therefore must be larger
long.

87
 To make the contraction buttons there are two possible methods. The traditional method is to use
Short grain cuts. Produce to thickness and eliminate a rebate. Then cut the button. Repeat the process.
as needed.

The second method is the use of the most common long grain cuts. Make them wide and thick.
beveled or rounded corners, cut a rebate and then cut the button.

Once you have made the required number of buttons, place the top of the table flat and
Place the frame over her. Check that the overlap on all four sides is correct. Make a gauge.
of depth improvised and drill carefully on the table.

The thickness of the buttons must be such that, when they are pulled abruptly from the mortice, they fit snugly against
the top of the table. In other words, the length X on the button should be slightly less than the
length Y on the rail to obtain the vice-type grip (Fig. 219).

88
89
 Finishes
There are several types of possible finishes in handmade woodworking, and the first one that is usually
what comes to mind is French polishing. However, considerable experience is not only necessary to
this, but it is also a dust-free workshop with plenty of space and good lighting. The readers who
Those wishing to become experts in this skill must study technical publications specifically.
about the topic. Aside from reproduction and restoration work, most handmade furniture
Nowadays they are not French polished.

Wax polishing
Wax polishing is the most common and easiest finish in handmade woodwork. It is the most
ancient and generally considered to be the most beautiful of finishes. As the wax penetrates into the
wood, instead of remaining on the surface, achieves a shiny and deep patina. It is obtained
quickly a moderate semi-matte finish that is further improved with polishing. Unfortunately, a
wax finish has little resistance to heat or liquids, making it unsuitable for items like
tables, trays and possibly chair arms.

After the preliminary sanding of the grades, it is common to apply a thin layer of sanding sealer.
be based on cellulose or lacquer. The latter is the most popular and easiest to obtain in small quantities. If
it is not available, a sealer can be made by diluting white French varnish.

With the same volume of methanol. Avoid the vivid polishing of orange buttons. The sealant
It is applied with a soft brush, preferably with a camel hair mop. Its purpose is to fill in.

90
the grain and reduce the absorption of wax in the early stages. When it is dry, it is rubbed with sandpaper
of quality 'flour', or the best wet and dry paper.

A pure beeswax polish should be used. The proud homeowner will use the
wax polishes of paraffin and those containing silicones, but these are not suitable for the first ones.
raw wood layers. A polish can be made by crushing and dissolving 0.45kg (1 lb) of wax.
pure beeswax in 280ml (1 / 2pt) of pure turpentine (not in white alcohol). This is heated in a double boiler.
(that is, a water shirt) until it becomes a smooth paste. If it is too rigid, thin with
more turpentine. Apply to the wood with a soft, non-fuzzy cloth, rubbing it well into the grain. Let it
that it hardens for a time and finally polish with soft, dry cloths. If a firm blow on the surface
with one finger it leaves a mark, more rubbing is required.
Oil finishes
The oil finish was very popular in earlier times when maids were cheap to give the
Frequent brakes are necessary to maintain and improve the surface. It requires a lot of time and persistence.
to achieve a good finish, but a great advantage of an oil finish is that it can be easily renewed
easily.

Linseed oil is now marketed pre-packaged by decoration companies. The addition of

Around 10 percent white alcohol will accelerate drying. Each application should be well rubbed in.
It must be left to dry for at least 24 hours. Then it is rubbed with flour quality paper, and the dust is removed.
and is vigorously polished with a clean cloth. Other layers are applied in the same way. It is recommended
several days, possibly a week, between coats. A long process but it produces a rich finish and
durable and especially suitable for bar counters and dining tables.

Now there are variants in the market such as Danish oil and teak oil that shorten
considerably the process. They produce a matte finish that cannot be compared to that of the method of
traditional waxed

Wooden kitchen utensils can be treated by greasing with medicinal liquid paraffin; Some
workers recommend salad oil. Such items should be cleaned with running water, not with
hot water and detergents. They benefit from regular lubrication.

91
 Polyurethane varnishing
Polyurethane varnishes are a great advantage for hobbyists and small craftsmen. They
they apply easily and have a great resistance to heat, liquids, and abrasion. The finishes are shiny,
semi-mate (or eggshell) and mate. Now there are many brands available, but some are better than
others, so when they discover a good one, it is recommended that readers stick to it.

Apply the varnish with a soft, clean brush that should be specifically kept for the job.
clean it well after using it and keep it wrapped in a kitchen film to avoid particles of
Dust. The first layer of bare wood should be slightly reduced to about one in five.
Generally, three layers are recommended; brushstrokes disappear during drying. The disadvantage of the
polyurethanes have a long drying time, approximately six hours, during which the powder can
settling by creating "points".

For a better finish and faster drying, the following method is recommended. After sanding
carefully the first diluted layer is

Applied, either with a brush or with a rubber. Rub downwards when completely dry to remove.
the tips, using wet and dry paper of at least grade 320, finer if it can be obtained. This sanding
It is generally done with the fingers. A block of cork will tend to sand only at its corners, although it...
you can do a good job making a wooden block the same size as the cork block and
taking a piece of carpet. This has enough 'give' to sand over its entire area. To clean the paper and
to avoid the fine dust produced by dry sanding, spray the surface with a fine mist of white alcohol,
using a small garden spray.

Apply the varnish with a cloth pad (this can be filled with cotton wool).
Start with just a small amount of varnish, rubbing it in vigorously and finishing along the grain.
when the rubber starts to drag. Using this method, the varnish is dry to the touch fairly quickly, which
which allows the application of several coats in one day. As a general rule, apply three coats to the backs and the
interior and five on the cups and exteriors. Always wipe down carefully and clean between layers.

92
 Homes
Nitrocellulose lacquers should be avoided by beginners. If applied with a brush, they dry too quickly.
fast and the brush marks do not disappear, while spraying requires expensive equipment and,
ideally, a special workshop for that purpose.
Painting
Good painted finishes do not allow for short cuts. Quality paint and preparation of
First class is the rule. Clean brushes are essential; a large proportion of the tips of the paint
comes from dirty brushes.

Prepare the surface to the same level as for a polished finish. Sand the grades and apply a coat of
priming. Leave it overnight, then sand the tips and apply the undercoat the next day. Again,
Leave it all night and sand it again, then give the surface two coats of gloss. Given the long time
when the paint has dried, work in a dust-free atmosphere as much as possible, and when you have finished the
work, close the doors and windows to avoid drafts. The brushes must be thoroughly cleaned and
stored wrapped.

Components such as the panels to be polished on both sides can be rotated and supported on sticks.
painting (Figs. 221 and 222).

This eliminates the need for two drying times. The holes allow the sticks to be securely tied.
for its storage.
Leveling of the feet
Despite one's efforts, once its top has been fixed, a table can still
Lean on a flat surface and the feet will need to be leveled. Resist the temptation to trim the...
legs before the upper part is fixed. A slight deformation in the upper part can be pulled towards
down through the frame, but at the cost of distorting it.

Set up the entire table on a really flat surface. The table of a large circular saw is
ideal, but a piece of particleboard of thickness or slats can be used.

93
 Support the table and check with winding strips. Put small wedges under the legs when necessary.
necessary to stop the oscillation. Check that the height of the table at each corner is the same, to
correct if necessary by shifting the wedges.

With a small parallel block and a marked knife (Fig 223), draw a line at the bottom.
from each leg. The use of a try-square, carry this knifeline on the other three sides of the leg and saw.
Objective for minimal waste, but it must also be sufficient to be able to cut with a saw.
fine spike. After sawing, a very small bevel is cut around each foot (Fig 224). This is for
avoid capturing a sharp corner in a carpet thread and splitting.

As an alternative to the blade and the block, a small tracing point can be made for this.
purpose (Fig 225). It simply consists of a rectangular block with great clarity. With a little
It is possible to find a location for the pin that will give four different heights of tracing.

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95
 Chapter 3
Make a channel
Construction and design
Acarcase is a box-shaped construction made basically of boards, in contrast with
construction of tenons and grooves for posts and rails. Small cabinets, wardrobes, shelves, cupboards and
Drawers are all examples of channels. The main requirement in anything that is not a combined job.
It is some type of corner joint, which will be considered later.

A channel generally does not stand on the floor (Fig. 226) and the sides can be extended to form feet.
Figure 227. A box base is often used (Figure 228) that can be inserted or protruding. Very common.
it is a low stool (Fig. 229) after the construction of the table and the solid oak pieces can be seen
well on the feet of heavy blocks (Fig. 230). Corner joints can be avoided by extending the sides
Fig 231 or protruding the upper part (Fig 232). The shelves, whether fixed or mobile, are generally
requieren y con frecuencia tienen divisiones verticales. Puertas, cajones o una combinación de ambos (Figs.
233, 234 and 235) complete the range of possibilities. The backups in some way, from constructions
Quite elaborate up to plywood sheets, are normally the rule (Fig. 236). The figures
227-30 require some form of fitting into the joints of their corners. Figs. 231-2 avoid this joint,
substituting in its place a mortise and tenon joint or a dovetail joint.

A gutter
Between a dovetail joint and a simple dowel, there is a house halfway, the interlocking. This construction is
useful when the skill is limited or the price is decisive. It is particularly useful for cabinets that house equipment
technicians, for example, where elaborate work is not required.

96
A flush corner joint (Fig. 237) is weak when it is pinned, the holes are too close to the end.
This means that the upper parts must protrude from the ends or the ends must
extend over the top (Fig. 240). The latter may allow a rear rail (Fig. 241) that prevents
that the articles slide back.
A direct pin joint (Fig. 242) offers little resistance to deformation. A shallow housing, stopped
at the ends (Fig. 243), it is a completely stronger joint and is the main joint of a housing with a pin. For
build it, squeeze the sides or ends and mark the total length and the positions of the shelves with a sharp pencil
Separate them and adjust them to the real face, which is always inside a channel. Hold the shelves and other members.
horizontal (Fig. 245), mark the total length and the depth of the housing (Fig. 246).

Separate them, adjust them to the four sides, cut carefully and smooth the ends if necessary. Check all the pieces.
the cap that hides the casing, usually 6 mm (1 / 4in.) is correct (Fig. 247).

Mark the position of the pins at the ends of all relevant pieces. Many readers use
a template for applying some type of tacos, so the manufacturer's instructions will be followed here. The
those who work without the template will mark the positions of a calibrated centerline; there is no need for it
precise spacing (Fig 248). Drill the holes using an electric drill with a stop
depth and hazelnut very lightly (Fig 249). Dowel marker pins are inserted or the marks of
Figure 248 must be transferred to the coincident component.

