Zebra Crochet Pattern

**MATERIALS**

- Yarn HIMALAYA Dolphin Baby: color #80301 white, #80351 light gray, #80320 dark gray,
#80319 light pink for the ears. Also, two other shades for the skirt;
- Yarn LANOSO Single dark gray color #953 for the mane and tail;
- Crochet hooks #3.5 mm and #2.5 mm;
- Safety eyes 18 mm, trapezoid shape with sparkles;
- Needle with a large eye for sewing and tightening;
- Stitch marker or a contrasting thread;
- Stuffing, I used holofiber balls;
- Scissors;
- Black yarn for embroidering arrows and eyebrows. I used YarnArt Jeans;
- False eyelashes, optional;
- Moment Crystal glue.
 **ABBREVIATIONS**
- MR – magic ring;
- ch – chain;
- sc – single crochet;
- dec – decrease;
- inc – increase;
- hdc – half double crochet;
- dc – double crochet;
- sl st – slip stitch;
- (…) * n – repeat the instructions in parentheses n times.

**RECOMMENDATIONS**
All parts of the toy, except for the ears, are crocheted in a spiral, starting with a magic ring.
The rounds are not joined unless specified in the pattern. The crochet should be tight to avoid
holes and ensure the stuffing is not visible. If the fabric is too loose, try using a smaller hook.
Stuff all parts as you go. Stuff firmly to ensure the toy holds its shape.

If you are using different materials, adjust the eye size accordingly during the crocheting
process. You will need approximately 60 grams of the main (white) color yarn and 50 grams of
dark gray yarn. Use a 3.5 mm hook for the toy and a 2.5 mm hook for the mane and tail.
It is best to glue the eyelashes to the eyes before starting the work so that they have time to
dry. Use Moment Crystal glue to attach them to the edge of the eye.
**LEGS**
Begin crocheting with dark gray yarn. The marker should be placed in the middle of the back of
the leg. Before rounds with increases or decreases, adjust the marker if necessary.

1. 8 sc in MR;
2. 8 inc = 16 sc;
3. (1 sc, inc) * 8 = 24 sc;
4. (3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30 sc;
5. 30 sc in back loops only;
6-7. 2 rounds of 30 sc each;
8. (dec, 3 sc) * 6 = 24 sc;
9-10. 2 rounds of 24 sc each;

11. 12 dec = 12 sc;

Change yarn to white. Firmly stuff the hoof.

12. 12 sc in back loops only;
13-14. 2 rounds of 12 sc each;
Change yarn to dark gray.
15-16. 2 rounds of 12 sc each;
Change yarn to white.
17. 4 sc, 4 inc hdc, 4 sc = 16 sts;
18. 7 sc, 2 inc, 7 sc = 18 sc;
19. 18 sc;
Change yarn to dark gray.
20-21. 2 rounds of 18 sc each;
Change yarn to white.
22. 18 sc;
23. 3 sc, 6 dec, 3 sc = 12 sc;
24. 12 sc;
Change yarn to dark gray. Cut and secure the white yarn.
25. 12 sc.

Stuff the leg almost to the top, leaving about the top 3 rounds unstuffed.

Fold the piece and crochet 6 sc through both layers.

Cut and secure the yarn.
Now let's make the edging for the hoof.
Attach the yarn to the front loops of the 5th round.

Attach the yarn to the front loops of the 5th round

and crochet 30 slip stitches around.
Hold the leg with the sole facing away from you.
Cut, secure, and weave in the yarn tail inside the piece.
 **ARMS**
Begin crocheting with dark gray yarn. The marker should be placed in the middle of the back of
the arm. Adjust the marker if necessary.
1. 8 sc in MR;
2. 8 inc = 16 sc;
3. (1 sc, inc) * 8 = 24 sc;

4. 24 sc in back loops only;

