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 Another Random Document on
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Bonaker & Jones. Manufacturers of Design Paper For Carpet &
Upholstery. Designers; 58 N 4th St. Philadelphia. Represented by Vincent
T. Rafferty. Having the experience and facilities for making Design Papers
in all sizes, we are enabled to supply manufacturers with the best at the
lowest rates. Special sizes made to order. Will be pleased to give you
prices for any quantity or size you may need.
Jacquard Machines (Single and Double Action) Of Improved Construction.
We give great attention to the workmanship, use only the best materials,
and produce The Best Machine in the Market. Our prices compare
favorably with those more cheaply built. We furnish machines
constructed on the English plan—leaving out bottom board and glass
rods—when desired. Geo. W. Stafford Mfg. Co., Nos. 3 and 5 Point Street,
Providence, R. I., Machine Builders. Single and Double Action Jacquards,
Single and Double Action Dobbies, The only Double Action Open Shed
Positive Dobbie, Equalizing Spring Jacks, Cottrell’s Positive Let-off Motion,
etc., etc. Sketches and Designs furnished and Cards Cut. Mail Eyes,
Twine, Lingoes, Wires, Springs, etc., furnished. Leno Weaving—both
simple and compound—a specialty. (Patented September 6, 1887.) This
Comber-board can be seen at the Textile School, 1336 Spring Garden
Street, Philadelphia. Stafford’s Patent Comber Board. The divisions are
made with wires crossing each other, giving the least possible wearing
surface on the twine, thus reducing friction on the outside of the harness,
and consequent wear; preventing bagging and the jumping of lingoes;
Jacquards can be run at much higher speed where this board is adopted.
Five years’ use has sustained the above claims and demonstrated its
practicability.
The Textile Record, 425 Walnut Street, Philadelphia. The Foremost Textile
Journal of the United States. Covering every Department of Textile
Manufacture. Weaving and Jacquard Work Fully Discussed. Each Number
filled with Original and Practical Articles. The largest staff of Expert
Contributors. The Textile Record has positive practical value to every mill
owner and mill worker. Its contributions to the literature of the textile
industry surpass in value and interest everything yet attempted on this
side of the Atlantic. Richly Illustrated in Each Number. Sample Copies on
Application to The Textile Record, No. 425 Walnut Street, Philadelphia,
PA.
ROYLE’S
Highest Award at the American Institute, 1873, The Special Medal of
Silver. Highest Award at New Orleans, The Gold Medal with First Degree
of Merit. Improved Piano Machines —AND—Automatic, Positive Action,
Power Repeaters, For Cutting Jacquard Pattern Cards. Improved Silk
Machinery: Warpers, Beamers, Quillers, Dobbies, Covering Or “Gimp”
Machines, Twisters, &c. John Royle & Sons, Paterson, N. J.
New High-speed Power Loom For Ingrain Carpets. Built by the M. a.
Furbush & Son Machine Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S. A. One Hundred Picks
per Minute. Fifteen Shuttles Pick and Pick.
New High-speed Power Loom For Ingrain Carpets. Built by The M. a.
Furbush & Son Machine Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S. A. One Hundred Picks
Per Minute. Fifteen Shuttles Pick and Pick. This Loom combines the best
features of the Duckworth and Murkland Looms; while possessing the
shading capacity of the latter, it is easier in its operation, and of a
considerably higher speed than either. The following points as to the
construction and operation of this Loom will prove to any manufacturer,
superintendent, fixer or weaver the superiority of the same over any
other style: Runs light.There is no heavy lay to operate, as in other
looms. The lay (raceway and boxes) are stationary, and the filling is
beaten up by means of a comb, which is the only part that swings; being
light, it can easily accomplish the movements necessary for the one
hundred picks per minute, which could never be attained by operating
the lay as in any other loom. No tearing of cloth By the Shuttle Catching
in the Warp and Being Drawn Up by the Reed, as the comb for beating
up the filling passes in front of the shuttle. Easy on filling. The peculiar
shape of the filling fork allows the shuttle to pass under it, at the same
time merely opening wide enough to admit the filling. The motion is easy
and delicate, and will not break the poorest filling—a great point of
superiority over all other high-speed looms, in which there is always
more or less tendency to chop the filling. Shuttle boxes. The box
mechanism is the same as in the Murkland Loom, there being a revolver
of seven boxes and three upright boxes, thus giving ten boxes on each
side, or twenty in all. The Jacquard machine is constructed principally as
in the Duckworth Loom, although the cylinder gauge, boards and
journals are like those of the Murkland. The cylinder is worked with the
rock shaft of the Duckworth Loom, instead of a cam shaft. The change
gears For Take-up, instead of being worm gears, are ratchet; but the
number of teeth to number of picks is the same as in the Murkland.
