crc CROCHET TERMS AND ACRONYMS

Afghan – a crocheted (or knitted) blanket

Bi-stitchual – a person that can both crochet & knit
CAL – crochet-a-long
OAK – one of a kind
FO – finished object
FOTH (or HOTH) – fresh (or Hot) off the hks
Frog or Frogging – This is a term that you might hear when someone has to rip out some
(or all) of their work. A frog says “Ribbit” and we rip it! Get it!?
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CROCHET
CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE Copyright © 2016
by Tara Murray

All rights reserved.

No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any
manner without written permission except in the case of

WITH MAMACHEE
brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews.

For information visit: www.mamachee.com

Book and Cover design by Tara Murray.

28 TIMELESS DESIGNS FOR

HATS, COWLS, MITTS, BOOT CUFFS & MORE

WRITTEN BY TARA MURRAY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TARA MURRAY

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE

 PATTERN INDEX
4

To my Mama, Barbara Frone,

who always encouraged and fed my crafty side.

To my husband, Joshua Murray,

who loves and supports me.

To my children,
who bring me more joy than I could have
ever imagined.

To my friends and family who helped model the

designs, you guys are beautiful inside and out!

A big shout out to all of the pattern testers and

special ladies that helped me edit this book. You
guys are brilliant and gave so much of your time. I
am so very grateful to you. Thank you!

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE

 INTRODUCTION…..7

CROCHET
LINGO, TOOLS & CHARTS…..11-13
BASIC CROCHET STITCH REFRESHER…..14
STITCH ANATOMY…..15
TROUBLE SHOOTING…..16

YARN
YARN BASICS…..19-20
YARN WEIGHT CHART…..21
HOW TO SUBSTITUTE YARN…..22

COLOR
COLOR BASICS…..25
COLOR HARMONY…..27-28
COLOR INSPIRATION…..29-30

PATTERNS
MARJORIE HEADWRAP…..33
SHAYLENE HAT…..35
JANE FROST HAT…..37

CONTENTS
VINTAGE DARB HAT…..41
LINDSEY LIVELY HAT…..43
ALESSANDRA HAT…..45
IMPERIAL HAT…..47
MARJORIE SCARF…..49
TRICIA COWL…..51
LYRIC COWL …..53
HOBNAIL COWL…..57
GALILEE COWL…..59
BILLOWS COWL …..61
JENALEA HANDWARMERS…..63
HEATHER LYNN MITTS…..67
REVERIE HANDWARMERS…..71
WILY HANDWARMERS…..75
TAMARA HANDWARMERS…..79
TIFFANY PAGE HANDWARMERS…..83
JENNIFER LEE LEG WARMERS…..87
KIM ROSE BOOT CUFFS…..89
LITHE BOOT CUFFS…..91
MEGAN BOOT CUFFS…..93
REBECCA BOOT CUFFS…..95
LOLA SLIPPERS…..97
MAE’S ORIGAMI SLIPPERS…..101
OMA SLIPPERS…..105
PERFECT HOUSE SLIPPERS…..109

RESOURCES
PATTERN INDEX…..117-118
SOURCES & RECOMMEDATIONS…..119-120
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ABOUT: mamachee
Mamachee started with just one pattern (The Galilee Hat) and a
colossal love for crocheting (a magical craft!).

My angel Mom taught me how to crochet when I was a teen. It’s

needless to say that I loved it…everything about it. In my early 20’s,
I started selling crocheted hats and toys in a local baby boutique. I
did that for a year and eventually wrote up and listed my first
original design on Etsy.com in Oct of 2008. Mamachee was born.

Mamachee is a bit of a different business name but there is some

rhyme to the reason. I have German roots and grew up listening to
German music. My favorite German song was “Mamatschi” by
Heinje (you can listen to it on You Tube if you would like).
Mamatschi is a German pet-name for Mama. Realizing that this
German word might be a little difficult to spell, I decided to spell it
phonetically and there you have it: Mamachee.

Since 2008, Mamachee has grown into something I could never

have imagined. One design has grown into 150+ designs, and one
new crochet pattern shop has grown into two successful crochet
pattern shops (on Etsy.com and Ravelry.com). There is a website, a
blog, Facebook, Instagram and now, a book!

It has been, and still is, an incredible journey of creating and

discovery. I’ve only just scratched the surface of all that crochet has
to offer and there is a never-ending supply of yarn to inspire and
delight.

And so…In this book, I offer you my spin on the addictive craft of
crochet! I hope you enjoy!

ABOUT: the book

For most of the designs in this book, I’ve used acrylic-blend yarns
that are generally easy-to-find and affordable (but still great!). If
you prefer to use higher-end, natural fiber yarns or yarn you
have-on-hand, then you can read all about substituting yarn on
pg. 22. If you have trouble choosing and pairing colors then you
can find a nice bit of color info and inspiration on pgs. 25-30. If you
have trouble with a pattern be sure to check out the
troubleshooting section on pg. 16.

Whether you are a budding crocheter or a seasoned enthusiast,

this book is bursting with all the good stuff and will be a great
creative resource for your crafting library. HAPPY CROCHETING!

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 10

CROCHET
TERMS, ABBREVIATIONS, CHARTS AND MORE

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11 MAMACHEE WEBSITE
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10 REASONS TO CROCHET
1. You can create one-of-a-kind items to wear for you, your family and friends.
2. It is a mesmerizing, useful and satisfying craft.
3. As far as hobbies go, crochet is a cheap one!
4. You can easily whip up last minute gifts.
5. You can crochet just about anything. Seriously, google it!
6. You get to refer to yourself as a “hooker”….if that would tickle your funny bone.
7. Yarn will never yell at you or talk about you behind your back.
8. Many people find crocheting equal to or better than professional therapy.
9. Crocheting is a very portable craft. Stuff a project in your purse and you’re good.
10. Chuck Norris crochets (undocumented).

CROCHET TERMS AND ACRONYMS

Afghan – a crocheted (or knitted) blanket LYS – local yarn store
Bi-stitchual – a person that can both Magic circle (or magic ring) – a
crochet & knit technique to start a round.
CAL – crochet-a-long OCD – obsessive crochet disorder
OAK – one of a kind PHD – project half done
FO – finished object Stash – your yarn collection
FOTH (or HOTH) – fresh (or Hot) off the Stash Buster or yarn eater – a pattern that
hooks uses a lot of yarn.
Frog or Frogging – this is a term that you UFO – unfinished object
might hear when someone has to rip out WIP – work in progress
some (or all) of their work. A frog says Yarn barf – the clump of yarn that comes
“Ribbit” and we rip it! Get it!? out of the center of a new ball of yarn when
Hooker – a crocheter you are fishing for that center end.
Hookstache – when you place your Yarnie – a person that loves yarn

TOOLS
crochet hook above your top lip and hold it
To complete any project in this book, you'll need: Crochet hooks C-L, a few
there with or without your hands.
yarn needles, a measuring tool, stitch markers and a pair of scissors. That's
it! That is all you will need (besides the yarn).

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13 MAMACHEE WEBSITE PATTERN INDEX
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ABBREVIATIONS HOOK CONVERSION CHART STITCH GUIDE

MC – main color Slst – insert hk into indicated st, yo and pull Bptc – yo twice, insert hk around post from
METRIC SIZES AMERICAN SIZES through all lps on hk. back to front to back, yo and pull up a lp, yo
CC – contrasting color
and pull through two, yo and pull through two,
Yo – yarn over 2.25 mm B/1 Sc – insert hk into indicated st, yo and pull up a yo and pull through last two lps on hk.
Beg – beginning 2.75 mm C/2 lp, yo and pull through two lps on hk. You should be pulling your post to the back.
Rnd – round
3.25 mm D/3 Hdc – yo, insert hk into indicated st, yo and pull Sc2tog – insert hk into indicated st, yo and
Hk – hook
up a lp, yo and pull through all three lps on hk. pull up a lp, insert hk into next st, yo and pull
Ch – chain 3.5 mm F/4
up a lp, yo and pull through all three lps on hk.
Lp(s) – loop(s) 4 mm G/6 Dc – yo, insert hk into indicated st, yo and pull
up a lp, yo and pull through two, yo and pull Hdc2tog – yo, insert hk into indicated st, yo
BLO – back loop only 4.5 mm 7 through last two lps on hk. and pull up a lp, yo and pull through two, yo
FLO – front loop only and insert hk into next st, yo and pull up a lp,
5 mm H/8
*TLO – third loop only Tc – yo twice, insert hk into indicated st, yo and yo and pull through all four lps on hk.
PM – place stitch marker 5.5 mm I/9 pull up a lp, yo and pull through two, yo and pull (There are alternate ways to do this stitch but
through two, yo and pull through last two lps on
St(s) – stitch/stitches 6 mm J/10 hk. this is my favorite way.)
Slst – slip stitch 6.5 mm K/10.5
Fphdc – Yo, insert hk around post from front Dc2tog – yo, insert hk into indicated st, yo
Sc – single crochet and pull up a lp, yo and pull through two, yo
8 mm L/11 to back to front, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull
Hdc – half double crochet through all three lps on hk. and insert hk into next st, yo and pull up a lp,
Dc – double crochet 9 mm M/13 You should be pulling your post to the front. yo and pull through two, yo and pull through
last two lps on hk.
Tc – treble (or triple) crochet 10 mm N/15
Fpdc – yo, insert hk around post from front to
Fphdc – front post hdc Dc3tog – yo, insert hk into indicated st, yo
15 mm P back to front, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull
Fpdc – front post dc through two, yo and pull through last two lps on and pull up a lp, yo and pull through two, *yo
16 mm Q hk. and insert hk into next st, yo and pull up a lp,
Bpdc – back post dc
You should be pulling your post to the front. yo and pull through two, repeat from * one
Fptc – front post tc 19 mm S time, yo and pull through last four lps on hk.
Bptc – back post tc Bpdc – yo, insert hk around post from back to
front to back, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull Dc5tog – yo, insert hk into indicated st, yo
Sc2tog – sc two together
and pull up a lp, yo and pull through two, *yo
through two, yo and pull through last two lps on
Hdc2tog – hdc two together and insert hk into next st, yo and pull up a lp,
hk.
Dc2tog – dc two together yo and pull through two, repeat from * three
You should be pulling your post to the back.
Dc3tog – dc three together times, yo and pull through last six lps on hk.
Dc5tog – dc five together For more information on the Fptc – yo twice, insert hk around post from front
to back to front, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull
back hump, third loop or through two, yo and pull through two, yo and
The above list does not include special sts pull through last two lps on hk.
found in the patterns. Each special st will be horizontal bar, see pg. #15. You should be pulling your post to the front.
described in there pattern notes.
*The third loop is also known as the
horizontal bar.

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ANATOMY CLASS TROUBLE SHOOTING

BASICS Q: MY FINISHED PROJECT HAS TURNED OUT WAY TOO BIG/SMALL. WHAT CAN I DO?
A: This is a gauge issue. This could happen because you crochet looser or tighter than the designer of your project or it could be
A crochet st is made up of three basic parts: the front
because the yarn that you are using (if you substituted yarn) is thicker or thinner than the suggested yarn. The first thing you need to
loop, the back loop and the post. Unless your pattern
do is check your gauge and adjust your hook. If you are unable to obtain the correct gauge then that usually means that the yarn you
says otherwise, you will always crochet under both
are using is not a suitable substitute. (See pg. 22 for more on substituting yarn and gauge.)
the front and back loops.
Post stitches are worked around your post, either Q: I CAN’T GET MY STITCH COUNTS TO COME OUT RIGHT. WHAT’S GOING ON?
pulling the post to the front (front post) or pulling the A: When this happens, it is usually an issue with the joining area. Pay close attention to any joining notes in the pattern and if you
post to the back (back post). have trouble seeing what your first or last stitch is then stitch markers are life savers. Grab a stitch marker or two and mark the first
and/or last stitch of your work.
Notes on joining: For the patterns in this book, when asked to join you will always join with a slst into the first stitch of your round. Un-
THIRD LOOP (or horizontal bar) less otherwise stated, the beginning chains (aka turning chains) are not counted as a stitch for the patterns in this book.
The half double crochet has another loop that can Never work a stitch into your slst joins. Slst joins do not count as a stitch.
be worked in, called the third loop. The third loop is If you turn your work after your join, it helps to note that the front and back loops of your sts will be located to the left of their posts.
located behind, and runs parallel to, the back loop. Also remember that you joined with a slst to the first st of the previous rnd, which, since you turned your work, will count as the last st
Keep in mind that if you turn your work, the third loop of your current rnd.
will then be located in front of and below the front If you do not turn your work after your join, then remember, even though you joined with a slst into the first st of the previous rnd, it
loop. still counts as a stitch. It also helps to note that if you do not turn your work then the front and back loops of your sts will be located to
the right of their posts.
If the pattern that you’re working on does not join rows, be sure to read over the pattern carefully, taking note of words like: same and
next. Also be sure to read any notes the pattern may have to offer.
FOUNDATION CHAIN & BACK HUMP
Q: MY FINISHED PROJECT DOESN’T LOOK THE SAME AS THE PICTURE. WHAT IS HAPPENING?
All of your crochet projects will begin with a foundation
A: This could be happening for many different reasons. I am using American Standard crochet terms.
chain.
If you are unsure of a stitch then maybe you are doing it wrong? (See stitch guide on pg. 14)
Each chain consists of three parts: the front loop, the
If you are a beginning crocheter, it may be an uneven tension issue and that will just take some time to even out.
back loop and the back hump. The front and back loops
You may have your item turned inside out. That is easy to do and happens to crocheters everywhere. In a few of the patterns in this
together, make your “hearts” or “stacked Vs” (top chain).
book, there are some random turning changes which can be easy to miss, be sure to read through the pattern carefully!
The *back hump of the chain stitch is located on the
Are you working under both the front and back loops of your stitches? Unless otherwise stated in a crochet pattern, you should always
back side of the front and back loops (bottom chain).
work under both the front and back loops.

Q: I CAN’T GET MY GAUGE TO COME OUT RIGHT. WHAT SHOULD I DO?

A: If, for some reason, you can only obtain the stitch gauge and not the row gauge or vice versa, then it is usually best to go with your
stitch gauge. Think about the project that you will be working on and decide which gauge is the most crucial to the fit of your project.
If you can niot get the gauge anywhere close then you will need to go up or down a yarn weight.

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YARN
19 MAMACHEE WEBSITE
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YARN BASICS WHAT’S THAT YARN?

There are many different spinning and/or dyeing
I once heard someone refer to yarn as techniques used to get the phenominal variety of yarns
their “flexible friends” and I could not help offered to us. Some yarns are spun then dyed, other
but smile. Yarn is absolutely a flexible yarns are dyed, spun, then dyed again. Below you will
friend. I love it all and while some yarn find a list of the yarns that you may come across.
is more suitable for certain projects,
it all inspires and makes me feel like a SOLID: A yarn dyed in a single color.
child in a candy shop.

You can buy yarn in a few different ways: 1 2 VARIEGATED: (with short or *long color-repeats)
A yarn dyed in several different colors or shades of a
1. Ball single color that repeat.
2. *Blank (Sock Blank)
3. Cake OMBRE OR GRADIENT: A yarn dyed with very
4. Hank gradual changes in color with no repeats. (not pictured
5. Skein on left)

5
* A blank is generally used to make socks. SPECKLED: A yarn that is randomly speckled (or
It's machine knitted with two strands of splashed) with one color or many colors of dye.
sock weight yarn, then dyed (usually dip
dyed) so that when you work up your TWEED: A yarn that is flecked with bits of fiber in
socks, both socks will match. You can find different colors.
single strand blanks and blanks in other
4
weights. So fun! 3 MARL: A plied yarn in which the plies are different
colors.
Yarn Ply: Yarn ply is the number of little
strands twisted (or spun) together that HEATHER: A yarn that is blended with a number of
make up yarn. Generally, a yarn with a different-colored or dyed fleeces, and then spun.
higher ply is more durable and has
better stitch definition. Keep in mind that *variegated yarn with long color repeats is also re-
yarn ply is not a good indicator of yarn weight. A 4 ply yarn is not necessarily thicker than a 2 ply yarn, it all ferred to as self-striping yarn.
depends on how big the individual strands are. For example, you can purchase a 1 ply bulky weight yarn (roving)
or a 10 ply worsted weight yarn.

