TOPIC 1: SANITARY APPLIANCES

Unit of learning code: CON/CU/PL/CR/04/5/A

Related Unit of Competency in Occupational Standard: Install Sanitary Appliances
4.1 Introduction to the unit of learning

This unit specifies the competencies required to install sanitary appliances. It involves
preparing simple working drawings, quantifying and costing sanitary appliances, fixing sanitary
appliances and testing and commissioning working of sanitary appliances. It is applied in the
construction industry

4.2 Summary of Learning Outcomes

1. Prepare working drawings
2. Quantify sanitary appliances
3. Fix sanitary appliances
4. Test and commission working of sanitary appliances

4.2.1 Learning Outcome 1: Prepare working drawings

4.2.1.1 Introduction to the learning outcome

This learning outcome specifies the different working drawings that a plumber will encounter when
carrying out sanitary installations. The plumber will be able to interpret and understand how to fit
various components from the information contained in the working drawings and specifications.
Preparing simple working drawings,

4.2.1.2 Performance Standard

1. Drawings are identified and selected based on the job.
2. Scale of the drawing is determined based on the specifications.
 3. Measurements are converted based on scale.
4. Symbols are identified based on best practices.
5. Sanitary appliances are identified based on the drawing
6. Simple working drawings are Prepared based on specifications
7. Isometric working drawings are drawn based on best practices.
8. Manufacturers drawing of sanitary appliances are interpreted as presented.
9. Assembling of sanitary appliances is identified and interpreted as per
manufacturers’ drawing.

4.2.1.3 Information Sheet

Definitions of terms
 Working drawings - A comprehensive set of drawings used in a building
construction project or object construction. They include architectural, structural
and other engineering drawings.
 Symbol is a simplified image of component or things they represent.
 Blueprint A detailed technical drawing that acts as a plan for constructing a building or object,
showing dimensions, materials, and layouts like floor plans and electrical systems.
 A plan a view from above showing the arrangement of a building or object.
 An elevation is a view of a building or object seen from one side.
 Block plan used in identifying the site and locate the outline of the building in
relation to the surrounding.
 Cross section represents a vertical plane cut through the object, in the same way as a
floor plan is a horizontal section viewed from the top
 Detail drawings show a small part of the construction at a larger scale, to show
how the component parts fit together.
  Specification is a precise description of the materials and methods of workmanship
to be employed while carrying out the task.
 Schedules give tables of information on ranges of similar items.
 Bill of Quantities is a measure or price of the amount of materials and labor required
for a given task.
 Ancillary equipment are machines and other technical things which are used with
the main items of equipment to create a complete system.

Types of Drawings

At the design stage, sketch drawings and preliminary drawings will be used to show the designer’s
intentions. Sketch drawings are also often used by site supervisors and craftsmen to show other
operatives how a particular problem might be resolved or how a component can be fabricated on
site. Once the design is accepted, production of the working drawings can be done.

These drawings are used in a range of fields namely;

 Mechanical drawings - shows information about heating, ventilating, air
conditioning and plumbing details in a building.
 A structural drawing - shows a plan or set of plans and details for how
a building or other structure will be built. They are generally prepared
by registered professional engineers, and based on information provided
by architectural drawings.

 Architectural drawings – shows illustrations of what the final product will

look like plus an instructional tool on how to achieve it. Architectural drawings
can be devoted to depicting an overview of the building i.e., an elevation or
they can focus on a particular detail.

 A plumbing drawing - a type of technical drawing showing the system of

piping for fresh water going into the building and waste water going out the
working.

It also includes fuel gas drawings. Mainly plumbing drawing consist of water
supply system drawings, drainage system drawings, irrigation system drawings,
storm water system drawings.
 Scales in Drawings
Scaling is a drawing method used to enlarge or reduce a drawing in size while keeping the proportions of
the drawing the same.

Scaling is used to either:

i. Reduce the drawing in size so that it will fit onto the page.
ii. Enlarge the drawing in size so that all required details are clearly visible.
 Scales are generally expressed as ratios and the most common scales used are 1:1, 1:2, 1:5,
and 1:10 -for reducing
 2:1, 4: 1, 5:1- for enlarging.
To scale a drawing using a calculator:
 Divide - to reduce the drawing in size.
 Multiply - to increase the drawing in size.

Example 1: Scaling down

 A 50mm line is to be drawn at a scale of 1:5 (i.e. 5 times less than its original
size). The measurement 50mm is divided by 5 to give 10mm. A 10mm line is
drawn.
 A 50mm line is to be drawn at a scale of 1:2. The
measurement 50mm is divided by 2 to give 25mm. A 25mm line is drawn.

Example 2: Scaling up
 A 50mm line is to be drawn at a scale of 5:1 (i.e. 5 times more than its original
size). The measurement 50mm is multiplied by 5 to give 250mm. A 250mm
line is drawn.
 A 50mm line is to be drawn at a scale of 2:1. The
measurement 50mm is multiplied by 2 to give 100mm. A 100mm line is drawn.