Power back-off. The Loom has a power back-off, as in the Duckworth, a
pressure of the foot being sufficient to reverse the Loom. Separate cams
are provided for each arrangement of boxes, instead of segment cams as
in the Murkland Loom. The Loom is pick and pick. Journals are operated
from below by cams and treadles. The new Loom covers all the features
demanded in a perfect Ingrain Carpet Loom, including ability to make all
the new weaves.
Loom Picker Co. Biddeford, Maine, Manufacturers of Raw Hide and
Leather Loom Pickers and Strapping,Including many varieties of Raw
Hide Pickers never before made in this country, such as Scoops, Centre
Scoops, Pressed Centres, Feathered Feet Bows, XL Bows, All of which are
a superior substitute for the ordinary Bow Picker. Sole Manufacturers of
the Parker Patent Drop Box Picker, Which is so constructed that the blow
is against the edge of the hide forming the body of the Picker. These
Pickers have no plug in the Shuttle Strike to be driven out or worked
loose, and they are guaranteed not to break at the head. Also,
Manufacturers of Loom Harnesses of Superior Quality. All Harnesses are
made of the very best quality of twine and stock, and are carefully
finished. They are guaranteed to possess all the requirements of a
superior article. An Illustrated Catalogue giving a detailed description of
our goods will be mailed on application.
Chas. Ashoff,manufacturer of Reeds and Heddles, And Dealer in
Manufacturers’ Supplies, Nos. 191 and 193 Berks Street, Philadelphia, PA.
Patent Jacquard Machines Applied to any Style or Make of Power Looms,
for any Kind of Figured Goods. Single Lifts, Double Lifts, Raise and Drop
Jacquards, Witch Motions (Dobby Machines), Single and Double-lift
Heddle Machines. Jacquard Card-stamping Machines. Piano Steam-Power
Card-Stamping Machine,For Jacquard Cards. The speed is completely at
the will of the operator, and will punch as high as 170 strokes per minute.
The capacity is about double that of a foot-power machine. Two cards
can be stamped at once. Dobby Card-Punching Machine. This machine is
built for punching Jacquard or Dobby Cards of the strongest pasteboard,
punching the whole card at one revolution or stroke. After the keys are
set, any number of duplicates can be punched. It is well constructed,
simple, and a most effective machine. Piano Foot-Treading Card-
Stamping Machine. I have lately reconstructed this machine, making it
more compact by a novel and durable escapement of the rack. Jacquard
Card-Lacing Machine. The only successful machine ever introduced for
this purpose. Far superior to hand lacing for regularity and durability.
Light-running, simple and durable. Can be operated by a small girl or
boy. Will lace 800 to 2000 cards per hour. Thoroughly and satisfactorily
tested. Weighs about 500 pounds. Machines now in operation and ready
for the inspection of manufacturers. Machines placed on trial with
responsible parties. W. P. Uhlinger, Nos. 14 to 36 Canal Street,
Philadelphia, Pa. (Take red car on Third Street to Frankford Avenue and
Canal Street.)
Knowles’ New Ingrain Power Carpet Loom. Designed to meet a want long
felt in the manufacture of Ingrain Carpets, for a loom that should be
simple in its construction, easy of operation, positive in its motions, and
could be run at a high rate of speed. The Knowles Loom Works take
pleasure in calling the attention of carpet manufacturers to their new
Ingrain Carpet Loom, as one in which all the above features are
combined in such a manner as to make a loom that meets the
requirements mentioned above, and one that will be highly appreciated
by manufacturers of those goods for which the loom is designed. The
following are among the important features: The journals on the loom
are controlled by a cam motion, or by the same efficient chain motion
that is used on our Worsted Loom instead of the cam motion, handling
the warp with the greatest ease and calling either journal at will, which
cannot be done on other carpet looms, thus giving a wider range of
pattern and design than on other looms; and should it be necessary to
change the shading, it can be done by changing the chain, instead of
cutting out the warp and re-drawing it. The box mechanism is positive,
and controlled by a chain on the same shaft as the journals, and may be
used with the chain alone, or with the chain in combination with the
cards. The motion can be run forward or reversed at will, and any box
called as desired, thus giving a wide range to the shading facilities of the
loom, and any combination of colors can be produced on this loom that
can be done on any 4 × 4 box loom in the world. The Jacquard is of our
own manufacture, and of the most improved pattern. Great care is used
in its construction, thus making it a very efficient part of the loom, and is
driven from the same shaft as the journals and box motion, thus working
in harmony with them. The take-up motion is positive, and is very
substantial and accurate, consisting of fluted rolls, and operated by the
usual train of gearing, while the goods are wound up on a roll below. The
let-off is controlled by the tension of the warp over a rocking whip roll,
operated by a cam on the bottom shaft, held by a clamp friction, geared
to the head of the beam. Two filling motions are used, one at each end
of the lay, each working independently of the other, inside the selvedge,
so that the breakage of the weft is instantly detected, and these motions
are so combined with friction pulley and brake, that the loom is stopped
instantly “on the pick,” and consequently, when filling is replaced, the
loom is ready to start without loss of time in finding the pick, or setting
of Jacquard or box motion. The shuttle-smash protector, which knocks off
the loom when the shuttle does not box properly, thus preventing what
are known as “shuttle smashes;” a shuttle check, for easing the force of
the shuttle as it enters the box; a foot lever, for throwing the lay back
when the loom is stopped, making it very easy for the weaver, and the
speed at which the loom can be run, together with the features
mentioned above, combine to make this loom the best in the market for
the purpose for which it is designed. Correspondence solicited and
circulars sent on application. Knowles Loom Works, No. 57 Jackson
Street, Worcester, Mass.
