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The document is an industrial training report submitted by students of Primeasia University for their internship at Metro Knitting and Dyeing Mills Ltd., part of the PANAM group. It details their experiences and learning across various departments, including knitting, dyeing, and garment finishing, highlighting the practical knowledge gained in textile engineering. The report serves as a comprehensive account of their training period from May to July 2025, fulfilling academic requirements for their B.Sc. degree.

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
63 views122 pages

Raw 2

The document is an industrial training report submitted by students of Primeasia University for their internship at Metro Knitting and Dyeing Mills Ltd., part of the PANAM group. It details their experiences and learning across various departments, including knitting, dyeing, and garment finishing, highlighting the practical knowledge gained in textile engineering. The report serves as a comprehensive account of their training period from May to July 2025, fulfilling academic requirements for their B.Sc. degree.

Uploaded by

emon19e
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

PRIMEASIA UNIVERSITY

Industrial Training Report On


Metro Knitting and Dyeing Mills Ltd

Submitted by

Name ID
Jakiya Akter 213 005 041

Sharmin Akter Shormi 213 011 041

Md. Khairul Hasan 213 020 041

This internship report submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the
degree of [Link]. in the Textile Engineering of Primeasia University.
Industrial Training Report On
Metro Knitting and Dyeing Mills Ltd

Supervised to
Department of Apparel Engineering

In partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Bachelor of


Science in Textile Engineering

Supervised By

Helal Uddin
Associate Professor

Department of Textile Engineering


Primeasia University

Duration: From 14TH May to 15th July 2025


Letter of Transmittal

1st September 2025


Helal Uddin
Associate Professor
Primeasia University, Banani Dhaka- 1213

Subject: Submission of Internship Report.

Dear Sir,
We are extremely indebted for your tremendous support and guidance throughout our
long journey at "Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. " concern of "PANAM" group
and internship period. Being working with you, we have earned valuable knowledge
and am inspired by your innovativeness, which helped enrich our experience to a
greater extent. An internship report on " Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd." Group
of "PANAM" Group is submitted to you for the partial fulfillment of the Bachelor of
Science in Textile Engineering Degree. During our internship period, we are trained in
all departments of Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. We made sincere efforts to
study related materials, observe operations performed in Knitting, Dyeing (fabric),
Washing, Printing, Garments, Finishing.
We have to make this report as comprehensive as possible within the time limit. But
there may be some mistakes due to various limitations. For this reason, we beg your
sympathetic consideration. Finally, we pray for your blessing for our successful
engineering career.

Yours Faithfully
Jakiya Akter 213 005 041
Sharmin Akter Shormi 213 011 041
Md. Khairul Hasan 213 020 041
[Link]. in Textile Engineering
Primeasia University, Banani Dhaka- 1213
Declaration of Examiners

The internship report on "Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. Concern of PANAM
group"
is submitted by Jakiya Akter (213 005 041), Sharmin Akter Shormi (213 011 041),
Md.
Khairul Hasan (213 020 041). We have not copied from any other colleague's work or
from any other sources except where due reference or acknowledgment is made
explicitly in the text, nor has any part been written for me by another person. We also
declare that neither this report nor any part of this thesis report has been submitted
elsewhere for the award of any degree. The report is accepted as satisfactory in partial
fulfillment of the requirement for the degree of [Link]. in Textile Engineering.

Dfdsfggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggg
ggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggg
Acknowledgement

First, we praise the almighty Allah who gave us grace to successfully complete this
industrial work. We are thankful to M.A. Khaleq Chairperson of Primeasia University,
Banani Dhaka- 1213.

With sincerity, We are highly delighted to express our regards and sincerest gratitude
to our
honorable supervisor Helal Uddin (Associate Professor) Primeasia University to
whom we are extremely indebted for his tremendous support and guidance throughout
our training period. Without his help, it would not have been possible to complete the
training successfully.

Special thanks to our industrial supervisor Sumon Majhi, Deputy General Manager,
Department of Printing. Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. Fatullah, Narayanganj,
for providing us with the chance to complete our Industrial Attachment at Metro
Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. Concern of PANAM group.

We also take the opportunity to express our sincerest gratitude and thanks to the
management. administration personnel, and all the staff of Fariha Knit Tex Limited
for their kind assistance.

Above all, we would like to acknowledge our deep debt to all the teachers of our
college for their kind inspiration and help, which remain as the backdrop of our
efforts. Finally, we express our sincere gratitude to our father, mother for their
continuous support, ideas and love.
Executive Summary

The Industrial Attachment is one of the most effective ways for Textile Engineering
students to gain practical knowledge about the textile manufacturing sector. It creates
an opportunity for learners to enrich their academic learning by working directly with
industry experts in the real production environment. We are grateful that we had the
opportunity to complete our two-month internship at Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills
Ltd., one of the leading and modern composite textile industries in Bangladesh.
Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. is a fully integrated composite factory equipped
with advanced technology and modern facilities. During our internship, we gained
comprehensive knowledge covering the entire process from yarn to finished garments.
Initially, we worked in the knitting section, where we learned about different types of
knitted fabrics such as Single Jersey, Rib, Interlock, Piqué, Fleece, and Jacquard
fabrics. After completing the knitting section, we moved to the dyeing department,
starting with the color lab, where we observed the darkroom shade checking process,
spectrophotometer operations, auto-dispensing systems, and sample dyeing machines.
In the bulk dyeing floor, we observed high-capacity dyeing machines such as
FONG’s, SCLAVOS, and THIES with significant daily production output. We also
explored the finishing section, which includes advanced machines like Stenter,
Compactor (Open & Tube), Calendar, Brushing, Shearing, Sueding, and Heat Setting
machines. The company also has a well-organized washing section equipped for
various garment washing processes, and a skilled merchandising department that
handles international buyers with professionalism.
The overall working environment of Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. is highly
professional yet friendly, providing an excellent learning platform for interns. This
attachment program not only enhanced our technical skills but also improved our
understanding of industrial workflow, quality standards, and teamwork in the textile
manufacturing industry.
Table of Contents

Chapter 1: Description Of The Project


 Project Description………………………………………………………... 01
 Core Philosophy & Ethical Views………………………………………… 02

CHAPTER 2: General Information About Factory


 Introduction……………………………………………………………….. 03
 Preface……………………………………………………………………. 05
 Objective of Internship…………………………………………………… 06
 Location of the factory…………………………………………………… 08
 At A Glance………………………………………………………………. 09
 Production Capacity
 Organogram
 Sister Concern
 Certification
 Major Buyers with their logo
 Different Departments of Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd.
 Vision

Chapter 3: Knitting Section


 Introduction
 Organogram
 Layout
 Process flow chart of knitting section
 Description of Production Process
 Raw Material for Knitting
 Yarn count
 Source of Yarn
 Types of knitting machine
 Different parts of a circular knitting machine
 Important parts of circular machine are briefly described below
 Knitting Variables
 Important Parameter and their Effect in Knitting
 Some Running Fabric Type in MKDML:
 Knitting Faults
 Production Calculation Formulas
 4Point system

Chapter 4: Lab Section


 Introduction
 Objectives of Dyeing Lab
 Organogram
 Process flow Chart of Lab
 Laboratory working procedure
 Types of Fabric Tests
 Machineries Used In Physical & Chemical Lab

Chapter 5: Store Section


 Organogram:
 Process Flow Chart
 Major Operations
 Production Evaluation

Chapter 5: Batching
 Batching & Its Types
 Functions of batching
 Batch card contains:

Chapter 6: Dyeing Section


 Introduction of Dyeing Section
 Organogram
 Dyeing Process Flowchart
 Recipe for Pretreatment
 Process Flow Chart of Scouring/ Bleaching
 Flow Chart of Cotton Whitening Process
 100% Cotton Dyeing Process
 Production Parameter (Dyeing)
 Common Dyeing Faults & Remedies
 Product evaluation process

Chapter 7: Dyeing Finishing Section


 Introduction
 Types of finishing
 Machines of finishing section
 Product evaluation process
 Finishing m/c wise process flow chart

Chapter 8: Printing Section


 Printing
 Machine List
 Machine Wise Details
 Machine Wise Details (expose)
 Screen Type & max Repeat
 Screen Repeat Measurement
 Flow chart
 Sop of Printing
 Procedure
 Chemical & auxiliaries budget for Reactive Print
 Continuous Wash Machine
 Working Process: (A) Pigment wash
 Printing Recipe Book
 Fabric Ground Color
 Printing Machine Details
 Stenter Machine
 Loop Steamer Machine
 Flow Chart for Rotary Screen Exposing

Chapter 9: Sample Section


 Over View of sample
 Types of samples
 Organogram
 Process Flow Chart
 Machineries used
 Major Operation
 Product evaluation process

Chapter 10: Garment Section


 Introduction
 Garments Included Departments
 Operation Sequence

Chapter 11: Cutting Section


 Cutting Layout
 Organgram
 Introduction to Cutting
 Objectives of Cutting
 Process Sequence for Cutting Section
 Machinery Used for Cutting
 Fabric Relaxation
 Standard Relaxation time based on Fabric type
 Fabric Spreading
 Types of Fabric Spreading
 Marker making
 Objects of marker making
 Fabric Cutting
 Methods of Fabric Cutting
 Cutting room equipment’s
 Numbering
 Bundling
 Product Evaluation Process

Chapter 12: Sewing Section


 Introduction
 Types of Sewing Machine
 Process Sequence for Sewing Section
 Sewing Sequence of T-Shirt
 Sewing Quality checking points
 Major Operation
 Product evaluations process
 Sewing Machine Description
 Sewing Defect
 Machinery Used according to Operation
 Accessories

Chapter 13: Garment Finishing Section


 Introduction
 Process Sequence in Finishing Section
 Operations in the Finishing Section
 Machines Used
 Product evaluation process
 Packing Area

Chapter 14: Quality Section


 About Quality
 Object of Quality Control
 Types of Quality Assurance System
 Online Quality Control System
 Offline quality assurance system
 AQL (Acceptable Quality Level)

Chapter 15: Merchandising


 Introduction
 Responsibilities of Merchandiser
 Process flow chart of Merchandising

Chapter-11: Utility and Maintenance


 List of Major Utilities Management in MKDML
 Water Treatment Plant (WTP)
 Steam Boiler
 Machine Description
 Generator
 Maintenance

Chapter 16: Human Resource


 ABOUT HR
 RESPONSIBILITIES MANAGED BY HR
 HR Policies & Practices
 Organizational Structure of HR
 Recruitment Process
 HR AND MANPOWER

