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Page i

how to read a french fry

Page ii
Page iii

HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY

Boston New York 2001

how to read a french fry

and other stories of intriguing kitchen science ♦

Russ Parsons
Page iv

Copyright © 2001 by Russ Parsons

All rights reserved

For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book, write to Permissions, Houghton Mifflin Company, 215 Park Avenue South, New York, New
York 10003.

Visit our Web site: [Link].

Library of Congress Cataloging­in­Publication Data

Parsons, Russ.

How to read a french fry : and other stories of intriguing kitchen science / Russ Parsons.

p. cm.

ISBN 0­395­96783­X

1. Cookery. I. Title.

TX651.P36 2001

641.5—dc21 00­054685

QUM 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Printed in the United States of America

Book design by Melodie Wertelet, mwdesign@[Link]

Cover photograph by Jim Scherer

The author is grateful for permission to reprint the recipes in this book that originally appeared in the Los Angeles Times. Reprinted with permission of the Los Angeles
Times, copyright © 2000.
Page v

For my mom, who taught me to use words;

my dad, who taught me to think;
and Kathy and Sarah, who taught me almost everything else.
Page vi

acknowledgments

Being a journalist means never getting to say thank you. You work on a story, you talk to your sources, the story appears, and then you move on to the next one. Most
of what we do as journalists is relay other people’s knowledge to our readers. And the only thanks we give is a brief mention in the newspaper. I’ve got 25 years of
thank­yous saved up.

The people who’ve helped me fall into three groups: cooks, writers and scientists. The first group, of course, is closest to my heart. They’ve fed me (come to think of it,
so have many of the writers and one or two of the scientists too). People like Andre Diddy, Deborah Madison, Michael Mal, Rosa Rajkovic, Michael Roberts, Nadia
Santini, Ken and Tony Shoemaker, Martha Rose Shulman, Nancy Silverton, Chris Smith, Zanne Stewart, C.B. Stubblefield and Clifford Wright have taught me much
of what I know about the joys of cooking for other people. Special mention goes to the two truly brilliant cooks I’ve known, Thomas Keller of the French Laundry in
Yountville, California, and Michel Richard of Citronelle in Washington, D.C., my French brother.

A writer is a magpie, collecting bits and pieces of technique from everyone he reads. Another, less polite way of putting it is that we are a bunch of thieves, stealing
anything that isn’t nailed down. The people I’ve robbed most happily include first and foremost Phyllis Richman and Matt Kramer, but also Toni Allegra, Michael
Bauer, Rose Levy Beranbaum, Mark Bittman, Amanda
Page vii

Hesser, Charles Perry, Fred Plotkin, Bart Ripp, Jeffrey Steingarten, Sylvia Thompson and Paula Wolfert. And, of course, the queen mother of all food writers, Julia
Child. Special mention must be made of the food staff at the Los Angeles Times, especially Ruth Reichl, who hired me in the first place and was by far the best boss
I’ve ever had in any capacity, and Donna Deane and Mayi Brady, who tested most of these recipes.

Then there are the scientists. Anyone who writes about the science of cooking owes a tremendous debt to Harold McGee, who opened our eyes to the subject. His
On Food and Cooking remains an incredible achievement; everything that has been written since only makes it more remarkable. But there are also many other books
on food science that are worth investigating. Two authors I find extremely valuable are Belle Lowe, whose books, though published in the 1930s, remain remarkably up
to date in many ways, and Margaret McWilliams. In addition, I relied on the expertise of many, many people, both in print and in person. These include: P. J. Bechtel
of Colorado State University; Eric Block of State University of New York–Albany; Michael Blumenthal of Rutgers University (who handed me practically everything I
needed for the frying chapter and, indirectly, gave me the title for this book); Carlos Chrisosto of the University of California at Davis; Terry Dockerty of the
Cattleman’s Beef Association; Janet Eastridge of the Department of Agriculture; Ray Field of the University of Wyoming; Gregory Gray of the Department of
Agriculture; Arthur Grosser of McGill University; Arthur Maurer of the University of Wisconsin; Nell Mondy of Cornell; Leslie Norris of McCormick and Company;
Jay Novakofski of the University of Illinois–Urbana; Louis Rockland of Food Tech Research; Daryl Tatum of Colorado State University; and Alan Sams of Texas
A&M. There are many more whose contributions to papers or journals were useful. Whether they knew it or not, they all contributed to this book. Of course, any
faults lie with my misinterpretations, not with their information.
Page viii