97
98
 Attach a strip along the joint line (Fig. 250) and hold or clamp the component.
corresponding with the markers in place, and gently tap to get the marks
central (Fig. 251). Drill in these, preferably using a drilling machine. When the
tables are too wide, a tool like the Wolfcraft drill guide is useful (see photograph 21). In
this drilling is vital to use a depth stop.

Prepare the plugs as described earlier on p.99, or use manufactured plugs.

Take two of these at each joint (Fig. 252). Prepare a small height gauge like this
show, place it over each pin and level of the faucet. A pin that is too long can cause a great
discomfort when hitting.

Hit each joint firmly and mark the width of the casing accurately with a sharp knife.
Make sure the knife fits into the corner. The residue is removed from the casing by
a power router or using a chisel and a hand router. The edges must be cut along the line.
from the knife with a wide chisel. Remove the notches from the coupling pieces to give the housings
detained. I saw near the mark and finished with a sharp chisel wider than the thickness of the wood.

99
 Screw the casing until it is dry and check if it fits well. Disassemble, clean, and polish all the parts.
internal surfaces. Make sure the shelves don't thin out too much in this process. Stick the dowels.
remove the excess glue.

The cramping blocks used should be made for the work with certain care. Do not use leftovers.
strangers that are lying around. They must be slightly curved (Fig. 254) to ensure the pressure on the
center of the sides of the casing, otherwise, the sides may stick in an arc shape. If there is no
sufficient frame braces, drill the blocks and the braces using screwed bars, nuts and
washers. 12 mm (1 / 2in.) is suggested, running in holes of 14 mm (9 / 16in.) (Fig. 255).

A milano tail canal

The dovetail joint is the traditional and strongest corner joint. Some of its various forms are
They are shown in Fig 256 but of these only the common (or through) dovetail and the returned dovetail.
it can be considered as basic skills. The great advantage of a dovetail construction is that
there are no protruding corners. The essence of the common swallowtail is its 'cornerliness', which means that
it shows well in the upper corner of a cabinet (Fig 257), but like a lower corner (Fig 258) the
a row of rectangles is only opaque and slightly unattractive. For this reason, the common swallowtail is used for a
upper corner and the Milano tail at the bottom. A Milano tail at the top
(figure 259) has nothing to contribute and is easily confused with the lower part of the milano tail turned back
machine.

100
101
102
103
 There are a number of variations of the common swallowtail, the simplest of which is one of the most...
It is effective to group or cluster the milano queues (Fig 260). Groups of two or three are the most successful. In

104
un trabajo amplio, cuatro es quizás el límite que permite que el patrón se reconozca fácilmente. Es
particularly important that the pattern is clear at first glance.

In addition to spacing, the proportions of the tails are an important matter and, to some extent,
personal. As the greatest guide.

The width of the pins must be less than the thickness of the wood used (Fig. 261). The pins
large ones have an ugly look that bigger tails do not have. In queue planning, think about
the end of the gluing. A gluing like in Fig. 262 does not present problems, but Fig. 263 requires a
more complex gluing procedure, possibly a two-stage operation.

When a groove, recess, molding, or inlay should be incorporated into a dovetail joint is
custom to mitigate the corner (Fig. 264). An alternative to this, generally reserved for the corners
rears where it is often used for slotted or recessed backs, is to reduce the thickness of a tail and
extend the corresponding shoulder line (Fig. 265).
Mark and cut the kite tails
The common kite tail or medium: this is illustrated in Fig. 266. The material for the kite tail
it must be produced very slightly thicker than the required thickness to allow for subsequent cleaning. The ends
they must have an excessive length of 1 mm (1 / 16in.). Preferably, one should shoot the ends to
to provide a good surface on which to mark and from which to measure. (Some workers prefer just to see
and then square instead of calibrate).

105
 Using the cutting gauge, mark a line at each end of each piece a thin one of 1 mm (1 /
16in.) Greater than the thickness of the corresponding piece (Fig. 267). The final pin should be slightly larger.
that half of the other laces (Fig. 268), so I drew a mark down with a pencil on each
Border about 3 mm (1 / 8 in.) from the edge. Increase this for a very wide joint. A
Once you have decided on the number of pins, divide with parallel lines as illustrated and draw on the lines.
centers. Set a sliding bevel at the angle of the dovetail (Fig. 269): a slope of 1 in 6
It is common for softwood and 1 in 8 for hardwood. For this purpose, a can be kept a
small piece of cape, properly marked. Alternatively, a tail marker can be made.
Milano (Fig. 270) made from metal sheet, plastic laminate or transparent acrylic sheet. Additionally
the ends of the marker serve as a small square.

106
 Complete the mark as in Fig. 268. Place the pins centrally on the pencil lines. If
it is possible, its width must be greater than the chisel. In forests with a feeling of 'soap' for them, that
the pencil and the brush don't get along well, I passed the sealing brush over the face to give the pencil a bite. Square the
lines in the final grain and shade the residues. This is important to avoid cutting the wrong part.
that the saw is on the wrong side of the line. The marked tails should now look like Fig. 271.

107
 He saw the tails up to but not straddling the line (Fig. 272A). It was not clear from the line with the
intention to reduce later; it is not as accurate as good sawing and is a waste of time. It is needed
a sharp saw, but it is not always necessary to use a dovetail saw. Given the difficulty of
sharpen very fine saws, keep the dovetail saw to make dovetails and use a saw of
tenon for the largest; most of the waste is removed with a saw. Saw down the center
towards the corners (Fig. 272B and C), which prevents damaging the corner with the back of the sheet, as would be
the case if the original saw cut were followed. Be careful to cut at the tail of the Milan. The pins
from the ends (Fig. 272D) are eliminated by cutting very close to the shoulder line and then trimming with
a chisel wider than the thickness of the wood.

When cutting the pins back to the line, a chisel with beveled edges should be used; a firmer chisel.
with square edges (Fig. 273) will damage the tail of the milan. The final fine cut is made with the chisel on the line

108
of measurement. Cut halfway on each side. Precision can be ensured by locking a
block along the caliber line (Fig. 274). It is worth making a permanent aid for this purpose.
Take a piece of fine glass paper placed slightly from the edges (Fig. 275).

To mark the pins, hold the components together (Fig. 276). Before marking, make sure that
the unions should be numbered or labeled with letters. Fig. 277 shows a helpful aid for tightening the components of
safe way while marking; a pair of these is required for a wide joint. Use a sharp punch to
the brand, or improvise using one made with an old steel needle or a very large darning needle. A
The dubbed version is useful for being placed in small cuts (Fig. 278). Some workers mark the grain.
Finally, to obtain clearer marks. Align these marks with the measurement lines on both sides and mark.
carefully the waste (Fig. 279). Make the vertical saw cuts and remove the waste as with
the edges. Assembly can be facilitated by slightly beveling the entry corners (Fig. 280).

109
 In theory, good Milano tails should only require gluing and hammering with a cramps hammer.
from the wooden block, but in practice it is generally necessary. cramps blocks (fig 281) are
they are prepared by tracing the tails of a kite and cutting on the 'wrong' side of the lines, giving a
series of pressure points just smaller than the tails of a kite. The blocks should be well with wax
to prevent adhesion.

After leveling the joints, always working inward and detaching.

the inner corners of pins and the tails with a chisel to prevent bursting outward.

An alternative method of joining is to prepare pins and the tails of a smaller hair than the
thickness of the wood, glue, cramps with the friction blocks, then skimmed the channel towards
down for the joints. But beginners are recommended to use the first method described, although
requires a little more work.

110
 Before assembly, if polishing, protect pins, the tails, and the skirting boards from the glaze by covering them with
adhesive tape. If being unpolished, there was a strip of adhesive tape up to the shoulder line to prevent the
Glue adheres. If Milan tails are not to be assembled immediately, what can they be?
protected against damage, particularly at vulnerable corners, by turns on a ribbon, the nails that
they enter among the queues of Milan (figure 282).

Mark and cut the tail ends.

The miter joint has three main applications: the lower joint of the channels, the upper joint of
the channels that have stops applied and the joint for the fronts of the boxes.

The marking and cutting is very similar in each case. At the bottom of the casing, it is customary to
reinforce the joint by placing a small dove-tail at each end (Fig. 283). The dove-tails
the remaining ones can be quite large and the pins can also be quite substantial.

The upper parts applied (i.e., not attached to the casing) can be inserted or protruding.
They are screwed to a front and rear rail and on rare occasions.

Cases to a central lane as well. Generally, a large Milano tail is used (Fig. 284).
Occasionally two tails are used. Often, the width of the rail is increased at the joint by the addition
from a triangular filet, which is shown dotted. This allows multiple tails to be arranged.

111
 The drawer joint (Fig. 285) is discussed later. The pins are generally much thinner.
that at the joints of the casing. In the Victorian era, cabinetmakers were obsessed with making pins
excessively thin, which, despite being a fine labor exercise, greatly reduced the
joint resistance.

112
 When making tailback plans, both ends, preferably on the shooting board. Calibrate the
component that contains the sockets with the cutting gauge (Fig. 286A), which is meticulously larger than the
thickness of the tail component, A. Adjust the gauge to the return distance, B, on both pieces. Cut the
Queues in the manner already described and then offer them to the corresponding component. The pairs must be
numbered or with letters before making any other mark (Fig. 287). Tighten the pieces and mark with a
sharp punch. Shade the waste and begin sawing. Once the pins are cut, most of
waste can be removed in various ways, such as the electric router with its fence, a drill
front or sawtooth on the drilling machine, the cutting saw cutting from corner to corner
or weakening it by cutting with the tenon saw (fig 288).

Complete the cuts with the chisel. First cut across the grain (Fig. 289A) then cut it as in a.
Continue in this manner until the final cut, B, followed by b. Previously, all the waste
they used to be removed by chisel just with a little peeling on the sides of the sockets. This method is still
uses for Milan queues too small to allow for mechanical waste removal. If the
the work is kept at a certain distance from the edge of the bench, as shown, the top of the bench
provides some guidance to the chisel, ayb, to keep it horizontal. The final cut, B, is made again.
against a narrow block.

Cleaning the corners presents a problem, especially in the case of small outlets.
Milano tail. For this, it is useful to grind a couple of chisels to a slightly greater angle than the tail angle.
from Milan (Fig. 290). They do a very clean job on the corners (Fig. 291). The tails can be
slightly bevel to facilitate the entry and gluing follows the same lines as for the tail of a swallowtail

113
common. In most cases, cramps will be necessary. The shortcut of using a set of blocks
Lisos just outside the tail of Milan (Fig. 292) can cause the fitted component to arch.

