Luna Dress
Luna was designed to make every woman’s body look long and elegant featuring a
dramatic lace motif pattern. Luna can be worn as a two piece set or dress. She’s comfortable,
easy to wear and makes a stunning statement.
For questions concerning this pattern feel free to reach out to designer Dominique
Calvillo at [email protected] Please tag @Namaste_and_crochet and
#NamasteAndCrochet for a chance to be featured on social media platforms.
It is illegal to redistribute, sell or share this pattern in part or in whole, electronically or
physically. You may sell items created using this pattern with your own two hands but may not
manufacture products produced by this pattern in any way. You must credit Namaste and Crochet
as the designer for all sales, postings and media coverage. ©2020 All rights reserved
©Namaste and Crochet The Luna Skirt Page 1 of 17
DESIGN DETAILS:
The Luna Skirt is comprised of rounds of two connect as you go motifs. The Large motifs
will be completed and connected first. The small motifs and half small motifs will connect the
remaining points. The rounds of motifs are worked from top down. The waist is finished with a
border and fastens with a draw string. A simple lace border is used to finish the edges.The
pictured skirt is 4 motifs around and 5 motifs long with the slit beginning in the third round of
motifs.
Worked in two matching panels; starting in the center of the bust line and working out.
Size refers to cup size. Under arm section is adjustable and corresponds to bra band size.
The under arm section is not intended to go all the way around your back. There should be some
space in between for the corset ties to lace you up.
SIZING:
For the skirt: Each large motif is 8’’ in length. Make as many as needed to go around the widest
part of the hips with 2- 8 inches of positive ease depending on desired look. The skirt will be
fastened with an adjustable draw string. The pictured skirt is 4 motifs around and 5 rows of
motifs long.
For the top: Small (A & B cup)
Medium (C & D cup)
Large (DD and E cup)
There will be further instructions for additional sizes and customization options.
MATERIALS:
3.75 mm hook
2,300- 1,500 yards of Sport/Fine Weight Yarn. Shown in Yarn Bee Mimosa
Tapestry needle
Stitch markers
GAUGE SWATCH:
Gauge Swatch: 4” x 4” = 18 dc x 9 rows
Large motif is 8’’ around with 3’’ positive ease
Small motif is 4 1/2’’ around with 2’’ positive ease
STITCHES USED:
** repeat in between stars
() repeat in between parenthesis
ch – chain
sp- space
sc – single crochet
ss – slip stitch
dc – double crochet
tc - triple crochet
(s) - stitch(sts)
©Namaste and Crochet The Luna Skirt Page 2 of 17
dc4tog – double crochet four together.
(Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through 2
loops) repeat 3 more times, yarn over, draw through all loops on hook—3 stitches decreased.
LARGE MOTIF:
Ch 2 counts as dc. Ch 3 may also be used.
Ch 4, ss into first ch to make round
Round 1: Ch 2, dc 19 into the round, ss into second ch of turning ch.
Round 2: Ch 5, (skip 1 dc, dc in next st, ch 3) repeat 8 more times. Ss into second ch of turning
ch.
Round 3: Ss into ch sp, ch 2, 3dc into same ch sp. (Ch 2, 4dc into next ch sp) repeat 8 more
times. Ch 2, ss into 2nd ch of turning ch..
Round 4: Ch 1, (dc4tog, ch 2, dc into ch sp, ch 2) repeat 9 more times, ss into dc4tog.
Round 5: (Ch 3, sc in ch sp, ch 3, sc in next st, ch 3, sc in next ch sp, ch 3, sc in dc4tog) Repeat 9
times. There should be 40 ch 3 spaces.
Round 6: Ss into ch sp, (ch 3, sc into next ch sp) repeat 39 more times. Ss into ss. There should
be 40 ch 3 spaces.
*Round 7A: Use this for first completed motif only.
Sc into ch sp. *(4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into next ch sp, sc into next ch
sp.* Repeat 18 more times. (4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into next ch sp, ss
into sc. There should be 20 points.
For each subsequent motif, repeat rounds 1-6.
