Beginner Gundog Lesson

Plans
Beginners course covers:

Loose lead walking, Off Lead heel work, Recalls, Stay - adding distance,
duration and distraction, beginners level stop, introduction to hunting an area,
informal, marked and memory retrieves.

Please ensure to read lesson 1 as I cover immediate and future training ideas
that you need to familiarise yourself with. I will not be covering some areas in
this lesson plan 1, however being aware of them will help protect you from
creating problems for the future.
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Lesson 1 5
Knowing Your Commands 5
Verbal Commands 5
Whistle commands 6
What whistle commands do we use? 6
Sit 6
Present and bringing to heel 6
Sit Stay/Wait 6
Stay Vs Wait... 6
Teaching the heel position 7
Notes on achieving loose lead walking: 8
Building Reward History During Heelwork 8
Teaching your dog to not pull by restricting forward movement 9
Option 1 10
Option 2 10
Focus Exercise 10
Steadiness 10
Where does steadiness begin? 11
What are you up against? 12
What might your dog need steadiness training for? 12
Can you flatten a dog's retrieve with steadiness training? 12
Steadiness to dummies 12
What is Management? How do I manage dogs during steadiness training? 13
Steadiness to shot 14
Steadiness to other dogs 14
Steadiness Exercise 15
Recall 15
Setting your dog up for the retrieve 15
Retrieving Preparation 16
Informal retrieves 16
The marked retrieve 17
The mechanics of the marked retrieve: 17
Lesson 2 18
Heel Work 18
Whistle Sit (An introduction to the stop whistle command) 18
During heel work: 18
Sit for dinner: 18
Tease with a toy and sit before the toy is released: 18
Sit Stay 19
Marked Retrieves 19
Steadiness 20
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Lesson 3 21
Heel work 21
Recall 21
Retrieving Skills 21
Marked Retrieves 22
Whistle sit: 22
Sit stay 22
Steadiness 23
Lesson 4 24
Heel work 24
Sit Stay 24
Whistle Sit (static and when walking) 24
Marked Retrieves 24
The mechanics of the memory retrieve: 25
Introducing The Hunt Whistle 25
Steadiness 26
Lesson 5 27
Heelwork 27
Recall 27
Sit Stay with steadiness exercises 27
Marked Retrieves 27
The Memory Retrieve and Hunt Whistle Combination 27
Lesson 6 28
Heelwork 28
Sit Stays with steadiness 28
Steadiness to the arm 28
Using a heeling lead to aid steadiness to the arm: 28
Marked Retrieves 29
Steadiness to dummies 29
Memory Retrieves 30
Stop Whistle 30
Lesson 7 31
Heel work 31
Steadiness to movement exercise 31
Marked retrieve 31
Memory Retrieves 32
Hunting exercises 32
Introducing The Turn Whistle 32
The Stop Whistle 32
Lesson 8 34
Heel work 34
Marked Retrieve 34
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The Memory Retrieve 34

Multi Dummy Retrieve 34
Stop whistle and Steadiness 35
Sit Stays 35
Find It/Hunting exercises 35
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Lesson 1

Knowing Your Commands

Verbal Commands

‘Back’ or ‘go back’ – often used to mean turn 180 degrees and run in the opposite
direction (after a stop) also used by some handlers to send a dog in a straight line
until they find the retrieve (most often on a blind retrieves rather than marked
retrieves)
‘Come’ – Recall
‘Fetch’ – a verbal command used to send a dog out on a seen retrieve. Often used
for informal retrieves and some people use it for marked retrieves.
‘Get in’ – a verbal command often given to a gundog meaning to “get in” water or
cover.
‘Get on’ – as per the command “back”, a verbal instruction used to indicate to your
dog to proceed in a straight line until finding a dummy/bird, or can be used to start a
spaniel hunting.
‘Get out’ or ‘out’ – a verbal command given to a gundog when using hand signals
to send them either the left or right. Some people use ‘left’ ‘right’ ‘away’
‘Go back and fetch’ – often used by HPR handlers when sending the dog out for a
retrieve
‘Heel’ – the dog beside its handler (normally on the left hand side) both on and off
lead.
‘Hi lost’ – a verbal command given to a gundog meaning to hunt in a particular area
when out on a retrieve. Some people use ‘find it’ or ‘there’
‘Hup’ – a verbal command to ‘sit’ most often used in the spaniel world
‘Over’ – a command used to tell the dog to jump, or get over, any obstacle such as a
stretch of water, a fence, ditch or fallen tree
‘Hold’ - asking the dog to pick something up
‘Dead’ - is commonly used to instruct the dog to release what they are holding. I
personally say "mine"
‘Leave’ - instructing the dog to not touch something.

Some handlers and trainers have a different command for marked retrieves and
memory/blind retrieves. I use the same consistent command which simply means,
run in the direction my arm is pointing and retrieve. Whether you choose to have a
separate command or the same command, be consistent and clear. Your dog needs
to trust you, your arm, and your send command.
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Whistle commands

When you start pairing your verbal commands to a whistle it's easy to do. Give your
dog the verbal command ie "come" as the dog starts approaching add the whistle
command (4 pips) whilst continuing to encourage the dog towards you and if need
be repeat the verbal command to reinforce.

As with the verbal commands, you can use whatever you choose, but, do ensure you
are consistent

What whistle commands do we use?

Recall - 4 pips
Sit whistle - 1 pip
Stop - 1 pip/blast
Turn on the whistle - 2 short pips
Hunt whistle - 2 pips (1 short followed immediately by 1 long)

Sit
Start by building duration with your dog next to you.

