A made to measure pattern designed by Silly.

Hands
TABLE OF
CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION TO THE PATTERN

1 Important information 1
Stitches and abbreviations 2
Materials and references 3-6
General Construction 7
Taking Measuraments 7-9

2 SETTING UP
Gauge swatch 10
Flower pattern - Explained 11-12
Flower pattern - Crochet chart 13
Determining the width of your sweater based on
your Gauge swatch 14
Determining the length of your sweater based on
your gauge swatch 15
Measurement page 16

3 STITCHES EXPLAINED
Single crochet (Sc) 17
Double crochet (Dc) 18
Flower pattern - Explained with photos 19
Double crochet Decrease (DcDEC) 20
Ribbing stitch (FPdc and BPdc) 21
TABLE OF
CONTENTS

4
2 PATTERN STEP BY STEP
1: Bottom part 22-23
2: Chest area 24-28
3: Shoulder flaps 29-32
4: Seaming 33
5:Growing the sleeves 34-36
6: Ribbing 37-39
7: Finishing touches 40

TESTERS GALLERY
5 41-49
 Important
Information

First of all want to thank you so much for supporting me and my small business by
having purchased this pattern! I am excited to see all your creations!

This pattern couldn’t have been possible without the flower stitch I have learned
from @nastja.crochets’s pattern (on Instagram). I have contacted Nastja and
asked her for permission to make this pattern, which she agreed to. I would
recommend you all check out her beautiful patterns as well!

This pattern is strictly for personal use. This pattern, or parts of it, may not be
copied, translated, altered, distributed, or resold. Any kind of tutorial on this
pattern, written or in video form, is strictly forbidden.

Always tag me or mention me when featuring my design. Even if I do not have a

username on a certain platform you want to post on, you will still have to mention
me, so that others can find my pattern.
This acknowledges all the hard work I have put into creating this pattern and
allows me to find all the versions that you have created so that I can share them
on my page. I would love to see what you made with my design and be able to
post it on my page!

Finished physical items may be resold in small quantities, as long as you credit me
as the designer.

If you have any questions about this pattern don’t hesitate to contact me at
@silly.hands on Instagram!

Now let’s start making the flora sweater!

@silly.hands PAGE 1
 Stitches and
abbreviations

Here down below you will find a list of all the stitches you will need to complete
this pattern. I will be using US terms.
Not every stitch is necessary, as there will be different options and modifications
available for you to choose from along the way.

Abbreviations:
Ch = chain
Yo = yarn over
Fo = fasten off
Ss = slip stitch
Sk = skip stitch
Sc = single crochet
Dc = double crochet
DcDEC= double crochet decrease
FPdc = double crochet in the front post
BPdc = double crochet in the back post
SsBLO = slip stitch back loop only
ScBLO = single crochet back loop only
DcBLO = double crochet back loop only

@silly.hands PAGE 2
 Materials and references

You can use any type of hook or yarn fiber, as this is a made-to-measure pattern.
The tighter the hook, the denser the stitches, the looser the hook, the looser and
more airy the stitches will be. I would recommend using the hook corresponding
to your yarn (you can find the information on the recommended hook on the back
of your skein).

I have made three versions of this sweater, all made with different yarn and fibers.
My green version is made out of 100 percent merino wool. The brand is called
Mafil, Gaia and it’s a DK weight. For this one, I used about 8 skeins, each 50gr
and 142m each. I used a 3,5 mm hook. In total, I used 8 skeins, which are about
400gr and 1136m.
My pink version is made of 100 percent cotton from Hobbii yarn, friends 8/4
held double with a 3,5 mm hook. Each skein is 50 gr and 160m. In total, I used
about less than 8 skeins, so less than 400gr and 1280m.
My light blue/purplish one is an alpaca and wool blend. It’s Drops Nepal,
worsted weight. Each skein is 50gr and 75m I used a 5 mm hook. I used a total
of 8 skeins, so about 400gr and 600m.

You will also need

Scissors
Tapestry needle
Your favorite sweater as a blueprint to measure

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Pictures of the sweaters I have made (for reference)

See The Testers Gallery for more diversity!

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 General
Construction

This sweater is constructed by making two panels for both the front and the back.

Each panel is constructed by making a bottom part until under the armpit; Fo
some stitches from each side when you get to the height of the armpit to create
some shaping for the armholes; working on the chest part until under the collar,
and then making some shoulder flaps to shape the neckline.

We will then attach them (either by sewing, with a ss or with a sc) on the top parts
and sides (up until under the armpit).

We will then grow the arms from the holes created, working in the round. We will
be using the same stitch pattern throughout the making of the sweater.

Taking
measurements

You have two options for taking your measurements:

1. Taking measurements from a top/sweater you like the fit of (Method 1). I
would recommend this method especially if you are going for a more
oversized fit.
2. Measuring directly on your body (Method 2). This will create a more fitted
version of the sweater. You can always add some cm of positive ease to make
it more oversized.