Schaum & Uhlinger, 1030-1038 New Market St., Philadelphia, Pa.
Manufacturers of Ribbon, Tape and Webbing Looms, Latest
Improvements. New Patterns. Lathes Or Battons, For Ribbons, Fringes,
Tapes, Suspender and Goring Web, &c. We construct our Lathes on
correct mechanical principles, use only the best materials, and produce
The Best Lathe In the Market. Write to us for estimates: it will pay you.
Jacquard Machines, With any desired number of hooks. Applied to any
manufacture of loom. Harness Tied up for all Figured Weaving. A Full
Line of Weavers’ Supplies: Mails, Lingoes, Heddles, Harness Twine,
Compart-Boards, Glass Rings, Shuttle Eyes, &c. If you contemplate
manufacturing Figured Goods, write to us for information, or send us
samples of the goods you desire to make, and we will furnish you
estimates for a complete equipment, including Jacquard Machines, with
harness tied-up, designs made, cards cut, &c. Fifteen years’ practical
experience in this line of business enables us to give our customers the
Best Results with the Least Expense. Schaum & Uhlinger, 1030-1038 New
Market St., Philadelphia, Pa.
TEXTILE SCHOOL OF THE Pennsylvania Museum and School of Industrial
Art,
Classrooms: {No. 1336 Spring Garden Street, {S. E. Cor. Broad &
Spring Garden Sts.
THE LEADING TEXTILE SCHOOL IN AMERICA.
Founded in co-operation with the Trustees of the Penna. Museum
and School of Industrial Art,
WM. PLATT PEPPER, President,
by the following members of the Philadelphia Textile Association:
Thomas Dolan & Co.,
John & James Dobson,
William Wood & Co.,
William Arrott,
John Yewdall,
Fiss, Banes, Erben & Co.,
Conyers Button & Co.,
George & James Bromley,
Seville Schofield,
Alexander Crow & Son,
James Smith & Co.,
M. A. Furbush & Son,
John Bromley & Sons,
Thomas L. Leedom,
James Doak, Jr. & Co.,
Charles Spencer & Co.,
H. Becker & Co.,
Andreas Hartel,
S. B. M. Fleisher,
Grundy Bros. & Campion,
H. W. Butterworth & Sons,
Stead & Miller.
Extract from COURSE OF STUDY for Day Class, requiring three
years’ attendance at School.
FIRST YEAR’S COURSE.
The hand-loom, analyzed and explained.
Elementary principles of “dressing” warps; beaming the same; fixing
of harness; drawing-in; reed and reed calculations, etc., for single
cloth.
A general study of the nature of materials used in weaving textile
fabrics; explanation of the necessary materials and instruments used
by designers.
Weaves.—Ground or Foundation Weaves.
I. Plain, or cotton weave, and fancy figuring through color
arrangements in warp and filling, for light-weight fabrics.
II. Twill weaves—a, one-sided twills; b, even-sided twills; and fancy
figuring with same through color arrangements in warp and filling.
III. Satin weaves—a, single satins; b, double satins; c, figuring in
single satins.
Drafting Weaves.
Lectures, with practical examples and rules observed.
Derivative Weaves.
Basket, rib, and granite weaves; steep, curved, broken, skip,
corkscrew, and fancy twills; pointed twills and honeycomb weaves;
pique weaves, and combinations of miscellaneous weaves.
Standard sizes of cotton wool and worsted yarns, with calculations.
