ToksKnits
ZURI CARDIGAN
Sizes: XXS (XS) S (M) L (XL) 2XL (3XL) 4XL (5XL) 6XL
Finished Bust: 106 (110) 115 (120) 126 (136) 140 (145) 155 (163) 168 cm / 42½ (44) 46 (48) 50½ (54½) 56 (58)
62 (65) 67 inches
Length: 60 (60) 60 (60) 60 (60) 63 (63) 63 (64) 64 cm / 24 (24) 24 (24) 24 (24) 25 (25) 25 (25½) 25½
inches measured mid-back excl. neck edge
Suggested Needles: 4.5mm (US7) and 4mm (US6) 40, 80 or 100 cm /16, 32 or 40 inches and 3mm (US2.5) 80 or 100
cm / 32 or 40 inches circular needles and 3mm (US2.5) double pointed needles or suitable
needle size to obtain gauge.
Gauge: 18 sts x 27 rows in stockinette stitch on 4.5mm (US7) needles = 10 x 10 cm or 4 x 4 inches
Materials: 450 (450) 450 (500) 500 (500-550) 550 (600) 600 (650) 650 g Onling No 3 (50 g = 133 m or 145
yds) held together with 125 (125) 125 (150) 150 (150-175) 175 (200) 200 (200) 200 g Onling No
10 (25 g = 210 m or 230 yds) OR 500 (500) 500 (550) 550 (550-600) 600 (650) 650 (700) 700 g
Gepard Pura Lana (50 g =115 m or 126 yds) held together with 100 (100) 100 (100) 100 (100-
125) 125 (150) 150 (150) 150 g Gepard Cashmere Lace (25 g = 330 m or 350 yds) 4 buttons (22-
23mm)
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XXS XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL 5XL 6XL
a. Bust 106 cm 110 cm 115 cm 120 cm 126 cm 136 cm 140 cm 145 cm 155 cm 163 cm 168 cm
circumference 42½ in 44 in 46 in 48 in 50½ in 54½ in 56 in 58 in 62 in 65 in 67 in
b. Length
60 cm 60 cm 60 cm 60 cm 60 cm 60 cm 63 cm 63 cm 63 cm 64 cm 64 cm
(measured mid
24 in 24 in 24 in 24 in 24 in 24 in 25 in 25 in 25 in 25½ in 25½ in
back)
c. Inner sleeve 44 cm 44 cm 44 cm 44 cm 44 cm 44 cm 42 cm 42cm 42 cm 42 cm 42 cm
length 17½ in 17½ in 17½ in 17½ in 17½ in 17½ in 16¾ in 16¾ in 16¾ in 16¾ in 16¾ in
d. Upper arm 40 cm 41 cm 42 cm 42 cm 44 cm 48 cm 48 cm 50 cm 50 cm 51 cm 51 cm
circumference 16 in 16¼ in 16¾ in 16¾ in 17½ in 19¼ in 19¼ in 20 in 20 in 20½ in 20½ in
e. Yoke 22 cm 22 cm 23 cm 24 cm 24 cm 25 cm 28 cm 28 cm 28 cm 29 cm 32 cm
depth/length 8½ in 8½ in 9 in 9½ in 9½ in 10 in 11¼ in 11¼ in 11¼ in 11¾ in 12½ in
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PATTERN
The Zuri cardigan is a top-down V-neck raglan cardigan with simple cable details in the yoke and ribbing.
First, stitches are cast on for the back and shaped with German short rows. Raglan increases and V neck increases
are worked to shape the yoke, while working cables in the raglan at the same time. After splitting for sleeves,
the body is worked back and forth in stockinette stitch. The sleeve stitches are knit in the round on shorter
circular needles or double pointed needles and the button band is worked in double knitting.
Sizing
The recommended ease for the Zuri cardigan is 28 cm / 11 inches of positive ease for the smaller sizes and
gradually less ease for the larger sizes. The measurements are designed to fit a bust circumference of 75-80 (80-
85) 85-90 (90-95) 95-100 (100-110) 110-120 (120-130) 130-140 (140-150) 150-160 cm / 29½-31½ (31½-33½)
33½-35½ (35½-37½) 37½-39½ (39½-43½) 43½-47½ (47½-51½) 51½-55 (55-59) 59-63 inches. If your bust
circumference is 90 cm (35½ inches), you should knit a size S with a finished bust circumference of 115 cm / 46
inches.