Reducing the Scale Factor

The method above used to convert a measurement assumes that the scale factor is in the
form of 1: n or 1/n. E.g. If the ratio is 2:3, then it can be reduced by dividing both
numbers by 2, which would be 1/1.5 or 1:1.5.
2÷2=1

3 ÷ 2 = 1.5

scale factor = 1:1.5

Plumbing symbols

Plumbing symbols are used when drawing house plans and isometric plumbing drawings. The
purpose of these symbols is to indicate where the different elements of the plumbing system are
positioned.

Table 14: Plumbing symbols for sanitary appliances

Table 15: plumbing symbols
 Metric Pipework Drawings

Piping isometric drawing is an isometric representation of single pipe line in a plan. It is the
most important deliverable of piping engineering. Piping fabrication work and assembly is
based on isometric drawings.

Piping isometric drawing consists of three sections. Main graphic section consists of isometric
representation of a pipe line route in 3D space, which includes following information:

vi. Line number.

vii. Flow Direction.
viii. Support Tags and location.
ix. Piping Components location.
x. Weld Locations.

Example of a pipework isometric drawing

KEY
NPT- “National Pipe Tapered” threads
NPS- “National Pipe Straight” threads
NS- “Nominal Size”
Section on left or right side of a Plumbing drawing consists of a schedule of Material Section for
the portion of line shown in isometric graphic. It includes following information for all
components:

vii. Component Description.

viii. Component Material Code.
ix. Nominal Size.
x. Quantity.
xi. Whether shop material or field material.
xii. Number of Spools.

Title bar section at the bottom consists of following information:

 Project details such as client name

 engineering office name
 project name
 project number

4.2.1.1 Learning Activities

Produce a freehand sketch of the isometric pipework diagram shown below.

isometric pipe drawing

Materials Required

 Scale rule
 Pencils
 Eraser
 Drawing paper
 Drawing board
 T-square

4.2.1.2 Self-Assessment
1. What does a 1/2 scale mean?

2. Match column A with column B.

Table 16: Plumbing symbols questions

A B
Symbol
1. Tee A. WC
2. Elbow 90º
B.
3. Wye
C.
4. Union D. LAV
5. Elbow 45º
E.
Abbreviation
6. Water Closet F. UR
7. Shower G. SH
8. Lavatory
H.
9. Floor Drain
I.
10. Urinal J. FD
3. Convert the following measurements as indicated.

a. 64 cm inches

b. 59 yards feet

c. 95.5 dm meter

d. 19 inches------------------------------centimeter

e. 47 feet inches

f. 4 m cm

g. 9 yards…………………………. feet

h. 5.5 dm meter

i. 9meters centimeter

j. 7 feet inches
 4.2.1.3 Tools, Equipment, Supplies and Materials

 Scale rule
 Pencils
 Eraser
 Drawing paper
 Drawing board
 T-square

4.2.1.4 References
Mays, L., 2001. Water resources engineering. New York: Wiley.
Cauldwell, R., 2005. Remodel plumbing. Newtown, CT: Taunton Press, pp.24-35.
Blower, G., (2007). Plumbing. Welwyn Garden City: Pearson Education UK.
Rendow Yee., (2002). Architectural drawings: a visual compendium of types and methods.
Thompson., (2007). Architectural design procedures, Second Edition. Architectural Press
 TOPIC 2: QUANTIFY SANITARY APPLIANCES

4.2.2.1. Introduction to the learning outcome

This learning guide helps the trainee to identify the supplies and materials required for
installation of sanitary appliances.
4.2.2.2. Performance Standard

1. Materials and Supplies required for fixing are identified based on requirements of
the job.
2. Schedule of sanitary appliances is prepared based on the drawing.
3. Materials and supplies required are measured and estimated based on working
drawings and specifications
4. Sanitary appliances are costed based on best practice

4.2.2.3. Information Sheet

Definitions of terms

 Discharge Pipe- any pipe which is intended to convey waste from sanitary appliances
and they include a waste pipe, combined waste pipe, branch discharge pipe and
discharge stack.
 Drain - pipe normally laid below ground level intended to convey foul water or surface
water to an outfall.
 Drain vent pipe- any pipe which is intended to permit the movement of air into and out of a
drain or sewer.
 Fitting - is a component or device used to connect sections of pipe or tubing.
 Fixture- A plumbing fixture is a device or appliance connected to the plumbing system to
supply water or wastewater disposal e.g. sinks, toilets, bathtubs, showers, faucets, urinals,
and drinking fountains.
 Fixture discharge pipe - a discharge pipe which is used to convey waste from a single sanitary
fixture or sanitary appliance to a branch discharge pipe, discharge stack or directly to the drain.

 Fixture vent pipe - is a pipe specifically used to provide ventilation for a single plumbing
fixture, such as a sink, bathtub, or toilet.
 Foul water drainage system - is a system of pipes and infrastructure designed to carry
wastewater from domestic or commercial sources to an outfall.
 Gully trap - is a drainage fitting installed outside a building that serves to prevent
unpleasant sewer gases and odors from entering the house.
  Sanitary appliance - refers to a fixture designed to receive water and discharge
wastewater or human waste in a building’s sanitary drainage system.
 Lavatory- refers to a fixture that includes a sink and a drain, specifically designed for
washing hands and personal hygiene. It is commonly found in bathrooms and restrooms
and provides a dedicated space for cleaning oneself.
Sanitary Appliances

Sanitary appliances are accessories that are designed to receive foul or waste water and then
discharge it through a system of sanitary pipework or directly to the drainage system where it
will be disposed off.

