Sanders Family History: Leonard de Sanderstead (c1146-c1200)
Sanders Family History: Leonard de Sanderstead (c1146-c1200)
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Sanders Family History: Leonard De
Sanderstead (C1146-C1200)
This book provides original research on a person called Leonard de
Sanderstead, who is recognized as the first person in England to bear
the surname Sanders, at least in a variant form. It tries to bring to
life a notable figure from the 1100s usi
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Sanders Family History: Leonard De
Sanderstead (C1146-C1200)
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history
otherwise injured by the violence of the wind which blew them up to
this grassy height.
The islands, three principal ones, and some lesser, lay scattered out
to sea beyond the hill; the nearest perhaps not more than a quarter
of a mile off; and, between them and the mainland, ran a fierce
current.
They were very picturesque, as they lay, one behind the other, each
with its warning lighthouse perched on its rocky summit. The largest
was several miles in length, and had soft green patches mingling
with the cold grey of its granite walls. But, even to-day, under a
cloudless blue sky and calm still atmosphere, the white surf beat
against the steep sides; and, as the sun sank lower towards the
horizon, a blood-red hue crept over the rough, jagged island heads,
which suggested another and more literal meaning for their
appellation of the Bloody Islands.
CHAPTER XIX.
The 10th, 11th, and 12th of May were grand days at Ajaccio;
regattas going on the first two days, and horse races on the third.
For some days beforehand preparations were being made, triumphal
arches put up, and posts hung with Chinese lanterns. For once, the
Corsican natives seemed to wake up, and an unwonted number of
men were to be seen, in their excitement standing upright, instead
of lounging before their doors or lying asleep upon the quay.
Saturday, the first day of the regatta, was rather a failure, owing to
the weather. It was a gloomy chilly day, raining a good deal in the
morning.
In the afternoon, however, it cleared up partially, and we strolled out
under a grey sky towards the harbour. The Agincourt lay in the
offing, sent by the English Government as a compliment to the
French; and also a large American vessel, as well as some handsome
steamers.
Leaving the crowd upon the quay, we climbed out upon the masses
of great white stone, which just now constitute the remains of the
pier. It shows the force of the waves, even here in this sheltered
corner of the bay, that, a few months ago, during a sudden storm,
these enormous masses were broken up and thrown one upon
another by the furious waters, like wooden blocks heaped up by a
child.
It was exciting work climbing upon these blocks, and looking down
upon the bright emerald water and white surface rolling under our
feet, or playing at catch-me-who-can with the advancing and
retreating waves; but, as far as the regatta went, the scene was as
dull and unenlivening as possible; and two or three sailing vessels
appeared to represent the competitors. Half an hour of this was
quite sufficient, and we returned to our hotel, feeling that foreign
regattas were just as much a slow and stupid pastime as they
usually are in England.
The next day's proceedings, however, were much livelier.
We did not care to see more of the marine amusements, so, after
morning church, spent the afternoon in a lovely drive, reserving the
evening for dissipation.
At this time of the year the season is over, and the pretty little
English church, raised during the last few years through the personal
energy and generosity of a Scotch lady, is usually closed. This it had
been for two or three Sundays before our arrival, since the chaplain
had departed; but this Sunday we had the unusual good fortune of a
choice between two services—one on board the Agincourt, to which
the officers kindly invited us, and one in the little church itself.
With a strong desire to attend both at the same time, we finally
decided on the church at our gates, feeling it a duty not to lessen
the small congregation expected there, and perhaps a little
comforted by the heavy swell that reigned in the bay, and which
might possibly affect the deck of the Agincourt.
So we made three of the little congregation of fifteen, where the
chaplain of the winter before last (who happened to be on a visit)
read prayers; and Dr. Prothero, queen's preacher (on board a yacht
in the harbour), preached a beautiful sermon on the text, "Master,
we have toiled all the night, and have taken nothing." We were not
even devoid of music, owing to the kind offer of a young Englishman
stopping at the hotel, whose harmonium strains we all followed to
the best of our fifteen abilities.
Dinner was a very merry one in the hotel that evening. About eight
of the Agincourt officers, accompanied by a noble colley dog, joined
our small party, and added a good deal to our sociability. In honour
of them we had quite a genteel spread, and generous allowance of
nuts and oranges, some of which served to seduce the Ajaccio street
gamins, peering curiously in at the open window, into a condition of
excitement which resulted in the well-merited reproof of cold pig,
administered unseen from an upper window—and in their
consequent flight.
The whole town was en fête to-night, and at eight o'clock we went
out to see the fun. Fun it certainly was; the entire population out
and enjoying itself noisily; but, apparently, no one rough or tipsy or
disorderly.
Most of the principal buildings were illuminated; whilst the town
presented quite a fairy-like appearance. Down all the principal
streets, there was a continuous succession of large Chinese lanterns,
hung from posts about eight feet high; and nothing could well have
been prettier than this uninterrupted line of hundreds of golden
balls, scarcely swaying in the still evening air.
The Hôtel de Ville, close by the quay, appeared to be the centre of
excitement, and here a thousand or two of people, chiefly men,
shouted and hurrahed, jostling each other good-humouredly, and
without fear of pickpockets.
It was pleasant for once to see the popular apathy in abeyance.
The light which streamed from the illuminations on the houses round
lit up the large open square with its seething mass of humanity into
picturesque groups, showing here a black velveteened Corsican with
a white kerchiefed companion, there a French soldier in bright
uniform, and, further on, two grinning, good-tempered British tars,
as shiningly clean and as much at their ease as they have a habit of
looking all over the globe.
A little higher up, it fell, with a fainter radiance, upon Napoleon's
grave features in the Place du Marché, turning the numerous
fountain jets around him into rainbow arches of fairy-like tracery.
We had not been long on the quay before the shouting redoubled,
and the crowd, falling back with some difficulty, made room for a
procession to pass out from the Hôtel de Ville.