Chapter 17: Impact Of Internship

Chapter 18: Conclusion


Chapter 1: Description of the project

Project Description:
The industrial attachment is the process, which builds understanding, skill and attitude
of the performer, which improve his knowledge in boosting productivity and services.
University education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical
attachment, in despite of all these industrial attachment help us to be familiar with
technical support of modern machinery, skill about various processing stages. It also
provides us sufficient practical knowledge about production management, work study,
efficiency, industrial management, production planning & control, production cost
analysis, inventory management, purchasing, utility and maintenance of machinery
and their operation technique etc. The above mentioned cannot be achieved
successfully by means of theoretical knowledge only. This is why it should be
accomplished with practical knowledge in which it is based on industrial attachment
make us reliable to be accustomed with the industrial atmosphere and improve
courage and inspiration to take self-responsibility.
Textile education cannot be completed without industrial training because this
industrial training minimize the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge and
make us accustomed to industrial environment.
We got an opportunity to complete two-months long industrial training at Metro
Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. (Sister Concern of Panam Group). In the field of ever
changing moderns fashion work Panam Group consider it prime mission to every new
test. Metro Knitting &Dyeing Mills Ltd has well planned & equipped knit fabric
dyeing finishing and garments unit in addition to facilitate and knitwear
manufacturing. It has quickly risen the ranks and established itself as one of the
composite knitwear manufacturing sector in Bangladesh.
From fiber to fabric, the Textile division of Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd is a
truly integrated undertaking. The textile division has the capability to offer a complete
product range for the export textile markets. The goal of Textile Division is to become
the preferred partner for sourcing high quality fabric and clothing from Bangladesh.
Core Philosophy & Ethical Views:
Human sprite
Ethical business practice
Protecting Environment
Panam Group is known as an entity whose main driven force is its human resources.
Within the framework of the group, human resource plays a vital role in its success.
By the sheared inner spirit of Panam Group Board Member & Executive the
impossibilities of plans are over empowered and turns into possibilities. The seniors
keep shearing attitude across the units to ensure that each of the employees are highly
motivated and engaged to see him or herself into the big picture and contributes
accordingly – it is culture of the group. The group believe that it is not only to
produce and deliver high quality, reliable safe goods and service to the clients, but
also to give them the sense of trust which builds a strong bondage among us. Further,
they believe that their employees are the heartbeat of their organization and therefore,
they continuously put their best efforts into maintaining employee’s welfare and
adhere to their development.
Consequently, over the years through their collaborative efforts they have cultivated a
great trustworthy relationship with all their stakeholders. These relationship are the
building blocks of this company and the group look forward to harmoniously growing
together in the years to come.
Chapter 2: GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT
FACTORY

Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd.


Ramarbag, Kutubpur, Fatullah
Narayanganj, Dhaka-1400.
Phone: (088) 02 7647649-50
Email: info@[Link]
Website: [Link]

Metro Knitting and Dyeing Mills Ltd.


Introduction:
The term “textile” derived from the Latin textilis and the French texere,
meaning "to weave," and it is originally referred only to woven fabrics. It
has, however, come to include fabrics which is produced by other
methods. Thus, threads, cords, ropes, braids, lace, embroidery, nets, and
fabrics are made by weaving, knitting, bonding, felting, or tufting. Some
definitions of the term textile would also include those products obtained
by the papermaking principle that have many of the properties which
associated with conventional fabrics. In addition to clothing and home
furnishings, textiles are used for such industrial products as filters to air
conditioners, life rafts, conveyor belts, tents, automobile tires, swimming
pools, safety helmets and mine ventilators. From Yarn to Garments,
Metro Knitting And Dyeing Mills Ltd. is truly integrated undertaking
Metro Knitting And Dyeing Mills Ltd. has the capability to offer a
complete product range for the export textile markets. The goal of Metro
Knitting And Dyeing Mills Ltd. is to become the preferred partner for
sourcing high quality fabrics and clothing from Bangladesh With highly
advanced technology and an emphasis on developing local human
resources. Metro Knitting And Dyeing Mills Ltd. has the potential to
make an important contribution to the nation's growing ready-made
garments export sector.

Preface:
Industrial training is the link between the theoretical and practical knowledge. It
minimizes the gap between the theoretical and practical knowledge. Without it our
fourth year’s theoretical knowledge would not be completed. Theoretical study
provides us the explanation of all scientific terms and conditions and practical study
provides the all tools that may or may not be used while practicing the related subject.
As a part of the teaching methodology for gaining knowledge about machinery and
process used for the production, our eight (8) weeks industrial training has been
completed at Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd.

Objectives of Internship:
 Assist the student's development of employer-valued skills such asteamwork,
communications and attention to detail.
 Expose the student to the environment and expectations of performanceon the
part of accountants in professional accounting practice, private/public
companies or government entities.
 Enhance and/or expand the student's knowledge of a particular area(s) of
accounting.
 Apply business concepts and theories to real-world decision-making.
 Increase proficiency in specific business disciplines; such as human resources
management, operations management, marketing, accounting, statistics,
economics, finance, and business law.
 Develop and improve business skills in communication,
technology,quantitative reasoning, and teamwork.
 Observe and participate in business operations and decision-making.
 Meet professional role models and potential mentors who can
provideguidance, feedback, and support.
Location of Factory:
At A Glance:

Company Name: Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. (concern of Panam Group)
Type of Business: Manufacturer 100% Export oriented composite factory
Legal Status: Private Limited Company
Year in operation: 2000
Contact Person: Amal Podder
Managing Director
Mail: [Link]@[Link]
Corporate Office: Navana Pristine Pavilion, Level 10th & 11th
128 Gulshan AVE, Dhaka-1212, Bangladesh.
Phone: (088) 02 8833753, (088) 8833756, (088) 8833757
Factory Office:
Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd.
Ramarbag, Kutubpur, Fatullah Narayangani, Dhaka-1400.
Bank:
United Commercial Bank Ltd.
Narayangonj Branch
56/1, S.M. Mateh Road, Tanbazar Narayangonj-1400, Bangladesh.
Phone: +88 02 7646628, +88 02 9711328
Fax: +88 02 7641262
Swift: UCBLBDDHANGJ
Turnover: US$150.00
Million/year (2016)
Total Manpower: 7000 Nos

Production Capacity:
Knitting: 140 ton/day
Dyeing: 90 ton/day
Finishing:
Cutting:
Printing: 110000 pcs/day
Sewing: 250000 pcs/day
Washing:
Garments Dye Capacity- 0.2 million pcs/month
Garments Wash Capacity- 0.6 million pcs/month

1.5 Sister Concern:


a) Bea-Con1 Knit Wear Ltd
b) Bea-Con2 Knit Wear Ltd
c) Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd

Product Mix:
100% cotton
100% polyester
a) Spun
b) Filament
Nylon
Chief Value Cotton (CVC)
Polyester Cotton blend
Gray Mélange

Organogram:
 Chairman
 Managing Director

Sister Concern
 Bea-Con Knit Wear Ltd.
 Mercer Design Tex Ltd.
 Scandex Textile Industries Ltd.
 Metro Knitting and Ding Mills Ltd.

Certification:
 WRAP
 Oeko Tex
 BGMEA
 BKMEA
Major Buyers With Their Logo:

SL Buyer Name Buyer Logo

1 Tommy Hilfiger USA

2 Calzedonia (ITALY)

3 G.U Company Ltd (JAPAN)

4 Next Uk

5 Promodoro

6 Betty Barclay

8 Takisada

9 Adastria

10 CK

11 Varner
Different Departments of Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd:
 Production Oriented Departments
 Yarn Store
 Knitting Section Knitted Fabric Store
 Color or Chemical Lab
 Testing or Physical Lab Color & Chemical Store
 Salt & Soda Store
 Batch Section
 Dyeing Section Planning & Control
 Finishing Section
 Utilities
 Maintenance
 Quality Control
 All Over Printing (AOP)
 Cutting Section
 Sewing Section
 Garments Finishing
 Garments Quality
 Trims & Accessories
 Garments Printing
 Garments Washing & Dyeing
 Water Treatment Plant
 Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP)

Supporting Department:
 Merchandising
 Marketing
 Information Technology (IT)
 Industrial Engineering (IE)
 Human Resource Management (HRM)
 Finance & Accounting
 Medical
 Personnel Administration
 Security Section

Vision:
MKDL commenced its operation in 2000 by setting up Metro Knitting and Dyeing
Ltd. It achieved quick successes because of its entrepreneur's long experience &
involvement in this factory. Anticipating the new requirements of apparel
manufacturing like shorter lead time & flexibility in production, MKDL located itself
in Narayanganj, a port-adjacent Composite manufacturing hub of Bangladesh, along
with installing sophisticated technology & machineries. As a result, MKDL
successfully has secured reputed retailers of UE and US in its clientele. JMFL takes a
lot pride that it is serving most of its clients through a lasting & trusted relationship.
To turn over volume order, MKDL expanded its capacity continuously and now has
reached around 293 thousand pieces per day in garments manufacturing and around
68 tons of fabrics Per day.2016 is 150 million Dollar. MKDL has awarded ISO 9001-
2000 for its Quality Management System (QMS) certificate for the responsible
composite manufacturing process.

Chapter 3: Knitting
Introduction:
 Knitting is process of making fabric that is generally done inter-looping of one
or two set yarns. Knitting are primarily classified as weft knitting and warp
knitting.
 Weft knitting is a knitted piece of fabric where the stitches run from left to
right horizontally across the fabric.
 Warp knitting is a loop forming process in which the yarn is fed into the
knitting zone, parallel to the fabric salvage.

Organogram:
 General Manager
 Knitting Manager
 Production Officer
 Knitting Master
 Asst. Knitting Master
 Shift In charge
 Supervisor
 Operator
 Helper

Layout
Process flow chart of knitting section:
Description of Production Process:
In every mill there maintains a sequence in production processing. It is also followed
in this mill where we were in industrial attachment. The process sequences are in list
below:
 Firstly knitting manager gets a production shit from the merchandiser as
according as consumer requirements then he informs or orders production
officer about it.
 Production officer informs technical in charge & knows about machine in
which the production will be running.
 Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they two take
decision about machine for production considering machine condition,
production capacity, maintenance complexity etc.
 Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts required stitch
length & grey GSM for required final GSM.
 Supervisor checks daily production regularity & make operator conscious
about finishing tin due time.
 Operators operate machine in high attention as if there were no faults in the
fabrics. If he thinks or sure about any fabrics faults then he calls for the
mechanical fitters in duty. Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he
informs technical in charge. Then he comes in spot.
 After required production & final inspection in 4- point system, theysent in
 Dyeing section.

Raw Material for Knitting:


MKDML(Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd.) takes yarn as its raw materials for its
initial production of knitted fabric to make garments. It has no spinning section of its
own. So, its depend o different of spinning mills of home and abroad to collect yarn as
it requires and here are the details of the raw materials of knitting section.

Yarn

100% cotton Man made Blended Regenerated


Cellulose
 Carded  Polyester  CVC  Viscose
 Combed  Elastane  PC  Modal
 Rotor  Mellange
Melange yarn
Mélange is produce by blending different amount of top dyed fiber with gray fiber.
Different types of mélange used in knitting are:
 White/Ecru mélange (dyed fiber 0.2-2%)
 Grey mélange (dyed fiber 2-15%)

Yarn count

Types of yarn count

Cotton 16s, 20s, 22s, 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s, 34s, 40s

Organic cotton 22s, 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s, 34s

Polyester Yarn 75D, 100D, 150D

Spandex Yarn 20D, 40D, 70D

Gray Melange (C-90% V-10%) 20s, 22s, 24s, 26S, 30S, 34S

PC (P-65% C-35%) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

CVC 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

Source of Yarn
BANGLADESH
 Square spinning mills
 Viyella TeX
 NRG spinning mills ltd.
 Pahartoli Spinning Mills Ltd.
 Matam Spinning Mills Ltd.
 Divian Spinning Mills Ltd.

