The document describes a cosmetic kit designed for lip enhancement, comprising a vasodilator for the lip surface and a vasoconstrictor for the lip periphery, aimed at creating fuller, emphasized lips. The kit addresses common issues with traditional lip cosmetics, such as drying and staining, and allows for self-application without the need for medical procedures. Additionally, the compositions may also be used for minimizing wrinkles and promoting wound healing, utilizing natural ingredients for better customer acceptance.
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Lip Enhancment Compound
The document describes a cosmetic kit designed for lip enhancement, comprising a vasodilator for the lip surface and a vasoconstrictor for the lip periphery, aimed at creating fuller, emphasized lips. The kit addresses common issues with traditional lip cosmetics, such as drying and staining, and allows for self-application without the need for medical procedures. Additionally, the compositions may also be used for minimizing wrinkles and promoting wound healing, utilizing natural ingredients for better customer acceptance.
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF or read online on Scribd
ca 02585293 2007-04-25
WO 2006/046025 PCT/GB2005/004120
Lip Enhancement compositions
The present invention relates to cosmetic kits and
components therefor as well as to a method of topical
cosmetic treatment using such kits for the emphasis of
the lips.
Full, red lips are seen as a sign of youth and health.
As the body grows older, the lips naturally fade and
shrink slightly. Thus for centuries efforts have been
made to recapture the effect of youth by colouring the
lips, e.g. with lipsticks or lip glosses, or more
recently by local injection or implantation of natural
or synthetic materials to protiuce lip enlargement.
Lip glosses and lipsticks however have two significant
drawbacks - the first is a drying of the lips which is
uncomfortable to the wearer - the second is the tendency
for lip contact to stain fabrics or leave smears on the
skin. Injections or implants involve the services of a
physician, are expensive, painful, non-reversible, and
sometimes the effect achieved is not precisely that
desired by the patient.
There is thus an ongoing need for cosmetics which can
achieve the effect of emphasizing the lips and which can
be self-applied.
We now propose a cosmetic kit comprising a first
composition containing a vasodilator for application to
the lip surface and a second composition containing a
vasoconstrictor for application to the periphery of the
lips; the combined effect of the two compositions is to
emphasize the lips by swelling the body of the lips
while tightening the skin around the rim of the lips.
Thus viewed from one aspéct the invention provides aca 02585293 2007-04-25
WO 2006/046025 PCT/GB2005/004120
a
cosmetic kit comprising: a first topical cosmetic
composition comprising a physiologically tolerable
vasodilator and at least one cosmetic carrier or
excipient; a second topical cosmetic composition
comprising a physiologically tolerable vasoconstrictor
and at least one cosmetic carrier or excipient;
optionally instructions for the application of said
compositions to the lips and lip periphery; and
optionally a container or support for said compositions.
Viewed from a further aspect the invention also provides
a topical cosmetic composition comprising a
physiologically tolerable vasodilator and at least one
cosmetic carrier or excipient, and instructions for the
application of said composition to the surface of the
lips in conjunction with the application to the
periphery of the lips of a further topical cosmetic
composition comprising a physiologically tolerable
vasoconstrictor.
Viewed from a still further aspect the invention
provides a topical cosmetic composition comprising a
physiologically tolerable vasoconstrictor and at least
one cosmetic carrier or excipient, instructions for the
application of said composition to the periphery of the
lips in conjunction with the application to the surface
of the lips of a further topical cosmetic composition
comprising a physiologically tolerable vasodilator.
Viewed from a yet further aspect the invention provides
a method of cosmetic treatment to emphasize the lips,
said method comprising applying to the surface of the
lips an effective amount of a physiologically tolerable
vasodilator and applying to the periphery of the lips an
effective amount of a physiologically tolerable
vasoconstrictor.cA 02585293 2007-04-25
WO 2006/046025 PCT/GB2005/004120
The vasodilator used according to the invention may be a
natural or synthetic material and may be a drug
substance or a naturally occurring material, e.g. a
plant extract or fragment. Most preferably it is a
natural plant extract or fragment (e.g. powdered plant
material). The use of natural materials in cosmetics,
especially materials which occur naturally in
foodstuffs, is particularly preferred as animal testing
may be avoided and as customer acceptability is high.
