115682
115682
1
• NEVER LEAVE TOOL RUNNING UNATTENDED. TURN POWER Additional Safety Rules For Miter Saws
OFF. Don’t leave tool until it comes to a complete stop.
• CAUTION: FAILURE TO HEED THESE WARNINGS MAY RESULT
• DO NOT OPERATE ELECTRIC TOOLS NEAR FLAMMABLE
IN PERSONAL INJURY AND SERIOUS DAMAGE TO THE SAW.
LIQUIDS OR IN GASEOUS OR EXPLOSIVE ATMOSPHERES.
Motors in these tools may spark and ignite fumes. • DO-Protect electric supply line with at least a 15 ampere time-delay
fuse or a circuit breaker.
• EXTENSION CORDS. Make sure your extension cord is in good
condition. When using an extension cord, be sure to use one heavy • DO-Make certain the blade rotates in the correct direction and that
enough to carry the current your product will draw. An undersized the teeth at the bottom of the blade are pointing to the rear of the
cord will cause a drop in line voltage resulting in loss of power and miter saw.
overheating. The following table shows the correct size to use • DO-Be sure all clamp handles are tight before starting any operation.
depending on cord length and nameplate ampere rating. If in doubt, • DO-Be sure all blade and clamp washers are clean and recessed
use the next heavier gage. The smaller the gage number, the heavier sides of collars are against blade. Tighten arbor screw securely.
the cord. • DO- Keep saw blade sharp and properly set.
Minimum Gage for Cord Sets • DO-Keep motor air slots free of chips and dirt.
Volts Total Length of Cord in Feet • DO-Use blade guards at all times.
120V 0-25 26-50 51-100 101-150 • DO-Keep hands out of path of saw blade.
240V 0-50 51-100 101-200 201-300
• DO-Shut off power, disconnect cord from power source and wait for
Ampere Rating
saw blade to stop before servicing or adjusting tool.
More Not more AWG
• DO-Support long work with an outboard tool rest.
Than Than
• DON’T-Attempt to operate on anything but designated voltage.
0 - 6 18 16 16 14
6 - 10 18 16 14 12
• DON’T-Operate unless all clamp handles are tight.
10 - 12 16 16 14 12 • DON’T- Use blades larger or smaller than those which are
12 - 16 14 12 Not Recommended recommended.
• DON’T- Wedge anything against fan to hold motor shaft.
• DON’T-Force cutting action. (Stalling or partial stalling of motor can
cause major damage. Allow motor to reach full speed before cutting.)
• DON’T- Cut ferrous metals (Those with any iron or steel content) or
any masonry.
• DON’T-Use abrasive wheels. The excessive heat and abrasive
particles generated by them will damage the saw.
• DON’T-Allow anyone to stand behind saw.
• DON’T-Apply lubricants to the blade when it’s running.
• DON’T-Place either hand in the blade area when the saw is
connected to the power source.
• DON’T-Use blades rated less than 4800 R.P.M.
• DON’T-Attempt to cut small pieces (6") without clamping.
• DON’T-Operate saw without guards in place.
• DON’T-Perform any operation freehand.
2
• DON’T-Reach around or behind saw blade.
• DON’T-Place hands closer than 6 inches from the saw blade.
• DO NOT - Reach underneath the saw unless it is turned off and ON GUARD:
unplugged. The saw blade is exposed on the underside of the saw.
DANGER – KEEP AWAY FROM BLADE.
• DO NOT - Move either hand from saw or workpiece or raise arm until
blade has stopped.
• DO NOT - Use without Kerf Plate or when kerf slot is wider than 3/8".
ON TABLE: (2 PLACES)
CAUTION: Do not connect unit to electrical power source until complete
instructions are read and understood.
For your convenience and safety, the following warning labels are on
ALWAYS TIGHTEN ADJUSTMENT KNOBS BEFORE USE. KEEP
your miter saw.
HANDS 6" FROM PATH OF SAW BLADE. NEVER PERFORM ANY
ON MOTOR HOUSING: OPERATION FREEHAND. NEVER CROSS ARMS IN FRONT OF
WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, READ INSTRUCTION BLADE. THINK! YOU CAN PREVENT ACCIDENTS.