Abbreviations
BOR - beginning of round
k - knit
p - purl
st(s) - stitch (es)
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
Turn - Turn the work to work a German short row
sm - slip marker
pm - place marker
ssk- slip, slip, knit. Slip 2 stitches knitwise, insert the left needle into both stitches through the front and knit
both stitches through the back loop.
k2togtbl – knit 2 sts together through the back loop
k2tog - knit 2 stitches together
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M1L - make 1 left increase
M1R - make 1 right increase
sl1wyif – slip 1 stitch purlwise with the yarn in front
sl1wyib – slip 1 stitch purlwise with the yarn in back
Raglan Increases
The increases are worked either as left leaning or right leaning.
M1L (left leaning): Insert needle under the strand of yarn between the stitches from front to back. Knit this
stitch through the back loop.
M1R (right leaning): Insert needle under the strand of yarn between the stitches from back to front. Knit this
stitch through the front loop.
Cables
Cables are worked over 4 stitches on every 4th row or round and can either cross right (C4B) or cross left
(C4F). The cables are worked as:
C4B: Slip 2 sts to a cable needle and hold to back of work, k2 from the left needle, k2 from the cable needle.
C4F: Slip 2 sts to a cable needle and hold to front of work, k2 from the left needle, k2 from the cable needle.
German Short Rows:
German short rows are worked by making a ‘turn’ and slipping the first st on the left needle over to the right
needle and pulling the yarn over the stitch to create a double stitch. Whenever the pattern says ‘turn’, it
means you should work a short row.
Watch this tutorial on how to work short rows:
[Link]
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Yoke
Cast on 70 (70) 72 (74) 76 (76) 76 (78) 78 (78) 78 sts on 4.5 mm (US 7) 80 cm/ 32 inches circular needles using
a long tail cast on or your preferred method.
Place markers for the raglan as follows:
1 st (left front), place marker, 6 sts (raglan sts), place marker, 14 (14) 15 (15) 15 (15) 15 (15) 15 (15) 15 sts (left
sleeve), place marker, 6 sts (raglan sts), place marker, 16 (16) 16 (18) 20 (20) 20 (22) 22 (22) 22 sts (back),
place marker, 6 sts (raglan sts), place marker, 14 (14) 15 (15) 15 (15) 15 (15) 15 (15) 15 sts (right sleeve), place
marker, 6 sts (raglan sts), place marker, 1 st (right front).
Now work German short rows to shape the back.
Note - The raglan sts are worked as the sts appear.
Row 1 (WS): Purl to the last 15 sts. Turn.
Row 2 (RS): Knit to the next marker, M1R, p1, C4B, p1 (raglan sts), M1L, knit across back sts, M1R, p1, C4F,
p1 (raglan sts), M1L. Knit to the last 15 sts. Turn. (4 sts increased)
Row 3 (WS): Purl to 2 sts after the last short row turn. Turn. (work the raglan sts as sts appear).
Row 4 (RS): Knit to the next marker, M1R, p1, k4, p1 (raglan sts), M1L, knit across back sts,
M1R, p1, k1, p1 (raglan sts), M1L. Knit to 2 sts after the last short row turn. Turn.
(4 sts increased)
Row 5 (WS): Repeat Row 3.
Row 6 (RS): Knit to the next marker, M1R, p1, C4B, p1 (raglan sts), M1L, knit across back sts,
M1R, p1, C4F, p1 (raglan sts), M1L. Knit to 2 sts after the last short row turn. Turn. (4 sts
increased)
Row 7 (WS): Repeat Row 3.
Row 8 (RS): Repeat Row 4. (4 sts increased)
Work Rows 1 – 8 once.
A total of 16 sts have been increased and there are now 86 (86) 88 (90) 92 (92) 92 (94) 94 (94) 94 sts on the
needles.
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German short rows are now complete.
Distribution of sts:
1 st (left front), 6 sts (raglan sts), 18 (18) 19 (19) 19 (19) 19 (19) 19 (19) 19 sts (left sleeve), 6 sts (raglan sts), 24
(24) 24 (26) 28 (28) 28 (30) 30 (30) 30 sts (back), 6 sts (raglan sts), 18 (18) 19 (19) 19 (19) 19 (19) 19 (19) 19 sts
(right sleeve), 6 sts (raglan sts), 1 st (right front).