5-6. 2 rounds of 24 sc each;
7. (dec, 2 sc) * 6 = 18 sc;
8. 18 sc;
9. (1 sc, dec) * 6 = 12 sc;
Change yarn to white.
10. 12 sc in back loops only;
11-12. 2 rounds of 12 sc each;
Change yarn to dark gray. Firmly stuff the hoof. Continue stuffing the arm as you crochet.
13-14. 2 rounds of 12 sc each;
Change yarn to white.
15-17. 3 rounds of 12 sc each;
Change yarn to dark gray.
18-19. 2 rounds of 12 sc each;
Change yarn to white.
20-22. 3 rounds of 12 sc each;
Change yarn to dark gray.
23-24. 2 rounds of 12 sc each;
Change yarn to white. Do not stuff the top of the arm.
25. 12 sc.
 Fold the piece and crochet 6 sc through both layers.
Cut and secure the yarn.
With dark gray yarn, make the edging for the hoof,
the same way as done for the legs.
Crochet the edging using slip stitches.

**BODY**

Begin crocheting with white yarn. The marker should be placed in the middle of the back.
Adjust the marker if necessary.

1. 6 sc in MR;
2. 6 inc = 12 sc;
3. (1 sc, inc) * 6 = 18 sc;
4. (inc, 2 sc) * 6 = 24 sc;
5. (3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30 sc;
6. 1 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) * 5, 3 sc = 36 sc;
Change yarn to dark gray.
7. (5 sc, inc) * 6 = 42 sc;
8. 42 sc;
Change yarn to white. In the ninth round,
we will crochet the legs into the body.
9. 7 sc, 6 sc with the left leg, 16 sc along the belly,
6 sc with the right leg, 7 sc = 42 sc;
10-11. 2 rounds of 42 sc each;
Change yarn to dark gray.
12-13. 2 rounds of 42 sc each;
Change yarn to white.
14. 33 sc, (dec, 1 sc) * 3 = 39 sc;
15. (dec, 1 sc) * 3, 30 sc = 36 sc;
16. 36 sc;
Change yarn to dark gray.
17. 36 sc;

18. 9 sc, (1 sc, dec) * 6, 9 sc = 30 sc;

Change yarn to white.
19-21. 3 rounds of 30 sc each;
Change yarn to dark gray.
22. 30 sc;
23. (3 sc, dec) * 6 = 24 sc;
Change yarn to white. Cut and secure the gray yarn.
24-25. 2 rounds of 24 sc each;
Stuff the body. In the next round, we will crochet the arms into the body.
26. 3 sc, 6 sc with the left arm, 6 sc across the chest, 6 sc with the right arm, 3 sc = 24 sc;
27. 24 sc;
28. (dec, 2 sc) * 6 = 18 sc;
29. 18 sc. + approximately 3 sc and one slip stitch at the end.
Cut the yarn, pull it through to the wrong side, and secure it.
 **HEAD**

Begin crocheting with light gray yarn. The marker should be placed at the bottom of the head.
1. 6 sc in MR;
2. 6 inc = 12 sc;
3. (1 sc, inc) * 6 = 18 sc;
4. (inc, 2 sc) * 6 = 24 sc;
5. (3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30 sc;
6-8. 3 rounds of 30 sc each;

Change yarn to white. Do not cut the light gray yarn, as it will be needed in the next three
rounds for crocheting a spot on the bridge of the nose. When switching from one color to
another, always change the yarn in the last stitch of the previous color. This means that the
top of the last stitch of the previous color should be crocheted with the next color of yarn.
9. With white yarn, 9 sc, 5 inc hdc (crocheting over the light gray yarn to carry it along), then
with light gray yarn, 2 inc hdc, with white yarn, 5 inc hdc, 9 sc = 42 sts;

10. With white yarn, 13 sc, (inc, 2 sc) * 2, an increase with both colors, one stitch with white,
one stitch with light gray, 2 sc with light gray, an increase with both colors, one stitch with light
gray, one stitch with white, with white yarn (2 sc, inc) * 2, 13 sc = 48 sc;
11. With white yarn, 23 sc, with light gray yarn, 2 sc, with white yarn, 23 sc = 48 sc;
Cut and secure the light gray yarn. Continue crocheting with white yarn only.
12-17. 6 rounds of 48 sc each;