I owe a tremendous debt of gratitude to my stalwart agent, Judith Weber, who was always there when I needed her and contributed many good ideas (including
spotting the title!), but always knew when not to ask me, “How’s the book going?” And finally, to the crew at Houghton Mifflin, especially my editor, Rux Martin, who
never flinched when I asked to do “just one more rewrite.” That we’ve come through this process and remain on as good terms as when we started is a testament to
our long friendship.
Page ix

contents
recipes x
introduction 1
one ♦ how to read a french fry 9
two ♦ the second life of plants 47
three ♦ miracle in a shell 123
four ♦ from a pebble to a pillow 149
five ♦ meat and heat 217
six ♦ fat, flour and fear 285
index 313
Page x

recipes
♦ APPETIZERS AND FIRST COURSES
tuscan potato chips 25
stuffed zucchini flowers 27
fried little fish 29
goat cheese tart with caramelized onions and green olives 34
roasted tomatoes with goat cheese 63
trout mousse 142
white bean crostini 191
ceviche with shrimp and avocado 235
dungeness crab coleslaw 238
♦ BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH
cornmeal waffles with winter fruit compote 110
strawberry preserves 119
nectarine and rose geranium jam 120
meyer lemon marmalade 121
scrambled eggs with morels and asparagus 141
♦ SALADS
roasted beet and orange salad 78
celery salad with walnuts and blue cheese 135
green goddess salad 136
smoked tuna salad in tomatoes 137
seafood rice salad 188
calamari salad 236
crisp salmon salad 237
♦ SOUPS
smoky cream of corn soup 165
cream of cauliflower soup 205
squash soup with moroccan spices 207
fish soup with shellfish 240
Page xi

♦ PASTA, RICE AND BEANS

orecchiette with prosciutto and peas 167
pasta with broccoli rabe 168
macaroni and cheese with green onions and ham 180
broccoli lasagna 172
free­form lasagna of roasted asparagus 175
wild mushroom lasagna 177
pasta with potatoes 179
soft polenta with ragù 180
artichoke risotto 184
zucchini and porcini risotto 186
pinto bean puree 192
white bean and swiss chard stew 194
pinto bean and squash stew 196
pork and beans . . . and endive 198
potato gnocchi 211
♦ RED MEAT, CHICKEN AND FISH
crisp­skinned salmon on creamy leeks and cabbage 38
country fried chicken 40
pan­fried chicken breasts with fresh tomatoes, green olives and rosemary 42
pork schnitzel with arugula salad 44
ragout of shrimp and fava beans 84
braised duck and lentils 200
sausages and ribs with red wine–braised lentils 202
salmon braised with leeks, prosciutto and mushrooms 242
oven­steamed salmon with cucumber salad 244
grilled salmon with chipotle­tequila butter 246
grilled swordfish with salsa verde 248
baked fish with potatoes and artichokes 250
broiled sand dabs with brown butter 252
Page xii

roast brined turkey 255

turkey tonnato sandwich 256
real fajitas 258
umbrian­style pork roast 259
roast lamb with fresh peas and turnips 260
chicken braised with green olives and thyme 266
chicken in the pot 268
mushroom pot roast 280
lamb and lentils to eat with a spoon 272
braised lamb shanks with green olives 274
ragù napoletano 276
wild mushroom meat loaf 279
spicy garlic sausages 281
lamb, orange zest and rosemary sausages 282
smokerless smoked bratwurst 283
♦ VEGETABLES
brussels sprouts and bacon 36
sautéed green beans with garlic and sage 37
butter­braised spinach 64
belgian endive braised with cream 65
radicchio al forno 66
glazed zucchini 67
california succotash of squash, lima beans and corn 68
creamed onions with shiitake mushrooms 80
market mix 72
baked tomatoes stuffed with mozzarella 73
rajas (grilled peppers and cream) 74
ratatouille 76
potato gratin 209
butternut squash puree with balsamic vinegar 213
Page xiii

gratin of sweet potatoes and bourbon 214

puree of winter squash and apples 215
♦ VEGETABLE MAIN COURSES
spring vegetable stew of snap peas, lettuce, new potatoes and artichokes 80
stew of charred tomatoes, pasta and cranberry beans 82
grilled vegetable sandwich 86
stuffed zucchini 88
eggplant and goat cheese casserole 91
♦ DESSERTS
peach fritters 30
strawberry soup 95
sliced melons in lime­mint syrup 96
fall fruit compote 97
quince applesauce 98
dreamsicle oranges 99
candied citrus peel 100
ultimate strawberry shortcake 102
perfumed strawberries in meringue baskets 104
mango crepes with mexican cream 106
cornmeal crepes with spiced plum compote 108
vanilla­baked apples with bourbon sauce 112
apricot­almond clafoutis 114
berry ice cream 115
stone fruit ice cream 116
white peach and fig ice cream 117
chocolate pots de crème 144
lemon sponge pudding 146
lemon curd tart 147
Page xiv

short­pastry crust 296

flaky piecrust 297
rustic tart crust 299
rustic peach tart 300
nectarine and almond tart 301
lavender­fig tart 302
apple crisp 303
snickerdoodles 306
New Mexican Christmas Cookies (biscochitos) 307
gingersnaps 308
grandma smith’s christmas cookies 309
sour cherry–stuffed almond cookies 310
Page xv

how to read a french fry

Page xvi
Page 1

Wilder sat on a tall stool in front of the stove, watching water boil in a small enamel pot. He seemed fascinated by the process. I wondered if he’d uncovered some
splendid connection between things he’d always thought of as separate. The kitchen is routinely rich in such moments.