Work back and forth in stockinette stitch, while at the same time working raglan increases every other row,
cables in the raglan every 4th row and increases for the V-neck every 8th row. Change to longer circular
needles when necessary.
Row 1 (WS): Purl across all sts (work the raglan sts as sts appear)
Row 2 (RS): *knit to the next marker, M1R, p1, C4F, p1 (raglan sts), M1L, knit to the
next marker, M1R, p1, C4B, p1 (raglan sts), M1L* Repeat from * to * a total of 2 times.
Knit to the end of the row. (8 sts increased)
Row 3 (WS): Purl across all sts (work the raglan sts as sts appear)
Row 4 (RS): *knit to the next marker, M1R, p1, k4, p1 (raglan sts), M1L *. Repeat
from * to * a total of 4 times. (8 sts increased)
Row 5 (WS): Purl across all sts (work the raglan sts as sts appear)
Row 6 (RS): Repeat Row 2. (8 sts increased)
Row 7 (WS): Purl across all sts (work the raglan sts as sts appear)
Row 8 (RS): k1, M1L, *knit to the next marker, M1R, p1, k4, p1 (raglan sts), M1L *.
Repeat from * to * a total of 4 times. Knit to the last st, M1R, k1
(10 sts increased)
Work Rows 1-8 a total of 6 (6) 6 (6) 6 (7) 7 (7) 7 (7) 7 times. A total of 24 (24) 24 (24) 24 (28) 28 (28) 28 (28) 28
raglan increases have been worked on either side of the six raglan sts.
There are now 290 (290) 292 (294) 296 (330) 330 (332) 332 (332) 332 sts on the needles.
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Distribution of sts:
31 (31) 31 (31) 31 (36) 36 (36) 36 (36) 36 sts (left front), 6 sts (raglan sts), 66 (66) 67 (67) 67 (75) 75 (75) 75 (75)
75 sts (left sleeve), 6 sts (raglan sts), 72 (72) 72 (74) 76 (84) 84 (86) 86 (86) 86 sts (back), 6 sts (raglan sts), 66
(66) 67 (67) 67 (75) 75 (75) 75 (75) 75 sts (right sleeve), 6 sts (raglan sts), 31 (31) 31 (31) 31 (36) 36 (36) 36 (36)
36 sts (right front).
Now work increases ONLY on the body, while still working cables every 4th row in the raglan.
Row 1 (WS): Purl across all sts (work the raglan sts as sts appear)
Row 2 (RS): *knit to the next marker, M1R, p1, C4F, p1 (raglan sts), knit across sleeve sts to the next
marker, p1, C4B, p1 (raglan sts), M1L* Repeat from * to * a total of 2 times. Knit to the
end of the row. (4 sts increased)
Row 3 (WS): Purl across all sts (work the raglan sts as sts appear)
Row 4 (RS): *knit to the next marker, M1R, p1, k4, p1 (raglan sts), knit across sleeve
sts to the next marker, p1, k4, p1 (raglan sts), M1L* Repeat from * to * a
total of 2 times. (4 sts increased)
Row 5 (WS): Purl across all sts (work the raglan sts as sts appear)
Row 6 (RS): Repeat Row 2. (4 sts increased)
Row 7 (WS): Purl across all sts (work the raglan sts as sts appear)
Row 8 (RS): k1, M1L, *knit to the next marker, M1R, p1, k4, p1 (raglan sts), knit
across sleeve sts to the next marker, p1, k4, p1 (raglan sts), M1L*
Repeat from * to * a total of 2 times. Knit to the last st, M1R, k1
(6 sts increased)
Work Rows 1 - 8 once for all sizes.
Then work Rows 1-4 a total of 0 (0) 1 (2) 2 (2) 3 (3) 3 (4) 5 times
There are now 308 (308) 318 (328) 330 (364) 372 (374) 374 (382) 390 sts on the needles.
Purl across one row.
