2025

Grading
Guide
THE GIST OF GRADING
AND HOW IT WORKS
WHAT IS GRADING? AN INTRO TO THE
CONCEPT OF GRADING
AND HOW IT STARTS

01
 Grading is the process of creating a full size range of a garment pattern
using a single pattern size.

Typically, a pattern is created and fit in a single base size otherwise

known as a “sample size” or “fit size.” Ideally the base size is in the
middle of the size range or very close.

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

If the size range is extensive, you may even have two sample sizes.
For example, one fit size for straight sizes and one sample size for plus
sizes. Or simply, two sizes spread evenly across the size range.

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34
THE PROCESS ESTABLISHING YOUR
SAMPLE SIZE AND
THE SAMPLE MAKING
PROCESS

02
A brand or designer will have the body measurements for their base size.
This may be based on a real person, a standard
measurement or data they have acquired
based on their customer.
IDES Female
Fit Size 6, M
Height 5’6” 168cm
Neck base 14 1/2” 36cm
Cf neck to waist 13 1/2” 34.5cm
IDES size standards Cb neck to waist
Across shoulder
15”
15 1/4”
38cm
39cm
are based on an Bust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Hps to apex
35 1/2”
10 1/4”
90cm
26cm
amalgamation of the Apex to apex
Underbust
7 1/4”
30”
18.5cm
76.5cm
Alvanon North Waist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28” 71cm
High hip 35” 89cm
American Woman Low hip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38” 96.5cm
Cb neck to wrist 31” 79cm
standard and my fit Bicep 11 1/4” 28.5cm
Elbow 9 1/2” 24cm
experience from the Wrist 6” 15.5cm
Thigh 22 1/2” 57cm
fashion industry. Knee 14 1/2” 37cm
Calf 14” 35.5cm
Ankle 9” 23cm
Inseam to floor 30 1/2” 77.5cm
Head circumference 21 3/4” 55.5cm

ASTM and Alvanon are two examples of industry size standards. These
standards vary by region, customer base and are often tweaked for
vanity sizing. That’s why most retail sizing is inconsistent. I personally
still think establishing a size standard based on industry-wide data and
your customer is more reliable than basing it on an individual person.
(That includes you! Don’t forget, our bodies are constantly changing)

Standards were created for a reason. Despite how difficult it is to

standardize body sizing, there is a lot of data behind them. They are a
great place to start, while you can and should still fit on a variety of
body types and real people when pattern testing.
The initial pattern is created based off the body measurements of the
sample size. The pattern would be sampled, fit and revised as many
times as needed or as allowed (based on cost and time). Once happy
with the fit and design, the pattern would then be graded.

In order to know how to grade a pattern, a size range and a grade rule
need to be established. The size range is simply the number of sizes
desired and how they will be called. i.e. 0,2,4,6 or S,M,L, etc.
Size Range Examples
34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 XS S M L XL XXL

EUROPEAN WOMAN NUMERIC EXTENDED STRAIGHT SIZES UNIVERSAL ALPHA STRAIGHT SIZES

14W 16W 18W 20W 22W 24W 26W 28W 30W 32W 34W 36W

NORTH AMERICAN WOMAN PLUS SIZES

The grade rule tells you how each measurement changes between sizes.
The customer-facing size chart is usually an extremely simplified version
of this, showing only the core measurements, like chest, waist and hip.
IDES Female Size Chart
US Size 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
AU/UK Size 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
Alpha XS S S M M L XL XL XXL
BUST 32.5” 82.6cm 33.5” 85.2cm 34.5” 87.8cm 35.5” 90.3cm 36.5” 92.9cm 37.5” 95.4cm 39“ 99.2cm 40.5” 103cm 42” 106.8cm

WAIST 25” 63.6cm 26“ 66.1cm 27“ 68.7cm 28” 71.2cm 29” 73.7cm 30” 76.3cm 31.5” 80.1cm 33” 84cm 34.5” 87.7cm

HIP 35” 89cm 36” 91.5cm 37” 94cm 38” 96.6cm 39” 99.1cm 40” 101.7cm 41.5” 105.5cm 43” 109.3cm 44.5” 113.1cm

However, the brand or designer should know how all the measurements
of the garment change. This is further explained in Part 4: GRADE RULES.
In the example below, Large is the fit size. This is an example of a single
POM (point of measure) from the IDES Male Alpha Tops grade rule.

Alpha XS S M L XL XXL 3XL

SLEEVE
-5/8” -5/8” -5/8” 0 +5/8” +5/8” +5/8”
LENGTH
ALPHA V. NUMERIC SIZING SIZING DIFFERENCES
BETWEEN THE FASHION
INDUSTRY & HOME SEWISTS,
AND UNDERSTANDING SIZE
CONVENTIONS

03
COMMERCIAL FASHION INDUSTRY
Size naming conventions are usually based on regional standards. For
example, a North American 0-16 in womenswear is equivalent to 4-20
in the UK or Australia and a 32-50 in European sizing.