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YARN CLASSIFICATION CHART SUBSTITUTING YARN

YARN WEIGHT SYMBOL RECOMMENDED 4 THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN SUBBING YARN

(US/UK&AU) (YARNSTANDARDS.COM) (HOOK SIZE)
1. WEIGHT. The first thing to consider when substituting yarns is the weight classification. If your
pattern calls for a worsted weight yarn, your best bet is to pick another worsted weight yarn.
Steel Hook 6, 7, 8 – Unfortunately, this is not fail-safe. I’ve seen lots of worsted weight yarns that seem closer to a bulky
Lace / 1-2 ply weight and I’ve seen some DK yarn that works up just like a worsted. Weight classification seems to
Hook B
vary a bit between yarn brands so be aware and always check your gauge (more on gauge below).
2. FIBER. The different fibers used in yarn have different characteristics that could be important to
your finished project. Pay attention to the loft, drape, or stretch that your project may need. In most
Sock, Fingering / 3-4 ply Hook B – E
cases it is best to try and stick to the fiber that the pattern calls for.
3. YARDAGE. Make sure that you pay attention to the yardage needed in the pattern so that
you purchase enough yarn to complete your project.
Sport, Baby / 5 ply Hook E – 7 4. GAUGE. Gauge does not always matter with every project (like blankets or a dishcloth) but
when size matters, gauge matters. Even when you’re using the yarn that your pattern calls for,
the gauge is still important because not everyone crochets with the same tension. The person
that designed your pattern may crochet tighter or looser than you do. So, you can see how it’s extra
Dk, Light Worsted / 8 ply Hook 7 – I
important to check your gauge when substituting yarn.
If your item or gauge turns out too big, you need to go down a hook size.
If your item or gauge turns out too small, you need to go up a hook size.
Worsted / Aran, 10 ply Hook I – K

How to check your gauge:

Your pattern should include a gauge that looks like this: 6 rows and 6 sc = 2” square
Bulky / 12 ply Hook K – M
First, check out what stitch is being used. In this case, it’s single crochet (sc). You’ll need to work your gauge
swatch a few stitches wider and few rows longer than the gauge calls for. So I would work 10 rows of 10
single crochets (sc). Once you are completed with your swatch, grab a ruler and see how many stitches and
Super Bulky / 14 ply Hook M – Q rows are in a 2” space (or 2" square). If it is more than 6, you will need to go up a hook size. If it is less than
6, you will need to go down a hook size.
For further help with gauge, YouTube is a great resource for crocheters.
It is worth noting that you can also double up your yarn to achieve a different weight.
Jumbo Hook Q + For example: 2 strands of fingering = 1 strand of sport

YARN WEIGHT = YARN THICKNESS

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COLOR
25 MAMACHEE WEBSITE

COLOR
Half the fun of crocheting is buying the yarn and picking from all the beautiful yarn colors! But this can also
be a daunting task. This section on color should help.

Just remember...when it comes to creativity, there are no rules!

The following is meant to be a light guide to help YOUR creativity flow.

First, let’s learn a little about color terms.

Hue – Just a color on the wheel. The word color and hue can be used interchangeably.
...The afghan is very old and has lost its bright hues.
…I like to use pale hues when crocheting for babies.
…Burgundy’s root hue is red.
…Navy’s root hue is blue.
“One can speak poetry
Black and white are not hues and are not present on the wheel, but they play a huge role in color!
You will see how with these next color terms...
just by arranging
Tint – When a color (or hue) is made lighter with white.
color well.”
Shade – When a color (or hue) is made darker with black.

Tone – When a color (or hue) is made dull with both black and white together (gray). - Vincent Van Gogh
Cool colors – Violet, blues, and greens.
Grays and white are your cool neutral colors.

Warm colors – Yellow, orange, red, pinks, beige, browns and black.
Cream, beige, brown and black are your warm neutral colors.

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We are ready to talk about COLOR HARMONY.

Colors are said to be in harmony when their pairing is pleasing to the eye. Your brain sees the colors
together and says, “That’s nice!” The following harmonies are not necessarily a color picker but a color
relationship tool. Once you decide on the harmony that you want to use you can use it as a guide to pick
your colors.

For example: You decide to use the complimentary color harmony and see that yellow and purple work well
together. Now you have some direction and from there you may decide to pick a dark muted purple with a
browned yellow or maybe you decide on a light lavender as your base color and use a splash of bright
yellow for a lightly used contrasting color.
SPLIT-COMPLIMENTARY: This is a variation of COMPOUND: This is another variation of the
the complimentary color harmony, still with great complimentary color harmony.
BASIC COLOR WHEEL FORMULAS: contrast but with a little less punch.

COLOR WHEEL: This is a yarn-ball color wheel... COMPLIMENTARY: These are colors opposite TRIAD: These are three colors that are spaced ANALOGOUS: Pick two-six colors next to each
and probably the loveliest color wheel I’ve ever each other on the color wheel. You are mixing a evenly around the color wheel. Try picking one other on the color wheel. These colors will create a
seen. You can see that the cool colors are on the cool color with a warm color; this creates great dominant color and using the other two colors as piece that flows well.
left and the warm colors are on the right. depth and will give you a vibrant look with accents.
beautiful contrast.

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29 PATTERN INDEX
30
4 1

5
COLOR INSPIRATION
More color pairing ideas for your crochet projects:
2 1.) MONOCHROME: Pick several colors (shades, tints, and tones) in one hue.

7 3 2.) OMBRE: Just like monochrome but ombre will keep the colors in order, gradually flowing from
light to dark. Very beautiful!

3.) TWO TONE: Pick one hue and pair two colors in that one hue. Mix a bright blue with a muted
blue or pair a brick red with a mauve. This pairing works well with many projects.
6
4.) NEUTRALS WITH A POP: Pick one or more neutral colors and one bright color (hue) for your
pop (or accent). This combo is hard to mess up!

5.) HIGH CONTRAST: Think white and black or a deep shade with a pale tint. BAM!

6.) RAINBOW: Use all the hues! Use the whole color wheel or stick with the 7 main colors of the
rainbow (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, Indigo, violet…ROYGBIV).
2
7 7.) PERFECTLY COLORFUL: Pick all the pretty colors and pair them with a neutral or two.
Pairing lots of color with a calming neutral will help the colors pop.

4 5

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CROCHET
PATTERNS
PATTERN INDEX
34

MARJORIE HEADWRAP
MATERIALS Ch 87
H (5 mm) Hook Row 1 – Working in back hump for this row, slst in
Worsted Weight Yarn 2nd ch from hk, slst in next 9, hdc in next 10, *slst in
Yarn Needle next 4, hdc in next 10, repeat from * up to last 10, slst
Scissors in last 10. (86)
1 – 1 ¼” Button Row 2 – Ch 1 and turn, working in blo, slst in first 10,
hdc in next 10, *slst in next 4, hdc in next 10, repeat
GAUGE from * up to last 10, slst in last 10. (86)
12 dc and 6 rows = 2” square Row 3 through Row 4 – Repeat Row 2
Row 5 – Ch 1 and turn, working in blo, slst in first 17,
YARN NOTES hdc in next 10, *slst in next 4, hdc in next 10, repeat
I used 1 skein of Red Heart Soft Yarn. from * up to last 17, slst in last 17. (86)
Row 6 through Row 8 – Repeat Row 5
Each skein of Soft Yarn is:
Row 9 – Ch 1 and turn, working in blo, slst in first 10,
5 oz. (141 g)/ 256 yds. (234 m)
hdc in next 10, *slst in next 4, hdc in next 10, repeat
Color: Dark Grass from * up to last 10, slst in last 10. (86)
Row 10 through Row 12 – Repeat Row 9.
Yardage: 70 yds.
Once you’ve complete Row 12, you’ll be ready to
form your button lp. Ch 6, slst to the opposite corner,
PATTERN NOTES
Ch 1 and turn, work 6 scs into your ch space, fasten
You will not count your beginning ch as a st.
off with a slst st and weave in all ends. Sew on
Finished headwrap, when lying flat, measures 20 ½”
Button.
long and 3” wide.

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PATTERN INDEX
36

SHAYLENE HAT
MATERIALS Ch 73
I (5.5 mm) Hook Row 1 – working in back hump of foundation ch, slst
Worsted Weight Yarn in 2nd ch from hk, slst in next, sc in each ch across.
Yarn Needle (72)
Scissors Rnd 2 – in blo, sc in first slst of Row 1, forming a rnd
Stitch Marker (be careful not to twist Row 1), sc in each st around.
(72)
GAUGE Note: The little jag created when forming your
8 sc and 7 rows = 2” square rnd can be sewn together with your tail when you
weave in your ends.
YARN NOTES Rnd 3 through Rnd 9 – Repeat Rnd 2.
I used 1 skein Deborah Norville Everyday Soft Wor- Rnd 10 – in blo, hdc in first 2, dc in last 70. (72)
sted. Rnd 11 – in blo, hdc in first 2, sc in last 70. (72)
Rnd 12 through Rnd 17 – (Repeat Rnd 10 and Rnd
Each skein of Everyday is:
11) 3 times.
4 oz. (113 g.)/ 203 yds. (186 m.)
Rnd 18 – in blo, hdc2tog, dc in next, (dc2tog, dc in
Color: Aubergine next) around. (48)
Rnd 19 – in blo, hdc in first 2, sc around. (48)
Yardage: 110 yds.
Rnd 20 – in blo, hdc2tog, dc in next, (dc2tog, dc in
next) around. (32)
PATTERN NOTES
Rnd 21 – in blo, hdc in first 2, sc around. (32)
Pattern is worked in the round (spiral), there is no
Rnd 22 – in blo, hdc2tog, (dc2tog) around. (16)
turning or joining. Use a stitch marker to mark the
Rnd 23 – in blo, hdc in first, sc in next, slst in next,
beginning of each rnd.
fasten off leaving a long enough tail to weave around
Hat is worked from brim up to crown.
hole and cinch closed. Weave in all ends.
Finished hat, when lying flat, measures 10” wide and
8 ½” tall.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - SHAYLENE HAT

PATTERN INDEX
38

JANE FROST HAT

MATERIALS Ch 73
I (5.5 mm) Hook Row 1 – Working in back hump for this row, sc in
Worsted Weight Yarn 2nd ch from hk and in each ch across, join with a slst
Stitch Marker to first sc of row forming a rnd. (72)
Yarn Needle Note: The little jag created when forming your rnd
Scissors can be sewn tog when you weave in your ends.
Rnd 2 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (72)
GAUGE Rnd 3 – Repeat Rnd 2
10 rows and 9 sc = 2” square Rnd 4 – Ch 1, fpdc in each st around, join. (72)
Rnd 5 – Ch 1, dc in first, fpdc in same, fpdc in next
YARN NOTES 5, skip next, fpdc in next 5, *dc in next, fpdc in same,
I used 1 skein of Deborah Norville Alpaca Dance. fpdc in next 5, skip next, fpdc in next 5, repeat from *
around, join. (72)
Each skein of Alpaca Dance is:
Rnd 6 – Ch 1, fpdc in first, dc in next, fpdc in same,
3.5 oz. (100 g)/ 371 yds. (339 m)
fpdc in next 5, skip next, fpdc in next 4, *fpdc in next,
Color: Mist dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 5, skip next,
fpdc in next 4, repeat from * around, join.
Yardage: 220 yds.
Rnd 7 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 2, dc in next, fpdc in same,
fpdc in next 5, skip next, fpdc in next 3, *fpdc in next
PATTERN NOTES
2, dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 5, skip next,
You will not count your beg ch as a st. Finished hat
fpdc in next 3, repeat from * around, join.
measures 9” wide & 8” tall. Hat is worked from brim
Rnd 8 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 3, dc in next, fpdc in same,
to crown. Be careful to not crochet the foundation
fpdc in next 5, skip next, fpdc in next 2, *fpdc in next
ch too tight. If you know that you have trouble with
3, dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 5, skip next,
your foundation chains being on the tight side then
fpdc in next 2, repeat from * around, join.
it might be a good idea to try and use a larger size
Rnd 9 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 4, dc in next, fpdc in same,
hook.
fpdc in next 5, skip next fpdc in next, *fpdc in next
4, dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 5, skip next,
fpdc in next, repeat from * around, join.
Rnd 10 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 5, dc in next, fpdc in
same, fpdc in next 5, skip next, *fpdc in next 5, dc in
next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 5, skip next, repeat
from * around, join.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - JANE FROST HAT

39 MAMACHEE WEBSITE PATTERN INDEX
40
Rnd 11 – Ch 1, fpdc in each st around, join.
Rnd 12 through Rnd 25 – (Repeat Rnd 5
through Rnd 11) 2 times.
Rnd 26 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 4, skip next, *fpdc in
next 5, skip next, repeat from * up to last, fpdc in
last, join. (60)
Rnd 27 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 3, skip next, *fpdc in
next 4, skip next, repeat from * up to last, fpdc in
last, join. (48)
Rnd 28 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 2, skip next, *fpdc in
next 3, skip next, repeat from * up to last, fpdc in
last, join. (36)
Rnd 29 – Ch 1, fpdc in first, skip next, *fpdc in next
2, skip next, repeat from * up to last, fpdc in last,
join. (24)
Rnd 30 – Ch 1, fpdc in first, skip next, *fpdc in
next, skip next, repeat from * around, join. (12)
Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to weave
around opening and cinch opening closed. Weave
in all ends.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - JANE FROST HAT CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - JANE FROST HAT
PATTERN INDEX
42

VINTAGE DARB HAT

MATERIALS Ch 3
J (6 mm) Hook Rnd 1 – work 10 hdc in 3rd ch from hk, join with slst
Worsted Weight Yarn to first hdc of rnd. (10)
Yarn Needle Rnd 2 – Ch 1, work 2hdc in each st around, join. (20)
Scissors Rnd 3 – Ch 1, (hdc in next, 2hdc in next) around, join.
(30)
GAUGE Rnd 4 – Ch 1, (hdc in next 2, 2hdc in next) around,
6 hdc and 6 rows = 2” square join. (40)
Rnd 5 – Ch 1, (hdc in next 3, 2hdc in next) around,
YARN NOTES join. (50)
I used one skein of Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice. Rnd 6 – Ch 1, (hdc in next 4, 2hdc in next) around,
join. (60)
Each skein of Vanna’s Choice is:
Rnd 7 – Ch 1, hdc in each st around, join. (60)
3.5 oz. (100 g)/ 170 yds. (156 m)
Rnd 8 through Rnd 16 – Repeat Rnd 7
Color: Scarlet Rnd 17 – Ch 1 and turn, working in blo, hdc in next
27, slst in next 6, hdc in next 27, join. (60)
Yardage: 110 yds.
Rnd 18 through Rnd 21 – Repeat Rnd 17
Note: Rnd 17 through Rnd 21 are worked entirely in
PATTERN NOTES
blo.
You will not count your beg ch as a st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Hat is worked from crown to brim.
Finished hat measures 8” tall and 9 ½” wide.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - VINTAGE DARB HAT

PATTERN INDEX
44

LINDSEY LIVELY HAT

MATERIALS Ch 3,
I (5.5 mm) Hook Rnd 1 – Work 10dc into 3rd ch from hk, join with slst
Worsted Weight Yarn to first dc of rnd. (10)
Yarn Needle Rnd 2 – Ch 2, work 3dc in each st around, join. (30)
Scissors Rnd 3 – Ch 2, work 2dc in first 2, 3dc in next, (2dc in
next 2, 3dc in next) around, join. (70)
GAUGE Rnd 4 – Ch 1, hdc in each st around, join. (70)
7 dc and 4 rows = 2” square Note: Your work will look very cramped for a little
while, don’t worry! It will all work out.
YARN NOTES Rnd 5 – Ch 2, working in third loop only, dc in each
I used 1 skein of Lion Brand Wool Ease. st around, join. (70)
Note: See the nice row of skipped front and back
Each skein of Wool Ease is:
lps, for this pattern, these rows are called Cable
3 oz. (85 g)/ 197 yds. (180 m)
Rows.
Color: Blush Heather Rnd 6 – Ch 1, hdc in first 4, CCRhdc in next, *hdc in
next 4, CCRhdc in next, repeat from * around, join.
Yardage: 170 yds.
(70)
Rnd 7 – Repeat Rnd 5
PATTERN NOTES
Rnd 8 – Ch 1, skip first, hdc in next, CCRhdc in next,
You will not count your beg ch as a st.
*hdc in next 4, CCRhdc in next, repeat from * up to
Finished hat measures 8 ½” tall and 10” wide.
last 2, hdc in next, 2hdc in last, join.
Rnd 9 through Rnd 24 – (Repeat Rnd 5 through
SPECIAL STITCHES
Rnd 8) 4 times.
Connect cable row (CCR) – Work your st into the
Rnd 25 through Rnd 26 – Repeat Rnd 5 then
corresponding st of the lower Cable Row. For example: If
Rnd 6
you are working a CCR in the 5th st of your current row,
Rnd 27 – hdc in first, sc in next 3, *hdc in next 2,
you will work it into the 5th st of the lower cable row.
sc in next 3, repeat from * up to last, hdc in last, join
How to work CCR with a hdc (CCRhdc): yo, insert hk into
(70)
the skipped front and back lps of the corresponding st
Rnd 28 – sc in first 2, CCRsc in next, *sc in next 4,
of the Cable Row below, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull
CCRsc in next, repeat from * up to last 2, sc in last 2,
through all three lps on hk.
join. (70)
How to work CCR with a sc (CCRsc): insert hk into the
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
skipped front and back lps of the corresponding st of the
cable row below, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through
the two lps on hk.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - LINDSEY LIVELY HAT