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Distribution of sts:
36 (36) 38 (40) 40 (45) 47 (47) 52 (54) 56 sts (left front), 6 sts (raglan sts), 66 (66) 67 (67) 67 (75) 75 (75) 75 (75)
75 sts (left sleeve), 6 sts (raglan sts), 80 (80) 84 (90) 92 (100) 104 (106) 114 (118) 122 sts (back), 6 sts (raglan
sts), 66 (66) 67 (67) 67 (75) 75 (75) 75 (75) 75 sts (right sleeve), 6 sts (raglan sts), 36 (36) 38 (40) 40 (45) 47 (47)
52 (54) 56 sts (right front).
Body
Divide the sts for the sleeves and the body while casting on sts for the underarm at the same time.
Knit 36 (36) 38 (40) 40 (45) 47 (47) 52 (54) 56 sts (left front), knit the raglan sts, place the next
66 (66) 67 (67) 67 (75) 75 (75) 75 (75) 75 sts on a stitch holder or scrap yarn (left sleeve), cast on 5 (8) 8 (9) 12
(12) 12 (15) 16 (18) 18 sts using the backwards loop method, knit the raglan sts, Knit 80 (80) 84 (90) 92 (100)
104 (106) 114 (118) 122 sts (back), knit the raglan sts, place the next 66 (66) 67 (67) 67 (75) 75 (75) 75 (75) 75
sts on a stitch holder or scrap yarn (right sleeve), cast on on 5 (8) 8 (9) 12 (12) 12 (15) 16 (18) 18 sts using the
backwards loop method, knit the raglan sts, knit 36 (36) 38 (40) 40 (45) 47 (47) 52 (54) 56 sts (right front)
There are now 186 (192) 200 (212) 220 (238) 246 (254) 274 (286) 294 sts on the needles.
Work back and forth in stockinette stitch until the work measures 52 (52) 52 (52) 52 (52) 55 (55) 55 (56) 56 cm
/ 21 (21) 21 (21) 21 (21) 22 (22) 22 (23½) 23½ inches measured mid-back.
On the last RS row, knit across all sts, while also increasing 2 (2) 0 (0) 4 (4) 2 (0) 4 (4) 2 sts evenly across the
round. Increases are worked as M1L increase.
There are now 188 (194) 200 (212) 224 (242) 248 (254) 278 (290) 296 sts on the needles.
You can choose to work either C4B or C4F cables before the ribbing.
Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): k2, *C4B or C4F, p2* Repeat from * to * to the last 6 sts, C4B or C4F, k2.
Rows 2 (WS): p6, *k2, p4* Repeat from * to * to the last 6 sts, p6.
Row 3 (RS): Work across the row as sts appear.
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Row 4 (WS): Work across the row as sts appear.
Work Row 1-4 a total of 3 times, then work Row 1 once.
Change to 4 mm (US 6) needles and work in 1x1 ribbing for 3 cm / 1 inch.
Note - Work a K2tog somewhere on the first row to get an odd number of sts.
Row 1 (WS): *p1, k1*, repeat from * to * to the last st, p1.
Row 2 (RS): *k1, p1*, repeat from * to * to the last st, k1
End on a WS row.
Work 2 rows of double knitting before binding off using the Italian bind-off technique as follows:
Row 1 (RS): *k1, sl1wyif*, repeat from * to * to the last st, k1.
Row 2 (WS): *sl1wyif, k1*, repeat from * to * to the last st, sl1wyif.
Bind off using the Italian bind off technique.
SLEEVES
The sleeves are worked in the round on 4.5 mm (US 7) and 4mm (US 6) 40 cm / 16 inches circular needles,
double-pointed needles or on a longer circular needle with the Magic Loop method.
Place the sts on hold for one sleeve back on the needles. Pick up and knit the 5 (8) 8 (9) 12 (12) 12 (15) 16 (18)
18 sts that were cast on at the underarm. There are now 73 (74) 75 (76) 79 (87) 87 (90) 91 (93) 93 sts on the
needles. Place a BOR beginning of round marker in the middle of the underarm stitches.
Work in the round in stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 34 (34) 34 (34) 34 (34) 32 (32) 32 (32) 32 cm
/ 13½ (13½) 13½ (13½) 13½ (13½) 12½ (12½) 12½ (12½) 12½ inches, measured from the underarm, while
working decreases every 14th (12th) 12th (11th) 9th (8th) 8th (7th) 7th (7th) 7th round for a total of 6 (7) 7 (8)
9 (10) 10 (11) 11 (12) 12 times.