114
 Shelf
Shelves can be accessories, often helping to strengthen the casing, or they can be adjustable.
The first will be considered first. The simple or stopped housing joint (Fig. 293) does not have
resistance, as it is completely attached, but it prevents the platform from deforming. The tail housing of
Milan stronger or the conical tail casing of Milano is not a basic skill. The best method for the
The beginner task is to place the shelves on the sides. The dowels are especially suitable for the woods.
of coarser grain, the oak, the ash, the elm, and the chestnut, but not for the finer mahogany and woods
similar.

Figure 294 shows a poor example of tenoning. The very wide tenons cut so many fibers that the
the component is very weakened. Unfortunately, examples of this are common. The joint in Fig. 295
es constructivamente más sólida y estéticamente más agradable. La figura 296 muestra la forma más efectiva
from this joint, which combines a casing with the spikes. The front corner must stop to hide the
articulation. At the back, the joint may or may not stop, depending on the chosen preference and construction.

Fig. 297 shows a common variation where the shelf is pulled away from the front of the casing. This
it also allows for a trim on the edge of the shelf when the casing itself is smooth. It is essential when
install a door within the casing or when using sliding glass doors. The capacity for this is
Very simple. A block (Fig. 298) is produced with a thickness equal to the fit. This slides over the gauge.
of marked. The shelf is measured with the block and the sides of the casing without it.

115
 When the spikes are carried, giving a very strong casing, they are generally fitted (Fig. 299).
Fig. 300 shows how wedges are mass-produced from a small block, cut down to the

116
thickness of the spike. Make the cuts with a fine saw and then cut the entire strip. Do them
Individually peeling them with a chisel is a waste of time and can be dangerous. Please take note.
that the saw cuts are made for the wedges, which are not introduced at the ends of the mortise to the
way of the assembler. The mortise opens slightly to accept the wedges.

There are many methods for adjustable and removable shelf support that include a wide variety of
commercial systems. One of the simplest is Fig. 301. However, this does not prevent the shelf from
slips when in use. This defect can be fixed by attaching a small strip to the back edge of the shelf
to fit in a space behind the carrier (Fig. 302). In a backless housing, a strip is needed.
similar in the front part (Fig. 303). This has the additional advantage that a more
thin for the shelf while maintaining the appearance of thickness. It may be necessary to mold this
thickened edge.

For a better quality job, a more sophisticated method is recommended. Fig. 304 shows notches.
cut at the bottom of the shelf to accommodate turned support bolts (Fig. 305). Generally, these
they are 13 mm (1/2 inch) in diameter with a 6 mm (1/4 inch) plug. Generally, the stick is chosen
rosewood or a similar exotic wood.

It is worth making a metal perforation band for adjustable shelves (Fig. 306). It will always be
useful again. Carefully mark the top and then screw the strip in place. Drill all the
holes using an electric drill with a depth stop. Insert two metal or wooden dowels
Next to the screws for placing the strip, remove the screws and drill the other two holes.

117
 There are a number of other variations of shelves that beginners may find practically valuable.
for example, when displaying porcelain plates on a sideboard. For this purpose, a groove is worked.
which can be from 6 mm (1/4 inch) to 25 mm (1 inch) wide. Alternatively, it can be
attach a small edge (Fig. 308). Shelves with open backs can be equipped with an edge to
keep the books or other items in place (Fig. 309). A deep shelf can be equipped with a stopper
adjustable (Fig. 310) to keep the small books aligned at the front edge.
Backs of the cabinet
A Victorian book on cabinet making indicates that the back of a cabinet or a
The channel must be framed and have panels: "in the lower work, a tongue and a groove can be placed.
at the back." Since those days, the back of the tongue and the slot have become
respectable, preferred to the back parts. veneered plywood, plywood
Lisa, agglomerate, hardboards or no backing at all. The variety of backs and their adjustment methods.
They are, therefore, considerable and worth exploring. The casing itself is supposed to be made of

118
solid wood and that all the work can be done with hand tools or with machine tools
simple. In none of the examples given here are the backups glued to the casing or the panels glued.
to the frame.

Figure 311 shows a quite typical bookshelf with the shelves removed. The back
consists of a frame with a support center and four horizontal rails. Six panels are slotted in the
Marco. A framed backing of this type is the most effective way to reinforce a channel. Fig. 312
shows a section of a grooved frame that takes flush panels, the most refined and advanced method,
that provides a smooth surface inside the cabinet. When making a flush panel with a border, it is advisable
carefully increase the thickness of the panel so that after gluing it can be cleaned exactly to the
level of the frame. The cord must be scratched or cut well below the finished surface to avoid the
risk of it aligning over her when cleaning the surface.

119
 The panel in Fig. 313 is made of solid wood that is either expanded or tapered at the edges with a cat plane.
to fit into the slot. The fielding would be at the back or outside. A simpler way (Fig. 314)
It is a panel of solid wood or veneered. In each of these forms, the grain would run horizontally.
When using the flat or field panel, it is recommended to shape the horizontal rails in the figure.
314, whether with a bezel or a round quarter. This seems less aggressive, collects less dust and is more
easy to clean.

The frame can be mounted in the housing in various ways. In the simplest one (Fig. 315), the smooth frame is
adjusts in a reduction in the casing and is held by countersunk screws (brass for quality work
quality) slightly angled. But the effect of this method is to move the first kite tail quite
far from the edge, thus weakening the joint. A better method (Figs. 316 and 317) is to also bounce the frame,
what allows the tail of the Milano joint to be placed closer to the edge, making a stronger joint.
Fig. 318 shows how the recess allows the housing for a shelf to pass directly through the part
back, which makes it easier to cut when working with one hand or an electric router.

120
 In Fig. 319, the back is grooved. The rebate is worked on the outside of the frame.
shaping the tab to fit into the slot of the casing. This is an orderly arrangement, but complicates
the cutting of the shelf housings. A combination of groove and recess (Fig. 320) simplifies
the cutting of the casings. A small account is sometimes worked in the channel; If so, it must be below
the line of the shelf casing.

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 The bottom shelf or the back of the case is usually placed back in line with the groove or
the slot and the back screws directly to this (Fig. 321), which makes gluing easier.
simple. The casing is just glued, the back is applied later.

Measures should be taken for the slot or the casing at the corner joints of the channel. Fig. 322
shows a back corner of the mitre, commonly used through the articulation tails or the
comb unions (fingers). Alternatively, a swallowtail (or sometimes a pin) can be shortened
to take and hide a slot (Fig. 323); a dovetail joint, as in a drawer, is handled from
In a similar manner. A double-loop Milano tail is a slightly simpler situation for grooving,
since the slot can pass through both components, remaining completely hidden when it
Assemble the joint (Fig. 324). A rebate with this joint can only be fixed through the corner. Of
agreement with the relative thicknesses on the side and the top of the channel, this may or may not be 45° (Fig. 325).
The lower corners can be treated in the same way, but it is more common to replace the background of
the casing as has already been described.

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123
 A framed backing can simply be placed in a channel. Although it is common at this time.
Victorian, this method is not used frequently now, except in the construction of detachable cabinets.
It is simply shown in Fig. 326a, but in 326b and 326c it has been treated with much more subtlety.

As an alternative to grooving, an angled rebate can be cut into the housing (Fig. 327), with the frame
at an angle to match the shape of a dovetail housing. An electric router with a
milan tail cutter will produce a very precise refund. Using a very fine smoothing plane, the
Marco can be facilitated for a very fine adjustment (Fig. 328). This is not commonly used but is very
cash.

The tongue and the slot at the back (Fig. 329) can be made of the same material as the housing or
of contrasting wood. Cedar is particularly attractive for the back of the channel and emits a scent
pleasant. Fig. 330 shows the lower fixing, similar to that of the framed backrest. The tongue and the groove
Backwards require very careful planning, preferably full size for a job.
of quality. The final two tables are different.

From the central panels and among themselves. Figure 331 clarifies this and provides the calculations to obtain
the sizes of the components. Consideration must be given to the possibility of slight expansion. Contraction
it is quite easy to conceal due to the chosen decoration style. Figure 332 provides some alternative shapes.

124
 None of these solutions is ideal in cases where the top and sometimes also the bottom
The bottom of a channel overlaps on the side. This situation is common in constructions with pins.
Aunque se puede hacer un surco detenido en la parte superior con un enrutador eléctrico, los métodos
traditional ones that use the plow plane or even a small circular saw make this a bit
complicated. It is always preferable to execute a groove through. A good alternative is to place a rail.
narrow striped at the top and bottom (Fig 333). In wall cabinets, this creates a rail for
very convenient hanging. This style accepts all types of panels described so far. Figures 334 and
335 indicate how a similar rail can be placed on each shelf, making it possible to adjust panels.
individuals or build a tongue and groove from very short components.

125
 The real presentation panels are produced on elements that will be viewed from all sides, for
example, the pedestal desk. Framed backs are almost always the rule here. The panels are
generally of stepped field (Fig. 336), although both the embedded panels and the molded ones are
suitable. The raised panels (Fig. 337) are another possibility; they are thick, heavy, and expensive in wood.
but they can be built more cheaply from a thinner material (Fig. 338). The panels of
slot and tongue flush, not necessarily in conventional forms (Fig. 339), are another. The placement
The loose tongues on identical slotted sticks greatly simplify the tongue and groove joint.

Plywood panels are, of course, a much simpler job (Fig. 340),

although a good quality of layers and sheets is needed for the best kind of work. A recommendation is made for a
minimum thickness of 6 mm (1/4in.) For all channels, except the smallest ones. The connection is easier,
the back of the layer is simply grooved or sliced. Since the layer is more flexible than a frame
tongue and groove boards, it is advisable to also screw in the

126
 Shelves or central partition. Plywood doesn't hold up very well, so it is recommended
the recessed or raised head screws along with the bronze screw washers.

127
128
 When a polished layer slides back, or in that case a recessed back part with panels,
up to its place in the slots, there is a possibility that the back of the shelf may scratch the panel. This can
avoid placing the shelves very slightly back from the slot, although if the plywood is
curved, it can still be scratched. A better method is to attach small tabs of the card to the back edge.
from the shelf with plastic tape (Fig. 341). These act as separators and can be removed when the
the back part is in its place.

