Grout Float

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Sponge Soft cloth

The layer of grout still on the tile must be cleaned off before it dries. Once the grout has had a few minutes to firm up in the joints, wipe with a damp sponge in a circular motion to get the excess grout off the face of the tile (Be careful not to dig or wipe the grout out of the joints). Once the first wipe down is complete, get a bucket of clean water and wipe the tile down a second time. This time we are only trying to get the haze off. Wipe the tile with a damp grout sponge at an angle to the grout lines and rinse the grout sponge often. After the second wipe down, let the tile dry until a haze appears (about 20-30 minutes).

When the grout haze appears and the grout is fairly firm, buff the haze off with a soft, clean cloth, being careful not to disturb the joints. GROUT & HAZE REMOVER is designed to assist in cleaning any film that may have been missed or is particularly difficult to remove from from the face of the tile once the grout has cured. For tough areas, where grout film has been left on the face of the tile, use GROUT HAZE AND LATEX FILM REMOVER with a Scrubbing Pad. CAULKING AND SEALING GROUT: Once you have installed the tile and have had a chance to stand back and admire your work, you should take the proper steps to keep the tile and grout looking beautiful for years to come. Two days after grouting, caulk the area where the backsplash and countertop intersects. Caulk the corners of the backsplash and once again around the sink. These areas are stress areas and as you open and close the cabinet doors and drawers, movement will happen. Caulking these areas after the grout has dried will prevent grout cracking and grout movement.

Installing ceramic tile on a countertop or similar surface is a good project for a do-it-yourselfer. A sink top in the kitchen or bathroom, a new top for a bar or vanity, an elegant buffet in the dining room, or open storage shelves in the kitchen are all reasonably easy projects that can bring major changes to any room. TOOLS NEEDED:
Tape Measure:

HOW TO INSTALL A CERAMIC TILE COUNTERTOP AND BACKSPLASH

Carpenters Square:

Use as a straight edge and squaring tool

Fiber Glass Tape:

Use to establish an even working plane

Level:

After the caulk has dried, use PENETRATING SEALER or STONE SEAL to seal all the grout lines on the countertop and backsplash. This sealer is designed for countertops and should be reapplied every two to three years. Grout is the only maintenance of a ceramic tile countertop. Therefore, using a good caulk and a good grout sealer will keep your countertop looking clean and new for years to come. Apply the PENETRATING SEALER with a small foam brush or sponge directly to the grout joints. Let the sealer soak into the grout joint for a few minutes, then buff any remaining sealer off the tile and grout immediately. Follow the instructions on all the labels of the products you elect to use to clarify proper usage and procedures. For daily maintenance use GROUT AND TILE NEUTRAL CLEANER. ASK ABOUT OUR GROUT MAINTENANCE KIT
Monday - Friday ......7am - 9pm Saturday ..............9am - 5:30pm Sunday ..................11am - 5pm

secure subfloor

Backerboard Screws: Use to

Use as a guide when laying tile

Chalk Line:
For grout & adhesive

2 Buckets: Mixer Bar:

Tile Spacers:

Use for precise tile alignment

Grout cleaning tool

Scrub Pad:

Use to apply grout.

Grout Float:

Use to mix mortar

Rubber Gloves:

Rub Stone:

Use to smooth edges

* Tile Nippers:

Firm, Round Edge Sponge:

STORE HOURS:

Needed to bite harder grade tiles

* Hand Held Micro Cutter:

Will not leave excess liquid, is super absorbent.

Notched Trowel:

Use to spread adhesive

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* WE OFFER FREE USE OF

* Tile Cutter: or angle cuts Used for straight

spread adhesive

Notched Margin Trowel: Use to

Margin Float:
Use to apply grout

8" Margin Trowel:

If the width of the countertop is 24" or less, a cross brace every 36" is adequate. Where plywood pieces are butted together at the ends, leave about 1/8" space to permit expansion. Similarly, there should be about 1/8" gap between the plywood and the back wall. A wood batten placed underneath will temporarily prevent the adhesive from dripping into the cabinets.

SURFACE PREPARATION: You can apply new tiles right over existing ceramic tile or laminated plastic counters (Formica) provided the edge of the counter is square rather than rounded. If youve installed new cabinets or removed the old countertop, you will be installing a new backing for the counter. By far the best sub-surface for a ceramic tile countertop is 3/4" exterior grade plywood with 1/2" BACKER BOARD (cement board) or DENSHIELD mounted on top of the plywood. Attach the BACKER BOARD to the 3/4" plywood by first troweling-out PRO-FLEX Mortar, or PRO-LASTIC Mortar or PROFLEX PLATINUM Mortar using a 1/4" U-notch trowel over the plywood. Place the BACKER BOARD on the mortar and tamp down; now screw the BACKER BOARD to the plywood every 4" using 1" backerboard screws. This process laminates and secures the BACKER BOARD to create a solid and rigid surface for tile.