MANUAL BEFORE OPERATING SAW. DO NOT OPERATE SAW WITHOUT GUARDS IN PLACE. NEVER
WHEN SERVICING, USE ONLY IDENTICAL REPLACEMENT PARTS. REACH IN BACK OF SAW BLADE. ALWAYS WEAR EYE
ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION. PROTECTION. SHUT OFF POWER AND WAIT FOR BLADE TO STOP
ON MOVING FENCE: BEFORE SERVICING, ADJUSTING TOOL, OR MOVING HANDS.
ALWAYS ADJUST FENCE PROPERLY BEFORE USE. CLAMP
SMALL PIECES BEFORE CUTTING. SEE MANUAL.
3
Electrical Connection Specifications FIG. 1
Be sure your power supply agrees with the nameplate CAPACITY OF CUT
marking. 120 volts, AC/DC means that your saw will 48 degree miter left and right
operate on alternating or direct current. A voltage
48 degree bevel left: 3 degree right
decrease of 10 percent or more will cause a loss of power
and overheating. All DEWALT tools are factory tested. If 0 degree miter
this tool does not operate, check the power supply. Max. Height 3.9" Result Width 5.9"
Max. Width 7.9" Result Height 2.5"
Unpacking Your Saw 45 degree miter
Max. Height 3.9" Result Width 4.1"
Check the contents of your miter saw carton to make sure Max. Width 5.5" Result Height 2.5"
that you have received all parts. In addition to this
45 degree bevel
instruction manual, the carton should contain:
Max. Height 2.7" Result Width 5.9"
1. One No. DW705 miter saw. Max. Width 7.9" Result Height 1.7"
2. One No. 340285-01 32 tooth DEWALT 12" dia. saw DRIVE
blade
2000 watts out 13 amp motor
3. One blade wrench in wrench pocket shown in Fig. 2.
Cut helical gears with ball bearings
32 Tooth carbide blade, 4000 RPM FIG. 2
Familiarization Automatic electric brake
Your miter saw is fully assembled (except for the blade) in REAR OPERATING
the carton. Open the box and lift the saw out by the LOWER HANDLE
convenient carrying handle, as shown in Figure 1. GUARD
Place the saw on a smooth, flat surface such as a
Optional Accessories
GUARD
workbench or strong table. Extension, Work Support: DW7050
Used to support long overhanging workpieces, the work
Examine Figures 2 & 3 to become familiar with the saw
support is user assembled and stores conveniently under
and its various parts. The following section on adjustments
the saw table. Your saw table is designed to accept two
will refer to these terms and you must know what and
work supports; one on each side. RIGHT
where the parts are.
SIDE
Press down lightly on the operating handle and pull out the FENCE
lock down pin, as shown in Figure 4. Gently release the
downward pressure and allow the arm to rise to its full
height. Use the lock down pin when carrying the saw from MITER
one place to another. Always use the carrying handle to CLAMP
KNOB
transport the saw or the hand indentations shown in Fig. 3.
LOCK
DOWN
PIN
BLADE
WRENCH
MITER
LATCH
MITER
SCALE
BENCH
MOUNTING LEFT SIDE FENCE
HOLES CLAMPING KNOBS
4
Adjustable Length Stop: DW7051
Requires the use of one work support (see above). It
is used to make repetitive cuts of the same length
from 0 to 42".
Clamp: DW7052
Used for firmly clamping workpiece to the saw fence
FIG. 3 BRUSH TRIGGER for precision cutting
INSPECTION SWITCH CARRYING
SPINDLE CAP HANDLE Dust Bag: DW7053
LOCK Equipped with a zipper for easy emptying, the dust bag
BUTTON BEVEL will capture the majority of the sawdust produced.
STOP
NOTE: Deflector on dust spout channels debris to
MOTOR ground. Spout has a provision to attach a vacuum hose
HOUSING to collect sawdust. Lift dust spout to connect hose.
SELF-TAPPING
REAR Crown Molding Fence: DW7054 STUD
LOWER Used for precision cutting of crown molding.
GUARD
Kit Box: DW7056 LOCKNUTS STOP
LEFT Used to store and transport DW705 accessories. WASHER
SIDE AND SCREW
FENCE
CLAMPING BRACKET
MITER DW7050
CLAMP END PLATE
KNOB
MITER
LATCH MITER FIG. 4
SCALE BEVEL DUST
SCALE SPOUT
HAND BEVEL CLAMP LOCK
INDENTATION KNOB DOWN
PIN
TOP HOLE
(USE IF ON
LEFT SIDE)
KNOBS BOTTOM
HOLE
(USE IF ON
RIGHT SIDE)
BRACKET
DW7051
5
SAW BLADES: ALWAYS USE 12" SAW BLADES WITH 1" ARBOR
HOLES. SPEED RATING MUST BE AT LEAST 4800 RPM. Installing a New Saw Blade
APPLICATION BLADE NO. OF TYPE (UNPLUG THE MITER SAW)
DESCRIPT. TEETH OF CUT DO NOT CUT FERROUS METAL (THAT WITH AN IRON
OR STEEL CONTENT) OR MASONRY WITH THIS
Fine Trim Precision 60-100 Very MITER SAW.
