Vine Colorwork Crochet Sock –
Free Pattern
ByBriana Kepner Published On: February 2, 2022 Updated
On: August 19, 2025
How about stepping up our crochet sock game with the Vine
Colorwork Crochet Sock! This crochet pattern has a video tutorial to
help you through those important steps. These may look knit, but I
assure you, they are crochet.
Table of Contents
Special Stitches:
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. Please read my
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disclosure for more info.
If this is your first time making socks, and the colorwork feels
intimidating, first try the Simple and Best Crochet Sock Pattern. I’ve
spent months working on this sock and the instructions to get the
best fit. I’ve also written a detailed post on socks, with a free
printable sock size chart, check out How To Size Crochet Socks
Continue reading on this post for the free crochet pattern, or
purchase the downloadable pdf on Etsy or Ravelry.
Want to work with a sock in bulky weight yarn? I’ve got the quick &
easy Bulky Crochet Socks that are just for you. Or check out this
roundup on crochet & knit toe up socks.
Can’t get enough of the crocheted knit-purl stitch? Check out these
patterns:
Crochet Knit Purl Free Pillow Pattern
Crochet Knit Purl Free Hat Pattern
Men’s Crochet Tie Free Pattern
What Are The Benefits Of Stranded Crochet Colorwork?
We want our socks to be colorful and feel great on our feet. When
we are working two colors of yarn at one time, it will make our work
a little bit thicker by nature. But to keep that flexibility in the fabric,
it’s best to work our crochet colorwork with the fair isle, or stranded
technique.
What this means is we will not be working over our yarn all the time.
We will be ‘floating’ it on the back of our work which helps keep the
fabric less stiff. It’s really easy to do, and we can also catch our
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floats as we go so there isn’t anything big enough to catch our toes
as we put them in the sock. To read more about the different ways of
doing colorwork visit Ways To Colorwork In Crochet.
Why Is A Nylon Blend Sock Great For Socks?
It’s really important to pick the right yarn when making a sock. We
want it to last a long time and hold up to a lot of wear. And why
wouldn’t we? If we spend time creating the sock, we want to get the
most out of it.
Nylon is a strong and versatile fiber, it can hold up to some abuse.
It’s also highly elastic so perfect for stretching something over our
heel but will bounce back to stay in place. It’s perfect when blended
with other fibers to add that strength and flexibility.
I’ve really enjoyed working with WeCrochet Stroll for these socks.
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With its blend of merino wool and nylon, it’s the perfect stretch for
socks. This yarn line also comes in a twee, which I loved using for
the blue pair of socks. These socks also look great in other options
of yarns and colors too. Here are some substitutes I recommend:
Stroll Tonal (75% Fine Superwash Merino Wool, 25% Nylon)
Hawthrone Kettle Dye (80% Fine Superwash Highland Wool, 20%
Nylon Fingering)
Hawthorne Speckle (80% Fine Superwash Highland Wool, 20%
Nylon, Fingering)
And for those who might be allergic to wool try:
Comfy Fingering (75% Pima Cotton, 25% Acrylic Fingering)
Supplies for the Crochet Sock:
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Dots Crochet Hooks
Clover Crochet Hooks
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Ommi Crochet Hooks
Divit Shilp Crochet Hooks
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Tulip Crochet Hook
Mosaic Crochet Hooks
Crochet Hook:
Size 3.5mm & 2.5mm Hooks, or hook to obtain gauge
Notions:
2 Removable stitch markers if needed
Yarn needle to weave in ends
Scissors
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Yarn:
WeCrochet Stroll Fingering
75% Fine Superwash Merino Wool, 25% Nylon, 231 yds/100g
Colorways: Treasure (Color A), Rainstorm Heather (Color B)
Also shown in Stroll Tweed North Pole Heather (Color A) and
Midnight Heather (Color B)
Yardage:
Mid Calf Socks 375yds/343m) -2 Skeins of main color, 1 Skein of
contrast color
Abbreviations/Stitches:
blo – back loop only
ch – chain
est st pat – established stitch pattern
rnd – round
sc – single crochet
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ssc – split single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
Gauge:
20 sts x 25 rows = 4×4 inches in established stitch pattern, see
notes.
The stitches per inch is 5
Skill Level:
Intermediate Sock
Size:
This sock is meant to be crocheted for a custom fit to your foot. This
sock can be tried on and adjusted as you go.
Instructions are for adult women’s sizes. The chart below is for
referencing sock lengths for different sizes.
Want an Ad-Free PDF Download of this pattern?
This pattern is available in my shops:
Notes:
Since this is worked continuously, it is helpful to place a stitch
marker on the first stitch of each row.
These crochet socks use a fun stitch combination and are worked
from toe-up. The heel is an ‘afterthought heel’ where we create an
opening for the heel area and come back to work the heel last.
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Special Stitches:
The established stitch pattern (est. st pat) is worked across an even
number of stitches as follows: sc 1 in the blo, ssc next; repeat for
number of stitches needed.