Fig. 342 shows how a groove can be created by screwing a loose thread into the casing. The idea
it allows a panel with slots to be installed after the casing has been glued. It can be quite
Flat and level after the fixation or a small account can be worked to mask the joint.
The method is useful when it is necessary to fit a back part to a piece without a previously supported backing.

129
 The glued gutter
Unless there is a large amount of cramps available and several helpers on hand, the
glue should be kept as simple as possible. Several small operations involving, for example,
Four strap cramps are easier and less problematic than a massive adhesive with a large weight.
from hardware store. All interiors must be cleaned, finishing with a scraper and then with sandpaper grits.
of increasingly finer glass. The polishing process must be completed, during which the tails,
spikes, the mortars, and the shells must be protected with cellulose tape or masking tape.

A complete dry cramp must be made, verifying that all tools, the blocks of
cramps (slightly bent) and the equipment that will likely be needed is on hand, including the
winding strips and a diagonal ribbon. More wedges should be made than are actually needed and they
They must be kept in a safe container with a hammer nearby. Speed is essential in a large channel.
gluing. A manufacturer of adhesives gives an assembly time of 10 minutes; The movement of the
joints after that will affect adherence. The adherents of the Scotch tape need a workshop
and a warm installation without drafts to heat the gluing areas; Some workers now
they do this with an electric paint remover. Two sawn stools or folding sawhorses hold
the casing is very good, providing space for the wiring bars and access throughout the entire route.

130
 Before disassembling for gluing, rub the wax polish into all the corners. This prevents the
exuded glue sticks. If the interior has been varnished, the wax can be easily removed with alcohol.
white, since washing the glue with hot water can leave permanent residues. Obviously, it is
it's better to have a groove or rebate prepared instead of one glued, as this simplifies the gluing.

A simple box (Fig. 343) poses no problems. Supported on benches or boxes, the part
superior and inferior can be joined together by vertical joints. One or two vertical partitions (Fig.
They can be treated in the same way.

The introduction of fixed shelves complicates things. In the first phase, the shelves are attached to the
sides with horizontal cramps.

The upper and lower parts hit dry (Fig 345a). In the second stage (Fig. 345b), the part
superior and inferior are glued with vertical cramps.

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 Figure 346a illustrates these two characteristics together. The joints in the vertical partition need a
careful planning. It is necessary to stagger the pegs of each pair of shelves (Fig. 346b). In the first
stage, take the shelves, the sides and the partition with the top and bottom dry (Fig. 347a). In the
second stage, add the top and bottom part (Fig. 347b). Gluing is easier when the shelves
they are staggered. The partition and one side are the first stage of gluing (Fig. 348), followed by the second
extreme (Fig. 349), both with the top and the bottom dry. The top and bottom follow the
third stage, as in Fig. 347b. When planning the adjustable shelves, the gluing is much simpler.
large channels like tall bookshelves, making one or more shelves as accessories adds rigidity to the box, while
that the rest are adjustable.

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 When wedges are used, notched blocking calipers are necessary (Fig. 350). The channel is glued.
Without the wedges, the square and the wind are checked, and one by one the blocks slide sideways, only
enough for the wedges to be inserted and then returned.

In addition to checking the fit of the joints, check the housing to see if it is warped or square. Use
large winding strips to check the torsion, and be careful not to collect glue. A square
trial does not provide enough accuracy, therefore try the quadrature with a diagonal strip
pointed and a pencil (Fig. 351). If two marks are made, the true diagonal is halfway between
them, so I slightly adjusted the cramps blocks to achieve this. A layout of cramps (see

133
Fig. 255) of heavy wooden blocks, 12 mm (1/2 in.) bolted bars with nuts and washers, is
a useful substitute for the cramps of the sheet or can complement them. It is particularly convenient for
anyone who works without help.

The cleaning follows the usual pattern of sharp leveling plane, possibly scraper or scrapper.
followed by the degrees of glass paper. Flat inwards on the milano tails. The farthest corner
(Fig. 352) must be beveled with a chisel to prevent the final grain from popping below the surface
finished; the same applies through tenons.

The hardened glue should detach from the waxed inner corners with just the corner of
a chisel to help you. It is not common to finish the exterior polishing until all other work, such as
the adjustment of doors and drawers should be complete.

Types of door
When making smooth or flush doors, the obvious choice of material seems to be a solid wood board.
well chosen (Fig. 353). However, this is not a solution as the wood can swell or shrink,
damaging the fit or deforming, making any adjustment impossible. A stable door can be made and
lightweight suitable for painting or low-quality work from a miter frame to which two sheets are glued
thin layer (Fig. 354).

In Fig. 355 a heavier and sturdier door is shown. Here, a stronger frame is

134
embedded or fitted together with two layers.

Additional cross members are added to reinforce the door. Air holes are drilled in
los miembros transversales y en el riel inferior para igualar la presión de aire dentro y fuera. Dichos miembros
transversals should not be too far apart, nor should the layer be too thin (minimum 6 mm (1/4
Otherwise, you may see a print of the framing.

A multi-layer or block panel door is extremely stable, but the edges are not.
they are attractive and do not hold the hinge screws well.

That door is generally closed (Fig. 356). The lipping can be butted or mitered at the corners.
The tongue is essential for good adhesion, particularly in the final grain of the block board.
The lip can be applied to the coated material, but for better work, the formwork is concealed by covering.
the entire face after the edges have been stuck and brushed flush. The edges must be made of
completely dry material; otherwise, it will shrink and show through the sheet.

High-quality manual work frequently makes use of the framed and paneled door (Fig.
357), whose inner edge is molded or beveled. The following illustrations show some of the
possible combinations of frame and panel.

135
136
137
138
139
 Door frame

Grooved construction: the previous section showed some of the possibilities for the framed door.
and with panels. The construction methods are all very similar, and they are conveniently divided into
folded panels and slotted panels.

The simplest form (Fig. 379) is a panel fitted to a frame with flat grooves. Prepare the
brackets and the rails to the width and thickness, mark the length from the casing on a support (Fig. 380) and the
shoulder length on a rail (Fig. 381). Make a very small allowance for cleaning and adjustment.
Remove the uprights to mark them (Fig. 382) and separate them. Establish a mortise gauge for the chisel.
chosen and sized the mortises (Fig. 383). The mortise must be the same width as the slot or wider. No
It is necessary to calibrate the slot, although two pencil marks can serve as a reminder. Now they can be
chisel the mortises and work on the hip bases (Fig. 384).

140
 Likewise, tighten the rails and adjust them to the shoulder and pin length (Fig. 385).
Separate the rails, align the lines, and cut the waste (Fig. 386). Gauge the plugs, use the same
caliber configuration and shade the waste (Fig. 387). He saw the cheeks of the spikes (Fig. 388), but did not
do nothing but the ears at this stage.

Now work on the slots, using a plow or grooving plane, a milling machine, or a circular saw.
producing studs as in Fig. 379 and rails as in Fig.

389. Offer a rail to a post (Fig. 390) and mark the position of the hip. Set an indicator.
from this and mark all the ears in a similar way. Use a small block the size of the depth
from the slot to mark the hip length (Fig. 391). Remove the hook to produce the final spike
(Fig. 379).

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 This construction produces a rather austere door that is difficult to embellish. However, there are two
possibilities. The stopped chamfer (Figs. 392 and 393) is popular among artisans who work in the tradition
of the Movement of Arts and Crafts, especially in oaks, elms, ashes, and similar native woods. The
quarter circles in the corners are cut with a small knife. A good amount of practice is needed.
before tackling the real work. Figure 392 also illustrates a design detail. A simpler alternative,
a decreasing chamfer (Fig. 394) can be executed using only a flat-faced radius wave. Although the
Upper rail often has the same width as the studs, a stronger joint is obtained if it is a little
wider. The bottom rail must always be wider to compensate for the shortening effect when
look down at the door. A possible exception to this is when the door is placed above the level
from the eyes.

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143
144
 An additional ornament can be provided by working a molding on the inner edge (Fig. 395); This
it is known as a 'stuck' molding. Interestingly, this is not covered in most textbooks. The
the marking of the uprights is the same as that of the flat frame, although the rails are also marked with the
depth of the molding (Fig. 396). For convenience, this is the same as the depth of the groove.
Calibrate the mortises and chop as before. Remember that the depth of the hip is measured from the part.
lower part of the frame (Fig. 397). Square around each rail (Fig. 398), the shoulder line advancing
forward, that is, the true face. Calibrate the spike and mark the residues (Fig. 399). I only saw the
cheeks (fig 400). At this stage, all the grooves are cut and the moldings are worked using a router or
scoring tool. Mark the hip as with the smooth frame, using a small tracing block a
a little wider. Fig. 401 shows the molding on the uprights that have been cut back to just below
from the end of the mortise. All the ends of the molding are mitigated by a careful cut with a
sharp chisel and a miter gauge (Fig. 402). This can be purchased or made from hardwood (Fig. 403).

Construction with reduction: this construction (Fig. 404) is similar to the previous one, but a certain amount is required
Be careful in the marking as the longer shoulder is now at the back.

Produce rails and rails to their finished width and thickness, then measure the reduction sizes on the edge.
true and on the back, that is, not on the true face (Fig. 405). Mark the length of the stud
with tolerance (Fig. 380), tighten all the uprights and mark the joint (Fig. 406). Mark the length of
shoulder of a rail with tolerance, then tighten the rails and mark the dowels (Fig. 407).

Separate all components, and remove the waste from the spikes (Fig. 408), then calibrate both the
notches (Fig. 409) like the spikes (Fig. 410). To avoid complications, one of the measuring lines
must align with the measurement of the reduction. Cut the lapels and work on the hip bases (Fig. 411). Saw
the cheeks and shoulders of the ear (Fig. 412), but do nothing else at this stage.

145
 Discounts can now be shaped by hand using a rebate or a shoulder plane, or
mechanically through router, planer or circular saw. This completes the studs (Fig. 413) and takes
the spikes to the stage shown in Fig. 414. Mark the adjustment for the hip (Fig. 415) and mark your
length from a template (Fig. 416). In the case of a poor fit, it is easier to shave off the style than
to trim a shoulder.

146
147
 The frame with a rebate with a 'stuck' molding (Fig. 417) is, in fact, a simpler mark, always
that the depth of the molding is equal to the depth of the recess. Mark and cut the studs as in
Fig. 418 and the rails as in Fig. 419.

