TREE & SHRUB PLANTING GUIDE
More resources at: https://washtenawcd.org/planting-guides
Sales & species information at: https://store.washtenawcd.org
Contact us: 734-302-8715 or
[email protected]Seedlings and transplants obtained from the Washtenaw County Conservation District are intended for
reforestation, windbreaks and screens, erosion control and wildlife plantings. They are adaptable,
conservation-grade plants that will naturalize quickly. Although they may be used for landscaping
purposes, that is not their primary purpose.
For landscape purposes, homeowners may be more satisfied with larger plants purchased from
landscape nurseries. Landscape plants may offer more disease or insect resistance, better flower or fall
colors and be less "wild" in appearance.
GROWTH RATES: All seedlings usually grow slowly for 2-4 years after planting or transplanting and
more rapidly after that. A good root system must be developed before seedlings reach their optimum
growth rates. Generally, rapid to moderate growth rate trees and shrubs will reach 5-6 feet tall in 7-9
years, while moderate to slow growth rate trees and shrubs will take 9-11 years to reach the same
height. Soils, weather, weed and grass competition, and animal/human damage will affect growth rates.
GENERAL SUGGESTED PLANTING DISTANCES
PLANTING PURPOSE EVERGREENS HARDWOODS SHRUBS
# TREES # TREES # TREES
REFORESTATION: SPACING / ACRE SPACING / ACRE SPACING / ACRE
Management, including thinning 8’ X 10’ 545
& weed control 10’ X 10’ 435 12’ X 12’ 300 NOT APPLICABLE
12’ X 12’ 300
REFORESTATION:
No Management, let trees grow 12’ X 12’ 300 12’ X 12’ 300 NOT APPLICABLE
to maturity
EROSION CONTROL 6’ X 6’ 1210 NOT RECOMMENDED 6’ X 6’ 1210
WILDLIFE 8’ X 10’ 545 12’ X 12’ 300 6’ X 6’ 1210
WINDBREAKS
3 rows recommended: 15 – 20’ between trees GENERALLY NOT
6 – 10’ between shrubs
2 rows evergreens and rows RECOMMENDED
1 row shrubs
SITE PREPARATION PRIOR TO PLANTING: Proper site preparation reduces weeds, which compete
for light, water and nutrients, and helps assure better seedling survival. When planting in bare soil, you
may wish to plant a cover crop between rows of trees to prevent wind and water erosion. Choose the
appropriate measures from the chart on Page 2, depending upon the number of seedlings being
planted, equipment and time available.
WEED CONTROL BEFORE AND AFTER PLANTING
LIGHT COVER MODERATE COVER HEAVY COVER
WEED Moss, bare soil, sparse Light quackgrass cover, Heavy quackgrass, weed &
CONTROL grass & weed clumps moderate weed & grass grass clumps, ferns, good
METHOD clumps, run-out hay fields, hay fields, etc.
etc.
Remove the sod layer
within a 3’ area around Same as Moderate Cover,
each tree site by hand or but remove the sod and
MECHANICAL No preparation is needed.
with plow. Cultivate or vegetation the fall before
mulch during growing planting.
season.
“Solarize” the soil to kill weed seeds and plants by covering the planting area with clear
or black plastic for 7-10 weeks during the hottest part of summer the year before
CULTURAL planting. The heat build-up will kill most weeds. Weed Mats can also be used, installed
when trees are planted. Mulching with 3-4” of straw, wood chips, grass clippings or
other organic material will help reduce future weed competition.
Herbicides may be used to control vegetation initially and for 2-3 years after planting
with repeat applications. Prior to planting, spot or band spray an area 3’ around each
tree site, particularly if there is Heavy Cover. Certified Pesticide Applicators might apply
Simazine (Princep); non-licensed applicators (most land and homeowners) may use
HERBICIDES
Glyphosate (Round-Up or Kleen-Up) but be sure to protect desired plants from
unintended application, including drift. If possible, hand weed around base of tree to
reduce possibility of herbicide damage. Follow all label directions when applying any
herbicide.
PRE-PLANTING CARE: Plant seedlings as soon as possible after receiving them, keeping roots moist
throughout the planting process. Exposure to sun and wind can kill a seedling in a short time. If
necessary, mist or sprinkle tree roots with water to keep them moist. Do not soak roots in water for an
extended time as the moisture retaining soil particles on the roots will be washed off, and the trees may
drown. “Root Dip” or other water absorbent/retention materials may help conserve moisture in dry
weather.