Split Single Crochet (ssc): also known as the waistcoat stitch.
This stitch is worked as single crochet but where the hook is
inserted is the only difference. The hook will be inserted between
the ‘V’ of the stitch.
Insert hook between the legs of the stitch (on the back of work the
hook should be under the horizontal bar and between the upside-
down ‘V’ shape as well), yarn over, pull up a loop to the height of a
single crochet, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook. Keep
your hands loose and comfortable. If your hands are starting to hurt,
then the tension of the stitch is too tight. When entering the stitch,
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pull up the loop a bit more than you normally would, it will give the
‘V’ more space for the next round and make working the ssc
comfortable.
How to Get A Custom Sock Fit:
This sock is meant to be crocheted for a custom fit to your foot. This
sock can be tried on and adjusted as you go. If trying on the sock is
not possible, or you are making these socks for a friend, measure
the foot to determine how many stitches/rows will be needed in
each section for the best fit. Each measurement below should be
taken while standing, except for C.
A: Circumference for Leg:
Measure the topmost part of your leg, the thickest part, and where
you would like the height of the sock.
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B: Height of Leg:
From where you took measurement A to the top of the heel.
C: Circumference of Foot:
Measure where your foot is thickest. The actual measurement of the
finished sock will be about 1/2 to 1 inch less than this measurement.
D: Instep:
Measure from the bottom of your toes to about 1 inch before the
heel.
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Learn More About Sizing Socks
Want to really dive into getting the best-sized sock? Head on over to
this post on How To Size Crochet Socks for even more information
including a FREE downloadable sock measurement chart.
Vine Colorwork Crochet Sock Video:
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Join The Kindest Community
Join our vibrant community of crafters on Facebook today. Whether
you enjoy crafting with others or simply have burning questions,
we’ve got you covered – join us now!
Briana K Community
Vine Crochet Sock Written Instructions
Toe of Sock and Instep
Rnd 1: Using 3.5 mm hook and Color A, working inside the Magic
Ring sc 8, pull ring closed, do not join as this will be worked
continuously. Place stitch marker in the first stitch and move up
each round. 8 Sts
Rnd 2: 2 ssc in each st around. 16 Sts
Rnd 3: ssc in each st around. 16 Sts
Rnd 4: 2 ssc in first st, ssc in next, *2 ssc in next, ssc in next*;
repeat from * to * around. 24 Sts
Rnd 5: ssc in each st around. If making a baby/child size skip to
round 10.24 Sts
Rnd 6: 2 ssc in first st, ssc in next 2 sts, *2 ssc in next, ssc in next 2
sts*; repeat from * to * around. 32 Sts
Rnd 7: ssc in each st around. For smaller foot circumferences
increasing may stop here, or increase less on the next round.32 Sts
Rnd 8: 2 ssc in first st, ssc in next 3 sts, *2 ssc in next, ssc in next 3
sts*; repeat from * to * around. 40 Sts
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Rnd 9: ssc in each st around. 40 Sts
Rnd 10: ssc in first, blo sc in next, *ssc in next, blo sc in next*;
repeat from * to * around. This round creates the established stitch
pattern. 40 Sts
Repeats: Repeat Round 10 until the sock reaches about 1 1/2”
from the heel, it’s best to try it on and add or remove rows if needed.
This creates the Instep, measurement D.
Please Note: This is a great time to customize the sock to your foot
size, this example is for a foot circumference of 8 inches.
Remember these will stretch a little as worn so it should be a little
snug, but if it starts to feel too tight add increases by placing 3ssc
into one stitch on each side. Don’t be afraid to change the stitch
count for your foot. 40 Sts
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I’m thrilled to share this amazing crochet pattern with you! Please
don’t copy, paste, or distribute this pattern. Prefer an ad-free
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my online stores. I appreciate your support and readership. You are
why I can keep doing what I love and sharing it with others. Thank
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you from the bottom of my heart.
Sock Gusset
Rnd 1
Please note: this gusset is following the stitch counts from the
example sock in the video, it’s okay if your gusset stitch count is
different. *3 ssc in first, work 19 sts in est st pat (or half the stitches
in the round)*; repeat from * to * around. 44 Sts
Rnd 2-3
Work est st pat in each st around. 44 Sts
Rnd 4
*3 ssc in first, work 21 sts in est st pat (or half the stitches in the
round) *; repeat from * to * around. 48 Sts
Rnd 5-6
Work in the est st pat around. It’s perfectly fine if your stitch count is
more or less, it simply needs to be an even number of stitches. 48
Sts
Slit the Sock for the Heel
Rnd 1:
This round will make space for the heel to work later. Ch 24 (or half
the stitch count), skip 24 (or half the stitch count), work the
remaining sts in est st pattern. 48 Sts
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Top of Sock & adjusting for different heights
Rnd 1-5:
Please Note: For the first round across the chain sts, sc sts will be
worked. If you have increased or decreased the number of stitches
in the instep, the total stitch count must either be in repeats of 6 or
8 stitches for the colorwork. Adjust the stitch count in this section if
needed. Continue to work in the established stitch pattern. 48 Sts
Tips For Colorwork:
When crocheting the colorwork, the yarn will be carried along the
back in the fair isle style. Try to not carry a color for more than 3
stitches so your floats aren’t too long. You can catch/trap the yarn
behind a stitch to keep the floats consistent.