A tremendous tattoo was heard, and out came a band with a
prodigious number of drums, every one of which was made to exert
itself to the fullest extent of its parchment lungs. It was preceded by
a large flag, vociferously applauded, and which, doubtless, was the
national flag, and followed by a troop of soldiers bearing aloft
Chinese lanterns or flaming torches fastened upon poles.
Forming upon the Place outside, they started off on the tour of the
town, followed by most of the populace; and the great square
became deserted. For the next hour it was very pretty to see them,
as, at some break in the streets or sudden turn, the golden lamps
and torches came into sight in the distance, winding in and out, and
moving slowly on, followed by the roll of drums and the shouting
crowds.
Meanwhile, we strolled up and down the quay, close beside the edge
of the water, waiting for the electric light which had been promised
from the deck of the Agincourt, and which was our national quota
contributed to the night's amusement. All afternoon the English
nation had been "doing the civil" in honour of the occasion, which
was said to be the first on which a British man-of-war had appeared
upon the Corsican coasts out of compliment, and not for business.
Tribes of residents had visited the ship, and been introduced to the
captain's cabin, where fraternity had been sworn between French
and English, and sealed with champagne.
It was a beautiful evening for the electric light; calm and still, and so
dark, that it was with some difficulty we managed to escape falling
over the unprotected sides of the quay, and thus meeting a watery
grave.
At first it burnt simply as a bright star upon the deck of the
Agincourt; then, moving swiftly round, it turned a stream of light,
clearer than day, upon the distant horizon, lighting up sailing boats
upon the far-off line; then again, piercing the utter darkness to one
side, it suddenly brought a fishing smack, at anchor in the harbour a
furlong or so off, into closest contiguity, showing every rope upon its
yards, every man on deck, in clearest detail.
Then, with mysterious, stealthy movement, flitting on, it turned
abruptly towards the quay, and a shout of delight broke from the
spectators, as the houses round shone in the glare of day, and the
faces of the crowd stood out for a few minutes in unnatural
clearness.
There was something appallingly, horribly perfect about the
management of the light; and one felt almost sorry for the foe
whose little night manœuvres would be rendered entirely hopeless
by such an invention.
The light played about for more than an hour, and then faded slowly
away; and we returned to our hotel while still the crowds were
shouting and amusing themselves, but with some of the hanging
lanterns already beginning to take fire in the deserted Cours
Grandval, and drop unnoticed on to the darkening pathway.
The nest day, Monday, this same Cours was to be the scene of
another wild excitement.
The horse races are always held up this road, which is hard and not
too good, and terminates in a steep hill.
Every evening, about six o'clock, for some weeks, the practising for
these races had been going on; and consisted generally of four or
five raw-boned horses with long striding paces, ridden by rather
ragged jockeys, sans saddle, and with reins held well up in the air.
This did not promise great things for the eventful day; but perhaps
the races turned out better than appearances warranted.
We saw nothing of them; for, after a breakfast at 6 a.m., and a
farewell to a dear canine friend called Chivey, we started off that
very morning for a week's tour to the forest of Bavella.
CHAPTER XX.
A RAW LUNCH.
It was a lovely sunny morning when we three, in high spirits, set out
on our expedition to the forest of Bavella, and the south of the
island.
Our open carriage was exceedingly comfortable, with a hood in case
of bad weather; the bay horses went well, and the coachman
appeared irreproachable.
There is no feeling in the world so exhilarating and delicious as that
experienced in starting off on a Bohemian tour, without luggage,
without responsibilities, unhampered by fear of railway time-tables
or the care of boxes, dawdling or hurrying at will, starting at what
hour one pleases, and out all day in the fresh mountain air, with al
fresco meals and a turf siesta. It is the gipsy's life, robbed of its
discomforts, but not of its primitive ease and romance.
As we rolled round the circular bay, and up the winding ascent on
the further side, the water sparkled calmly in the glassy mist of
morning sunshine, and the Agincourt lay with deserted deck, like a
"painted ship upon a painted ocean."
But the road leading to the town was already all astir with country
people coming in for the races; and, further on, higher up the hill, as
the pretty white houses of Ajaccio on their spit of land grew less and
less distinct against the blue Mediterranean, we met with more and
more of these.
Men and women, all on muleback, and all seated astride—
sometimes two men, or a woman and boy on one animal—the men
with their gun behind their shoulder, and their red gourd slung by
their side,—were driving strings of cows, horses, and foals before
them, for the fair which was to be held that morning prior to the
races.
All the men lifted their caps politely; but some of the animals
objected strongly to us and our carriage, and could scarcely be got
to pass us.
We soon passed away from the sea-coast and the sea views, and
entered the inland country, among green hills, and past a broad
river, with blue and snow-streaked mountains rising up before us.
Presently approaching the village of Cauro or Cavro, where we
changed horses, the mountain of Bastelica stood out in unrivalled
grandeur of white cone above us; and as we slowly ascended the
steep road in the exquisite freshness of morning, the birds sang
loudly and continuously from the banks of white cystus which
covered the lower parts of the wooded slopes lining the road.
Though so early, it was almost too hot to walk; and when we
reached Cauro, the horses were in a bath of perspiration.
From Ajaccio to Cauro and Bastelica is a favourite excursion; but it is
a very long and fatiguing one for one day, and Cauro does not look a
tempting place for a night's rest.
As we left Cauro and continued our steep ascent, the mountains
grew grander, and the trees increased. Maquis of the most delicious
sort followed the roadside, and the air was laden with the strong
scent of the tall Mediterranean heath, which fought with arbutus and
cystus for the foremost place, whilst cyclamen, golden bloom, and
hellebore clustered at their feet.
Here we met some women whose costume astonished us
considerably. Their white handkerchiefs were closely wrapped about
their faces as well as heads, in Mohammedan fashion, covering up
all their features, and leaving only the eyes visible. They appeared to
be on their way to Ajaccio, and were driving a few cows before
them; but it seemed more than probable that they would be
suffocated with heat before they got there. On one other occasion,
in the region of Bastia, we met with some more women dressed
after the same uncomfortable fashion, but failed to discover its
meaning.