At this stage, we will attach the eyes. Insert the 18 mm eyes between the 10th and 11th
rounds.
Begin stuffing the head.
18. 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) * 5, 3 sc = 42 sc;
19. 42 sc;
20. (dec, 5 sc) * 6 = 36 sc;
21. 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) * 5, 2 sc = 30 sc;
22. (dec, 3 sc) * 6 = 24 sc;
23. 1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) * 5, 1 sc = 18 sc;
Add more stuffing, distributing it in the muzzle and head. The stuffing should be firm.
24. (1 sc, dec) * 6 = 12 sc;
25. 6 dec = 6 sc.
Finish stuffing the head. Cut the yarn and use a needle
to close the opening by threading through
the front loops of the stitches.
Pull each loop individually, as we are using plush yarn.
Hide the yarn end inside the head.

**SCULPTING**

For sculpting, we will need a long needle and strong white thread. Cut a long piece of thread.
Under the muzzle, mark three points at the color transition.
Insert the needle into the first point and bring it out at the inner corner of the right eye. Then
insert it into the outer corner of the right eye and bring it out at the second point. Repeat this
action once more. Tighten the threads and tie a couple of knots.

For the sculpting of the second eye, follow the same process. Insert the needle into the third
point, bring it out at the outer corner of the left eye, then insert it into the inner corner of the
left eye and bring it out at the first point. Tighten the thread and repeat the previous action
once more. Tighten the threads and tie them.

Using the same thread, without cutting it, we will shape the bridge of the nose. Insert the
needle into the first point and bring it out at the inner corner of the right eye. Then move up 2
rounds and insert the needle there. Bring the needle out at the same place by the left eye.
Next, insert the needle into the inner corner of the left eye and bring it out at the inner corner
of the right eye. Tighten the thread and repeat the shaping once more. Finally, bring the
thread out under the muzzle. Tighten the threads and tie them.

Using the same thread, shape the muzzle. Lay the thread straight down the center of the
muzzle and insert the needle from the top between the 8th and 9th rounds, bringing it out
under the muzzle. Tighten the thread and tie several knots. Hide the thread tails inside the
head.
 **LIP**
Crochet the lip with light gray yarn in turning rows.
1. Ch 2, 2 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook, ch 1, turn;
2. 2 inc = 4 sc, ch 1, turn;
3. (1 sc, inc) * 2 = 6 sc.

**EYES DETAILING**

We will need black yarn, such as YarnArt Jeans.

Cut a long piece of yarn, as it will be used doubled.
Embroider the eyelashes and eyebrows.

**ADDING STRIPES TO THE HEAD**

Using dark gray yarn, crochet stripes on top of the head.
Crochet the stripes using slip stitches.
 **NOSTRILS**

Crochet the nostrils with light gray yarn,

matching the color of the muzzle.
First, mark the placement with pins.
The nostrils will be positioned between
the 4th and 7th rounds.
Crochet them in an oval shape. Mark the placement for the
nostrils with pins.

For each nostril, I made 10 sc + 1 slip stitch at the end. Tie the yarn ends together and hide
them inside the head.
After crocheting the nostrils, embroider the inner part with dark gray yarn to fill them in.

Embroider the inner part of the

nostrils with dark gray yarn.
 **EARS**

For each ear, crochet 2 identical pieces in pink and white, then crochet them together along
the edges through both layers. Crochet the pieces in turning rows.
1. Ch 6, starting from the 2nd chain from the hook – 2 sc, inc, 1 sc, 4 sc in 1 stitch, on the other
side 1 sc, inc, 2 sc = 14 sc; + ch 1, turn
2. 5 sc, 4 inc, 5 sc = 18 sc; + ch 1, turn
3. 2 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 hdc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc = 24 sc.
For the pink piece, cut and secure the yarn. For the white piece, do not cut the yarn; you will
need it later.