Remember, take your time training this daily and you build it up by 2 seconds per
day, in a month you will have achieved 1 full minute.

Don't try to build distance from you, and duration of time in the sit together, work on
one or the other at a time.

Present and bringing to heel

The present position is the sit in front of the handler position. This is used in recall
training to help develop a sitting delivery of the retrieve later on.

The heel position is the position your dog walks at heel. It is also where they sit or
stand ready to be sent for a retrieval.

Sit Stay/Wait
It is up to you what word you use to train your ‘stay’ or ‘wait’ you may choose to use
‘sit’

Stay Vs Wait...
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In an ideal world if you ask your dog to sit your dog will sit and remain in a sit until
you give a release command or another instruction, but, how many times at home do
you ask your dog to sit, expecting that to mean "sit stay" get busy doing something
else and when you look around, your dog has moved off and is doing something
else, and, you don't correct them?

Well, every time this happens you are weakening the "sit or stay" so this is just one
example of why using "stay" or "wait" in training can be useful.

If you are going to use "stay" and "wait" I find the following theory an easy way to
think about their meanings:

"Stay" - Do not move, I will return to you.

I always return to the dog so the dog learns to wait patiently, this takes time to build
as most dogs break a stay and come towards you as they lack confidence. If they
break the stay and wander off they are probably just bored and being a little bit
naughty.

Either way if you take your time training this daily and you build it up by 2 seconds
per day, in a month you will have achieved 1 full minute. Don't try to build distance
and duration together, work on one or the other at a time.

"Wait" - Wait in this position until I give you another command

(which could be a recall. It could be a change of position, like from a sit to a down, or,
it could be a "Get out" or a "Go back")

Using a "stay" or "wait" appears to speed up the learning process for some young
dogs.

Often as dogs mature you find the "sit" command alone is enough, usually because
they have developed confidence in sitting at a distance from you, and they have
developed a greater amount of self/impulse control.

The 3 Ds should be taken into account in your sit training. They are duration,
distance, and distractions.

Teaching the heel position

Practice bringing your dog into the heel position. You can teach your puppy where
the heel position is using a lure, or by guiding them into position.

Repeat this in repetitions of six, each time sit your dog in front of you and get their
attention then bring them to heel. Reward.

Achieving precision heelwork or even walking on a loose lead requires consistency

in training.
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Notes on achieving loose lead walking:

Loose lead does not mean long lead. There just needs to be a tiny amount of slack
simply so there is no tension on the lead. If you put a longer lead on your dog all you
will achieve is giving him more room for error. You need to first teach the dog what
you want (most easily done by building a reward history) and then correct him
(appropriately) as soon as he steps out of place. You need to ensure your dog is
being rewarded for being in the right place and correct as soon as he's out of place.
This is the basis of how dogs learn.

When training loose lead walking you require persistence and repetition. When
training whilst out walking, set a time period that you will keep practising rather than
planning to get from A to B. You may not get very far to start with.

If you are using treats as rewards whilst training ensure that they must meet the
following criteria to be suitable:

1) they must be valued highly enough that your dog is willing to work for them
2) they must be of a high enough value to keep attention away from distractions

By training your dog to enjoy walking by your side and paying attention to you,
ignoring distractions, you will also help strengthen the bond between you and your
dog that will benefit all further training.

If you are training a puppy or need to go back to basics the first steps to training your
dog to walk on a loose lead by your side, below is how to build a reward history:
(note, treats can be swapped for play/praise if your dog values it)

Building Reward History During Heelwork

Decide which side of your body you would like your dog to walk on, and have
everyone who walks your dog also stick to that side (creating this habit helps avoid
confusion and stops your dog from crossing from one side to the other).

Before you start walking, use a treat to lure your dog to the side of your body you
want him to be, say his name and as he looks up at you, praise him with a “good
boy” and start walking, and let him know that you have got a handful of treats.

Keep his attention on you by using your voice (a happy and excited voice is more
appealing to a dog than a monotone, gruff voice) Praise him and reward him
frequently for being in the right place.

If you are using food rewards, give him a treat every 5 paces, this will build up a
reward history in the dog's mind that walking on a loose lead with you is rewarding.

Immediately after you have given your dog one treat, have another ready and let him
know that you have more in your hand. Keep repeating the process; praise and
reward, every 5 paces. Therefore he learns that staying focused on you is rewarding.
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You should make sure that there are always several treats in your hand at the same
time. Giving the dog a treat and letting it see that you only had one, it will quickly
realise that there is only ever one treat available, and the dog will lose interest in you
once it has had the treat, and it will start pulling again immediately it has had the
food.

Daily practice on every walk using reward training will help build that ‘reward history’
and the habit of loose lead walking. In time the treats can be reduced and ultimately
eliminated, but not until the habit is embedded.

If your dog jumps up for the treat, raise your hand higher from it each time he does
so to keep them out of his reach, so he learns that jumping up is pointless. When all
paws are back on the floor, the dog must give a few paces of good loose lead
walking before being rewarded. This is how your dog should be walked every time it
is taken out on a lead.

Once the position is trained you can start to phase out the treats so you aren't bribing
the dog. As time goes on I like to reward my dog randomly for excellent heel work as
this keeps it consistent.

Teaching your dog to not pull by restricting forward

movement
For some dogs certain environments are just too exciting or distracting to be able to
efficiently mark and reward good behaviour with verbal praise/physical
praise/treats/toys. For those situations the following method of teaching walking on a
loose lead in the heel position is effective. It does not rely on marking behaviour with
rewards so can be performed anywhere although quicker progress will be made if
taught in environments that are not full of distractions.