Up on the summit of the Col, overlooking lovely views, was a most
filthy, picturesque village. Queer little balconies surrounded half-
ruined but inhabited houses, which were approached from the
sloping hill-side by broken-down wooden bridges.
Stalking about in front of one of them, was a dignified and majestic-
looking goat, enormously large, as are many of the Corsican goats,
and of a peculiar piebald—pure white up to the shoulders, and jet
black over head and neck. He seemed to hold the porcine and
canine companions (who, with him, had evidently the right of entry
into most of the houses) in supreme contempt; and it was a marvel
to me how he had preserved the cleanly whiteness of his long hair—
for the small specimens of ragged humanity who sat upon the dung-
heaps close by, or swarmed noisily after the carriage, were so
encrusted with dirt as to leave their original colour a matter of
speculation.
But we did not pause long in this unsavoury village. We were soon
through its one little street, dashing down—through green hills, and
by falling streams with trees overhead, with a succession of exquisite
mountain ranges, one layer behind the other, lying before us—to the
cleaner village of Grosseto.
From Grosseto to Bechisano—a hamlet of some size, where we were
to make the mid-day halt—the views were most lovely. For miles we
wound above a verdant gorge, grassy broken hills on either side,
and grey moss-covered rocky cliffs rising immediately beneath us
from the bed of a foaming boulder-strewn river, sometimes hidden
by the bending trees which caressed its rapid stream.
From the pretty stone bridge of two uneven arches which presently
spanned this river, a beautiful view was obtained of winding waters,
green tufted rocks and background of jagged blue mountain tops.
Every turn was a richer study for an artist, and Nos. 1 and 3 lived in
a constant frenzy of effort to secure a sketch, under the
unfavourable conditions of a rapidly descending carriage, and two
minutes of time allowed.
The irritation became a little less when once more we commenced
ascending towards Bechisano; but the sky was now growing heavy
and ominous with dark blue clouds, and the shade cast over us by a
great hill—covered from top to bottom with ilex-trees, some hoary
and grey with age, but for the most part shining in their rich young
green with golden shoots—was no longer welcome, but depressing
and gloomy.
Close to Bechisano, and exactly as we reached the summit of the Col
San Georgio, the storm burst upon us. It had been raining more and
more heavily for some time, when suddenly, without a previous
rumble of any kind, came a vivid flash of lightning that blinded us,
accompanied instantaneously by a crash of thunder like the firing of
artillery.
After that storm, I never felt a moment's suspicion of Corsican
horses.
We were creeping up the hill, the driver walking beside them; and
although he put out his hand and silently clutched the reins, the
jump they gave was almost imperceptible. As for him, he never
turned a hair, but continued his silent reflective walk with the same
equanimity, whilst the lightning flashed about him playfully, and
spouts of rain poured down from his wide-awake hat.
The next hour was spent in a vain endeavour to keep out the driving
sheets of rain which made all nature a blurred blot around us; and
when we got out at Bechisano our feet were in a pool an inch or two
deep, and our shawls made running streams over the floor of the
dirty little inn. This inn was a wretched welcome, even for travellers
so drowned and depressed as we were. There was a better one
about half a mile further on, at the other end of the village; but,
through some mistake, for which he afterwards deeply reproached
himself, our driver halted here.
The little broken glass door led into two very small rooms, one
opening out of the other, both stone floored; with one or two
apologies for chairs, and a greasy table in the first room. This
apartment had no fireplace; so necessity forced us to take refuge in
the inner one, where a few sticks burnt upon the hearth, and where
the family of four or five men and women, a dog, and a due
proportion of babies, were huddled together, but they politely
endeavoured to make room for us and our steaming garments. It
was difficult not to stumble over the smaller fry, as the tiny room
appeared to have no window, and was only partially lit up by gleams
from the wood fire.
Logs, however, were piled up for our benefit; and as we made a
feeble effort to dry our soaked feet, a cheerful maiden prepared our
mid-day meal in the next room.
The floor of this room was in such a condition, that, when we
entered and took our places beside the round table, we kept our
eyes carefully turned heavenward, for fear of losing our appetites.
We need not have feared, however, for there was nothing to eat.
Raw ham, with a steel fork sticking in it, was first offered to us; and
when we declined that, then raw fish, and afterwards some third
dish, likewise raw, of what nature I forget. We were hungry, and
began to be desperate.
"Could nothing cooked be had?" inquired No. 3. "For the English do
not eat their food uncooked."
The woman looked amazed and perplexed. "Mais non?" she asked,
incredulously, as we pushed away the unpalatable dishes.
But our relief was great when it turned out that the inn boasted a
small leg of mutton, which could at once be got ready for us. This
was done by placing the meat upon a charred log, with a dish
beneath, and dropping lard upon it. When roasted, it was more like
a rabbit leg than a mutton leg, but was not bad, and, together with
a very good omelette, soon disappeared, to the relief of our famine.
There are but two things which it is safe to order for lunch in these
third-rate Corsican inns, and which are invariably eatable and good—
omelette and broccia.
One of the queerest anomalies in Corsica are the perfectly clean
dinner napkins, with which you are invariably supplied in the poorest
inns; and which contrast with the total absence of tea-spoons and
saucers at breakfast, and the appearance of the dirty two-pronged
forks at dinner.
The old man, to whom the establishment belonged, assisted at our
lunch, and was delighted to air his French, which, like his daughter's,
seemed to consist of a capacity of saying half a dozen words, and
not understanding one.
Conversation, under these circumstances, with the most polite
intentions, became somewhat embarrassing; and pleasing diversions
were caused by the entrance of a blind man, led in to the fireside in
the inner room, and the occasional onslaughts made by mine host
upon the juvenile inquirers, who, regardless of the pouring rain,
pressed their wet noses persistently against the panes of the glass
door, to obtain a glimpse of the Inglese.