©Namaste and Crochet The Luna Skirt Page 3 of 17
Round 7B: Use this for first row of motifs
except last motif in round:
Ss into ch sp. *(4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into next ch
sp, sc into next ch sp.* Repeat from * to *16
more times. *(4dc, sc into previous motif ch
2 sp, 4dc) into next ch sp, Sc into next ch
sp*. Repeat from * to * 2 more times. Ss into
ss. Mark 3rd connecting point between first
and second motifs and all subsequent motifs.
Continue to join motifs together starting from
the 8th point to the left of marker continuing
to the 9th and 10th point.
Round 7C: Use this for last motif in first row (This will connect motifs into round):
Ss into ch sp. *(4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into next ch sp, sc into next ch sp.* Repeat from * to *6 more
times. *(4dc, sc into ch 2 sp of previous motif, 4dc) into next ch, Sc into the next ch sp* repeat
from * to * 2 more times. Connection point are 8th, 9th, and 10th points from the left of marker.
*(4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into next ch, sc into next ch.* Repeat from * to *6 more times. *(4dc, sc into ch
2 sp of first motif in row, 4dc) into next ch, Sc into the next ch sp * Repeat from * to * 2 more
times. Connecting points are 8th, 9th and 10th to the right of marker. Ss into ss.
Round 7D: Use this for first motif in second
and subsequent rows:
Ss into ch space. *(4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into next ch
sp, sc into next ch sp.* Repeat from * to *16
more times. *(4dc, sc into ch 2 sp of above
motif, 4dc), sc into the next ch sp* repeat from
* to * 2 more times. Connecting points are the
5th, 4th, and 3rd points to the right of marker.
Ss into ss.
Mark the 3rd connecting point between two
joined motifs (pictured without first row
connected for clarity but first and last motif in
first row should already be joined)
©Namaste and Crochet The Luna Skirt Page 4 of 17
Round 7E: Use this for motifs in second and
subsequent rows except first and last motifs:
Ss into ch sp. *(4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into next ch sp,
sc into next ch sp.* Repeat from * to *11 more
times. *(4dc, sc into motif of previous row ch 2
sp, 4dc) into next ch sp, sc in next ch sp*
repeat from * to * 2 more times. Connecting
points are 5th, 4th and 3rd points to the left of
marker. *(4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into next ch sp, sc
into next ch sp.* Repeat from * to *1 more
time. *(4dc, sc into previous motif in same row
ch 2 sp, 4dc) into next ch sp, sc in next ch sp*
repeat from * to * 2 more times. Ss into ss.
Connecting points are 3rd, 4th and 5th to the
left of marker in previous row. Mark 3rd connecting point between motifs in current and previous
row.
Round 7F: Use this for last motif of second row
(This will connect motifs into a round):
Ss into ch sp. *(4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into next ch sp, sc
into next ch sp.* Repeat from * to * 6 more times.
*(4dc, sc into first motif in previous row ch 2 sp,
4dc) into next ch sp, sc into next ch sp * repeat
from * to * 2 more times. Connection points are
5th, 4th and 3rd points to the left of marker. *(4dc,
ch 2, 4dc) into next ch sp, sc into next ch sp.*
Repeat from * to *1 more time. *(4dc, sc into motif
in row above ch 2 sp, 4dc) into next ch, sc into next
ch sp * repeat from * to * 2 more times. Connection
points are 3rd, 4th and 5th to the left of marker in
above row. *(4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into next ch sp, sc into
next ch.* Repeat from * to *1 more time. *(4dc, sc
into first motif in same row ch 2 sp, 4dc) into next
ch sp, sc into next ch sp * repeat from * to * 2 more
times. ss into ss. Connection points are 5th, 6th and 7th to the right of marker in previous row. Mark 3rd
connection point from previous row.
For each row after the second row, follow rounds 7D and 7E instructions for first and second
motifs in subsequent rows. Do not join last motif in each row to the first motif if you want to
create a slit OR repeat instructions for round 7F to join the rows of motifs into rounds for no slit.
Once you have completed motifs for desired width and length, remove the stitch markers and
begin joining large motifs with small motifs. Weave in ends before beginning small motif joins.
