SPINNING

TRAINING
MANUAL

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1) TEXTILE FIBER CLASSIFICATION
 Natural Fibers
 Man-made Fibers

2) FIBRE SPECIFICATIONS AND DEFINITION

i. Length
ii. Strength
iii. Mic/Denier
iv. Rd
v. +b
vi. Uniformity Index
vii. Moisture content
viii. Moisture regain
ix. Cross-section
x. Especially about Polyester, Viscose, Linen, Spandex, Fiber finish, Monofilament

3) YARN NUMBER SYSTEM AND CONVERSION

i. Direct (Tex, Decitex, Denier)
ii. Indirect (English count, Metric count, Worsted count, Woollen count)
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4) MIXING/BLENDING

4.1 PRODUCTION ASPECTS

i. Objectives
ii. Method of laying mixing
iii. Composition of various mixing/blending and how it is decided
iv. Amount of water, oil etc. required depending upon season i.e. summer, winter or rainy and their
purpose
v. Conditioning time of lay down
vi. Precautions to be taken while laying mixing
vii. Waste management standards and controls
viii. Cleaning schedule

4.2 SAFETY ASPECTS

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4.3 MAINTENANCE ASPECTS
i. Different maintenance schedules and their frequency
ii. Type of beaters & their speeds
iii. Gearing diagram
iv. Setting of various photocell devices and limit switch
v. Understanding of bypass system, Pipe connections, Pipe diameters
vi. Types of lattices and their usage
vii. Various spare parts
viii. Checking and use of correct oil and lubricants
ix. Types of maintenance faults, their causes and remedies

4.4 R&D ASPECTS

i. Type of fiber used & their specification
ii. Testing of various fiber properties
iii. Blend test : Knowledge of chemicals, process and tolerance limit

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5) BLOW-ROOM
5.1 SAFETY ASPECTS
i. Safety doors
ii. Emergency switches
iii. Fire detection system
iv. Precautions during cleaning

5.2 PRODUCTION ASPECT

i. Objectives
ii. Various machines in Blow-room, their make, model, technology, production capacity
iii. Standard pressure at various points
iv. Ventilator speeds and need of change
v. Control panel of each machine
vi. Waste% checking ,control system and management
vii. Cleaning efficiency of various beating points
viii. Lot change management
ix. Production calculations
x. Standard Rh & temperature conditions
xi. Cleaning schedules

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5.3 MAINTENANCE ASPECTS
i. Different maintenance schedules and their frequency
ii. Type of beaters & their speeds, beating points
iii. Gearing diagram
iv. Setting of various photocell devices and limit switch
v. Understanding of bypass system, Pipe connections, Pipe diameters
vi. Types of lattices and their usage
vii. Various spare parts
viii. Checking and use of correct oil and lubricants
ix. Types of maintenance faults, their causes and remedies

5.4 R&D ASPECTS

i. Blend test : Knowledge of chemicals, process and tolerance limit

6) CARDING
6.1 SAFETY ASPECTS
i. Safety doors
ii. Emergency switches
iii. Precautions during cleaning

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6.2 PRODUCTION ASPECT
i. Objectives
ii. Various machines, their make, model, production capacity
iii. Technical comparison of different card models
iv. Rotation direction, speed of various parts
v. Draft and hank for various counts
vi. Function of auto leveller (open loop/close loop) and it’s operation
vii. Control panel
viii. Different type of waste and waste points in card
ix. Waste management standards and controls
x. Cleaning efficiency and nep removal efficiency
xi. Web checking for thin web or cut or holes
xii. Hank adjustment
xiii. Material segregation
xiv. Lot change management
xv. Production calculations
xvi. Cleaning schedules

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6.3 MAINTENANCE ASPECTS
i. Different maintenance schedules and their frequency
ii. Gearing diagram
iii. Various components of carding machine, their function, expected life, cost
iv. Different gauges between different parts for different material
v. Different types of carding wires, flat tops : their applications, grinding schedule, PPSI,
approx. cost, life expectancy
vi. Setting of various photocell devices and limit switch
vii. Basic understanding of card room accessories : Flat mounting & demounting machine, milling
machine, wire mounting & demounting machine, multi roller mounting machine, flat tops
grinding machine, cylinder & doffer wire grinding machine, brazing machine etc.
viii. Types of maintenance faults, their causes and remedies

6.4 R&D ASPECTS

i. Wrapping checking and adjustment of same
ii. Neps in card feed & sliver
iii. Trash in card sliver & its standard
iv. Cleaning efficiency
v. Blend test : Knowledge of chemicals, process and tolerance limit

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7) DRAW-FRAME
7.1 SAFETY ASPECTS
i. Safety doors
ii. Emergency switches
iii. Drafting head safety
iv. Precautions during cleaning

7.2 PRODUCTION ASPECT

i. Objectives
ii. Various machines, their make, model, speed
iii. Technical comparison of different models
iv. Function of auto leveller (open loop/close loop) and it’s operation
v. Calculation of draft and hank for various counts
vi. Control panel
vii. Hank adjustment
viii. Randomization
ix. Material segregation
x. Lot change management
xi. Production , draft calculations
xii. Cleaning schedules
xiii. Waste management standards and controls