I will explain both methods in the

following pages.

@silly.hands PAGE 7
Method 1: Taking measurements from a sweater you want to
emulate the fit of.

This pattern is made to measure using a sweater that you already have that you
want to emulate the fit of. The measurements should be taken by laying your
sweater down flat.
1. Lay the top on a flat surface.
2. Measure the width from under the armpit to the other side. This is your
measurement A. This number is the width of the sweater in the bottom part.
3. Measure now the length from right under the collar to the bottom of the
sweater (excluding the ribbing). This is your measurement B.
4. Measure from underneath your armpit to where the sweater ends (without the
ribbing). This will be your measurement C.
You will now move on to making your gauge swatch, to then come back to these
measurements.

Write these numbers down here, so you won’t forget!

A (width of bottom part) = __________
B (height from the collar down) = __________
C (height from under the armpit to where the sweater will end) = __________

@silly.hands PAGE 8
Method 2: Taking measurements directly on your body

1. Measure the biggest part of your chest with a measuring tape. Then divide it
by two. This number will be called A.
2. Measure from your collarbones down to where you want your sweater to end,
keeping in mind that we will add ribbing at the bottom and collar later (so
measure where you want the sweater without the ribbing). This will be your
mesurement B.
3. Measure from underneath your armpit to where want the sweater to end,
without the ribbing. This will be your measurement C.
You will now move on and start to make your gauge swatch.

Write these numbers down here, so you won’t forget!

A (width of bottom part) = __________
B (height from the collar down) = __________
C (height from under the armpit to where the sweater will end) = __________

@silly.hands PAGE 9
Gauge Swatch

For the Gauge swatch, you are going to make 1 flower, to determine how many
flowers you will need to reach your number A, B, and C.

Each flower is made of 19 stitches and 5 rows. This pattern will be repeated
throughout the whole sweater. The only exceptions are at the beginning of the
flower and at the end, where we will chain 3 instead of 5.

Measure both the width of your swatch, which we will call E, and the height of
your swatch, until the second last row (before the last ch space), which we will call
F.
In my case, my number E was
13 cm, and my number F was
10 cm.

You can find full instructions on how to do the

flower stitch on pages 11, 12, 13, and on page 19
(with images).

@silly.hands PAGE 10
Flower pattern - Explained

Row 1: Ch the number of ch to get to your number A (discovered on page

16, Step 5); or, if you are making the gauge swatch, ch 21 and turn your
work. Insert your hook into the third ch.
In my case, I did 97 chains.

Row 2: (turning ch doesn’t count as a stitch). *Do 8 Dc, ch 5, sk 3, insert

your hook in 4th ch and Dc 8*. Repeat (**) until the end of the row.
In between the flowers (that is the ch space that is formed by skipping 3
sts), you will do 16 dc in total (8 at the end of the last flower+8 at the
start of the new flower) before getting to your next ch space. Then ch 2,
turn your work.

Row 3: *Dc 4, ch 5, sk4, insert your hook into the ch space, ss, ch5, sk4,
Dc 4*. Repeat (**) until the end of the row. In between the flowers, there
should be 8 Dc.
Then ch 2, turn your work.

Row 4: *Dc 2, ch 5, sk2, insert hook into ch space, ss, ch 5, insert hook
into next ch space, ss, ch 5, sk 2, 2Dc*. Repeat (**) until the end of the
row. In between the flowers, there should be 4 Dc. Then ch 2, turn your
work.

Row 5: *Dc 2, Dc 2 into the first ch space, ch 6, insert your hook into next
ch space, ss, ch 6, Dc 2 into the next ch space, Dc 2*. Repeat (**) until the
end of the row. In between the flowers, there should be 8 Dc. Then ch 2,
turn your work.

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Row 6: *Dc 4, Dc 4 into ch space, ch 5, Dc 4 into next ch space, Dc 4*.
Repeat (**) until the end of the row. In between the flowers, there should
be 16 Dc.

Remember that the first row (when you ch your very first flower) and last
row (the last flower before Fo) of your flower stitch pattern will be slightly
different from the flowers that are connected.

In your very first flower, you will sk 3 sts and ch 5 to create your first ch
space.

On the last row of any flower you are Fo and not connecting to another
flower, you will ch 3 instead of ch5.

You can find detailed instructions with images in the Stitches-Explained

section, on page 19. You can also find the crochet chart of the flower
pattern on the next page.

@silly.hands PAGE 12
Flower patter - Crochet Chart

3 Stitch description:
starting ch
6 6
ch
5
5 ss
5
dc
5 5

6 6

5
5 5

5 5

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 Determining the width of your sweater
based on your Gauge swatch

Number of flowers (width) of the bottom part (up until under the
armpits

Divide your number E by 19. Then divide A by E/19 . This is how many stitches you
will need to do to get to the width of your sweater (number A).