This method relies on your dog being denied any forward movement unless the lead
is slack, it requires consistency, repetition and persistence. It should be performed
with the lead attached to a collar, or with a slip lead to achieve the directional control
that is required. The dog's reward during this exercise is forward motion (towards
whatever random goal they desire!), although anytime the lead is slack and the dog
is close to you verbal and physical praise should be used. Once the result of walking
on a slack lead is starting to be achieved, if you require a more traditional 'heel'
position you can start to ask for a more specific position.

There are 2 variations of this exercise, both aim to stop all forward motion, the first is
a hard stop, the second a swift change of direction. Either or both can be used
depending on the dogs/handlers size and strength.
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Option 1
Simply start with your dog on the lead beside you on a slack lead, and start to walk
forward. If your dog starts to walk ahead (appears in your peripheral vision) simply
stop dead. Imagine that the feeling you want your dog to feel is as if they have just
experienced an emergency stop in the car. Hold your position and encourage your
dog back to your side before moving off again. Praise the correct position. Repeat as
necessary.

Option 2
If your dog starts to walk ahead (appears in your peripheral vision) turn so that you
are facing the opposite direction. Give a double flick of the lead (never pulling back
on the dogs throat always to side or towards you) Immediately walk in the new
direction at a pace that ensures you pull your dog from that flick through from the
circular movement, until they catch up and the lead goes slack encourage and praise
your dog back at your side repeating as necessary.

If the dog walks in front further than you would like (although still with some slack on
the lead), either call them back to heel, or stop and then encourage them to come
back to your side before praising and moving off again.

Focus Exercise
Teaching the dog to focus on the handler is a very beneficial exercise.

You can utilise this in training sessions when your dog is distracted.

Start by taking a treat towards your lanyard or chin, as the dog looks up towards you
pair that action with your word, for example ‘look’ and reward the dog. Repeat it
about 6 times.

This exercise is best trained when there are very few distractions.

Steadiness
Steadiness is really a combination of obedience and self control. If we break it down
into two separate areas:

1. Being obedient/staying in a position and not moving until permission is given

2. Self control/self management

For many the dream is to have a dog who can work in the field, that does not need to
be restrained in any way. Others may dream of a dog who they can compete with.
Others dream of a dog they can share their life with, walk with, take to the local pub,
a dog who doesn't run after wildlife or other dogs. All these dreams require a dog
with a level of steadiness.
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Firstly I personally don't steady dogs on the retrieve too early, especially young dogs
or less than enthusiastic retrievers. I like to build drive on the retrieve BUT I still work
on steadiness exercises independently of the retrieve. This helps prevent dampening
drive on a retrieve but allows you to get a good grounding for steadiness in general.
When I train steadiness I use management to help prevent mistakes/self rewarding
in young beginner/novice dogs. I also use management when increasing the level of
distraction or making the exercise harder.

I also do what I call “layering the training” gradually increasing the

distractions/scenarios etc building on previous successes.

You may run into problems during your dog's adolescent stage, your young gundog
might start pushing the boundaries, and, generally testing to see what he can get
away with. It is very easy to get over excited and push on too quickly with training a
young gundog, especially a very naturally driven dog. If training has been rushed or
pieces skipped (especially where steadiness is concerned) or, if there is
inconsistency in training, you will find things may start to fall apart later on. Getting
the basics solid before moving on will help prevent this, but, if things do go wrong,
don't beat yourself up about it, or dwell on it, just go back a step and start again.

As you progress through our levels and the difficulty of the exercises increases, and
the level of excitement increases it is super important to continue to practise your
basics and foundations in between sessions. Those foundations are what hold things
together later on.

Equally we do have to stretch the dogs to progress them. When stretching a young
dog it may highlight strengths and it may highlight areas which need more work, this
is completely normal and to be expected.

Other reasons things go wrong especially with steadiness training include dogs
lacking self control or simply the dog has developed bad manners.

Where does steadiness begin?

It really does start in the home, with self control and good manners. A dog with good
manners tends to be more receptive to steadiness training in the context I am talking
about. This includes but is not exclusive to doorway manners (includes car
doors/boots/crates) food manners, and, patience.

You also need a reliable sit and stay. In a nutshell for the steadiness I am referring to
in a training session you need a reliable sit/stay command.

As I have said before I use management a lot. What do I manage?

At best I can manage the environment, the exercise, the dog, and the level of
distraction. That's a lot of management.
Whether working with dogs on a 1-2-1 basis or in group classes I see a wide range
of dogs with various strengths and weaknesses in steadiness training.
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Some dogs may be steady to shot but find moving objects like dummies rather
tempting. Some dogs might be steady to dummies but find the sight of another dog
retrieving over arousing. Some dogs may not be bothered by other dogs retrieving
but believe that every shot means there is a retrieve for them.

What are you up against?

One of the big factors is Prey drive/Instinct. Dogs have an instinct to chase (prey
drive) It takes management, consistent training, rewarding the behaviours you like,
and layering up of the training to successfully achieve steadiness.

What might your dog need steadiness training for?

Dummies/dogs/people/moving dogs/dogs retrieving/shot/birds/rabbits

Can you flatten a dog's retrieve with steadiness training?

With a young dog or a reluctant retriever I do a lot of steadiness exercises

completely separately to the retrieve. Before I add steadiness to a retrieve I ensure
the dog is a keen retriever. Personally I don’t steady a dog that is a reluctant
retriever, or, a dog who is hit and miss with retrieving. It can dampen a young dog’s
enthusiasm if introduced to steadiness to the retrieve too early.