They are divided into two classes namely;

a) Soil appliances – Soil appliances include appliances which receive and dispose
human excreta. They include bed pan washer, slop sinks, urinals and water closets.
b) Waste appliances – They include appliances which receive water and dispose
excreta from general washing purposes or food preparation. They include; Wash
hand Basins, bathtubs, bidets, drinking fountains, sinks and showers.

1. Soil appliances

a) WC (Water Closet)

They include the WC (Water closet) and the urinal. The WC is a small room in which
the early soiled water pans were enclosed when they replaced the original earth closets.
A WC pan is a ceramic or metal bowl to take solid and liquid excrement, with an inlet
for flushing and a trapped outlet. The seat is usually a plastic ring secured to the back of
the pan. The usual flushing appliance is a cistern designed to discharge water rapidly
into the pan through a flush pipe for cleaning and disposal of contents.

Types of WC

i. Pedestal WC

The pan is secured to the floor with screws through holes in the pedestal base to timber
plugs in solid floors. The flushing rim is designed to spread the water which discharges
through the flush outlet around the pan to wash down the side of the bowl. Spigot end
connections for the waste pipe are moulded integrally with the pan.
Pedestal WC

ii. Washdown WC

The flush water runs around the rim to wash down the bowl and then overturns the
water seal to discharge the contents.

Washdown WC

iii. Siphonic WC

The flush water washes the sides of the bowl and causes a water trap or traps to
overturn and create a siphonic action which discharges the contents. The purpose of this
arrangement is to affect a comparatively quiet flush and discharge of contents. The
trap is the 50 mm minimum projection of the pan into the water lying in the base of the
pan to seal against any foul smells that might rise from the drains.
 Siphonic WC

Majority of WC have discharge outgo that is near horizontal with a small slope down
and is a standard arrangement used for simplicity in production and consequent
economy.

Discharge outgo

WC have seats in the form of a moulded plastic ring that fits the top of the WC pan.
The back of the seat is bolted to pillars and a rod so that the seat is secured in position
and can be lifted. They include;

 The ring seats and lift up covers – they are moulded from plastic and finished
in a small range of colors.

 The open fronted lift up seat - is used in male toilets to minimize fouling.

The inset wood pads fixed to one WC pan have been used in communal toilets to avoid
damage that occurs to lift-up seats in general use.
WC seats

Flushing WC cisterns

Flushing cisterns are made of enameled or galvanized pressed steel or plastics or

vitreous China. The cistern is used for low level WC suites and is made into two
pieces: the body and a lift-up cover or lid for access to the flush apparatus inside.
Perforations for water supply, overflow pipe, operating lever or push and flush pipe are
provided.
These cisterns discharge water in one operation through a flush pipe or directly to the
pan by a siphonic action.
The cistern is filled through a valve operated by a ball float and arm. An air gap exists
between the highest level of water in the cistern and the outlet of the float valve.
The plastic siphon is operated by a lever which raises a piston to force water over the
siphon bend and the siphonic action causes the water in the cistern to follow through
perforations in the piston.

WC cistern
b) Urinals

There are three types namely;

 Stall.
 Slab.
 Bowl.
i. Stall urinal.

Consists of heavy, individual stoneware stalls with either a salt glazed finish and each
stall is having its own integral channel. The stalls are set in place on a solid floor
against a wall. The junction between individual stalls is covered with salt glazed or
white glazed rolls or facing pieces to serve as a finish to the joint between the stalls and
afford some privacy to the users.

Stall urinal
 ii. Slab urinal.

Are less-heavy constructions, largely taken over from stall urinals for use in public
lavatories. Consist of flat white glazed ceramic slab and white glazed ceramic channels
bedded in cement and sand against the wall with projecting end slabs to each side.

Fig 2.2: Slab urinal

iii. Bowl urinals

Are individual white glazed ceramic bowl urinals fixed to a wall. They are easy to clean
and offer privacy to the user. They are bolted to the wall or support and bedded in
cement and sand and joints finished with silicone sealing compounds.

Urinals are flushed by automatic flushing cisterns fixed above the urinal and
discharging through a flush pipe, spreaders or sparge pipe.

Bowl urinal
2. Waste Water Appliances.

Include wash hand basins, bathtubs, kitchen sinks and bidets.

a) Wash hand basins

Designed for washing the upper part of the body supported by wall brackets or by
pedestal secured to the floor. Usually made of vitreous China.

Wash basin

b) Bathtub.
 The most used is the standard Magna square ended bath. They are made of
porcelain- enameled cast iron or enameled pressed sheet steel or plastic.
They are used for body washing.