This probably won’t match the stitches required to make an integer number of
flowers, so you will have to determine if the number you got is divisible by 19, to
determine how many flowers you will have to make.

Divide then the number you got (A divided by (E/19) by 19. It is unlikely it is going
to be an integer number. Round up or down to the closest integer number. This
will be the number of flowers you are going to make.

Take the integer number you got (number of flowers) and multiply it by 19. This is
how many stitches you will do for the main/bottom part of one panel of the
sweater.

Add 2 to that number. This is how many chains you will have to do to get started
on your sweater.
Write down the number of chains you will have to do here: __________

Example:
My number E is 13, my number A is 63.
Step 1: E/19 = 13/19 = 0,68.
Step 2: A/(E/19) = 63/0,68 = 92,65 = 93.
Step 3: (A/(E/19))/19 = 93/19= 4,89 (flowers). I will round this to the next integer
number: 5 flowers.
Step 4: Number of flowers x 19 = 5 x 19 =95 (number of stitches x panel).
Step 5: Number of stitches x panel + 2 = 95 + 2 = 97 (number of chains).

In my case, I wanted the sweater to be a little bit smaller than the blueprint
sweater, so I rounded my number of flowers (step 3) to 4 instead of 5. I would
though suggest rounding up or down to the closest integer number.

@silly.hands PAGE 14
 Determining the length of your sweater
based on your gauge swatch

Number of flowers (height) up until under the armpit:

To determine the height up until under your armpit, you will take your number C,
and divide it by your number F. This is the number of flowers you will have to
make to get to your number C. Round up or down to the closest integer number.

Example:
My number F is 10cm, my number C is 30 cm.
Step 1: C/F= 30/10 = 3 flowers (height)

If I didn’t have even and integer numbers: F=22, C=43

Step 1: C/F= 43/22= 1,95. I will be making 2 flowers (height) to reach my number C.

Number of flowers (height) until the collar:

To determine the height you will need to get to the collar part, you will take your
number B and subtract your number C. This will be the height you have left to get
to your number B.

Then divide (B-C) by your number F. This will be the number of flowers you will
have to do from under the armpit to get to the collar. Round up or down to the
closest integer number.
Example:
My number F is 10cm, my number C is 30 cm, my number B is 51 cm.
Step 1: B-C= 51-30= 21 cm
Step 2: (B-C)/F= 21/10 = 2,1= Round down to 2 --> I will be making 2 flowers
(height) after the bottom part (from above the armpits) to get to B.

@silly.hands PAGE 15
Measurament page

Here you can write down all of the measurements made in the previous pages, to
have a point of reference for your second panel.

A (width of bottom part) = __________

B (height from the collar to the end of the sweater) = __________
C (height from under the armpit to where the sweater will end) = __________
E (width of your gauge swatch) = __________
F (height of your gauge swatch) = __________
Number of ch for the bottom part = __________
Number of flowers bottom part (width) = __________
Number of flowers until under the armpit (height to get to C) = __________
Number of flowers until the collarbone (height to get to B) =__________

The width of your chest part and how many flowers you will do for the shoulder
flaps will be determined as we make the pattern.

You can still write them here after having completed your first panel to keep all
the measurements in the same place for when you are making the second panel of
the sweater:
Number of flowers in the chest part (width) = __________
Number of flowers Fo in the bottom part from each side = __________
Number of flowers in the shoulder flaps across the two panels = __________

@silly.hands PAGE 16
Single crochet (Sc) - Explained

Step 1: ch 1. This counts as a Step 2: Insert your hook into You should have 2 loops on
turning ch, not as a stitch the first space, yo, pull throgh. hook

Step 3: yo, pull through all 2 This is what you shold have after This is what you should have
having completed your first sc !
loops. after your 2nd sc.

On the next row, you will

ch 1 at the beginning of
the row. This counts as a
turning ch, not as a stitch.
You can find a video tutorial of the stitch here
Continue doing Sc until the
end of the row, then repeat
all the steps in the next
row.

@silly.hands PAGE 17
Double crochet (Dc) - Explained

Step 1: Chain 2. Ch2 always counts Step 2: Yo and insert your Step 3: Yo, pull through. 3
as a turning chain, not a stitch.
hook in the first stitch loops on hook

Step 4: Yo, pull through first This is after step 4. You’ll Step 5: Yo and pull through
2 loops. have 2 loops on the hook. all the loops.

You are done! You have just

completed your first Dc!

Repeat the stitch until the end

of the row.

Chain 2 doesn’t count as a st.

In new row: ch2, Dc in the same
This is what you should have st, Dc until the end of the row.
after step 5.