Work on the rebates and the moldings to obtain Figs. 420 and 421 and then cut the tabs. Remove the
frame of the stiles for the length of the mortise. Make several saw cuts through the frame
(Fig. 422) and then cut them to the rebate level (Fig. 423). Miter all the ends of the molding (Figs. 424 and
402)
The installation of a door

Most doors are installed flush and within the casing (Fig. 425). This requires a
door and a very well-made casing, both free of warps, as the errors of warping do not
they can be corrected. Alternatively, the door may be slightly inserted (Fig. 426) or well placed
slightly proud or prominent (Fig. 427) With these last two, a small amount of twist will not be so
notable.

In the Victorian era, doors were often "set" at the front of a trough (Fig.
428). There is now an increasing use of this method by artisans. It is of utmost importance that
There should be no twist in the vertical members of the casing. This must be checked before gluing.
carefully with the larger and more convenient rolling strips.

148
 This planted door has several advantages besides a simpler adjustment method. Fig. 429 shows
two identical glass-fronted cabinets, with the door placed within the casing (A) and with the door
placed (B). (The installation of the glass is addressed at the end of the following chapter). Both door frames are made of
the same dimensions. The planted door has a comparatively lighter appearance. When it opens
a door placed at a 90 ° angle moves away from the side of the channel (Fig. 430). This is particularly useful for
make it possible to easily remove the final volume of a row of books. A door installed within a
canal (Fig. 431) requires 180° of movement, often inconvenient, to provide this feature.

149
 When hanging an interior door (Fig. 432), first place the hinge stile 1. Both the groove
as the upright should be straight, but if the channel is a little out of true, plane the upright so that
fitting. Once the horns are cut, the uprights will be a little too long for the opening, but
the adjustment can still be achieved. Next, make a plan of the bottom edge, 2, to fit the angle of
the casing, which should not be entirely at 90°. Then, plane the top, 3, so it fits with two thicknesses
of cartridge paper or a very thin card under the lower edge; This will create space to stop the
door scraping. The larger the door, the thicker the card. Finally, plan the edge of
closure, 4. For a comfortable opening, this will eventually be slightly tilted (Fig. 433). The door
Once installed, it can be easily removed by inserting a screw into the final position of the knob, handle, or eye.
of the lock.

The flush door is installed in the same manner. When the top and bottom do not protrude,
the closing edge can be finished after the joint.

150
151
 Door hinges
Most doors are equipped with stop hinges (Fig. 434); for the best work
quality, they must be made of solid drawn brass, not folded or simply plated. The illustration shows the
two styles: the wide suite, manufactured (B), and the narrow suite (A), the latter is more commonly used for
furniture. The wide type of set is useful when a door is slightly open, because in this case,
if a narrow set hinge is used, it is likely that the screws will be too close to the edge of
the channel.

Three calibration adjustments will be used on the brand (Fig. 435, A, B, and C). Three separate gauges, although
they are not essential, save time and restart. Please note that in setting A, the point of
Measurement should be just below the center of the hinge pin; 1 mm (1/32 in.) is correct.

The location of the hinges is important, particularly for their appearance. On a framed door,
the hinge aligns with the inner edge of the rail (Fig. 436A). In a flush door, the hinge is placed
generally in its own length from the end (Fig. 436B). The same rules apply to the hinges
from a mounted door (Fig. 437). The hinges allow both the door and the casing (Fig. 438A) to enter.
interrupt the straight line between the door and the casing. In Fig. 438B, the hinge is left only on the door, which
that preserves the continuous line, a more pleasant effect.

First mark the door (fig. 439). The length is taken from the hinge and marked with a knife and a
square. Measure the width of the hinge, A, at the edge and from the outside, that is, the true face. Measure
the thickness, B, on the face. It is vital that this size is not exceeded, otherwise the door will not close.
completely; if it is slightly lower, the lesser evil, there will be a space between the door and the casing that
An excessive base should be packed with sheet metal or card, or filled and started over.
everything unpleasant.

The skirting board is formed by making several saw cuts (Fig. 440) and then removing the waste with a

152
wide chisel (Fig. 441). Note that the base decreases in depth towards the back, where it ends
up to a depth C, the thickness of the hinge leaf. Obviously, this cannot be measured, it must be
finding by testing the hinge. A hole too deep here will not affect the door closing, but only
its appearance. however, the tip of the knuckle is more critical, as has already been mentioned. A block
Tightened at the door will prevent the chisel from accidentally breaking.

Brass hinges need brass screws. With very hard woods, it is easier to insert first.
the steel ones, preferably a smaller gauge; these are replaced by brass when completed
the hinge. Hinges sometimes require additional countersinking to ensure that the head does not feel
Proud. I temporarily installed the hinges on the door with a single screw in place.

153
 The door with its hinges is located in the casing, standing on a thickness of the packing card.
Mark the position of the hinge on the casing and remove the door. Align these marks on the inside and measure the
width of the hinge, A (Fig. 442). Cut a chisel slightly along the grain in the manner of the cuts.
From the saw in Fig. 440, remove most of the waste and carefully trim the base to the lines.
The maximum depth (Fig. 443B) is the total thickness of the hinge leaf (Fig. 435B). Again, a slight
excess will not damage the connection. Nothing should be removed at the edge of the channel. Secure the hinge with a screw. Be careful
Note that the guide holes for the screws must be drilled at a right angle with the sloped bottoms.
from the shots, not with the face of the casing.

Test the door for the fit; a thin strip of paper should pass between the hinge post and the
case. The closing style may now require a bend, at a slight angle. The strange shaving may
It may be necessary in other places, but with precise marking and careful work, this should be minimal.

For the best quality work, the hinges must now be unscrewed and the rough scratches
they must be removed from the knuckles with successively finer grades of sandpaper, then polished
metallic. In the final screwing, use brass screws and align all their grooves in the same way.

154
 If a stop is needed, it can be made in the same way as a drawer stop.

Common failures in door installation are that the door is "screwed in," where the heads
the protruding screws prevent the hinge from closing, or 'the hinge' where the baseboard has been cut more
deeper than the total thickness of the hinge.
Ball hooks
The method generally followed when installing a ball seal (Fig. 444) is to drill the door.
en el borde de cierre, ya sea arriba o abajo. Para eliminar el desgaste, se coloca una placa de latón en la carcasa.
This has a projection tab that is often too long and has to be filed away in order to
fitting. In general, this tongue is slightly bent to facilitate entry, so it is necessary
cut the edge of the case a little more. the

The presence of this strike plate can damage the appearance of the door and a better alternative
(assuming the casing is thick enough) is to sink the latch into the casing and place the plate
by knocking on the door so that nothing can be seen (Fig. 445). It can be done more often in a piece
framed with square legs in a herringbone casing.

As much of the polishing will have been done before this stage, adhesive tape strips can be used.
to take the necessary markings.

Close the door and mark the door and channel. Open the door and square at the inner edges. Measure the
center of the door and with the same configuration in the channel. Adjust as needed for insertion
or door beginning (Fig 446).

Drill for ball capture, first take a shallow hole for the flange then a
deep hole for the barrel. Use a bit of hand or machine; spiral drill of an engineer
With its chunky point, it will not start accurately. Place the striking plate over the marked area and the screw.
in its place. Write around, remove, cut the casing and replace as necessary. A shallow dent
It can be pierced to grab the ball. (Warning: If the controller or lock has not been equipped yet.
make sure that a small screw is temporarily placed in that position otherwise the door will be
extremely difficult to open.)

155
 Mounting locks
The straight closure of the wardrobe is screwed directly into the inside of the door without preparation, so
a description of the method is not required. For quality work, something better is needed. This is the
brass cut lock (Fig. 447): 'cut' means cut in the door. The cut drawer lock is
similar, except that the keyhole is at right angle to that of the cabinet lock. When buying
a lock for a wardrobe, specify if it is right-handed or left-handed.

Prepare to dial by placing a dial gauge at the key pin distance (Fig.
Mark the chosen position for the keyhole with a square on the front of the door and
then take it to the edge. The gauge marks the distance from the edge (Fig. 449). In this

drill a very small pilot hole for the pin. Offer the lock to the centerline and mark
the length of the box at the edge of the door (Fig. 450).

This is an essential method because in some locks the pin is not in any way in the
middle of the lock. Mark this primary cavity with a square and caliber. Weaken the wood with a
series of diagonal saw cuts. The waste can be removed with a chisel. Use the handheld router.
simple to complete the process in depth (Fig. 451).

Keep the lock in place and write around it. Remove the debris to produce the
second cavity (Fig. 452). The keyhole can now be shaped using a drill more
large and a coping saw. It can be finished with a round and a thin protective file.
The keychain is often left like this, but to avoid wear when inserting the key, a can be placed.
Shield. The brass insert (Fig. 453) requires that the opening be carefully removed until it can be
press the big button with a G-shock. Alternatively, an ebony veneer plate can be made,
rosewood, bone, ivory, etc., and let it enter through the door, whether blushing or slightly proud. It is
a great variety of forms is possible (for example, Fig. 454).

156
157
 To place a drawer or to block it, the routine is practically the same. The socket for the
The bolt must be cut in the casing. The door closes with the bolt facing outward, from where it can be
take the length mark. The width marks can be made with a marking gauge.

158
 Generally, the points of a mortise gauge do not close sufficiently. Leave an adequate margin.
para una entrada o puerta de entrada. Un método alternativo preferido por algunos trabajadores ahora es
completely ink the end of the bolt with a thick felt marker and make an impression
quickly before the ink dries, either on the wood or on a piece of adhesive tape. A plate of
brass can be embedded in the housing to extract the pin. Unfortunately, these are not usually available.
sale with the lock and must be handcrafted individually (Fig. 455). (Making one by hand is a
easy work: I saw a piece of thin brass, throw it to shape it and drill holes for the screws.
Cabinet bases
There is a considerable selection of bases for cabinets, wardrobes, shelves, drawers, and furniture.
similar. Figure 456 shows a typical feces base. This is completely simple, since the
The construction of the standard table is already described. In general, the feces are projected slightly. A simple
The frame at the top edge (Fig. 457) combines the stool and the casing. An inserted stool, popular long ago
some years, it does not give such an appearance of stability, nor does it offer protection to the tails of the lower part of the
turn, always vulnerable to brooms and cleaners (Fig. 458). The insertion rails, polished before the
glued, they accelerate the operation but do not mix easily when out of the casing (Fig. 459). The
The base of the box (Fig. 460) is an old and well-proven solution. Traditionally, the corners
forecasts were of secret angle. This is not done often these days, and in no way is it a
basic skill. The rear corners usually fit around the turn (Fig. 461).