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7.3 MAINTENANCE ASPECTS
i. Different maintenance schedules and their frequency
ii. Gearing diagram
iii. Different stop motions
iv. Importance of suction mechanism and its adjustment
v. Types of belt used
vi. Troubleshooting in draw-frame with respect to higher U%, CV%, cut in sliver, poor coiling
vii. Function of pressure bar in finisher draw-frame
viii. Method of checking top arm load
ix. Detailed information of cots used like make, diameter, cuts of buffing and no. of cots
x. Types of maintenance faults, their causes and remedies

7.4 R&D ASPECTS

i. Standard Wrapping and adjustment of same
ii. Standard Uster%, CV %
iii. Understanding of A% settings and standard of A% & CV% limits in finisher draw-frame
iv. Blend test : Knowledge of chemicals, process and tolerance limit

8) SIMPLEX/ROVING FRAME
8.1 SAFETY ASPECTS
i. Safety doors iv. All rotating rolls safety
ii. Emergency switches v. Precautions during cleaning
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iii. Flyer safety
8.2 PRODUCTION ASPECT
i. Objectives
ii. Various machines, their make, model, speed, no. of spindle in each machine
iii. Technical comparison of different models
iv. Calculation of draft constant, spindle speed and hank for various counts
v. Type of loading on the drafting zone (spring loading/pneumatic loading) : it’s merits & demerits
vi. Standard breakage rate (creel, drafting, bobbin)
vii. Tension adjustment by ATC (Auto Tension Control) and its impact on breakages, stretch% and other
parameters
viii. Methods of piecing and doffing
ix. Working of over head blower and it’s adjustment
x. Control panel
xi. Hank adjustment
xii. Randomization
xiii. Material segregation
xiv. Lot change management
xv. Production calculations
xvi. Cleaning schedules
xvii. Waste management standards and controls

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8.3 MAINTENANCE ASPECTS
i. Different maintenance schedules and their frequency
ii. Different gauges and settings
iii. Gearing diagram
iv. Different stop motions
v. Identification of major spare parts and their expected life
vi. Function and principle of ATC
vii. Function of servo motor in cop build up
viii. Method of top roll mounting on arbors
ix. Specification of top aprons, bottom aprons and cots with their make, quality and sizes
x. Principle of over hangs of top roll
xi. Types of maintenance faults, their causes and remedies

8.4 R&D ASPECTS

i. Standard Wrapping and adjustment of same
ii. Standard Uster%, CV %
iii. Beakage study
iv. Stretch% : method and standards
v. Sensors checking- responsible for breakage at creel, drafting zone & front zone
vi. Blend test : Knowledge of chemicals, process and tolerance limit

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9) RING FRAME
9.1 SAFETY ASPECTS
i. Safety doors iii. All rotating rolls safety
ii. Emergency switches iv. Precautions during cleaning

9.2 PRODUCTION ASPECT

i. Objectives
ii. Various machines, their make, model, speed, no. of spindle in each machine
iii. Technical comparison of different models
iv. Calculation of draft , TPI, break draft and calculation of change gears
v. Calculation of production and productivity and average count of department
vi. Production planning and control, balancing of back processes with ring requirement
vii. Factors affecting yarn parameters and their rectification
viii. Ring traveller selection and changing schedule
ix. Type of loading on the drafting zone (spring loading/pneumatic loading) : it’s merits & demerits
x. Understanding batch creeling procedure
xi. Standard of breakage rate ,idle spindle and pneumafil
xii. Methods of piecing and doffing
xiii. Working of over head blower and it’s adjustment
xiv. Control panel
xv. Randomization xviii. Lot change management
xvi. Material segregation xix. Cleaning schedules
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xvii. Standard Rh & temperature conditions xx. Waste management standards and controls
9.3 MAINTENANCE ASPECTS
i. Different maintenance schedules and their frequency
ii. Different gauges and settings
iii. Gearing diagram
iv. Identification of major spare parts and their expected life
v. Types and specifications of various types of rings, spindles
vi. Working of suction fan or pneumafil waste collection system
vii. Method of top roll mounting on arbors
viii. Specification of top aprons, bottom aprons and cots with their make, quality and sizes
ix. Cots buffing schedule
x. Principle of over hangs of top roll
xi. Types of maintenance faults, their causes and remedies

9.4 R&D ASPECTS

i. Standard Wrapping and adjustment of same
ii. Understanding of quality alarms & their root cause analysis
iii. Understanding of yarn quality parameter like U%, IPI, H, RKm, Elongatiion and their standard count
wise, material wise along with their CV% standard
iv. Schedule of different testing in R&D (like start uo & end breakage study, Hairiness checking etc.)
v. Blend test : Knowledge of chemicals, process and tolerance limit

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10) WINDING
10.1 SAFETY ASPECTS
i. Safety doors iii. All rotating rolls safety
ii. Emergency switches iv. Precautions during cleaning

10.2 PRODUCTION ASPECTS

i. Objectives
ii. Various machines, their make, model, speed, no. of drums in each machine
iii. Technical comparison of different models
iv. Different types of cleaner (mechanical/electronic) and their setting for different counts
v. Type of sensor (Optical/Capacitor) and their working principle
vi. Type of splicers (Dry/Wet/Twin)
vii. Delivery rates in meter/minute for different count and different materials , calculation of
production per drum
viii. Balancing of winding production with ring frame production
ix. Package defects and remedies
x. Analysis of spinning faults on the basis of winding breaks/100 kms and take corrective action at
back process
xi. Rewinding study xvi. Material segregation
xii. Count change procedure xvii. Lot change management
xiii. Study of different quality alarms in winding xviii. Cleaning schedules
xiv. Control panel xix. Waste management standards and controls
xv. Randomization xx. Standard Rh & temperature conditions
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10.3 MAINTENANCE ASPECTS
i. Different maintenance schedules and their frequency
ii. Different gauges and settings
iii. Gearing diagram
iv. Analysis of the reason for red light/upper arm failure and their impact on efficiency
v. Top and lower suction arm working principles and efficiency
vi. Identification of major spare parts and their expected life
vii. Type of splicers and their working principle
viii. Suction pressure & compressed air pressure settings
ix. Types of maintenance faults, their causes and remedies