Molding Ground Smooth
With the saw arm in the upper position, raise the lower
Carbide Splinter
guard as far as possible. Loosen (but do not remove) The
Free guard bracket screw, shown in Figure 5 until the guard
Trim, Framing, Combination 32-60 Smooth bracket can be raised enough to permit access to the
Pressure Treated Multi-Purpose Fast Cut blade screw. Hold the lower guard up and depress the
Decking spindle lock button with one hand and use the supplied
blade wrench in the other hand to loosen (clockwise) the
Aluminum Non-Ferrous 60-80 ------- left hand threaded blade screw.
Metal Cutting
NOTE: To use the spindle lock, depress the button as
shown and rotate the blade by hand until you feel the lock
Accessories engage. Continue to hold the lock button in to keep the
Recommended accessories for use with your tool are spindle from turning. Remove the blade screw and the
available at extra cost from your local service center. blade.
CAUTION: The use of any non-recommended accessory As shown in Figure 6 the inner clamp washer is installed
may be hazardous. first, then the blade adapter. The blade adapter is
designed to permit the use of saw blades with 1" arbor
If you need assistance in locating any accessory, please holes as well as those with 5/8" arbor holes.
contact DEWALT Industrial Tool Company, P.O. Box 158,
When using blades with 1" arbor holes, install the blade
626 Hanover Pike, Hampstead, MD 21074 or call DW7052
adapter over the spindle shaft and against the inner clamp
1-800-4-DEWALT (1-800-433-9258).
washer, as shown in the figure. Next, install the saw blade
making sure that the arbor hole in the blade fits on the
Bench Mounting blade adapter. Make sure that the teeth at the bottom of
Holes are provided in all four feet to facilitate bench the blade are pointing toward the back of the saw (away
mounting, as shown in Figure 2. (Two different sized holes from the operator). Install the outer clamp washer and
are provided to accommodate different sizes of screws. install the blade screw. Tighten firmly using the spindle
lock and the provided wrench (left hand threads). When
Use either hole, it is not necessary to use both.) Always
using saw blades with 5/8" arbor holes, remove the blade
mount your saw firmly to prevent movement. To enhance
adapter! Save it in a safe place for future use. The rest of
the tool’s portability, it can be mounted to a piece of 1/2"
the blade assembly is exactly the same.
or thicker plywood which can then be clamped to your
work support or moved to other job sites and reclamped. NEVER DEPRESS THE SPINDLE LOCK PIN WHILE
THE BLADE IS ROTATING.
NOTE: If you elect to mount your saw to a piece of
BE SURE TO HOLD THE GUARD BRACKET DOWN
plywood, make sure that the mounting screws don’t
AND FIRMLY TIGHTEN THE GUARD BRACKET
protrude from the bottom of the wood. The plywood must
SCREW WHEN YOU FINISH INSTALLING THE SAW
sit flush on the work support. When clamping the saw to
BLADE. FAILURE TO DO SO WILL CAUSE SERIOUS
any work surface, clamp only on the clamping bosses DAMAGE TO THE SAW.
where the mounting screw holes are located. Clamping at
any other point will surely interfere with the proper
operation of the saw. Rear Lower Guard
CAUTION: To prevent binding and inaccuracy, be sure Adjustment
the mounting surface is not warped or otherwise uneven. Check the rear lower guard to ensure that it is located
If the saw rocks on the surface place a thin piece of such that the saw blade is in the center and equidistant
material under one saw foot until the saw sits firmly on the from each side, as shown in Figures 6 & 7. Adjust as
mounting surface. necessary by loosening the two screws and moving the DW7053
guard. Firmly tighten both screws. Never remove this
guard.