PATTERN INDEX
46

ALESSANDRA HAT
MATERIALS Rnd 2 – Ch 1, sc in first, fpdc in next 2, *sc in next,
D (3.25 mm) Hook fpdc in next 2, repeat from * around, join.
Fingering (sock) Weight Yarn Rnd 3 through Rnd 10 – Repeat Rnd 2
Yarn Needle Rnd 11 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 11, work cluster,
Scissors *dc in next 11, work cluster, repeat from * around,
join. (10 clusters made)
GAUGE Rnd 12 – Ch 2 and turn, dc around, join. (120)
11 dc and 6 rows = 2” square Rnd 13 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 5, work cluster,
*dc in next 11, work cluster, repeat from * up to last 6,
YARN NOTES dc in last 6, join.
I used 1 skein of Paton’s Lace Yarn. Rnd 14 – Ch 2 and turn, dc around, join.
Rnd 15 through Rnd 22 – (Repeat Rnd 11 through
Each skein of Lace is:
Rnd 14) 2 times.
3 oz. (85 g)/ 498 yds. (455 m)
Rnd 23 – Ch 2 and turn, *dc2tog, dc in next 7,
Color: Arctic Plum dc2tog, work cluster, repeat from * around, join. (100)
Rnd 24 – Repeat Rnd 14
Yardage: 270 yds.
Rnd 25 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 3, dc2tog, work
cluster, *dc2tog, dc in next 5, dc2tog, work cluster, re-
PATTERN NOTES
peat from * up to last 5, dc2tog, dc in last 3, join. (80)
You will not count your beginning ch as a st. Finished
Rnd 26 – Repeat Rnd 14
hat, when lying flat, measures 8 ¼” tall and 10” wide.
Rnd 27 – Ch 2 and turn, *dc2tog, dc in next 3, dc-
2tog, work cluster, repeat from * around, join. (60)
SPECIAL STITCHES
Rnd 28 – Repeat Rnd 14
Double Crochet Cluster (Cluster) – yo, insert hk into
Rnd 29 – Ch 2 and turn, dc2tog, work cluster, *dc-
indicated st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through
2tog, dc in next, dc2tog, work cluster, repeat from *
two lps, *yo, insert hk into SAME st, yo and pull up a
up to last 3, dc2tog, dc in last, join. (40)
lp, yo and pull through two, repeat from * 3 times, yo
Rnd 30 – Repeat Rnd 14
and pull through all 6 lps on hk.
Rnd 31 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first, dc2tog, work
cluster, *dc2tog, dc in next 3, dc2tog, work cluster,
Ch 121
repeat from * up to last 4, dc2tog, dc in last 2, join. (5
Row 1 – sc in 2nd ch from hk, dc in next 2, *sc in
clusters made)
next, dc in next 2, repeat from * across, join with a
Rnd 32 – Ch 2 and turn, dc2tog around, join. (15)
slst to first sc of row forming a rnd. (120)
Fasten off, leave a long enough tail to weave around
Note: Use end to sew closed little jag when you
hole and cinch closed. Weave in ends.
weave in your ends.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - ALESSANDRA HAT

PATTERN INDEX
48

IMPERIAL HAT
MATERIALS With MC, Ch 28
J (6 mm) Hook Row 1 – hdc in 2nd ch from hk, hdc in each ch
Worsted Weight Yarn across. (27)
Yarn Needle Row 2 – Ch 1 and turn, working in blo, hdc in each
Scissors st across. (27)
Row 3 through Row 38 – Repeat Row 2
GAUGE Your finished rectangle should measure 7 ½” wide
7 ½ hdc and 4 rows = 2” square and 17” long.
Ch 1 and turn, now fold your work in half so that the
YARN NOTES back lps of Row 38 are parallel to the foundation ch.
I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in two colors, you’ll Insert hk under the back lp of Row 38 and the ad-
need 1 skein each. jacent foundation ch, slst across. Fasten off, leaving
a 5-8” tail. Use your tail to cinch the top of your hat
Each skein of Vanna’s Choice is:
closed and weave in your ends.
3.5 oz. (100 g)/ 170 yds. (156 m)
Turn your hat right side out so that the seam is on
Color: MC – Silver Gray, CC – Linen the inside and work the brim.

Yardage: 100 yds. BRIM

Take a look at the 19 knit look ridges of your hat. Pick
PATTERN NOTES one of the ridges close to your seam and with CC,
You will not count your beg ch as a st. insert your hk from front to back and pull up a lp.
Finished hat measures 9” wide and 8 ½” tall. Rnd 1 – Ch 2, work 3dc in each “knit look ridge”
around, join with slst to first dc of rnd. (57)
Rnd 2 – Ch 1, do not turn, sc in each st around, join.
(57)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - IMPERIAL HAT

PATTERN INDEX
50

MARJORIE SCARF
MATERIALS Row 9 – Ch 1 and turn, working in blo, slst in first 4,
J (6 mm) Hook *hdc in next 10, slst in next 4, repeat from * across.
Worsted Weight Yarn Row 10 through Row 12 – Repeat Row 9
Yarn Needle Row 13 through Row 20 – Repeat Row 5 through
Scissors Row 12
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
GAUGE
6 hdc and 4 ½ rows = 2” square

YARN NOTES
I used 2 skeins of Cascade Pacific.

Each skein of Pacific is:

3.5 oz. (100 g)/ 213 yds. (230 m)

Color: Grass

Yardage: 360 yds.

PATTERN NOTES
You will not count your beginning ch as a st.
Finished Scarf measures 75” long and 6 ½” wide.

Ch 229
Row 1 – Working in back hump for this row, slst in
2nd ch from hk, slst in next 3, *hdc in next 10, slst in
next 4, repeat from * across. (228)
Row 2 – Ch 1 and turn, working in blo, slst in first 4,
*hdc in next 10, slst in next 4, repeat from * across.
Row 3 through Row 4 – Repeat Row 2
Row 5 – Ch 1 and turn, working in blo, hdc in next
7, slst in next 4, *hdc in next 10, slst in next 4, repeat
from * up to last 7, hdc in last 7.
Row 6 through Row 8 – Repeat Row 5

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - MARJORIE SCARF

PATTERN INDEX
52

TRICIA COWL
MATERIALS Ch 97
J (9 mm) Hook Row 1 – Working in back hump for this row, slst in
Worsted Weight Yarn 2nd ch from hk and in next 17, sc in next 60, slst in
Yarn Needle last 18. (96)
Scissors Note: From here on, the entire scarf will be worked
3 – 1” Buttons in blo.
Row 2 – Ch 1 and turn, working in blo, slst in first 18,
GAUGE sc in next 60, slst in last 18.
6 ½ sc and 8 rows = 2” square Row 3 through Row 6 – Repeat Row 2
Row 7 – Ch 1 and turn, working in blo, slst in first 3,
YARN NOTES Ch 2, skip 2, slst in next 13, sc in next 60, slst in last 18.
I used 1 skein Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice. Row 8 – Ch 1 and turn, working in blo, slst in first 18,
sc in next 60, slst in last 18. (Note: work in the blo of
Each skein of Vanna’s Choice is:
the 2 ch sts also)
3.5 oz. (100 g)/ 170 yds. (156 m)
Row 9 through Row 14 – Repeat Row 2
Color: Linen Row 15 through Row 22 – Repeat Row 7 through
Row 14
Yardage: 160 yds.
Row 23 through Row 29 – Repeat Row 7 through
Row 13
PATTERN NOTES
Fasten off and weave in all ends. Place and sew on
You will not count your beg ch as a st.
buttons.
Finished cowl, when lying flat and unbuttoned, mea-
sures 28” long and 7” wide.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - TRICIA COWL

PATTERN INDEX
54

LYRIC COWL
MATERIALS Note: The third loop that you stitch marked will be
J (6 mm) Hook used to help you with joining Rnd 4.
Worsted Weight Yarn Rnd 2 – With MC, Ch 1, sc in each st around, join.
Yarn Needle (80)
Scissors Rnd 3 – Ch 2, dc in each st around, join. (80)
Stitch Marker Rnd 4 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, fold your work
back so that your back lps are touching the third lps
GAUGE of row 1 (forming a tube), now work your join into the
8 dc and 3 ½ rows = 2” square back lp of the first sc (of this rnd) and into the third lp
of Row 1. (80)
YARN NOTES Rnd 5 – With CC, Ch 1, you will work this rnd in the
I used Deborah Norville Alpaca Dance in two colors, back lps of Rnd 4 and the third lps of Row 1 (closing
you’ll need 1 skein each. the “tube”), sc around, join. (80)
Rnd 6 – Ch 1, hdc in first (PM in third lp of first hdc),
Each skein of Alpaca Dance is:
hdc around, join. (80)
3.5 oz. (100 g)/ 371 yds. (339 m)
Rnd 7 – With MC, Ch 1, sc in each st around, join.
Note: Alpaca Dance is classified as a #4 worsted
(80)
weight yarn. I believe it crochets more like a DK.
Rnd 8 – Ch 2, dc in each st around, join. (80)
Color: MC – blueberry, CC – soft white Rnd 9 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, fold your work
back so that your back lps are touching the third lps
Yardage: 370 yds
of row 1, now work your join into the back lp of the
first st (of this rnd) and into the third lp from three
PATTERN NOTES
rows down.
You will not count your beg ch as a st.
Rnd 10 – With CC, Ch 1, you will work this rnd into
Finished cowl measures 12” wide and 7” tall.
the back lps of current rnd and the third lps from 4
PM – place marker
rows down, sc around, join. (80)
When changing color, just drop your working colors
Rnd 11 – Ch 1, hdc in first (PM in third lp of first hdc),
so that you can pick (drag) them up later in the
hdc around, join. (80)
pattern.
Rnd 12 through Rnd 56 – (Repeat Rnd 7 through
Rnd 11) 9 times
With CC, Ch 81
Rnd 57 through Rnd 60 – Repeat Rnd 7 through
Row 1 – Working in back hump for this row, hdc in
Rnd 10.
2nd ch from hk (PM in third lp of this first hdc), hdc
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
in each ch across, join with a slst to first hdc of rnd
forming a lp. (80)

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - LYRIC COWL

55 MAMACHEE WEBSITE PATTERN INDEX
56

Here you can see that

I’ve worked Rnd 1
through Rnd 4 and am
now ready to join Rnd 4.

You can see here that I

have my hook inserted
in the back lp of Rnd 4
and the third lp of Row 1
and am ready to
complete my join.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - LYRIC COWL CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - LYRIC COWL
PATTERN INDEX
58

HOBNAIL COWL
MATERIALS Rnd 2 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in each st around. (75)
K (6.5 mm) Hook Rnd 3 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first, etr in next, *sc in
Worsted Weight Yarn next 2, etr in next, repeat from * up to last, sc in last,
Yarn Needle join.
Scissors Rnd 4 – Repeat Rnd 2.
Stitch Marker (optional) Rnd 5 – Ch 1 and turn, etr in first, sc in next 2, *etr in
next, sc in next 2, repeat from * around, join.
GAUGE Rnd 6 – Repeat Rnd 2.
6 dc and 3 rows = 2” square Rnd 7 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first 2, etr in next, *sc in
next 2, etr in next, repeat from * around, join.
YARN NOTES Rnd 8 through Rnd 19 – (Repeat Rnd 2 through
I used 1 skein of Red Heart With Love. Rnd 7) 2 times.
Rnd 20 through Rnd 23 – Repeat Rnd 2 through
Each skein of With Love is:
Rnd 5.
7 oz. (198 g)/ 370 yds. (356 m)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Color: Berry Red

Yardage: 220 yds.

PATTERN NOTES
You will not count your beg ch as a st.
Finished cowl measures 13” wide and 9 ½” tall.

SPECIAL STITCHES
Extended treble crochet (etr) – yo twice, insert hk
into indicated st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull
through 1, (yo and pull through 2) 3 times.

Ch 76
Row 1 – sc in 2nd ch from hk, sc in next, etr in next,
*sc in next 2, etr in next, repeat from * around, join
with a slst to first sc of rnd forming a lp. (75)
Note: When working an odd # rnds, you are look-
ing at the wrong side of your work and your etr
posts should be squishing out toward the right side.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - HOBNAIL COWL

PATTERN INDEX
60

GALILEE COWL
MATERIALS Rnd 4 – Ch 1, sc in first, ch 1, skip 1, (sc in next, ch 1,
K (6.5 mm) Hook skip 1) around, join. (40 ch 1 spaces made)
With Color C
Worsted Weight Yarn
Rnd 5 – Ch 2, work 2dc in each ch 1 space around,
Yarn Needle
join. (40 dc clusters made)
Scissors With Color A
Rnd 6 – Ch 2, work 2dc in between each cluster
GAUGE around, join. (40 dc clusters made)
4 rows and 6 dc = 2” square Note: First cluster will be worked directly below
beginning ch.
With Color B
YARN NOTES Rnd 7 – Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 1, skip 1, (sc in next,
I used Deborah Norville Everyday Soft Worsted ch 1, skip 1) around, join. (40 ch 1 spaces made)
in 3 colors, you’ll need 1 skein each. With Color A
Rnd 8 – Ch 1, work 2sc in each ch 1 space around,
Each skein of Everyday is:
join. (40 sc clusters made)
4 oz. (113 g.)/ 203 yds. (186 m.) Rnd 9 – Ch 2, dc in each st around, join. (80)
Rnd 10 through Rnd 16 – Repeat Rnd 9
Color A (MC): Steel
With Color B
Color B (CC): Mist
Rnd 17 – Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 1, skip 1, (sc in next,
Color C (CC): Violet ch 1, skip 1) around, join. (40 ch 1 spaces made)
With Color A
Yardage: 190 yds.
Rnd 18 – Ch 2, work 2dc in each ch 1 space around,
join. (40 dc clusters made)
PATTERN NOTES With Color C
You will not count your beg ch as a st. Finished Rnd 19 – Ch 2, work 2dc in between each cluster
cowl measures 13” wide and 9” tall. around, join. (40 dc cluster made)
Note: First cluster will be worked directly below
With Color A, Ch 81, beginning ch.
Row 1 – Working in back hump for this row, sc in With Color B
2nd ch from hk, sc in each st across, join with slst to Rnd 20 – Ch 2 (count 2nd ch as first ch 1 space),
first sc of row forming a lp. (80) sc in between first 2 dc clusters, (ch 1, sc in between
Note: you can use your end to sew closed little jag next 2 clusters) around, join. (40 ch 1 spaces made)
when you weave in your ends. Rnd 21 – Ch 1, work 2sc in each ch 1 space around,
Rnd 2 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with slst to join. (40 sc clusters made)
first sc of rnd. (80) With Color A
With Color B Rnd 22 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (80)
Rnd 3 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (80) Rnd 23 – Repeat Rnd 22
Fasten off and weave in all ends.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - GALILEE COWL

PATTERN INDEX
62

BILLOWS COWL
MATERIALS Ch 131
G (4 mm) Hook Rnd 1 – sc in 2nd ch from hk, *dc in next 10, *sc in
DK Weight Yarn next 3, dc in next 10, repeat from * up to last 2, sc in
Yarn Needle last 2, join with slst to first sc of rnd. (130)
Scissors Rnd 2 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first 2, dc in next 10, *sc
in next 3, dc in next 10, repeat from * up to last, sc in
GAUGE last, join. (130)
6 rows and 9 dc = 2” square Rnd 3 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first, dc in next 10, *sc
in next 3, dc in next 10, repeat from * up to last, sc in
YARN NOTES last, join. (130)
I used 4 skeins of Debbie Bliss Rialto DK. Rnd 4 through Rnd 43 – (Repeat Rnd 2 then Rnd
3) 20 times.
Each skein of Rialto is:
Fasten off and weave in ends.
1.76 oz. (50 g)/ 115 yds. (100 m)

Color: Cyclamen

Yardage: 515 yds.