Edge the ear with dark gray yarn.

Crochet the lower part of the ear with
the white yarn that was left.
Cut the white yarn, leaving a tail for sewing.
Sew the ears on the 17th-19th rounds, slightly turning them to the sides, but not too much.

Sew the ears

diagonally,
starting from the
gray stripes.
 STRIPES ON THE SIDES OF THE HEAD

The stripes on the sides of the head

are crocheted similarly to the stripes on top.
One stripe consists of 8 slip stitches, and the other
stripe consists of 10 slip stitches.
The distance between the stripes is 3 sc.

First, mark the placement of the stripes with pins, then crochet them.

When the head is ready, sew it to the body. For convenience, you can fix the head in place
with a long knitting needle. Toward the end of sewing, stuff the neck firmly so it can support
the head well.
I sewed the head around the 11th to 16th rounds.
 **MANE**
Crochet the mane using Lanoso SINGLE yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

First, mark the placement for the mane.

Start crocheting from the back, at the first stripe
on the back, and move toward the top of the head,
working clockwise. At the top of the head, turn and
move back toward the back.
Secure and hide the yarn ends inside the body.

Then, brush out the mane using a comb

or a regular needle. Finally, trim the mane
to an even length.

**TAIL**

Crochet the tail with dark gray yarn. Use the "herringbone" stitch instead of chain stitches.

Now we need to crochet the tuft.

Use Lanoso SINGLE yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.
Chain 7. Join to form a ring by making a slip stitch
in the first chain.
For the second round, crochet 6 sc in the half loops
of the stitches, and finish with a slip stitch.

Cut the yarn and use a needle to thread it through

the center of the tuft, pulling it downward.
Trim the ends of the yarn short and carefully
melt them with a lighter. BE VERY CAREFUL!

Next, take the tail and thread it through the center of the tuft.
Using a thin sewing needle, sew the tuft to the tail,
secure the threads, and hide them inside.

The tail is ready. Sew it under the second-to-last

gray stripe on the body.
 **SKIRT**

Use two colors for the skirt, one for the waistband and the other for the ruffles.
Take the yarn for the waistband, in my case, bright pink. Chain 7, and starting from the 2nd
chain from the hook, crochet 6 sc. Chain 1 and turn the work. All following rows are worked in
the back loops only, in turning rows. I made 32 rows until the buttonhole. Your number of
rows may differ, so fit it to your zebra.

2-32. 6 sc in back loops only, ch 1, turn;

In the next row, make the buttonhole.
33. 2 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, and from the third stitch,
crochet 2 sc = 6 sc, ch 1, turn;
34. 6 sc in back loops only.

Chain 1, and without turning the piece, sc along the top edge of the waistband. At the end,
make a slip stitch, cut the yarn, pull it to the wrong side, and secure it. Hide the end in the
stitches.

Next, attach a different color yarn to the bottom

of the skirt, in my case, purple, and crochet an
increase dc in each stitch. I got 33 inc dc.
1. Attach to the first stitch and chain 2, in the same stitch crochet 1 dc (this is the first
increase), then 32 inc dc = 33 inc dc; ch 2, turn;
The ch 2 at the end of the first row counts as 1 dc for the second row.
2. (1 dc, inc dc) * 17 times = 99 dc; ch 2, turn;
The ch 2 at the end of the second row counts as 1 dc for the third row.
3. 99 dc, ch 1.

Cut the yarn, pull it to the wrong side, secure it, and hide it in the stitches.

Now, take the bright pink yarn again and attach it to the bottom of the skirt. Hold the skirt
with the wrong side facing you. Crochet the last row with slip stitches. This way, you will have
an imitation of a pink stitch on the right side of the skirt's edge, and it will look like there is a
pink lining under the skirt.

Secure all the yarn ends on the wrong side and hide them in the stitches.

Sew the button with thin thread, and your skirt is ready.
You can now dress your zebra.