6
FIG. 5 FIG. 8
Cutting the Kerf
In order to adjust and use your miter saw, you must cut a
slot through the kerf plate to allow for blade clearance. To
cut the kerf plate, set the saw at 0 degrees miter. Place a
piece of scrap wood on the saw at least 1"x6"x12". Turn
the saw on and allow the blade to reach full speed. Pull
the saw arm down as far as it will go and CUT SLOWLY
THROUGH THE SCRAP WOOD AND THE YELLOW
PLASTIC KERF PLATE. Turn the saw off and allow the
blade to stop before raising the saw arm.
Loosen and move the left side of the fence as far as it will
GUARD go to the left. Now adjust the bevel angle to 45 degrees.
BRACKET Once again, turn on the saw and and allow the blade to
SCREW reach full speed. Pull the arm down and cut slowly through
the wood and kerf plate again. (This procedure will widen
the kerf plate cut so that the blade will pass through it at
any angle from 0 to 45 degrees.)
FIG. 6
Be sure to adjust the left side of the fence (see page 8
DISTANCE FROM REAR LOWER Fence Adjustment) so that it’s as close to the saw blade as
FIG. 9 possible without interfering with arm up & down
BLADE MUST BE GUARD
EQUAL movement. Tighten the fence in position using both knobs.
INNER CLAMP
OUTER CLAMP WASHER
WASHER Transporting the Saw
TURN OFF AND UNPLUG THE MITER SAW BEFORE
ATTEMPTING TO MOVE IT OR MAKE ANY
BLADE ADJUSTMENTS WHAT-SO-EVER!
ADAPTER
In order to conveniently carry the miter saw from place to
MITER place, a carrying handle has been included on the top of
SCALE the saw arm, as shown in Figure 3. To transport the saw,
lower the arm and depress the lock down pin shown in
BLADE MITER
ADJUSTMENT SCREW Figure 4.
SCREW CLAMP
(three of these) KNOB NOTE: The saw arm cannot be fully lowered if the tool has
SAW BLADE MITER LATCH a blade installed unless the kerf plate has been cut. If you
wish to transport the saw before cutting the kerf plate,
FIG. 7 remove the saw blade.
Adjustments
PERFORM ALL ADJUSTMENTS WITH THE MITER
SAW UNPLUGGED
NOTE: Your miter saw is fully and accurately adjusted at
REAR LOWER MITER the factory at the time of manufacture. If readjustment due
GUARD POINTER to shipping and handling or any other reason is required,
SCALE
follow the steps below to adjust your saw.
Once made, these adjustments should remain accurate.
FIG. 10 Take a little time now to follow these directions carefully to
attain the accuracy of which your saw is capable.
7
MITER SCALE ADJUSTMENT – screws have been tightened properly to secure the BEVEL FIG. 11A
Place a square against the saw’s fence and blade, as adjustment against movement. HOUSING
shown in Figure 8. (Do not touch the tips of the blade teeth BEVEL STOP
with the square. To do so will cause an inaccurate
To set the 45 degree bevel stop, first loosen the left side
measurement.) Loosen the miter clamp knob (see Fig. 9)
fence clamping knobs and slide the left side fence as far
and swing the miter arm until the miter latch locks it at the
as it will go to the left. Move the arm to the left until it stops
0 miter position. Do not tighten the clamp knob. If the saw
on the left bevel stop screw. If the bevel pointer does not
blade is not exactly perpendicular to the fence, loosen the NOTCHES
indicate exactly 45 degrees, loosen the left side bevel stop
three screws that hold the miter scale to the base (shown
lock nut and turn the screw downwards. Move the arm to
in Fig. 9) and move the scale/miter arm assembly left or
the left and tighten the bevel clamp knob firmly when the
right until the blade is perpendicular to the fence, as
bevel pointer indicates exactly 45 degrees. Adjust the
measured with the square. Retighten the three screws. Pay
left side bevel stop screw upwards until it firmly touches
no attention to the reading of the miter pointer at this point.
the bevel stop. Retighten the nut while holding the screw
MITER POINTER ADJUSTMENT from turning.