PATTERN NOTES
You will not count your beg ch as a st.
Finished cowl measures 11” tall and 15” wide.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - BILLOWS COWL

PATTERN INDEX
64

JENALEA HANDWARMERS
MATERIALS Rnd 4 – in flo, sc in first 16, fpdc in next 8, sc in last 6.
H (5 mm) Hook Note: Just to be very clear, for Rnd 4, you will be
Worsted Weight Yarn working in the flo for the entire rnd except for the
Stitch Marker post sts. This is true for the following rnds as well.
Yarn Needle Rnd 5 – in flo, sc in first 17, fpdc in same, fpdc in next
Scissors 3, skip next, fpdc in next 3, sc in same, sc in last 6.
(31)
GAUGE Rnd 6 – in flo, sc in first 18, fpdc in same, fpdc in next
9 sc and 8 rows = 2” square 3, skip next, fpdc in next 2, sc in same, sc in last 7.
(32)
YARN NOTES Rnd 7 – in flo, sc in first 19, fpdc in same, fpdc in next
I used 1 skein Deborah Norville Alpaca Dance. 3, skip next, fpdc in next, sc in same, sc in last 8. (33)
Rnd 8 – in flo, sc in first 19, dc in next, fpdc in same,
Each skein of Alpaca Dance is:
fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc in last 9. (33)
3.5 oz. (100 g)/ 371 yds. (339 m)
Rnd 9 – in flo, sc in first 18, skip next, fpdc in next, dc
Note: Alpaca Dance is classified as a #4 worsted
in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc in
weight yarn but I believe it crochets more like a DK.
last 8. (32)
Color: Silver Fog Rnd 10 – in flo, sc in first 17, skip next, fpdc in next 2,
dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc
Yardage: 160 yds.
in last 7. (31)
Rnd 11 – in flo, sc in first 16, skip next, fpdc in next 3,
PATTERN NOTES
dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc
Pattern is worked in the round. There will be no
in last 6. (30)
turning or joining. Finished Handwarmers measure
Rnd 12 – in flo, sc in first 16, fpdc in next 8, sc in last
3 ½” wide and 9” long.
6. (30)
Rnd 13 – in flo, sc in first 16, fpdc in next 8, sc in next
RIGHT
5, 3sc in last. (32)
Ch 31
Rnd 14 – in flo, sc in first 17, fpdc in same, fpdc in
Row 1 – Working in back hump of your foundation
next 3, skip next, fpdc in next 3, sc in same, sc last 8.
ch, hdc in 2nd ch from hk and in each ch across. (30)
(33)
Note: I like to place my stitch marker on the first st
Rnd 15 – in flo, sc in first 18, fpdc in same, fpdc in
of every rnd as I work.
next 3, skip next, fpdc in next 2, sc in same, sc in next
Rnd 2 – in tlo, hdc in the first hdc of Row 1 (forming
7, 3sc in next, sc in last. (36)
a Rnd), hdc in each st around.
(37)
Rnd 3 – in tlo, sc in first 16, hdc in next 8, sc in last 6.

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65 MAMACHEE WEBSITE PATTERN INDEX
66
Rnd 16 – in flo, sc in first 19, fpdc in same, fpdc in Rnd 30 – in flo, sc in first 16, fpdc in next 8, sc in last Rnd 12 – in flo, sc in first 6, fpdc in next 8, sc in last Rnd 26 – in flo, sc in first 9, dc in next, fpdc in same,
next 3, skip next, fpdc in next, sc in same, sc in last 12. 6. (30) 16. (30) fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc in last 19. (33)
Rnd 17 – in flo, sc in first 19, dc in next, fpdc in same, Rnd 31 – in flo, hdc in first 16, fphdc in next 8, hdc in Rnd 13 – in flo, 3sc in first, sc in next 5, fpdc in next Rnd 27 – in flo, sc in first 8, skip next, fpdc in next, dc
fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc in next 10, 3sc in next, sc last 6. (30) 8, sc in last 16. (32) in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc in
in last 2. (39) Rnd 32 – in tlo, hdc in each st around. (30) Rnd 14 – in flo, sc in first 9, fpdc in same, fpdc in last 18. (32)
Rnd 18 – in flo, sc in first 18, skip next, fpdc in next, Rnd 33 – in tlo, sc in first 28, slst in last 2. (30) next 3, skip next, fpdc in next 3, sc in same, sc in last Rnd 28 – in flo, sc in first 7, skip next, fpdc in next 2,
dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc Fasten off and weave in all ends. Work thumb. 16. (33) dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc
in next 14. (38) Rnd 15 – in flo, sc in first, 3sc in next, sc in next 8, in last 17. (31)
Rnd 19 – in flo, sc in first 17, skip next, fpdc in next 2, LEFT fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, fpdc in next 2, Rnd 29 – in flo, sc in first 6, skip next, fpdc in next 3,
dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc Ch 31 sc in same, sc in last 17. (36) dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc
in next 9, 3sc in next, sc in last 3. (39) Row 1 – Working in back hump of your foundation Rnd 16 – in flo, sc in first 13, fpdc in same, fpdc in in last 16. (30)
Rnd 20 – in flo, sc in first 16, skip next, fpdc in next 3, ch, hdc in 2nd ch from hk and in each ch across. (30) next 3, skip next, fpdc in next, sc in same, sc in last 18. Rnd 30 – in flo, sc in first 6, fpdc in next 8, sc in last
dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc Note: I like to place my stitch marker on the first st (37) 16. (30)
in last 14. (38) of every rnd as I work. Rnd 17 – in flo, sc in first 2, 3sc in next, sc in next 10, Rnd 31 – in flo, hdc in first 6, fphdc in next 8, hdc in
Rnd 21 – in flo, sc in first 16, fpdc in next 8, sc in next Rnd 2 – in tlo, hdc in the first hdc of Row 1 (forming dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc last 16. (30)
9, 3sc in next, sc in last 4. (40) a Rnd), hdc in each st around. in last 19. (39) Rnd 32 – in tlo, hdc in each st around. (30)
Rnd 22 – in flo, sc in first 16, fpdc in next 8, sc in next Rnd 3 – in tlo, sc in first 6, hdc in next 8, sc in last 16. Rnd 18 – in flo, sc in first 14, skip next, fpdc in next, Rnd 33 – in tlo, sc in first 28, slst in last 2. (30)
16. (40) Rnd 4 – in flo, sc in first 6, fpdc in next 8, sc in last 16. dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc Fasten off and weave in all ends. Work thumb.
Rnd 23 – in flo, sc in first 17, fpdc in same, fpdc in Rnd 5 – in flo, sc in first 7, fpdc in same, fpdc in next in last 18. (38)
next 3, skip next, fpdc in next 3, sc in same, sc in next 3, skip next, fpdc in next 3, sc in same, sc in last 16. Rnd 19 – in flo, sc in first 3, 3sc in next, sc in next THUMB
10, 2sc in next, sc in last 5. (42) (31) 9, skip next, fpdc in next 2, dc in next, fpdc in same, Insert hk into one of the 11 skipped thumb-hole
Rnd 24 – in flo, sc in first 18, fpdc in same, fpdc in Rnd 6 – in flo, sc in first 8, fpdc in same, fpdc in next fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc in last 17. (39) stitches and pull up a lp,
next 3, skip next, fpdc in next 2, sc in same, sc in next 3, skip next, fpdc in next 2, sc in same, sc in last 17. Rnd 20 – in flo, sc in first 14, skip next, fpdc in next 3, Rnd 1 – Ch 1, hdc in each st around. (11)
18. (43) (32) dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc Rnd 2 – in tlo, sc in each st around. (11)
Rnd 25 – in flo, sc in first 19, fpdc in same, fpdc in Rnd 7 – in flo, sc in first 9, fpdc in same, fpdc in next in last 16. (38) Fasten off. Use ends to sew closed any hole in the
next 3, skip next, fpdc in next, sc in same, sc in next 8, 3, skip next, fpdc in next, sc in same, sc in last 18. (33) Rnd 21 – in flo, sc in first 4, 3sc in next, sc in next 9, thumb crease. Weave in all ends.
skip last 11. (33) Rnd 8 – in flo, sc in first 9, dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 8, sc in last 16. (40)
Rnd 26 – in flo, sc in first 19, dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc in last 19. (33) Rnd 22 – in flo, sc in first 16, fpdc in next 8, sc in next
fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc in last 9. (33) Rnd 9 – in flo, sc in first 8, skip next, fpdc in next, dc 16. (40)
Rnd 27 – in flo, sc in first 18, skip next, fpdc in next, in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc in Rnd 23 – in flo, sc in first 5, 2sc in next, sc in next 11,
dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc last 18. (32) fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, fpdc in next 3,
in last 8. (32) Rnd 10 – in flo, sc in first 7, skip next, fpdc in next 2, sc in same, sc in last 16. (42)
Rnd 28 – in flo, sc in first 17, skip next, fpdc in next 2, dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc Rnd 24 – in flo, sc in first 19, fpdc in same, fpdc in
dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc in last 17. (31) next 3, skip next, fpdc in next 2, sc in same, sc in last
in last 7. (31) Rnd 11 – in flo, sc in first 6, skip next, fpdc in next 3, 17. (43)
Rnd 29 – in flo, sc in first 16, skip next, fpdc in next 3, dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc Rnd 25 – in flo, skip first 11, sc in next 9, fpdc in
dc in next, fpdc in same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, sc in last 16. (30) same, fpdc in next 3, skip next, fpdc in next, sc in
in last 6. (30) same, sc in last 18. (33)

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - JENALEA HANDWARMERS CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - JENALEA HANDWARMERS
PATTERN INDEX
68

HEATHER LYNN MITTS

MATERIALS Rnd 4 – Ch 2, dc in first 2, ch 3, sc in next ch space,
H (5 mm) Hook ch 3, sc in next ch space, ch 3, skip next 2 dc, dc in
Worsted Weight Yarn last 18, join.
Yarn Needle Rnd 5 – Ch 2, dc in first 2, work 2dc in ch space,
Scissors ch 3, sc in next ch space, ch 3, work 2dc in next ch
space, dc in last 18, join.
GAUGE Rnd 6 – Ch 2, dc in first 4, work 2dc in ch space, ch
12 dc and 7 rows = 3” square 3, work 2dc in next ch space, dc in last 20, join.
Rnd 7 – Ch 2, dc in first 6, work 2dc in ch space, dc
YARN NOTES in last 22, join.
I used 1 skein of Lion Brand Landscapes. Rnd 8 – Ch 2, dc in each st around, join. (30)
Rnd 9 through Rnd 12 – Repeat Rnd 8
Each skein of Landscapes is:
Rnd 13 – Ch 2, dc in first 19, 3dc in next, dc in last 10,
3.5 oz. (100 g.) / 147 yds. (134 m.)
join. (32)
I used the color: Steel Blue Rnd 14 – Ch 2, dc in first 19, 2dc in next, dc in next,
2dc in next, dc in last 10, join. (34)
Yardage: 140 yds.
Rnd 15 – Ch 2, dc in first 19, 2dc in next, dc in next
3, 2dc in next, dc in last 10, join. (36)
PATTERN NOTES
Rnd 16 – Ch 2, dc in first 19, 2dc in next, dc in next
You will not count your beg ch as a st.
5, 2dc in next, dc in last 10, join. (38)
Finished handwarmers measure 4” wide and 10 ¼”
Rnd 17 – Ch 2, dc in each st around, join. (38)
long.
Rnd 18 – Ch 2, dc in first 16, hdc in next, sc in next,
skip next 11, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in last 7, join.
Ch 32,
(27)
Row 1 – Working in back hump for this row, dc in
Continue on with Rnd 19 on pg. 69
3rd ch from hk, dc in each st across, join with slst to
first dc of row forming a Rnd. (30)
LEFT
Note: You can use your end to sew closed little jag
Rnd 2 – Ch 2, dc in first 22, ch 3, skip 2, dc in last 6,
when you weave in your ends.
join.
Rnd 3 – Ch 2, dc in first 20, ch 3, sc in ch space, ch 3,
RIGHT
skip next 2 dc, dc in last 4, join.
Rnd 2 – Ch 2, dc in first 6, ch 3, skip 2, dc in last 22,
Rnd 4 – Ch 2, dc in first 18, ch 3, sc in next ch space,
join.
ch 3, sc in next ch space, ch 3, skip next 2 dc, dc in
Rnd 3 – Ch 2, dc in first 4, ch 3, sc in ch space, ch 3,
last 2, join.
skip next 2 dc, dc in last 20, join.

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69 MAMACHEE WEBSITE PATTERN INDEX
70
Rnd 5 – Ch 2, dc in first 18, work 2dc in ch space,
ch 3, sc in next ch space, ch 3, work 2dc in next ch
space, dc in last 2, join.
Rnd 6 – Ch 2, dc in first 20, work 2dc in ch space, ch
3, work 2dc in next ch space, dc in last 4, join.
Rnd 7 – Ch 2, dc in first 22, work 2dc in ch space, dc
in last 6, join.
Rnd 8 – Ch 2, dc in each st around, join. (30)
Rnd 9 through Rnd 12 – Repeat Rnd 8
Rnd 13 – Ch 2, dc in first 9, 3dc in next, dc in last 20,
join. (32)
Rnd 14 – Ch 2, dc in first 9, 2dc in next, dc in next,
2dc in next, dc in last 20, join. (34)
Rnd 15 – Ch 2, dc in first 9, 2dc in next, dc in next 3,
2dc in next, dc in last 20, join. (36)
Rnd 16 – Ch 2, dc in first 9, 2dc in next, dc in next 5,
2dc in next, dc in last 20, join. (38)
Rnd 17 – Ch 2, dc in each st around, join. (38)
Rnd 18 – Ch 2, dc in first 6, hdc in next, sc in next,
skip next 11, sc in next, hdc in next, dc
in last 17, join. (27)
Continue on with Rnd 19…

Rnd 19 – Ch 2, dc in each st around, join. (27)

Rnd 20 through Rnd 21 – Repeat Rnd 19.
Rnd 22 – Ch 1, in blo, sc in each st around, join. (27)
Rnd 23 – Repeat Rnd 22.
Fasten off and weave in ends. Work thumb.

THUMB
Insert hk into one of the 11 skipped thumb-hole
stitches and pull up a lp,
Rnd 1 – Ch 1, in blo, sc in each st around, join. (11)
Rnd 2 – Repeat Rnd 1.
Fasten off. Use yarn ends to sew close little hole in
thumb crease. Weave in ends.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - HEATHER LYNN MITTS CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - HEATHER LYNN MITTS
PATTERN INDEX
72

REVERIE HANDWARMERS
MATERIALS RIGHT
J (9 mm) Hook Ch 29,
Worsted Weight Yarn Row 1 – sc in 2nd ch from hk and in each st across,
Yarn Needle join with a slst to first sc of row to form a round. (28)
Scissors Note: You can use your end to sew closed little jag
when you weave in your ends.
GAUGE Rnd 2 – Ch 2 (count as beginning ch and first ch-1
6 ½ sc and 7 rows = 2” square space), skip first sc, sc in next, *Ch 1, skip next, sc in
next ch-1 space, repeat from * around, join. (14 scs
YARN NOTES and 14 ch-1 spaces)
I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in 9 colors, you’ll Rnd 3 – Ch 1, sc in first ch-1 space, Ch 1, skip next,
need 1 skein each. *sc in next ch-1 space, Ch 1, skip next, repeat from *
around, join.
Each skein of Vanna’s Choice is:
Rnd 4 – Ch 2, skip first sc, sc in first ch-1 space, *Ch 1,
3.5 oz. (100 g)/ 170 yds. (156 m)
skip next, sc in next ch-1 space, repeat from * around,
MC – Taupe join. (14 scs and 14 ch-1 spaces)
CC #1 – Sapphire Rnd 5 through Rnd 6 – Repeat Rnd 3 then Rnd 4
CC #2 – Aqua Rnd 7 – Repeat Rnd 3
CC #3 – Kelly Green Rnd 8 – Ch 2, skip first sc, sc in first ch-1 space, *Ch
CC #4 – Dusty Green 1, skip next, sc in next ch-1 space, repeat from * up to
CC #5 – Honey last 2, Ch 1, skip next, work 3sc in last ch-1 space, join.
CC #6 – Mustard Rnd 9 – Ch 1, sc in first ch-1 space, *Ch 1, skip next,
CC #7 – Raspberry sc in next ch-1 space, repeat from * up to last 3, Ch 1,
CC #8 – Dusty Rose skip next sc, sc in next sc, Ch 1, skip last, join. (15 scs
and 15 ch-1 spaces)
Yardage: 120 yds.
Rnd 10 – Repeat Rnd 8
Note: You’ll need about 100 yds. of MC and around
Rnd 11 – Repeat Rnd 9 (16 scs and 16 ch-spaces)
2 yds. for each CC color. If you’d like to make these
Rnd 12 – Repeat Rnd 8
in one color, one skein of Vanna’s Choice is enough
Rnd 13 – Repeat Rnd 9 (17 scs and 17 ch-spaces)
to complete a pair.
Rnd 14 – Repeat Rnd 8
Rnd 15 – Repeat Rnd 9 (18 scs and 18 ch-spaces)
PATTERN NOTES
Rnd 16 – Repeat Rnd 8
You will not count your beg ch as a st.
Rnd 17 – Repeat Rnd 9 (19 scs and 19 ch-spaces)
Finished mitts measure 8” long and 5” wide.