Examples of natural vasodilators include Astragalus
(Astragalus membranaeceus), Cayenne (Capsicum
frutescens), Gotu Kola - Indian Pennywort (Centella
asiatica), Cinnamon (Cinamomum verum), Coleus (Coleus
forskohlii), Hawthorn (Crataegus oxyacantha), Ginkgo
(Ginkgo biloba), Lavender (Lavanula officinalis),
Ginger, Prickly ash (Zanthoxylum americanum), Niacin,
Hawthorn berry, capsaicin, flavonoids (extractable from
most plants in particular flowers, leaves and berries,
for example rosemary leaves), and L-arginine, alcohol,
menthol. Examples of drug substances which have topical
vasodilatory effects include adenosine, glyceryl
trinitrate, nitroprussides, phentolamine, histamines,
prostaglandins and bradykinin. The use of capsaicin
(extractable from peppers) is especially preferred.
The vasodilator may typically be present in the
vasodilator composition at a concentration of 0.001 to
10% wt, especially 0.01 to 10% wt, particularly 0.1 to
2% wt.
The vasoconstrictor used according to the invention
likewise may be a natural or synthetic material and may
be a drug substance or a naturally occurring material,
e.g. a plant extract or fragment. Most preferably it is
a natural plant extract or fragment (e.g. powdered plant
material). Examples of natural vasoconstrictors include
Horse Chestmut, Aloe Vera, Marigold (Calendulaca 02585293 2007-04-25
WO 2006/046025 PCT/GB2005/004120
ae
Officinalis), German Chamomile (Chamomilla recutita),
Conchona (Cinchona), Lemon (Citrus limon), Myrrh
(Commiphora molmol), Meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria),
Liquorice (Glycyrrhiza), Witch Hazel (Hamamelidaceae),
White Peony (Paeonia lactiflora), Avocado (Perea
Americana), Chinese rhubarb (Rheum plamatum),
rosemarinic acid (extractable from Rosemary (Romarinus
officinalis)), White Willow (Salix alba), Sage (Salvia
officinalis), Comfrey (Symphytum officinale), Jambul
(Syzgium cumini), Nettle (Urtica dioica), Bilberry-
blueberry (Vaccinium myrtillus), Cramp Bark (Viburnum
opulus), and Butcher's Broom. Examples of drug
substances which have topical vasoconstrictory effects
include phenylephrine, naphazoline, tramazoline,
methoxamine, metaraminol, ephedrine, and vasopressin.
The use of witch hazel is particularly preferred.
The vasoconstrictor may typically be present in the
vasoconstrictor composition at a concentration of 0.01
to 10% wt, especially 0.05 to 2% wt.
The vasodilator is intended to be applied to the
majority of the exposed (i.e. external) lip surface,
excluding perhaps the outer periphery. It thus may take
any administration form suitable for this mode of
application, e.g. a stick, powder, cream, paste,
ointment, solution, suspension, dispersion, impregnated
fabric (e.g. a "wipe" or tissue), spray, etc.
Particularly suitably it is in impregnated fabric,
cream, lipstick, or liquid form, in the latter case
desirably presented in a container provided with an
applicator, for example a brush or absorbent pad. The
composition may contain other cosmetic components, for
example carriers (e.g. fabric or solvent), colorants,
moisturizers, oils, waxes, pH modifiers, aromas,
reflectants (e.g. light reflecting particles), fillers,
etc. Particularly desirably it will contain an alpha-ca 02585293 2007-04-25
WO 2006/046025 PCT/GB2005/004120
hydroxy acid (i.e. a cosmetic component known to plumpen
and £ill out the skin by causing moisture retention) .
Examples of suitable alpha hydroxy acids include
glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid,
alpha-hydroxyethanoic acid, alpha-hydroxyoctanoic acid,
and alpha-hydroxycaprylic acid, in particular glycolic
and malic acids.