You can find a video tutorial of the stitch here

@silly.hands PAGE 18
Flower pattern - Explained with photos

Step 1: After ch 21 (for gauge swatch) Step 2: Ch 5 and sk 3. Step 3: Dc into the 4th stitch until
and turning your work, insert your you have 8 Dc. Ch2, turn your
hook into the third ch and Dc 8. work. ch2 counts as a turning ch.

Step 4: Dc 4. Step 5: Ch 5, ss into ch space, Step 6: Dc 2.

ch5, 4dc. ch2, turn your work.

Step 7: Ch5, ss in ch space, ch5, ss Step 9: Ch 6, ss in ch space, ch6, 2

Step 8: Dc 2, do 2Dc in 1st
in other ch space, ch5, 2dc. ch 2, Dc into next ch space, 2 dc (4 tot).
turn work.
ch space. 4 dc in total. Ch 2, turn work.

Step 11: Ch5 if you are

continuing the flower, ch3 if
you are Fo the flower (and it’s
not connecting to anything,
like in the gauge swatch)

Then dc4 into next ch space,

Step 10: Dc 4 into each stitch, 4 in
dc 4. 8 dc in total on the other
This is your gauge swatch/first
the ch space. 8 dc in total. side.
flower completed!

@silly.hands PAGE 19
Double crochet Decrease (DcDEC)-
Explained

You will always do a Decrease by Step 1: Insert your hook in 1st Step 2: Insert your hook in the
inserting your hook in two stitch, yo. pull through. 3 loops on second stitch.
stitches. Start by Yo. hook

Step 3: Yo, pull through. 4 Step 4: Yo, pull through first This is what you should have
loops on hook 2 loops after step 4. 3 loops on hook

Step 6: Yo, pull through all 3 You have completed your

loops. first DcDEC!

You can find a video tutorial of the stitch here

The video tutorial is a little bit different than how I explained the DcDEC,
but works just as well.

@silly.hands PAGE 20
Double crochet in the Front post (FPdc)
and Double crochet in the back post
(BPdc) - Ribbing stitch - Explained

Step 1: Chain 2 and yo. Instead of inserting Step 2: Insert your hook in the
your hook in the v, you will insert it in the body of the previous st from the Step 3: Yo, pull through (3
posts, the “bodies” of the stitches. front loops on hook).

This is your first FPdc.

You will now repeat the

same steps but instead of
inserting your hook in the
body of the stitch from the
front, you will go through
Step 4: Yo and pull through Step 5: Yo. Pull through last the back. This will be your
first 2 loops. (2 loops on hook) 2 loops. first BPdc.

Repeat from step 2 until step 5

of the FPdc.

To give the ribbed effect, you

will keep alternating between 1
FPdc and 1 BPdc until the end
of the row.
Step 1: Yo, Insert your hook in the This is what you should have
body of the stitch through the Then ch2 and turn your work.
after 1 row
back
Keep in mind that when you get to the
end of the row, the last stitch will be
inverted on the next row, because you
You can find a video tutorial of the stitch here will be looking at it on the wrong side.

If your last stitch is a FPdc, when you

turn your work it will look like a BPdc.
You will then ch 2 and do a BPdc as
the first stitch of the new row.
Keep following the pattern of BPdc
and FPdc you are seeing!

@silly.hands PAGE 21
 1. Bottom part

Ch the number of ch you got on page 14 (step 5), then start making your flowers,
following the flower pattern until you reach the number of flowers (in height) to
get to your number C.

For my blue sweater, I did 78 chains, which equals 4 flowers wide + 2 as a turning
chain. I kept doing flowers until I reached my height to get to number C, which was
4 flowers for me.

When you reach the last row, remember to ch 3 instead of ch 5 for the flowers you
are Fo and not attaching to the next flower for the chest part.

ch 3 ch 5 ch 5 ch 3

@silly.hands PAGE 22
You are going to Fo the first and last flower of your row. This will create shaping
for the armholes, as we will do the same thing on the other panel, creating a gap.

If you want to Fo more than 1 flower from each side because one flower is very
small for you, feel free to do so.

The only thing to remember is to Fo the same amount of flowers at the beginning
and the end of your last row so that you have symmetrical armholes and sleeves.

For all of my sweaters, I have only Fo 1 flower from each side.

Write down how many flowers you are Fo from each side here:
Flowers Fo in the bottom part (each side): __________

@silly.hands PAGE 23
14
 2. Chest part

Before starting the chest part, it is important to think ahead about how many
flowers you are going to Fo to do the neckline, and how many flowers will
constitute a “base” for your shoulder flaps.
The image on the right is there
to help you understand how Shoulder
flap Fo flowers

the construction of the panel

will be, and how the different
Chest part
sections of the sweater are Fo flower

divided.
Fo flower

We are now making these Bottom

part
calculations based on the
amount of flowers that we
have left after Fo the flowers
in the bottom section. So:
number of flowers width -
flowers Fo for armholes.
To determine how many flowers will be Fo for the neckline and how many will be
used to create shoulder flaps, you will look at the width of one of your flowers
(number E ).