INDIA
 Garg Spinning Mills
 Sport King India Ltd.
 Sudhan Spinning Mills Pvt Ltd.
 Vaibhav Laxmi Spinning Mills Ltd.
 Salona Cotspin Ltd.

INDONESIA
 PT Embee Plumbon Textile
 PT. Kewalram Indonesia
 PT. Indorama Synthetics Tbk.

CHINA

VIETNAM
Basically 20% of total demand is filled up by Bangladeshi yarns. Most of the yarn
requirement mainly come from our neighboring country India.

Types of knitting machine:

There are mainly two types of weft knit machines use in JFL viz. circular knitting
machine and Flatbed knitting machine.

Fig : Circular Knitting Machine


Fig : Flat Bed Knitting Machine

Different parts of a circular knitting machine


 Needle Track
 Needle
 Sinker
 Sinker Ring
 Creel
 Cone Holder
 VDQ Pulley
 Pulley Belt
 Brush
 Tension Disk
 Inlet and Outlet Stop Motion
 Yarn Guide
 MPF Wheel
 MPF
 Feeder Ring
 Disk Drum
 Pattern Wheel
 Feeder
 Cam Box
 Cam
 Lycra Attachment Device
 Lycra Stop Motion
 Cylinder
 Cylinder Balancer
 Uniwave Lubrication
 Adjustable Fan
 Expander
 Needle Detector
 Air Gun Nozzle
 Cone holder
 Aluminum Telescopic Tube
 Winding Wheel & Driven Pulley
 Stopper
 Sensor
 Spreader
 Take-Down Motion Rollers
 Winding Roller
 Sinker Box
 Feeder Guide
 Fabric Detector
 Lubricating Tube

Important parts of circular machine are briefly described below.


1. Needle Track:
Where all Needles is placed together in a decent design.

2 Needle:
It is a principal element of the knitting machine. Needle receive yarn from the feeder,
create a loop as well as release old loop and finally produce the fabric. Prior to yarn
feeding the needle is raised to clear the old loop from the hook, and received the new
loop above it on needle stem. The new loop is then enclosed in the needle hook as the
needle starts to descend. The number of needles varies depending on the machine’s
size and purpose.
3. Sinker:
It is the second primary knitting element. Sinker is a thin metal plate that rests behind
the needles. It helps to loop forming, knocking over and holding down the loop.

4. Sinker Ring:
Sinker ring is a ring. Where all sinkers are pleased together.
5. Creel:
Creel is a part of a knitting machine. It is a vertical aluminium stick where creel is
placed for holding the yarn cone. Hear yarn package are store and ready to feed in the
machine.

6. Cone Holder:
Cone holder is the part of creel where the yarn cones are placed. It is an inclined
metallic stick. It is also known as cone carrier.

7. VDQ Pulley:
VDQ means Variable Dia for Quality. It is a very important part of the machine. It
controls the quality of knitted fabric by adjusting GSM and stitch length during the
knitting process. Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the
fabric. To increase the fabric GSM the pulley is moved towards the positive direction
and to decrease the fabric
GSM the pulley is moved towards the reverse direction. This pulley also called
quality adjustment pulley (QAP) or Quality adjustment Disk (QAD).
8. Pulley Belt:
It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel.

9. Brush:
Its clean the pulley belt.
10. Tension Disk:
It confronts the tension of the supply yarn. It also ensures the appropriate gripping of
yarn.

11. Inlet and Outlet Stop Motion:


It is an important part of the machine. It stops the machine instantly when a yarn is
break.

12. Yarn Guide:


Its help the yarn to feed in the feeder.
13. MPF Wheel:
It controls the speed of the MPF. Pulley belt gives motion to the wheel.

14. MPF:
It is Mamenger positive feed. It is also an important part of the machine. It’s give
positive feed to the machine.
15. Feeder Ring:
It is a ring. Where all feeders are pleased together.

16. Disk Drum:


Use in jacquard machine to produce various types of design.

17. Pattern Wheel:


Pattern Wheel use in Pai Lung and Auto Stripe machine because of that that help to
produce various types of design and stripe.
18. Feeder:
Feeder is help yarn to feed in to the machine.

19. Cam Box:


Where the cam are set horizontally.
20. Cam:
Cam is device s which converts the rotary machine drive in to a suitable reciprocating
action for the needles and other elements. Knitting cams are attached either
individually or in unit form to a cam plate and depending upon the machine design.
There are three types of cam used in knitting machine:
 Knit cam
 Tuck cam
 Miss cam

21. Lycra Attachment Device:


Lycra is placed hear. And feeding to the machine. It has a con holder where Lycra
filament cones are kept. There is an outlet sensor which sense if the Lycra out or
break down.

22. Lycra Stop Motion:


It is one kind of stop motion to stop the machine when the Lycra is break.
23. Cylinder:
Needle track are situated hear. Cylinder holds the needle to its groove tightly. When it
rotates the needle is also rotate.

24. Cylinder Balancer:


It helps the cylinder to set in a proper alignment.
25. Uniwave Lubrication:
The Uniwave lubricator provides uniform lubrication to needles, cam tracks, lifters
and other knitting machine components. The patented nozzle construction separates
the air-oil mixture into air and droplets of oil.

26. Take up roller:


Support the newly made fabric properly. So that newly made fabric can wound in
cloth roller perfectly.

27. Expander:
To control the width of the knitted fabric. No distortion of the knitting courses. Even
take down tension in the knitting machine. As a result, an even fabric structure is
achieved over the entire fabric width. The deformation of the knitted fabric goods can
be reduced.
28. Needle Detector:
This part detect the any type of faults of needles.

29. Fabric Detector:


If fabric torn off or fall down from the machine, fabric detector touches the cylinder
and the machine becomes stopped. It also called fabric fault detector.
30. Air Gun Nozzle:
To feed the yarn; sometimes it is used for cleaning purpose.
31. Aluminum Telescopic Tube:
This is the tube through which yarn is passed from creel to the machine. It reaches the
yarn to the Memminger positive feeder. It works as a yarn cover. It protects the yarn
from the excessive friction, dust and fly fiber.

32. Knot catcher:


Clean the knot which made from dust

33. Sensor:
The sensor is located at MPF. If anyone of the stoppers gets upwards due to the
breakage of yarn, the sensor automatically receives signal and stops the machine.
34. Inlet sensor:
It sense during yarn breakage and stop the machine.

35. Outlet sensor:


It situated in the positive feeder at work is as like as inlet sensor. It sense when yarn
breakage. Light glow. And the is machine stopped automatically.

36. Adjustable Fan:


Generally, two sets of running fans are continuously circulated from the center of
machine dia. They remove lint, hairy fiber from yarn and others by air flow. To clean
the dust by air flow. Adjustable fans are rotated in the opposite motion of the cylinder.
It is situated upper position of cylinder.
Knitting Variables:
 Yarn Count: Yarn count indicates the fineness of yarn. It varies according to
weight with length of the yarn.
 Yarn Twist: It is the torsion of yam which helps the fibers to ad hear with each
other.
 Spinning System: This is the systematic way of giving torsion to the fibers.
 Yarn Ply: It is the number of ply of the yarn which depends on the required
GSM of the fabric.
 Stitch Length: It is the length of the yarn which forms a single loop in a
knitted fabric. If stitch length is increased, fabric GSM is decreased & vice
versa
 Yarn Tension: It is the given tension on the yarn during feeding in circular
knitting machine. It depends on the required GSM of the fabric. If yarn tension
is increased, then stitch length is decreased and fabric GSM is increased. And
if yarn tension is decreased, then stitch length is increased and fabric GSM is
decreased.
 Take Up Tension: It is the tension created by increasing fabric take up roller
speed.
 Yarn Quality: Fabric quality depends on the yarn quality. As for example, for
producing slub single jersey we need slub yarn.
 M/C Gauge: It the number of needles in one-inch area of a cylinder.
Important Parameter and their Effect in Knitting:
 Stich Length: Stitch length increase, GSM decrease. Stitch length decrease GSM
increase
 GSM: GSM increase with decrease of stitch length. If shrinkage increase, then GSM
increase
 Count: GSM depends on yarn count.
 M/C Gauge: For finer gauge finer count should be use. If gauge decrease, then stitch
length increase.
 Feeder: Production increase with increase of no. of feeder
 Design: Cam setting , Set of needles, Size of loop shape

Some Running Fabric Type in MKDML:


In S/J Machine:
 Single Jersey
 Stripe Single Jersey
 Normal Fleece
 Cross Fleece
 Single Lacoste
 Double Lacoste

 Terry
 Single Pique
 Double Pique
In Rib (Double Jersey) Machine:
 1x1 Rib
 2×1 Rib
 Design Rib
 Interlock
 Automan Rib
 Wafel
 Pique interlock

Knitting Faults:
o Needle mark.
o Sinker mark.
o Wheel mark.
o Oil Spot/mark.
o Dia Mark Group sinker mark.
o Fly Dust
o Side crease mark
o Crease mark
o Hole/Loop.
o Set Off.
o Lycra drop
o Pin Hole
o Lycra out
o Lycra adjusts with cotton.
o Star problem.
o Line star mark.
o Dirty spot.
o Yarn path.
o Yarn thick thin.
o Ink spot/Ink mark.
o Foreign fiber.
o Lot/Yarn/Count / Brand Mixed.
o Lycra Denier mixed.
o Single Jersey GSM Variation.
o Loop drop in fleece & Terry fabrics.
o Needle Broken.

Important Parameter and their Effect in Knitting:


Stitch Length:
 Stitch length increase , GSM decrease
 Stitch length decrease ,GSM increase
GSM:
 GSM increase with decrease of stitch length
 If shrinkage increase then GSM increase
Count:
 GSM depends on yarn count
M/C Gauge:
 For finer gauge finer count should be use
 If gauge decrease then stitch length increase
Feeder:
 Production increase with increase of no. of feeder
Design:
 Cam setting
 Set of needle
 Size of loop shape

Production Calculation Formulas:


Production Machine Capacity =
πDG X Stitch Length (mm) X No. of feeder X RPM X time (min) X 1.09
…………………………………………………………………………………
1000 X 840 X count X 2.204
EFFICIENCY=
10 X 2.54 X 36 X count X 840 X 2.204 X Production X 100%
……………………….……………………….……………………….…………
πDG X Stitch Length (mm) X No. of feeder X RPM X time (min)

❖Fabric width =
πDG
........………………………………………
Wales per centimeter
 Gauge = Per Inch no of Needle
 No. of Needle = 3.1416* machine dia* Machine gauge
 Fabric GSM = Fabric weight * 100
Calculation:
4Point system,
Fabric Roll Length =
Roll weight(kg) X 1000 X 36 X 1.2
….…………………………………………
Grey GSM X Grey Dia (Inch)
Points/100 Yd
For Open = Total Points X 36 X 100
........…………………………………………………
Roll Length(yds) X Actual Width(Inch)

Penalty points grade:

Fig: 4 Point System

Chapter 4: Lab
Introduction:
Lab is the most important section of a dying industry. Higher precision lab can aid
easily to achieve the goal of the organization. Before bulk production a sample for the
approval from industry is sent to the buyer. As per requirement of the buyer the shade
is prepared in a lab considering the economical aspects. JM Fabrics has a Central Lab
including two major sections - Physical lab and Chemical Lab.

