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IS : 1315 - 1977
( Amalgamating IS : 237-1951 )
(Reaffirmed!2014)!
Indian Standard (Reaffirmed 2018)

METHOD FOR DETERMINATION OF

LINEAR DENSITY OF YARNS
SPUN ON COTTON SYSTEM
( First Revision )
First Reprint JULY 1988

UDC 677.21.061.1:677.017.272

© Copyright 1978
BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS
MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG
NEW DELHI 110002

Gr 4 January 1978
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IS : 1315 - 1977
( Amalgamating IS : 237-1951 )

Indian Standard
METHOD FOR DETERMINATION OF
LINEAR DENSITY OF YARNS
SPUN ON COTTON SYSTEM
( First Revision )
Physical Methods of Test Sectional Committee, TDC 1
Chairman Representing
S H R I T. V. ANANTHAN The Bombay Textile Research Association, Bombay
Vice-Chairman
DR. V. SUNDARAM Cotton Technological Research Laboratory
( ICAR ), Bombay
Members
S H R I M. R A D H A K R I S H N A N ( Alternate to
Shri T. V. Ananthan )
DR V. G. M U N S H I ( Alternate to
DR V. Sundaram )
AGRICULTURAL MARKETING Directorate of Marketing & Inspection ( Ministry of
ADVISER TO T H E GOVERNMENT Agriculture ), Faridabad
OF I N D I A
S H R I S. JAYARAMAN ( Alternate )
DR B. L. B A N E R J E E Indian Jute Industries Research Association,
Calcutta
DR U. M U K H O P A D H A Y ( Alternate )
S H R I K. K. CHATTERJEE Office of the J u t e Commissioner, Calcutta
SHRI G. N. CHATTERJI Ministry of Defence (R&D)
S H R I J. N. M I S R A ( Alternate )
DR D. B. D A S Indian Jute Mills Association, Calcutta
S H R I DHARAM D E V Office of the Textile Commissioner, Bombay
S H R I S. P. G H O S A L ( Alternate )
S H R I A. R. S. GOPALACHAR Central Silk Board, Bombay
DR B. V. I Y E R Ahmedabad Textile Industry's Research Association,
Ahmadabad
S H R I A. RAJAGOPALAN ( Alternate )
S H R I S. V. J I G J I N N I The National Rayon Corporation Ltd, Bombay
S H R I D. S. N A D K A R N I ( Alternate )
( Continued on page 2 )

© Copyright 1978
BUREAU O F I N D I A N S T A N D A R D S
This publication is protected under the Indian Copyright Act ( X I V of 1957 ) and
reproduction in whole or in part by any means except with written permission of the
publisher shall be deemed to be an infringement of copyright under the said Act.
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IS : 1315 - 1977
( Continued from page 1 )
Members Representing
SHRIMATI A. K A P L A S H The Silk & Art Silk Mills' Research Association,
Bombay
DR B. R. M A N J U N A T H A Textiles Committee, Bombay
SHRI V. V E N U G O P A L ( Alternate )
S H R I R. K. M E H R A Ministry of Defence ( DGI )
S H R I N . K . NAGPAUL ( Alternate )
DR M. G. N A R S I A N The Raymond Woollen Mills Ltd, Bombay
SHRI K. P. RAMAKRISHNA PILLAY The South India Textile Research Association,
Coimbatore
REPRESENTATIVE Directorate General of Supplies & Disposals
( Inspection Wing ), New Delhi
S H R I R. R. SHANBAGH Wool Research Association, Bombay
S H R I M. G. THANAWALA M. Best Cotton Rope Manufacturing Co, Bombay
S H R I S. M. CHAKRABORTY, Director General, BIS ( Ex-officio Member )
Director ( Tex )
Secretary
SHRI D. R. K O H L I
Deputy Director ( Tex ), BIS