In the commercial fashion industry, there are typically separate size ranges
for what are known as straight sizes vs. plus sizes or “big and tall,” as it is
known in menswear. This is because of the need for sample sizes to be fit
in the middle of a range, as well as the possible differences required in the
patterning.

Also in commercial fashion there are two main size naming conventions:
Alpha and Numeric. Numeric sizing (0,2,4...) has a smaller grade than alpha
sizing. (XS,S...) Alpha sizing is used to reduce the number of sizes across a
range of bodies. For example, a size 2 and a size 4 might both wear the
same size small garment.
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

XS S M L XL XXL

Alpha sizing is typically offered in garments that have a lot of ease or stretch,
like t-shirts and outerwear. While numeric sizing is for woven garments
with fitted waists or busts. In simple terms, if the core measurements in
numeric sizes increase 1”/2.5cm for every size, then alpha sizing would
likely increase 2”/5cm for each size. It’s not always that simple, unfortunately.
But we’ll get to that!

XS-XXL US 0-16

T-SHIRT BODICE
HOME SEWING INDUSTRY
In the home sewing industry, inclusive sizing is in high demand. Naming
conventions are less standardized in this world, however measurements
are more strict. Most users rely on accurate size charts. Size names can
mostly be ignored, as long as the measurements in the size chart match
the pattern. Many pattern designers create their own unique size names.

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T

The push amongst home sewists for extensive sizing appears to also push
for the lack of distinction between straight and plus categories. This all
comes down to personal preference. It is my personal belief that the
naming convention is secondary to the fit. If the fit is done well and the
sizing is accurate to the body measurements in the size chart, that should
be all that matters. I do strongly believe that with an extensive size range,
at least two sample sizes are necessary and large and small patterns may
require differences in fit and pattern to be successful.

A full bust adjustment is just one example of a pattern difference between

larger sizes and smaller sizes. Others might include adding darts where
they don’t exist, adding elastic or other adjustable features, pocket size or
placement, button spacing or quantity and adjusting construction method.
HOME SEWING INDUSTRY
When it comes to home sewing, grade rules might differ. People who make
their own clothes expect them to fit more accurately than store bought, and
rightly so. Independent pattern designers might use smaller grading amounts
or “half sizing.” Another common practice amongst sewists is grading
between sizes. This term isn’t really referring to grading, but rather using a
graded pattern to blend sizes together to better match a person’s individual
measurements. This might look like using the waist of one size and blending
it to the hip of another. 16
14
12
10
8
6
16 4
14 2
12 0
10
8
6
4
2
0

16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

Independent pattern designers are less likely to use alpha sizing at all and
home sewing seems to be the only industry where cup sizing is defined.
Cup sizing in garment making is different to cup sizing in bras. There are
typically only 4 options: A, B, C, D. This specification is only needed for
woven, fitted garments and is unique to the home sewing industry. It is
used to get the most accurate, personalised fit. Unlike bras, cup sizing in
garments is determined by the difference between the “over bust” or “high
bust” measurement and the bust or “full bust.” Every 1” (2.5cm) difference is
equal to 1 cup size.

Bust - Over Bust = Cup Size

A cup: 1” 2.5cm
B cup: 2” 5cm
C cup: 3” 7.6cm
D cup: 4” 10.2cm
GRADE RULES THE DIFFERENCE
BETWEEN GRADE RULES
AND GRADING ITSELF,
AND THE NUANCES
TO GRADING

04
A grade rule is effectively a chart of measurements that tells you how each
point of a garment changes from one size to the next. Most brands have
established grade rules or rely on a professional grader to supply one.

Male Numeric Bottoms

Size 29 30 31 32 33 34 36 38 40 42
WAISTBAND CIRC. -1” -1” -1” -1” -1” 0 +2” +2” +2” +2”

WAISTBAND HEIGHT 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

HIP CIRC. @ 3” BELOW WB -1” -1” -1” -1” -1” 0 +2” +2” +2” +2”

HIP CIRC. @ 5” BELOW WB -1” -1” -1” -1” -1” 0 +2” +2” +2” +2”

FRONT RISE -1/4” -1/4” -1/4” -1/4” -1/4” 0 +1/2” +1/2” +1/2” +1/2”

BACK RISE -3/8” -3/8” -3/8” -3/8” -3/8” 0 +3/4” +3/4” +3/4” +3/4”

THIGH CIRC @ 1” DOWN -1/2” -1/2” -1/2” -1/2” -1/2” 0 +1” +1” +1” +1”