Objectives of Dyeing Lab:


 The main objectives in lab dip are as follows:
 To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.
 To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or Spectrophotometer.
 To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
 Finally approved Lab Dip (Grade: A, B, C & D)
Organogram:

Process flow Chart of Lab


Laboratory working procedure:

Sample Receive 》 Test Identification 》 Conditioning

Sampling, Formatting & 》Test Performance 》 Conditioning & Evaluation

Mounting & Result 》 Report Review 》 Delivery of Soft & Print


in Raw Data & Soft Copy Name

Preservation of Tested S
watch Raw Data
as Per Buyer Policy
Types of Fabric Tests:
Following tests perform in JM Fabrics laboratory:
1. Dimensional stability to washing.
2. Spirality (Twist in fabric).
3. Appearance after wash.
4. Colorfastness to washing.
5. Colorfastness to water.
6. Colorfastness to perspiration.
7. Colorfastness to rubbing.
8. Colorfastness to chlorine bleach.
9. Colorfastness to non- chlorine bleach.
10. Colorfastness to saliva.
11. Phenolic yellowing.
12. Colorfastness to Actual laundering.
13. Fabric weight.
14. Thread count.
15. ICI pilling.
16. Random tumble pilling.

17. Bursting strength.


18. pH test.
19. Fabric width.

Machineries used in Physical & Chemical lab:


Electronic crock meter :
Usages: Rubbing Test.

Wrap Reel electronic:


Usages: Yarn count test

Yarn Twist tester:


Usages: For Yarn twist(TPI) Test
GSM Cutter (Fabric sample cutter):
Usages: For GSM test of fabrics

Fabric weight digital balance:


Usages: For weight measurement of GSM

ICI Pilling Tester:


Usages: For ICI Pilling test

Yarn appearance tester:


Usages: For Yarn appearance test

Perspirometer kit:
Usages: For perspiration test

Quick wash m/c:


Usages: For quick shrinkage & twist test

Accu dry (Tumble dryer):


Usages: For tumble dry

Zanussi ( Tumble dryer):


Usages: For tumble dry

Samsung washing m/c:


Usages: For Dimensional stability & spirality, twist test.

Electrolux wascator:
Usages: For Dimensional stability & spirality, twist test.
Rota wash:
Usages: For colorfastness to wash test.

Lab dip sample dyeing m/c:


Usages: For lab dip dyeing

Electronic Balance (ohaus):


Usages: For dyestuff weight

Whirpool Washing m/c:


Usages: For Dimensional stability & spirality, twist test.

Whirpool washing dryer:

Usages: For Dimensional stability & spirality, twist test

Electronic Balance (Advance pro):


Usages: For sample fabric weight of lab dips.

Light box:
Usages: For shade check

Digital pipette:
Usages: For lab dips sample dyeing

Hot air oven-1,2 & 3:


Usages: For color fastness to wash, water, perspiration, saliva & phenolic yellowing
test.
Data color:
Usages: For Recipe collection & shade variation (CMC) test

Stretch & Recovery:


Usages: For fabric stretch and recovery test

Yarn strength tester:


Usages: For single yarn strength test

Digital crock meter:


Usages: For Rubbing test

Bursting strength tester:


Usages: For bursting strength test of fabrics

Chapter 5: Store Section.


Organogram:
 Manager
 Jr. Manager
 Executive
 Sr. Officer
 Officer
 tr. Officer
 Store Asst.
 Loader
 Driver
 Helper

Process Flow chart:


Booking materials (by merchandiser according to style wise)
Receive materials (style wise)
Inspections (ok / reject)
Inventory (If ok)
Check (invoice packing / receipt)
Delivery on the floor (according to need of the floor)

Major Operations:
a) Fabric Received
b) Fabric inspection
c) Fabric inventory
d) Shrinkage test of fabric
e) Shade grouping of fabric
f) Color continuity card
g) Fabric assessment with light

Production Evaluation:
 Store the fabric before production
 Knock the suppliers for delivery accessories at time
 Store the fabric after quality and quantity checking
 Maintaining inventory report
 Supply the materials through the sub-store(sewing floor) with the
document.
 Giving input report to R&D
Chapter 5: Batching

Batching:
Batching means separation of fabric according to specification, Dyeing machine
capacity & availability, urgency of the order. Batch preparation is the process where
visually inspected grey fabrics are divided into different batches with reasonable
quantity in order to make them suitable for further operation.

Batching is of Two Types:


 Solid
 Assorted

Functions of batching:
 To receive the grey fabric, roll from the knitting section.
 Turn the grey fabric if require.
 To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following
 criteria–Order sheet (Received from buyer)
 Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
 M/C capacity
 M/C available type of fabrics (100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC)
 To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
 To keep records for every previous dyeing.

Batch card contains:

Buyer name Colo Machine gauge Finished Dia

Order no ype of fabric Stitch length Grey fabric weight

Lot size Yarn count Grey fabric GSM

Yarn lot Finished fabric Grey Dia


GSM

Chapter 6: Dyeing Section.

Introduction of Dyeing Section:


Dyeing is the process of adding colour to textile products like fibres, yarns, and
[Link] is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular
chemical material. After dyeing, dye molecules have uncut chemical bond with fiber
molecules. The temperature and time controlling are two key factors in dyeing.
Production capacity: 82 tons per day.

Organogram:
 Dyeing Manager
 Asst. Dyeing Manager
 Executive officer
 Production officer
 Shift in charge
 Quality Controller
 Supervisor
 Line Chief
 Quality
 Operator
 Helper

Dyeing Process Flowchart :


Grey Fabric Inspection
Batching
Machine Selection
Fabric loading
Select production program
Pretreatment (Scouring and Bleaching)
Neutralization (Pretreat)
Select Recipe for Dyeing
Dyeing
Soaping or after treatment
Neutralization Dyeing
Fixing
Softening
Unload
Sent to finishing section

Recipe for Pretreatment


Demineralizing:
 Detergent
Scouring & Bleaching:
 Detergent
 Ant creasing
 Antifoaming
 Stabilizer
 Sequestering
 Caustic soda
 Peroxide

Neutral:
 Peroxide killer
 Acetic acid
Enzyme:
 Acetic acid
 Enzyme

Process Flow Chart of Scouring/ Bleaching:


Machine filling with water
Chemical Dozing at 50°C
Run time 10 min.
H202 Dozing
Heating at 60°C
NaOH dozing
Heating at 110°C
Run time 20 min.
Cooling at 95°C
Rinse at 80°C
H2O2- kiler Dozing
Run time 10 min
Run time 10min.
Cooling for 55°C
Acid wash 3 min
Drain

Flow Chart of Cotton Whitening Process:

The fabric is loaded in machine & fills with required water.


Now auxiliary chemicals & acid are added.
Check the pH (3.4-4.8) of liquor.
Enzyme is added & run for 30 minutes.
Check the fabric if enzyme action is proper.
If not then increase time.
Otherwise aquachron for 10 minutes & drain the bath liquor.
Fill the bath with water.
Add auxiliary chemicals & raise the temperature of the dye bath.
Add H202 at 65°C.
Then add caustic soda at 70°C.
At more temperature add OBA in the bath.
Raise the temperature to 110°C.& run for 40 minutes.
Then lower the temperature to 80.C. & check shade.
By aquachron lower the temperature to 60°C..
Add acid to neutralize & run for 10 minutes.
At last aquachron& drain the bath liquor

100% Cotton Dyeing Process:

Taking required amount of water


Loading and running machine in normal temperature for 5-10 minute
Adding Scouring chemicals for 5 min.
Adding caustic at normal temperature for 5-10 min
Increasing temperature at 60°C
Adding H2O2 for 5 min
Increasing temperature at 95°C and run m/c for 1 hour
Checking Sample
Cold wash at 40°C for 5-10 min
Hot wash at 95°C for 5-10 min
Loading required amount of water
Adding acetic acid
Increasing temperature at 80°C for 15-20 min
Cold wash at 40°C and drain
Filling water and add acetic acid
Checking pH at 4.5
Salt dozing
Cold dozing for 30 min and run m/c for 10 min
Soda dozing for 40 min and run m/c for 7 min
Shade checking (ok)
Rinsing
Softening using softener
Final shade check and run for 20 min
Unload the dyed fabric

PC (Polyester, Cotton) fabric Dyeing process:


Taking required amount of water
Loading and running machine in normal temperature for 5-10 minute
Adding Scouring chemicals for 5 min.
Adding caustic at normal temperature for 5-10 min
Increasing temperature at 60°C
Adding H2O2 for 5 min
Color dozing at normal temp.
Increasing temperature at 135°C and run m/c for 40 min.
Cooling for 5-10 min
Checking Sample (ok)
Normal wash for 5-10 min & drain
Loading required amount of water
Adding caustic at low temperature for 20 min.
Add Hydrose
Increasing temperature at 180°C for 15-20 min
Normal hot wash at 80°C and drain
Filling water and add acetic acid
Checking pH at 4.5
Normal Wash at(50-60°C )
Shade checking (ok)
Drain water and follow the cotton dyeing process accordingly
Unload the dyed fabric

Production Parameter (Dyeing):

Particulars PH Temperature Time

Scouring bath 11.00 98°C 40-50 min

Enzyme bath 4.5-5.0 50-55°C 50 min

Dye bath 5.5-6.5 ..


… ..

Soaping bath 6.5-7.0 90-98°C 20 min

Softening bath 6.0 40-50°C 20 min

Fixing bath 5.5-6.0 45-50°C 20 min


Table : Dyeing Production Parameter

Common Dyeing Faults:


Uneven Dyeing:
Causes:
 Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring and bleaching).
 Improper Color dozing.
 Using dyes of high fixation properties.
 Uneven heat setting in case of synthetic fabrics.
 Lack of control on dyeing m/c.
Remedies:
 By ensuring even pretreatment
 By ensuring proper heat setting
 Proper dozing dyes and chemicals
 Proper controlling of dyeing m/c

Batch to Batch Shade variation:


Causes:
 Fluctuation of Temperature
 Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals
 Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals
 Dyes lot variation
 Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio
 Improper pretreatment
Remedies:
 Use standard dyes and chemicals
 Maintain the same liquor ratio
 Follow the standard pretreatment procedure
 Maintain the same dyeing cycle
 Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of
the Shade.
 Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same
time and temperature in the process.
 The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check
daily

Crease mark:
Causes:
 Poor opening of the fabric rope
 Shock cooling of synthetic material
 If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
 Due to high-speed m/c running
Remedies:
 Maintaining proper reel speed & pump speed.
 Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature.
 Reducing the m/c load.
 Higher liquor ratio.

Dye spot:
Causes:
 Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
 Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.
Remedies:
 By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals.
 By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh.
 strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed.

Product evaluation process:


 Calculate the production capacity
 To establish proper batching and select machine.
 To provide accurate guideline for the dyeing supervisor, dyeing quality and
other person of the dyeing floor.
 To solve any problem of the dyeing, it may production problem, worker
problem etc.
 To provide production report and other information in the dyeing of the higher
 authority
 To look after the dyeing
 To maintain the dyeing quality, dyeing manager and other persons of the
dyeing.
 To solve any problem of dyeing machine.
 To maintain batch input and output.
 To find out per day production capacity of the dyeing floor.