©Namaste and Crochet The Luna Skirt Page 5 of 17
SMALL MOTIF
This motif will be used to connect open points between 4 connected
large motifs.
Ch 4, ss into first ch to create round.
Round 1: Begin working into the round. Ch 3, 2 tc, (ch 3, 3tc) repeat
2 more times, ch 3, ss into 3rd ch. Reference photo.
Round 2: Ss between ch 3 and tc, *ch 3, sc between tc and tc. Ch 2,
(2 dc, ch 2, 2dc) into ch. Ch 2, sc between tc and tc* Repeat 3
more times.
Round 3: Connecting round. Ss into ch 3, ch 2, sc into ch 2 sp of left
point on the first motif, ch 2, sc into ch 2 sp. Ch 1, (3dc, sc
between two joined points of large motifs, 3dc) into ch 2 sp,
ch 1, sc into next ch sp. Reference first photo.
Ch 2, sc into first point of second motif, ch 2, sc into ch 3 sp,
ch 2, sc into second point of second motif, ch 2, sc into next ch sp.
Ch 1, (3dc, sc between two joined points of large motifs, 3dc) into ch
2 sp, ch 1, sc into next ch sp. Reference second photo.
Ch 2, sc into first point of third motif, ch 2, sc into ch 3 sp,
ch 2, sc into second point of third motif, ch 2, sc into next ch sp. Ch
1, (3dc, sc between two joined points of large motifs, 3dc) into ch 2
sp, ch 1, sc into next ch sp.
Ch 2, sc into first point of fourth motif, ch 2, sc into ch 3 sp,
ch 2, sc into second point of fourth motif, ch 2, sc into next ch sp. Ch
1, (3dc, sc between two joined points of large motifs, 3dc) into ch 2
sp, ch 1, sc into next ch sp.
Ch 2, sc into the right point of first motif, ch 2, ss into ch 3
sp. Cut yarn and weave in end. Reference photo for completed small
motif.
©Namaste and Crochet The Luna Skirt Page 6 of 17
HALF SMALL MOTIF:
This motif will be used to connect open points between 2 connected
large motifs along the waistline and slit. They may also be added to
the bottom row depending on preference.
Ch 4, ss into first ch to create round.
Round 1: Begin working into the round. Ch 5, 3 tc, ch 2, 3 tc, ch 2,
tc.
Round 2: Turn work. Ch 2, (dc, ch 2, 2dc) into ch sp. Ch 2, sc
between tc and tc, ch 3, sc between tc and tc. Ch 2, (2dc, ch 2, 2dc)
into ch sp. Ch 2, sc between tc and tc, ch 3, sc between next tc and tc.
Ch 2, (2dc, ch 2, 1dc) into next ch sp. Reference photo
Round 3: Connecting round. Turn work, ss into ch sp. Ch 2, sc into
third point to the right of joined points on large motifs. 3dc into ch
sp, ch 1, sc into next ch. Ch 2, sc into second point to the right of
joined points on large motifs, ch 2, sc into next ch sp. Ch 2, sc into
first point to the right of joined points on large motifs, ch 2, sc into
next ch sp. Ch 1, (3dc, sc between two joined points of large motifs,
3dc) into ch 2 sp, ch 1, sc into next ch sp.
Ch 2, sc into the first point to the left of joined points on large motifs,
ch 2, sc into next ch sp. Ch 2, sc into the second point to the left of
joined points on large motifs, ch 2, sc into next ch sp, ch 1, (3dc, sc
into third point to the left of joined points on large motifs, dc) into
next ch sp. cut yarn and weave in ends. Reference photo for
completed half small motif.
LACE BORDER:
Join yarn to the right of the the first unconnected point on the bottom
left motif. Begin Working from bottom to top along the slit.