Loosen the miter clamp knob and squeeze the miter latch To achieve 3 degree right bevel or 48 degree left bevel,
to move the miter arm to the zero position, as shown in the stop screws must be adjusted to allow the arm to
Figure 9. With the miter clamp knob loose allow the miter move to the desired location. The bevel stops will need FIG. 11B
latch to snap into place as you rotate the miter arm past readjustment to the zero and 45 degree positions after
zero. Observe the pointer and miter scale through the cuts are made.
viewing opening shown in Figure 10. If the pointer does not
indicate exactly zero, gently pry it left or right using a flat FENCE ADJUSTMENT
bladed screwdriver. Turn Off and Unplug the Miter Saw
In order that the saw can bevel to a full 48 degrees left,
BEVEL STOP ADJUSTMENT
the left side of the fence can be adjusted to the left to
Place the saw in the full up position. Loosen the right hand
provide clearance. To adjust the fence, loosen the two
lock nut and turn the stop screw counterclockwise, see
plastic knobs shown in Figure 13 and slide the fence to
Figure 12. Align the notches in the bevel housing and table
the left. Make a dry run with the saw turned off and check
as shown in Figure 11A. Place the smooth end of a 1/4"
for clearance. Adjust the fence to be as close to the blade
(6.3mm) drill bit into the notches to align the two housings
as practical to provide maximum workpiece support,
together. While the drill bit is in the notches turn the right
without interfering with arm up & down movement. Tighten
bevel stop screw counterclockwise until it is firmly in
both knobs securely. When the bevel operations are
contact with the bevel stop. Remove the drill bit. Hold the
complete, don’t forget to relocate the fence to the right.
stop screw in place while tightening the lock nut.
NOTE: The guide groove, shown in Figure 14, of the left
BEVEL POINTER side fence can become clogged with sawdust. If you
If the bevel pointer does not indicate zero, loosen the screw notice that it is becoming clogged, use a stick or some low
that holds it in place and move the pointer as necessary. pressure air to clear the guide groove.
SUGGESTION: The bevel pointer is quite thick and for FIG. 11C
GUARD ACTUATION AND VISIBILITY
accuracy’s sake set the top edge so that it aligns with zero.
The blade guard on your saw has been designed to
BEVEL SQUARE TO TABLE automatically raise when the arm is brought down and to
To align the blade square to the rotary table, lock the arm lower over the blade when the arm is raised.
in the down position. Place a square against the blade The guard can be raised by hand when installing or
taking care to not have the square on top of a tooth, as removing saw blades or for inspection of the saw. NEVER
shown in Figure 11B. If the blade is not square, adjust the RAISE THE BLADE GUARD MANUALLY UNLESS THE
set screws on the rear of the arm at the pivot pin as shown SAW IS TURNED OFF.
in Figure 11C. Loosen the bottom screw to move the top of NOTE: Certain special cuts will require that you manually
the blade to the right until the blade is aligned to the raise the guard.
square. Then tighten the top screw to lock the arm
adjustment securely. To move the top of the blade to the The front section of the guard is louvered for visibility while
left, first loosen the top screw then tighten the bottom cutting. Although the louvers dramatically reduce flying
debris, they are openings in the guard and safety glasses SET SCREWS
screw until the blade is aligned to the square. Be sure the
8
FIG. 14 should be worn at all times when viewing through the
louvers.
AUTOMATIC ELECTRIC BRAKE
FIG. 12 Your saw is equipped with an electric blade brake which
stops the saw blade within 5 seconds of trigger release.
BEVEL STOP GUIDE GROOVE This is automatic and requires no adjustment.
STOP SCREW Occasionally, under certain conditions, the brake will not
function properly and won’t stop the saw in the 5 seconds
as discussed above. If this condition occurs, turn the saw
on and off four or five times. If the brake still does not stop
BEVEL POINTER the blade in about 5 seconds, the problem may be worn
SCREW brushes. Replace the brushes as described below and try
the saw again. If the problem still persists, have the tool
LOCK NUT
serviced at a Black & Decker service center or company
authorized service facility.
Brushes
DISCONNECT PLUG FROM POWER SUPPLY
Inspect carbon brushes regularly by unplugging tool,
removing the brush inspection cap (Figure 3) and
withdrawing the brush assembly. Keep brushes clean and
sliding freely in their guides. Always replace a used brush
in the same orientation in the holder as it was prior to its
removal. Carbon brushes have varying symbols stamped
FIG. 13 FIG. 15 HOLE FOR PADLOCK into their sides, and if the brush is worn down to the line
closest to the spring, they must be replaced. Use only
identical DEWALT brushes. Use of the correct grade of
brush is essential for proper operation of electric brake.
New brush assemblies are available at Black & Decker
LEFT SIDE service centers. The tool should be allowed to “run in” (run
BEVEL STOP at no load) for 10 minutes before use to seat new brushes.
SCREW The electric brake may be erratic in operation until the
brushes are properly seated (worn in).