tile

SETTING THE TILE: Prior to tiling, tape all of your BACKER BOARD seams using FIBERGLASS TAPE and PRO-FLEX Mortar/PRO-LASTIC Mortar or PRO-FLEX PLATINUM Mortar. If you have a tile-in sink, this should be installed now; if your have the standard self-rimming type sink, this will be installed after the tile is set and grouted.
Sink Rail Carpenters Sqaure

1. Sink Rail
cement board

bullnose tile cut bullnose

CHOOSING THE EDGE TRIM: Before you start, decide how you will trim the countertop edge. The usual methods are illustrated (right) ; your choice will depend on the availability of trim pieces in the tile pattern you select as well as on personal preference. The most commonly used application is two bullnose tiles where one overlaps the other (Example #2). Oak edging is also popular, however, serious thought should be given in advance due to the surplus moisture/water which countertops are sometimes subjected to.
SELECTING A SINK: The type of sink influences your project. There are two basic types: selfrimming, which means it sits on top of the tile, and tile-in which is designed to be mounted flush with the tile. Self-rimming sinks are much easier for tiling projects because you tile up to the opening cut in the counter and then just drop the sink in place on a line of caulk. Tile-in sinks require careful cutting around the sinks perimeter. PLANNING THE LAYOUT:

3/4" plywood

2. Bullnose

When setting a countertop, the trim for the edge is the first tile to go on. Mix the PRO-FLEX /PRO-LASTIC Mortar / PRO-FLEX PLATINUM Mortar with clean, cool water to a toothpaste consistency. Spread adhesive, using the proper notched trowel, only where the trim will be placed. Set the bullnose/trim pieces before you spread the adhesive for the field tiles keeping in mind that the field tiles are generally in line with the edge trim. If you use a SINK RAIL, each piece will need extra adhesive spread on the back, (this is called back buttering) to account for the irregularity of each piece. If you use surface bullnose for the trim, set the horizontal trim first overlapping the bullnose to receive the vertical piece; leave a grout joint between these tiles and run a piece of tape to hold the vertical tile in place. After all the bullnose pieces are positioned, spread the adhesive over a section of counter. Now lay the field tiles, working from the front to the back and cutting back pieces to fit as necessary. The tiles should run to the wall. Be sure to use tile spacers if the tiles are not sheet mounted. Check the grout joint alignment frequently. Use a wooden block or piece of padded plywood large enough to cover several squares at once and tap with a mallet or rubber hammer to bed and level the tile faces as you lay them in the mortar adhesive.
leave space Bullnose tile Cut out for outlet

tile

3. Oak Nosing
tile spacers

When laying out any project the best advice is to think things through. Any problems or questions should be resolved before picking up the adhesive. By dry laying the tile (without adhesive), you can see where the tile will hit any given area: the back wall, the end of the counter, the sink area, etc. This will essentially give you an opportunity see where every tile will go. By dry laying you will save time and the process of setting the tile will go much smoother. There are basically three types of countertops: 1. 2. 3. The Straight Counter: For the straight counter you can either center the tile in the space or start full off of both ends and put the cut, or dutchman as its called, in the middle. The L Shape Counter: For the L shape counter, we want full tiles along each counter edge. You will need to start at the front edge of the inside corner. This will ensure that you have full tiles along both counter edges.

Once the counter is completely set and dry, you are ready to do the backsplash. This is an ideal area to set some decorated accent tiles to highlight the area. Unless you are tiling up to an overhead cabinet or window sill, use bullnose/trim pieces for the top row. In the event the wall behind the counter contains electrical outlets or switches, you can cut the tile to fit around these openings.

Align joints of backsplash tiles with joints on countertop. Leave width of one grout joint between counter tiles and bottom of backsplash tiles.

When backsplash is higher than one course, you may have to fit tiles around electrical outlets. Either cut hole in tile or cut tile in two and nibble out hole.

The U Shaped Counter: For the U shaped counter, we again want full tiles along each counter edge. It is important to start with full tiles at the front edge of each inside corner to ensure that you have full tiles along all three counter edges.

APPLYING GROUT: Clean any adhesive that might have stuck to the tile face with a damp sponge. After the mortar adhesive has dried a minimum of 24 hours, grout the tile. Using a sanded grout mixed with FLEXIBLE GROUT ADMIXTURE or LATEX GROUT REINFORCER mix together to a toothpaste consistency. Pack the grout into the tile joints using a grout float. Spreading the grout is relatively simple; its the proper cleanup that requires careful work. The object is to get the tiles clean without disturbing the grout. Keep a grout sponge, a supply of clean water and a soft cloth/cotton rag available for the cleanup process. When using colored grout, remember to mask any vulnerable adjacent surfaces.