The simplest front corner joint is a precisely planed miter joint, glued (Fig. 462) and
then reinforced with a corner fillet attached (Fig. 463). In addition, the miter joint can be reinforced with
a plywood tongue (Fig. 464). This is not really a manual process, but the slots
they can be cut with a small saw or with an electric router using a simple 45° template. Both
methods can also be used on the back.

In a cabinet with a thick appearance, like oak, elm, or ash, the front corner of the baseboard
it can be through a milano queue, and an alternative to this is the joining of the comb (or finger); both are
They are shown in Fig. 465A and B. A series of machines provide facilities for cutting the comb joint,
but with a simple help it can be cut in most sawmills (Appendix G shows one of
these arrangements). Very wide comb joints present some difficulties in the configuration. By hand,

159
the union of the comb is just slightly easier to cut than the tail of the common kite which certainly has more
aesthetic appeal. A compromise can be achieved between the two by making a miter joint and then reinforcing it.
with triangular keys (Fig. 466). Appendix F provides a device for making the grooves. The
Figure 467 shows a solution halfway between the stool and the base, consisting of a leg of
front block transformed and a rear rail fitted.

160
 A channel that has been given heavy treatment can be stood on block feet (Fig. 468). It
they require connection rails for this. The front can be through a pin if other joints are in the work
they are through some.

161
 Several shapes are given for the fronts (Fig. 469). The back rail can still be attached to the return.
Fig. 470 shows block feet to which the cross rails are attached with half-turn joints,
and its ends are treated decoratively.

The stools, pedestals, and locking legs are connected by contraction buttons.
(see page 113). The baseboard can be left or cut in one of several decorative shapes, as suggested
Fig. 460. This treatment has the additional advantage that, by providing four feet, it can reduce the
balancing on an irregular floor.

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163
 Chapter 4
Drawers, handles, and boxes
Making a drawer

A well-fitted drawer can be compared to a piston working in a cylinder. For a drawer

it fits well, it's not only important that the drawer itself is absolutely precise on the outside, but that
Equally important is the accuracy of the opening in which it must slide. Therefore, when placing a
case, great care must be taken to ensure that the drawer opening is large enough at the back
from the work as in the front part.

In fact, to ensure a really good fit, it is better to leave a very slight space at the top.
rear, both in height and width. This will ensure that the drawer will not form a wedge at the part
back and will allow the case to tilt slightly inward.

The amount of this separation is directly related to the length of the side of the drawer (Fig.
471), but on the longer side it should never exceed 1 mm (1 / 32in.) on each side of the drawer; an amount
the mayor would allow the drawer to wobble even when it is almost closed. In the type of work in which it
they use the drawer slides, this space can be easily obtained (in width, but not in height) by adjusting
the guides when the drawer is placed. Any twist in the casing or the frame will also cause it to jam
drawer.

Test the accuracy of a job while it is being built. Take a small strip of wood from
approximately 3 mm (1 / 8in.) square and cut it to size to fit in the front of the
opening in which the drawer will slide. Push it back, where it should be much looser. This
The 'caliber' test must be applied both horizontally and vertically, and it must also be applied at the stage.
of gluing when distortion caused by cramps can occur.

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 The joints on the previous pages show the various joints used in the construction of
drawers. The front joints are normal cohesive joints and, as they are exposed to view when opened,
Cajóns must be both decorative and strong, with the fasteners not too large, let's say 3 mm (1/8).
thickness at its thinnest point. The practice of some artisans is to make this dimension the
as small as possible, in fact, just the thickness of a dovetail saw. This makes the pins
they appear "floating" or separate from the rest of the front part and, therefore, generally outside of
proportion with the rest of the board.

The Milan tail crossbars - at the back has a particular arrangement to allow the
fixing the bottom of the drawer. The upper edge of the back is adjusted downwards around
3 mm (1/8 in.), and the bottom edge is raised so that the bottom of the drawer can slide underneath.
about her. These spaces located above and below the back allow air to flow in
and how the drawer moves. A larger space at the top would allow for papers and other objects.
planes that fall on the back; 3 mm (1/8 in.) is wide.

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 Bottom of the drawer: the method for securing the bottom of the drawer to one side generally depends
of the material used or the quality of the work. Fig. 473 shows three commonly used methods
Accepted. Method A is used in higher quality work, and this method must use solid wood.
for the bottom. If plywood were used, the top veneer layer could splinter along the
shoulder.

This method is suitable for desk drawers where papers and flat objects are stored. B is used
in large drawers to store clothes, etc. It is something stronger than A that has a larger slot and, therefore
so much, it can support more weight. Method C is simple and straightforward, but the absence of a slip from
the drawer will cause the side edge to wear out quickly. This is usually countered by increasing
the thickness of the side, but this gives the drawer a heavy and clumsy appearance. This method is used in carpentry,
cabinetmaking and kitchen furniture.

The bottom plays an important role in the construction of a box. Its front edge has tabs.
and it is glued to the front part of the drawer, so that the bottom will support the entire frame of the drawer
true and square (see the box Fig. 472). It also keeps the sides straight, which helps to
the drawer functions evenly. Where solid wood is used, the grain should run from side to side of the
drawer. The bottom should not be glued along the slides as movement must be allowed.
shrinkage. To secure it along the back edge, the bottom is a screwed slot (wood)
massive) or screwed (plywood) to the bottom of the back of the drawer (Fig. 474).
Where solid wood is used, the back edge is left protruding about 3 mm (1/8 inch). When the drawer
it is very large (for example, in a dresser), the back is not made of a single piece, as this would tend to
to bend or split in the center. It divides into two, or even three parts, and the muntins fit between them.
These are like very wide slides, except they are not flush with the bottom edge of the drawer. They are
fitted and screwed to the front of the drawer and secured underneath the back of the drawer with
screws (Fig. 475).

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 Method of doing
First, mark the pieces in their respective positions on the wood. Fig 476 shows the marking.
traditional, and allows any number of drawers to be made at the same time without confusing the parts of the
different drawers. The sides of the drawer must be arranged so that the brushing direction is as
It is shown by the arrows. This will be very helpful when assembling the drawer.

Front of the drawer: plan the interior of the front part of the true drawer, checking the
twisting. This is important because a twisted front, being the thickest part, will cause the entire box to
twist it and it won't be able to run easily. Align the bottom edge in a straight line and wash the groove to take the
drawer bottom. Firmly adjust the front part, resting its bottom edge on the drawer rail. In a
wide drawer, the top edge can be left further ahead in case there is any shrinkage
(Fig. 477 A).

Back part of the drawer: plane the back to the width and thickness and round the top edge.
Place it firmly at the front of the drawer opening, supporting its bottom edge on the rail of the
drawer. It will then have exactly the same length as the front of the drawer (Fig. 477 B).

Drawer sides: plane the sides to 1 mm (1/32 in.) more than the required thickness. It is essential to use a
test plan for this operation. No drawer will function easily if the sides are curved, and in the
interior surface the absolute flatness will facilitate the fixing of the slips. Then make a plan of the
straight lower edges and fit the sides firmly in their respective positions (Fig. 477). Square the

167
sides along to allow a space of 13 mm (1/2 inch) at the back of the drawer. It is advisable
join the two sides for this, so that their ends are identical. This will help prevent the drawer from
return.

Calibrate: calibrate the four pieces with a cutting gauge for the joints. When calibrating the front part.
And for the thickness of the sides, set the gauge to 1 mm (1/32 in.) less than the current thickness of the wood.
Therefore, the milano tails will rise 1 mm (1/32 in.) above the final grain of the pins.
so that when this excess thickness is removed, the drawer will have the exact size needed (Fig. 478).

168
 Cut the joints, clean and polish the internal surfaces of the drawer and glue them. Do not leave any cramps in the
drawer since it could distort the sides. With joints that fit reasonably, it should be
enough to gently squeeze the glue and then remove the cramps. Check the set to see
if it is good and bends, let it dry.

Drawer slides: these often present some difficulty for the beginner, as they are small.
and difficult to hold when the slot is carved. They are much easier to make when using a piece of
wide wood. Plane the two straight edges, make the necessary grooves, and then cut the required width (Fig.
When making type B in Fig. 473, the fourth round must be worked before cutting the slip. A method
convenient for making slides is to allow enough additional width on each side of the drawer for a
slide. The groove is carved and the slide is cut before placing the side of the drawer (see Fig. 479). The placement
slips on the sides of the drawer generally present difficulties for the beginner. They are needed
many cramps, and cramps often cause the slip to slip out of position. If your
The bonding surface is planned once with a test plane, and the glue is hot and thin, the
sliding can be joined by friction.

To prevent the drawer slides from slipping when gluing them in place, it is recommended to cut a
spike at the front end, exactly the size of the slot. This is located in the slot at the front of the
drawer (Fig. 480A and B). The back part of the slide is slotted to fit the back of the drawer
(Fig. 480 C). In the case of Fig. 473A, the sliding is simply pushed firmly against the box.
backwards.

169
170
 Adjustment of the bottom: the beginner may experience some difficulties in achieving a good
adjust along the shoulders and so that the background is flush with the slides. An easy method is to place
the slips at the bottom first, making the distance to the outer faces of the slips
be a little larger than the interior size of the drawer (Fig. 481). The slips thin out until the
the set fits exactly and then sticks to the sides of the drawer with the bottom removed.

Placement of the drawer: first level of the lower edges of the drawer. As the sides have already been
installed in the casing, only a little of its edges should be removed. Then remove the extra thickness allowed in
the sides of the drawer. In order for the drawer to fit evenly throughout its movement, it is
it is absolutely essential that the sides are straight and flat. To achieve this, use a test plane and support
each side while it is being planned or will bend under the pressure of the plane. Figure 482 shows the method
to hold the drawer while providing this support. To prevent breaking the final grain of the front of the
drawer, the smoothing direction should be away from the tails of the comb, but when planning in this direction to
it happens that the back of the drawer becomes too small. This is due to the small
The amount of final grain in the rear joint of the dovetail makes it easier to plane there than in the
front part.