Chapter 7: Dyeing Finishing Section


Introduction
Textile finishing involves treating a textile material in such a way that the product has
the desired properties required for its intended use and therefore has great market
value. The desired properties may include the fabric dimensions and their stability, its
weight, drape, appearance, softness and handle, as well as any required functional
properties such as resistance to creasing, flame, water, oil, dirt or bacteria. Textile
finishing is therefore an extremely diverse field involving an extensive range of
chemicals. The chemicals used may weigh the fabric to make it easy to slide and
handle, or allow smooth penetration of a sewing needle to minimize needle breakage.
Anyone involved in textile coloration must be aware of the influence of preparation
process on the dyeing behavior of the fabrics as well as the finishing chemicals on the
final color of the goods and on their color fastness properties. Without this
knowledge, nobody can ensure the ultimate color and its fastness properties.

Types of finishing:
A. Chemical finishing:
 Chemical reaction of auxiliaries with fibers.
 Application of the handle modifying products / additives.
B. Mechanical finishing:
 Mechanical treatment with machines.
Organogram:
 Finishing Manger
 Asst. Finishign Manager
 Executive officer
 Quality Controller
 Shift In Charge
 Production officer
 Supervisor
 Operator
 Packing Man
 Helper

Machines of finishing section:


Name of Machine
 Slitting m/c
 Stenter m/c
 Open Compacting m/c
 Tube Compacting m/c
 Brush m/c
 Squeezer m/c
 Shearing m/c
 Calendar m/c
 Sueding m/c
 Steam dryer m/c
 Equalizer dryer /Gas dryer m/c
 Singeing m/c
 Back Sewing m/c
 Inspection m/c

Slitting m/c:
Function:
 Opening tube fabric
 Removing excess water by padder pressure
 Removing Crease mark
 Cleaning dust

Stenter Machine:
Function:
 To dry the fabric.
 Heat-set the synthetic fibers.
 To curing after printing
 Maintain dimensional stability.
 Controlling the GSM of fabric.
 Controlling the width of fabric.
 Skewness & Bowing control of stripe fabric.
 Fabric hand-feel modification-like-Softening or Hardening

Sueding Machine:
Function:
 Peach effect
 To develop a very low pile on Fabric Surface.
 Make the surface of fabric Smooth.
 Improve heat insulation properties.
 To increase the Soft Handle Properties

Compacting Machine:
Function:
 To control the shrinkage.
 To maintain proper width and G.S.M.
 To impart slightly dimensional stability

Product evaluation process:


 Calculate the production capacity
 To provide accurate guideline for the finishing supervisor, finishing
 quality and other person of the finishing area.
 To solve any problem of the finishing, it may production problem, worker
 problem etc.
 To provide production report and other information in the finishing of the
 higher authority

Finishing m/c wise process flow chart:


Squeezer machine
Dryer machine
Tube calendar machine
Tube compacting machine
QC inspection machine
Delivery

Chapter 8: Printing Section

Printing
Textile printing is the process of applying color to fabric in definite patterns or
designs. In properly printed fabrics the color is bonded with the fiber, so as to resist
washing and friction. Textile printing is related to dyeing but in dyeing properly the
whole fabric is uniformly covered with one color, whereas in printing one or more
colors are applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply defined patterns.

Machine List
SL Machine Name

01 Kuil (GP6800) Flatbed Machine-1

02 Kuil (GP6800) Flatbed Machine-2

03 INK Jet Exposeing Machine

04 CHT Digital Light Engraver Machine

05 Reggiani (Unica 240) Rotary Machine 1

06 Reggiani (Unica 240) Rotary Machine 2

07 Reggiani (Unica 240) Rotary Machine (Sample)

08 Reggiani (Unica 240) Digital Machine

09 SPG Print Leaser Engrave Machine (Smartlex-7043)

10 Salvade loop Steaming Machine

11 Unitech Stenter Machine

12 Erbatech Continuous Wash Machine

13 Lafer Compacting Machine

Machine Wise Details

Specifications Machine-1 Machine-2

Brand Kuil (GP 6800) Flat Bed Kuil (GP 6800) Flat Bed
printing
printing machine
machine

Manufacturer Company Kuil machinery industry Kuil machinery industry


[Link]. [Link].

Origin Daegu, Korea Daegu, Korea

Max Color 10 8
Max Dia 80”-84” 72”

Max repeat size for max 23.5” to 24.25” 23.5 to 24.25”


color

Max speed 1500 1500

Stoke in max speed 25-26 per min 26-27per min


(single color)

Machine Wise Details (expose)


1. Exposing machine:

Specifications Exposing Machine

Brand DS

Manufacturer Company DS company

Origin Korea

Print type Ink jet

Time required for 1 screen 18-20min

2. Development Machine :

Lax value of machine Up to 9999lax

Lighting time For Glitter= 90 to 99sec,


For 68T= 30 -35sec,
For 54T= 40 -45sec,
For 48T= 43 -48Sec

Type of light UV

3. Auto stitching machine


4. Computer Design (CAD)

Mash Specifications
1. 43T: EPI=115 per inch, mainly used for White & discharge color.
2. 54 T: EPI=135 per inch, mainly used for Pigment color & discharge color
3. 68 T: EPI=170 per inch, mainly used for sharp figure.
4. 30 T: EPI= 80/60 per inch, use for Glitter.

Screen Type & max Repeat


As-usually we use 3 types (size) of screen during printing though we have 4type
screen. The size and measurement along with repeat size is given bellow,
1. Small screen: 23” to 24.25”
2. Medium screen: 25.5 to 31”
3. Big screen: 37-38”
4. Hand screen: design H=15” Width= 14”

Specifications M/C -1 M/C -2

Height 105” 93.5 ”

Width 30”(29.25”)/38”(38.25”)/42”(42.25 ”) 30”(29.25”)/38”(38.25”)/42”(42.25”)

Screen Repeat Measurement


For Flatbed M/C: 1

Screen size Color Min repeat size Max repeat size

Small 9 25.25”

Small 10 24.25”

Medium 6 26” 27”

Medium 7 31” 32”


Medium 8 28” 30”

Big 6 35.25” 38”

Big 7 34” 35”

Flow chart

Artwork or Swatch receive from


Buyer

Design Development

Screen development

Strike -off by Machine


Send for Approval If not Approved

Approved

1st Bulk Production for approval

Send for Approval If not Approved

Approved

Bulk Production

Sop of Printing:
Purpose: To ensure the desired print as per buyer artwork. Following points should be
maintained.
Procedure:
1. Received Buyer Artwork: After receiving the print artwork or design form buyer.
Analyses the buyer artwork or de sign and design the process route as per buyer
quality manual which s/be followed for completing whole procedures.
2. Risk assessment analysis: After receiving the Buyer artwork and Buyer approve
strike off which type of print be used (reactive print, pigment print or discharge print)
on fabrics, based on this print type which process need to follow for obtaining Buyer
std. and which risk might be raised before starting sample or bulk submission of
approval purpose.

3. Design development: As per buyer artwork design have to develop for unit size or color
which will be need for buyer approval purpose prior to going bulk printing unit size should be
done for adjust color and measurement with buyer artwork.

4. Screen preparation: After design development for screen preparation, developed


design exposing on screen which is unit to be close all pores and design have to be
created on screen.

5. Design on the screen: After screen preparation design as per buyer artwork or
color design unit has to lie on the screen paper which must be done as per color.

6. Fabric received from QAD and Batch Preparation: After assuring the 100%
fabric quality through inspection report which is done by 4 -point inspection system
fabric received for AOP. After receiving the fabric again before printing like as dye
lots batch with careful as per batch quantity and color.

7. Set the design and color: Before printing designated screen must be set in
machine, print paste making then go to the next step as per color which are given
form byer.
8. Printing: After setting the m/c as per design print paste adhere on screen where the
fabrics absorbed the print paste according to design.

9. Drying: After fabrics s/be drying through dryer for properly adhere color on
fabrics.

10. Curing: For stability / Fix the color on printed fabrics must dry with required temp with
optimum m/c speed as per fabric type.

[Link]: For making the fabric softer and to achieve print fabric properties
required washing must be done in washing m/c.

12. Finishing: After washing printed fabrics must finish through stentering and
compacting then that must follow to achieve the buyer requirement (Print quality
fabric print shade, Dia, GSM, Shrinkage and others).

13. Inspection: After compacting the print fabrics QC concern must do the 100%
fabrics inspection through 4 -point inspection system. During drying fabrics hand feel
should be

checked and during compacting fabrics GSM, dia, and others quality should be
checked based on buyer std./hanger. If any findings/problem be raised then need to
take decision in commercial acceptance. If it not meets with buyer std. in commercial
view then it will be rejected and rejected goods must kept in permanent rejects area
and must separate from useable goods.
14. Submission/ Delivery: If all quality parameter as per buyer manual, then proceed
to submission for approval, after getting the buyer approval, Bulk printing will be
proceeded

Metro Knitting & dyeing mills ltd.