Reference photo
Row 1: Ch 2 (4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into next point, *sc into side of dc. Ch 2
(4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into the side of tc, sc into ch. (4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into
side on tc, sc into side of dc. (4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into next point. Repeat (
) two more times.* Repeat from * to * until you reach the last sc in
the side of dc on half small motif before the top of the slit. (4dc, ch 2,
4dc) into the sc connecting the half small motif and large motif, sc
between joined points on large motifs. (4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into the sc connecting the half small motif
©Namaste and Crochet The Luna Skirt Page 7 of 17
and large motif on opposite side of the slit, sc into next
ch sp. *(4dc, ch 2, 4dc into side of tc, sc into ch sp)
Repeat once more. (4dc, ch 2, 4dc into next point on
large motif) Repeat twice more. Continue this pattern
along the edge of the slit and along the bottom of the
skirt.
If no half small motifs were used along the bottom of
the skirt, continue to make (4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into each
exposed point on the bottom edge. You may also make
multiple rows of (4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into the points to
make the skirt longer or give more ruffle.
©Namaste and Crochet The Luna Skirt Page 8 of 17
WAIST BORDER:
Join yarn to the first unconnected point to the right of half small
motif on any large motif on the top row. Begin working toward
small half motif
Round 1: Ch 2 (4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into next point, *sc into side of dc.
Ch 2 (4dc, ch 2, 4dc) into the side of tc, sc into ch. (4dc, ch
2, 4dc) into side on tc, sc into side of dc. (4dc, ch 2, 4dc)
into next point. Repeat ( ) two more times.* Repeat from *
to * until the end of the round. Ss into 2nd ch.
Round 2: Ss along 4dc into ch 2 sp. (ch 4, sc into next point)
Repeat till end of row. Ss into first point.
Round 3: Ch 2, dc in sc. (Dc 4 into ch sp, dc in sc.) Repeat till end
of row. Ss into dc.
Round 4: Ch 3, (skip 1 st, dc in next, ch 1) Repeat till end of round.
Ss into 2nd ch.
Round 5: Ch 2 (counts as dc,) dc in each st and ch sp until end of round. Ss into 2nd ch.
Cut yarn and weave in end.
DRAW STRING:
Make a chain which is 1 1/2 times the length of the circumference of the waist band.
Row 1: Hdc in each ch.
Cut yarn and weave in end.
Beginning in the back center of the skirt, weave the drawstring between each post of the waist
band all the way around.
©Namaste and Crochet The Luna Skirt Page 9 of 17
Luna Top
Breast Cup Section:
This section starts at the center of the bust line working out. The cup sizes are only suggestions
for amount of coverage but row count can be increased or decreased depending on the desired
coverage.
Turn after each row. Beginning ch does not count as the first stitch in this section - unless
otherwise stated.
Ch 11
Row 1: Hdc in second ch from hook, hdc in 7 chs, 2hdc in next, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in final ch,
turn and continue down opposite side of ch. 2hdc in next, hdc in next 8 chs.
Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in 8 sts, 2hdc in next. Hdc in next 2 sts, sk 1 st, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch space.
Hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 9 sts.
Row 3: Ch 1, hdc in 9 sts, 2hdc in next. Hdc in next 4 sts, sk 1 st, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch space.
Hdc in next 4 sts, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 9 sts.
Row 4: Ch 1, hdc in 9 sts, 2hdc in next. Hdc in next 6 sts, sk 1 st, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch space.
Hdc in next 6 sts, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 10 sts.
Row 5: Ch 1, hdc in 10 sts, 2hdc in next. Hdc in next 8 sts, sk 1 st, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch space.
Hdc in next 8 sts, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 10 sts.
Row 6: Ch 1, hdc in 10 sts, 2hdc in next. Hdc in next 10 sts, sk 1 st, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch
space. Hdc in next 10 sts, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 11 sts.
Row 7: Ch 1, hdc in 11 sts, 2hdc in next. Hdc in next 12 sts, sk 1 st, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch
space. Hdc in next 12 sts, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 11 sts
Row 8: Ch 1, hdc in 11 sts, 2hdc in next. Hdc in next 14 sts, sk 1 st, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch
space. Hdc in next 14 sts, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 12 sts
Row 9: Ch 1, hdc in 12 sts, 2hdc in next. Hdc in next 16 sts, sk 1 st, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch
space. Hdc in next 16 sts, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 12 sts.