I can still work on general steadiness though, which gives a fantastic head start to
steadiness training, even when working with a less than enthusiastic retriever. For
example, I make sure the dog has established a reliable sit/stay, I add distractions
into a sit stay, I work on the dogs steadiness around other dogs, I introduce them to
steadiness to shot.

If you layer the training it is very achievable to maintain steadiness as the dogs drive
to retrieve increases. When layering the training there are 3 areas to build
on...distance, duration and distraction...work on these independently before putting
them together.

If you have a really keen retriever, or a really full on dog, it's really useful to do the
groundwork, self control, and obedience first. The stronger your obedience, the
easier it is to manage and control a super driven dog.

Steadiness should be layered up from the bottom up.

Steadiness to dummies
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There are a few factors to consider, firstly does your dog have good manners around
the dummy, your dog shouldn't be trying to mug you for the dummy. I practise lots of
heel work carrying a dummy and heel work around dummies on the floor.

The speed at which the dummy is travelling may make a huge difference to the dog,
simply dropping a dummy can look less exciting than an enthusiastic throw.
Some dogs may find a dummy high in the sky (like a falling bird) super exciting, but a
low fast dummy (simulating a flush) may really excite another dog.

The angle the dummy is coming from can make a huge difference to the dog, a
dummy being thrown from in front of the dog is often less exciting than a dummy
coming over head from behind the dog.

The distance between the dummy and the dog as well as the distance between the
dog and the handler should also be considered.

The position of the handler, to the dog, and to the dummy is also a factor to consider,
for example, is the handler closer to the dummy (possibly between the dog and
dummy) or is the dog closer to the dummy than the handler.

All these factors should be considered as part of the steadiness training to dummies.
All of these factors can be applied to steadiness to birds/rabbits/shot etc too.

Once the dog is steady to dummies I like to introduce the dog to a ‘bolting rabbit’ as
this is a good stepping stone to rabbits/birds. I also simulate flushes with feather/fur
dummies and dummy launchers. It can also be useful to find a rabbit pen or
pheasant pen

To train your dog not to run in and only go for a retrieve when asked I like to use a
heeling lead/tag/short slip lead/ and I mix it up, sometimes I walk out and get the
dummy myself. I also practise arm in, arm out, the voice should tell the dog to go, not
the arm. If your dog is running the moment you speak, use a heeling lead to prevent
the dog running in and say lots of silly words, the dog should learn to listen for the
permission word. By being unpredictable you can avoid issues like dogs believing
they know what's coming next.

Steadiness is an area where people often forget to reward the dog for the behaviour
they want. Never forget to reward the behaviour you want, this will help you get more
of that behaviour. Rewards can be a treat, verbal praise, physical praise, a release
and play, a retrieve...whatever floats your dog's boat.

Steadiness is also an area where people often start nagging the dog. This is a
slippery slope as if you start nagging the dog, constantly telling the dog to sit or stay
they will likely become reliant on constant nagging, making quiet handling very
difficult. This is why I prefer to use management and reward to teach the dog
steadiness.

What is Management? How do I manage dogs during steadiness training?

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I like to use a Heeling lead/tag/short slip lead/training line. With a heeling lead or tag
it is short but there should be no tension when the dog is doing the right thing. If you
are using placeboards or similar (hoops/markers) in your training they can also be
used to aid steadiness training.

When you are increasing the difficulty or distraction remember to reward the dog for
every behaviour you like.

Steadiness to shot

Many dogs I see for steadiness issues to shot comes down to how the dog views the
shot, most commonly the dog hears the shot and believes that means run. Now
depending on the dog I vary how the dog is introduced to shot, so, for confident, bold
dogs who are easily aroused I teach sit to shot for a reward before the dog retrieves
with shot. Think about the dog's point of view, where is the reward coming from? For
shy/less confident dogs who are unsure about shot (not gun shy) I pair the shot with
something really exciting like play or a retrieve much quicker. All depends on the
dog.

Teaching a sit on shot will aid stopping on [Link] stronger your obedience, the
easier it is to manage and control a super driven dog. If your dog is really excited by
a shot I'd recommend using sounds on your phone, a cap gun, or even party
poppers at home and on walks. Make it less of an event. Bang doesn't always mean
retrieve. We do alot of this in our advanced classes.

Steadiness to other dogs

Start with basic obedience around other dogs: heel, recall, sit, stay. The stronger
your obedience, the easier it is to manage and control an over excited dog.
To develop steadiness around multiple dogs, you have a few options, group classes,
a training buddy, working on general obedience in public where there are other
dogs...this is the trickiest option as you are not guaranteed the other dog is under
control, however it's a good way to test your training.

I only introduce training/working 2 dogs together when I have achieved a good level
of reliability and steadiness with 1. When I first add the second dog I go back to
management too, so I may have the youngest/more novice dog at your side on a
heeling lead and the older/more experienced dog on the outside. I ask the dog
staying to stay/wait just once, the heeling lead will prevent mistakes, then I send the
other dog. It's good to use management and layer up the training. Set your dogs up
for success, don't rush the training.

How do you train steadiness and keep the activity fun? Games/rewards/Play are
great ways to make steadiness training fun and not flatten the dog. For example: In
the early stages of training I may reward steadiness to shot with playing with my dog.
This could be tuggy or catch. It could even be a retrieve, but, as I don't want the dog
running in, I may with eager dogs throw the retrieve behind, not in front.
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Steadiness Exercise

Practise this steadiness exercise:

Have your dog on a lead. Drop a toy or dummy to the opposite side that your dog is
on, and pick it up yourself.

You want your dog to sit steady and have good manners around the dummy.

Recall
Recall is important.