Dept.: Printing
Chemical & auxiliaries budget for Reactive Print

SL Chemical Name Per Percentage [Link]. Per 4


Day (KG Month month
(%)
Per ( KG) ( KG)
Print
Day)
Qty

01 Sodium Algenate 4 ton 5% 150 4500 18000

02 Sodium BiCarbonate 4 ton 4% 120 3600 14400

03 Sodium Hexameta 4 ton 0.50% 15 450 1800


Phospate

04 Resist Salt 4 ton 1.50% 45 1350 5400

05 Emultifire 4 ton 0.50% 15 450 1800

06 Leveling Agent 4 ton 1% 30 900 3600

07 Anti-blocking Agent 4 ton 0.50% 15 450 1800

08 Urea 4 ton 15% 450 13500 54000

*Qty may increase or decrease depending on orders

Continuous Wash Machine


Machine wise details
Specifications Machine

Brand ERBATECH Continuous Wash Machine

Origin Germany

Max Speed 70 m/min

Machine length 32m

Machine Width 3.1m

Chamber 7

Chanel 17

Chemical dosing line 10

Dram (wash) 2side

Temp Pigment: 50 ℃ ±5℃


Discharge: 60℃ -70℃
Reactive: 60 ℃ -90℃
Disperse: 60℃ -90℃
Burn out Not suitable

Water Required 6000L

Printing Recipe Book


Color: Green Fabrication 100% cotton

Drying Temp. 140 c Liquor Weight 100 kg

Process Name Description of Dyes & Chemicals KG Source

RUCO-COLOR GREEN ECO 5.000kg ARCHROMA

RUCO BINDER -8268 FF 20.00kg Rudolf Group

Printing Rucofine PSO 1.000kg Rudolf Group

Ruco - Coat FX 8021 1.000kg Rudolf Group

Lutexal HIT Plus liq 4.000kg ARCHROMA

Water 69.00kg

Color: Violet Fabrication 100% cotton

Drying Temp. 140 c Liquor Weight 100 kg

Process Name Description of Dyes & Chemicals KG Source

PRINTOFIX VIOLET FB -BT 3.000kg ARCHROMA

RUCO BINDER -8268 FF 12.00kg Rudolf Group

Printing Rucofine PSO 1.000kg Rudolf Group

Ruco - Coat FX 8021 1.000kg Rudolf Group

Lutexal HIT Plus liq 4.000kg ARCHROMA

Water 79.00kg

Printing Recipe Book

Color: L. Yellow Fabrication 100% cotton


Drying Temp. 140 c Liquor Weight 100 kg

Process Name Description of Dyes & Chemicals KG Source

PRINTOFIX LEMON YELLOW FF -G 3.000kg ARCHROMA

RUCO BINDER -8268 FF 12.00kg Rudolf Group

Printing Rucofine PSO 1.000kg Rudolf Group

Ruco - Coat FX 8021 1.000kg Rudolf Group

Lutexal HIT Plus liq 4.000kg ARCHROMA

Water 79.00kg

Printing Recipe Book

Color: Black Fabrication 100% cotton

Drying Temp. 140 c Liquor Weight 100 kg

Process Name Description of Dyes & Chemicals KG Source

PRINTOFIX BLACK F -HDT 5.000kg ARCHROMA

RUCO BINDER -8268 FF 20.00kg Rudolf Group

Printing Rucofine PSO 1.000kg Rudolf Group

Ruco - Coat FX 8021 1.000kg Rudolf Group

Lutexal HIT Plus liq 4.000kg ARCHROMA

Water 69.00kg

PIGMENT COLOR LIST


Trade Name Source Dyestuffs Application
Type

PRINTOFIX CREMSON ECO ARCHROMA PIGMENT PRINTING

PRINTOFIX BRILLIANT ORANGE FF -RT ARCHROMA PIGMENT PRINTING

PRINTOFIX LEMON YELLOW FF -G ARCHROMA PIGMENT PRINTING

PRINTOFIX ROUAL BLUE Conc ARCHROMA PIGMENT PRINTING

RUCO - COLOR GREEN ECO Rudolf Group PIGMENT PRINTING

PRINTOFIX VIOLET FB -BT ARCHROMA PIGMENT PRINTING

PRINTOFIX GOLDEN YELLOW ECO ARCHROMA PIGMENT PRINTING

PRINTOFIX BLACK F -HDT ARCHROMA PIGMENT PRINTING

Chemicals List

Trade Name Source Chemicals Type Application

RUCO BINDER -8268 FF Rudolf Group AYCRALIC PRINTING


POLYMER

Lutexal HIT Plus liq ARCHROMA THICKNER PRINTING

Rucofine PSO Rudolf Group Softener for White PRINTING

Ruco - Coat FX 8021 Rudolf Group Fixing agent PRINTING

BUYER: CALZEDONIA
Inst No: 18 -01061
Design No: 10666/1
NERO

S/No Color & Chemical Name Percentage

01 PRINTOFIX Black HRT 5%

02 PRINTOFIX Blue CONC 2.50%

03 Binder (8268) 20%

04 Binder (77N) 7%

05 RUCO Fix (8021) 2%

06 PSO 1%

07 SIG 1%

08 ME-50(Oxal -R) 0.3

Printing Machine Details:


Specifications Machine -1 Machine -2 Sample

Type Rotary Bulk Machine Rotary Sample Rotary Sample

Brand REGGIANI REGGIANI REGGIANI

UNICA 240 UNICA 240 UNICA 240


Model

Manufacturer REGGIANI Machine REGGIANI Machine REGGIANI Machine


Company

Origin Italy Italy Italy

Max Color 15 15 15

Max Dia 90” (245CM)

Repeat size 640,725,819,914,1018 640,725,819,914,1018 640,725,819,914,1018

Color Head 15 2 2

Max speed 90m/Min

Dryer Length 9M Not available Not available

Chamber(2m long) 4 Not available Not available

Fabric req for pass 24M Not available Not available


dryer

No of passes 3 Not available Not available

Max temp in dryer

Temp generate by Steam

Screen Length

Machine length

Stenter Machine:
Specifications Machine -1

Type Stenter Machine

Brand Unitech

Model RED EV07/D.F/8k/240 GAS

Manufacturer Company Unitech Industries S.r.l

Origin Italy

Max Dia 88” (240Cm)

Min Dia 39” (99Cm)

Centering device 2

Max speed 70M/Min

PLC Monitor available 4

Chamber 8

No of Burner 8

Max temp in dryer 210 degree

Temp generate by Gas

Specialty from others Mahalu device

Per day production 12tons

Production comparison 3% Less than Brukner

Loop Steamer Machine


Specifications Machine

Brand Salvade Continuous steaming Plant

Origin Italy

Process available Curing, Steaming

Chamber Length 8m

Voltage needed 400V

Heat Generate by Thermo Boiler & Steam Boiler

Production capacity (in Tons) Curing 10/day & Steaming 4/day

Flow Chart for Rotary Screen Exposing

Screen import
Unpack Screen
Screen Rounding
Screen Coating
Cold Dry
Expose
Developing
Curing
End Ring Setting & Fixing
Check
Ready Screen

Chapter 9: Sample Section


Over View of sample:
Sampling is one of the most important processes in garments industry which has a
vital role in attracting the buyers. Normally buyers are placed an order after satisfying
with the quality of samples. Sampling is one of the main processes in Garment
Industry and it has a vital role in attracting buyers. Because the buyers generally place
the order after they are satisfied with the quality of the sample. Buyer always kept
special eyes on sample. Because bulk production always done following sample.

Types of samples:
 Buying sample or Development Sample.
 Photo samples or Fit samples.
 Approved sample.
 Counter samples.
 Size set samples.
 Pre-production samples (PP Sample).
 Gold seal sample.
 Shipment sample.

Organogram:
 Sr. AGM
 Sr. Manager
 Manager
 Executive
 [Link]
 Officer
 Supervisor
 [Link] Man
 Marker Man
 Wheel Man
 Sample Man
 Cutting Man
 Iron Man & Fold man

Process Flow Chart:


Design sheet from merchandiser
Technical manager for costing
Merchandising costing to buyer
If ok, go to the technical manager for sample make
Pattern making
Sample In charge
Sample operator
Sent to buyer through merchandiser

Machineries used:
 CAD
 CAM
 Marker printing machine

Major Operation:

Design or Sketch:
It is nothing but one kind of engineering art including all measurement of a
particular style.

Basic Block:
It is an individual component of garments without any design or style.

Working Pattern:
To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension.

Problem of Production or Production Related Matter:


Production related problems should be eliminated in this step.

Approved Sample:
The sample which is approved by the buyer is called approved sample.

Send to Buyer:
When all process is done, then the garments are sent to buyer.

Production Pattern:
To make a pattern for a particular style with net dimension along with allowance.

Product evaluation process:


 Gain a full understanding of the sample development proces.
 Able to plan a development process suitable for your company.
 Awareness of reducing development and company costs and improve customer
service.
 Find ways of minimizing risk factors and meximizing quality parameters.
 Economic/market place needs are identified.
 Forming first concepts/ideas.
 Developing concepts into prototype sample
 Modifying prototype untill approved.
 Amendments to specification.
 Finalised first sample & specification to retailing.

Chapter 10: Garment section


Introduction:
Garment industry is a unique recognition of the economy of Bangladesh. There are
several Garments industry established all over the country, among them PANAM is
one of them. It has some concern factory among them "Metro knitting and dyeing
mills ltd is one of them it has more than 50 buyers on over the world. "PANAM
GROUP" trust on quality, they make relation with quality. They always maintain the
rules and regulation. They assist their worker and staff most and they work together
like family that's why they can meet the shipment within time, in this way they
keeping their reputation and growing their business field day by day. In the Garments
are decorated by several kinds of modern machine so that they can fulfil the consumer
demand. In the Garment section they use the Lean Manufacturing tools so that they
can get optimum output without wastage raw material and time and so one.

Garments Included Departments:


➢ Merchandising

➢ Marketing

➢ CAD Sampling

➢ Planning

➢ Cutting

➢ Sewing

➢ Industrial Engineering (IE)

➢ Garments Printing

➢ Garments Finishing

➢ Garments Washing

➢ Garments Dyeing

➢ Trims & Accessories

➢ Quality Assurance (QA)

Operation Sequence:
Merchandising
Cutting
Sewing
Garment Finishing
Quality Assurance (QA)
Figure: 8.1 Operation Sequence

Chapter 11: Cutting section


Organgram:
 Cutting Manager
 [Link] Manager
 Executive
 Supervisor
 Lay Man
 Cutting Man
 [Link] Man
 Loader
 Other

Introduction to Cutting:
Cutting is one of the major processes in garments manufacturing. Here garments parts
are cutting according to the pattern. In garments cutting department, a process flow
chart have to maintained to send the right measurement parts in the next process for
making quality garments.

Objectives of Cutting:
 The objective of cutting is to convert fabric into suitable size & shape to make
a garment. It is the first step of making a garment.
 Cutting according to master pattern with 100% accuracy.
 Ensuring 100% quality in cutting.

Process Sequence for Cutting Section:


Received fabric from dyeing finishing
Inspection and shade check by QC team
Fabric relax for at least 24 hours
Marker making by CAD
Fabric spreading
Marker placing on the ley
Cutting
Shorting
Numbering (Country and size wise sticker)
100% Inspection and rejected parts replacing
Bundling
Shorting
Print/Embroidery
Delivery to sewing input section
Figure: Process Sequence for Cutting Section:

Machinery Used for Cutting:


Straight Knife Cutting M/C:
Straight knife cutter machine is the most used cutting instrument for of Straight Knife
Cutting m/c are-
➢ A base plate, which placed on wheels for easy movement.

➢ A stand.

➢ Vertical blade.

➢ An electric motor.

➢ Safety guard for blade

Band Knife Cutting M/C:


➢ Band knife cutter is endless and looks like a loop.

➢ Band knife is fixed but fabric is moveable.

➢ Saw - Mill technique is applied for fabric cutting.

➢ Small or Block pieces of fabric required to cut.

Fabric Relaxation:
When the fabric comes from the dyeing and finishing, the fabric remains a slightly
hot. In dryer, stenter and compactor heat is applied on fabric. So moisture is removed
from the fabric and it is not in actual condition. But if we keep the fabric in normal
temperature and pressure for a certain time, the fabric absorbs moisture from the
atmosphere and regains its original nature. This process is called fabric relaxation.
Another cause of fabric relaxation is to maintain the dimensional stability of produced
garments. When the fabric is being processed in different finishing machines, it goes
under certain heat and pressure to give it proper shape. But when the heat and
pressure is being withdrawn, the shape may change. So, if the dimension is became
stabilized before cutting, no chance of strain in garments. So relaxation is very
necessary before cutting.
Standard Relaxation time based on Fabric type:

Fabric type Fabric GSM composition


Relaxation time

Single jersey 100% Cotton 12.00 hours 120-180

Single jersey CVC / PC 12.00 hours 120-180

Single jersey Lycra mixed 24.00 hours 120-180

Interlock 100% Cotton 12.00 hours 150-220

Interlock CVC / PC 12.00 hours 150-220

Interlock Lycra mixed 24.00 hours 150-220

Pique Pique 12.00 hours 150-260


Lacoste100%Cott
on

Pique Double 12.00 hours 160-220


Lacoste100%Cott
on

Pique Honeycomb 12.00 hours 220-250


100% Cotton

Pique CVC / PC 12.00 hours 220-250

Pique Lycra blend 24.00 hours 220-250

Fleece brush / 100% Cotton 12.00 hours 260-350


Terry

Fleece CVC / PC 12.00 hours 260-350

Fleece Lycra mixed 24.00 hours 260-350

Rib 1 / 1 100% Cotton 24.00 hours 150-220

Rib 2 / 2 CVC / PC 24.00 hours 150-220


Fabric Spreading:
Spreading means the smooth laying out of the fabric in superimposed layers of
specific length. The cutting marker paper is laid in the top of the fabric layer. During
spreading number of the plies should be not more than three hundreds but it depends
on the thickness of the fabric and the height of the cutting knife.