Row 10: Ch 1, hdc in 12 sts, 2hdc in next. Hdc in next 18 sts, sk 1 st, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch
space. Hdc in next 18 sts, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 13 sts.
©Namaste and Crochet The Luna Skirt Page 10 of 17
Stop here for size small, proceed to under arm section.
Row 11: Ch 1, hdc in 13 sts, 2hdc in next. Hdc in next 20 sts, sk 1 st, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch
space. Hdc in next 20 sts, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 13 sts.
Row 12: Ch 1, hdc in 13 sts, 2hdc in next. Hdc in next 22 sts, sk 1 st, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch
space. Hdc in next 22 sts, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 14 sts.
Row 13: Ch 1, hdc in 14 sts, 2hdc in next. Hdc in next 24 sts, ,sk 1 st, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch
space. Hdc in next 24 sts, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 14 sts
Row 14: Ch 1, hdc in 14 sts, 2hdc in next. Hdc in next 26 sts, sk 1 st, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch
space. Hdc in next 26 sts, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 15 sts.
Stop here for size Medium, proceed to under arm section.
Row 15: Ch 1, hdc in 15 sts, 2hdc in next. Hdc in next 28 sts, sk 1 st, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch
space. Hdc in next 28 sts, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 15 sts.
Row 16: Ch 1, hdc in 15 sts, 2hdc in next. Hdc in next 30 sts, sk 1 st, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch
space. Hdc in next 30 sts, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 16 sts.
Row 17: Ch 1, hdc in 16 sts, 2hdc in next. Hdc in next 32 sts, sk 1 st, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch
space. Hdc in next 32 sts, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 16 sts.
Row 18: Ch 1, hdc in 16 sts, 2hdc in next. Hdc in next 34 sts, sk 1 st, (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in ch
space. Hdc in next 34 sts, 2hdc in next, hdc in next 17 sts.
Stop here or size Large, proceed to under arm section.
For additional sizes:
Continue with same pattern, increasing along both sides of the cup and at the top corner.
Increase the rows around your breast cup as fits your sizing needs. Keep in mind that there will
be a half inch of width added to the breast cup. There will also be a bottom section where more
length will be added with lace.
Under Arm Section:
Turn after each row. Beginning ch does not count as first stitch in this section.
Sizes are explained as follows throughout the rest of the pattern; (Small, Medium, Large)
Row 1: Ch 1, hdc in next (15, 17, 19) sts.
©Namaste and Crochet The Luna Skirt Page 11 of 17
Repeat this row. There should be 8 rows total for size small, 10 rows total for size
medium and 12 rows total for size large. The under arm section is not meant to reach all the way
around the back but provides extra support and coverage for corset. Adjust length as desired for
your personal coverage needs. Reference photo 1
Cut yarn and use tapestry needle to weave in ends.
Make two identical pieces of the breast cup and under arm section. Cut a 24-inch piece of
yarn then using tapestry needle, join two pieces together at the center of each piece (opposite of
the under arm section.) Join the two pieces by sewing from the bottom up through the center of
the section. (15, 17, 19) sts. Weave in ends when done. Reference photo 2
Photo 1 Photo 2
Perimeter row:
This row will be worked around the entire piece. Join yarn at the far right corner of work and
begin to work along the bottom edge.
Ch 3 (counts as dc & ch 1) in first corner sp. Evenly space (36, 51, 71) dc with (35, 50,
70) ch 1 sps along the bottom edge ending with ch1, dc in second corner sps- (38, 53, 73) dc,
(37, 52, 72) ch.
For customized cup and under arm sections, the total dc & ch sps should be in multiples of 5.
Reference photo 3.
Turn your top to work up the side of the under arm section. Ch 3 (counts as a dc & ch 1),
dc into the first hdc stitch on the under arm to create corner. (Ch 1, skip next st, dc in next) repeat
along edge of under arm. – (9, 10, 11) dc with (8, 9, 10) ch 1 sps between the first corner.
Reference photo 4
Ch 100 to create back tie (this is the corset cord and can be adjusted in length as needed).