If desired, the vasodilator may wholly or partially be
in sustained release form, e.g. dissolved or dispersed
in a persistent ointment, or encapsulated in liposomes
or absorbed into porous or hollow particulate carriers,
for example particles of porous silica or other
essentially inert materials, typically particles having
a mode particle size of the order of 1 to 10 pm.
Especially desirably, all components in the vasodilator
composition are naturally occurring organic or inorganic
materials, especially plant components, fragments,
extracts, or fermentation or digestion products.
Particularly preferably the composition is free of
colorants (the vasodilator itsel€ by increasing blood
flow to the lip surface will have the effect of making
the lips appear more red).
If desired, physiologically tolerable strontium
compounds, e.g. strontium chloride, which applied
topically combat dermal irritation and subdermal pain,
may be included in the vasodilator compositions.
If desired the vasodilator composition may contain mint
oil or a local anaesthetic to reduce any sensation
perceived by the user.
The vasoconstrictor composition likewise may take any
administration form suitable for application to the
periphery of the lips, e.g. sticks, pencils, liquids,ca 02585293 2007-04-25
WO 2006/046025 PCT/GB2005/004120
~6-
etc. Particularly desirably it is presented in a form
which allows a relatively narrow line of composition,
e.g. 0.5 to 3 mm wide, to be applied. To this end the
composition is preferably presented as a stick or pencil
or as a liquid in a container provided with an
applicator, for example a brush or absorbent pad. again
the composition may contain further optional ingredients
of the type mentioned above in relation to the
vasodilator composition; and again it is preferred that
the composition is colorant-free and that it contains
only natural components. Once again the composition may
if desired contain the vasoconstrictor wholly or partly
in sustained release form.
The vasodilator, where used on the lips, is preferably
one having a symmetric action, or, if asymmetric one
which counteracts a prevailing asymmetry in lip
engorgement .
The vasoconstrictor may, if desired, be applied only to
the periphery of the lips, e.g. to delineate the lips
before the vasodilator is applied.
In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention,
the vasoconstrictor is applied to a surface area greater
than that in which a constriction of the skin is
desired, and in particular it may be applied, preferably
before the vasodilator, to the region in which an
engorgement of the skin is desired. Thus, the
vasoconstrictor may suitably be applied as a general
wash or smear over substantially the entire external lip
surface (or other treated surface, e.g. as discussed
below). In this way a synergy between the
vasoconstrictor and vasodilator may result in an
enhanced skin engorgement or blood flow enhancement in
the regions where both are applied.ca 02585293 2007-04-25
WO 2006/046025 PCT/GB2005/004120
=
Especially preferably the vasodilator is capsaicin and
the vasoconstrictor is witch hazel.
The vasoconstrictor is conveniently 50:50 by volume
lemon juice and distilled witch hazel solution BPC. The
vasodilator is conveniently 100 mg niacin dissolved in
0.5 mL olive oil with 1 mL menthol oil (Japanese oil of
peppermint) added together with 1 mb hawthorn berry
extract (2 g/ml in ethanal) and 1 mb 0.00178 wt.
capsaicin. This may be mixed with honey and petroleum
jelly, e.g. about 1 g of each, and mixed thoroughly.
The components conventionally used in cosmetics for
application to the lips and facial skin are well known
in the art and do not require further discussion here.
The compositions are desirably packaged in kit form with
an external container or case containing separate
containers containing the two compositions and a printed
form or label setting forth instructions for the
application of the two compositions to the lips. In one
preferred embodiment a single container or support
contains both compositions, e.g. in the form of a two-
ended lip pencil or combined lipstick/lip pencil.
The effect of the compositions is a lip emphasis which
can last for many hours, e.g. at least 5 hours,
preferably at least 8 hours.
The vasodilator composition of the invention may also,
if desired, be used as a cheek blusher. This use is
also deemed to form part of the present invention.