10.4 R&D ASPECTS

i. Testing and sampling of final yarn for uster, tensile ,Wrapping, Classimat etc.
ii. Cone hardness, diameter and density , tail end checking
iii. Understanding of various Settings (Count, FD, PP, Imperfections, Hairiness, CV, Water, Timings etc)
iv. Understanding of quality alarms & their root cause analysis
v. Splicing and their settings, drum wise splice checking for strength and appearance
vi. General auditing system like – bunch & extra yarn etc.
vii. Moisture content checking
viii. Blend test : Knowledge of chemicals, process and tolerance limit

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11) TFO & DOUBLING
11.1 SAFETY ASPECTS
i. Safety doors iii. All rotating rolls safety
ii. Emergency switches iv. Precautions during cleaning

11.2 PRODUCTION ASPECTS

i. Objectives
ii. Various machines, their make, model, speed, no. of drums in each machine
iii. TPI and doubling production calculations
iv. Calculation for gear change
v. Doubling TPI, CV% checking
vi. Balancing of doubling production with cheese winding production
vii. Doubling yarn faults like singles, high twisted, low twisted, mix count etc. and reason behind it
viii. Doubling breaks/100 spindles/hour analysis
ix. Twist setting for doubling yarns
x. Twist direction as per end use (S/Z)
xi. Reserve checking with maintenance
xii. Spandex centering, if applicable
xiii. Control panel
xiv. Randomization xvii. Cleaning schedules
xv. Material segregation xviii. Waste management standards and controls
xvi. Lot change management xix. Standard Rh & temperature conditions
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11.3 MAINTENANCE ASPECTS
i. Different maintenance schedules and their frequency
ii. Tension adjustment in TFO
iii. Correcting TPI CV%
iv. Types of maintenance faults, their causes and remedies

11.4 R&D ASPECTS

i. Final yarn testing for uster, tensile, wrapping, TPI (as per standard) etc.
ii. Drum wise splice checking for strength & appearance
iii. Package density, tail end checking
iv. Moisture content checking

12. CONDITIONING
 Conditioning cycle as per end use and type of yarn
 Proper material segregation

13. PACKING
 Proper material segregation
 Type of various packing accessories (poly bag, cartons, pallets, nylon strip etc.)
 Type of packing for domestic & exports

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 POLYESTER

VISCOSE

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FLAX/LINEN
Staple length
• The average length of the longer half of the fibers
• Upper-half-mean length
• It influences Spinning limit, Yarn evenness, Handle of the
product, Luster of the product, Yarn hairiness, Productivity
• Aids in cohesion and twisting
• The longer the fiber, the stronger the yarn
• The staple length groupings are currently used in the trade staple are Short staple, Medium staple,
Long staple, Extra long staple
• Synthetic fibers are produced in the form of continuous filaments, which are long, continuous strands of
fiber.
• They can be used in this form but it is usual for them to be cut into predetermined lengths (i.e. staple
fibers) to suit the type of yarn needed.
• Natural and synthetic fibers are often blended together when making yarns (e.g. wool/nylon,
cotton/polyester), giving the benefits of both fiber types.
• For this purpose the length of the synthetic filament may be cut to match that of the natural fiber, thus
making it possible to use the same spinning machinery for both fibers.

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Strength
• Strength of any material is derived from the load it supports at break and is thus a measure of its
limiting load bearing capacity.
• Individual fibers must have sufficient strength to withstand normal mechanical strain in the processing.
• The resistance of a fiber to use and wear is considerably dependent on its tensile strength..
• Tensile strength of textile fibre is measured as the maximum tensile stress in force per unit cross-
sectional area or per unit linear density, at the time of rupture called ‘tenacity’.
• Expressed in terms of grams per denier or grams per tex units.

Micronaire (mic)/den
• Mic is a measure of the air permeability of compressed cotton fibres
• An indication of both fibre fineness (linear density) and maturity (degree of cell wall development)
• Low mic indicate fine or immature fibres
• High mic indicate coarse or mature fibres
• It influences:
 Processing waste
 Neps
 Spinning performance
 Yarn and fabric quality
 Dye-uptake and dyed fabric appearance
• Denier or den (abbreviated D), a unit of measure for the linear mass density of fibers, is the
mass in grams per 9000 meters of the fiber.
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Rd & +b

• The colour of cotton is measured using a cotton calorimeter and is expressed by the degree of
reflectance (Rd).
• It typically ranges between 50-85 units and indicates how white or gray a sample is as well as
yellowness (+b).
• Higher Rd indicates the brightness in cotton while lower Rd reflects the dullness or grey look in cotton.

Uniformity Index

The ratio between mean length and upper half mean length.