Bath

a) Shower

Consists of a shower tray or receiver of glazed ceramic, enameled cast iron or plastic to
collect and discharge water with a fixed or hand-held shower head or rose and a valve.
Showers are either fixed in a wall recess or may be free standing with enameled metal
or plastic sides. The walls around fixed showers are lined with some impermeable
materials such as tiles and an open side fitted with a waterproof curtain.
 c) Kitchen Sink.

Is a stainless-steel appliance designed to fit into the kitchen unit made with a single
bowl and drainer or double bowl and double drainer. They are finished in the natural
colour of stainless steel from which they are pressed.

Sink

d
d) Bidet

These are appliances used for washing excretory organs. It consists of a glazed ceramic
pedestal bowl which is secured to the floor usually backing on to a wall or partition.
May be white glazed or finished in a limited range of pastel colours to match other
bathroom appliances.
Bidet
Estimation of Sanitary Appliances
Before the fixing of appliances is done, the plumber must first identify the type and number
of appliances to be installed. This is clearly visible from the Plumbing working drawings
(House Plans).
The type and Number of appliances are then identified from the drawing and the information
presented in a tabular form.
NO DESCRIPTION QUANTITY
1 Single sink, Double Drain (Stainless Steel) 1
2 Bath-Tub 1
3 Water Closets (Ceramic) 4
4 Shower Heads 2
5 Shower Trays 2
6 Wash Hand Basin 4

The Schedule of materials will then be used to order for the appliances. The cost of purchase
will depend on the specifications of the appliance, quality and the manufacturer.

NO DESCRIPTION QUANTITY @
1 Single sink, Double Drain (Stainless 1
Steel)
2 Bath-Tub 1
3 Water Closets (Ceramic) 4
4 Shower Heads 2
5 Shower Trays 2
6 Wash Hand Basin 4
TOTAL

The sum total cost of installation will be inclusive of cost of purchase of materials, cost of
labor, cost of profits and cost of overheads. These are charged as a percentage of the cost of
appliances.
 4.2.2.4. Learning Activities

Practical activity
Task 1
Identify the correct type and number of appliances shown on the plan.
 4.2.2.5. Self-Assessment

Prepare a schedule of materials that will be used to order for the supplies for the plan given in
the practical activity
4.2.2.6. Tools, Equipment, Supplies and Materials
 Pipe wrench.
 Simple water storage system
 Pipe threading equipment.
 Pipe cutter.
 Hacksaw.
 Steel rule.
 PPE
 Sink auger
 Toilet auger
 Flange plunger
 Cup plunger
 Teflon tape
 Screws.
 Adhesives.
 Pipes.
 Traps.
 Caulking materials.
 Fittings.
 Water

4.2.2.7. References
P. S. Gahlot., 2006, Building repair and maintenance management, first edition.
Antonio Curado et al,. New materials and technologies in building water piping systems. India.
S. M. Patil,. 2004. Building services.
Deolalikar, S. G,.2013, Plumbing design and practice. 21st reprint. New Delhi.
MODEL ANSWERS

Schedule of materials

NO DESCRIPTION QUANTITY @ TOTAL

1 Bath Tub 2
2 Double sink double drain 1
kitchen sink
3 Wash Hand basins 2
4 Water Closets 2
TOTAL

4.2.3 Learning Outcome 3: Fix sanitary appliances

4.2.3.1. Introduction to the learning outcome
This learning outcome specifies on the procedures followed when carrying out installation works for
sanitary appliances and the tools used for the operation. It also outlines the protective gear that
should be worn during such operations.
4.2.3.2. Performance Standard
1. Tools and equipment needed for fixing appliances are identified based on the type of
sanitary appliance.
2. Appliance positioning is determined based on working drawings.
3. Tools and equipment are used based on best practices.
4. Support for sanitary appliances is put in place based on manufacturers’ instructions.
5. Sanitary appliances are mounted based on best practices.
6. Parameter checks are done in accordance to industry standards.
7. Housekeeping is conducted based on best practice.
8. Personal Protective Equipment is used in line with occupational safety and health
regulations.
9. Safety and health practices are observed based on OSHA.
Information Sheet
Before installation of sanitary appliances begins, one is first supposed to identify
the type and number of appliances from the architectural and plumbing working
drawings.