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73 MAMACHEE WEBSITE PATTERN INDEX
74
Rnd 18 – Ch 2, skip first, sc in first ch-1 space, *Ch 1, Rnd 9 – Ch 2, skip first sc, sc in next sc, *Ch 1, skip
skip next, sc in next ch-1 space, repeat from * around, next, sc in next ch-1 space, repeat from * around,
join. (19 scs and 19 ch-1 spaces) join. (15 scs and 15 ch-1 spaces)
Rnd 19 – Ch 1, sc in first ch-1 space, Ch 1, skip next, Rnd 10 – Repeat Rnd 8
*sc in next ch-1 space, Ch 1, skip next, repeat from * Rnd 11 – Repeat Rnd 9 (16 scs and 15 ch-1 spaces)
around, join. (19 scs and 19 ch-1 spaces) Rnd 12 – Repeat Rnd 8
Rnd 20 through Rnd 21 – Repeat Rnd 18 then Rnd Rnd 13 – Repeat Rnd 9 (17 scs and 17 ch-1 spaces)
19 Rnd 14 – Repeat Rnd 8
Rnd 22 – Ch 2, skip first, sc in first ch-1 space, *Ch 1, Rnd 15 – Repeat Rnd 9 (18 scs and 18 ch-1 spaces)
skip next, sc in next ch-1 space, repeat Rnd 16 – Repeat Rnd 8
from * up to last 10 sts, skip last 10 sts (and spaces), Rnd 17 – Repeat Rnd 9 (19 scs and 19 ch-1 spaces)
join. (14 scs, 14 ch-1 spaces and thumb hole formed) Rnd 18 – Ch 1, sc in first ch-1 space, Ch 1, skip next,
Rnd 23 through Rnd 32 – (Repeat Rnd 3 then Rnd *sc in next ch-1 space, Ch 1, skip next, repeat from *
4) 5 times around, join. (19 scs and 19 ch-1 spaces)
Fasten off and weave in all ends. Work thumb. Rnd 19 – Ch 2, skip first sc, sc in first ch-1 space,
*Ch 1, skip next, sc in next ch-1 space, repeat from *
LEFT around, join. (19 scs and 19 ch-1 spaces)
Ch 29, Rnd 20 through Rnd 21 – Repeat Rnd 18 then
Row 1 – sc in 2nd ch from hk and in each st across, Rnd 19
join with a slst to first sc of row to form a round. (28) Rnd 22 – Ch 1, skip first 10 sts (and spaces), sc in 6th
Note: You can use your end to sew closed little jag ch-1 space, Ch 1, skip next, *sc in next ch-1 space,
when you weave in your ends. Ch 1, skip next, repeat from * around, join. (14 scs, 14
Rnd 2 – Ch 1, sc in first, Ch 1, skip next, *sc in next, ch-1 spaces and thumb hole formed)
Ch 1, skip next, repeat from * around, join. (14 scs and Rnd 23 through Rnd 32 – (Repeat Rnd 3 then Rnd
14 ch-1 spaces) 4) 5 times
Rnd 3 – Ch 2 (count as beginning ch and first ch-1 Fasten off and weave in ends. Work thumb.
space), skip first sc, sc in first ch-1 space, *Ch 1, skip
next, sc in next ch-1 space, repeat from * around, THUMB
join. (14 scs and 14 ch-1 spaces) Insert hk into one of the 10 skipped thumb-hole
Rnd 4 – Ch 1, sc in first ch-1 space, Ch 1, skip next, stitches (and spaces) and pull up a lp,
*sc in next ch-1 space, Ch 1, skip next, repeat from * Rnd 1 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (10)
around, join. Rnd 2 – Repeat Rnd 1
Rnd 5 through Rnd 6 – Repeat Rnd 3 then Rnd 4 Fasten off. Use yarn ends to sew close little hole in
Rnd 7 – Repeat Rnd 3 thumb crease. Weave in ends.
Rnd 8 – Ch 1, work 3sc in first ch-1 space, Ch 1, skip
next, *sc in next ch-1 space, Ch 1, skip next, repeat
from * around, join.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - REVERIE HANDWARMERS CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - REVERIE HANDWARMERS
PATTERN INDEX
76

WILY HANDWARMERS
MATERIALS Rnd 6 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 24, work 2sc in last 2, join.
K (6.5 mm) Hook (28)
Worsted Weight Yarn Rnd 7 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 24, 2sc in next, sc in next 2,
Yarn Needle 2sc in last, join. (30)
Scissors Rnd 8 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 24, 2sc in next, sc in next 4,
2sc in last, join. (32)
GAUGE Rnd 9 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 24, 2sc in next, sc in next 6,
10 dc and 5 rows = 3” square 2sc in last, join. (34)
Rnd 10 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 24, sc in next 9, 2sc in
YARN NOTES last, join. (35)
I used 1 skein of Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice. Rnd 11 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 24, sc in last 11, join. (35)
Rnd 12 through Rnd 14 – Repeat Rnd 11
Each skein of Vanna’s Choice is:
Rnd 15 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 24, skip next 11, join. (24)
3.5 oz. (100 g)/ 170 yds. (156 m)
Continue on with Rnd 16…
I used the color: Taupe
LEFT
Yardage: 140 yds.
Rnd 5 – Ch 1, work 2sc in first, fpdc in same, fpdc in
last 23, join. (26)
PATTERN NOTES
Rnd 6 – Ch 1, work 2sc in first 2, fpdc in last 24, join.
You will not count your beg ch as a st.
(28)
Finished handwarmers measure 7 ½” long and 5”
Rnd 7 – Ch 1, work 2sc in first, sc in next 2, 2sc in
wide.
next, fpdc in last 24, join. (30)
Rnd 8 – Ch 1, work 2sc in first, sc in next 4, 2sc in
Ch 26,
next, fpdc in last 24, join. (32)
Row 1 – Working in back hump for this row, dc in
Rnd 9 – Ch 1, work 2sc in first, sc in next 6, 2sc in
3rd ch from hk and in each st across, join with a slst
next, fpdc in last 24, join. (34)
to first dc of row to form a rnd. (24)
Rnd 10 – Ch 1, work 2sc in first, sc in next 9, fpdc in
Note: You can use your tail to sew closed little jag
last 24, join. (35)
created when forming your rnd.
Rnd 11 – Ch 1, sc in first 11, fpdc in last 24, join. (35)
Rnd 2 – Ch 1, fpdc in each st around, join. (24)
Rnd 12 through Rnd 14 – Repeat Rnd 11
Rnd 3 through Rnd 4 – Repeat Rnd 2
Rnd 15 – Ch 1, skip first 11, fpdc in last 24, join. (24)

RIGHT
Rnd 16 through Rnd 18 – Repeat Rnd 2
Rnd 5 – Ch 1, fpdc in each st around, work 2sc in
Rnd 19 – Ch 1, fphdc in each st around, join. (24)
same st, join. (26)

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77 MAMACHEE WEBSITE PATTERN INDEX
78
Rnd 20 – Ch 1, in third loops only, sc in each st THUMB
around, join. (24) Insert hk into one of the 11 skipped thumb-hole
Rnd 21 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (24) stitches and pull up a lp,
Rnd 22 through Rnd 23 – Repeat Rnd 21 Rnd 1 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (11)
Fasten off and weave in all ends. Work thumb. Rnd 2 – Repeat Rnd 1
Fasten off. Use ends to sew closed the hole in the
thumb crease. Weave in all ends.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE

PATTERN INDEX
80

TAMARA HANDWARMERS
MATERIALS RIGHT
C (2.75 mm) Hook Ch 49
Fingering (sock) Weight Yarn Row 1 – sc in 2nd ch from hk and in each ch across,
Yarn needle join with a slst to first sc of round forming a lp. (48)
Scissors Note: The little jab left where we’ve joined Row 1
Stitch Markers (optional) can be sewn up with your end.
Rnd 2 – Ch 1, in blo, sc in each st across, join. (48)
GAUGE Rnd 3 through Rnd 4 – Repeat Rnd 2
14 dc and 7 rows = 2” square Rnd 5 – Ch 2, dc in each st around, join. (48)
Rnd 6 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in each st around, join.
YARN NOTES (48)
I used 2 skeins of Deborah Norville Serenity Sock. Rnd 7 through Rnd 8 – Repeat Rnd 6
Rnd 9 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 7, work dcdeepfp
Each skein of Serenity Sock is:
in next, *dc in next 7, dcdeepfp in next, repeat from *
1.76 oz. (50 g)/ 230 yds. (210 m)
around, join. (48)
Color: Charcoal Note: Your dcdeepfp of Rnd 9 should reach down to
Rnd 5.
Yardage: 330 yds.
Rnd 10 through Rnd 12 – Repeat Rnd 6
Rnd 13 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in next 3, work dcdeepfp
PATTERN NOTES
in next, *dc in next 7, work dcdeepfp in next, repeat
You will not count your beg ch as a st. It can be very
from * up to last 3, dc in last 4, join. (48)
helpful to use a stitch marker to mark the first st of
Note: Your dcdeepfp of Rnd 13 should reach down
your rnds as you work.
to Rnd 9.
Finished mitts measure 9 ½” long and 3 ¾” wide.
Rnd 14 through Rnd 16 – Repeat Rnd 6
Rnd 17 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 7, work dcdeepfp
SPECIAL STITCH
in next, *dc in next 7, dcdeepfp in next, repeat from *
Dcdeepfp (double crochet deep front post): yo, in-
around, join. (48)
sert hk into indicated st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and
Rnd 18 through Rnd 21 – Repeat Rnd 10 through
pull through 2, insert hk around the same dc 4 rows
13
down (Example: if you’re working the dcdeepfp of
Rnd 22 through Rnd 25 – Repeat Rnd 14 through
rnd 8 in st #8 then you will insert hk around the 8th
17
dc of Rnd 4), yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through
Rnd 26 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 12, 3hdc in next,
all remaining lps on hk.
dc in last 35, join. (50)

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81 MAMACHEE WEBSITE PATTERN INDEX
82
Rnd 27 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 35, 2hdc in next, Rnd 47 – Ch 1, working in blo, sc in each st around, Rnd 37 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 3, dcdeepfp in
hdc in next, 2hdc in next, dc in last 12, join. (52) join. (48) next, dc in next 15, dcdeepfp in next, *dc in next 7,
Rnd 28 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 12, 2hdc in next, Rnd 48 through Rnd 49 – Repeat Rnd 47 dcdeepfp in next, repeat from * 2 times, dc in last 4,
hdc in next 3, 2hdc in next, dc in last 35, join. (54) Fasten off and weave in ends. Work thumb. join. (48)
Rnd 29 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 3, dcdeepfp in Repeat Rnd 38 through 49 of Right Mitt.
next, *dc in next 7, dcdeepfp in next, repeat from * LEFT Fasten off and weave in ends. Work thumb.
2 times, dc in next 7, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 5, Ch 49
2hdc in next, dc in next 7, dcdeepfp in next, dc in last Rnd 1 through Rnd 25 – Repeat Rnd 1 through THUMB
4, join. (56) Rnd 25 of Right Mitt Insert hk (front to back) into one st (near the thumb
Rnd 30 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 12, 2hdc in next, Rnd 26 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 36, 3hdc in next, crease) from the 19 skipped sts of Rnd 36, yo and
Rnd 9 - I've completed my first 7 dcs and the first step
hdc in next 7, 2hdc in next, dc in last 35, join. (58) dc in last 11, join. (50) pull up a lp… of my dcdeepfp: yo, insert hk into indicated st, yo and
Rnd 31 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 35, 2hdc in next, Rnd 27 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 11, 2hdc in next, Rnd 1 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with slst to pull up a lp
hdc in next 9, 2hdc in next, dc in last 12, join. (60) hdc in next, 2hdc in next, dc in last 36, join. (52) first sc of rnd. (19)
Rnd 32 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 12, 2hdc in next, Rnd 28 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 36, 2hdc in next, Rnd 2 – Ch 1, working in blo, sc in each st around,
hdc in next 11, 2hdc in next, dc in last 35, join. (62) hdc in next 3, 2hdc in next, dc in last 11, join. (54) join. (19)
Rnd 33 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 7, dcdeepfp in Rnd 29 – Ch 2, dc in first 3, dcdeepfp in next, dc in Rnd 3 through Rnd 4 – Repeat Rnd 2
next, *dc in next 7, dcdeepfp in next, repeat from * next 7, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 5, 2hdc in next, *dc Fasten off. Use yarn ends to sew close little hole in
2 times, dc in next 3, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 13, in next 7, dcdeepfp, repeat from * up to last 4, dc in thumb crease. Weave in ends.
2hdc in next, dc in next 3, dcdeepfp in next, dc in last 4, join. (56)
next 7, dcdeepfp in last, join. (64) Rnd 30 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 36, 2hdc in next,
Rnd 34 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 12, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 7, 2hdc in next, dc in last 11, join. (58)
hdc in next 15, 2hdc in next, dc in last 35, join. (66) Rnd 31 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 11, 2hdc in next,
here you can see that i've inserted my hk around the
Rnd 35 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 35, hdc in next 19, hdc in next 9, 2hdc in next, dc in last 36, join. (60)
same dc 4 rows down.
dc in last 12, join. (66) Rnd 32 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 36, 2hdc in next,
Rnd 36 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 10, hdc in next, hdc in next 11, 2hdc in next, dc in last 11, join. (62)
2sc in next, skip 19, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in last Rnd 33 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 7, dcdeepfp in
33, join. (48) next, dc in next 3, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 13, 2hdc
Rnd 37 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 3, dcdeepfp in in next, dc in next 3, dcdeepfp in next, *dc in next 7,
next, *dc in next 7, dcdeepfp in next, repeat from * dcdeepfp in next, repeat from * 3 times, join. (64)
2 times, dc in next 15, dcdeepfp in next, dc in last 4, Rnd 34 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 36, 2hdc in next,
join. (48) hdc in next 15, 2hdc in next, dc in last 11, join. (66)
Rnd 38 through Rnd 41 – Repeat Rnd 14 through Rnd 35 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 11, hdc in next 19,
Rnd 17 dc in last 36, join. (66)
Rnd 42 through Rnd 45 – Repeat Rnd 10 through Rnd 36 – Ch 2 and turn, dc in first 34, hdc in next,
I've completed my first dcdeepfp.
Rnd 13 2sc in next, skip 19, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in last 9,
Rnd 46 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (48) join. (48)

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - TAMARA HANDWARMERS CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - TAMARA HANDWARMERS
PATTERN INDEX
84

TIFFANY PAGE MITTS

MATERIALS LEFT
G (4 mm) Hook Ch 41
DK Weight Yarn Row 1 – sc in 2nd ch from hk, sc in each ch across,
Yarn Needle join with slst to first sc of row forming a rnd. (40)
Scissors Note: The little jab left where we’ve joined Row 1
can be sewn up when you weave in your ends.
GAUGE Rnd 2 – Ch 1, fpdc in each st around, join. (40)
10 dc and 5 rows = 2” square Rnd 3 – Repeat Rnd 2
Rnd 4 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 4, work cable pinch, *fpdc
YARN NOTES in next 4, work cable pinch, repeat from * around,
I used 2 skeins of Bernat Cotton-ish. join. (30)
Rnd 5 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 4, 2fpdc in next 2, *fpdc
Each skein of Cotton-ish is:
in next 4, 2pfdc in next 2, repeat from * around, join.
2.4 oz. (70 g)/ 282 yds. (258 m)
(40)
Color: Lemon Twill Rnd 6 through Rnd 8 – Repeat Rnd 2
Rnd 9 – Ch 1, work cable pinch, fpdc in next 4, *work
Yardage: 360 yds.
cable pinch, fpdc in next 4, repeat from * around,
join. (30)
PATTERN NOTES
Rnd 10 – Ch 1, work 2fpdc in first 2, fpdc in next
You will not count your beg ch as a st. Finished
4, *2fpdc in next 2, fpdc in next 4, repeat from *
handwarmers measure 10 ½” tall and 4 ½” at their
around, join. (40)
widest.
Rnd 11 through Rnd 13 – Repeat Rnd 2
Rnd 14 through Rnd 21 – Repeat Rnd 4 through
SPECIAL STITCH
Rnd 11
Cable Pinch – The cable pinch is worked over 4
Rnd 22 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 9, 2fpdc around next 2,
stitches. Take a look at your next 4 sts. We will call
fpdc in last 29, join. (42)
them A, B, C, and D (from right to left). Skip the first
Rnd 23 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 10, 2fpdc around next 2,
3 stitches (A, B, and C), work fpdc in next st (D), now
fpdc in last 30, join. (44)
go back and work a fpdc around the first skipped st
Rnd 24 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 4, work cable pinch, fpdc
(A). Cable pinch complete.
in next 3, 2fpdc in next 2, fpdc in next 3, work cable
pinch, *fpdc in next 4, work cable pinch, repeat from
* around, join. (36)