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Moisture Regain

• Moisture regain is the amount of moisture that a textile fibers or yarn will absorb when exposed to a
specific level of humidity.
• Moisture regain = 100 * W/D
• Where D = Oven Dry weight of fiber , W= Weight of water in fiber
• The moisture regained from textile fibers is affected by the manufacturing process.
• Fibers with high moisture regain will absorb more moisture from the air, making them more
comfortable to wear in humid environments, and more prone to shrinking and wrinkling.
• Fibers with low moisture regain, on the other hand, will absorb less moisture from the air, making them
less shrink or wrinkle, and be less comfortable to wear in humid environments.

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Moisture content
• Moisture content is a measurement of the amount of moisture present in a textile fiber.
• The amount of moisture in a material when expressed as a percentage of total weight is known as the
percentage moisture content.
• Moisture content = 100 * W/(D + W) [Where D = Oven Dry weight of fiber , W= Weight of water in fiber]
• Moisture content becomes the factor in the physical properties of the fibers; those are strength,
elasticity, and flexibility.
• Fibers with high moisture content will be weaker, less elastic, and less flexible than fibers with low
moisture content.
• Moisture content reduces the dyeability of the fibers. Fibers with high moisture content are more
difficult to dye than fibers with low moisture content.
• This is because the water in the fibers can interfere with the chemical reactions that take place during
the dyeing process, resulting in uneven or inconsistent coloration.
• Moisture content can reduces the comfort of the textile product. Textiles with high moisture content can
feel clammy and uncomfortable against the skin,
while textiles with low moisture content can feel dry
and scratchy.
• Moisture content eases of processing the fibers into
yarns and fabrics. High moisture content can cause
fibers to stick together, making them difficult to spin or
weave, while low moisture content can cause fibers to
break or become brittle, making them difficult to
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Cross-Section

• The cross section depicts the shape of the various textile fibers. Each textile fiber offers a distinct cross
sectional appearance when seen under a microscope. The shapes vary from round to oval and flat,
different shapes determines certain characteristics of the textiles.
• The cross-section of a fiber has an effect on the appearance, hand, drape, flexibility, and moisture
wicking properties.
• The cross sectional shape or form of the fibers specifies their texture.
• Numerous physical characteristics such as hand, bulkiness, and luster are associated with cross sectional
shape.
• Synthetic fibers with a more regular surface seem brighter than natural fibers with an irregular
surface, with the exception of silk, which has a regular surface.

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POLYESTER FIBER

 PET fibers, dominate the world synthetic fibers industry. They occupy the largest volume of synthetics
and exceed nylons, rayon, and acrylic fibers.
 They are inexpensive, easily produced from petrochemical sources, and have a desirable range of
physical properties.
 They are strong, lightweight, easily dyeable, and wrinkle-resistant, and have very good wash–wear
properties.
 They are used in countless varieties, blends, and forms of textile apparel fibers, household, and
furnishing fabrics.
 Polyesters are used in carpets, industrial fibers, and yarns for tire cords, car seat belts, filter cloths,
tentage fabrics, sailcloth, and so on.

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Physical Properties of Polyester Fibers:
•Thickness : 1.2D, 1.5D , 2.0D
•Length : Variable cut lengths (most common 38 mm)
•Color: White
•Density : 1.39 g/cc
•Tenacity : high, 40 to 80 cN/tex
•Moisture regain : 0.4 % (at 65% R.H and 20°C)
•Elongation: High, 15 to 45%
•Flame reaction: melts, shrinks, black fumes
•Melting point: 260°C

Dyeing Properties:
•Because of its rigid structure, well-developed crystallinity and lack of reactive dyesites, PET absorbs very
little dye in conventional dye systems.
•Polyester fibers are therefore dyed almost exclusively with disperse dyes.

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Characteristics of Polyester Fibers:
•Good strength
•Low absorbency
•Resistant to stretching and shrinking
•Resistant to most chemicals
•Easy to wash – Quick-drying
•Crisp and resilient when wet or dry
•Wrinkle and abrasion-resistant
•Retains heat-set pleats and creases

End Uses of Polyester Fibers:

Apparel: Every form of clothing
Home furnishings: Carpets, Curtains, Bedsheets, and Pillow covers.
Technical textiles: Floor coverings, V-belts, Ropes and Nets, Tire cord.

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• Viscose (or viscose rayon) is a man-made fiber composed of 100% regenerated cellulose.
• It is made from cotton linters or wood pulp, usually obtained from spruce and pine trees, therefore it is
sustainable.
• The name viscose was derived from the word viscous referring to the sticky spinning solution.
• It is the most versatile and the most widely used manmade fiber.

Physical Properties of Viscose Fibers:

• Thickness : 1.2D, 1.4D , 1.5D
• Length : 32-38 mm
• Density : 1.53 g/cc
• Elasticity : Good, <2-3%
• Elongation: 15 to 30%
• Moisture content : 13 % (at 65% R.H and 20°C)
• Tensile strength : 2.5-3.0 gpd in the dry state and 40-50% less in the wet state
• Lustre : Light to bright
• Action of heat : Loses its strength and begins to decompose at 350-400 deg F.
• Action of light : Prolonged exposure to sunlight weakens the fiber due to moisture and ultraviolet light
of the sunlight
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Dyeing properties : The viscose fiber showed great dye adsorption capability even at a low salt dosage
providing environmental benefits for dyeing process.