Picking out samples of textile fabrics constructed on single weaves,
with methods and rules employed in duplication.
Original weaves for single cloth; complete orders for manufacturing.
Instrumental drawing in elementary exercises, with instruments;
construction of plane figures; line shading, etc.
Freehand drawing; enlargement and reduction of designs; analysis
of plants for the purpose of design for textile fabrics.
Work in color; lectures on color harmony.
SECOND YEAR’S COURSE.
The power-looms analyzed and explained, and practical weaving and
fixing; a, the Thos. Wood roller loom, for ginghams, shirtings,
cottonades, dress goods, etc.; b, the Crompton loom, and c, the
Knowles loom, for worsted and woolen fabrics of every description;
single and double beam work.
Double Cloths—Study of the best methods of combining different
weaves, as: Designs backed with weft; designs backed with warp;
designs backed with warp and weft; designs for double cloth, double
faced.
Calculation: ascertaining the cost, production, etc., of the different
fabrics.
Analyses of single cloth (fancy), and double cloth fabrics, and
reproduction with various changes, as requested.
The Jacquard Machine Analyzed and Explained; principles of
construction and method of operation of the single lift machine; the
various modifications, such as double lift single cylinder, double lift
double cylinder; “laying out” of comber-boards, and figuring for
various changes in texture; tying-up of harness for single cloth.
The Bridesburg Clipper Loom analyzed and explained, and practical
work on it, with special reference to its use in connection with the
double lift double cylinder Jacquard machine for damask table-
covers, etc.
Card-stamping machines (French index) analyzed and explained, and
actual work for single cloth on the machine; explanation of, and
practical work in card-lacing.
Theoretical work; designing paper with reference to the different
textures of single cloth fabrics.
Sketching of designs for single cloth, and transferring sketch to the □
designing paper.
Shading of fabrics by the weave.
Analysis of Jacquard work for actual reproduction; also for
reproduction with various (given) changes.
Study of special fabrics, such as dress trimmings, fringes, etc.
Study of processes for textile fabrics before and after weaving.
Instrumental drawing in lettering; drawing plans for machinery,
rooms, mill buildings, etc.
Illustrating processes of weaving.
Illustrating sectional cuts of textile fabrics, etc.
Freehand drawing; sketching for the different textile fabrics on
Jacquard work.
Work in color; lectures (advanced course); practice in the use of
color.
Chemistry.
Theory of Chemistry applicable to the textile art.
THIRD YEAR’S COURSE.
The two-ply ingrain carpet machine analyzed and explained.
The ingrain carpet hand-loom, and the ingrain carpet power-loom,
built by the M. A. Furbush & Son Machine Co., analyzed, explained,
and practical work.
Card-stamping machine (American index) analyzed, explained, and
practical work.
Tying-up of Jacquard harness (French index) machines for double
cloth; three and four-ply fabrics.
Advanced Work for the Harness Loom.
Study and practical work of cut pile fabrics—velvets, plushes, etc.;
terry pile fabrics, with wires and without wires; terry and velvet pile
combined.
Astrakans, cut, uncut, also cut and uncut combined.
Chenille, rugs, curtains, etc.
Gauze fabrics, plain, figured, and combined with other weaves.
Designing for upholstery fabrics, Jacquard gauze, Brussels carpet,
tapestry carpet, double face Brussels carpet, etc.
Card-stamping on the French index stamping machine for two,
three, and four-ply fabrics.
Instrumental and freehand drawing similar to second year’s course,
but for more difficult objects in textile fabrics and machinery.
Work in color; application of theory of harmony to dyeing.
Chemistry.
Theory and practice of chemistry, including actual work in the
laboratory and dyeing of fabrics.
T. C. SEARCH,
Chairman Committee on Instruction of the School, and Pres. Phila.
Textile Association.
The Circular of the Committee on Instruction will be mailed upon
application.
PRESS COMMENTS.
A Model School of Industrial Art.
We cannot, at this time, speak of its provisions by which drawing,
modeling, designing, etc., are taught; but we desire to call particular
attention to the facilities that are offered for a practical instruction in
weaving and textile design. Special courses are provided for teaching
designing for all varieties of textile fabrics, and its practical
application to loom work. As a complete course in its theoretical and
practical utility we do not hesitate to say it is without an equal in
America. A school of this kind is of the highest importance to the
manufacturing community that centres about Philadelphia.—Boston
Journal of Commerce.
An American Textile School.