This can be correctly identified if there is prior knowledge on the Plumbing symbols
Sample of Plumbing Symbols.
PROCEDURE FOR INSTALLATION OF
APPLIANCES WC INSTALLATION
AN OLD WC
Disconnect the Supply Line
After turning off the water at the shutoff, flush the toilet to remove most of the water from
the tank and bowl. A little water will be left in the bowl. Use a force-cup plunger to force it
down the drain line. Remove the remaining water from the tank with a sponge and a bucket.
Disconnect the supply line from the base of the tank.
Remove the Old Toilet
To remove the old toilet, pop off the trim caps at the base of the toilet. Next, loosen and remove
the nuts and washers on the closet bolts securing the bowl to the floor. If the nuts are rusted,
you may need to cut them off with a hacksaw.
Install a New Wax Seal
Use a putty knife to pry up and remove the old wax seal
Inspect the flange beneath the seal to make sure it's not cracked. Once you've inspected the
flange, remove the rag from the hole.
Attach the Tank and Bowl
With the closet bolts and seal in place, you can attach the tank and bowl to assemble the new
toilet. Slide the tank bolts through the opening in the bottom of the tank. Line up the shank of
the bolts with the holes in the bowl, and drop the tank into place. Secure the tank to the bowl by
tightening a nut onto each tank bolt. Evenly tighten all the nuts until the tank rests firmly on the
bowl.
Secure the Toilet and Finish Installation
Set the assembled toilet onto the flange assembly, making sure that the closet bolts protruding
from the floor line up with the holes in the base. Lightly press the toilet in place to form a good
seal with the wax ring.
Place a couple of washers and a nut on each bolt. Secure the nuts with a small wrench, but don't
over tighten them. If the bolts extend too far over the top of the washers and nuts, cut off the
excess with a hacksaw.
Pop the trim caps in place to cover the ends of the bolts.
Secure the new seat and lid to the bowl with mounting bolts.
Use slip-joint pliers to reconnect the supply line to the bottom of the tank.

WC INSTALLATION FOR A NEW WC

Installation Procedures & Details for Toilets

Before installing a toilet, examine it for manufacturing defects that can cause leaks or prevent
it from sealing fully to the closet flange. Occasionally the inlet where the tank connects to the
bowl, or the outlet (horn) at the bottom of the bowl that seals to the closet flange, is deformed
enough to cause problems.

Also make sure the base (foot) of the toilet is flat or it will have a tendency to rock and break
the seal, leading to odors and leakage.
Next, make sure the floor framing where the toilet will be mounted is adequate. Ideally the
toilet should sit between two joists set no more than 12 inches on-center, with blocking nailed
on either side of the drain to reinforce the area around the closet flange. This will limit any
movement in the fixture that could break the seal at the wax ring.

Toilet rough-in dimensions locate the toilet waste pipe and flange assembly in the building
rough and finished floor so that the toilet will be spaced a proper distance from the wall. The
toilet rough-in dimension shows the standard distances to the waste line center from the
finished wall and side wall.

 12" from finished wall behind toilet to center of waste line - may vary by
toilet model

 15" from center of toilet to nearest side wall

 24" clear space in front of the toilet (or more)

  6" from flushometer to highest fixture part (for flush-o-meter toilets)
The hole in the subfloor cut to fit the toilet waste line should be just a bit larger than the drain.
Also, it is best if the toilet sits on top of the finished flooring rather than having a dirt- trapping
joint where the finished floor abuts the fixture.
Next, install the closet flange and secure it to the subfloor with brass or stainless-steel screws.
With vinyl flooring, the flange can sit directly on the subfloor. With tile, use a plywood spacer
to raise the flange to the height of the tile.
NB
To ensure longevity, use brass closet bolts, nuts, and washers rather than the plated steel that is
often packaged with the toilet.
Toilet Setting Tips: Some plumbers use two wax rings. The first is pushed onto the bottom of the
toilet bowl around its drain opening, pushing the wax ring thoroughly into recesses and making
sure that the stick wax seals thoroughly to the bowl bottom and that it does not protrude into
(and thus block) the bowl drain opening.
A second, thin wax ring is then placed onto and gently pushed against the toilet flange ring on the
floor. Alternatively, you can buy an "extra thick" toilet base wax ring seal.

Now as the toilet is set and pushed down onto the toilet flange, rotate the toilet left and right
slightly an inch or two to seal the two wax rings together. This approach can provide a
more thorough seal and plenty of wax to minimize the risk of future leaks around the toilet
base.

 Gradually tighten the nuts on the closet bolts, alternating from one side to the
other until it is snug without over tightening.

 Finally, apply a bead of silicone caulk around the sides and front of the toilet foot,
leaving the back unsealed. This will allow leaks to be spotted before serious
damage develops.

INSTALLATION FOR A Wash Hand Basin (W.H.B)

1. Get the necessary tools for the job. You can install a new sink with basic tools and new
components that match the valves already installed in your plumbing. Make sure you
have:
 Silicone caulking
 Plumbers' wrenches, either pipe wrench or slip-joint pliers
 Basin wrench
 Set of plumbing sockets

2. Turn off the water supply valves. Typically located beneath the sink, it's critical that you shut
off the water supply to the sink before you remove it. If the valves are not beneath the sink,
then you'll have to turn off the main water supply. This is typically located on a lower level or
the basement near the water meter.
 To test, turn on the hot and cold water on your sink and make sure no water comes out
before proceeding.
3. Remove the old WHB, if necessary. If you're replacing a WHB, you'll obviously need to
remove the WC that's in place before installing the new one. Disconnect the supply and drain
lines from the faucet, using locking pliers or a crescent wrench. A small amount of water may
leak out when you do this, which is normal. Just use a bucket or a towel to handle the water
that leaks out.
 Locate the large nut that connects the sink to the drain and disconnect it. This metal or
plastic nut will be located either in the wall or the floor. Use your hands or locking pliers to
unscrew the nut.
 Remove the current sink by sliding the edge of a putty knife around the perimeter of
the bathroom sink, loosening any caulk that connects it. Pull it loose.
Measure the new sink to make sure it fits the space. All new sinks should come with a template of
the mounting opening, marking the location of the faucet holes, including a cutout for the sink.
You can use the template to make sure the sink fits in the desired location. If it doesn’t, you
may need to do some trimming or, or cut the entire opening if you're installing a sink in a house
under construction.
 Most new sinks come with clips and screws that are used to hold the sink in place. If you buy a
faucet, sometimes it’ll come with the drain and tailpiece for the sink. If it isn’t included, get
one
before you start. The supply lines for the faucet need to correspond to the faucet and valves under
the sink, so make sure they match before you get started.