Characteristics of viscose fiber

• It loses 40%—70% of its strength when it becomes wet
• Highly absorbent
• Soft and comfortable
• Easy to dye
• Drapes well
• Does not shrink when heated
• Biodegradable

End Uses of Viscose Fibers:

•Apparel: Accessories, blouses, dresses, jackets, lingerie, linings, millinery, slacks, sports shirts, sportswear,
suits, ties, work clothes.
•Home Furnishings: Bedspreads, blankets, curtains, draperies, sheets, slipcovers, tablecloths, upholstery.
•Industrial Uses: Industrial products, medical-surgical products, nonwoven products, tyre cord.
•Other Uses: Feminine hygiene products, baby wipes, and kitchen wipes.

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• Natural bast fiber
• Textiles made from flax are known in English as linen .
• Flax fiber is extracted from the skin of the stem of the flax plant.
• In its inner bark, there grows long, thick walled cells of which flax fiber
strands are composed.
• Flax fiber is soft, lustrous, and flexible; bundles of fiber have the
appearance of blonde hair.
• It is stronger than cotton fiber, but less elastic. FLAX/LINEN

Physical Properties of Flax Fibers:

• Tenacity : 6.5 to 8 gm/denier (very strong fiber because of very crystalline polymer system)
• Length : 18-30 inch (avg)
• Color: Brownish, light, ivory, grey
• Elongation at break: approx 1.8% (dry) and 2.2% (Wet)
• Effect of Heat: Linen has an excellent resistance to degradation by heat. It is good conductor of heat.
So linen sheet are so cold in summer season.

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• Effect of moisture: Standard moisture regain is 10 to 12%.
• Good Abrasion Resistant
Dyeing properties : It has no good affinity to dyes. Direct and vat dyes are suitable for flax.

Characteristics of Flax fiber

• Hygroscopic nature: Flax is very absorbent
• Absorbency: Absorbency is good. It absorbs moisture and dries more quickly. It is excellent for
manufacturing towels and handkerchiefs.
• Dimensional stability: Good but easily tend to crease.

End Uses of Flax fiber

• The best grades are used to make linen fabrics such as damasks, sheeting and lace.
• Coarser grades are used for the manufacturing of rope and twine, and historically for canvas and
webbing equipment.
• Flax is also used as a raw material in the high-quality paper industry for the use of printed banknotes
and rolling paper for tea bags and cigarette paper manufacture.
• It is also hypo-allergenic and so an excellent choice of fiber for those with allergies.

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 Spandex is a synthetic polymer. It is also called Elastane Fiber.
 It is an elastomer, which means it can be stretched to a certain degree and it recoils when released.
 In fact, spandex fibers can be stretched to almost 500% of their length.
 Multifilament
 Spandex fabrics can be stretched repeatedly, and will return almost exactly back to original size and
shape.
 They are lightweight, soft, and smooth.
 They are easily dyed. They also resist damage by body oils, perspiration, lotions or detergents.
 These fabrics are also abrasion resistant
 They are compatible with other materials, and can be spun
with other types of fibers to produce unique fabrics, which have
characteristics of both fibers.

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Physical properties of Spandex

 Density : 1.15 to 1.32 g/cc

 Moisture regain : 0.8-1.2 %
 Breaking tenacity: 0.6 to 0.9grams/denier
 Dull luster
 Low strength compared to most other synthetic fiber
 Excellent elastic property
 Heat resistant up to 300F
 Burns slowly
 Low electrical conductivity

Uses of Spandex Fiber

Garments where comfort and fit are desired: Hosiery, swimsuits, aerobic/exercise wear, ski pants, golf
jackets, disposable diaper, waist bands etc.

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 .

There are two systems of expressing yarn number or yarn count.

❶ Direct yarn numbering system (mass/unit length)
This means the higher the yarn count number, the heavier or thicker the yarn. It is fixed length system.

 Denier: The weight in grams of 9000 meters of yarn

e.g. 30D indicates that 9000 meters of yarn weight 30 grams.

 Tex: The weight in grams of 1000 meters of yarn

e.g. 30 Tex indicates that 1000 meters of yarn weight 30 grams.

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❷ Indirect yarn numbering system (length/unit mass)
This means the higher the yarn count number, the finer or thinner the yarn. It is based on the fixed weight
system.

 English Cotton Count (Ne): Number of 840 yard hanks of yarn per 1 pound weigh
e.g. 30/1 cotton(1 means single yarn) indicates that 30 x 840 yards of yarn weight 1 pound.
e.g. 40/2’s (2 means ply yarn) indicates that 20(Resultant count)x 840 yards of yarn weight 1 pound.

 Metric Count (Ne): Number of 1000 m (or 1 Km) of yarn per 1 Kg weight
e.g. 30 Nm indicates that 30 kilometers or 30000 meters of yarn weight 1 kilogram.

 Worsted Count: Number of 560 yards hanks of yarn per 1 pound weight
e.g. 1/20 worsted indicates that 20 x 560 yards of yarn weight 1 pound.

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Conversion Table

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4.1 Production aspects

Objectives
 To get a good quality product.
 To get varieties of yarn.
 To get the proper strength of the yarn.
 Evenness

Mixing advice slip

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Method of laying mixing

Stack Blending
 Oldest and simplest method which is still used where small total quantities are involved.
 The total masses of each component required are first weighed and assembled together before being
spread out in horizontal layers ,over a large floor area, to build up a deep stack.
 Oil and other additives may be applied evenly between some of the layers, the necessary total mass
of each additive having been determined previously (depending upon season i.e. summer, winter or
rainy) .
 The stack is manually broken down into vertical ‘slices’ before being fed to an opening machine.
 This method has the advantage of assembling the total batch together at one time and ensures the
correct proportions of components, but it is labor-intensive, intermittent and slow.
 After opening, a second stack may be made, and the process repeated if necessary.