The Textile Department of the Pennsylvania Museum and School of
Industrial Art clearly fulfils the requirements of a good Textile
School, and the promise is that it will speedily become one of the
best in the world, as it is now decidedly the most advanced in this
country. Pupils are taught designing for all varieties of textile fabrics,
and to make them thoroughly familiar with loom work, so that they
may be able not only to prepare their own designs, but also to
reproduce their own patterns in the cloth.
This institution, by fitting young Americans for exact scientific work
in the textile industries, will confer a huge benefit upon them and
upon the nation.—The Textile Record of America.
The Textile Department of the School of Industrial Art, 1336 Spring
Garden St.
Many scholars who have been at this school in former years are now
filling responsible and profitable positions.—The Bulletin, Phila.
Thomas Wood & Co., Fairmount Machine Works, Twenty-Second and
Wood Streets, Philadelphia, Pa. Power Looms. Patent Bobbin Winding
Machines. Patent Cop Winding Machines. Improved Presser Beaming
Machines. Plain Beaming Machines. Improved Reels for Wool, Worsted,
Cotton, Linen, etc. Improved Presser Spoolers. Plain Spoolers. Warp
Splitting Machines. Hank Twisting Machines. Warping Mills with Patent
Driving Heads and Improved Hecks. Single and Double Warp Sizing
Machines. Dyeing Machines for Warp and Piece Goods. Cradle and Cone
Indigo Mills. Fulling Mills. Calendering Machines. Self-acting Wool
Scouring Machines. Yarn Bundling Presses. Loom Beam Trucks. Shafting,
Hangers, Pulleys, etc. Adjustable Self-oiling Bearings. Patent Friction
Pulleys. Improved Cut-off Coupling. Patent Couplings. Patent Loose
Pulleys. Gearing. Elevators. Plans Made and Factories Completely
Equipped with Machinery.
Mill and Manufacturers’ Supplies. Sole Philadelphia Agent For Stoddard,
Lovering & Co.,
Boston, Massachusetts, and Bradford, England. Importers of English
Worsted Machinery, and Hattersley Looms, for every class of work. Also,
Pickers, Temples, Loom Springs, and White’s Picker Leather in the side or
by the strap, Torlotin’s Sizing; also, all other English Supplies. Also Agent
For Charles L. Ireson, Boston, Massachusetts. Pure Oak-tanned Leather
Belting and Findings, Wire-sewed Belting, and maker of Ireson’s Patent
Self-adjusting Leather Link Belting. Stedman & Smith, Lawrence,
Massachusetts. Machinists and makers of Machine Castings, and every
kind of Mill work. John W. Barlow, Lawrence, Massachusetts. Bow, Drop
 Box, English Scoop, or other Pickers of best quality. Banning, Bissell &
Co.,New York, N. Y. Porcelain Department:—Pot Eyes, Steps, Shuttle
Eyes, and Pottery Goods of every description. Single and Double Belting,
Belt Hooks, Springs, Temples, Picker and Lace Leather (Coupes),
Cleaning Cloths, Belt Dressing, (both American and Hepburn & Gale’s
English), Felt Cloth, Porcelain Goods, Fibre Washers, Banding, Gears, &c.,
&c., in stock at all times. All Supplies not in stock can be procured at
once. Worsted Mill Machinery and Supplies a Specialty. David B.
Douglass, 201 Church St., Philadelphia, Pa.

Transcriber’s notes:

In the text version, italics are represented by _underscores_, and bold and black letter
text by =equals= symbols. Superscripts are represented by ^{} and subscripts by _{}
Missing or incorrect punctuation has been repaired.
Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation have been left,
In the html version, dittos have been replaced by the repeated text so that text alignes
for easier reading.
In the html version, adverts (unless all plain text) have been reproduced as illustrations
to demonstrate layouts, decorations and fonts. The text from each illustration is given
below each illustration, unformatted.
The following mistakes have been noted:

p. 9. Towards the end of paragraph 6, there is an unclear word, I have used “on”.
p. 19. atttached changed to attached.
p. 33. F´´ = 100 , a repeat of “hooks” has been added.
p. 42. 3620 ends in warp. This adds up to 3600 rather than 3620 but has been left
as printed
p. 46. harness-cords 193 and 193. Checking with Fig. LIII it appears to be 193 and
194, but left as printed.
p. 52. B to C, B´ to C´. Trailing “)” removed.
p. 57. Illustration: Fig. LXXV.is mislabeled, there is another LXXV further on and this
one should be LXV.
p. 68. lattter changed to latter
p. 72. reg lar changed to regular.
p. 76. arangement changed to arrangement.
p. 77. Lifte changed to Lifts and puntuaction made consistent.
p. 127. know changed to known
 *** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE JACQUARD
MACHINE ANALYZED AND EXPLAINED ***

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