MOUNTING THE NEW SINK

1. Put the sink in place and caulk it. Put a thin bead of silicone around the bottom lip of the
sink and set it into the hole. Clean up any excess silicone or smooth a line. Depending on the
design of the sink and the opening where it connects to the plumbing lines, you may need to
caulk in any number of different places.
 For under mount sinks, put a bead of silicone under, have someone hold the sink in place,
and install the connecting clips included with the sink.
 You might have to pre-drill holes with a diamond carbide tip if you’re installing the sink in
a granite/stone counter.

2. Secure the sink with clips. Connective clips are often included with new sinks to help
anchor the units into place, in addition to the sealing caulk. The design of this varies, and will
depend on the type of sink and the design, but they usually act like a lever to hold the sink in
place. Follow the instructions included with the new sink and defer to the manufacturer's
guidelines.

3. Install the faucet. New faucets usually screw onto the faucet assembly in a clockwise
direction. Some faucets will have a rubber gasket around the base, and screw on easily, while
others will recommend using silicone sealant to secure to the sink or counter. You can anchor
the faucet by reaching up underneath and using lock nuts that are included with the
installation kit.
 Sometimes it may be easier to install the faucet before the sink, depending on the design of
the counter and the fixtures. Make sure the space for the faucet matches the location of the
sink, using the template to measure before you install anything.

4. Install the tailpiece and drain kit. Drop the tailpiece through the sink and screw on the
tailpiece nut from underneath. Some sinks come with gaskets that go between sink and
tailpiece.
If it doesn’t, use non-hardening plumbers' putty or silicone to create the seal. Install the gasket, the
included cardboard washer, and the locknut to secure the tail piece

PPE used when carrying out installation / fixing of appliances

A. Face protection
Goggles and face protection must be used
when workers are at risk from flying
particles, liquid chemicals, acids or
caustic liquids and chemical gases.
Various goggles for face protection
must meet certain design criteria for
safety.

B. Foot Protection
Safety shoes with impact protection are used in
work areas where heavy objects or tools could
be accidentally dropped on the feet. Safety
shoes with puncture protection are required
when working around nails, wire tacks, scrap
metals and other objects that could fierce the
feet.

C. Hand Protection
Gloves are required to protect the hands of
workers from cuts, scrapes, punctures, burns,
chemical absorption, and exhaust temperatures.
It is crucial that the type of glove being used is
the right one for the job.
 D. Hearing Protection
Appropriate ear muffs or ear plugs must be made
available as a last resort if it is not possible to make
the workplace less noisy. The requirement is a small
part of the occupational noise exposure standard
which requires employers to ensure that workers are
exposed to less than 90 decibels of noise over an 8-
hour period.
E. Respirators
Appropriate respirators must be worn as a last
resort if it is not possible to ventilate the work
area properly.

4.2.3.4. Learning Activities

Practical Activities

With assistance from your trainer, install the appliances as shown on the isometric drawing
Self-Assessment

i. Sketch THREE types of Urinals.

ii. Outline the procedure to follow in installing a WC.
iii. Outline the procedure for installing a Wash Hand Basin.

4.2.3.5. Tools, Equipment, Supplies and Materials

 Simple water storage system
 Pipe threading equipment.
 Pipe cutter.
 Hacksaw.
 Vise bench.
 Files.
 Steel rule.
 PPE
 Screws.
 Adhesives.
 Pipes.
 Traps.
 Caulking materials.
 Pipe wrench.
 Fittings.
 Water

4.2.3.6. References
P. S. Gahlot., 2006, Building repair and maintenance management, first edition.
Antonio Curado et al,.New Materials and Technologies in Building Water Piping Systems,
India plumbing today January.
S. M. Patil,. 2004. Building services‖, published by S.M Patil and Mrs Kavita S. Patil,
Mumbai, Mays, L., 2001. Water resources engineering. New York: Wiley.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_distribution_system .
MODEL ANSWERS

1. Bowl Urinal

2. Stall urinal
 3. Slab Urinal

4. Outline the procedure to follow in installing a WC

Examine the WC it for any manufacturing defects that can cause leaks or prevent it from sealing
fully to the closet flange.

Check to ensure the base (foot) of the toilet is flat or it will have a tendency to rock and break the
seal, leading to odors and leakage.