Types of Fabric Spreading:


1 Automatic Spreading
2 Manual Spreading

Ideal Lay height of fabric spreading:

Fabric type No. of ply Lay height

Single jersey 90-100 3”

Rib 60-70 2.5”

Lycra 80 2.5-3”

Viscose 70 1.5”

fleece 55-60 3”

Pique 70-80 2.5-3”

Marker making:
Marker is a thin paper which contains all the pattern pieces of a garment. It is made
just before cutting and its purpose is to minimize the wastages. The width of a marker
is equal to the width of the fabric and it should not be greater than the with of the
fabric i.e. the width of the marker is kept less than or equal to the width of the Fabric.
The pattern pieces should be placed very carefully in such a way that it will obviously
minimize wastages.

Objects of marker making:


 To reduce cost.
 To improve the quality of the garments.
 To reduce the cutting time.
 To facilitate large scale production.

Fabric Cutting:
Introduction to Cutting:
Cutting is one of the major processes in garments manufacturing. Here garments parts
are cutting according to the pattern. In garments cutting department, a process flow
chart have to maintained to send the right measurement parts in the next process for
making quality garments.

Methods of Fabric Cutting:


Fabric cutting methods are as follows:
Manual Method:
 Scissor.
 Straight knife.
 Band knife.
 Round knife.
 Die cutting.
 Notcher.
 Drill etc.

Computerized Method:
 Straight knife cutting
 Water jet cutting
 Laser beam cutting, and
 Plasma torch cutting etc.

Numbering:
In this stage sticker is attached with all part of cutting part for shade matching. The
sticker number maintains cutting number, size number, serial number.
Bundling:
Prepare bundling card according to fabric lay report this card maintain.
 Date
 Style No
 Size Number
 Card Serial
 Quantity
 Color
 Lot Number

Product Evaluation Process:


 Shade check with buyer approved swatch
 Check GSM
 Running shade check
 Roll wise shade check
 Batch to batch shade check
 Shrinkage test
 Marker check
 Cutting panel check
 Pattern check
 Shape check of different parts
 Measurement check
 Check number of different parts in bundle
Chapter 12: Sewing Section
Introduction:
Sewing is the operation where all cutting pieces are assembled to produce garments of
a particular style using different types of sewing machines. Here, for a particular style
of garments a particular order operation, breakdown, layout plan, short cycle time and
finally line balancing are done to proceed the operation smoothly and to study about
man power utilization and their efficiency.

Types of Sewing Machine:


 Single Needle Machine (chain/Lock stitch)
 Double Needle Machine (chain/Lock stitch)
 Over lock Machine
 Feed of the Arm
 Flat Lock
 Button hole Machine
 Button attach machine
 Bar tack m/c
 Piping m/c
 Thread Cutter m/c

Process Sequence for Sewing Section:


Receive cut panel from input section
Inventory inspection
Pre-production meeting about cut panel
(Defected panel return to input section)
Receive machinery layout from planning section
Arrange the machinery according to planning
Start sewing process
All styling check with c/s trail
Critical process check 100%
Inline inspection
Out put
End table check 100%
Delivery
Figure: Process Sequence for Sewing Section:

Sewing Sequence of T-Shirt:


Number matching front 2 back part
Shoulder stitching (By over lock m/c)
Neck rib truck (By plain m/c)
Neck rib sewing by plain m/c
Part Neck top seam
Shoulder to shoulder back
Top size label sewing
Shoulder to shoulder back top seam
Sleeve marking & no matching with parts
Sleeve tuck with body parts
Sleeve joint with the body parts
Side sewing and care label joint
Side sewing & care label joint
Bottom hem sewing
Arm bottom hem joint
Inspection
Sewing Quality checking points:
 Skip/Drop/Broken stitch
 Raw edge
 Size mistake
 Uneven hem
 Uneven euff
 Uneven neck
 Uneven shoulder
 Uneven placket
 Uneven pocket
 Twisting
 Without care label
 Open tack
 Sleeve up-down
 Stripe up- down
 Open seam etc.

Product evaluations process:


 Calculate the production capacity
 To establish proper layout of the sewing floor
 To provide accurate guideline for the floor supervisor, floor quality ,line chief
and other person of the floor
 To solve any problem of the floor, it may production problem, worker problem
etc.
 To provide production report and other information in the floor of the higher
authority
 To look after the floor
 To maintain the line chief line quality line supervisor and other persons of the
floor
 To solve any problem of any line in the sewing floor
 To maintain line input and output materials
 To find out per line production capacity of the sewing floor.
Sewing Machine Description:

Machine Properties and Uses

Plain Machine  One needle, two needle


 One hook
 Two threads
 One magnate guide
 Bottom hemming
 Belt top stitch
 Flap makes
 Flap top stitch
 Loop tack stitch
 Belt joint stitch
Uses:

Over lock Machine Properties:


 5 threads
 4 tensioners
 2 knifes (up/down)
 2 needles for 5 threads
 1 Needle for 3 threads
 3 loppers for thread
 2 loppers for 3 threads
Uses:
 Over lockstitch

Flat lock Machine Properties:


 4 Tensioners
 3 threads
 Contain a holder
 2 needles Uses:
Uses:
 Zigzag stitch
 Knit hemming
 Loop making
Button Holing Machine Properties:
 2 threads
 1 needle
 2 Tensioners
 Contains bobbin case, hook & knife
Uses:
 To create hole for button attaching in garment

Button Attaching Machine Properties:


 Button attached by lock stitch doesn’t look near
however it provides greater safety.
Uses:
 To attach the button

Bar tack Machine Properties:


 Bar tack machine provides forward and
backward stitching in short length (about 6cm)
and sew a dense tack.
 Bar tack containing 18-72 stitches options to
change stitch density.
Uses:
 Secure pocket corners
 Secure open end of button hole
 Decorative purposes

Sewing Defect:
➢ Skip Stitch

➢ Open Seam

➢ Scissor Cut

➢ Part Shading

➢ Broken Stitch

➢ Four Point Up-Down


Machinery Used according to Operation:
Operation M/C used
➢ Shoulder join : Over lock

➢ Sleeve join : Over lock

➢ Label join : Single needle lock stitch machine

➢ Neck top stitch : Flat lock

➢ Sleeve hem. : Flat lock

➢ Side seam : Over lock

➢ Bottom join : Over lock

➢ Bottom hem : Flat lock

➢ Sleeve re-cutting : Over lock

➢ Motif attachment : Single needle lock stitch machine

➢ Piping attachment : Single needle lock stitch machine

➢ Label attaching : Single needle lock stitch machine

Accessories:

➢ Collar stand.

➢ Carton

➢ Carton Sticker

➢ Hanger

➢ Tag pin

➢ Poly bag

➢ Hand tag

➢ Plastic clip

➢ Price ticket
Chapter 13: Garment Finishing Section
Introduction:
The Garments Finishing Section is the final and one of the most important
departments in the garment manufacturing process at Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills
Ltd. This section is responsible for giving the final appearance, quality assurance,
packaging, and preparation for shipment of the finished garments. It ensures that the
garments meet buyer specifications in terms of look, measurements, labeling, and
packaging.
8.15.1 General Information about Garment Finishing Section:
Production Capacity (Finished Garments): 5 million pieces per month
Sewing Lines: Around 145 sewing lines are in operation
Garment Dyeing: 200,000 (0.2 million) pieces/month
Garment Washing: 600,000 (0.6 million) pieces/month

Process Sequence in Finishing Section:


Thread sucking
Quality check
Spot removing
Pressing/ironing
Gate up check
Measurement check
Size check
Add hanger Assortment
Cartooning
Packing
Operations in the Finishing Section:
1. Thread Trimming
* Loose threads are removed manually or by using thread-sucking machines.
* Ensures a clean and tidy appearance of garments.
2. Initial Ironing / Pressing
* Removes wrinkles from garments before measurement or inspection.
* Uses steam irons and vacuum tables.
3. Measurement Checking
* Garments are checked against buyer-provided measurement sheets (specs).
* Samples are measured randomly from each bundle/lot.

4. Visual Inspection
* Garments are checked for defects: stains, skipped stitches, puckering, holes,
shading, etc.
* Uses AQL (Acceptable Quality Limit) system.
5. Spot Removal
* If any stains are found, garments go through stain removal machines or are cleaned
using chemical sprays (e.g., peroxide, acetic acid).
* Done in a ventilated, designated area.
6. Final Ironing
* After all inspections and corrections, garments are pressed neatly.
* Helps maintain shape and appearance.
7. Tagging / Labeling
* Price tags, size tags, barcode stickers, and other branding items are attached.
* Ensures compliance with buyer requirements.
8. Folding & Packing
* Garments are folded according to buyer instructions (flat pack/hanger pack).
Placed in poly bags with size stickers and seals.
* Packed into cartons with correct shipping marks and barcodes.

Machines Used:
 Steam irons
 Vacuum pressing tables
 Thread-sucking machines
 Stain removal guns
 Needle detectors (for metal-free assurance)

Product evaluation process:


 Getup check
 Measurement check
 Final garments inspection
 Ratio wise packing inspection

Packing Area:
Well-ventilated and organized with sufficient tables, carton stackers, and
vacuum packing machines, capable of handling high-volume daily shipment
loads.
8.15.7 Carton & Packaging
Cartons are labeled with:
o Buyer Name
o PO Number
o Style Name
o Quantity
o Size-wise breakdown
Final cartons are shrink-wrapped or strapped for safety.
Chapter 14: Quality section

About Quality:
Quality Control: Quality control means meeting or exceeding customer expectation
on a continuous basis. This means that in order to control quality one must know the
customer’s expectation. Quality is usually made into board room.
Quality Assurance: The decisions, plan and actions that are necessary to provide
adequate confidence that a product or service will satisfy given requirement for a
Particular quality. The purpose of QA to ensure certain quality.
Object of Quality Control:
* Research or analysis
* Selection of raw material
* Specification test
* Process control
* Process development
* Product development
* Should be given economic requirements
* Quality assurance and so on.