Subcommittee for Physical Methods of Test for Cotton, TDC 1 : 1

Convener
DR V. SUNDARAM Cotton Technological Research Laboratory ( ICAR ),
Bombay
Members
DR V. G. M U N S H I ( Alternate to
Dr V. Sundaram )
S H R I P . C . AGRAWAL Ministry of Defence (R&D)
S H R I R. C. CHAKRAVARTI ( Alternate )
S H R I A. C H E L L A R A J Madura Coats, Madurai
S H R I H. D. G U P T R U P Ministry of Defence ( D G I )
S H R I B. P. S E N ( Alternate )
DR B. V. I Y E R Ahmedabad Textile Industry's Research Association,
Ahmadabad
S H R I A. RAJAGOPALAN ( Alternate )
S H R I P. S. J A I N The Delhi Cloth & General Mills Co Ltd, Delhi
S H R I V. S. JAYARAM The Mafatlal Fine Spg & Mfg Co Ltd, Bombay
DR B. R. M A N J U N A T H A Textiles Committee, Bombay
S H R I V. VENUGOPAL ( Alternate )
S H R I M. RADHAKRISHNAN The Bombay Textile Research Association, Bombay
S H R I V. S. R I S B U D Victoria Jubilee Technological Institute ( Central
Technological Institute, Maharashtra State ),
Bombay
P R O F D . B. AJGAONKAR ( Alternate )
S H R I K. G. SETHURAM The Century Spinning & Mfg Co Ltd, Bombay
S H R I M A H E S H SHARMA ( Alternate )
S H R I K. S. SHANKARANARAYANA T h e South India Textile Research Association,
Coimbatore
S H R I M. N. U P P O N I Shree R a m Mills Limited, Bombay

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IS : 1315 - 1977

Indian Standard
METHOD FOR DETERMINATION OF
LINEAR DENSITY OF YARNS
SPUN ON COTTON SYSTEM
( First Revision )
0. FOREWORD
0.1 This Indian Standard ( First Revision ) was adopted by the Indian
Standards Institution on 16 August 1977, after the draft finalized by the
Physical Methods of Test Sectional Committee had been approved by
the Textile Division Council.
0.2 An Indian Standard for determination of cotton yarn count, namely,
IS : 237-1951*, was prepared in 1951. This standard also prescribed
conversion factors for conversion of cotton count to tex system. After
the introduction of metric system in the country, IS : 1315-1959† was
prepared which prescribed method for determination of linear density of
yarn in tex system and also provided for conversion to cotton count
system. This standard was intended to supersede IS : 237-1951*.
However, as the cotton count system is still in use in the industry,
these standards have been combined and updated on the basis of the
experience gained during their use and the developments which have
taken place after the publication of these standards.
0.3 To familiarize the industry with International System of Units
( SI Units ) the basic SI Units as well as the recommended SI Units for
use in the textile industry are given in Appendix A.
0.4 In reporting the results of a test or analysis made in accordance with
this standard, if the final value, observed or calculated, is to be rounded
off it shall be done in accordance with IS : 2-1960‡.

1. SCOPE
1.1 This standard prescribes methods for determination of linear density
of yarn spun on cotton system in cotton count and tex. This method is
applicable to single, plied and cabled yarns,
*Method for determination of cotton yarn count ( or yarn melidity in tex ).
†Method for determination of universal count of cotton yarn.
‡Rules for rounding off numerical values ( revised ).
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IS : 1315 - 1977
2. TERMINOLOGY
2.0 For the purpose of this standard the following definitions shall apply
and for definition of other terms IS : 232-1967* may be referred.
2.1 Cotton Count — The linear density of cotton yarn expressed as
number of 768.1 m hanks per 453.6 g ( 840 yd hanks/lb ).
2.2 Tex — The primary unit in a system of units for expressing the
universal count of yarn ( see Note ); the mass in grams per kilometre of
yarn.
NOTE — This system is also intended to be used for expressing the mass per unit
length of fibres, yarns and other textile products like ropes and rovings. The following
multiple and sub-multiple units may be used to avoid large numbers and small
fractions, respectively:
1 ktex ( kilotex ) = 1 000 tex
1 mtex ( millitex ) = 0.001 tex
1 dtex ( decitex ) = 0.1 tex

2.3 Skein — A continuous length of yarn in the form of a coil made

on a reel of known girth. Usually 109.73 m ( 120 yd ) skeins made on
1.372 m ( 1.5 yd ) girth reel is in use in cotton count system and is called
'lea'; while skein of 100 and 50 m made on 1 m girth reel are in use in
tex system.
3. SAMPLING
3.1 The samples shall be drawn in accordance with the procedure laid
down in IS : 3920-1966†.

4. ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS FOR CONDITIONING AND

TESTING
4.1 The samples shall be conditioned to moisture equilibrium in
standard atmosphere of 65 ± 2 percent relative humidity and 27 ± 2°C
temperature ( see also IS : 6359-1971‡ ).
4.2 The test shall be carried out in the standard atmosphere ( see 4.1 ).
5. APPARATUS
5.0 For the purpose of this test any of the following apparatus may be
used depending upon the availability.
*Glossary of textile terms — natural fibres ( first revision ).
†Methods for sampling of cotton yarn for determination of physical characteristics.
‡Method for conditioning of textiles.

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IS : 1315 - 1977

5.1 Any Special Balance — to indicate the linear density directly when
a skein of known length of yarn is placed or hung on one side of the
balance.

5.2 Pan Balance — capable of measuring to an accuracy of 1 mg.

5.3 Wrap Reel — having 1 372 m ( 1.5 yd ) or 1 m girth ( see Appendix B )

and capable of reeling known lengths of yarn.
5.4 Yarn Tensioning Device — an adjustable tensioning device capable
of giving a reeling tension that will result in skeins of the specified length
when measured on a skein gauge. The adjustment in reeling tension
may be made, for example, by making more than one wrap around
thread guides or by passing the yarn around tensioning bars. The reeling
tension shall be the same at all reeling positions and may be checked
as follows:
The yarn is wound from the same package at different reeling
positions. The length of the skeins when measured on a skein
gauge shall not differ by more than 0.1 percent.

5.5 Skein Gauge — a gauge for checking the length of the skein under
a load of 0.5 gf/tex ( 5 mN/tex ) and expressing the length as a plus or
minus deviation from the nominal length. The sensitivity of the skein
gauge shall be sufficient to permit rejection of skeins falling outside
± 0.25 percent tolerances. The skein-gauge length may be adjustable or
non-adjustable. A non-adjustable skein gauge may be used when its
nominal length differs by not more than 0.4 percent from the measured
perimeter of the reel.
NOTE — For details of skein gauge, see Appendix C.

6. PROCEDURE
6.1 Cotton Count System
6.1.1 Special Yarn Count of Balance — Prepare a skein of 109.73 m ( 120 yd )
on the wrap reel ( see Appendix B ) or take the specified length of yarn,
and place or hang it on the balance and read off the linear density of
yarn from the scale provided.
6.1.2 Pan Balance — Reel out skeins of 109.73 m ( 120 yd ) on the wrap
reel ( see Appendix B ) and then determine their mass in grams individu-
ally on the balance correct to 1 mg. Calculate the linear density of
yarn as given in 7.1.
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IS : 1315 - 1977

6.2 Tex System

6.2.1 Special Yarn Count Balance — Prepare a skein of 100 m on the wrap
reel ( see Appendix B ) or take the specified length of yarn, and place or
hang it on the balance and read off the linear density of yarn from the
scale provided.
6.2.2 Pan Balance — Reel out skeins of 100 m on the wrap reel ( see
Appendix B ) and determine their mass in grams, individually on the
balance correct to 1 mg. Calculate the linear density of yarn as given
in 7.2.
6.3 Test at least 30 test specimens.

7. CALCULATIONS
7.1 Cotton Count System — Calculate linear density of cotton yarn in
the cotton count system up to one decimal place by the following formula:

where
Ne = cotton yarn count; and
m = mass of skein of 109.73 m ( or 120 yd ), in grams
( see 6.1.2 ).