Ensure the floor framing where the toilet will be mounted is adequate. Ideally the toilet
should sit between two joists set no more than 12 inches on-center, with blocking nailed on
either side of the drain to reinforce the area around the closet flange.

locate the toilet waste pipe and flange assembly in the building rough and finished floor so that the
toilet will be spaced a proper distance from the wall. The toilet rough-in dimension shows the
standard distances to the waste line center from the finished wall and side wall.

 12" from finished wall behind toilet to center of waste line - may vary by
toilet model

 15" from center of toilet to nearest side wall

 24" clear space in front of the toilet (or more)
 6" from flushometer to highest fixture part (for flush-o-meter toilets)
 The hole in the subfloor cut to fit the toilet waste line should be just a bit larger than the
drain. Also, it is best if the toilet sits on top of the finished flooring rather than having a
dirt- trapping joint where the finished floor abuts the fixture.
Next, install the closet flange and secure it to the subfloor with brass or stainless-steel screws.
With vinyl flooring, the flange can sit directly on the subfloor. With tile, use a plywood spacer
to raise the flange to the height of the tile.

Gradually tighten the nuts on the closet bolts, alternating from one side to the other until it is
snug without over tightening.
Apply a bead of silicone caulk around the sides and front of the toilet foot, leaving the back
unsealed. This will allow leaks to be spotted before serious damage develops.

5. Outline the procedure for installing a Wash Hand Basin

1. Put the sink in place and caulk it. Put a thin bead of silicone around the bottom lip of the
sink and set it into the hole. Clean up any excess silicone or smooth a line. Depending on the
design of the sink and the opening where it connects to the plumbing lines, you may need to
caulk in any number of different places.
 For undermount sinks, put a bead of silicone under, have someone hold the sink in place,
and install the connecting clips included with the sink.
 You might have to pre-drill holes with a diamond carbide tip if you’re installing the sink in
a granite/stone counter.

2. Secure the sink with clips. Connective clips are often included with new sinks to help
anchor the units into place, in addition to the sealing caulk. The design of this varies, and will
depend on the type of sink and the design, but they usually act like a lever to hold the sink in
place. Follow the instructions included with the new sink and defer to the manufacturer's
guidelines.
3. Install the faucet. New faucets usually screw onto the faucet assembly in a clockwise
direction. Some faucets will have a rubber gasket around the base, and screw on easily, while
others will recommend using silicone sealant to secure to the sink or counter. You can anchor
the faucet by reaching up underneath and using lock nuts that are included with the
installation kit.
  Sometimes it may be easier to install the faucet before the sink, depending on the design
of the counter and the fixtures. Make sure the space for the faucet matches the location
of the sink, using the template to measure before you install anything.

4. Install the tailpiece and drain kit. Drop the tailpiece through the sink and screw on the
tailpiece nut from underneath. Some sinks come with gaskets that go between sink and
tailpiece.
If it doesn’t, use non-hardening plumbers' putty or silicone to create the seal. Install the gasket, the
included cardboard washer, and the locknut to secure the tail piece.
 4.2.4 Learning Outcome 4: Test and commission working of sanitary appliances

4.2.4.1. Introduction to the learning outcome

This learning outcome enlightens the trainee on how to test the functionality of an installed sanitary
component or system before it is commissioned for use.

4.2.4.2. Performance Standard

1. Functionality of the appliance is tested based on best practices.

2. Faults in appliance functionality are corrected based on best practices
3. The works are commissioned in accordance to job requirements

4.2.4.3. Information Sheet

Introduction to testing of Plumbing Systems

Definitions of terms
 Test - a procedure intended to establish the quality, performance, or reliability of a
system before it is taken into widespread use.
 Functionality - the quality of being suited to serve a purpose well.
 Fluid - a substance, as a liquid or gas, that is capable of flowing and that changes its shape at
a steady rate when acted upon by a force tending to change its shape.
 Fault/defect - unsatisfactory feature in a piece of work.
 Workplace policy - course of action adopted by an organization.
 Leakage - escape of liquid or gas through a hole or crack.
 Outcome – the end result of an operation.
 Commission - bringing a newly constructed system into working condition.
  Waterproofing - applying a physical barrier to pipes and appliances to prevent
moisture penetration into a structure.
 Caulking – applying a waterproof filler and sealant building work and repairs.

TYPES OF TESTS DONE ON PLUMBING SYSTEMS

Plumbing tests are usually done for the purpose of ensuring correct work, free from defects arising
after installation of components and systems. There are four different methods of testing the
plumbing systems which include;

1. water test
2. air test
3. peppermint test
4. smoke test

Of these, the water, peppermint, and smoke tests are most commonly used. The water and air
tests are chiefly used as the first test on new work. When it comes to the final test, either the
peppermint or smoke test may be applied. Each is thorough when properly applied.

Before the final test is applied, all fixtures should be in position and the system entirely complete,
and the traps filled with water.