They had their reward when, shortly afterwards, the carriage came
round again, and we packed ourselves in, amid an admiring crowd.
It was still raining, but not so heavily, and there was no possibility of
a recurrence of the pond beneath our feet, as our driver had bored
three little holes in the flooring of the carriage to act as drainers.
From Bechisano to Propriano, a drive of about four hours, the road is
one continual descent through steep rocky hills of picturesque form;
some covered with shrubs, and some with trees, and often
overhanging the road as it winds by the edge of the precipice.
Not far from Bechisano we passed a great boulder, hanging over the
road and supported by two or three tiny ones, reminding one of a
huge cromlech. Near to it spread a many-tongued waterfall, spanned
by a stone bridge, from under which it poured its heavy volume of
water into the gorge beneath.
Ilex and great hedges of Mediterranean heath grew by the roadside;
and, as we approached the large village of Olmeto, and the hills
opened out a little, a superb panorama of mountains rose behind us.
Olmeto is a gloomy-looking village, perched half-way up the
mountain side ascending from before Propriano.
It has something forbidding about its aspect, and gave one a
shudder as one passed through. The houses are filthy, and many of
them lie in untouched ruins, with here and there a half-broken
balcony, and, much more rarely, an unbroken window; and the men
who stand and slouch at the street corners have a dark,
inhospitable, hang-dog look about them, which is no improvement
upon the usual national expression, half contemptuous, half good-
natured, of lethargic pride.
Olmeto and the neighbouring village of Olio have both an
exceedingly bad reputation.
The men out-Herod Herod in idleness, even for Corsicans; and
nearly every man carries his gun and pistol, even to patrol the
village street. Two or three murders occur every year in Olmeto
alone; and the only wonder is that the number is not greater.
The vendetta is of course very strong at Olmeto; and altogether, it
must be an uncomfortable place to live in.
No women at all were visible in the village, either on our passing
through it on our way to Propriano or on our return some days later;
the presumption being, that the weaker but wiser sex were, Corsican
fashion, making up in some degree for the dangerous idleness of
their lords by their own household industry.
Coming back to Ajaccio by this same route, our driver pointed out to
me, near the Col San Georgio, about half-way between Bechisano
and Olmeto, a little maquis-covered hill by the lonely roadside.
There, he said, among the thick shrubs, about a year ago, a man
concealed himself to lay wait for a passing gendarme.
This man's father had been a bandit, whom, in the performance of
his duty, years ago, the gendarme had shot.
Upon the bandit's death, his son had taken to the hills, vowing
vengeance upon his father's murderer.
For years he had waited patiently for his victim, until this day, when
he knew he must pass by alone.
Shot after shot pursued the gendarme from his hidden foe, until at
length one pierced his neck, and laid him stiff upon the grass, where
his dead body was found some time afterwards by a passer-by.
Tombs were scattered along the roadside beyond Olmeto here and
there; and an avenue of young trees was planted for some way
down the descent. The mountains were magnificent; and before us
rose a peculiar, high, conical hill, rearing itself abruptly from the
gorge, surmounted by a crag which bore the most extraordinary
likeness to a ruined castle.
Peeps of blue sea shone out at our feet as we went lower and lower;
and presently, turning a corner, the full wide sweep of the Gulf of
Valinco, glittering in evening sunshine, opened out before us. Heavy
white surf lined the red shore, and five or six good-sized charcoal
vessels, trading to Italy, lay in the harbour.
Propriano gleamed white and pretty just above the sea, surrounded
by its many little bays, as we dashed down the hill-side, through
green country lanes, lined by wide hedges of brilliant purple vetch
and ponderous prickly pear. Then, reaching the plain, we wound
round the boggy, sandy shore, and mounted into the little narrow
street of Propriano, full of shouting children and grunting pigs, up to
the door of the Hôtel de France.
Very grand was the title of our inn, but not so grand its exterior, nor
the dirty little staircase and ground floor. The upper storey, however,
showed us a clean, airy, cheerful salle à manger, into which opened
three little bedrooms of inviting appearance, and apparently
irreproachable cleanliness. The muslin window curtains were crisp
and new, the floors were swept, and the blankets, as well as the
sheets, bore inspection. The washing basins, too, were much beyond
the usual regulation size of a soup plate.
Whilst the good and cheap dinner was preparing, Nos. 2 and 3 took
a turn up the little town, and scrambled out upon the sea-shore.
A lovely blood-red sunset showed off to advantage the purple range
of hills opposite, with the Genoese tower at their furthest point, and
cast deep shadows over the Col San Georgio, with its sparkling snow
neighbours, and Olmeto lying on its flanks in sullen twilight. But it
was impossible to enjoy any view with a pursuing crowd of yelling,
mocking children at one's heels; and the usual scourge cut short our
walk.
CHAPTER XXI.
The next morning was showery, but not devoid of sun; and, leaving
No. 1 to rest in the hotel, Nos. 2 and 3 set out early for a country
walk.
Our first object was to escape our juvenile foes; our second to get
upon the sea-shore, which, we had heard, was covered with
beautiful shells. We managed (it being school time, and so a portion
of the little savages out of the way) to effect the first; but the
second was not so easy of attainment as it sounded.
Everywhere, except just beneath the town, the shore was
surrounded by a ridge of sand-hills, divided from the sea by broad,
boggy plains.
The rain that had fallen the last few days made us sink in over the
tops of our boots when we attempted to cross these bogs. So, for
some distance, we continued skirting the sand-hills, and following a
little path, which presently led to a small running stream.
As we were preparing to make our leap over this, a voice suddenly
arrested us.
"What! You don't know the country—you? You two women must not
go alone among the hills!"
Looking up, we saw a young woman standing in the stream before
us, arms akimbo, and contemplating us with disapproving curiosity.
