Exploring the World of Pattern
Making Books
A Comprehensive Guide to Foundational and Innovative
Resources
Pattern making stands at the heart of fashion design, tailoring, and
garment construction. The ability to transform a flat piece of fabric into a
structured, beautifully fitting garment relies on a deep understanding of
pattern making principles. Over the years, countless books have been
written to demystify this craft, catering to everyone from beginners
seeking simple projects to professionals mastering advanced techniques.
In this guide, we will explore the landscape of pattern making books—
those that have shaped the industry, inspired creativity, and cultivated
technical expertise.
Understanding Pattern Making: Why Books
Matter
Pattern making is both an art and a science, requiring spatial awareness,
precision, and creativity. Books on pattern making provide structured
learning, step-by-step guidance, and visual aids that are invaluable for
self-study as well as formal education. With the evolution of fashion and
technology, many books now include digital patterning techniques
alongside traditional methods.
The Essential Classics
1. “Patternmaking for Fashion Design” by Helen Joseph
Armstrong
Overview: Widely regarded as the industry standard, Armstrong’s book is
a comprehensive resource for students and professionals alike. It covers
everything from basic slopers to complex manipulations, including darts,
pleats, collars, sleeves, and tailored details.
Strengths: Step-by-step instructions; detailed illustrations; thorough
explanations of terminology and technique.
Audience: Beginners to advanced practitioners.
2. “Metric Pattern Cutting” by Winifred Aldrich
Overview: Aldrich’s series—spanning women’s wear, men’s wear, and
children’s wear—has been a European favourite for decades. Her metric-
based approach suits those working outside of the imperial system, and
her concise diagrams clarify even complex drafting techniques.
Strengths: Clear metric measurements; practical application;
adaptable blocks for varied sizes.
Audience: Beginners, students, and industry professionals,
especially in Europe and Commonwealth countries.
3. “Patternmaking Made Easy” by Connie Amaden-
Crawford
Overview: This book offers a highly visual and accessible approach,
making it an excellent starting point for those intimidated by the
technicality of pattern making.
Strengths: Simplified explanations; plentiful diagrams; focus on ease
of use.
Audience: Beginners and home sewing enthusiasts.
4. “The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion
Designers: Menswear” by Lori A. Knowles
Overview: Menswear pattern making demands unique slopers, fit
considerations, and styling details. Knowles’ guide is an authoritative
reference with a focus on foundational menswear forms, including shirts,
jackets, trousers, and coats.
Strengths: Detailed menswear-specific content; practical examples
and exercises.
Audience: Students and professionals focused on menswear.
5. “Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and
Leisurewear” by Ann Haggar
Overview: Specialized garments require specialized knowledge. Haggar’s
book dives into the intricacies of pattern cutting for stretch fabrics,
delicate details, and body-conscious silhouettes.
Strengths: Covers stretch fabric techniques; technical detail for
intimate apparel.
Audience: Intermediate to advanced pattern makers.
Modern Innovations and Digital Pattern
Making
6. “Digital Pattern Cutting for Fashion with Lectra
Modaris” by M Stott
Overview: As the fashion industry shifts towards digital solutions, books
like Stott’s guide bridge the gap between traditional drafting and
computer-aided design (CAD). It introduces readers to Lectra Modaris, a
popular software for digital pattern making.
Strengths: Step-by-step introduction to digital pattern cutting; case
studies; bridging manual to digital workflow.
Audience: Fashion students, designers, and those seeking to
modernize their skills.
7. “Patternmaking for Menswear” by Gareth Kershaw
Overview: A contemporary companion to traditional menswear guides,
Kershaw’s book offers innovative techniques and up-to-date styles.
Strengths: Modern silhouettes; clear instructions; industry
relevance.
Audience: Students, educators, and professionals.
Specialized Techniques and Creative
Exploration
8. “The Art of Manipulating Fabric” by Colette Wolff
Overview: Though not exclusively a pattern making book, Wolff’s classic
explores how fabric can be shaped, pleated, gathered, and sculpted—skills
that directly impact pattern design and creative garment construction.
Strengths: In-depth exploration of fabric manipulation; great for
creative designers.
Audience: Designers, costume makers, and experimental pattern
makers.
9. “Pattern Magic” Series by Tomoko Nakamichi
Overview: Nakamichi’s books have inspired designers around the world to
break free from conventional forms. The “Pattern Magic” series
demonstrates how to create extraordinary shapes, textures, and
silhouettes, often using origami principles.
Strengths: Unique, sculptural designs; visually stunning; pushes
creative boundaries.
Audience: Advanced designers; those seeking artistic inspiration.
10. “How to Make Sewing Patterns” by Donald H.
McCunn
Overview: McCunn’s book is praised for its practical approach to creating
patterns for custom fit and style. It simplifies the process for home sewers
and those interested in personal tailoring.
Strengths: Focus on fit and adaptation; accessible language.
Audience: Home sewers and beginners.
Pattern Making Books for Children’s Wear
“Metric Pattern Cutting for Children’s Wear and Babywear” by
Winifred Aldrich: This volume offers graded blocks and easy-to-
follow instructions perfect for designers or parents interested in
children’s fashion.
“Patternmaking for Kids’ Clothes” by Carla Hegeman Crim: A
modern, hands-on guide catering to the playful, practical needs of
children’s garments.
Additional Resources and Niche Books
Beyond these foundational and specialized texts, there are numerous
niche books that focus on historical pattern making, costume design,
outerwear, and sustainable pattern cutting. Some notable mentions
include:
“Costume Design: Techniques of Modern Costume Design” by
Rosemary Ingham and Liz Covey
“Pattern Cutting for Plus Sizes” by Gillian Holman
“Zero Waste Fashion Design” by Timo Rissanen and Holly McQuillan
Choosing the Right Pattern Making Book
Selecting a pattern making book depends greatly on one’s goals,
experience, and specific interests. Beginners may prefer books with step-
by-step photos and simplified instructions, while advanced practitioners
might seek out texts that challenge their understanding and spark
creativity. Consider these factors:
Your skill level: Are you new to sewing, or looking to refine your
professional skills?
Your area of interest: Do you want to focus on womenswear,
menswear, children’s wear, or specialized garments?
Preferred format: Are you comfortable with digital guides, or do you
prefer the tactile experience of physical books with large
illustrations?
Conclusion
The world of pattern making books is vast and continually evolving,
reflecting shifts in technology, fashion trends, and educational
approaches. Whether you are learning the basics, creating avant-garde
pieces, or mastering digital tools, there is a book to guide your way.
Collecting and studying these resources not only hones technical skill, but
also deepens appreciation for the artistry underpinning every garment.
For anyone passionate about clothes and construction, pattern making
books are indispensable companions on the journey from inspiration to
creation.