Find out what motivates your puppy or dog and use this to reward your dog when
you recall them.

Layer up the rewards, sometimes give one reward , sometimes give more than one.
Teach a release command so your dog learns to stay with you until released

When training a reliable recall make sure that as many recalls as possible are
successful, if you know your dog is unlikely to recall then go fetch them rather than
waste the recall command. Over the next few weeks practise both natural recalls (
these are where your dog is not focused on you or training with you) and static
recalls from a sit/stay position.

Add the present (sit is front) to your recall as this will help you later on with the formal
retrieval. remember to work with your 3D’s.

Setting your dog up for the retrieve

How you set your dog up for a retrieve (any retrieve) is important. This is you
communicating to your dog what you want from them, think of it as sign language. It
is important to ensure you are consistent and clear with what your setting up looks
like. Take your time setting the dog up for the retrieve.

Check where the dog is looking, make sure they are looking in the direction your arm
is pointing. The dog should be focused and locked on. If your dog is looking to the
left and you send them, don't be surprised if they veer off to the left. Also check the
position in which your dog is sitting, again the dog should be sitting next to you, with
their body facing the same way as you.
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The actual casting off (send) position is also important, always keep in mind that it is
a language between you and the dog. The dog should be at heel, and facing the way
you are facing.

What about the handlers body position? Some trainers and handlers bend their
knees, some step back with the leg closest to the dog. Do what you feel comfortable
for you, but be consistent. I have used both techniques, and I find benefits in both,
and I personally find some dogs better with one technique than the other.

For less enthusiastic or less confident dogs I have found that stepping back with the
leg closest to the dog and moving your weight into the front leg, so that your body
shifts forward with the arm outstretched can almost act like a ready, steady, go
movement and help create a forward energy. Generally I have found this action
positive with a more relaxed dog, it seems to suddenly engage and switch on, as if it
changes their mindset.

I have found with some (not all) over keen dogs the movement of stepping back with
the leg closest to the dog can trigger pulling forward, if this happens the arm is not
clearly in view, and if the dog is forward of heel, sitting wonky, or looking in a different
direction they can not clearly see the outstretched arm which indicates the direction
they should be running, so they are more likely to make a mistake. A very fizzy dog
may (not always) be better suited to a gentle bend of the knees and outstretched
arm.

Retrieving Preparation
Early Preparation can be incredibly useful with retrieving. With puppies or young
beginner level dogs I use my arm on informal retrieves and basic marked retrieves to
start building a strong association on following and trusting the arm, think of it pairing
an action with a behaviour.

Once I have moved on to memory retrieves and the dog is very confident on memory
retrieves I then start phasing out the arm on marked retrieves. If the dog has marked
the area of fall accurately they should not need guidance on direction.

The arm is nothing more than direction guidance. The voice is permission to go.
I use memory retrieves to continue to build confidence on trusting the arm for
direction.

Be consistent in your body language and commands. Without realising it, we can get
into a bad habit of changing our commands, especially when things go wrong.

Informal retrieves

An informal retrieve designed to build a young dog's desire to retrieve. An informal

retrieve is a game of [Link] are ideal for getting a young dog started with some
fun retrieves.
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We don't ask for steadiness with an informal retrieve

Have the dog facing the way you are going to throw the informal retrieve, this helps
them learn to mark the area of fall

The marked retrieve

A marked retrieve is one the dog has seen fall. Marking is the act of accurately
memorising the location at which the falling dummy or bird has reached the ground.

Some dogs have more natural ability than others, but training and experience will
improve the dogs marking ability.

Take into consideration distance and terrain when training a marked retrieve. Start
with short retrieves on flat ground and slowly increase distance and add in uneven
ground.

The mechanics of the marked retrieve:

● Set your dog up ready to retrieve and adopt your casting off (send) position
● Throw the dummy (retrieve) with the arm furthest away from the dog
● Leave the arm outstretched after you have thrown the dummy like an arrow
pointing at the dummy.
● Ensure your arm is forward, not pointing at the floor, or the sky.
● Check the dog is looking in the direction of the dummy before you send them
● Send the dog with your send command/cue ie “Get On”
● Keep your arm out until the dog has gone past it
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Lesson 2

Heel Work
Using inside turns (turning into the dog) can help improve the dog's heel position and
teaches them to be more aware of where you are walking and your movement and
speed. Using upright poles (or similar) can help when training inside turns.

Your dog should be matching your pace, not you matching your dog's pace, so
change your pace to ensure your dog is matching your pace.

Whistle Sit (An introduction to the stop whistle command)

Ways to introduce the sit whistle:

During heel work:

Ask your dog to sit, as they sit pip the whistle once and reward.

Sit for dinner:

Ask your dog to sit before you put their food bowl down, as they sit pip the whistle
once and put the bowl down

Tease with a toy and sit before the toy is released:

Use a toy or something else your dog likes, tease the dog, raise the hand with the
toy in it, as the dog sits pip the sit whistle once, as soon as they are sitting throw the
toy to the dog
 19

Sit Stay

Once you have built up some duration with the dog by your side, start to introduce
distance.

Always return to the dog so the dog learns to wait patiently. Once you return to the
dog, praise and release.

This takes time to build.

Most dogs break a stay and come towards you if they lack confidence.

If they break the stay and wander off they are probably just bored or distracted.

Begin to develop your dog's sit and stay, gradually adding movement with you
stepping away to the side, and then when your dog is not getting up you can begin to
walk around the front of them in an arc.

Remember in the early stages of your training ensure that your stays are easy
enough for your dog to grasp what you want and be successful, then increase how
long they must stay and how much you move around.