Her face was brown and pretty, with the brightest of coal-black eyes
and white teeth; her petticoats were pinned up above her knees,
and, with her shapely arms covered with soapsuds, and her brown
legs planted firmly in the rapid stream, she presented an artistic
appearance well worthy of the brush of a Faed or a Nicol. Thee was
something audacious and determined, and yet straight-forward,
about the young woman's address and appearance, which impressed
us both.
"Why not?" we asked.
"But why!" she retorted, peremptorily. "Do you know the country,
then? But of course you do not. Any one can see that you are
strangers!"
"Yes," we admitted, "we are strangers. But what then?"
"Ah, well! If you knew the country, you two would not dream of
going about like this by yourselves."
"But why not?" we persisted, vaguely impressed by our companion's
manner. "Every one is good to us in Corsica. What will harm us?
What is there to frighten us?"
The young woman spread out her hands in amazement at our
obstinacy. "What? Well"—with a shrug—"des chiens, et des bergers!"
Later on, we learnt to regard this threat of bergers in somewhat the
same light as the Saracen babies did that of Richard Cœur de Lion,
according to tradition; but at present we had scarcely imbibed that
morbid and not very well-founded dread, and the response of our
black-eyed friend did not inspire the terror she seemed to expect in
our breasts.
For a moment or two we debated, and then, thanking the young
woman for her kindly meant advice, we sprang over the stream and
passed on, leaving her standing staring after us with all her black
eyes, her hands still clasping her supple waist. We had no reason to
repent our resolution, as we wandered amongst the sand-hills,
winding down a little overgrown path which seemed to lead to a
further bay.
Anything like the flowers which, for a mile or so of our way, covered
the hillocks around us, I never saw or dreamt of before.
People talk of the beauties of rock and mountain scenery in Corsica,
and the wild grandeur of its wide forests; but, to my mind, the
distinguishing beauty of Corsica lies in its flowers.
Switzerland and Italy boast their rocks and mountains, and colder
lands their forests; but neither Switzerland nor Italy, nor, I believe,
any other country in Europe, can attempt to rival the flowers of
Corsica in richness of colouring and luxuriance of growth.
Here, as we worked our way through interlacing shrubs, on each
side of us stretched a sea of blossoms, completely hiding from sight
both stalks and green leaves. Sheets of pink and white cystus,
brilliant purple vetch everywhere scrambling over them, scarlet,
crimson, and pink poppies, blue borage, Michaelmas daisies,
cyclamen, and what in England we call the garden sweet-pea,
together with a host of other gorgeous floral dainties, massed and
tangled themselves together in a blaze of beauty.
We had walked about three miles when a muddy bog brought us to
a sudden stop. The bay still lay some distance from us, and we now
saw that a tolerably wide river ran across the plain between it and
us; so we turned back, sadder and wiser, baulked once more, but
with our hands full of lovely flowers.
Not a creature did we see on this dangerous route, except one very
ragged boy who was tearing madly after a herd of cows on the
boggy plain beneath; but here and there, in the distance, were
wretched-looking stone or mud hovels, belonging, no doubt, to the
dreaded bergers of whom we had been warned. These shepherds,
scattered all over the country, among the hills and lonely pastures,
are, according to all accounts, a very rough lot.
They live almost like wild beasts, and appear to be half savage.
Their miserable hovels are generally without window or chimney,
and utterly destitute of furniture, even sometimes of any approach
to a bed, or any cooking utensil.
Their clothes are in rags, and their food consists chiefly of the milk,
cheese, and mutton they obtain from their flocks, with the addition
of sour bread. Their wives are as wild and uncivilized as themselves;
they know little or nothing of religion, and their children grow up
utterly ignorant and uneducated.
I never heard of their robbing strangers; but their rough lawlessness
makes the more civilized village women afraid to go amongst them.
Returning to the village, we determined to brave one of the boggy
plains; and, creeping along by the side of a hillock, managed at last
to reach the sea-shore without much damage. The rocks, scattered
about the little bay on which we entered, completely sheltered us
from the village, and looked picturesquely black with the clear white
foam dashing over them in the occasional gleams of a stormy sun.
Regardless of the great blue-black curtain darkening the hills before
us and spreading over half the sky, we flung ourselves, face
downwards, upon the sands, and commenced an energetic search
for shells.
The shore here was simply covered with them; some small, some
large, but all of them lovely; especially the large Venus' ear, or
Haliotis Tuberculata, with bright mother-of-pearl lining.
A brilliant flash and loud thunder-clap roused us from our interesting
occupation; and, together with heavy rain, put an end to the shell-
gathering of No. 3, who fled ignominiously homewards, leaving No.
2 still reclining in dignified persistency, regardless of storm and rain,
under the lowering sky. It is a very great mistake to wear a billycock
hat and a light-coloured ulster in Corsica. They were the cause of
much persecution to poor No. 3.
When she reached the hotel, she was dripping from head to foot,
and a lively thunder-storm was raging; but this was not cause
sufficient to depress the energy of the infant islander, who (now,
alas! let forth from school), with many a hoot and yell of triumph,
pursued both her and No. 2—who arrived in the same condition ten
minutes later—not only to the door of the hotel, but half-way up the
stone staircase.
I never felt safe on these occasions until I had entered into my
bedroom and locked the door; as the bolder part of the troop
sometimes came to the very door of the sitting-room upstairs: and I
always felt an affinity with the poor fox pursued by his yelping pack
of tormentors.
At length, emerging heated and indignant from my retirement,
"Why," asked I, of the broad, good-humoured landlady, who, with
Italian head-gear and voluble tongue, had just come upstairs,
dispersing the juveniles on her way—"Why are your Corsican
children such fiends, and how do they ever manage to grow up into
such respectable, civil men and women?"
"Ah, mademoiselle," said she, "you must forgive them; they are very
rude; but, voilà, they take you for men! At least, they say you are
women dressed up in men's clothes. I heard them calling it out on
the stairs," she continued. "One says, 'The tall one is a man!' and
the other says, 'They are both men. Don't you see they have both
men's hats, and men's cloaks, and black pantaloons?'"