Types of Quality Assurance System:


Quality assurance system consists of two types. They are:

Online Quality Control System:


This type of quality control is carried out without stopping the production process.
During the running of production process, a setup is automatically performing and
detects the fault and also takes corrective action. Online quality control comprises
with the raw material quality control and the process control.
 Raw material control
 Process control

Offline quality assurance system:


This type of system consists of quality measuring system when the production process
completed. All off line tests for finished fabrics (dyeing and finishing section) can be
grouped as follows:
Physical tests: Following physical tests are carried out in offline quality assurance
system.
 Thread per inch
 Fabric weight
 Width test
 Seam slippage
 Abrasion resistance
 Thermal stability
 Crease resistance
 Stretch ability & growth recovery.
 Chemical tests: Following chemical tests
 Fastness to washing
 Fastness to light
 Fastness to heat
 Fastness to actual laundering
 Fastness to sea water
 Fastness to chlorinated water
 Fastness to perspiration

AQL (Acceptable Quality Level):


A certain proportion of defective will always occur in any manufacturing process. If
the percentage does not exceed a certain limit, it will be economical to allow the
defective to go through instead of screening the entire lot. This limit is called the
"Acceptable Quality Level" (AQL). Normally for Garment industry, the AQL levels
of 2.5, 4.0 and 6.5 are followed.
10.5 Textile Care Symbols:
Chapter 15: Merchandising
Introduction:
Merchandiser is the bridge or middle man between the industry and the buyer. He
have to look after every job like buying the raw material which is required to finish
the product, making the garment, finishing the garment, documentation, finally
shipping. He is the responsible person to make the product. A garment export unit
generally has many department like stores, cutting, production, packing, checking etc.
in which Merchandising department a linking device of all. The job of a merchandiser
is to coordinate with the entire department in the office as well as the customers. The
merchandiser is the one who creates a good relationship in between exporter & buyer.
Merchandise means goods bought and sold; and trading of goods. The term
merchandising is related with trade. Trade means buying & selling. The person who
deals with trade, he/she is a merchandiser (the person who involves in buying and
selling, he is a merchandiser). Merchandiser is the bridge or middle man between the
industry and the buyer. Merchandising is an activity of selling and promoting the
goods. The activities of a merchandiser are known as merchandising.
Responsibilities of Merchandiser:
 Sample development
 Price negotiation
 Order confirmation
 L/C opening
 Opening summery
 Sourcing
 Material collection
 Production planning
 Production monitoring
 Quality assurance
 Arrange final inspection
 Arrange shipment
Process flow chart of Merchandising:
Talk to buyer for sample development
Negotiation with buyer & collect order
Co
Sample making
Get approval & placement of order
Collect accessories for production
Line balancing
Production monitoring
Inspection
Documentation preparation for banking
Shipment
Chapter-11
UTILITY and MAINTENANCE

List of Major Utilities Management in MKDML:


 Water
 Electricity
 Steam Compressed Air
 Water Treatment Plant Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP)
Water Treatment Plant (WTP):
In a textile processing plant, water is a vital raw material not only for the boilers
supplying steam for heating and drying purpose, but also for the all processes of wet
processing such as scouring, bleaching dyeing, printing and finishing. Water with a
high degree of purity is rarely obtainable from natural source.
Supplies of water may be broadly classified into three groups-
 Surface water
 Subsoil water
Deep well water in Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. deep well water is used for
wet processing units because water from deep wells is collected from a considerable
depth below the ground. Such water is generally free from organic matters due to
filtration and bacterial action. The mineral content, however, may be very high
because of prolonged contact with several layers of rocks and soil.

Steam Boiler:
Steam is an important utility for dyeing section. Steam produced by the boiler Supply
water is simply treated in the boiler section by the two softener tanks. Then, water
reserves to the feed water tank & this feed water tank warms the water then water
passes to the boiler which produces steam & that steam.
Main parts of the boiler:
 Gas Chamber

 Blower
 Gauge glass
 Safety Devices
 Safety valve
 Pressure gauge
 Burner
 Steam trap
 Water level controller
 Alarm system

Machine Description:
 Boiler No of boiler : 02
 Type of boiler : Horizontal, Fire-Tube Boiler
 Brand : Cochran (UK)
 Capacity : 10 tons/hour per boiler
 Fuel : Natural Gas and Diesel (Dual-fuel capable)
 Steam Consumption : Varies by department; approx. 15–18 tons/day in total
 Steam pressure : 7.5 bar (kg/cm²)
 Steam temp : ~188°C
 Boiler Temp : 90–105°C (Feed Water Entry)
 Feed water Quality : Softened and Treated Water (using water softener +
filtration system)
 Power Consumption : Approx. 7–9 kW per boiler for blower fan, control
panel, and pumps
 Applications : Used in Dyeing Machines, Dryers, Pressing (Finishing),
Garment Washing & ETP

Generator
 Total Generator : 4 (3 Gas Generators + 1 Diesel Backup Generator)
 Types : Gas Generators, Diesel Backup Generator
 Brand : Perkins Qty 1, Waukesha Qty 3 (Gas Generator)
 Model : P-330E
 Origin : Perkins (UK), Waukesha (USA)
 Capacity : 400 kW, 900 kW

Maintenance
Maintenance is the process by which equipment's are looked after in such a way that
can give the best possible service. All the machines and machine parts of knitting,
dyeing and garments are maintained with extreme care Inters off Apparels Ltd. has a
maintenance department with skilled engineers. Fitters & operators.
11.5.1 Objectives of Maintenance:
 To keep the fact, plants, equipment's, machine tools in optimum working
condition.
 To increase production & improve quality by minimizing the downtime of the
machine.
 To modify the machine tools to meet the need for production.

11.6 Preventive Maintenance:


Preventive maintenance is a predetermined activity to ensure on time inspection &
checking of facilities & uncover conditions that may lead to production breakdown.
Maintenance is done according to routine once in a month. Schedule maintenance
varies. Time in time & depends on situations according to type of machines.
11.7 Break down Maintenance:
Break down maintenance is done instantly when problem arises in the machine. In
thiscase, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it cannot perform its
normal functions. So, the defects are then rectified & the maintenance department
solves problems.
11.8 Equipment of Maintenance:
 Star screwdriver
 Small screwdriver
 Large screwdriver
 Small adjustable wrench
 Hammer (optional)
 Cleaning brush (narrow. nylon)
 Flat driver
 Medium flat drive
Weekly Maintenance
 All belt tight/adjusting
 All bearing cleaning

 Gear oil checking/ranking


 Fan filter cleaning
 Panel board cleaning.
Monthly Maintenance:
 Checking all control panel
 Lubrication of all motors bearing
 All cable terminal tight
 Cleaning & Maintenance

DISCUSSION:
Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. is a joint manufacturer & exporter. Metro
Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. is committed to the best human workplace practices.
Their goal is to continuously improve their human resource policies and procedures
through education, training, communication and employee involvement. Right from
inception the policy of the company has been to provide total customer satisfaction by
offering quality garment in time. Working on new concepts in styling & content of the
garment is a continuous activity in Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. with an
objective to up the quality and the value of merchandise. To meet the commitments of
quality and prompt delivery, Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. Decided to integrate
the manufacturing process in a planned manner. For achieving their goal, Metro
Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. has recruited a high profiled human resource team. The
production is controlled by skill persons. All of the decision makers of production
sector in Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. are skill workers.
The goal of Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. is to get high production & to
maintain the quality of the product at a minimum cost. Metro Knitting & Dyeing
Mills Ltd. is notable to produce all types of garments. I think their accuracy will
increase to a maximum level. For sewing them is using modern m/c I think their
product quality will be higher. For cutting they are using manual straight knife cutting
m/c (though it has 1 automated cutting machine) but if they use computerized cutting
m/c instead of those manual straight knife then their accuracy will increase & their
efficiency will increase to a maximum level. I think if they improve the above things I
think their product quality, their efficiency & their accuracy will be maximum.

Chapter 16: Human Resource


ABOUT HR:
Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. is a major export-oriented knitwear company in
Bangladesh with a workforce between 6,000 to 20,000+ employees, with
approximately 60% female workers in its operations. The HR department oversees
workforce welfare, recruitment, training, and compliance.
12.2 RESPONSIBILITIES MANAGED BY HR :
 Recruitment & onboarding of workers (skilled and unskilled)
 Compliance with labor laws and BGMEA standards
 Welfare programs and training coordination
 Coordination with management (MD, directors) on workforce policies

HR Policies & Practices:


 Recruitment & Onboarding
Hiring through factory-run training programs, merit-based selection, and
orientation sessions. - EnEnsures female employment and workplace equality,
reflecting around 60% female workforce.
 Training & Development
Collaborates with the in-house Skill Development Center to conduct both
classroom and production-line training. - UpUpskilling via Competency-Based
Training (CBT) and BTEB certification within 3-month programs.
 Performance & Quality KPIs
Implements quality KPIs such as defect rejection rates, productivity targets,
and attendance metrics. - Regular performance reviews involving supervisors
and departmental coordination.
 Legal Compliance & Relations
Compliance with Bangladesh Labour Laws, BGMEA standards, minimum
wage, leave, overtime, and social insurance. - Manages industrial relations,
worker grievances, and union interactions.
 Employee Welfare
Organizes CSR-led welfare programs: educational scholarship, local
infrastructure projects, and healthcare camps.

Organizational Structure of HR
 HR Manager
 Assistant HR Manager
 Training Officer
 Welfare Officer
 Payroll Officer

Recruitment Process :
Vacancy Identified
Job Circular
CV Shortlisting
Interview
Final Selection
Joining Formalities

HR AND MANPOWER:
Metric Numbers
Total Employees ~16,000
Skilled Workers ~15,000
Supervisors / Managers ~1,000
Female Workforce ~9,000 (60%)
HR/Admin Staff 70–150
Training Throughput (Year) ~500+ trainees
Estimated Annual Turnover 10–15% (~1,600–2,400 workers)

Chapter 17: IMPACT OF INTERNSHIP


Knitting Section:
 Observed various type of knitting process.
 Observed various type of machine used in knitting section (Circular
 knitting m/c & Flat knitting M/C)
 Learn about different types of knitting fault.
 Learn about various yarn count.
 Learn about various type of knitting parts such as needle, came, sinker etc.
 Learn about 4 point system
 Learn about yarn count system.
 Learn about various types of yarn
 Learn about various types of cam setting.
 Learn about various GSM fabrics.

Dyeing Section:
 Observed various type of dying process after knitting.
 Observed different type of machines used in dyeing section.
 Learned about different type of dyeing machines.
 Observed the application of different chemicals for dyeing process.
 Observed and learned different type of fabric dyeing.
 Learn about different type of dyeing fault.

Dyeing finishing section:


 Learn about finishing after dyeing.
 Learn about various types of finishing machine
 Learn about heat set.
 Learn about the 4-point system.

Lab section:
 Learn about lab work.
 Learn about various process of lab section.
 Learn about various type of lab test process.
 Learn about various type of lab machine.
 Learn about various test procedure
 Learn about physical and chemical lab.

Sample Section:
 To know what types of sample is produced here.
 System of sample approval.
 To know what type of machine here.

Cutting Section:
 To know about cutting fabric.
 To know about method of cutting.
 Defect of cutting section.
 How to remove fabric wastage.

Sewing Section:
 To know about many type of sewing machine.
 To know about function of sewing machine.
 To know about sewing fault and their remedies.
 To know about total production of this section.

Finishing Section:
 To know about total production of this garments.
 To know about price tag, hang tag.
 To know about how to quality assurance.

Chapter 18: Conclusion


CONCLUSION:
The industrial training gives me the first opportunity to work in mills. It was a
practical experience beyond the normal academic learning. This training gave me
actual picture about man, machine, money, material, method and market and
interdependence. I have earn the direct practical knowledge about the raw materials,
actual running condition of the machine, works of technologist, administration.
Industrial training is an essential part for textile education because it minimizes the
gap between theoretical and practical knowledge and also increase my thinking level
about textile technology. I have completed my industrial attachment from Metro
Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. during two-month long industrial training at Metro
Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd. I learn about knitting, dyeing, Lab, finishing, store,
sample, cutting, sewing section, I learned the working procedure of various section
and their activities.

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