Recall

Include present and then bring into the heel position

Retrieving

Continue to practise your informal retrieves to keep your dog excited about
retrieving, and start to add the occasional formal marked retrieve.

Marked Retrieves
Perfecting your setting and casting off position without your dog, check you are being
consistent

The marked retrieve requires a bit more control (steadiness) but you can have a
heeling lead so that you can stop them running in as you throw the dummy.

Using a heeling lead to aid steadiness on the marked retrieve:

I ask the dog to wait once, and then remove the slip lead, gently holding the heeling
lead with no tension on it. It is important that there is no pressure on the heeling
lead, the dog believe that they are free, and if the dog goes to move they self correct
(pressure goes on to the heeling lead) When the dog is sitting next to you by your
 20

side there should be no tension or pressure on the lead, if they go to move they self
correct. Get into a habit of only asking once.

Reward your dog for being steady by sending them on the retrieve.

If they were not steady walk the dog out at heel whilst you pick up the retrieve, or
leave the dog in a sit whilst you go get the retrieve.

This can take time, mainly because it takes self control to sit steady unaided, and
young dogs learn self control through training and maturity.

By taking this approach you can get steadiness without frustration, as we have
educated the dog that being steady is rewarding.

As long as your dog isn't losing the desire to chase the dummy you can start to
increase the number of more formal retrieves in your sessions and reduce the
number of informal retrieves.

Steadiness
Continue to practise the steadiness exercise from the last lesson dropping a toy or
dummy away to your side and then leave your dog and pick it up yourself, returning
to your dog and praising them.

Increase the distance away from you that the dummy is.

Always return to the dog to reward them and then release them
 21

Lesson 3

Heel work
Continue to practise your heel work over short distances, periodically leaving your
dog in a sit and walking away, then calling them to sit in front then asking them to
come to heel.

Continue to practise your sit (or sit whistle) during your heelwork practice,
periodically slowing up and pipping your whistle as your dog either automatically sits
or as you ask them to. You want to try to get the whistle pip as your dog's bottom
touches the floor. This will help create a strong association with the sound and the
action.

Add some steadiness to your heelwork. Drop a dummy on the floor and heel past it.
This is a core foundation exercise for helping teach steadiness and good manners.

Recall
From a distraction (could be scented ground) into present (sit in front) followed by a
finish into the heel position.

Retrieving Skills

Continue to practise a mix of informal retrieves and some formal retrieves.

Remember you should stop before your dog gets bored, unless you have a dog with
a high drive to retrieve you should balance how many controlled retrieves in a
session with the fun stuff.
 22

Marked Retrieves

Troubleshoot any problems you have. Video yourself and check your casting off
position, and the setting of the dog is consistent.

The dogs should now be getting the idea of running out to the retrieve (sent on the
voice not the arm) and returning with the retrieve even if some encouragement is
needed and some work on the delivery.

Marked Retrieves thrown by a helper can be introduced if you have someone to

help.

Your dog should now be getting used to the idea of sitting steady until sent with you
throwing, and must now learn to behave the same when someone else throws the
dummy.

Whistle sit:

Check your dog is understanding sitting on the whistle by continuing to walk when
you blow your sit whistle

You may need to turn to face your dog and walk backwards away from them so that
they can see the hand gesture as you move away from them

Return to your dog, reward and release

Sit stay

With a thrown article (throw instead of drop) leave the dog in a sit whilst you collect
the dummy

If your dog is likely to run in you may need to turn to face your dog and walk
backwards away from them so that they can see the hand gesture as you move
away from them

Return to your dog, reward and release

 23

Steadiness
Increase the value of the item you are using in the above exercise.

Make sure that whatever you are using to train with (a toy or dummy) has high
enough value that your dog wants it so that they learn to resist chasing the things
they want.
 24

Lesson 4
Heel work
Continue to practise your heel work in short sessions (about 5 mins) these help to
get your dog to 'switch on' before you start retrieving.

Your dog should now have some idea that the whistle means to sit so each time you
slow to halt pip the whistle and your dog should respond accordingly.

Sit Stay
Add some movement. Make sure you are able to step away and around the dog

Whistle Sit (static and when walking)

Mix up stopping with your dog and asking them to sit whilst you continue walking

Marked Retrieves
Practise a couple of formal marked retrieves and then using the same location for
your dummy begin to introduce the memory retrieval exercise described in this
week's session plan.

The Memory Retrieve

This is the retrieve we introduce once you have mastered the marked retrieve. The
memory retrieve is a fantastic retrieve for developing confidence ready for blind
retrieves and for extending distance on your retrieves.

A memory retrieve does not need to be difficult at first, rather than actually expecting
your dog to use its memory to remember where the dummy is. We simply use this
exercise to get your dog to take their eyes off the retrieve and then trust the direction
that you point them in will result in finding a retrieve.
 25

The mechanics of the memory retrieve:

● Start with walking your dog to heel (on lead)

● Stop (whistle sit or automatic sit for dogs who are at that stage in the training)
● Drop (or throw) the retrieving item just in front of you and your dog
(demonstrating steadiness)
● Turn your dog at heel (precision heel turn)
● heel away from the retrieve (on or off lead)
● Heel turn (precision heel turn)
● Set the dog up to face the retrieve (position yourself into the casting off
position. Check your dog is looking in the right direction (at the dummy) and
locked on to the retrieve (steady to arm)
● Send for the retrieve (run out, pick and return)
● Delivery of the retrieve (from a stand or a sit)
● pop the dummy away (dog shouldn't try to mug you)
● Bring the dog to heel(finish)

As you can see, there are alot of individual elements in the memory retrieve. If you
work through each element with 'intent' you will be working on several areas of your
dog's training in one exercise. If you simply 'go through the motions' the exercise is
likely to look sloppy and the dog may not be working to the best of their ability.