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85 MAMACHEE WEBSITE PATTERN INDEX
86
Rnd 25 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 4, 2fpdc around next Rnd 5 – Ch 1, work 2fpdc in first 2, fpdc in next Rnd 31 through Rnd 33 – Repeat Rnd 28 THUMB
2, *fpdc in next 4, 2fpdc in next 2, repeat from * 4, *2fpdc in next 2, fpdc in next 4, repeat from * Rnd 34 – Ch 1, work cable pinch, (fpdc in next 4, Insert hk into one of the 12 skipped thumb-hole
around, join. (48) around, join. (40) work cable pinch) 3 times, fpdc in next 2, skip 12, stitches and pull up a lp,
Rnd 26 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 13, 2fpdc around next 2, Rnd 6 through Rnd 8 – Repeat Rnd 2 fpdc in next 2, work cable pinch, fpdc in last 4, join. Rnd 1 – Ch 1, fpdc in each st around, join. (12)
fpdc in last 33, join. (50) Rnd 9 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 4, work cable pinch, *fpdc (30) Rnd 2 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (12)
Rnd 27 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 14, 2fpdc around next 2, in next 4, work cable pinch, repeat from * around, Rnd 35 through Rnd 41 – Repeat Rnd 5 through Fasten off. Use ends to sew closed any hole in the
fpdc in last 34, join. (52) join. (30) Rnd 11 thumb crease. Weave in all ends.
Rnd 28 – Ch 1, fpdc in each st around, join. (52) Rnd 10 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 4, 2fpdc in next 2, *fpdc Rnd 42 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (40)
Rnd 29 – Ch 1, work cable pinch, fpdc in next 4, in next 4, 2pfdc in next 2, repeat from * around, join. Fasten off and weave in ends. Work thumb.
work cable pinch, fpdc in next 8, *work (40)
cable pinch, fpdc in next 4, repeat from * around, Rnd 11 through Rnd 13 – Repeat Rnd 2
join. (40) Rnd 14 through Rnd 21 – Repeat Rnd 4 through
Rnd 30 – Ch 1, work 2fpdc in first 2, fpdc in next 4, Rnd 11
2fpdc in next 2, fpdc in next 8, *2fpdc in next 2, fpdc Rnd 22 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 29, 2fpdc around next 2,
in next 4, repeat from * around, join. (52) fpdc in last 9, join. (42)
Rnd 31 through Rnd 33 – Repeat Rnd 28 Rnd 23 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 30, 2fpdc around next 2,
Rnd 34 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 4, work cable pinch, fpdc fpdc in last 10, join. (44)
in next 2, skip next 12, fpdc in next 2, work cable Rnd 24 – Ch 1, work cable pinch, (fpdc in next 4,
pinch, *fpdc in next 4, work cable pinch, repeat from work cable pinch) 3 times, fpdc in next 3, 2fpdc in
* around, join. (30) next 2, fpdc in next 3, work cable pinch, fpdc in last
Rnd 35 through Rnd 41 – Repeat Rnd 5 through 4, join. (36)
Rnd 11 Rnd 25 – Ch 1, 2fpdc in next 2, (fpdc in next 4, 2fpdc
Rnd 42 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (40) in next 2) 3 times, fpdc in next 4, 2fpdc in next 2,
Fasten off and weave in ends. Work thumb. fpdc in next 4, 2fpdc in next 2, fpdc in last 4, join.
(48)
RIGHT Rnd 26 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 33, 2fpdc around next 2,
Ch 41 fpdc in last 13, join. (50)
Row 1 – sc in 2nd ch from hk, sc in each ch around, Rnd 27 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 34, 2fpdc around next 2,
join with slst to first sc of row forming a rnd. (40) fpdc in last 14, join. (52)
Note: The little jab left where we’ve joined Row 1 Rnd 28 – Ch 1, fpdc in each st around, join. (52)
can be sewn up when you weave in your ends. Rnd 29 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 4, work cable pinch, (fpdc
Rnd 2 – Ch 1, fpdc in each st around, join. (40) in next 4, work cable pinch) 3 times, fpdc in next 8,
Rnd 3 – Repeat Rnd 2 work cable twist, fpdc in next 4, work cable twist, join.
Rnd 4 – Ch 1, work cable pinch, fpdc in next 4, *work (40)
cable pinch, fpdc in next 4, repeat from * around, Rnd 30 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 4, 2fpdc in next 2, (fpdc
join. (30) in next 4, 2fpdc in next 2) 3 times, fpdc in next 8,
2fpdc in next 2, fpdc in next 4, 2fpdc in last 2, join.
(52)

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - TIFFANY PAGE MITTS CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - TIFFANY PAGE MITTS
PATTERN INDEX
88
JENNIFER LEE
LEG WARMERS
MATERIALS Ch 56
I (5.5 mm) Hook Row 1 – slst in 2nd ch from hk, slst in next 9,
Worsted Weight Yarn hdc in next 35, slst in last 10. (55)
Yarn Needle Row 2 – Ch 1 and turn, (in blo, slst in first 10),
Scissors (in lower horizontal bar, sc in next 35), (in blo, slst
in last 10). (55)
GAUGE Note: See the nice row of skipped front and back
7 hdc and 5 rows = 2” square lps, for this pattern, these rows are called Cable
Rows.
YARN NOTES Row 3 – Ch 1 and turn, (in blo, slst in next 10),
I used 2 skeins of Red Heart Soft Yarn. sc in next 35, (in blo, slst in last 10). (55)
Note: Your 35 scs of Row 3 should be worked as
Each skein of Red Heart Soft is:
normal, under both the front and back lps.
5 oz. (141 g)/ 256 yds. (234 m)
Row 4 – Repeat Row 3
Color: Wine Row 5 – Ch 1 and turn, (in blo, slst in next 10),
hdc in next 2, CCRdc in next, *hdc in next 4, CCRdc in
Yardage needed: 320 yds.
next, repeat from * 5 times, hdc in next 2, (in blo, slst
in last 10). (55)
PATTERN NOTES
Row 6 – Ch 1 and turn, (in blo, slst in next 10),
You will not count your beg ch as a st. Finished leg
(in lower horizontal bar, sc in next, 2sc in next, skip
warmers measure 14 ½” long and 6” at their widest.
next, *sc in next 3, 2sc in next, skip next, repeat from
* 5 times, sc in next 2), (in blo, slst in last 10). (55)
SPECIAL STITCHES
Row 7 – Ch 1 and turn, (in blo, slst in next 10),
Lower Horizontal Bar – Find your front and back lps, the
hdc in next 35, (in blo, slst in last 10). (55)
lower horizontal Bar is the lp running below and parallel
Row 8 through Row 43 – (Repeat Row 2 through
to the front lp.
Row 7) 6 times
Connect cable row (CCR) – work your stitch into the Row 44 through Row 48 – Repeat Row 2 through
corresponding st of the lower Cable Row. For example: If Row 6
you are working a CCR in the 5th st of your current row, Fasten off, leave a long enough tail to sew Row 1 to
you will work it into the 5th st of the lower cable row. Row 48. Weave in all ends.

How to work CCR with a dc (CCRdc): Yo, insert hk un-

der the skipped front and back lps of the corresponding
Cable Row below (4 rows down), yo and pull up a lp, yo
and pull through two, yo and pull through last two.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - JENNIFER LEE LEG WARMERS

PATTERN INDEX
90

KIM ROSE BOOT CUFFS

MATERIALS With MC, Ch 35
F (3.75 mm) Hook Row 1 – sc in 2nd ch from hk, sc in next 28, Ch 1,
DK Weight Yarn skip next, sc in last 4. (33 sts and 1 ch space)
Yarn Needle Row 2 – Ch 1 and turn, in blo, sc in first 4, sc in next
Scissors ch space, sc in last 29. (34)
Row 3 – Ch 1 and turn, in blo, sc in first 29, Ch 1, skip
GAUGE next, sc in last 4. (33 sts and 1 ch space)
13 rows and 10 ½ sc = 2” square Row 4 through Row 59 – (Repeat Row 2 then Row
3) 28 times.
YARN NOTES Fasten off and weave in ends. Leave a lone enough
I used Cascade Cherub DK Yarn in two colors, tail to sew Row 1 to Row 59.
you’ll need 1 skein each.
Once you have sewn Row 1 to Row 59, forming your
Each skein of Cherub DK is: boot cuff, you are ready to work the “pretty edge”.
1.75 oz. (50 g)/ 180 yds. (165 m) Take a look at the ridges. You will be working a group
of sts in each ridge (see pictures below).
Colors: MC – Taupe, CC – Black

Yardage: 155 yds. PRETTY EDGE

Notes: 150 yds. MC and 5 yds. CC With CC, insert hk into one of your ridges and pull up
a lp,
PATTERN NOTES Rnd 1 – Ch 1, work (sc, picot, sc) in each ridge
Do not count your beg ch as a st. Finished boot around, join with slst to first sc of rnd.
cuffs measure 6” tall and 4” wide. Fasten off and weave in ends.

SPECIAL STITCH
Picot – Ch 2, slst in 2nd ch from hk. Cable Row
below (4 rows down), yo and pull up a lp, yo and
pull through two, yo and pull through last two.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - KIM ROSE BOOT CUFFS

PATTERN INDEX
92

LITHE BOOT CUFFS

MATERIALS Rnd 3 – Ch 2, skip first sc, sc in first ch-1 space, *Ch 1,
I (5.5 mm) Hook skip next, sc in next ch-1 space, repeat from * around,
Worsted Weight Yarn join. (14 scs and 14 ch-1 spaces)
Yarn Needle Rnd 4 through Rnd 15 – (Repeat Rnd 2 then Rnd
Scissors 3) 6 times.
With CC (do not fasten off colors, just drop and pick
GAUGE them back up as you work)
7 ½ sc and 7 rows = 2” square Rnd 16 – Repeat Rnd 2
With MC
YARN NOTES Rnd 17 – Repeat Rnd 3
I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in two colors, you’ll With CC
need 1 skein each. Rnd 18 – Repeat Rnd 2
With MC
Each skein of Vanna’s Choice is:
Rnd 19 – Repeat Rnd 3
3.5 oz. (100 g)/ 170 yds. (156 m)
With CC
Colors: MC – Taupe, CC – Dusty Rose Rnd 20 – Repeat Rnd 2
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Yardage: 90 yds.
Note: 85 yds. MC and 5 yds. CC.

PATTERN NOTES
You will not count your beg ch as a st. Finished boot
cuffs measure 5 ¼” tall and 5” wide.

With MC, Ch 40,

Row 1 – sc in 3rd ch from hk (this completes the first
ch-1 space), *Ch 1, skip next, sc in next, repeat from
* across, join with a slst to first ch-1 space of row to
form a round. (19 scs and 19 ch-1 spaces)
Note: You can use your end to sew closed little jag
when you weave in your ends.
Rnd 2 – Ch 1, sc in first ch-1 space, Ch 1, skip next,
*sc in next ch-1 space, Ch 1, skip next, repeat from *
around, join. (19 scs and 19 ch-1 spaces)

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - LITHE BOOT CUFFS

PATTERN INDEX
94

MEGAN BOOT CUFFS

MATERIALS Ch 54,
G (4 mm) Hook Row 1 – Working in back hump for this row, dc in
DK Weight Yarn 3rd ch from hk, dc in each st across, join with a slst to
Yarn Needle the first dc of row forming a rnd. (52)
Scissors Note: you can use your end to sew closed little jag
when you weave in your ends.
GAUGE Rnd 2 – Ch 1, fpdc in first 2, bpdc in next 2, *fpdc
11 dc and 6 rows = 2” square in next 2, bpdc in next 2, repeat from * around, join.
(52)
YARN NOTES Rnd 3 – Ch 1, bpdc in first 2, fpdc in next 2, *bpdc in
I used 1 skein of Caron Simply Soft Light. next 2, fpdc in next 2, repeat from * around, join. (52)
Rnd 4 through Rnd 13 – (Repeat Rnd 2 then Rnd
Each skein of Simple Soft Light is:
3) 5 times
3 oz. (85 g.) / 330 yds. (301 m.)
Rnd 14 – Repeat Rnd 2
I used the color: Bubble Gum Rnd 15 – Ch 1, fpdc in first, bpdc in next, *fpdc in
next, bpdc in next, repeat from * around, join. (52)
Yardage: 200 yds.
Rnd 16 through Rnd 20 – Repeat Rnd 15
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
PATTERN NOTES
You will not count your beg ch as a st.
Finished cuffs measure 5” wide and 4” tall.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - MEGAN BOOT CUFFS

PATTERN INDEX
96

REBECCA BOOT CUFFS

MATERIALS With MC and D hk, Ch 62
D (3.25 mm) Hook Row 1 – working in back hump of your foundation
E (3.5 mm) Hook ch, dc in 3rd ch from hk, dc in each ch across, join
Fingering (sock) Weight Yarn with slst to first dc of row to form a rnd. (60)
Yarn Needle Notes: It’s important for this pattern to work in the
back hump of your foundation ch, leaving the front
Scissors
and back lps of your foundation ch unworked so
that you can use them later.
GAUGE (WITH D HOOK)
You can use your end to sew closed little jag when
12 dc and 7 rows = 2” square
you weave in your ends.
Rnd 2 – Ch 2, dc in each st around, join. (60)
YARN NOTES Rnd 3 through Rnd 9 – Repeat Rnd 2
I used Deborah Norville Serenity Sock Weight in 3
With CC #1
colors, you’ll need 1 skein each. Rnd 10 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (60)
Each skein of Serenity Sock is: Change to E hk
1.76 oz. (50 g)/ 230 yds. (210 m) Rnd 11 – Ch 1, sc in first 2, ch 3, skip 3, *sc in next 3,
ch 3, skip 3, repeat from * up to last, sc in last, join.
Colors: MC – Black, CC #1 – Burgundy and (30 scs and 30 ch spaces)
CC #2 – Woodsy Green Rnd 12 – Ch 1, sc in first, work 5dc in first ch-3 space,
*skip next sc, sc in next, work 5dc in next ch-3 space,
Yardage: 130 yds.
repeat from * around, join.
Note: 60 yds. of MC and 30 yds. for each CC.
Rnd 13 – Ch 1, slst in first 2, *sc in next 3, ch 3, skip
3, repeat from * around, join to first sc of rnd.
PATTERN NOTES
Rnd 14 – Ch 1, slst in first, sc in next, work 5dc in first
You will not count your beg ch as a st. Finished boot
ch-3 space, *skip next sc, sc in next, work 5dc in next
cuffs measure 5” tall and 5” wide.
ch-3 space, repeat from * around, join.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

You will now turn your work upside down and work
on the skipped front and back lps of your foundation
ch.
With D hk and CC #2, insert hk (from front to back)
in one of your foundation chains and pull up a lp.
Repeat Rnd 10 through Rnd 14
Fasten off and weave in all ends.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - REBECCA BOOT CUFFS

PATTERN INDEX
98

LOLA SLIPPERS
MATERIALS Rnd 6 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first 20, *Ch 5, skip 2, sc in
G (4 mm) Hook next 3, repeat from * 1 time, Ch 5, skip 2, sc in last 2, join.