If your number E (width of your gauge swatch) is less than 15 cm, you are going to
Fo 2 or more flowers in the centre of your sweater, until you reach a number that
is bigger than 15 cm. This will allow you to create a neckline that is wide enough
for you to fit your head through.

The only important thing is to make sure that you are going to have the same
number of flowers from each side when you are Fo the flowers for the collar.
These flowers on the sides will allow you to
create the shoulder flaps later.
This can be 1, 2, 3, etc.. as long as you have
the same on the other side.

@silly.hands PAGE 24
It might also happen that you have 0 flowers from each side, as you are planning
to Fo all the flowers to create the neckline.

The chest part instructions will vary slightly if you are planning to have 0 or any
other number of flowers after Fo the flowers for the neckline.

You can write down here:

Flowers Fo in the neckline =__________

Flowers as a base for your shoulder flaps
from each side = __________

How to fix if you have an uneven number of flowers for the shoulder flaps
You might have an uneven number of flowers for the shoulder flaps.

For example: you have 6 flowers in your chest part, and by your calculations with
your number E you should Fo 3 flowers in the neckline. This would leave you with
3 flowers for your shoulder flaps, which will make it uneven.

If that is the case (or you have the same issue with a different number of flowers),
you will add one flower more to Fo in your neckline.
For my example, I will add 1 flower to Fo to my 3 flowers to Fo in the neckline. This
will make me have 4 Fo flowers in the neckline and 1 flower from each side for the
shoulder flaps. This will make my number of flowers for the shoulder flaps even.
Do the same thing I did to fix any uneven number of shoulder flaps, by adding 1
flower to your Fo flowers in the neckline.
We will then fix the overly wide neckline in the shoulder flap section (Step 3).

Now that you have an even number of flowers for your shoulder flaps, write down
how many Fo flowers you will have and how many flowers will be your shoulder
flaps in the space above.

You will then follow the instructions on the next page, following the instructions
for if you have any number other than 0, or if you have 0 flowers for your
shoulder flaps now that you have an even number after Fo 1 extra flower. Follow
the instructions as if you naturally had an even number until Step 3.

@silly.hands PAGE 25
I f you have any number (other than 0) for the shoulder flaps :
If you have any number of flowers that is different from 0 from each side
5. Ribbing
after considering Fo the flower/s from the neckline, follow these
instructions.
You will attach your yarn with an ss on the 9th stitch after the ch space of
the flower you have Fo in the bottom part.
You will then start making the flower pattern across the row until the 9th
stitch before the ch3 space of the other Fo flower. There should be 8
stitches remaining before the flower you have Fo.

You will continue to do the flower stitch until 9th stitch

you reach the number of flowers (height) you
need to get to your measurement B.

When you get to the last row of the last

flower you need to get to B, you will do a ch5
for the flowers you have designated are
going to be the base for your shoulder flaps
and a ch3 for the flowers you have
designated going to be Fo to create the
neckline.

Example:
For my green version, I did 6 flowers in the bottom part. I then Fo 1 flower
from each side to create a gap for the armholes, and had 4 flowers to
consider for the chest part.
I have decided to Fo 2 flowers for my neckline, and do 1 flower as a
shoulder flap from each side.

I Fo 1 flower on each side in my bottom part. I inserted my hook in the 9th

stitch after the ch3 space of the 1st Fo flower of the bottom part, ss, and
started to do the flower pattern until I had 8 stitches left before the ch3
space of the other Fo flower of the bottom part.

I kept doing the flower pattern until I got to the last row before B. Then I did
a ch5, ch3, ch3, and a ch5, in the spaces of each flower, as I wanted to Fo 2
flowers in the middle and have 1 flower as the base for my shoulder flap
from each side.

@silly.hands PAGE 26
I f you have 0 for the shoulder flaps :
If you have 0 flowers left for your shoulder flaps as you are planning on Fo
all flowers, you are going to create the space for the flowers from each side.

After having Fo in the bottom section, you will insert your hook in the ch3
space of the flower you have Fo. If you have Fo more than 1 flower from
each side in the bottom part, you will insert your hook into the last flower
you have Fo (the closest to the chest).

In the ch3 space, ch2, do 2 dc into

the ch space and dc until your
next flower. You should have 14dc,
instead of the usual 8dc.
Continue doing the flower pattern
until you get to the flower you Fo
in the bottom part (the closest
one to the chest part if you Fo
more flowers).
When you get to that flower dc until the ch3 space, dc2 in the ch space.
Then ch2, turn your work and continue to do the flower pattern until you
reach the number of flowers (height) you need to get to your measurement
B.