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 In first class work, the back part of the drawer is slightly larger than the front.
so that it tightens as it is pulled out. This prevents the drawer from coming out and spilling its contents.
the ground. The slight clearance allowed at the back of the casing allows the drawer to function.
fácilmente después de que haya entrado en la abertura aproximadamente 75 o 100 mm (3 o 4 pulg.).
The drawers must be installed quite tightly at first and left like that until the stage is reached.
cleaning of the work. If the drawer stops are installed, the front can be planed flush or
parallel to the face of the work. Figure 483A shows the best type of stop to use, and when planning its edge
Before attaching it, the position of the drawer can be adjusted if the thickness of the front varies.
Finished: when the drawer has had its final adjustment, lubricate the parts subjected to friction. The best
The material to use is Ronuk floor wax, as it is not sticky and applies easily. The common practice
Using paraffin wax has the disadvantage that later sandpaper is needed to remove and smooth it out.
the leftover wax, and the sand from the sandpaper tends to embed itself in the sides of the drawers and in other
places. This can easily cause the familiar scratches and grooves that often appear on the sides and
bottom edges of the drawers.
Scotch tape is used less frequently now, and modern PVA and synthetics do not.
they resort to the technique of friction joint, so the drawer slides must be tightened.
to avoid the excessive weight of iron cramps, it is worth doing eight or ten cramps for this purpose
lightweight wood (see Appendix H).
Drawer structure

In solid wood or frame construction, the drawers rest at the front on the rail.
from the drawer (Fig. 483). This is both located and housed on the side of the cabinet (Fig. 484). A rail can be installed
similar on the back, although this is sometimes omitted, particularly when the back is
sufficient to keep the cabinet rigid. In the best work, the dust panels are placed between the
drawers. The drawer rails and other components are grooved to accept them, which means that a rail
The back of the drawer is essential.

The drawer rails are connected by the drawer carriers, also housed but not
stuck on the sides. At the front, the holder is hooked on the drawer rail (Fig. 484) and this
the joint is stuck. At the back, as shown in Fig. 483, the shoulder is trimmed, the stamping
it becomes deeper and the joint is not attached. This allows the side of the cabinet to expand or to
shrink without splitting or deforming, and the holder remains in place no matter what happens.

In small cabinets or where the rear rail of the drawer has been chosen to be omitted, the carrier is arranged
as in Fig. 485. The front end is lined and glued to the drawer rail. It is housed, but not glued.

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to one side. The rear end is cut and secured by a round head screw in a slot, which
that allows the movement from the side (Fig. 486).

A framed cabinet with panels requires different treatment (Fig. 487). The front rails
and the rear of the drawer are fixed and housed in the leg or corner member (Fig. 488). The bearer of the
The drawer is fitted into both rails. These joints are glued, but the carrier should not be glued to the
panel. At one point, the guides were housed in the carriers, but now a suitable one is considered.
simple adhesive joint. When the rear drawer rail is omitted, the arrangement shown in Fig. 488 is used, which
it houses the end around the corner member. The guide is stuck as before.

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 Please note that while the front drawer rails are generally flush with the sides,
At the back, the groove or recess must be made, cut later, adjusting the back of the
cabinet.
Handles
Wooden mangoes, aside from those commercially manufactured, are divided into two categories, turned.
and manufactured in a bank. There is not a great distinction between the drawers and those with doors.

In Fig. 489, it shows the fastest, easiest, and cheapest way, often found in modern furniture.
mass-produced. A length of material is machined to the section and then cut to length. Rarely
it is produced by hand using molding plans, but it can be done quickly with a router
power. These handles are generally fixed horizontally using two screws from the inside.
from the drawer. The screwed handles, possibly in more exotic woods, in shapes similar to b are a
improvement.

The quality handles, made of woods like rosewood and ebony, are embedded in the door or
in the drawer. If the spike is taken, it can be minted. These handles show the final grain at the front; this is
polish well to give a more attractive appearance, but if the spike is grooved and the wedges are inserted, the handle
it will be divided, d (B). Therefore, the wedges must be inserted at the ends, d (A). A tapered handle
The user will need a grip for the fingers carved underneath it.

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 A full-width handle, f, housed at the front of a drawer provides a good grip, especially
for larger drawers. It is very effective on oak and similar woods, and where several drawers are stacked.
vertically like in a chest of drawers. The dovetail case can be stopped just before the edge
top of the drawer.

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 The turned handles (Fig. 490) always present a final grain for the viewer, so the finish
this face must be immaculate to make the most of its appearance. Although these handles can be
screw from the inside, they tend to loosen and spin; it requires very little extra effort to turn a
pequeña espiga y aburrir el frente del cajón, y usted estará más contento con el resultado. Coloque un
caliper for the drill and turn to this size. Unless you are working with small pieces of wood.
exotic, a series of mangoes spin between the centers and then separate. The face is finely finished.
holding the spindle in a wooden chuck or in a drill chuck. A wide variety of shapes is
possible and those in Fig. 490 are typical. Through careful peeling or sanding of the disk, they can be introduced
polygonal characteristics, B. One can add a central embedded contrast point, e.g. sycamore or
holly in ebony, C. Turning and bench work can be combined to produce bar handles, D, in the
that the use of contrasting woods can be effective. This style does not seem to be used in the vertical form. In
On oaks or similar solid woods, a rotary bolt can be installed, E.

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 Box constructions
Boxes vary greatly in size, from small jewelry cases to toolboxes, which are channels.
virtually, and there are a variety of joining methods.

The simplest, the butt joint, is only used for raw or temporary work (Fig 491). A
refinement (Fig 492) provides a shoulder that helps to maintain the square components and also reduces the amount
of final visible grain. It can be immobilized or reinforced with sheet feathers (see later). Both
These joints are fundamentally not very solid since, from point one, one of the components is grain.
final, which does not have adhesive strength in each.

A miter joint (Fig 493) providing half the glued surfaces of final grain, although slightly
stronger is suitable, not reinforced, just for small jobs.

Although the miters can be cut with a circular saw, they will need to be finished by planing.
hand on a precise miter saw table. The strength of this joint can be improved by the
addition of a loose tongue (Fig 494). The grooves for this are generally cut by a bandsaw
radial, or the use of appropriate templates on the table circular saw or router. Alternatively, a router
It can be used with a thick 45° block (see Appendices C and D.) Please note that for
obtain a good size of the tongue, the groove is not central, but is established towards the inside of the center. The
Tongues must be made of plywood or, if visible, of hardwood with end grain. An innovation.
Moderna is the 'biscuit joiner' that cuts slots where elliptical beech tongues are glued.
compressed, but this method is only suitable for larger sizes.

La articulación mitrada puede ser fortalecida por las plumas. En pequeña obra una pieza de chapa o

177
even two thicknesses can be used (Fig 496).

The problem generally known here is to match the metal sheet and the thickness of the saw.
Sawcuts se hacen a veces la moda de cola de milano. trabajo más grandese puede dar plumas de madera sólida
(fig 495) in thicknesses between 2 and 4 mm (1/16 and 3/16 in.). The joints are glued, cleaned and
carefully handled during the grooving. The grooving is easily performed on a small router.
above, using the appropriate groove cutter and a 'vee' fence where the box is fed. Alternatively,
if the box is not too large, the sawbench can be used, perhaps with oscillating washers for
adjust the width of the cut. An appropriate cradle is shown in Appendix F.

With small circular saws and various routers, corner locking joints are possible.
Of these, popular for small boxes, commercially manufactured, are shown in figures 497 and 498.

The comb or joint of the finger (Fig 499) can be, although rarely said, cut by hand. There are
industrial scale machines for this set, but can be easily placed on a small sawbench.
Wobble washers increase the width of the cut with a saw, which for the best appearance should not exceed
of 6 mm (1/4 in.). Many sawbenches have an attachment for cutting this joint. Appendix
G shows a simple template that can be easily adapted to work on a table.
router too. Without going through the registration pin, it is possible to organize a miter corner.

It is generally expected that the separation is as precise as possible, but the final height of the box
it must be in multiples of the joint. Sawed through the box to provide the lid requires the
removal of a complete unit to preserve the pattern.

The manufacture of the dovetail joint (figure 500) has already been addressed. It is the joint

178
more common for quality boxes. The tails of the milan are at the front of the box and the tails in the
extremes. Generally, the upper and lower corners are mitered to take the groove that is fixed to the part
superior and inferior of the box, although nowadays grooving with the router no longer makes it essential.
Where there is a sawed-off end, a dovetail is made extra wide to allow for sawing loss.
and brushing (Fig 501). When the thickness of the sides reduces, creating a unilateral inclined box, it is customary
to match this due to the decrease in the milan queues (Fig 502, see also Appendix I).

The box walls can be notched, folded, or folded with a slip (Fig. 503A, B, C and
D). The veneered layer can be glued, but the solid wood must be left free to move, as in A, C.
to D.

A planted cover (Fig. 504) poses no difficulties, but problems may arise with the type of
cut unless carefully chosen quarter-sawn lumber. A grooved top (Fig. 505A) may
to deform, distorting its frame and producing the effects of Fig. 506. A thinner cover,
constructed as in Fig. 505B is less likely to deform, and C even less. These slides
Additional pieces must be cut from the sides and ends of the top material and must be joined flush, not at an angle.
the corners. A bevel or chamfer softens the inner corner (Fig. 507).

Figure 508 shows an alternative upper construction. The veneered plywood is glued.
in a discount and the joint is hidden with an inlay cord.

To help close a box securely and provide some measure of protection against dust
And for airtightness, loose liners are added to high-quality boxes, often in contrasting woods.
(Fig. 509). These must be kept as thin as possible (3 mm (1/8 in.) is a common thickness) and should be
mitigate at the corners. Generally, they are not glued, and the upper edges are often half
rounded. The front lining will have to be planned again at an angle of one minute to allow for
the lid closes easily. A step in the lining provides support for a tray.

179
180
 A small drop, possibly from the same wood as the paneling, is sometimes mitred and
stuck to the edge of the lid (Fig 510). This can be inflated in the middle of the front part to give
a grip for the finger for opening. Care must be taken at the back to blend with the
hinges.

For this reason, the back is sometimes left flush.

When the plate is placed over corner joints that are always visible over time. This reduces
the choice of corner joints in the wooden sheet metal box to a flat mitre, a mitre with tongue, or
a miter saw with wood veneer blades.

A completely different method from the decision box is shown in figures 511A and B. Two
sides extend beyond the box. This shape can be joined by applying dowels, through (C) or hidden,
of shroud and spike, it either stops through or through the tail casing of the kite. When the front part and
rear projecting the opportunity can be taken to incorporate a handle strip (as in A). When the
extreme project, the hinged cover can overlap (B) to form a grip with the fingers.

A simple gluing method is shown in Appendix E.