Worsted Weight Yarn Rnd 7 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first, skip next sc, *work 5sc
into ch space, skip next sc, sc in next, skip next sc, repeat
Yarn Needle
from * 1 time, work 5sc into ch space, skip next sc,
Scissors
sc in last 19, join.
Rnd 8 – Ch 3 and turn, tc in first 19, Ch 2, skip next sc,
GAUGE sc in next 3, *Ch 5, skip 3 scs, sc in next 3, repeat from *
10 hdc and 6 rows = 2” square 1 time, Ch 2, skip next sc, tc in last sc, join.
Rnd 9 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first, work 2sc into ch space,
YARN NOTES skip next sc, sc in next, skip next sc, *work 5sc into ch
I used 1 skein of Lion Brand Wool Ease. space, skip next sc, sc in next, skip next sc, repeat from *
1 time, work 2sc into next ch space, sc in last 19, join.
Each skein of Wool Ease is: Rnd 10 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first 20, *Ch 5, skip 3 scs,
3 oz. (85 g)/ 197 yds. (180 m) sc in next 3, repeat from * 1 time, Ch 5, skip 3 scs,
sc in last 2, join.
Color: Cranberry
Rnd 11 through Rnd 18 – (Repeat Rnd 7 through
Yardage: (Size 5/6 – 110 yds.), (Size 7/8 – 120 yds.), Rnd 10) 2 times
(Size 9/10 – 140 yds.) Rnd 19 – Repeat Rnd 7
Row 20 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first, hdc in next 17,
sc in last. (19)
PATTERN NOTES
Row 21 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, hdc in next 17,
You will not count your beg ch as a st. Pattern starts
2sc in last. (21)
at the toe and works it's way to the heel.
Row 22 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 19,
2hdc in last. (23)
SIZE 5/6 Row 23 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 21,
Ch 8 2hdc in last. (25)
Rnd 1 – hdc into the 3rd ch from hk, hdc in next 4, work Row 24 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 23,
4hdc into last ch, working now on the opposite side of 2hdc in last. (27)
your foundation ch, hdc in next 4, 3hdc in last, join with a Row 25 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 25,
slst to the first st of the round. (16) 2hdc in last. (29)
Rnd 2 – Ch 2, work 2hdc in first, hdc in next 4, Row 26 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 27,
2hdc in next 4, hdc in next 4, 2hdc in last 3, join. (24) 2hdc in last. (31)
Rnd 3 – Ch 2, work 2hdc in first 2, hdc in next 8, Row 27 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 29,
2hdc in next 5, hdc in next 6, 2hdc in last 3, join. (34) 2hdc in last. (33)
Rnd 4 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (34) Row 28 – Ch 1 and turn, slst in first 12, sc in next, hdc in
Rnd 5 – Repeat Rnd 4
next 7, sc in next (leave remaining 12 sts unworked). (21)

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - LOLA SLIPPERS

99 MAMACHEE WEBSITE PATTERN INDEX
100
Row 29 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 2, Rnd 10 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first 20, *Ch 5, skip 3 scs, SIZE 9/10 Row 29 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 25,
dc3tog, hdc in next 2, 2hdc in last. sc in next 3, repeat from * 1 time, Ch 5, skip 3 scs, sc in Ch 8 2hdc in last. (29)
Row 30 through Row 31 – (Repeat Row 29) 2 times last 2, join. Rnd 1 – hdc into the 3rd ch from hk, hdc in next 4, work Row 30 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 27,
Row 32 – Ch 2 and turn, hdc in first 3, dc3tog, Rnd 11 through Rnd 18 – (Repeat Rnd 7 through 4hdc in last, working now on the opposite side of your 2hdc in last. (31)
hdc in last 3. (7) Rnd 10) 2 times foundation ch, hdc in next 4, work 3hdc in last, join with a Row 31 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 29,
Row 33 – Ch 2 and turn, hdc in each st across. (7) Rnd 19 – Repeat Rnd 7 slst to the first hdc of the round. (16) 2hdc in last. (33)
Row 34 – Ch 2 and turn, hdc in next 2, dc3tog, Row 20 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first, hdc in next 17, sc in Rnd 2 – Ch 2, work 2hdc in first, hdc in next 4, Row 32 – Ch 1 and turn, slst in first 12, sc in next, hdc in
hdc in last 2. (5) last. (19) 2hdc in next 4, hdc in next 4, 2hdc in last 3, join. (24) next 7, sc in next (leave remaining 12 sts unworked).
Row 35 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across, pull up Row 21 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, hdc in next 17, 2sc Rnd 3 – Ch 2, work 2hdc into first 2, hdc in next 8, Row 33 – Ch 2 and turn, work 2hdc in first, hdc in next
side (left flap) and slst join. in last. (21) 2hdc in next 5, hdc in next 6, 2hdc in last 3, join. (34) 2, dc3tog, hdc in next 2, 2hdc in last.
Rnd 36 – Ch 1, (do not turn) sc evenly around, skipping Row 22 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 19, Rnd 4 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (34) Row 34 through Row 35 – (Repeat Row 33) 2 times
one st in each corner. When you reach the end, line up 2hdc in last. (23) Rnd 5 – Repeat Rnd 4 Row 36 – Ch 2 and turn, hdc in first 3, dc3tog, hdc in
with heel flap and continue with last 5 scs across heel Row 23 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 21, Rnd 6 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first 20, *Ch 5, skip 2, sc in last 3. (7)
flap, join. 2hdc in last. (25) next 3, repeat from * 1 time, Ch 5, skip 2, sc in last 2, join. Row 37 – Ch 2 and turn, hdc in each st across. (7)
Rnd 37 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. Row 24 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 23, Rnd 7 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first, skip next sc, *work 5sc Row 38 – Ch 2 and turn, hdc in next 2, dc3tog, hdc in
Fasten off, sew heel holes closed and weave in ends. 2hdc in last. (27) in ch space, skip next sc, sc in next, skip next sc, repeat last 2. (5)
Row 25 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 25, from * 1 time, work 5sc in ch space, skip next sc, sc in last Row 39 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across, pull up
SIZE 7/8 2hdc in last. (29) 19, join. side (left flap) and slst join.
Ch 8 Row 26 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 27, Rnd 8 – Ch 3 and turn, tc in first 19, Ch 2, skip next sc, Rnd 40 – Ch 1, (do not turn) sc evenly around, skipping
Rnd 1 – hdc into the 3rd ch from hk, hdc in next 4, work 2hdc in last. (31) sc in next 3, *Ch 5, skip 3 scs, sc in next 3, repeat from * one st in each corner. When you reach the end, line up
4hdc in last ch, working now on the opposite side of your Row 27 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 29, 1 time, Ch 2, skip next sc, tc in last sc, join. with heel flap and continue with last 5 scs across heel
foundation ch, hdc in next 4, work 3hdc in last, join with a 2hdc in last. (33) Rnd 9 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first, work 2sc in ch space, flap, join.
slst to the first hdc of the round. (16) Row 28 – Ch 2 and turn, hdc in each st across. (33) skip next sc, sc in next, skip next sc, *work 5scs into ch Rnd 41 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join.
Rnd 2 – Ch 2, work 2hdc in first, hdc in next 4, Row 29 – Repeat Row 28 space, skip next sc, sc in next, skip next sc, repeat from * Fasten off, sew heel holes closed and weave in ends.
2hdc in next 4, hdc in next 4, 2hdc in last 3, join. (24) Row 30 – Ch 1 and turn, slst in first 12, sc in next, hdc in 1 time, work 2scs into next ch space, sc in last 19, join.
Rnd 3 – Ch 2, work 2hdc into first 2, hdc in next 8, next 7, sc in next (leave remaining 12 sts unworked). (21) Rnd 10 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first 20, *Ch 5, skip 3 scs,
2hdc in next 5, hdc in next 6, 2hdc in last 3, join. (34) Row 31 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 2, sc in next 3, repeat from * 1 time, Ch 5, skip 3 scs, sc in
Rnd 4 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (34) dc3tog, hdc in next 2, 2hdc in last. last 2, join.
Rnd 5 – Repeat Rnd 4 Row 32 through Row 33 – (Repeat Row 31) 2 times Rnd 11 through Rnd 22 – (Repeat Rnd 7 through
Rnd 6 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first 20, *Ch 5, skip 2, sc in Row 34 – Ch 2 and turn, hdc in first 3, dc3tog, Rnd 10) 3 times
next 3, repeat from * 1 time, Ch 5, skip 2, sc in last 2, join. hdc in last 3. (7) Rnd 23 – Repeat Rnd 7
Rnd 7 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first, skip next sc, work 5sc Row 35 – Ch 2 and turn, hdc in each st across. (7) Row 24 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first, hdc in next 17, sc in
into ch space, skip next sc, sc in next, skip next sc, repeat Row 36 – Ch 2 and turn, hdc in first 2, dc3tog, last. (19)
from * 1 time, work 5scs into ch space, skip next sc, sc in hdc in last 2. (5) Row 25 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, hdc in next 17, 2sc
last 19, join. Row 37 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across, pull up in last. (21)
Rnd 8 – Ch 3 and turn, tc in first 19, Ch 2, skip next sc, sc side (left flap) and slst join. Row 26 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 19,
in next 3, *Ch 5, skip 3 scs, sc in next 3, repeat from * Row 38 – Ch 1, (do not turn) sc evenly around, 2hdc in last. (23)
1 time, Ch 2, skip next sc, tc in last sc, join. skipping one st in each corner. When you reach the end, Row 27 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 21,
Rnd 9 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in first, work 2sc into ch space, line up with heel flap and continue with last 5 scs across 2hdc in last. (25)
skip next sc, sc in next, skip next sc, *work 5sc into ch heel flap, join. Row 28 – Ch 2 and turn, 2hdc in first, hdc in next 23,
space, skip next sc, sc in next, skip next sc, repeat from * Rnd 39 – Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. 2hdc in last. (27)
1 time, work 2scs into next ch space, sc in next 19, join. Fasten off, sew heel holes closed and weave in ends.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - LOLA SLIPPERS CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - LOLA SLIPPERS
PATTERN INDEX
102

MAE'S ORIGAMI SLIPPERS

MATERIALS Rnd 4 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 9, 2sc in
I (5.5 mm) Hook next 2, sc in next 9, 2sc in last, join. (26)
Worsted Weight Yarn Rnd 5 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st around, join. (26)
Yarn Needle Rnd 6 through Rnd 11 – Repeat Rnd 5
Scissors (Left Foot) Row 12 – Ch 1 and turn, working in the
flo, sc in next 13, working in both lps, sc in next 13,
GAUGE skip over join and continue working into the skipped
8 sc and 9 rows = 2” square back lps of Rnd 11, sc in the next 13. (39) Continue on
to Row 13
YARN NOTES (Right Foot) Row 12 – Ch 1 and turn, working in
I used Red Heart With Love in two colors, you’ll need the blo, sc in next 13, working in both lps, sc in next
1 skein each. 13, skip over join and continue working into the
skipped front lps of Rnd 11, sc in next 13. (39)
Each skein of With Love is:
Continue on to Row 13
7 oz. (198 g)/ 370 yds. (338 m)
Row 13 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 35,
Colors: MC – Iced Aqua, CC – Hot Pink sc2tog. (37)
Row 14 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (37)
Yardage: (Size 5/6 – 110 yds.)
Row 15 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 33,
(Size 7/8 – 135 yds.), (Size 9/10 – 150 yds.)
sc2tog. (35)
Row 16 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (35)
PATTERN NOTES
Row 17 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 31,
You will not count your beg ch as a st.
sc2tog. (33)
Slippers are worked from toe up to the heel.
Row 18 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (33)
Row 19 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 29,
SIZE 5/6
sc2tog. (31)
Finished slipper measures 7 ½” long and 3 ½” wide
Row 20 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (31)
Ch 6
Row 21 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 27,
Rnd 1 – work 2sc in 2nd ch from hk, sc in next 3,
sc2tog. (29)
4sc in last, working now on the opposite side of your
Row 22 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (29)
foundation ch, sc in next 3, 2sc in last, join with slst to
Row 23 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 25,
first sc of rnd. (14)
sc2tog. (27)
Rnd 2 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 5,
Row 24 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (27)
2sc in next 2, sc in next 5, 2sc in last, join. (18)
Row 25 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 23,
Rnd 3 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 7,
sc2tog. (25)
2sc in next 2, sc in next 7, 2sc in last, join. (22)

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103 MAMACHEE WEBSITE PATTERN INDEX
104
Row 26 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (25) Row 15 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc next 41, sc2tog. SIZE 9/10 Row 26 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (37)
Row 27 through Row 32 – Repeat Row 26 (43) Finished slipper measures 9 ½” long and 4” wide Row 27 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 33,
Row 33 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in next 8, (sc2tog) Row 16 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (43) Ch 6 sc2tog. (35)
2 times, sc in next, (sc2tog) 2 times, sc in last 8. (21) Row 17 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 39, Rnd 1 – work 2sc in 2nd ch from hk, sc in next 3, Row28 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (35)
Row 34 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in next 6, (sc2tog) sc2tog. (41) 4sc in last, working now on the opposite side of your Row 29 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 31,
2 times, sc in next, (sc2tog) 2 times, sc in last 6. (17) Row 18 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (41) foundation ch, sc in next 3, 2sc in last, join with slst to sc2tog. (33)
Row 35 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in next 3, (sc2tog) Row 19 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 37, first sc of rnd. (14) Row 30 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (33)
2 times, sc in next 3, (sc2tog) 2 times, sc in last 3. (13) sc2tog. (39) Rnd 2 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 5, Row 31 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 29,
See Finishing. Row 20 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (39) 2sc in next 2, sc in next 5, 2sc in last, join. (18) sc2tog. (31)
Row 21 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 35, Rnd 3 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 7, Row 32 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (31)
SIZE 7/8 sc2tog. (37) 2sc in next 2, sc in next 7, 2sc in last, join. (22) Row 33 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 27,
Finished slipper measures 8 ½” long and 4” wide Row 22 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (37) Rnd 4 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 9, sc2tog. (29)
Ch 6 Row 23 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 33, 2sc in next 2, sc in next 9, 2sc in last, join. (26) Row 34 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each stacross.(29)
Rnd 1 – work 2sc in 2nd ch from hk, sc in next 3, sc2tog. (35) Rnd 5 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 11, Row 35 through Row 40 – Repeat Row 34
4sc in last, working now on the opposite side of your Row 24 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (35) 2sc in next 2, sc in next 11, 2sc in last, join. (30) Row 41 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in next 10, (sc2tog)
foundation ch, sc in next 3, 2sc in last, join with slst to Row 25 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 31, Rnd 6 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st around, join. (30) 2 times, sc in next, (sc2tog) 2 times, sc in last 10. (25)
first sc of rnd. (14) sc2tog. (33) Rnd 7 through Rnd 17 – Repeat Rnd 6 Row 42 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in next 8, (sc2tog)
Rnd 2 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 5, Row 26 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (33) (Left Foot) Row 18 – Ch 1 and turn, working in the 2 times, sc in next, (sc2tog) 2 times, sc in last 8. (21)
2sc in next 2, sc in next 5, 2sc in last, join. (18) Row 27 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 29, flo, sc in next 15, working in both lps, sc in next 15, Row 43 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in next 5, (sc2tog)
Rnd 3 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 7, sc2tog. (31) skip over join and continue working into the skipped 2 times, sc in next 3, (sc2tog) 2 times, sc in last 5. (17)
2sc in next 2, sc in next 7, 2sc in last, join. (22) Row 28 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (31) back lps of Rnd 17, sc in the next 15. (45) Continue on See Finishing.
Rnd 4 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 9, Row 29 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 27, to Rnd 19
2sc in next 2, sc in next 9, 2sc in last, join. (26) sc2tog. (29) (Right Foot) Row 18 – Ch 1 and turn, working in FINISHING
Rnd 5 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 11, Row 30 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (29) the blo, sc in next 15, working in both lps, sc in next Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail to sew the
2sc in next 2, sc in next 11, 2sc in last, join. (30) Row 31 through Row 36 – Repeat Row 30 15, skip over join and continue working into the back of your slipper closed. Once the back is sewed
Rnd 6 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st around, join. (30) Row 37 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in next 10, (sc2tog) skipped front lps of Rnd 17, sc in next 15. (45) closed, crochet an even row of sc around the edge
Rnd 7 through Rnd 13 – Repeat Rnd 6 2 times, sc in next, (sc2tog) 2 times, sc in last 10. (25) Continue on to Row 19 of your wrap slipper with MC. You can stop here or
(Left Foot) Row 14 – Ch 1 and turn, working in the Row 38 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in next 8, (sc2tog) Row 19 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc next 41, sc2tog. crochet another row of sc with CC around the edge.
flo, sc in next 15, working in both lps, sc in next 15, 2 times, sc in next, (sc2tog) 2 times, sc in last 8. (21) (43) Weave in all ends.
skip over join and continue working into the skipped Row 39 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in next 5, (sc2tog) Row 20 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (43)
back lps of Rnd 13, sc in the next 15. (45) Continue on 2 times, sc in next 3, (sc2tog) 2 times, sc in last 5. (17) Row 21 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 39,
to Row 15 See Finishing. sc2tog. (41)
(Right Foot) Row 14 – Ch 1 and turn, working in Row 22 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (41)
the blo, sc in next 15, working in both lps, sc in next Row 23 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 37,
15, skip over join and continue working into the sc2tog. (39)
skipped front lps of Rnd 13, sc in next 15. (45) Row 24 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (39)
Continue on to Row 15 Row 25 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 35,
sc2tog. (37)

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - MAE'S ORIGAMI SLIPPERS CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - MAE'S ORIGAMI SLIPPERS
PATTERN INDEX
106

OMA SLIPPERS
MATERIALS Rnd 2 – Ch 1, work 2sc in first 3, sc in next 17,
K (6.5 mm) Hook 2sc in next 3, sc in last 17, join. (46)
Worsted Weight Yarn Rnd 3 – Ch 2, work 2hdc in first 2, hdc in next 2,
Yarn Needle 2hdc in next 2, hdc in next 17, 2hdc in next 2,
Scissors hdc in next 3, 2hdc in next 2, hdc in last 16, join. (54)
Rnd 4 – Change to two strands of MC, Ch 1,
GAUGE (TWO STRANDS HELD TOGETHER) working in blo for this round, sc in first, hdc in next 9,
6 sc and 6 rows = 2” square sc in next 17, hdc in next 12, sc in last 15, join. (54)
Rnd 5 – Ch 1, hdc in first 12, sc2tog, sc in next 10,
YARN NOTES hdc in next, hdc2tog, (dc2tog) 6 times, hdc2tog,
I used Red Heart With Love in two colors, you’ll hdc in next, sc in next 10, sc2tog, join. (44)
need 1 skein each. Rnd 6 – Ch 1, sc in first, hdc in next 10, sc in next
12, hdc in next, hdc2tog, dc2tog, dc in next, dc2tog,
Each skein of With Love is:
hdc2tog, hdc in next, sc in last 10, join. (40)
7 oz. (198 g.)/ 370 yds. (338 m.)
Rnd 7 – Ch 1, hdc in first 12, sc2tog, sc in next 7,
Colors: CC – Black, MC – Evergreen hdc in next, hdc2tog, dc2tog, dc in next, dc2tog,
hdc2tog, hdc in next, sc in next 6, sc2tog, join. (34)
Yardage: (Size 5/6 – 160 yds.), (Size 7/8 – 180 yds.),
Rnd 8 – Ch 1, slst into each st around, join. (34)
(Size 9/10 – 200 yds.)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.