When you get to the last row of the last flower you need to get to B, you will
Dc all and continue to do the flower pattern. You will do a ch3 for the
flowers, as you are going to Fo. You are going to have 18 Dc from each side.

Example:
For my blue version, I had 4 flowers as the width in the bottom section. I
decided to Fo 1 flower from each side to create the armholes. I was left with
2 flowers, which I wanted to Fo as well for the neckline, as my number E for
1 flower was 13cm, and the neckline would have been too small.

I had to then add some stitches from each side in order to do the shoulder
flaps, and shape the neckline nicely.

@silly.hands PAGE 27
I then attached my yarn in the ch3 space of the Fo flower, dc2, and did the
flower pattern for my 2 central flowers. I continued dc after the second
4. Seaming the panels together
flower until I reached the ch3 space of the Fo flower, and I dc2 into that
space.

I then ch 2, turned my work, and continued to do the flower pattern until I

reached the number of flowers (height) needed to get to my measurement
B.

When I got to the last row of the last flower needed to get to B, I followed
the flower pattern and Fo all of my flowers with a ch3.
I have 18 dc from each side.

@silly.hands PAGE 28
 3. Shoulder flaps

To make the shoulder flaps that shape the neckline nicely, you can decide to
either make two exact panels (so you’ll have the height of two shoulder flaps in
total for the neckline) or make only one panel with a shoulder flap, which will be
attached to the end of the chest part of the other panel.

How you decide it’s up to you. I would suggest that if your number F (the height of
1 flower, gauge swatch), is 10 cm or more you’d do only 1 shoulder flap for the
entire sweater (so making one panel with shoulder flaps, one without). If your
number F is less than 10cm, I would recommend doing the height of 2 flowers for
the entire sweater (so making 2 exact panels).

Either way, the shoulder flap is going to be 1 additional flower (in height) to each
side of your panel/panels, to create more height.

If you had an even number of flowers for the width of your shoulder flaps without
doing modifications, follow the instructions below. If you originally had an uneven
number of flowers for the width of your shoulder flaps and fixed it by Fo 1 extra
flower in the neckline, follow the instructions on the next page and ignore the
ones before it.
In both cases, instructions will vary depending on if you had any even number
other than 0 or if you had 0 flowers for the shoulder flaps (all flowers Fo).

If you had an even number of shoulder flaps without modifications

Instructions will vary depending on if you had any number different other than 0
for your shoulder flaps or if you had 0.

If you have any number of flowers on the sides other than 0:

Turn your work, ch 2, and keep following the flower pattern. You will complete 1
row of flowers (height) x how many flowers (width) you have as designated as your
shoulder flap. When you get to the last row, ch 3 and Fo.

Attach your yarn to the other side of your panel, ss, and repeat the same thing
you did on the other side.

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PAGE 29
If your number of flowers on the sides is 0:
You will follow the same instructions I gave above, but you will simply have to “set
up” the flower.
You will ch2, turn your work, Dc8, ch5 (sk3), and Dc8. You will put the rest of the
last dc 8 in the ch3 space of the flower below. This should be 1 Dc in the ch space.

You will complete 1 row of flowers (height) x how many flowers (width) you have
as designated as your shoulder flap. When you get to the last row, ch 3 and Fo.

Attach your yarn to the other side of your panel, ss, and repeat the same thing
you did on the other side.

If you originally had an uneven number for the shoulder flaps and fixed
it by adding 1 flower to Fo into the neckline
If this is the case, you will only follow these instructions and ignore the ones
above. The principle is the same as the instructions above, but you will need to
add some extra stitches after having done the flower stitch/“setup” for your
shoulder flap when you come toward the neckline. This is because you added an
extra flower to Fo in the neckline, making the neckline wider than what you
originally wanted it to be.
You will now reduce the width of the neckline by adding half of the flower width
(with Dc) from each side.

Instructions will vary if after having added 1 flower to Fo in the neckline you had
any number other than 0 for the width of your shoulder flaps or if you had 0
flowers left for your shoulder flaps.

If you had any number other than 0:

Turn your work, ch 2, and keep following the flower pattern. When you get to the
end of the 1st row for your flower pattern, Dc 9 stitches after your usual 8 Dc,
going into the Fo flowers of the neckline. In each dc place 1 dc and in each ch
space, place 3 dc.

Continue doing the flower pattern and doing 9 Dc extra to the usual flower
pattern, either at the beginning of the row or at the end, when you are going
towards the neckline.

@silly.hands PAGE 30
You will complete 1 row of flowers (height) x how many flowers (width) you have
as designated as your shoulder flap. When you get to the last row, ch 3 and Fo.

Attach your yarn to the other side of your panel, ss, and repeat the same thing
you did on the other side.