A further aspect of the invention is the use of a
composition containing a vasodilator to minimize the
appearance of wrinkles or fine lines on the skin's
surface, optionally in conjunction with a compositionca 02585293 2007-04-25
WO 2006/046025 PCT/GB2005/004120
containing a vasoconstrictor. Vasodilation will cause
an increase in blood flow which would cause tissue
swelling. The use of a combination of vasodilator and
vasoconstrictor allows a selective increase and decrease
in blood flow to defined regions and thus minimizes the
appearance of wrinkles.
Thus, viewed from a further aspect the invention
provides a cosmetic kit comprising: a first topical
cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically
tolerable vasodilator and at least one cosmetic carrier
or excipient; a second topical cosmetic composition
comprising a physiologically tolerable vasoconstrictor
and at least one cosmetic carrier or excipient
optionally instructions for the application of said
compositions to areas affected by wrinkles; and
optionally a container or support for said compositions.
Viewed from a further aspect the invention also provides
a topical cosmetic composition comprising a
physiologically tolerable vasodilator and at least one
cosmetic carrier or excipient, and instructions for the
application of said composition to the surface of the
skin optionally in conjunction with the application of a
further topical cosmetic composition comprising a
physiologically tolerable vasoconstrictor to a defined
region.
Viewed from a yet further aspect the invention provides
a method of cosmetic treatment to lessen the appearance
of wrinkles, said method comprising applying to the
surface of the skin an effective amount of a
physiologically tolerable vasodilator and optionally
applying to a defined region an effective amount of a
physiologically tolerable vasoconstrictor.
In the above embodiments, the use of vasodilator aloneca 02585293 2007-04-25
WO 2006/046025 PCT/GB2005/004120
is preferred for use on fine lines on the skin's
surface, whereas the combination of vasodilator and
vasoconstrictor may be preferred to minimize the
appearance of deeper wrinkles. In the latter case, the
vasodilator composition may be applied to, and around,
the area of the wrinkles, whereas the vasoconstrictor
composition may be applied to regions where blood flow
is desired to be decreased e.g. around the edge of
wrinkles to even out the skin's surface. The use need
not be limited to wrinkles, the effect of a non-surgical
"face-lift" could be achieved by applying
vasoconstrictor and/or vasodilator to certain areas of
the face.
The compositions of the invention are also suitable for
treatment of wounds as they may promote blood flow in a
manner that will optimise the likelihood that healing
will occur and particularly after debridement (physical
removal of dead and decaying tissue - including biofilm
- from in and around the wound). Thus a further aspect
of the present invention provides a formulation for the
prevention of the formation of chronic wounds and ulcers
(i.e. used as first signs appear or even as a
preventative measure before first signs appear) or for
the promotion of the healing of wounds before or after
they become chronic.
This could be undertaken in any of the following ways or
combinations of ways:
a) by application directly to the potential wound site
b) by application directly to the wound perhaps in
combination with other beneficial agents such as an
antimicrobial/antibio-film agent in a formulation
that would maintain an optimum healing environment
c) by application around the wound site.ca 02585293 2007-04-25
WO 2006/046025 PCT/GB2005/004120
A further use for the compositions of the invention is
the alleviation of the symptoms of circulatory
disorders, especially Raynaud's disease. Sufferers of
this condition experience pain, tingling or numbness to
certain parts of the body, especially the extremities.
‘Thus the present invention provides the use of a first
topical composition comprising a physiologically
tolerable vasodilator and a second topical composition
comprising a physiologically tolerable vasoconstrictor
in the manufacture of a medicament for the treatment of
circulatory disorders, especially Raynaud's disease.
The compositions of the invention are also suitable for:
combating baldness (for example by increasing blood flow
to defined areas of the scalp); reducing unwanted hair
growth (for example by reducing blood flow to defined
areas); strengthening nails (for example by increasing
blood flow to the nail bed) and the control of acne
spots (for example by reducing blood flow during the day
to reduce redness and/or increasing blood flow at night
to speed up the cell cycle).
The invention will now be described further with
reference to the following non-limiting examples.
Example 1
Lip Ointment
1% wt of Capsaicin is worked into the skin ointment
commercially available under the trade name Vaseline®.
Unguentum Merck may be used in place of Vaseline® and L-
arginine or menthol may be used in place of capsaicin.