To read more about colorwork please visit: Ways To Colorwork In
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Crochet
How to read the colorwork instructions:
In the colorwork section, Color A will be abbreviated as (A), and
Color B as (B). Example: (B) x 5 = with Color B ssc the next 5
stitches The chart will be worked from right to left for each round
and repeated until the end of the round.
8 Stitch Repeat for Colorwork – Written Instructions
The rest of the stitches for the colorwork portion will be
worked as SSC, not in the established stitch pattern. The
following instructions will be for an 8-stitch repeat.
Rnd 1:
(A) x 8
Rnd 2:
(A) x 4, (B) x 1, (A) x 3
Rnd 3:
(A) x 4, (B) x 1, (A) x 3
Rnd 4:
(A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 2
Rnd 5:
(A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1
Rnd 6:
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(A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1
Rnd 7:
(A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 1
Rnd 8:
(A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1
Rnd 9:
(A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 2
Rnd 10:
(A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1
Rnd 11:
(A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1
Rnd 12:
(A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 1
Rnd 13:
(A) x 4, (B) x 1, (A) x 3
Rnd 14:
(A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 2
Rnd 15:
(A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1
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Rnd 16:
(A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1
Rnd 17:
(A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 1
Rnd 18:
(A) x 4, (B) x 1, (A) x 3
Rnd 19:
(A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 2
Rnd 20:
(B) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 2
Rnd 21:
(A) x 8
Rnd 22:
(B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 3
Rnd 23:
(A) x 4, (B) x 1, (A) x 3
Rnd 24:
(B) x 1, (A) x 7
Rnd 25:
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(B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 3
8 Stitch Repeat for Colorwork – Chart Instructions
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6 Stitch Repeat for Colorwork – Written Instructions
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Rnd 1:
(A) x 6
Rnd 2:
(A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 2
Rnd 3:
(A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 2
Rnd 4:
(A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1
Rnd 5:
(A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2
Rnd 6:
(A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2
Rnd 7:
(A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1
Rnd 8:
(B) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2
Rnd 9:
(A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1
Rnd 10:
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(A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2
Rnd 11:
(A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2
Rnd 12:
(A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1
Rnd 13:
(A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 2
Rnd 14:
(A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1
Rnd 15:
(A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2
Rnd 16:
(A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2
Rnd 17:
(A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1
Rnd 18:
(A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 2
Rnd 19:
(A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1
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Rnd 20:
(B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1
Rnd 21:
(A) x 6
Rnd 22:
(B) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2
Rnd 23:
(A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 2
Rnd 24:
(B) x 1, (A) x 5
Rnd 25:
(B) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2
6 Stitch Repeat for Colorwork – Chart Instructions
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Ribbed Cuff
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For the ribbing go down to the 2.5mm hook.
Row 1:
Ch 11, sc BLO in the second ch from the hook, sc BLO in next 2 (9)
sts, sl st 2 sts from the top of the sock, turn. 10 Sts
Row 2:
Skip 2 sl sts from the sock top, sc BLO remaining in row, turn. 10 Sts
Row 3:
Ch 1, sc BLO across sts in row, sl st 2 sts from the top of the sock,
turn. 10 Sts
Repeats:
Repeat Row 2-3 all the way around the top of the sock to create the
ribbing. Either slip stitch in the blo of the last row to the loops of the
first row to join, or fasten off and seam with a tapestry needle. 10
Sts
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How to Crochet The Colorwork Sock Heel
Rnd 1:
Using the 3.5 mm crochet hook, attach yarn to one of the corner sts,
ssc in first, place marker in this stitch, ssc in each stitch across until
next corner (half of the heel sts), rotate and continue working in the
top of the heel sts, ssc in first and place st marker. ssc in remaining
sts. Chain + Skipped sts from Heel Split
Rnd 2:
*ssc in next, move up the st marker, ssc2tog, ssc until 2 sts before
next marker, ssc2tog*; repeat from * to * around. Decreased 4 sts
Repeats:
Repeat round 2 until 10-14 sts remain. Fasten off and seam
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remaining sts together.
Finishing the Crochet Sock
Weave in any remaining ends. If there are gaps by the heel split, use
tail ends to close the holes. If needed, block your socks by laying
them flat or using a sock blocker.
Well That Was Fun! What’s Next?
PIN THIS POST – Don’t lose this project; save it to your Pinterest
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SHARE – Share your yarn choice, in-progress, or finished
projects on Facebook or Instagram and use the hashtag
#brianakdesigns
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Community Group on Facebook. We love yarny friends!
RAVELRY LINK -Link and share your project on Ravelry. Having
inspirational photos can help crafters.
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