If your number of flowers on the sides is 0:

You will follow the same instructions I gave above, but you will simply have to “set
up” the flower.
You will Ch2, turn your work, Dc8, ch5 (sk3), and Dc8, Dc9. You will put the rest of
the last Dc 8 in the ch3 space of the flower below and Dc 9 extra stitches after
these 8 Dc, going into the Fo flowers of the neckline. In each dc place 1 dc and in
each ch space, place 3 dc.

Continue doing the flower pattern and adding 9 Dc to the usual flower pattern,
either at the beginning of the row or at the end, when you are going towards the
neckline.

You will complete 1 row of flowers (height) x how many flowers (width) you have
as designated as your shoulder flap. When you get to the last row, ch 3 and Fo.

Attach your yarn to the other side of your panel, Ss, and repeat the same thing
you did on the other side.

Once you have completed your first panel, you will follow the instructions on the
next page.

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After having completed one panel, you will be making another one that is:
1. Exactly the same (if you decided to do the height of 2 flowers for the shoulder
flaps)
2. The same up until the end of the chest part (if you decided to do the height of
1 flower for the shoulder flaps, therefore only having one panel with extra
height on the sides).

If you decide to do option 2, Fo all of your flowers (by making a ch3 instead of a
ch5) once you are finished with the chest part.

This is how your panels should look if you chose to do option 2.

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 4. Seaming

If you had 2 exact panels (option 1)

Once you have both your panels together,
place two stitch markers at the beginning
and the end of your shoulder flap. Do the
same thing on the other shoulder flap.

Place stitch markers at the bottom of the

panels on both sides, as well as on the top
(under the armpits).

We will now seam both shoulder flaps. After

having done that, we will seam from the
bottom up, until the bottom of the armpit.
Do the same thing on the other side.
If you had 2 different panels (option 2)
Do the same thing as instructed above for the sides of the body. The only
difference is in the shoulder flaps. Instead of sewing onto another shoulder flap,
you will sew the shoulder flaps at the ends of the chest part, connecting them for
the width of that 1 flower, until your shoulder flap is secured to the chest part .

You can use any seaming method you’d like: a seamless seam, a sc seam, a slip
stitch seam, a whip stitch seam, etc.

I did a seamless seam on my green and pink version and a whip stitch for my blue
one. I went with option 1 for the green and pink, and went for option 2 for my blue
one. I am using the picture of the blue one for option 1 only to explain how to sew,
as I don’t have images of my other 2 to explain.

You can find a tutorial on how to do the seamless stitch

here:

@silly.hands PAGE 33
8.
5.Ribbing
Growing- the
Armholes
sleeves

We are going to set up the sleeves to continue making the flowers.

Ss where the two panels are sewed together under the armpit, ch 1, and Sc all
around, counting your stitches and weaving some ends as you go.

Once you have counted your stitches, write the number here: __________

This number will have to be divisible by 19. It is very unlikely that it will be divisible
by 19, so after having divided your number of stitches by 19, take the closest
integer number and multiply it by 19. This will be the number of stitches you will
need to have to make the flowers.

Write down here the number of stitches you need to have to make the flower
pattern: __________

Take the number of stitches you have and subtract the number of stitches it needs
to be. If the number of stitches you need to have is bigger than the one of the
stitches you have, take the biggest number and subtract the smaller number.

This will be the number of decreases (stitches that I have - stitches that I need)
/increases (stitches that I need - stitches that I have) you will have to do to set up
the flower pattern correctly. Write this number here: __________

Example:
For my blue version, I Sc all around and counted 62 stitches.
62/19 = 3,2
I am going to round it up to 3. This tells me my sleeve is going to have a
circumference of 3 flowers wide.

The stitches I will need are going to be: 3x19

= 57 stitches

@silly.hands PAGE 34
I will then have to decrease: stitches I have stitches that I need to have = 62-57 = 5
stitches.
If you want a more tapered/fitted sleeve,
round down your number of flowers or switch
to a smaller hook for the sleeves. If you want
more of a flared/balloon sleeve use the same
hook as your main body.

Once you know how many stitches you will

need to do (either increases or decreases), ch
2, Dc all around and place that number of
decreases/increases scattered across the
previous row of sc.
Count the stitches and make sure it’s the
correct number of stitches you should have
to set up your flowers.
This will be any multiple of 19.
Once you have your sleeves set up, think about where you want to place the
flowers on the sleeves and place stitch markers where you want your flowers to
be positioned.
I wanted to place the flower center at the very top of the shoulder, so I placed the
first center of the flower at the very top of where my shoulder was going to be. I
left a ch space of 3 at the very top, counted 8 stitches and placed a stitch marker,
counted the other 8 stitches and placed a stitch marker, counted the other 3
stitches and placed a stitch marker, etc... until I finished the whole circumference.

Feel free to place stitch markers where it makes sense for you to understand
where your flowers will be placed.