Alas for English fashions of 1879! Ulsters, wideawakes, and tight
black dresses suited the spring climate of Corsica uncommonly well;
but not equally well the tastes of the inhabitants.
FOOTNOTES
[1] "Poems written in Barracks."
[2] Personal enemies of Canino, who betrayed him to the soldiers.
[3] A little prayer enveloping some relic, and worn as a charm
about the person.
END OF VOL. I.
Transcriber's Note:
Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.
Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation in the original
document have been preserved.
*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A LADY'S TOUR IN
CORSICA, VOL. 1 (OF 2) ***
Euer getreuer
Janos-Laus, Ritter des Georgienordens 1.
Starr vor Staunen hatte die Wanze gelesen. Dem ist es noch
besser gegangen als mir, dachte sie.
Denn auch sie war in recht angenehmer Stellung gewesen. Als sie
in Berlin ausgepackt wurde, befand sie sich in der Wohnung der
ersten Hof-Opern-Sängerin. Es schien der Wanze ein Ort zu sein, wo
es sich leben lasse. Sie kroch still in ein reich mit Spitzen besetztes
Bett und hoffte, die reizende, zarte Italienerin, die sich im Zimmer
befand, möchte die Besitzerin des Bettes sein. Und ihre Hoffnung
betrog sie nicht.
Als sie in dunkler Nacht das süße Blut der Dame kostete,
durchrieselte sie ein langentbehrtes Gefühl. Italienerblut, das
geliebte, belebte sie. Sie vergaß der Vorsicht. Ein Lichtstrahl traf sie,
und: Wanze, rief eine helle Stimme in der Sprache ihrer Heimat,
denn auch die Italienerin grüßten durch das Tier italienische
Erinnerungen. Die Diva setzte die Wanze wieder sorgfältig unter die
Matratze ins Dunkle. Dort blieb sie und wurde dick und fett. Dennoch
packte sie das Heimweh, so daß sie sich nun auf der Reise nach der
Heimat befand. –
Die Sonne stand schon hoch am Himmel, und noch war kein Floh
zu sehen. Die Wanze wurde ungeduldig. Sie sah sich suchend um
und bemerkte ein Stück Zeitungspapier, in das ein reisender
Handwerksbursche seine Wurst gewickelt und weggeworfen haben
mußte, denn es waren Fettflecke darauf. Die Wanze begann aus
Langerweile darin zu lesen. Ihre Augen wurden größer und größer.
In dem Blatt stand gedruckt: Majestätsbeleidigung. Wieder wurde
das Verbrechen begangen, das in letzter Zeit unsere Polizei und
unsere Staatsanwälte ihrer kostbaren Zeit beraubt. Wir meinen die
Majestätsbeleidigung. Zum Glück trifft es diesmal nicht einen
Untertanen der Majestäten, sondern einen Italiener, aus bekannter,
sozialdemokratischer Familie, einen Floh, der seiner
verdammenswerten Gesinnung in den Worten Ausdruck gab: Blut ist
ein ganz besondrer Saft, die auf seinen Gürtel eingestickt waren.
Besagter Floh konnte sich – wie es zuging, ist uns durchaus
unbegreiflich – bis in die Gesellschaft einschleichen, welche die Ehre
hatte, mit einer hohen Persönlichkeit den Abend zu verbringen.
In gänzlich schamloser Weise rühmte sich der Angeklagte später
bei seinesgleichen, er habe das Blut des Kronprinzen getrunken, und
– darin bestand eben die Ruchlosigkeit – es habe ihm nicht besser
geschmeckt als anderes auch.
Für diese Beleidigung eines hohen Herrn wurde der Angeklagte zu
vier Jahren Zuchthaus verurteilt, was jeden treuen Untertanen des
prinzlichen Hauses mit Genugtuung erfüllen muß.
So las die Wanze, und sie konnte nicht im Zweifel sein, daß es sich
um ihren Freund handle. Schmerzlich bewegt von seinem Schicksal
raffte sie sich auf und begab sich auf die Heimreise.
Oft gedachte sie des Janos-Laus am serbischen Hof und des
Flohes, der im Gefängnis, seiner Überzeugung treu, schmachtete.
Später hörte sie, daß er in einem Anfall von Wahnsinn sich auf den
Wärter gestürzt, und daß dieser ihn einfach zerdrückt habe. So
endete der hoffnungsvolle Sprößling einer für die gute Sache
begeisterten Familie.
Der Goldfasan
Die Türe des Hühnerhofes knarrte. Man schob ein goldenes Etwas
herein. Es flatterte herum, kreischte, beruhigte sich und sah sich um.
Es war ein Goldfasan.
Er überblickte die Hühner und Enten, die ihn verwundert
anstarrten, senkte hochmütig die Augenlider, hob den Schnabel und
sagte: »Ich bin ein Goldfasan!« Dann sah er sich um, welchen Effekt
seine Worte auf die Hühner gemacht hatten.
»Freut mich, Ihre Bekanntschaft zu machen!« sagte der Hahn im
Namen aller. »Ein aufgeblasener Kerl,« dachte er dabei.
»Ein recht gewöhnlicher Patron,« urteilte der Fasan über den
Hahn. Er ging langsam auf und ab, seine Schwanzfedern schleiften
auf der Erde, und seinen goldenen Kragen schob er unaufhörlich
nach vorn, erst nach links und dann nach rechts. Dann sah er sich
wieder um, was die Hühner wohl dazu sagten. Er konnte zufrieden
sein.
»Ein ausnehmend vornehmer Vogel,« sagte die Gelbe.
»Das ist etwas anderes als unser Hahn,« gluckste die
Graugesprenkelte.
»Du, sieht man, daß mein Kamm erfroren ist? Ist er blau?« fragte
ein großes, schwarzes Huhn mit riesigem Kamm.
»Nein,« sagte die Gelbe. Aber man sah es doch.