LEFT SIDE While “running in” DO NOT TIE, TAPE, OR OTHERWISE
FENCE LOCK THE TRIGGER SWITCH ON. HOLD BY HAND
CLAMPING ONLY.
KNOBS
Operation
Plug the saw into any 120 volt 60 Hz power source. Be
sure the cord will not interfere with your work.
TRIGGER
SWITCH SWITCH
To turn the saw on, depress the trigger switch as shown in
Figure 15. To turn the tool off, release the switch. There is
no provision for locking the switch on, but a hole is
provided in the trigger for insertion of a padlock to lock the
saw off.
9
CUTTING WITH YOUR SAW
NOTE: Although this saw will cut wood and many non-
ferrous materials, we will limit our discussion to the cutting
of wood only. The same guidelines apply to the other
materials. DO NOT CUT FERROUS (IRON AND STEEL)
MATERIALS OR MASONRY WITH THIS SAW. Do not
use any abrasive blades.
CROSSCUTS
A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the grain at
any angle. A straight crosscut is made with the miter arm
at the zero degree position. Set the miter arm at zero, hold
the wood on the table and firmly against the fence. Turn
on the saw by squeezing the trigger switch as shown in
Figure 15.
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower
the arm smoothly and slowly to cut through the wood. Let
the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some
angle other than zero. This angle is often 45 degrees for
making corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to 48
degrees left or right. After selecting the desired miter
angle, be sure to tighten the miter clamp knob. Make the
cut as described above.
PROPER CUT IMPROPER CUT
BEVEL CUTS FIG. 16
A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade at a
bevel to the wood. In order to set the bevel, loosen the
bevel clamp knob and move the saw to the left as desired.
(It is necessary to move the left side of the fence to allow
clearance as you did under “Bevel Stop Adjustment”.)
Once the desired bevel angle has been set, tighten the
bevel clamp knob firmly.
Bevel angles can be set from 3 degrees right to
48 degrees left and can be cut with the miter arm set
between zero and 48 degrees right or left.
QUALITY OF CUT
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of
variables. Things like material being cut, blade type, blade
sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other
precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a
slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that material does not creep while cutting, clamp it
securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop
before raising arm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the
workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood
where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and
carefully remove tape when finished. PROPER CUT IMPROPER CUT
10
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of
FIG. 17 FIG. 21 recommended saw blades for your saw and select the one
that best fits your needs.
A. B.
BODY AND HAND POSITION (SEE FIG. 16)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating
the miter saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and
safer. Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands
no closer than 6" from the blade. Hold the workpiece
tightly to the table and the fence when cutting. Keep hands
in position until the trigger has been released and the
FIG. 18
blade has completely stopped. ALWAYS MAKE DRY
RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO
THAT YOU CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE.
DO NOT CROSS HANDS, AS SHOWN AT LEFT.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper
balance. As you move the miter arm left and right, follow it
and stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight
through the guard louvers when following a pencil line.
CLAMPING THE WORKPIECE
V1 Turn Off and Unplug Saw
FIG. 19 ALWAYS CLAMP WOOD TO THE SAW WHEN
POSSIBLE. You can clamp to either side of the saw blade
KERF and remember to position your clamp against a solid, flat
PLATE surface of the fence. For best results use the DW7052
Clamp made for use with your saw. Available from your
dealer at extra cost.
MITER ARM
When cutting small pieces requiring your hand to be
dangerously close (within 6") to the saw blade, a clamp
ANGLE “A” MUST be used to prevent loss of control. The left fence
may be adjusted to aid clamping.
SUPPORT FOR LONG PIECES
CENTER MARK ON VERNIER SCALE ALIGNS WITH
Turn Off and Unplug Saw
DESIRED WHOLE ANGLE ON MITER SCALE (24°
RIGHT MITER) ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES
For best results, use the DW7050 extension work support
to extend the table width of your saw. Available from your
V2 dealer at extra cost. Support long workpieces using any
convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices
to keep the ends from dropping.
CUTTING PICTURE FRAMES, SHADOW BOXES AND
OTHER FOUR SIDED PROJECTS
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we
MITER suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap
SCALE wood until you develop a “FEEL” for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the
one shown in Figure 17. Sketch A in Figure 17 shows a
joint made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the
1/4° VERNIER MARK ALIGNS WITH CLOSET WHOLE edges of the two boards at 45 degrees each to produce a
DEGREE MARK ON MITER SCALE (24 1/4° RIGHT MITER) 90 degree corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked
FIG. 20
11
FIG. 22 CUTTING COMPOUND MITERS miter angles to the nearest 1/4 degree (15 minutes). To
A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and a use the vernier scale follow the steps listed below.
bevel angle at the same time. This is the type of cut used (As an example, let’s assume that the angle you want to
to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one miter is 24 1/4 degree right).
shown in Figure 18. 1. Turn off miter saw.
NOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check 2. Set the miter angle to the nearest whole degree desired
that the bevel clamp knob and the miter lock knob are by aligning the center mark in the vernier scale, shown
securely tightened. These knobs must be tightened after in figure V1, with the whole degree number etched in
making any changes in bevel or miter. the miter scale. Examine Figure V2 closely; the setting
shown is 24 degrees right miter.
The chart shown on page 13 will assist you in selecting the
proper bevel and miter settings for common compound 3. To set the additional 1/4 degree, squeeze the miter arm
miter cuts. To use the chart, select the desired angle “A” lock and carefully move the arm to the RIGHT until the
1/4 degree vernier mark aligns with the CLOSEST
(Figure 19) of your project and locate that angle on the
degree mark on the miter scale. In our example, the
appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the closest degree mark on the miter scale happens to be
chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and 25 degrees. Figure V2 shows a setting of 24-1/4
straight across to find the correct miter angle. degrees right miter.
Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial For settings that require partial degrees (1/4, 1/2, 3/4
in the zero position and the bevel adjustment was locked cuts. Practice fitting the cut pieces together until you develop degrees) align the desired vernier mark with the
at 45 degrees. The wood was positioned with the broad a feel for this procedure and feel comfortable with it. CLOSEST degree mark on the miter scale, as described
flat side against the table and the narrow edge against the Example: To make a 4 sided box with 25° exterior angles below (The plastic vernier plate is inscribed with marks for
fence. The cut could also be made by mitering right and (Angle A, Figure 19), use the upper right arc. Find 25° on 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and 1 degrees. Only the 1/2 degree and the 1
left with the broad surface against the fence. degree are numerically labeled.)
the arc scale. Follow the horizontal intersecting line to
CUTTING TRIM MOLDING AND OTHER FRAMES either side to get miter angle setting on saw (23°). WHEN MITERING TO THE RIGHT
Likewise, follow the vertical intersecting line to the top or To increase the miter angle when mitering to the right,
Sketch B in Figure 17 shows a joint made by setting the
bottom to get the bevel angle setting on the saw (40°). move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with
miter arm at 45 degrees to miter the two boards to form a the closest mark on the miter scale to the right. To
Always try cuts on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify
90 degree corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel decrease the miter angle when mitering to the right, move
settings on saw.
adjustment to zero and the miter arm to 45 degrees. Once the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the
again, position the wood with the broad flat side on the DUAL RANGE MITER SCALE closest mark on the miter scale to the left.
table and the narrow edge against the fence.
The miter scale has two ranges of numbers for WHEN MITERING TO THE LEFT
The two sketches in Figure 17 are for four side objects convenience, as shown in Figure 20. One scale indicates 0 To increase the miter angle when mitering to the left, move
only. degrees when the blade is square to the fence. At this the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the
As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and bevel position the other scale reads 90 degrees. closest mark on the miter scale to the left. To decrease the
angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for a The 0 degree scale (larger numbers closer to the front miter angle when mitering to the left, move the arm to align
variety of shapes. edge) is used when calculating angles. To calculate the the appropriate vernier mark with the closest mark on the
proper miter angle, divide 180 degrees by the number of miter scale to the right.
(The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length.) For sides of the box or frame. Refer to the chart on page 10 for
a shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following CUTTING BASE MOLDING
some examples.
formula. 180 degrees divided by the number of sides ALWAYS MAKE A DRY RUN WITHOUT POWER
The 90 degree scale (smaller numbers behind the zero BEFORE MAKING ANY CUTS.
equals the miter or bevel angle.
degree scale) is used when a corner of your box or frame
Straight 90 degree cuts –
- EXAMPLES - is measured with a protractor. For example: if you
measure the corner of an 8 sided box, the protractor will Position the wood against the fence and clamp it in
NO. SIDES ANGLE MITER OR BEVEL read 135 degrees. To determine the proper miter setting, place as shown in Figure 21. Turn on the saw, allow the
4 45° divide the measured angle by two. The proper miter setting blade to reach full speed and lower the arm smoothly
in this example is 67-1/2 degrees. Set this angle on the 90 through the cut.