Once you have figured out the placement, start making the flower pattern in the
first dc of the cluster of 8Dc of one flower.
I would recommend you start with the flower that is the closest to the armpit and
where you seamed the panels together. This is made to disguise the point where
you will join in the round.

You will be working in rounds making the flower pattern (*dc8, ch5, sk3, dc8* for
your first row), and doing a ss in the first dc when you get to the end of the row.

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Remember that the ch2 doesn’t count as a stitch but as a turning stitch and that
you won’t be turning your work, as you are going to be working in the round.
7. Ribbing - Neckline
Do as many repetitions of the flower pattern as you want, trying on the piece as
you go to determine the length of the sleeve. Consider whether you want to add
ribbing later.

When you get to your last flower, you will do the same thing we have been doing
to Fo flowers: ch3 instead of ch 5 over each flower space. Then ss into the first dc,
Fo.

If you want to add ribbing, I would suggest you do it now before making the other
sleeve.

You can find more information

in the ribbing section, on pages
37-38.

Then, do the same thing you

did on the other sleeve.

This method of making the

sleeves will create a slightly to
bigger flared sleeve, depending
on how many flowers you are
doing in your circumference.

You can make the sleeves go in

a bit (therefore making these
more of balloon sleeves) by
decreasing in the ribbing
section.

@silly.hands PAGE 36
 6. Ribbing

When it comes to the ribbing, you can do any type of rib stitch you want.

You can SsBLO, ScBLO, DcBLO, alternate 1 FPdc, and 1 BPdc, or even incorporate
knitting and do 1x1 rib, 2x2 rib, or any stitch you like to do the ribbing in.

Make sure that the stitches make sense when working in the round, following the
stitch chosen and correcting it with a decrease if necessary. For example: if you
have 2 knit stitches at the end of the round on your 1x1 rib, you will have to make
a knit decrease to make the stitch pattern correct when you join the round.
You should do this with any stitch chosen.

I have included in the pattern a detailed explanation of how to do the alternating 1

FPdc and 1 BPdc. You can find that on page 21.

In my case, for my versions I did:

green version: alternating 1 FPdc and 1 BPdc on the collar, bottom, and
sleeves.
pink version: 1x1 knit rib stitch on the collar and sleeves.
blue version: 2x2 knit rib stitch on the collar, bottom, and sleeves.

Sleeve ribbing
You can do as many rows of ribbing as you want in whatever stitch you prefer (see
above for reference). You will be working in the round with any stitch you choose.

If you want to have wide sleeves, do the ribbing stitch without doing any
decreases.

@silly.hands PAGE 37
If you want to do more of a balloon sleeve effect, do a row where you scatter
some DcDEC and then do your rows of ribbing. Be sure you note down how many
decreases you have done so that you make the same thing on the other sleeve.
Write down here the number of DcDEc: __________
Number of stitches on each sleeve: __________

If you are doing knit rib, you can pick all stitches (if you don’t want to do
decreases), or you can *pick x amount of stitches, then skip 1* (if you want to do
some decreases).
Number of stitches picked up: __________

Write down the number of rows of ribbing, so that you make the same amount of
rows on the other sleeve.
Number of rows of ribbing: __________

Then repeat the same steps on the other sleeve.

Neck ribbing
You can do as many rows of ribbing as you want in whatever stitch you prefer (see
above for reference). You will be working in the round with any stitch you choose.

You can decide to do a row of some DcDEc scattered across the neckline to make
it more cinched, or simply start making your ribbing without decreases.

If you are doing a crochet ribbing (with or without decreases), you will insert your
hook in one side of the neckline (where you seamed the shoulder flaps, or in the
middle of your one shoulder flap).

If you are doing knit rib, you can pick all stitches (if you don’t want to do
decreases), or you can *pick x amount of stitches, then skip 1* (if you want to do
some decreases).

Do as many rows as you want, until you are satisfied with the height of your collar.

@silly.hands PAGE 38
Bottom ribbing
You can do as many rows of ribbing as you want in whatever stitch you prefer
(see above for reference). You will be working in the round with any stitch you
choose.

Insert your hook/start picking up stitches at the side of the bottom of the
sweater (where you started to join the panels together) and do as many rows
of ribbing as you please.

You can do some decreases (either knit with picking up stitches, sk1; or with
DcDec for crochet) if you prefer to make the bottom come in a bit more. I
personally did not do that in any of my sweaters.

Here I did a 2x2 knit rib

@silly.hands PAGE 39
 7. Finishing touches

The only steps that are missing are weaving in the ends and blocking your piece.

After that, you are done!

I really hope you had fun making my design! Thank you so much for supporting me
through purchasing this pattern, it means a lot to me!

Don’t forget to tag me on Instagram @silly.hands when you have completed your
piece, as I would love to see your version of my design!

@silly.hands PAGE 40