The decrease rounds are worked as: k1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts on the needles, SSK, k1 (2 sts decreased)
Tip – Try on the sleeves as you go to ensure it’s the right length.
Knit one round while decreasing another 1 (0) 1 (0) 1 (1) 1 (2) 3 (3) 3 sts evenly across the round.
There are now 60 (60) 60 (60) 60 (66) 66 (66) 66 (66) 66 sts on the needles.
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Note that on the sleeves, you’re working C4B cables on the right sleeve and C4F cables on the left sleeve.
Round 1: *C4B or C4F, p2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the round
Rounds 2 – 4: *k4, p2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the round.
Work Rounds 1-4 a total of 3 times, then work Round 1 once.
Change to 4 mm (US 6) needles and work in 1x 1 ribbing (k1, p1) for 3 cm / 1 inch.
Work 2 rounds of double knitting before binding off using the Italian bind-off technique as follows:
Round 1: *k1, sl1wyif*, repeat from * to * to the end of round
Round 2: *sl1wyib, p1*, repeat from * to * to the end of round
Bind off using the Italian bind off technique
Work the second sleeve the same way.
BUTTONBAND
The button band is worked in double knitting along the sides of the cardigan on 3mm (US2.5) 100 cm / 40
inches circular needles.
Pick up and knit 1 stitch in every row along the cardigan, starting from the bottom right corner, all the way to
the other end on the left side.
Break the yarn.
Place 4 stitch markers to mark the buttonholes along the right front edge of the cardigan. Place the first
marker 10 sts from the bottom edge of the ribbing and place the top buttonhole stitch marker approx. 1 cm /
½ inch below the last increase for the V-neck on the yoke. The 2 center buttonhole stitch markers are placed
between the top and bottom buttonholes with an equal number of sts between each.
(measure the space in between to determine where to place them)
Join new yarn starting from the right corner and cast on 14 new sts in extension of the picked up sts on the
needle using the Italian cast-on technique and starting with a purl stitch from the WS.
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Watch this tutorial on how to work the double knitting:
[Link]
Work in double knitting as follows:
Row 1 (RS): *sl1wyif, k1* Repeat from * to * a total of 6 times, sl1wyif , k2tog tbl
Row 2 (WS): *sl1wyif, k1* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Work Rows 1-2 until you get to the first stitch marker that marks the first buttonhole.
Work the buttonhole as follows:
Row 1 (RS): *sl1wyif, k1* Repeat from * to * a total of 3 times. Turn
Row 2 (WS): Repeat Row 1
Row 3 (RS): Repeat Row 1
Row 4 (WS): Repeat Row 1
Row 5 (RS): *sl1wyif, k1* Repeat from * to * a total of 3 times, yarn over, Repeat from * to *
a total of 3 times, sl1wyif, k2tog tbl. Turn
Row 6 (WS): *sl1wyif, k1* Repeat from * to * a total of 3 times, sl1wyif, slip the knit stitch
knit-wise, slip the yarn over knit-wise, place the yarn over and the stitch back on the left needle
and knit them together through the back loop, insert the left needle under the strand that runs
between two stitches from front to back to create a new yarn over. Turn.
Row 7 (RS): *sl1wyif, k1* Repeat from * to * a total of 3 times, sl1wyif , k2tog tbl. Turn
Row 8 (WS): Repeat Row 6
Row 9 (RS): Repeat Row 7
Row 10 (WS): *sl1wyif, k1* Repeat from * to * a total of 3 times, sl1wyif, slip the knit stitch
knit-wise, slip the yarn over knit-wise, place the yarn over and the stitch back on the left needle
and knit them together tbl. *sl1wyif, k1* to the end of the row.
Watch this tutorial on how to work the buttonholes:
[Link]
Continue with double knitting and buttonhole shaping until all 4 buttonholes have been worked. Then work
the rest of the button band in double knitting until there are 14 sts left on the needle.
Bind off using the Italian bind off technique.
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Finishing
Sew on 4 buttons (22-23 mm) along the left side of the button band across from the buttonholes.
Weave in all ends.
Watch this tutorial on how to sew buttons:
[Link]
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This pattern is for private use only. This pattern may not be sold, copied, or redistributed.
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[Link]/ // Instagram: @toksknits
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