Skip first ch, sc 98 into each ch leaving the last ch open. Ch 1, dc into same hdc to create corner.
Reference photo 5
©Namaste and Crochet The Luna Skirt Page 12 of 17
Continue along top of under arm section. (Ch 1, skip one row, dc into the end sp of next
row) repeat (5, 6, 7) more times. Ch 1, skip over corner of under arm section and breast cup
section. Dc into second st on breast cup section. Reference photo 6
(Ch 1, skip next st, dc in next) repeat (7, 11, 15) more times. Ch 1, dc into ch 2 space at
top of breast cup. Ch 75 or desired length for neck tie. Skip first ch, sc into each ch leaving last
ch open- (73 sc), ch 1, dc into ch 2 space. Reference photo 7
(Ch 1, skip next st, dc in next) repeat (8, 12, 16) more times. Ch 1, skip 2 hdc, skip 2 hdc
on opposite cup, dc into next st. Reference photo 8
(Ch 1, skip next st, dc in next) repeat (7, 11, 15) more times. Ch 1, dc into ch 2 space at
top of breast cup. Ch 75 or desired length for neck tie. Skip first ch, sc into each ch leaving last
ch open- (73 sc), ch 1, dc into ch 2 space.
(Ch 1, skip next st, dc in next) repeat (8, 12, 16) more times. Ch 1, dc into the second row
of hdc along the top of the under arm. (Ch 1, skip one row, dc into the end sp of next row) repeat
(5, 6, 7) more times.
Ch 100 to create back tie (this is the corset cord and can be adjusted in length as needed).
Skip first ch, sc into each ch leaving the last ch open- (98 sc), ch 1, dc into same hdc to create
corner. (Ch 1, skip next st, dc in next) repeat (6, 7, 9) more times. Ch 3, ss into second ch to
create corner and complete round.
Photos in order from top left to bottom right: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8
©Namaste and Crochet The Luna Skirt Page 13 of 17
Bottom edge:
Turn after each row. Beginning ch counts as the first stitch in this section - unless noted
otherwise
Row 1: Turn work, make 2 ss back into the corner space, turn work so that you are working back
across the bottom of the top. Ch 2, dc into next ss, dc into each st and ch space across to
create a full row of dcs. – (75, 105, 145) dc
Row 2: Ch 2, dc into each dc across. – (75, 105, 145) dc
Repeat Row 2 until desired length for coverage.
Next Row: Ch 3 (counts as dc & ch1) skip next st, dc in next. (Ch 1, skip next st, dc in next)
repeat untill end of row. Ch 1, dc into ch 2 (turning ch). Stop here if joining top and skirt
as a dress.
Next Row: For size small: Ch 1, (this does not count as the first st). Sc in same st as ch 1. Sc in
next ch space and next dc, sc in next ch sp, *sk next dc, (6dc) into next ch space, sk next
dc , sc into next ch space, (sc in next dc and ch space) repeat one more time.* Repeat
from * to * 8 more times. Last repeat end with sc in last st.
For size medium and large: Ch 1, this does not count as the first st, sc in same st as Ch1, (sc in
next ch space and next dc) repeat one more time. Sc in next ch space, *sk next dc, (6dc)
into next ch space, sk next dc , sc into next ch space, (sc in next dc and ch sp) repeat one
more time.* Repeat from * to * (11, 16) more times. Sc in any remaining dc or ch spaces
to end of row. Reference photo 9
Final Row: For size Small: Ch 1, (this does not count as the first st), sc into same st as Ch1.
(sc, ch 3, sc) into next st. *sk 2 sc, (2dc) in first dc, dc into next, (2dc) into next, ch 2, (2
dc) into next, dc into next, (2dc) into last dc, sk 2sc,(sc, ch 3, sc) into next sc.* Repeat *
to * 8 more times. Sc in remaining sts.