Don De Lillo, White Noise

introduction

Have you ever noticed that a whole onion smells different from one that’s been cut? Have you ever wondered why? Here’s the answer: Physically, an onion is 90
percent water, trapped in a fairly flimsy network of cellulose. Within that network is a subnetwork of smaller cells, called vacuoles. These vacuoles separate a variety of
chemical components suspended in the water. It’s only when the vacuoles are ruptured, either by cutting or by smashing, that these chemical components combine and
then recombine again and again in a cascade of chemical reactions, creating the smell and taste we associate with raw onions. Most simply put, what happens is that the
contents of these separate vacuoles combine to form a variety of sulfur­rich compounds called sulfonic acids. These acids in turn combine to form still more compounds
that provide most of the fresh­cut onion character. What’s more, this chain of reactions happens in a flash. It’s a little miracle. In fact, not until the 1980s had science
advanced to the point that it could begin to decipher what happens in that fleeting instant between the time your knife touches the onion and the fumes reach your nose.

Think about it: the chopping of an onion is one of the most common acts in all of cooking. Any good cook has done it thousands, probably millions of times. Yet how
Page 2

many have ever stopped to think about what is really going on? All of this is neither trivial nor purely technical. For example, it’s important to realize that these sulfonic
acids are extremely unstable, meaning they go away quickly. One of the places they go, of course, is right up your nose, which triggers the crying response we associate
with chopping onions (for this reason, these chemicals are called lachrymators, from the Latin word for tears). More critically, they are both water­soluble and heat­
sensitive, which means that the chemicals will dissolve in water and will vaporize when heated. In short: soak an onion or cook it and those acrid flavor characteristics
go away. By the same token, and perhaps just as useful, chill an onion or rinse it under cold water and you won’t cry as much when chopping it. Also, a sharper knife
will damage far fewer cells than a dull one.

And what about those so­called sweet onions, the Vidalias or Mauis or whatever you want to call them? Though sweet onions cost significantly more, they usually
contain no more sugar than plain five­pounds­for­a­dollar yellow storage onions. They taste sweeter because they are much lower in the acrid sulfuric compounds (as
well as in the enzyme that produces much of the onion flavor). The practical application of this is that while raw sweet onions are delicious on hamburgers or in salads, it
is spendthrift to cook one. Take away those sulfuric acids by cooking, and a yellow storage onion will actually taste much sweeter than the so­called sweet. You can
even make raw storage onions taste sweeter by soaking them in several changes of cold water (hot water is more effective at dispersing the acids, but even that small
amount of heat will begin to cook the onion, breaking up the delicate physical framework and robbing it of its crispness). Each time you rinse the cut onions, you will
note that the water becomes milky. That is the trail of the sulfurous compounds. Use vinegar to rinse them, as they do in Mexico, and your onions will seem even
sweeter, because the remaining sulfuric acids are overshadowed by more palatable acetic acids.
Page 3

There are other lessons for the cook in this little bit of onion chemistry. For example, now it should be clear why the size of the dice you cut is important. The smaller
the pieces of onion, the faster the cellulose framework breaks down and the faster the sulfuric compounds go away. Chop an onion small and it will melt into the
background, its residual sweetness forming an almost imperceptible harmonizing flavor. Leave it large if you want both texture and flavor to retain some bite. You can
control the effect by how you cook the onion as well. In a hot pan, it will cook so quickly that some of the sharp flavor will remain, as will some of the crisp texture.
Cook it slowly and, again, it will melt into the background, flavoring everything else without retaining much of its original identity. What’s more, all of these things are
equally true for the other members of the onion family: garlic, shallots, chives, green onions and leeks. They are all built the same way; the differences in flavor are due
to subtle differences in the chemicals involved. Garlic, for example, follows the same process but breaks down into a slightly different set of chemicals.

The kitchen is full of such little miracles, from the browning of meat to the emulsion of a sauce. How are various meats different from one another? Why do you cook
pork differently from beef? How do various cuts within the same type of meat differ? Why do you cook a leg of lamb longer than a rack? And what about chicken and
fish? How is frying different from roasting, and how is steaming different from either of these? Why are some potatoes better for boiling and others for baking? Why can
you stick your hand in a 450­degree oven but not in 212­degree boiling water? Cooking is full of questions that science can help answer — questions you might not
have even thought about asking but that can make you a better cook.

In the good old days, you learned to cook in the kitchen. You worked at the elbow of a master — your mother, a great chef or the fry cook down the street — and
you absorbed the basics. You
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