5 36°
degree scale. This is most useful when a corner is at an CUTTING BASE MOLDING UP TO 3-7/8" HIGH
6 30° odd angle. VERTICALLY AGAINST THE FENCE
7 25.7° VERNIER SCALE Position molding as shown in Figure 22
8 22.5° Your saw is equipped with a vernier scale for added
9 20° precision. The vernier scale allows you to accurately set
10 18°
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All cuts made with the back of the molding against the OUTSIDE CORNER: FIG. 23
fence and bottom of the molding against the base Left side
INSIDE CORNER: 1. Position molding with bottom of molding against
Left side the base of the saw
2. Miter right 45°
1. Miter left 45°
3. Save left side of cut
2. Save left side of cut
Note: If the cut must be made somewhere other than
Right side
1" from the end of the molding: cut off the molding at
1. Miter Right 45°
90° approx. 1" longer than your final length then make
2. Save right side of cut
the miter cut as described above.
OUTSIDE CORNER:
Right side
Left side
1. Position molding with bottom of the molding
1. Miter right at 45° against the base of the saw
2. Save left side of cut 2. Miter left 45°
Right side 3. Save the right side of cut
1. Miter left at 45° A third method of making the cut necessary for sketch A is
2. Save right side of cut to make a zero degree miter, 45 degree bevel cut. Your
Material up to 3.9" (3-7/8)" can be cut as described above. saw can cut a bevel 7 7/8" wide.
For wider boards [up to 5.5" (5-1/2")] several minor CUTTING BASE MOLDING LAYING FLAT AND USING
concessions must be made. THE BEVEL FEATURE FIG. 24
When cutting a board between 3.9" (3-7/8") and 5.5" • All cuts made with the saw set at 45° bevel and 0 miter
(5-1/2") in width the roller on the tip of the guard will hang • All cuts made with back of molding laying flat on the saw
up on the workpiece. If this occurs, simply place your right as shown in figures 23 and 24
thumb on the upper side of the guard and roll the guard up
INSIDE CORNER:
just enough to clear the workpiece, as shown in Figure 25.
Once you have cleared the workpiece, you can release the Left side
guard and it will continue to open as the cut progresses. 1. Position molding with top of molding against the fence
When mitering to the right side of a base molding wider 2. Save left side of cut
than 3.9" (3-7/8") standing vertically against the fence as in Right side
Figure 22, the saw can only cut through the board up to 1 1. Position molding with bottom of the molding against
inch from the end of the board. Trying to cut more than an the fence
inch will cause the saw’s gear case to interfere with the 2. Save left side of cut
workpiece. If you want to cut basemolding between 3-7/8"
OUTSIDE CORNER:
and 5-1/2" wide vertically follow the directions below.
Left side
CUTTING 3-7/8"– 5-1/2" BASE MOLDING VERTICALLY FIG. 25
AGAINST THE FENCE 1. Position molding with bottom of the molding against
the fence
• Position molding as shown in Figure 22 2. Save right side of cut
• All cuts made with the back of the molding against the fence Right side
INSIDE CORNER: 1. Position molding with top of molding against the fence
Left side 2. Save right side of cut
1. Position molding with bottom of molding against
the base of the saw CUTTING CROWN MOLDING
2. Miter left 45° Your miter saw is better suited to the task of cutting crown
3. Save left side of cut molding than any tool made. In order to fit properly, crown
Right side molding must be compound mitered with extreme
accuracy.
1. Position molding with top of the molding resting on
the base of the saw The two flat surfaces on a given piece of crown molding
2. Miter left 45° are at angles that, when added together, equal exactly 90
3. Save left side of cut degrees. Most, but not all, crown molding has a top rear
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angle (the section that fits flat against the ceiling) of 52
TABLE 1 COMPOUND MITER CUT degrees and a bottom rear angle (the part that fits flat
against the wall) of 38 degrees.
Your miter saw has special pre-set miter latch points at
31.62 degrees left and right for cutting crown molding at
the proper angle. There is also a mark on the Bevel scale
at 33.85 degrees.
SQUARE BOX The chart on the next page gives the proper settings for
cutting crown molding. (The numbers for the miter and
bevel settings are very precise and are not easy to
accurately set on your saw.) Since most rooms do not
have angles of precisely 90 degrees, you will have to fine
See ‘Tools-Electric’
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