Start really short! If you do this you are setting your dog up for success, will develop
lovely lines out and build your dog's confidence ready for blind retrieves.

To build confidence do the memory where you have already completed a marked
retrieve.

Increase distance really slowly by dropping the retrieve in the same place but
walking away a couple of extra paces.

If your dog stops short you've increased the distance too soon. Call the dog back
and start again shorter.

If you keep pushing the dog they may become sticky retrievers and need constant
pushing rather than going out confidently in one smooth ‘get on’

Introducing The Hunt Whistle

Start by using your verbal command when asking your dog to put their nose down to
look for things they have seen you hide in long grass, or on a memory retrieve.

Once the dog gets the hang of this, start pairing that action with the hunt whistle.
Hunt whistle - 2 pips (1 short followed immediately by 1 long)

The typical whistle sounds a little like a 'twit twoo' of an owl, if you use a command it
could be something as simple as 'find it', 'there', or 'hi lost'. Simply give your dog a
retrieve or ask them to hunt in an area of long grass where they know something has
 26

been thrown but ensure the exact place it lands is not immediately visible. At the
point they start looking, give the hunt command or whistle, at the moment you are
pairing the action with the sound rather than actually asking the dog to hunt.

You want to keep your dog hunting in a relatively small area as we are teaching them
to hunt an area in this exercise.

Steadiness
Time to start working through the 9 HMH steadiness videos?
 27

Lesson 5
Heelwork
Your dog should now have the hang of quite a few new concepts. Continue to
practise your heelwork, sit whistle and small recalls into a sit and coming to heel and
if you are able to start to 'proof' what your dog has learnt in ever more distracting
environments. This could be as simple as performing the above obedience exercises
when there is another dog in sight.

Recall
Dogs recalling past other dogs and with distractions is your next recall challenge, so
if you can meet with friends to train this is a great way of practising this in a
controlled way, otherwise take your recall into more distracting places.

Present and Finish at the end of your recall will help your delivery of the retrieve.

Sit Stay with steadiness exercises

Dogs in a sit, owner to leave the dog, drop or throw a dummy, walk around the dog
before picking up the item

Collect the dummy and return to your dog to reward and release them

Marked Retrieves
Continue with your formal marked (thrown) retrieves

The Memory Retrieve and Hunt Whistle Combination

If your dog is holding a nice line on memory retrieves which are visible, you can now
throw or drop your memory retrieves into cover (long grass is ideal) so that you can
ask your dog to hunt as they arrive in the area, near the location of the dummy.
 28

Lesson 6

Heelwork
Continue with your obedience drills from the previous lessons.

Introduce off-lead heel work. You can start by dropping the lead discreetly on the
floor during heel work

Sit Stays with steadiness

Start to add walking around the dog, and, dropping more than one distraction at a
time

Pick the items up once you have finished, return to your dog, reward and release.

Steadiness to the arm

Remember, your dog should not be running on the arm movement, but on the voice,
so an arm movement shouldn't be the trigger. You should be able to move your arm
without your dog thinking they are being sent.

One of my favourite ways of developing steadiness on the retrieve includes using a

heeling lead. Why? Because I don't want to get into a habit of constantly verbally
reminding the dog to be steady. I don't want to hold the collar (the dog is aware you
are restraining him/her)

Using a heeling lead to aid steadiness to the arm:

I ask the dog to wait once, and then remove the slip lead, gently holding the heeling
lead with no tension on it. It is important that there is no pressure on the heeling
lead, the dog believe that they are free, and if the dog goes to move they self correct
(pressure goes on to the heeling lead) When the dog is sitting next to you by your
side there should be no tension or pressure on the lead, if they go to move they self
correct. Get into a habit of only asking once.

It is also useful to say other words whilst the arm is out, this ensures your dog is
listening for the send word, not just running in as soon as you speak.
 29

Reward your dog for being steady. Make it worthwhile. Just like heelwork, sitting
steady is not naturally self rewarding for the dog, so this means we have to build a
reward history, and build up the dogs ability to sit steady.

This can take time, mainly because it takes self control to sit steady unaided, and
young dogs learn self control through training and maturity.

By taking this approach you can get steadiness without frustration, as we have
educated the dog that being steady is rewarding.

Marked Retrieves
You should now be adding steadiness and polish to the marked retrieve

If your dog is struggling with steadiness to the mark retrieve this might be useful to
remind yourself of:

Steadiness to dummies

There are a few factors to consider, firstly does your dog have good manners around
the dummy, your dog shouldn't be trying to mug you for the dummy. I practise lots of
heel work carrying a dummy and heel work around dummies on the floor.

The speed at which the dummy is travelling may make a huge difference to the dog,
simply dropping a dummy can look less exciting than an enthusiastic throw.

Some dogs may find a dummy high in the sky (like a falling bird) super exciting, but a
low fast dummy (simulating a flush) may really excite another dog.

The angle the dummy is coming from can make a huge difference to the dog, a
dummy being thrown from in front of the dog is often less exciting than a dummy
coming over head from behind the dog.

The distance between the dummy and the dog as well as the distance between the
dog and the handler should also be considered.

The position of the handler, to the dog, and to the dummy is also a factor to consider,
for example, is the handler closer to the dummy (possibly between the dog and
dummy) or is the dog closer to the dummy than the handler.

All these factors should be considered as part of the steadiness training to dummies.
All of these factors can be applied to steadiness to birds/rabbits/shot etc too.