Benefits of blending

 When yarn dyeing is used, the product usually has a single overall shade, or, if blends of fibers with
affinities for different types of dyes are used, a simple cross-dyed mixture is possible.
 By mixing different coloued fibers in a blend, the product can have a ‘sparkle’ which is completely
missing from a solid-dyed product.

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Should have information/knowledge of below points too :

 Composition of various blending and how it is decided

 Amount of water, oil etc. required depending upon season i.e. summer, winter or rainy and their
purpose
 Conditioning time of lay down
 Precautions to be taken while laying mixing
 Waste management standards and controls
 Cleaning schedule

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4.2 Safety aspects

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4.3 Maintenance aspects

i. Different maintenance schedules and their frequency

ii. Type of beaters & their speeds
iii. Gearing diagram
iv. Setting of various photocell devices and limit switch
v. Understanding of bypass system, Pipe connections, Pipe diameters
vi. Types of lattices and their usage
vii. Various spare parts
viii. Checking and use of correct oil and lubricants
ix. Types of maintenance faults, their causes and remedies

4.4 R&D aspects

i. Type of fiber used & their specification

ii. Testing of various fiber properties
iii. Blend test : Knowledge of chemicals, process and tolerance limit

[Link]
5.2 Production aspects

Objectives
 Opening: To open the compressed fibers up to very small tufts
 Cleaning: To remove the impurities like seed fragments, stem pieces, leaf particles, neps, short fibers,
dust and sand
 Mixing and blending: To make homogenous mixture of the material
 De-dusting: To extract the dust if present
 Uniform feed for card: To convert the mass of fibers into thick sheet called lap which should be uniform
length and width wise or to provide output in the form of tufts of optimum size.

Should have information/knowledge of below points too :

 Various machines in Blow-room, their make, model, technology, production capacity

 Standard pressure at various points

[Link]
 Ventilator speeds and need of change
 Control panel of each machine
 Waste% checking ,control system and management
 Cleaning efficiency of various beating points
 Lot change management
 Production calculations
 Standard Rh & temperature conditions
 Cleaning schedules

5.3 MAINTENANCE ASPECTS

i. Different maintenance schedules and their frequency
ii. Type of beaters & their speeds, beating points
iii. Gearing diagram
iv. Setting of various photocell devices and limit switch
v. Understanding of bypass system, Pipe connections, Pipe diameters
vi. Types of lattices and their usage
vii. Various spare parts
viii. Checking and use of correct oil and lubricants
ix. Types of maintenance faults, their causes and remedies

5.4 R&D ASPECTS

i. Blend test : Knowledge of chemicals, process and tolerance limit

[Link]
6.2 Production aspects

Objectives
• To open the fiber tufts fully .
• To make the fibres parallel to one another along the length of the sliver.
• To eliminate maximum impurities present in the fibers.
• To remove all the neps present in the material generating in the previous process like blow room
and mixing.
• To blend the fibres and to achieve fibre to fibre mixing.
• To finally convert the web of cotton into a uniform sliver.

[Link]
[Link]
Should have information/knowledge of below points too :
 Various machines, their make, model, production capacity
 Technical comparison of different card models
 Speed of various parts
 Draft and hank for various counts
 Control panel
 Different type of waste and waste points in card
 Waste management standards and controls
 Cleaning efficiency and nep removal efficiency
 Web checking for thin web or cut or holes
 Hank adjustment
 Material segregation
 Lot change management
 Production calculations
 Cleaning schedules

For more information please visit below link:

[Link]

[Link]
6.3 MAINTENANCE ASPECTS
i. Different maintenance schedules and their frequency
ii. Gearing diagram
iii. Various components of carding machine, their function, expected life, cost
iv. Different guages between different parts for different material
v. Different types of carding wires, flat tops : their applications, grinding schedule, PPSI, approx. cost,
life expectancy
vi. Setting of various photocell devices and limit switch
vii. Basic understanding of card room accessories : Flat mounting & demounting machine, milling
machine, wire mounting & demounting machine, multi roller mounting machine, flat tops grinding
machine, cylinder & doffer wire grinding machine, brazing machine etc.
viii. Types of maintenance faults, their causes and remedies

6.4 R&D ASPECTS

i. Wrapping checking and adjustment of same
ii. Neps in card feed & sliver
iii. Trash in card sliver & its standard
iv. Cleaning efficiency
v. Blend test : Knowledge of chemicals, process and tolerance limit

[Link]
7.2 Production aspects

Objectives
• To improve the uniformity (linear density) of sliver up to optimum level.
• To improve the fibre arrangement in the sliver and to make the fibres parallel to the sliver length.
• To straighten the hooked, curled and crimped fibres present in the sliver.
• To draft the material and to reduce the weight per unit length of sliver.
• To mix or blend the components of sliver to
each other and to find homogeneous material
output.
• To eliminate the dust and impurities present
in the sliver.