7.2 Tex System — Calculate the linear density of yarn in tex system up
to one decimal place by the following formula:

where
t = count of yarn in tex; and
m = mass of skein of 100 m, in grams ( see 6.2.2 ).
7.3 Calculate the average of all the values up to one decimal place and
report it as the average linear density of yarn.
7.4 Calculate the coefficient of variation ( CV ) of all the linear density
observations made.

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IS : 1315 - 1977

7.5 For conversion of cotton count to tex system the following formula
shall be used:

7.5.1 For interconversion of values from one system to the other,

reference to IS : 3689-1966* may be made.
8. REPORT
8.1 The report shall include the following information:
a) Type of yarn,
b) Average linear density in cotton count system and tex system,
c) CV of linear density, and
d) Number of test specimens tested.

*Conversion factors and conversion tables for yarn counts.

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IS : 1315 - 1977

APPENDIX A
( Clause 0.3 )
SI UNITS

TABLE 1 INTERNATIONAL SYSTEM OF UNITS

Base Units
QUANTITY UNIT SYMBOL

Length metre m
MASS kilogram kg
Time second s
Electric current ampere A
Thermodynamic kelvin K
temperature
Luminous intensity candela cd
Amount of substance mole mol

Supplementary Units
QUANTITY UNIT SYMBOL

Plane angle radian rad

Solid angle steradian sr

Derived Units
QUANTITY UNIT SYMBOL CONVERSION

Force newton N 1 N = 1 kg. 1 m/s 2

Energy joule J 1 J = 1 N.m
Power watt W 1 W = 1 J/s
Flux weber Wb 1 Wb = 1 V.s
Flux density tesla T 1 T = 1 Wb/m 2
Frequency hertz Hz 1 Hz = 1 c/s (s - 1 )
Electric conductance siemens S 1 S = 1 A/V
Pressure, stress pascal Pa 1 Pa = 1 N/m2

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TABLE 2 RECOMMENDED SI UNITS FOR TEXTILES

SL CHARACTERISTIC Sl UNIT METRIC U N I T APPLICATION

No.
Unit Abbreviation Unit Abbreviation

(1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7)

1. Length Millimetre mm — — Fibres

Millimetre, m m , cm — — Samples and test specimens
centimetre ( as appropriate )
Metre m — — Yarns, ropes and cordages,
fabrics
2. Width Millimetre mm Narrow fabrics
Centimetre cm — — Other fabrics
Millimetre, mm, cm — — Samples and test specimen
centimetre ( as appropriate )
Centimetre, metre cm, m — — Carpets, druggets, durries
9

— ( as appropriate )
3. Thickness Micrometre μm — —
— Delicate fabrics
( micron ) —
Millimetre mm — — Other fabrics, carpets, felts
4. *Linear density Tex tex — Yarns
Millitex mtex — — Fibres
Decitex dtex — Filament and filament
— yarns
Kilotex ktex — —
— Slivers, ropes and cordages
5. Diameter Micrometre μm — — Fibres

IS : 1315 - 1977
( micron )
Millimetre mm i — Yarns, ropes, cordages

*For conversion of values in traditional counts to the tex and vice versa, reference to IS : 3689-1966 'Conversion factors and
conversion tables for yarn counts' shall be made.
( Continued )
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TABLE RECOMMENDED SI UNITS FOR TEXTILES – Contd
SI. CHARACTERISTIC SI UNIT Metric Unit APPLICATION
No.
Unit Abbreviation Unit Abbreviation
(1) (2) (3) (5) (6) (7)
6. Circumference Millimetre (4) — — Ropes, cordages
7. Threads in cloth: mm
a) Length Number per ends/cm
centimetre
Number per ends/dm — —
decimetre — — Woven fabrics ( as appro-
b) Width picks/cm — — priate )
Number per
centimetre — —
Number per picks/dm —
decimetre
8. Warp threads in Number per ends/cm — — Reeds
loom centimetre
10