Example 2
Lip liner
0.12% wt witch hazel is worked into a soft wax (or
petroleum jelly) which can then be applied with a brushca 02585293 2007-04-25
WO 2006/046025 PCT/GB2005/004120
ae
ox spatula.
Example 3
Formula A - Lip Ointment
Ingredients expressed as percentage weight/volume
47% Hawthorn berry extract Fresh plant tincture
Crataegus oxyacantha prepared from organically
cultivated or wild herbs in Switzerland
23.5% New Zealand Clover Honey
23.5% Vaseline
5.88% Japanese Oil of Peppermint
2.35% Niacin B3
Example 4
Formula B - Lip Ointment
Ingredients expressed as percentage weight/volume
40% Hawthorn berry extract Fresh plant tincture
Crataegus oxyacantha
2% Niacin B3
20% Japanese Oil of Peppermint
20% New Zealand Clover Honey
20% Vaseline
0.00017% Capsaicin
10% Extra virgin Olive oil
Example 5
Lip liner
50% w/v Lemon Juice
50% w/v Witch Hazel
Example 6
Lip Enhancement study
Selection of Study Participants
Local ethical committee approval was obtained for the
study prior to commencing. 30 healthy women aged
between 20-56 were recruited for the study.ca 02585293 2007-04-25
WO 2006/046025 PCT/GB2005/004120
12 -
Study Method
Volunteers were randomly assigned to one of two groups.
Group 1 (n=18) had formulation A applied to both lips
and group 2 (n=12) had formulation B applied to both
lips. Two observers carried out all of the
measurements.
Baseline measurements of lip diameter (upper and lower)
were taken at three points. The same three points were
measured throughout the study using, reference points
were marked on clear acetate sheet (the same reference
points were used. for each subject throughout the study) .
The diameter of the lips at the three marked reference
points was measured using vernier calipers.
Photographs of the closed lips were taken using a
standard reference point (baseline photographs). The
lip liner (of Example 5) was applied around the
perimeter of the lips using a small applicator.
Immediately afterwards, either formulation A or B was
applied to the surface of the lips. No other colour-
enhancers were used.
Repeated measurements and photographs of the lips were
taken throughout the course of the study (up to 300
minutes post application) .
Results
Formulation A
61% of subjects exhibited a defined quantitative
enhancement of the lips. No quantifiable response was
recorded for the other 39% of subjects.
There was an immediate statistically significant
increase in diameter from baseline (P<0.03) by analysis
of variance with a protected least squares difference
post hoc test. The positive response remained highlyca 02585293 2007-04-25
WO 2006/046025 PCT/GB2005/004120
-a-
significantly increased from baseline for up to 300
minutes.
‘The maximum recorded response to the formulation was
close to an 80% augmentation of lip size.
Photographs showed clearly defined enhanced lips of one
subject, before and after application of lip liner and
Formulation A.
Formulation B
This formulation resulted in a significant increase in
lip diameter and definition in a large majority (83%) of
subjects. Only 17% showed no quantifiable response.
There was a statistically significant increase in
diameter from baseline (P<0.03) by analysis of variance
with a protected least squares difference post hoc test.
The positive response remained highly significantly
increased from baseline for up to 250 minutes.
The maximum recorded response to the formulation was
above 80% augmentation of lip size, which was sustained
for up to 250 minutes.
Photographs showed clearly defined enhanced lips of one
subject, before and after application of lip liner and
Formulation A.
Conclusions
Formulation A or B plus the lip liner resulted in
significant increase in lip size and definition. Both
treatments were active over a long time period. The
effects were found to be fully reversible and no side-
effects were reported. The formulations were well
tolerated by subjects. All subjects reported a self-ca 02585293 2007-04-25
WO 2006/046025 PCT/GB2005/004120
- 14 -
perceived increase in size and definition of the lips.
This technique of lip enhancement is non-invasive,
simple to apply and uses natural agents.
It is noted that formulation gave an asymmetric effect.
Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is thought
that this is linked to the human body's asymmetry. For
example the orbicularis oris muscle is one of the
muscles lying beneath the lip area. It is a concentric
band of muscle that loops around. It is one part
actually of the complex group of muscles for facial
expression. Functional or anatomical asymmetry in the
lips or underlying musculature and vasculature may
affect the vasodilator mechanism.
Formula A
Proposed mechanism of action: the agents act directly
on receptors on the blood vessels resulting in sub-
maximal vasodilatation of arterioles and capillaries
supplying the lips and surrounding musculature and
support structures. The resulting slight asymmetry may
well reflect the tendency to "right handedness" in the
human population as a whole and accentuate any slight
differences that may be present in muscle or vasculature
responsiveness.
Formula B
Proposed mechanism of action vasodilatation of blood
vessels in the vicinity of the lips and stimulation of
vanilloid receptors in producing locally released
endogenous mediators that enhance the action of the
vasodilators. The result: widespread dilatation by
direct and indirect mechanisms resulting in a greatly
enhanced increase in blood flow to the region. vessels
are dilated to a maximal diameter, thereby minimising
any differences in facial asymmetry (functional or
anatomical) .ca 02585293 2007-04-25
WO 2006/046025 PCT/GB2005/004120
Lip liner
vasoconstriction of the vessels surrounding the
vermilion - skin border, thereby limiting the
vasodilatation of the lips to the red area of the lips
and not the surrounding musculature and supporting
areas. Vasoconstriction around the circumferential
skin-skin border would result in accentuating the
vasodilatation and allow a clearer definition of the
lips.
Example 7
Lip Enhancement
The following tests are carried out using formulation B
of Example 4.
1. Lip liner to line lips.
2. Lip liner to line lips with formulation B over the
lip.
3. Lip liner to line lips and over lip followed by
formation B over lip.
4. Variations of the above but applied to one lip only.
5. Variations of the above but with each lip treated
differently.
Greatest enhancement of lip volume is found using tests
2 and 3.
Example 8
Wrinkle Treatment
A randomised double-blind trial is carried out involving
application of a standardised quantity of either
formulation (A or B) or suitable placebo to the skin of
subjects with mild, moderate or severe wrinkles.
The degree of wrinkles is assessed using qualitative
(self-assessment questionnaires) and quantitativeca 02585293 2007-04-25
WO 2006/046025 PCT/GB2005/004120
Pere
measurements (photography, digitization, computer
evaluation of wrinkles).
A noticeable reduction in the appearance of wrinkles is
found following treatment with formulation A or B.
Example 9
Wound Healing
A randomised double-blind trial design is carried out
involving application of standardised quantity of either
formulation (A or B) or suitable placebo to skin
lesions (mild, moderate and severe). The formulation is
applied either directly to the wound site (alone or in
combination with other beneficial agents such as an anti
microbial/anti bio-film agent in a formulation that
would maintain an optimum healing environment) or around
the wound site. The rate and degree of wound healing is
assessed using qualitative (self-assessment
questionnaires) and quantitative measurements of wound
healing (photography, digitization, computer evaluation
of wound size, degree of scarring, blood flow).
Example 10
Raynaud's disease
Formulation B was applied to a defined area of skin on
the forearm on a non Raynaud's control subject. This
resulted in widespread reddening of the immediate area
and vicinity of the initial area of application
indicating substantial vasodilatation. The effect was
long lasting (approx 3 hours).
Example 11
Raynaud's disease
A randomised double-blind trial design involving
application of standardised quantity of either
formulation (A or B) or suitable placebo to the skin of
Raynaud's sufferers (mild, moderate and severeca 02585293 2007-04-25
WO 2006/046025 PCT/GB2005/004120
-.7-
Raynaud's) is carried out. Topical application of
various formulation strengths and types - dependent on
the area to be treated - fingers, toes, nose, ears and
more extensively for hands and feet and parts of or
entire limbs for all levels of disease (mild, moderate
and severe) is performed. The degree of vasodilatation
is assessed using qualitative (self-assessment
questionnaires) and quantitative measurements of blood
flow (laser Doppler flow meter, thermal imaging,
scanning of limb and evaluation of colour changes) .
Favourable results are found.