PATTERN NOTES
SIZE 7/8
You will not count your beg ch as a st.
Finished sole measures 8 ¾” long.
!IMPORTANT!: You crochet these slippers by holding
With two strands of CC, Ch 19
two strands of worsted yarn together.
Rnd 1 – Work 3sc in 2nd ch from hk, sc in next 7,
Pattern starts at the sole.
hdc in next 5, dc in next 4, 7dc in
last, working now on opposite side of base chain,
SIZE 5/6
dc in next 4, hdc in next 5, sc in last 7, join with slst
Finished sole measures 8” long.
to first st of rnd. (42)
With two strands of CC, Ch 18
Rnd 2 – Ch 1, work 2hdc in first 3, hdc in next 17,
Rnd 1 – Work 3sc in 2nd ch from hk, sc in first 7,
2hdc in next 5, hdc in last 17, join. (50)
hdc in next 4, dc in next 4, 7dc in
Rnd 3 – Ch 2, work 2hdc in first 2, hdc in next 2,
last, working now on opposite side of base chain,
2hdc in next 2, hdc in next 19, 2hdc in next 2,
dc in next 4, hdc in next 4, sc in last 7, join with slst
hdc in next 3, 2hdc in next 2, hdc in last 18, join. (58)
to first st of rnd. (40)

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - OMA SLIPPERS

107 MAMACHEE WEBSITE PATTERN INDEX
108
Rnd 4 – Change to two strands of MC, Ch 1, Rnd 6 – Ch 1, sc in first 2, hdc in next 8, sc in next 17,
working in blo for this round, hdc in first, dc in next 9, hdc in next, hdc2tog, (dc2tog) 2 times, hdc2tog,
hdc in next, sc in next 18, hdc in next 12, sc in last 17, hdc in next, sc in last 15, join. (48)
join. (58) Rnd 7 – Ch 1, sc in first, hdc in next 10, sc in next,
Rnd 5 – Ch 1, hdc in first 12, sc2tog, sc in next 12, sc2tog, sc in next 11, hdc in next, hdc2tog, (dc2tog) 2
hdc in next, hdc2tog, (dc2tog) 6 times, hdc2tog, hdc times, hdc2tog, hdc in next, sc in next 11, sc2tog, join.
in next, sc in next 12, sc2tog, join. (48) (42)
Rnd 6 – Ch 1, sc in first, hdc in next 10, sc in next Rnd 8 – Ch 1, sc in first 26, (sc2tog) 2 times,
14, hdc in next, hdc2tog, dc2tog, dc in next, dc2tog, sc in last 12, join. (40)
hdc2tog, hdc in next, sc in last 12, join. (44) Rnd 9 – Ch 1, slst in each st around, join. (40)
Rnd 7 – Ch 1, hdc in first 12, sc2tog, sc in next 9, Fasten off and weave in all ends.
hdc in next, hdc2tog, dc2tog, dc in next, dc2tog,
hdc2tog, hdc in next, sc in next 8, sc2tog, join. (38)
Rnd 8 – Ch 1, slst into each st around, join. (38)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.

SIZE 9/10
Finished sole measures 9 ¼” long.
With two strands of CC, Ch 18
Rnd 1 – Work 3sc in 2nd ch from hk, sc in next 7,
hdc in next 4, dc in next 4, 7dc in last, working now
on the opposite side of your base chain, dc in next
4, hdc in next 4, sc in last 7, join with slst to first st of
rnd. (40)
Rnd 2 – Ch 2, work 2hdc in first 3, hdc in next 16,
2hdc in next 5, hdc in last 16, join. (48)
Rnd 3 – Ch 2, work 2dc in first 2, dc in next 2, 2dc in
next 3, dc in next 16, 2dc in next 3, dc in next 2, 2dc
in next 3, dc in next 16, 2dc in last, join. (60)
Rnd 4 – Change to two strands of MC, Ch 1, working
in blo for this round, sc in first, hdc in next, dc in next
6, hdc in next, sc in next 18, hdc in next 17, sc in last
16, join. (60)
Rnd 5 – Ch 1, sc in first, hdc in next 9, sc in next 17,
hdc in next, hdc2tog, (dc2tog) 6 times, hdc2tog, hdc
in next, sc in last 15, join. (52)

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - OMA SLIPPERS CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - OMA SLIPPERS
PATTERN INDEX
110

PERFECT HOUSE SLIPPERS

MATERIALS Rnd 2 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 5,
I (5.5 mm) Hook 2sc in next 2, sc in next 5, 2sc in last, join. (18)
Worsted Weight Yarn Rnd 3 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first 2, sc in next 5,
Yarn Needle 2sc in next 3, sc in next 7, 2sc in last, join. (24)
Scissors Rnd 4 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st around, join.
Stitch Marker (optional) (24)
Rnd 5 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 11,
GAUGE 2sc in next, sc in last 11, join. (26)
10 sc and 13 rows = 3” square Rnd 6 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st around, join. (26)
Rnd 7 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 13,
YARN NOTES 2sc in next, sc in last 11, join. (28)
I used Red Heart With Love in two colors, you’ll need Rnd 8 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st around, join. (28)
1 skein each. Rnd 9 through Rnd 20 – Repeat Rnd 8
Rnd 21 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st around,
Each skein of With Love is:
do not join and do not turn.
7 oz. (141 g)/ 370 yds. (338 m)
Row 22 – slst into next 5 scs of Rnd 21,
Colors: MC – Hot Pink, CC – Aran leave remaining sts unworked.
Row 23 – Ch 1 and turn, deep sc next 5 (work the
Yardage: (Size 5/6 – 150 yds.)
next 5 sts into the sts of Rnd 21), sc in next 16. (21)
(Size 7/8 – 185 yds.), (Size 9/10 – 220 yds.)
Note: There should be 7 unworked scs of rnd 21.
Row 24 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 17,
PATTERN NOTES
sc2tog. (19)
You will not count your beg ch as a st.
Row 25 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across.
Construction – Slipper is worked from the toe to the
Row 26 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 15,
heel. You crochet the insole separately and glue (or
sc2tog. (17)
sew) it to the slipper.
Row 27 – Repeat Rnd 25
Row 28 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 13,
SIZE 5/6
sc2tog. (15)
With MC, Ch 6
Row 29 – Repeat Rnd 25
Rnd 1 – working in the back lps of your foundation
Row 30 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 11,
ch, work 2sc in 2nd ch from hk, sc in next 3, 4sc in
sc2tog. (13)
last, working now on the opposite side of your
Row 31 – Repeat Rnd 25
foundation ch (in the skipped front lps), sc in next 3,
2sc in last, join with slst to first sc of rnd. (14)

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111 MAMACHEE WEBSITE PATTERN INDEX
112
Row 32 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 9, sc2tog. SIZE 7/8 Row 30 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 15, Row 23 through Row 34 – Repeat Row 22
(11) With MC, Ch 6 sc2tog. (17) Row 35 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 5,
Row 33 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 7, sc2tog. Rnd 1 – working in the back lps of your foundation Row 31 – Repeat Rnd 27 sc2tog. (7)
(9) ch, work 2sc in 2nd ch from hk, sc in next 3, 4sc in Row 32 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 13, Row 36 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 3,
Row 34 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 5, sc2tog. last, working now on the opposite side of your foun- sc2tog. (15) sc2tog. (5)
(7) dation ch (in the skipped front lps), sc in next 3, Row 33 – Repeat Rnd 27 Ch 1 and work even scs around insole.
Row 35 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 3, sc2tog. 2sc in last, join with slst to first sc of rnd. (14) Row 34 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 11, Fasten off and weave in ends.
(5) Rnd 2 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 5, sc2tog. (13) Once you have completed 2 slippers and 2 insoles,
Ch 1 and turn, sc evenly around foot opening, join 2sc in next 2, sc in next 5, 2sc in last, join. (18) Row 35 – Repeat Rnd 27 see finishing instructions on page 114.
with slst to first sc of rnd. Rnd 3 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first 2, sc in next 5, Row 36 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 9,
Fasten off and weave in ends. Make Insole. 2sc in next 3, sc in next 7, 2sc in last, join. (24) sc2tog. (11) SIZE 9/10
Rnd 4 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st around, join. Row 37 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 7, With MC, Ch 6
SIZE 5/6 INSOLE (24) sc2tog. (9) Rnd 1 – working in the back lps of your foundation
Finished insole measures about 9” long and 3.5” Rnd 5 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 11, Row 38 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 5, ch, work 2sc in 2nd ch from hk, sc in next 3, 4sc in
wide. 2sc in next 2, sc in next 9, 2sc in last, join. (28) sc2tog. (7) last, working now on the opposite side of your
With CC, Ch 6 Rnd 6 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st around, join. (28) Row 39 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 3, foundation ch (in the skipped front lps), sc in next 3,
Row 1 – sc in 2nd ch from hk and in each ch across. Rnd 7 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 13, sc2tog. (5) 2sc in last, join with slst to first sc of rnd. (14)
(5) 2sc in next, sc in last 13, join. (30) Ch 1 and turn, sc evenly around foot opening, join Rnd 2 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 5,
Row 2 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in next, sc in next 3, 2sc Rnd 8 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st around, join. (30) with slst to first sc of rnd. 2sc in next 2, sc in next 5, 2sc in last, join. (18)
in last. (7) Rnd 9 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 15, Fasten off and weave in ends. Rnd 3 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first 2, sc in next 5,
Row 3 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in next, sc in next 5, 2sc 2sc in next, sc in last 13, join. (32) 2sc in next 3, sc in next 7, 2sc in last, join. (24)
in last. (9) Rnd 10 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st around, join. SIZE 7/8 INSOLE Rnd 4 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st around, join.
Row 4 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (9) (32) Finished insole measures about 10” long and 4.25” (24)
Row 5 through Row 20 – Repeat Row 4 Rnd 11 through Rnd 22 – Repeat Rnd 10 wide. Rnd 5 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 11,
Row 21 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 5, sc2tog. Rnd 23 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st around, With CC, Ch 6 2sc in next 2, sc in next 9, 2sc in last, join. (28)
(7) do not join and do not turn (yet). Row 1 – sc in 2nd ch from hk and in each ch across. Rnd 6 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st around, join. (28)
Row 22 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (7) Row 24 – slst into next 5 scs of Rnd 23, leave (5) Rnd 7 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 13,
Row 23 through Row 31 – Repeat Row 22 remaining sts unworked. Row 2 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in next, sc in next 3, 2sc in next, sc in last 13, join. (30)
Row 32 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 3, sc2tog. Row 25 – Ch 1 and turn, deep sc next 5 (work the 2sc in last. (7) Rnd 8 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st around, join. (30)
(5) next 5 sts into the sts of Rnd 23), sc in next 18. (23) Row 3 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in next, sc in next 5, Rnd 9 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in first, sc in next 15,
Ch 1 and work even scs around insole. Note: There should be 9 unworked scs of rnd 23. 2sc in last. (9) 2sc in next, sc in last 13, join. (32)
Fasten off and weave in ends. Row 26 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 19, Row 4 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in next, sc in next 7, Rnd 10 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st around, join.
Once you have completed 2 slippers and 2 insoles, sc2tog. (21) 2sc in last. (11) (32)
see finishing instructions on page 114. Row 27 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. Row 5 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (11) Rnd 11 through Rnd 26 – Repeat Rnd 10
Row 28 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 17, Row 6 through Row 20 – Repeat Row 5 Rnd 27 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st around, do not
sc2tog. (19) Row 21 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 7, join and do not turn (yet).
Row 29 – Repeat Rnd 27 sc2tog. (9) Row 28 – slst into next 5 scs of Rnd 27, leave
Row 22 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (9) remaining sts unworked.

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114
Row 29 – Ch 1 and turn, deep sc next 5 (work the SIZE 9/10 INSOLE
next 5 sts into the sts of Rnd 27), sc in next 18. (23) Finished insole measures about 11” long and 4.25”
Note: There should be 9 unworked scs of rnd 27. wide.
Row 30 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 19, With CC, Ch 6
sc2tog. (21) Row 1 –sc in 2nd ch from hk and in each ch across.
Row 31 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (5)
Row 32 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 17, Row 2 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in next, sc in next 3,
sc2tog. (19) 2sc in last. (7)
Row 33 – Repeat Rnd 31 Row 3 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in next, sc in next 5,
Row 34 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 15, 2sc in last. (9)
sc2tog. (17) Row 4 – Ch 1 and turn, 2sc in next, sc in next 7,
Row 35 – Repeat Rnd 31 2sc in last. (11)
Row 36 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 13, Row 5 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (11)
sc2tog. (15) Row 6 through Row 24 – Repeat Row 5 FINISHING
Row 37 – Repeat Rnd 31 Row 25 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 7, You are now ready to glue or sew your insoles to your slippers! To do this, I first turn the slipper inside-out
Row 38 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 11, sc2tog. (9) and flatten it, making sure everything is aligned. Then I place the slipper face down and lay my insole (right
sc2tog. (13) Row 26 – Ch 1 and turn, sc in each st across. (9) side up) on top of the inside-out slipper (you will sew or glue wrong side of insole to wrong side of slipper).
Row 39 – Repeat Rnd 31 Row 27 through Row 38 – Repeat Row 26 I first glue/sew the toe-end of the insole to the toe-end of the slipper. Then I check once more to make sure
Row 40 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 9, Row 39 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 5, everything is aligned and then glue/sew ¾ of the insole to the slipper, leaving the heal-end undone. I turn
sc2tog. (11) sc2tog. (7) my slipper right-side out, check alignment once more and then glue/sew the heel-end of the insole down to
Row 41 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 7, Row 40 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 3, the heal-end of the slipper.
sc2tog. (9) sc2tog. (5)
Row 42 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 5, Ch 1 and work even scs around insole.
sc2tog. (7) Fasten off and weave in ends.
Row 43 – Ch 1 and turn, sc2tog, sc in next 3, Once you have completed 2 slippers and 2 insoles,
sc2tog. (5) see finishing instructions.
Ch 1 and turn, sc evenly around foot opening, join
with slst to first sc of rnd.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - PERFECT HOUSE SLIPPERS CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE - PERFECT HOUSE SLIPPERS
RESOURCES
MARJORIE HEADWRAP SHAYLENE HAT JANE FROST HAT REVERIE HANDWARMERS WILY HANDWARMERS TAMARA HANDWARMERS

VINTAGE DARB HAT LINDSEY LIVELY HAT ALESSANDRA HAT TIFFANY PAGE MITTS JENNIFER LEE LEG WARMERS KIM ROSE BOOT CUFFS

IMPERIAL HAT MARJORIE SCARF TRICIA COWL LITHE BOOT CUFFS MEGAN BOOT CUFFS REBECCA BOOT CUFFS

LYRIC COWL HOBNAIL COWL GALILEE COWL LOLA SLIPPERS MAE'S ORIGAMI SLIPPERS OMA SLIPPERS

BILLOWS COWL JENALEA HANDWARMERS HEATHER LYNN MITTS PERFECT HOUSE SLIPPERS
 120

RESOURCES and FUN PLACES

MAMACHEE WEBSITE AND SHOPS
Website/Blog – www.mamachee.com
Etsy – www.mamachee.etsy.com
Ravelry – www.ravelry.com/designers/mamachee

HELPFUL RESOURCES
Crochet Guild of America – www.crochet.org
The Craft Yarn Council – www.craftyarncouncil.com
Yarn Standards – www.yarnstandards.com
Yarn Substitution – www.yarnsub.com
YouTube – www.youtube.com
If you’re a visual learner, YouTube is an amazing resource for crocheters.

YARN AND SUPPLIES

Red Heart Yarns – www.redheart.com
Lion Brand Yarns – www.lionbrand.com
Jo-Ann - www.joAnns.com
Micheals – www.micheals.com

INDIE YARN DYERS AND SPINNERS (my favorites!)

Bad Sheep Yarns – www.badsheepyarn.com
Expression Fiber Arts – www.expressionfiberarts.com
The Lemonade Shop – www.thelemonadeshop.com
The Sheepish Hooker – www.facebook.com/SheepishHooker
Pancake and Lulu – www.pancakeandlulu.etsy.com

FUN WITH COLOR

Color Wheel Fun – www.color.adobe.com
Color Inspiration – www.stripedbgs.com
Granny Square Color Generator – www.granny-square-colors.com
Search “Color Schemes” on Pinterest!

MY FAVORITE ONLINE CROCHET INSPIRATION

Design Wars – www.designwarschallenge.com
Crochet In Color – www.crochetincolor.blogspot.com
Moogly – www.mooglyblog.com
One Sheepish Girl – www.onesheepishgirl.com
Purl Soho – www.purlsoho.com
Pinterest – www.pinterest.com

CROCHET WITH MAMACHEE

Thank you so much for
crocheting with me!