9. Stitches in cloth:
a) Length Number per courses/cm
centimetre
Number per courses/dm — —
decimetre — — Knitted fabrics ( as appro-
— — priate )
b) Width Number per wales/cm
centimetre — —
Number per wales/dm — —
decimetre
10. Stitch length Millimetre mm — — Knitted fabrics
Made-up fabrics
11. Mass per unit area Grams per square g/m 2 — — Fabrics
metre
12. Mass per unit length Grams per metre g/m — — Fabrics
13. Twist Turns per turns/cm — — Yarns, ropes ( as appro-
centimetre — — priate )
Turns per metre turns/m
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14. Test or gauge length Millimetre, m m , cm – – Fibres, yarns and fabric

centimetre specimens ( as appro-
priate )
15. Breaking load Millinewton mN grams force gf Fibres, delicate yarns
( skeins or individual )
Newton N kilogram force kgf Strong yarns ( individual
o r skeins ) , ropes and
c o r d a g e , fabrics
16. Breaking length Kilometre km – – Yarns
17. Tenacity Millinewton per mN/tex gram force gf/tex Fibres, yarns ( individual
tex per tex or skeins )
18. Twist factor or twist Turns per centi- turns/cm × √ tex –
multiplier metre × square
root of tex
Yarns ( as appropriate )
Turns per metre turns/m × √ tex — —
× square root
of tex
11

19. Bursting strength Newton per N/cm 2 kilogram force kgf/cm 2 Fabrics
square centi- per square
metre centimetre
20. Tear strength Millinewton mN grams force gf
Fabrics ( as appropriate )
Newton N kilogram force kgf
21. Pile height Millimetre mm Carpets
22. Pile density Mass of pile yarn g/m 2 /mm pile Pile carpet
in grams per height
square metre
per millimetre

IS : 1315 - 1977
pile height
23. Elastic modulus Millinewton per mN/tex/unit grams force gf/tex/unit Fibres, yams, strands
tex per unit deformation per tex per deforma –
deformation unit defor- tion
–
mation
NOTE — Where more than one unit have been given for one characteristic, any of the units
- may be used appropriate.
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APPENDIX B
( Clauses 5.3, 6.1.1, 6.1.2, 6.2.1 and 6.2.2 )
PREPARATION OF SKEINS

B-1. APPARATUS
B-1.1 To reel off the skeins, a wrap reel having a girth of 1.372 m
( 1.5 yd ) or 1 m shall be used. The wrap reel shall be fitted with thread
guides fixed on a horizontal bar which has a traverse of about 25 mm.
The wrap reel shall also be provided with a counting device to indicate
the length of yarn reeled out and a bell to ring just before the last
revolution or a reel that automatically stops after the required number of
revolutions.
B-2. PROCEDURE
B-2.1 Mount a test package on the wrap reel. Pass the end through the
thread guides taking care that the yarn shall be kept under sufficient
tension to. avoid kinks, curls and slack in the yarn on the one hand and
stretch on the other ( see Note ) and lead it to the reel.
NOTE — If necesaary, the yarn may be wound full one turn around the thread
guide.
B-2.2 Start the wrap reel. Running it at uniform speed, reel out a skein
of required length. Cut and tie the trailing end of the skein to its
leading end.

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IS : 1315 - 1977

APPENDIX C
[ Clause 5.5 ( Note ) ]
SKEIN GAUGE
C-1. APPARATUS
C-1.1 The gauge consists essentially of two round metal pegs of about
1.25 cm diameter and 5 to 6 cm long, located in the same vertical plane.
One of the pegs is fixed to the rigid frame of the instrument and the
other is carried on the lever of a simple loading system, the fulcrum
of which is a low-friction bearing, which is also carried on the frame.
At least one of the pegs should be free to rotate about its axis.
C-2. PROCEDURE
C-2.1 Place the skein without bunching, around the two pegs, and apply
the appropriate load, for example, by hanging a weight on the end of
the lever arm or by moving a sliding weight along the lever arm. The
girth of the skein is indicated, on a scale attached to the frame of the
instrument, by a pointer attached to the lever arm or by an index line
on the end of the lever arm. If L is the actual girth of the wrap reel,
d the diameter of the pegs, and D the distance between the axes of the
pegs when the indicator registers on the scale the actual girth of the
wrap reel, then

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