181
Box hinge

182
 In small boxes, the hinges are generally left in the same shape as the box and the lid (Fig. 512).
When a heel has been used for hammering or hammered, it must have the same thickness as the hinge.
that is then completely left in this member (Fig. 513). In this case, the other turn of the hinge is left
in a conical base (Fig. 514) like a door hinge.

183
 The small boxes with light lids can be articulated (Figs. 515 and 516). The small bevels
Placed along the back edges of the lid and the box allow the lid to stand on its own.
when it is fully open. In a larger box, the leverage will be too great and it
they will tear the screws. Remember to use a support block when cutting the housings (Fig. 517).

When the joint is complete, scrape and clean the faces in the order shown (Fig. 518) (keep in
it omits the hinge face.

The bottom and top edges are flush. The inserted bottom or the raised top must
polish before sticking.

184
 Remove the hinges (Fig 519) and carefully reassemble the box. Place the box and the lid with great care.
carefully and keep them in place with adhesive tape. The hinge face can now be finished and
the hinges returned.

185
 Glass and mirrors
The treatment of glass and mirrors will vary depending on the quality of the work. The most common method
For the construction of glazed panels and doors has already been discussed (see p.185).

Figure 520 is a typical section. A ovolo or beveled mold was worked on the exterior with a discount,
generally of the same depth as the molded piece, inside. Pin (do not stick) a small drop,
either color or round nose, on the inside. This allows for easy replacement of the glass. bronze pins
The small brass screws look better than steel and do not rust. However, as woods shrink,
particularly in a room with central heating, this method can lead to noisy panels.

This problem can be reduced by glass bedding in a very thin layer of putty. If
the work will not be painted, a putty of a suitable color must be chosen or a powder color must be
mix with white putty. Paint the interior of the recess to prevent linseed oil in the putty from
leaching through. In the very fine threads of the glass, it can be secured with putty only on the inside (Fig
This is often done in period pieces. Some pins hold the glass in place, to be hidden.
through the putty. Once again, the paint of the rebate and choose a suitable color for the putty.

Mirrors can be secured in a similar manner. To avoid unpleasant reflections, apply to the
discounts and the edges of the mirror a layer of matte black paint (slate). There should be an air gap in between
the mirror and the backing. In a thick frame or door, this can be carried out as shown in the Fig.
522. The layer support can be planted simply, but a more orderly job is done if it is screwed.
in a second rebate. With smaller mirrors, the classic method is to secure the mirror in its rebate by
a means of small softwood wedges glued to the frame (Fig. 523). The glass must have a size
less than 1.5 mm (1/16 in.) throughout the entire course. In the best work, the mirror is embedded in a layer
very thin putty. This compensates for any slight twist, particularly in circular frames or
polygonal. This method provides a good bed for beveled glass (Fig. 524A).

Figure 524B shows how a mirror frame can be constructed, concealing the joints by
moldings or inlays. Figure 524C offers an alternative where the front coating is built
from one or two thicknesses of saw-cut sheet metal. This method, which uses cross-grain sheet metal, is
commonly used in period pieces.

186
 Having described the traditional treatments, it is a fact that modern silver is much more
robusta que los métodos anteriores. Esto se confirma por la popularidad de los azulejos de los espejos, unidos
through adhesive foam pads. Fig. 525 shows an easier and faster method that has
been successful for several years with modern mirrors. A series of small foam pads
They compress between the backrest and the mirror, keeping the latter firmly in place.

187
 Sawn joints

These can be made from any cut, preferably of hardwoods. The ideal is that
the stops should be glued and nailed, as the screws tend to loosen.

Type A is the common double-sided type, which can be held in the bench vice.
The sawing is done through the bench. Type B shows a less common shape, particularly useful for
the beginners. The lower block must be kept in the vice, so the cut is made along the
bank, just like the planning. This allows the work to remain firm with a G-cramp or a screw
by hand.

It is worth doing both things. Type A is more useful for long pieces, in which case it is useful to have one.
second similar, possibly narrower, to keep the long piece firm and level.

188
 The Rip Tenon saw

When sawed on the cheeks of the spike, the longer the saw stays in the saw cut, the greater
there will be the risk of inaccuracy, so it must be very strong. An improvement is to have a cut tenon saw,
that removes its teeth cut transversely, usually about 15 teeth per 25 mm (1 inch) and
replacing them with saw teeth, 10 teeth per 25 mm (1 inch). The teeth can be separated
easily tightening the saw with an old 9 or 10 tpi power saw blade. The higher speed of the
Rotary saw improves precision and reduces effort. An additional advantage is that l0tpi can be configured.
using the common pliers type saw, which will not work on more than 12tpi. The cut can be left on
a sturdy sharpening saw.

189
 The template to Groove Miter

A thick block of well-cured material (or a built-up piece) is carefully designed to

45°. With great accuracy, the acute angle is again expected to be 90° from the 45° face to accept the fence.
router. The workpiece is narrow to this, the power block of its edges in a large vice and the groove.
route out (Fig 528).

190
 Template for Groove Miter In the table saw

Only multiple layers should be used; solid wood can decrease or increase, affecting the
accuracy of the 45 ° angle.

the base plate A and the working face B are joined at 45°. The actual accuracy is provided by the
two C-angle blocks. The base A and subbase D are both identically grooved to hold two strips of
metal or wood, G. These are screwed to D, allowing a to slide along them. A bolt, the
wing nut and washer H in a slot allows the work to be placed precisely on the
sierra.

A metal I bar was adjusted underneath D to fit the groove in the sawbench. This bar
It is screwed from above. The two screws J operate through large holes in D. This allows for the
Adjust so that the work face B is precisely parallel to the saw blade.

A handle F is wedged between the two angular blocks C.

191
 A thin strip of about E is screwed vertically to the work surface in a position
convenient for the width of the material being handled.

Check with a large square against the saw table. This piece aligns and pushes the work towards
go ahead, so the accuracy of the fixing is important.

The work must be kept firm with a small G-cramp. The sizes will depend on the bank of
specific saw and the width of the joints.

Remember to use appropriate protection.

192
 Mitred tail boxes

The boxes can be glued more conveniently as follows. Machine a length of

material for the four corner blocks. The rebate is easier to cut with the circular saw. Organize
a cut slightly deeper than the required refund, giving you free space in the corner.

Round the outer corner and sand gently, then cut them into pieces. Seal the pressure faces or
cover them with plastic tape to prevent excess glue from sticking to them (A). Assemble as in
B. Apply pressure for smaller boxes with strong rubber bands (for example, cutting the tubes
automobile interiors) or for larger sizes with a commercial band clamp.

193
 The template for the Mitre key joints

Components A and B are glued together to form a base that supports the box. Before gluing,
6 mm (1/4 in.) groove cutting in B.

The cradle is notched and then secured to the two reinforced C runners by four blocks of 45.
° accurately formed, D. Check that the resulting angle is 90°. Obtain a piece of bar of
metal to fit into the slot of the table saw. Drill and strike this 6 mm (1/4 inch). The bar is secured
to one of the runners, C, using two screws with washers, G. These screws, which operate in holes of
large size, allow for a precise adjustment of the base that must be at a right angle to the circular saw and the
bar F.

194
 A mobile fence, E, is maintained at the base, secured to B with flat head round screws with
washers, H, or with recessed machine screws secured from below with wing nuts with
washers that operate through the slots.

Place the circular saw at the required height and move the guide over it, cutting A, B, and E.

Remove E, prepare a small recording block and stick it in the slot of the saw. E is reinserted.
to give the required space between the keys, a new cut is then made.

To use it, place the box on the base with the true edge against the ledger block and make a
cut at each corner. The next cut is made with this first slot in the registration block. Repeat the
process.

If after making the adjustments, the second slot in E becomes too large, stick in a
small block and the unloading plane. This will prevent 'spelching', the fragmentation at the end of the saw cut.

The sizes will depend on the particular saw bank, the available material, and the size of the job.
considered.

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 Template for finger joints

Any screw from the main block A to the cross-cut slide or the tail to a block of
thickness X, and in turn to a mounting bar of the sawbench slot. Make two slots for the screws.
that hold the screw B. adjustable guide B through behind A. Adjust the saw with oscillation washers
to give the required cutting width and set it to the required height.

Pass over the saw to make the first groove. Remove B, prepare a registration block C and the
insert in this slot. Replace B, move it sideways the thickness of the slot and temporarily secure it. Do
a series of cuts in scrap pieces, adjusting B until a good fit on the width is achieved
Work. After the adjustment, a block D, glued to the saw, prevents the corner of the slots from bursting.

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 Start with the long sides, the true edge facing forward and push hard against the block
of the register. Cut both ends of both pieces. To cut the short sides, make the first cut of
press the short side firmly against it and make the cut from the side
open. With the cut on the open side against the registration block, continue cutting as described.

To produce a mitral corner, temporarily place a clamp on a false face E that masks.
the registration block. Where only the miter is required on one edge, it is easier to start cutting on the other.
edge and stop short at the edge of the mitre.

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 Sliding drawer cramps

These cramps are easily made from cuttings of any dense hardwood. The block
The inferior or fixed part rotates to accept the screws. Use only a tapered tap and work until the tip emerges.
thus securing a hole of insufficient size. The screw is forced by means of two security nuts.
The holes in the upper block or in motion are drilled large to give a careless fit.
A nut and a wing nut, along with two washers, complete the job. Don't overlook the washers.
or the gags will be chewed quickly.

The best quick thread to use is the 5/16in. Whitworth, but the M8 metric threads or American ones are
equally successful. When using them, keep the jaws as parallel as possible. (See p. 251).

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 Decreasing Dovetails

To divide a line into a given number of parts in constantly decreasing proportions: Draw
the baseline AB. From point O, draw OC at, for example, 250, with OC being the length of the line. From O
to erect a perpendicular, OD.

From O to draw OE, the proportions DE and DO are, let's say, 1:2. Project OE, leading to a pin at
along OE to, let's say, 250 mm (10 in.)

O. Connect the pin through C to B. Divide OB into the required number of equal parts by
construction, dividers or measures. With a ruler always at the pin, connect up to these divisions to cut.
These are the required decreasing proportions.

The further away the slider is placed, or to the left, the smaller the decrease will be; the further
the closer the latch is, the greater the decrease. Rethinking the dovetail: Repeat the diagram
basic.

Mark OC at the length of the component, and from the pin project the line to B. Divide OB into the
required proportions of tail of milano, considering the cutting corners, the cut tops, etc.
Project towards the pin from the OB, cut OC, applying the spacing to the work.

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