For size medium and large: Ch 1, (this does not count as the first st), sc into same st as Ch1, sc
into next st, (sc, ch 3, sc) into next st, sk 2 sc , (sc, ch3, sc) in next sc, *sk 2 sc, (2dc) in
first dc, dc into next, (2dc) into next, ch 2, (2 dc) into next, dc into next, 2 dc into last dc,
sk 2 sc, (sc, ch 3, sc) into next sc.* Repeat * to * (11, 16) more times. Sc in
remaining sts. Reference photo 10
©Namaste and Crochet The Luna Skirt Page 14 of 17
Photo 9 Photo 10
Shoulder Drape (optional):
Turning ch does not count as st unless otherwise stated.
For this section stitches (st) includes ch sp as well.
Ch (116, 135, 154) or to desired length in multiples of 19 plus 2 for turning ch.
rd
Row 1: (Turning ch 2 counts as a st), hdc in 3 ch, hdc across into each ch. (115, 134,
153) hdc
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc & ch1), (skip 1 st, dc in next, Ch 1) repeat till end of row. Dc in last
st.
Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), (hdc in next st) x 9, *Ch1, sk next st,
(hdc in next st) x18* Repeat from * to *(4, 5, 6) more times . Ch1, sk next st, (hdc in next
st) x9
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in 7 sts. *Skip 2 sts (6dc) in ch sp, skip next 2 sts. Sc in next 14 sts.* Repeat
from * to * (4, 5, 6) more times. Skip 2 sts, (6dc) in ch sp, skip 2 sts, sc in remaining 7
sts.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in 5 sts, *sk 2 sts, (ch 1, dc in next dc) repeat 5 more times. Ch 1, skip 2 sts, sc
in next 10 sts.* Repeat from * to * (4, 5, 6) more times. (Ch 1, dc in next dc) Repeat 5
more times. Ch 1, skip 2 sts, sc in next 5 sts.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in 3 sts, *sk 2 sts, (ch 2, dc2tog in ch sp) repeat 6 more times. Ch 2, skip 2 sts,
sc in next 6 sts* Repeat from * to * (4, 5, 6) more times. (Ch 2, dc2tog in ch sp) repeat 6
more times. Ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts.
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Row 7: Ch 1, sc in sc. *sk 2 sts, (Ch 4, dc in ch sp) Repeat 7 more times. Ch 4, skip 2 sts, sc in
next 2 sts.* Repeat from * to * (4, 5, 6) more times. *(Ch 4, dc in ch sp) Repeat 7 more
times. Ch 4, skip 2 sts, sc in last st.
Row 8: Ss into ch sp, ch 2 (counts as dc,) (3dc) in same ch sp. (Ch 2, dc 4 in next ch sp) repeat
untill end of row. Reference Photo 11
Row 9: Ch 1, (dc4tog, ch 4, sc in ch sp, ch 4) repeat untill end of row.
Row 10: (Ch 4, sc in next ch sp) repeat untill end of row. Ch 4, sc into last dc4tog to complete
row.
Row 11: Ch 5, sc into ch space, ch 5, sc in next ch space. Repeat untill end of row.
Row 12: Ch 3, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in the 3rd ch of the first ch sp. (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in the 3rd ch of the
next ch sp. Repeat untill end of row.
Row 13: Ss into ch sp. (Ch 2, 2dc, ch 2, 3dc) in ch 2 sp. (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in next ch sp. Repeat
untill end of row.
Repeat row 13 until desired length for ruffle. Reference photo 12.
Photo 11 Photo 12
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Cut 24-inch strand of yarn. Align the outer side of the top of the breast cup section with row 1 of
the shoulder drape. Use tapestry needle to sew from the top down. Stop connecting once you
reach the corner of breast cup and under arm section. There will most likely be an inch or so of
lace left unsewn. Reference photo 13
To wear: Tie the neck strings around your neck as halter straps. Tie the back corset strings in a
corset fashion by looping the tie through the Ch 1 spaces along the side of the under arm section.
Let the drape fall over the shoulders and along your back.
To join the top and skirt as a dress, determine the front center stitch of the skirt. This can be
above the center stitch to the right or left of the slit or directly above the slit depending on
desired design. Align the center stitch on bottom row of the top with the center stitch of the skirt.
Using tapestry needle, sew the top and skirt together from the center stitch out to the right and
left sides.
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