[Link]
Should have information/knowledge of below points too :

 Various machines, their make, model, speed

 Technical comparison of different models
 Function of auto leveller (open loop/close loop) and it’s operation
 Calculation of draft and hank for various counts
 Control panel
 Hank adjustment
 Randomization
 Material segregation
 Lot change management
 Production , draft calculations
 Cleaning schedules
 Waste management standards and controls

[Link]
7.3 MAINTENANCE ASPECTS

i. Different maintenance schedules and their frequency

ii. Gearing diagram
iii. Different stop motions
iv. Importance of suction mechanism and its adjustment
v. Types of belt used
vi. Troubleshooting in draw-frame with respect to higher U%, CV%, cut in sliver, poor coiling
vii. Function of pressure bar in finisher draw-frame
viii. Method of checking top arm load
ix. Detailed information of cots used like make, diameter, cuts of buffing and no. of cots
x. Types of maintenance faults, their causes and remedies

7.4 R&D ASPECTS

i. Standard Wrapping and adjustment of same

ii. Standard Uster%, CV %
iii. Understanding of A% settings and standard of A% & CV% limits in finisher draw-frame
iv. Blend test : Knowledge of chemicals, process and tolerance limit

[Link]
8.2 Production aspects

Objectives
• To draft the drawframe sliver to reduce weight per unit length.
• To insert small amount of twist into the roving.
• To wind twisted roving onto the bobbin.

The draft given in the roving process will

be in the range between 4 and 20 and
can work fibers of a length
of up to 60 mm.

For more information please visit

below link:
[Link]
[Link]
Should have information/knowledge of below points too :

 Various machines, their make, model, speed, no. of spindle in each machine
 Technical comparison of different models
 Calculation of draft constant, spindle speed and hank for various counts
 Type of loading on the drafting zone (spring loading/pneumatic loading) : it’s merits & demerits
 Standard breakage rate (creel, drafting, bobbin)
 Tension adjustment by ATC (Auto Tension Control) and its impact on breakages, stretch% and other
parameters
 Methods of piecing and doffing
 Working of over head blower and it’s adjustment
 Control panel
 Hank adjustment
 Randomization
 Material segregation
 Lot change management
 Production calculations
 Cleaning schedules
 Waste management standards and controls

[Link]
8.3 MAINTENANCE ASPECTS

i. Different maintenance schedules and their frequency

ii. Different gauges and settings
iii. Gearing diagram
iv. Different stop motions
v. Identification of major spare parts and their expected life
vi. Function and principle of ATC
vii. Function of servo motor in cop build up
viii. Method of top roll mounting on arbors
ix. Specification of top aprons, bottom aprons and cots with their make, quality and sizes
x. Principle of over hangs of top roll
xi. Types of maintenance faults, their causes and remedies

8.4 R&D ASPECTS

i. Standard Wrapping and adjustment of same

ii. Standard Uster%, CV %
iii. Beakage study
iv. Stretch% : method and standards
v. Sensors checking- responsible for breakage at creel, drafting zone & front zone
vi. Blend test : Knowledge of chemicals, process and tolerance limit
[Link]
9.2 Production aspects

Objectives
• Attenuating roving by drafting to form yarn.
• To insert amount of twist to the fibers to hold the fiber.
• To wind the yarn on to the bobbin.
• For building a bobbin in such a way that will facilitate handling as well as the subsequent process.
• To spin desire quality of yarn finally.
• To improve the strength of the fiber strand.

For more information please visit below link:

[Link]

[Link]
[Link]
Should have information/knowledge of below points too :

 Various machines, their make, model, speed, no. of spindle in each machine
 Technical comparison of different models
 Calculation of draft , TPI, break draft and calculation of change gears
 Calculation of production and productivity and average count of department
 Production planning and control, balancing of back processes with ring requirement
 Factors affecting yarn parameters and their rectification
 Ring traveller selection and changing schedule
 Type of loading on the drafting zone (spring loading/pneumatic loading) : it’s merits & demerits
 Understanding batch creeling procedure
 Standard of breakage rate ,idle spindle and pneumafil
 Methods of piecing and doffing
 Working of over head blower and it’s adjustment
 Control panel
 Randomization
 Material segregation
 Standard Rh & temperature conditions
 Lot change management
 Cleaning schedules
 Waste management standards and controls

[Link]
9.3 MAINTENANCE ASPECTS
i. Different maintenance schedules and their frequency
ii. Different gauges and settings
iii. Gearing diagram
iv. Identification of major spare parts and their expected life
v. Types and specifications of various types of rings, spindles
vi. Working of suction fan or pneumafil waste collection system
vii. Method of top roll mounting on arbors
viii. Specification of top aprons, bottom aprons and cots with their make, quality and sizes
ix. Cots buffing schedule
x. Principle of over hangs of top roll
xi. Types of maintenance faults, their causes and remedies

9.4 R&D ASPECTS

i. Standard Wrapping and adjustment of same
ii. Understanding of quality alarms & their root cause analysis
iii. Understanding of yarn quality parameter like U%, IPI, H, RKm, Elongatiion and their standard count
wise, material wise along with their CV% standard
iv. Schedule of different testing in R&D (like start uo & end breakage study, Hairiness checking etc.)
v. Blend test : Knowledge of chemicals, process and tolerance limit

[Link]
10.2 Production aspects

Objectives
 To transfer yarn from one package to another suitable
package, this can be conveniently used for weaving purpose.
 To remove yarn faults like hairiness, neps, slubs and
foreign matters.