Once the dog is steady to dummies I like to introduce the dog to a bolting rabbit as
this is a good stepping stone to rabbits/birds. I also simulate flushes with feather/fur
 30

dummies and dummy launchers. It can also be useful to find a rabbit pen or
pheasant pen

To train your dog not to run in and only go for a retrieve when asked I like to use a
heeling lead/tag/short slip lead/ and I mix it up, sometimes I walk out and get the
dummy myself. I also practise arm in, arm out, the voice should tell the dog to go, not
the arm. If your dog is running the moment you speak, use a heeling lead to prevent
the dog running in and say lots of silly words, the dog should learn to listen for the
permission word. By being unpredictable you can avoid issues like dogs believing
they know what's coming next.

Memory Retrieves
As well as using cover (long grass) start to extend your distance away from the
retrieve

To build confidence, use the same area but increase your distance away by a few
paces at a time.

Stop Whistle
This lesson's obedience element is progressing your stop whistle with your dog in
front of you. This can be whilst the dog is mooching ahead of you, or when coming
towards you.

At this stage it is very beneficial to throw a high value reward to the dog (toy or ball
on a rope are good) so that they are rewarded for the stop in the stop position.

Set yourself a goal of stopping them at an imaginary line. You will start to understand
how much notice your dog needs depending on the speed that they are moving to
stop on the line.

When you practise the stop when coming towards you periodically substitute a stop
for a simple recall so that your dog does not get sticky (creeping towards you
expecting to be stopped)
 31

Lesson 7

Heel work
The obedience required includes obedience around the other dogs so you may need
to go to distracting places or meet with friends to practise heel work around other
dogs and people.

Off lead heel work and recalls in new areas

Your dog should be coming to the heel position tidily now. To add to the finesse of
your retrieving and handling you can now introduce turning at heel. Your dog is used
to turning through 180 degrees to get to your side, by simply turning yourself a
quarter turn as you ask them to come to heel, your dog will come round further and
line up with you.

Steadiness to movement exercise

Steadiness to movement training is similar to stop whistle training but the rewarding
is different as we are conditioning a stop to movement, so throwing a reward for the
dog to chase may confuse the dog.

You have already been practicing heel work with whistle sit (stop whistle) with no
distractions so now we can add environmental distractions on a walk, that can be
absolutely anything that moves, or simulated distractions from you or a helper ie you
walk the dog to heel and throw a tennis ball ahead of the dog, blow the whistle as the
ball wizzes away.

Reward the dog in the sit position (you walk out and pick up the distraction)

Marked retrieve

You should now be adding steadiness and polish to the marked retrieve.
 32

Even if the distance is quite short your dog should be starting to understand the
concept of the marked retrieve.

Memory Retrieves

Practise both seen and in cover at various distances

Hunting exercises

There are 2 types of hunting that your dog will perform for you.

The first is when you ask them to hunt a small area as you know something is there.
This is holding an area or hunting an area which we have already introduced and
can be practised daily.

Introducing The Turn Whistle

This lesson introduces the second type of hunting. This incorporates the turn on the
whistle, which is simply starting to control the natural hunting pattern of your dog so
that you can keep them within a defined but more vast area.

When you first start to turn your dog on a whistle, only turn your dog once before
they find their reward, and then build the number of turns before they find the reward
as they become confident running across in front of you.

With Spaniels or HPR breeds this may be called hunting up, or quartering. Retrievers
can also be taught this skill as it is useful for sweeping the field looking for missing
retrieves.

The Stop Whistle

Adding distance and duration to the stop. Start with no distractions, just add the stop
whistle when the dog is away from you, gradually building distance, you can do this
with dog mooching, no distractions. When the dog stops (sits) , do not recall the dog,
 33

go to dog and reward the dog with food, verbal praise or a fuss. Do not throw a toy
as we are now looking to add duration and some steadiness to the stop.

If the dog creeps towards you, don't make a big deal of it, walk quietly to the dog,
pop the slip lead on, walk the dog to where they moved from and blow the stop
whistle, leave the dog, then return to the dog and reward in the stop whistle position.
 34

Lesson 8

Heel work
Your dog should be coming to the heel position tidily now and should be starting to
understand that the same behaviours are required even in more distracting places.

Start to incorporate whistle sits on the move, stays, and steadiness into your
heelwork

Marked Retrieve
Marked retrieves into cover will challenge your dogs ability to mark an area of fall
where the retrieve is not visible

The Memory Retrieve

Start to add natural barriers

Memory retrieves through gateways, hedges and across ditches are good examples
of adding natural barriers

Multi Dummy Retrieve

Introducing your first multiple retrieve to your dog.

Hopefully by now your dog is picking up a retrieve and coming straight back to you.

Your first multi dummy retrieve puts you between the 2 dummies so that you have
the maximum chance of your dog not swapping them or trying to pick up both
dummies. If your dog tries to run past you to get the 2nd dummy and you are unable
to prevent them then either continue practising single retrieves until they come
directly back or have someone stand near the second dummy to prevent them being
successful in getting to it until you ask them to retrieve it.
 35

Stop whistle and Steadiness

Continue adding distance and duration to the stop. Start with no distractions, just add
the stop whistle when the dog is away from you, gradually building distance, you can
do this with dog mooching, no distractions. When the dog stops (sits) do not recall
the dog, go to dog and reward the dog with food, verbal praise or a fuss. Do not
throw a toy as we are now looking to add duration and some steadiness to the stop.

Sit Stays
With multiple distractions

Find It/Hunting exercises

Ask your dog to hunt areas of cover or long grass for hidden items