If you cannot plant immediately, store seedlings in a cool, shaded location for up to 7-10 days, misting or
sprinkling roots with water each day. If storing a large number of bundled trees, avoid poor air
circulation and heat build-up by not stacking bundles in layers more than two bundles high. If planting is
delayed more than 7-10 days, dig a trench in the soil in a shady area or corner of the garden. Place
seedlings in the trench and cover roots with soil. Keep them evenly moist. Refer to Figure 3, page 4.
PLANTING: In general, overcast, cool, still days are ideal since evaporation and moisture loss are
reduced. Spring: Plant in the spring as soon as possible after the frost is out of the ground.
Fall: Fall planting is acceptable on light soils (sands, loamy sands and sandy loams), after seedling buds
are dormant and until frost or snow interferes.
Plant seedlings with a tree planting machine, or by hand, using a planting bar, shovel, spade or other
tool. Refer to Figures 1 & 2, Page 4. Dig a trench or hole deep and wide enough to permit the roots to
spread out in a natural uncurled position. This helps avoid "J" or "L" rooting patterns, which occur when
the hole is too shallow. Refer to Figure 4. Plant seedlings in a vertical position with the root collars
approximately 1” below the soil surface to ensure adequate coverage of the roots with soil.
Firmly pack the soil around the roots to eliminate air pockets. Place seedlings in the middle of the
prepared site to ensure maximum distance from competing vegetation. To reduce exposure time of
roots to the air, remove one seedling at a time when hand planting and in small quantities when machine
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planting. To facilitate planting, long roots may be pruned to 8" in length from the root collar, using a
sharp knife.
Seedlings may also be planted in nursery beds until they increase in size. Plant seedlings 12" apart,
control weed competition and provide water as needed. Transplant them to their permanent location
after 2-3 years in the nursery bed. Do so in early spring when the soil can first be dug and before buds
begin growing. Dig as large of a root-ball as possible, leaving the soil attached to the roots. Plants left
in the nursery bed for longer than 2-3 years may not transplant as well as when they are smaller.
MAINTENANCE: In general, check the survival and condition of seedlings the first and second year and
replant as needed.
Weed Control: Control competing vegetation, where needed, during the first 2-3 years by mowing
between rows, cultivating, mulching and/or herbicide treatment. Keep herbicides off seedlings to avoid
damaging them. Protect seedlings by cutting the bottom out of a plastic gallon jug and attaching a
broom handle or piece of dowel rod through the spout end of the jug. The jug can be easily placed over
seedlings during herbicide treatment. A piece of wood stove pipe or furnace duct pipe also works good
for this purpose.
Watering: If possible, water seedlings during the first growing season to encourage establishment.
Especially during dry periods, provide one good soaking per week, totaling ~1" of water. It is better to
perform fewer, but deeper watering events (vs. more frequent, shallow watering events) to encourage
deeper root formation. If feasible, mulching around trees will also help retain soil moisture and
discourage competing undesirable vegetation.
Fertilizing: Before fertilizing (and ideally before planting), it is beneficial to collect soil samples in the
prepared planting area to send to a lab for analysis. This removes the guess work from determining
what amendments might be required for successful establishment of the desired plants. Ultimately,
paying the upfront cost of a test could save time, money, and protect the environment. If fertilizer is
recommended, consider using slow- and controlled release formulations in granular, spike, or tablet form
(the latter of which is available through the Conservation District). For more information on soil testing,
please visit MSU’s Soil and Plant Nutrient Laboratory at https://www.canr.msu.edu/spnl/
Animal Control: Exclude livestock and pets from all plantings and protect from wild animals by using
shelters, guards, repellents or fencing. The Conservation District offers shelters and repellents.
Disease & Insect Control: Occasionally diseases or insects may attack naturalized plantings.
However, in most cases, control is not recommended. If pest problems become serious on landscape
plantings, call the Master Gardeners at the Washtenaw County MSU Extension office (MSUE) [(734)
997-1819] or The MSU Extension Lawn and Garden Hotline [(888) 678 - 3464] for diagnosis and control
recommendations.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Resources are available from MSUE that can assist you in managing
your tree and shrub plantings. Some of these websites are listed below for convenience:
Home Gardeners:
https://www.canr.msu.edu/home_gardening/trees-shrubs/
Plantation Plantings/Production/Reforestation:
https://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/234/84939/Tree_Planting_in_Michigan.pdf
https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/forest_types_of_michigan_tree_planting_e3202_19
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4/2021