1. WATER TEST
Is applied on new work where any defective leaks in joints will be readily detected when the
system is filled with water. The mode of applying the water test is to close up all openings in
pipes, either by soldering the ends shut or by plugs with caps. These plugs are made in different
forms to suit all the uses for which they may be called upon in testing a job. The water supply
for testing may be connected to the end of the test plug where capped, with a stop-cock to shut
off when necessary; and then the system is ready for filling. The filling should be done slowly,
and any leaks found should be immediately fixed. Where a leak occurs in a lead joint which
only requires a little more caulking, the water may be shut off until this is done.
Water test

2. AIR TEST

The air test shall be made by attaching an air compressor testing apparatus to any suitable opening,
and after closing all other inlets and outlets to the system, forcing air into the system until there
is a uniform gage pressure of five (5) pounds per square inch (34.5 kPa. The pressure shall be
held without introduction of additional air for a period of at least fifteen (15) minutes.

The air test subjects all parts of the system to the same uniform pressure, while the pressure in the
water test varies from zero pressure at the top to a pressure at the bottom depending upon the
height of the stack. In applying the air test, all openings are closed. Through any convenient
plug, a gas pipe is connected, to which a mercury gauge is attached, and hose connection made
to the force pump. The air pumped into the system exerts a pressure on the mercury, forcing it
upward in the tube about two inches for each pound of air pressure.
Air test

3. SMOKE TEST.

The smoke test is another test that can be applied to roughed-in new work. It is used most
frequently, however, in testing old work, or in testing new work after the fixtures have been set.
The manner of applying a smoke test is to close all openings, the same as for the water test, and
also the openings at the roof. The testing machine, which is made especially for this purpose, is
then connected to the piping system, and the smoke turned into the pipes.
Smoke test

4. PEPPERMINT TEST.

The peppermint test is applied by putting about two ounces of oil of peppermint into the system
at the roof, after all openings have been closed as with the other tests, and pouring about a
gallon of hot water into the piping, immediately closing the opening with a plug kept at hand
for the purpose. The fumes of the peppermint are supposed to travel throughout the system of
piping, and to penetrate any existing leaks, the presence of which can then be detected from the
characteristic smell. There being no pressure applied in this test, there is a possibility of the
odor not escaping through very small leaks; and this test, therefore, is not so reliable as the
water or smoke tests.
Learning Activities

Practical activity

Instruction: Assemble a sanitary water system as shown in the diagram and Test its
functionality using the water test.
Sanitary water system
 Materials Required
 Simple water storage system
 Pipe wrench
 Pipe threading equipment.
 Pipe cutter.
 Hacksaw.
 Vise bench.
 Files.
 Steel rule.
 PPE
 Screws.
 Adhesives.
 Pipes.
 Traps.
 Caulking materials.
 Fittings.
 Water

1.4.3.4.1 A case study

With the assistance of your trainer, conduct a Field visit to a nearby facility with a well-
established plumbing system and fill in the field visit notebook indicating the key areas listed

Visit Objective/Aim Indicators Special Instruction

To identify the established A list of plumbing systems Must correctly identify the
plumbing systems in use. available plumbing systems

To identify the possible faults A list of faults Must indicate the function
of the systems identified. possible faults for each

To assess the functionality of Functionality table Must fill in the table for
the plumbing systems each system.
Self-Assessment
1. Which four tests would you apply when testing the functionality of
a plumbing system?
2. Which three waterproofing materials would you use to correct a
leaking elbow?
3. What are the four causes of pump failure?
4. What causes clogging in pipes?
5. Why do pipes leak?

4.2.4.4. Tools, Equipment, Supplies and Materials

 200 litre plastic tank.
 100 litre plastic tank.
 PPR threaded union
 Rigid PPR pipe
 PPR bend
 Flexible PPR pipe
 Pipe threading machine
 Pipe cutter
 Pipe wrench
 Adjustable spanner
 Seal tape
 Timber
 Claw hammer
 Saw
 Spirit level
 Plumb bob
 Tape measure
 Hose pipe
 Tap
  File
 PPE (Gloves, safety boots, dust coat, goggles, helmet)
 Gate valve
 Ball valve
 Centrifugal pump

4.2.4.5. References
Mays, L., 2001. Water resources engineering. New York: Wiley.
Cauldwell, R., 2005. Remodel plumbing. Newtown, CT: Taunton Press, pp.24-35.
Blower, G., (2007). Plumbing. Welwyn Garden City: Pearson Education UK.
https://www.co.lincoln.wa.us/land-services/plumbing-testing/
https://chestofbooks.com/home-improvement/construction/plumbing/Plumbing
https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Building-Plumbing.php
https://www.beecavedrilling.com/storage-tank-systems.html

4.2.4.6. Model Answers

1. Which four tests would you apply when testing the functionality of
a plumbing system?
 Water
 Smoke
 Air
 Peppermint
2. Which three waterproofing materials would you use to correct a
leaking elbow?
 Cement Waterproofing.
 Bituminous Membrane.
 Teflon tape.
 Caulk.
3. What are the four causes of pump failure?
 a) Stuck switches
b) An overwhelming amount of water
c) Clogged pipes
d) Improper pump installation
4. What causes clogging in pipes?
 Sticky or hard substance such as a stone or other foreign body passes through pipes it causes
obstruction or partially closing the valves and pipes.

5. Why do pipes leak?

 joint damage
 excessive water pressure
 cracked pipes
 incorrect pipe laying