»Sieh, wie trübselig sich unser Hahn ausnimmt, den herrlichen,
goldenen Federn des Fasans gegenüber. Der muß reich sein.«
»Und vornehm!« sagte die Graugesprenkelte.
Ein sehr schönes, weißes Huhn mit großem, rotem Kamm
spazierte am Fasan vorbei. Es war des Hahns Lieblingshenne. Der
Goldene machte seine schönsten Bücklinge und schob den Kragen
unaufhörlich nach vorne, daß es gleißte und glänzte.
»Wie herrlich ist Ihr Gefieder, schöne Italienerin.«
»Bitte!« sagte sie und rauschte mit den Federn.
»Und welch herrliches Rot schmückt Ihren Kamm! Nie sah ich
dergleichen!« rief feurig der Goldfasan.
»Bitte!« gluckste verschämt das Huhn.
»Gehören Sie dem Hahn hier?« fragte der Goldfasan.
»Ja, bis jetzt!« sagte das Huhn. Des Goldfasans Kragen schnellte
nach vorn, er blies sich auf, er rasselte mit den Federn und
schüttelte sich. Er funkelte förmlich.
»Wenn ich Sie zu einem Gang durch die Wiesen einladen dürfte?«
fragte er.
»Ach bitte, ja!« gackerte schmelzend das Huhn. Sie gingen. Durch
das hohe Gras glänzte es golden und schimmerte es weiß. Der ganze
Hühnerhof sah den beiden nach.
»Es hört einfach alles auf,« sagte eine behäbige Henne mit zehn
schwarzen Kücken, »einfach alles!«
»Und begreifst du, daß er unter allen gerade die Weiße
ausgewählt hat? Das dumme Ding, fade wie Bohnenstroh?« fragte
ein junges, schwarzes Hühnchen.
»Aber schneeweiß!«
»Schneeweiß! Dem Hahn gefällt schwarz besser!«
»Was willst du denn mehr? Oder hätte der Goldene dort auch
schwarz schöner finden sollen?«
Der Hahn stand auf dem Mist und scharrte Körner heraus und
Regenwürmer für seine Hühner. Er krähte laut und schmetternd, daß
man es über zwei Wiesen hören konnte. Stolz überflogen seine
Augen seine wohlgenährte und wohlgehütete Schar.
»Hahn! Du solltest auch so glänzende Federn haben,« sagte eines
der Hühner und betrachtete geringschätzig die schöngebogenen,
grünen Sicheln des Hahns.
»Und einen bronzenen Rücken!« kritisierte ein zweites.
»Und einen goldenen Kragen!« piepste das junge Hühnchen.
»Ich bin, wie ich bin,« sagte der Hahn. »Wer fort will, kann
gehen.«
»Sei nur nicht gleich so grob,« schalt das graugesprenkelte Huhn,
das vorhin dem Goldfasan zugehört hatte, als er mit dem weißen
Huhn sprach, »wir wollen uns das nicht gefallen lassen.«
Das schneeweiße Huhn kam zurück mit seinem Begleiter. Die
ganze Hühnergesellschaft umstand den glänzenden Vogel und
bewunderte ihn.
Gravitätisch kam der Hahn geschritten.
»Fasan! Das weiße Huhn gehört zu mir. Du mußt mit mir darum
kämpfen.« Der Fasan war kein Feigling. Er blähte sich und stellte
sich in Positur.
Lange standen sie so, Auge in Auge, den Hals gestreckt, die
Sporen bereit. Dann schossen sie aufeinander los und hackten sich
mit den Schnäbeln. Und plötzlich standen sie wieder unbeweglich
einander gegenüber.
Goldene und grüne Federn flogen herum, und goldene und grüne
Federn lagen auf der Erde um die zwei Kämpfer.
Leise gackernd und glucksend standen die Hühner im Kreise
herum. Die Schneeweiße tat, als gehe sie die Sache nichts an. Sie
zerhackte einen Regenwurm und schielte dabei unter ihrem Kamm
hervor nach Hahn und Fasan.
Plötzlich ertönte ein sonderbarer, krähender Schrei, der Hahn
taumelte, kreischte, flatterte und lag auf der Erde. Blut lief über die
Federn des Halses und färbte sie dunkelrot. Der Verwundete zuckte,
schlug mit den Flügeln und wurde still. Dann schnappte er nach Luft
und war tot.
Es erhob sich ein großes Gegacker, ein Wehklagen und Jammern
und Piepsen.
»Wer sucht uns nun die Käfer? Und die guten, zarten
Regenwürmer? Wer beschützt uns vor dem Habicht? Wer? Wer?«
»Ich bin nun euer Beschützer,« sagte der Goldfasan, und die
Hühner gaben sich zufrieden.
Das Schneeweiße stand neben ihm und strich zärtlich eine Feder
glatt an seinem goldenen Halskragen.
»Ich liebe dich ewig,« sagte der Goldfasan zu ihr. Das italienische
Huhn schloß die Augen vor Glück.
Am nächsten Tag war der Goldfasan verschwunden.
Die Hühner saßen ganz verstört auf dem Mist und sahen hinüber
in den Nachbarshof, wo unter Fasan und bronzenen Puten der
Goldfasan herumspazierte, ohne auch nur einmal den Hals nach der
verlassenen Schar zu drehen.
Die Schneeweiße flog auf den Zaun, sah sehnsüchtig hinüber und
gluckste.
Der Fasan sah sie, senkte die Lider, hob den Schnabel und schob
seinen Kragen vor. Dann ging er mit seiner goldenen Gefährtin
weiter.
Lautlos saß das arme Weiße auf dem Zaun. Dann streckte es den
Kopf unter die Flügel und rührte sich nicht mehr.
Dicht zusammengedrängt stand die verwaiste Hühnerschar. Dann
sagte eine: »Wenn wir doch unsern Hahn wieder hätten!«
»Ja,« sagte die Graugesprenkelte, »nun können wir unsere
Regenwürmer selber suchen!« Und eifrig begannen sie alle zu
scharren.