For more information please visit below link:

[Link]

[Link]
Type of sensors

i) Optical sensor
 Optical sensor is used for determination of diameter variation.
 It has advantages with regard to visual appearance of the yarn.
 Two-dimensional Optical sensor offers advantages for the determination of the roundness and the
density of the Yarn (because yarn diameter is not always circular)
 It is used for CSY yarns as it arrests twist variation in yarn.

ii) Capacitor sensor

 A capacitor is an electric component consisting of two opposing electrodes that are divided by an
insulating material.
 Capacitive Sensor is used for determination of mass variation.
 It is equipped with PP module

Type of splicers

a) Dry : Used for cellulosic fibers as there will be slippage due to water and viscose loose it’s strength
after getting wet.

[Link]
b) Wet : Used in case of CSY, Cotton yarn
c) Twin : Used for darker shade yarns, CSY, high twist yarn. Twin splicers provide better covering.

Below is the link of USTER QUANTUMN3 MANUAL

[Link]

[Link]
Should have information/knowledge of below points too :

i. Various machines, their make, model, speed, no. of drums in each machine
ii. Technical comparison of different models
iii. Different types of cleaner (mechanical/electronic) and their setting for different counts
iv. Delivery rates in meter/minute for different count and different materials , calculation of
production per drum
v. Balancing of winding production with ring frame production
vi. Package defects and remedies
vii. Analysis of spinning faults on the basis of winding breaks/100 kms and take corrective action at
back process
viii. Rewinding study xvi. Material segregation
ix. Count change procedure xvii. Lot change management
x. Study of different quality alarms in winding xviii. Cleaning schedules
xi. Control panel xix. Waste management standards and controls
xii. Randomization xx. Standard Rh & temperature conditions

[Link]
10.3 MAINTENANCE ASPECTS
i. Different maintenance schedules and their frequency
ii. Different gauges and settings
iii. Gearing diagram
iv. Analysis of the reason for red light/upper arm failure and their impact on efficiency
v. Top and lower suction arm working principles and efficiency
vi. Identification of major spare parts and their expected life
vii. Type of splicers and their working principle
viii. Suction pressure & compressed air pressure settings
ix. Types of maintenance faults, their causes and remedies

10.4 R&D ASPECTS

i. Testing and sampling of final yarn for uster, tensile ,Wrapping, Classimat etc.
ii. Cone hardness, diameter and density , tail end checking
iii. Understanding of various Settings (Count, FD, PP, Imperfections, Hairiness, CV, Water, Timings etc)
iv. Understanding of quality alarms & their root cause analysis
v. Splicing and their settings, drum wise splice checking for strength and appearance
vi. General auditing system like – bunch & extra yarn etc.
vii. Moisture content checking
viii. Blend test : Knowledge of chemicals, process and tolerance limit

[Link]
11.2 Production aspects

Two-For-One (TFO) is a two-stage process where the yarns are doubled and then twisted. In TFO process
two or more single yarns are twisted in order to enhance the properties of the end-products such as
strengthening the yarns.

Objectives of doubling

 To increase the strength of the yarn .

 To increase smoothness, evenness, lusture, uniformity, and compactness of yarn.
 To obtain the better deposition of a twist.

[Link]
Should have information/knowledge of below points too :

i. Various machines, their make, model, speed, no. of drums in each machine
ii. TPI and doubling production calculations
iii. Calculation for gear change
iv. Doubling TPI, CV% checking
v. Balancing of doubling production with cheese winding production
vi. Doubling yarn faults like singles, high twisted, low twisted, mix count etc. and reason behind it
vii. Doubling breaks/100 spindles/hour analysis
viii. Twist setting for doubling yarns
ix. Twist direction as per end use (S/Z)
x. Reserve checking with maintenance
xi. Spandex centering, if applicable
xii. Control panel
xiii. Randomization xvii. Cleaning schedules
xiv. Material segregation xviii. Waste management standards and controls
xv. Lot change management xix. Standard Rh & temperature conditions

[Link]
11.3 MAINTENANCE ASPECTS
i. Different maintenance schedules and their frequency
ii. Tension adjustment in TFO
iii. Correcting TPI CV%
iv. Types of maintenance faults, their causes and remedies

11.4 R&D ASPECTS

i. Final yarn testing for uster, tensile, wrapping, TPI (as per standard) etc.
ii. Drum wise splice checking for strength & appearance
iii. Package density, tail end checking
iv. Moisture content checking

12. CONDITIONING
 Conditioning cycle as per end use and type of yarn
 Proper material segregation

13. PACKING
 Proper material segregation
 Type of various packing accessories (poly bag, cartons, pallets, nylon strip etc.)
 Type of packing for domestic & exports
[Link]
SPINNING CALCULATIONS

Grams per Meter 0.5905 / Ne

Grams per Yard 0.54 / Ne
Tex den x .11 = 1000/Nm = Mic/25.4
Ne Nm/1.693
DRAFT (feed weight in g/m) / (delivery
weight in g/m)
DRAFT Tex (feed)/Tex(delivery)
DRAFT delivery roll surface speed/feed roll
surface speed
No. of hanks delivered by m/c (Length delivered in
m/min)/1.605grams per meter =
0.5905/Ne

[Link]
[Link]
[Link]
For H-Plant (Humidification plant) information please visit below link:
[Link]
[Link]

[Link]
Please refer below links for detailed information :
[Link]
[Link]
[Link]

[Link]
Some other Spinning defects

 3ply/4 ply
 Coarser count
 Contamination
 Count mix-up
 Extra yarn (Bunches)
 Fine count
 Knots
 Low TPI/High TPI
 Lycra bursting
 Neps/Kitty
 One ply coarser
 One ply mix-up
 Single ply
 Shade variation ends
 Snarling
 Yarn dagi

[Link]