Vom Huhn, das etwas gelernt hatte
Ein schönes, fremdes Huhn hatte sich auf einen Hühnerhof verirrt
und suchte nach Nahrung.
Es hatte glänzende Federn und silberne Ringe an den Beinen. Es
lebte mit seiner Familie bei einer Künstlertruppe und verstand zu
apportieren, sich auf Kommando tot zu stellen und über sein eigenes
Ei zu hüpfen, rückwärts und vorwärts, und Purzelbäume zu machen.
Und das war sein Hauptkunststück. Jetzt stand es in einer Ecke und
pickte Körner auf.
»Was ist das für ein auffallendes Geschöpf?« fragte die dicke,
graue Henne den Hahn.
»Sie hat ja silberne Ringe an den Füßen. Woher hat sie die?«
forschte die braun und weiße, die lange Federn an den Beinen hatte.
»Ich weiß es nicht,« sagte der Hahn, »aber sie gefällt mir.«
»Natürlich!« gluckste geringschätzig die graue. »Dir gefällt alles
Neue.«
»Das Alte auch,« sagte höflich der Hahn und verbeugte sich.
Inzwischen saßen die anderen Hühner um die Fremde herum und
forschten sie aus über Heimat und Familie.
»Ich trete in einem Zirkus auf. Ich habe allerlei gelernt,« erzählte
harmlos das Huhn, und beschrieb, was es für Kunststücke machen
könne. Da erhob sich ein ungeheures Gegacker. Ein paar der Hennen
flohen, einige gingen vorsichtig um die Fremde herum, um sie nicht
zu berühren, einige rannten nach ihren Kücken, um sie von ihr fern
zu halten und ein paar sahen sich um, was der Hahn dazu sage.
»Purzelbäume macht sie! Wie gräßlich!« gackerte ein mageres
Huhn, das als Eierlegerin berühmt war. »Das schickt sich ja aber gar
nicht.«
»Warum nicht?« fragte das Huhn.
»Darum nicht. Es ist gegen die Natur.«
»Was haben meine Purzelbäume mit der Natur zu tun?«
»Es ist einfach gegen die Natur! Wo kämen die Kücken und die
Hähne hin, wenn alle Hühner etwas lernen wollten?«
»O, behüte, da ist keine Gefahr,« sagte das fremde, schwarze
Huhn etwas pikiert.
Da fing eine Rouen-Ente zu schnattern an und mit den Flügeln zu
schlagen. Sie war ein Muster von Tüchtigkeit, eine große Eierlegerin
und Führerin der Jugend, und genoß viel Ansehen.
»Darf man fragen: Gehören Sie zu einem Hahn?«
»Natürlich!« sagte die Fremde. »Und zu einem schönen,
ausländischen.«
»Haben Sie Kücken?«
»Das will ich meinen. Und sie haben alle schon ihre Flügelchen
und Schwanzfedern.«
»Und dabei treten Sie auf? Und machen den Zuschauern
Kunststücke vor und daheim piepsen ihre Jungen, haben nichts zu
fressen, frieren und haben keinen, der auf sie achtet. Eine ganz
liederliche Mutter sind Sie, vor Ihnen kann man ja gar keine Achtung
haben und muß unsere jungen Hähne und Entlein vor Ihnen
warnen.« Das wurde aber dem fremden Huhn zu bunt.
»So! Und woher wissen Sie denn, daß ich meine Jungen
vernachlässige? Sehen Sie sich die Kücken einmal an. Aufgeweckt
und lustig und klug sehen sie in die Welt. Und fragen Sie meinen
Hahn, mit wem er am liebsten auf der Wiese spaziert, mit mir oder
den anderen Hühnern?«
Die Rouen-Ente wollte dazwischen schnattern, aber die Schwarze
kam ihr zuvor.
»Und fragen Sie den Ihren, warum er immer neue Hühner haben
muß. Die seinen sind schön genug, man kann kaum schönere
finden. Weil ihr Enten und Hühner alle tötlich langweilig seid, und
man es auf die Dauer mit euch gar nicht aushalten kann, darum!«
Da drangen sämtliche Hühner und Enten auf das schwarze Huhn
ein, und zwickten es und rissen ihm die Federn aus und gackelten
und kreischten.
»Laßt sie in Ruh,« krähte der Hahn. »Das, was sie sagt, ist wahr.«
»Wahr!« kreischten die Hühner. »Ist das nun unser Dank!«
»Und wie haben wir dich geliebt!« gackelte jammernd die Graue.
»Sie liebt ihren Hahn auch,« sagte der Hahn.
»Und wie eifrig haben wir dir Eier gelegt,« beklagten sich ein paar
andere.
»Das hat sie auch getan.«
»Und wie viele Kücken haben wir dir geschenkt,« prahlte eine
große, gelbe Henne mit sieben Jungen.
»Sie hat deren neun.«
»Ja,« lärmten die Hühner durcheinander, »aber wie werden sie
aussehen! Mager und verrupft und mit nackten Hälsen. Und zum
Schluß frißt sie Katze und Habicht, denn wer paßt auf sie auf?«
Da piepste es draußen vor dem Hühnerhof aus vielen kleinen
Kehlen und neun kugelrunde, glänzende, zierliche Kücken liefen vor
dem Holzgitter herum.
Als das schwarze Huhn sie sah, flog es mit lautem
Freudengegacker auf sie zu. Die Kücken rannten um das Huhn
herum, flogen ihm auf Kopf und Hals, krochen unter seine Flügel
und wieder hervor und piepsten seelenvergnügt und freuten sich.
Oben auf dem Zaun aber standen sämtliche Hühner des Hofes und
unten guckten die Enten durch das Gitter.
»Und wie gefallen euch meine Kücken?« rief das schwarze Huhn.
Es bekam keine Antwort, aber an dem Tag mußte der Hahn
sämtliche Regenwürmer selber essen. Er machte sich aber nichts
daraus.
Er und Sie
Finis