KNEE CIRC @ 14” DOWN -3/8” -3/8” -3/8” -3/8” -3/8” 0 +3/4” +3/4” +3/4” +3/4”

LEG OPENING -1/4” -1/4” -1/4” -1/4” -1/4” 0 +1/2” +1/2” +1/2” +1/2”

THIS IS AN ABBREVIATED EXAMPLE GRADE RULE, WHERE SIZE 34 IS THE SAMPLE SIZE. THE MEASUREMENTS DENOTE THE CHANGE
FROM ONE SIZE TO THE NEXT. PLEASE NOTE, SIZES ARE NOT CONSISTENT. SIZES BELOW 34 INCLUDE “IN-BETWEEN” WAIST SIZES.

Often the grading of core measurements– like bust, waist and hip– is fairly
standardized across the industry, with little variation, while things like
sleeve length or inseam are less agreed upon and often hotly debated.

The nuances to grading, which make it ever complicated, are the ways in
which our bodies change as we get bigger and the variety of shapes.
Often grade rules reflect the customer base of a brand. A grade rule will
be different depending on if the larger sizes are based on individuals of the
same height or people getting bigger and taller in a *more proportionate
way. (*Humans never get bigger in a fully proportionate way. If we did, we
could just hold shift and drag a pattern out to make each new size.)

0 16

IF HUMANS GREW PROPORTIONATELY REALITY

Here is an example of some of the nuances to grading and why your
customer base is important when it comes to making grading decisions.
If you have two people of the same height, a size 0 and a size 16, the same
inseam on a trouser pattern is going to appear longer on the size 16 body,
because of the way trousers sit lower through the seat on bigger bodies.

SIZE 0 SIZE 16
5’6” 5’6”
30” INSEAM 30” INSEAM

A common practice to deal with this is to slowly step up the inseam length
on larger sizes to gradually become shorter. However, this only addresses
average height people in bigger sizes, but not larger and taller bodies.

1416
12
0-10

In menswear, often the length of a shirt will increase more in larger sizes,
because men tend to gain weight in the belly. However, just like women,
men can get bigger and taller simultaneously or they can simply get bigger.

Alvanon addresses some of the nuances in body changes with “Classic”

and “Athletic” ranges. However, Alvanon really doesn’t address the issue of
height. Most commercial grading standards are based on a regional average
for height. Brands may offer inseam options or tall and petite ranges to
help deal with this, but often for financial reasons, companies find
themselves catering to one particular customer.
Understanding how much a measurement increases from one size to the
next is the beginning of understanding grading.

However, the execution of it is the grading itself. And this requires an

understanding of which points on the pattern to move and by how much
to achieve a consistent fit across all sizes.

The whole purpose of grading is to not have to create ten or more unique
patterns. Essentially it’s basic addition and subtraction, however it’s based
on decades of knowledge and data about the human body. And this data
changes over time.

The goal is to create a fairly consistent, gradual grade that achieves the
same fit as the sample size on as many different bodies as possible.
Which– hopefully by now you know– is a near impossible feat that we all
just hope to get closer and closer to achieving each time.
HOW GRADING WORKS GRADING METHODS,
SOFTWARE & A BASIC
INTRO TO HOW IT IS
EXECUTED

05
There are many methods to grading. There are even special rulers designed
for grading by hand, but most grading these days is done digitally.

In the commercial fashion industry there are a handful of industry

standards for grading software. (Lectra, Gerber, Optitex and a few others)
They can be expensive and the learning curve for the software itself is
steep, apart from just knowing how to grade. There are also not a ton of
resources for learning those programs that are easily accessible or widely
known. LECTRA

GERBER

For individuals, while the current standard software amongst home sewists
is Adobe Illustrator, it is my belief that the best option for grading your own
patterns is CLO. Neither are as robust as the 2D CADs used by industry
professionals, but CLO is as affordable as Adobe and it is incredibly user
friendly. While it works quite similarly to Illustrator, it is specifically designed
for pattern making and has many features specific to grading patterns that
make the process much more efficient and accurate. And of course, CLO
has many other benefits, but I won’t touch on those here.
CLO
As I said before, the real challenge to executing a grade rule in the form of
grading is understanding where to move points and by how much. When
grading digitally, you must increase and decrease from the pattern edges,
unlike grading by hand where you might slash through the middle of a pattern.

Usually you want to have an anchor point where everything grades from.
That might be Centre Front or Centre back on a top, or a central line on a
trouser. Those would be the horizontal anchors. You also want to have an
anchor vertically. This might be the neck drop on a top or the knee on a
trouser. Essentially, the intersection of these two anchoring lines will be a
fixed point and everything will grade out from there. On tops it’s best not to
grade CF or CB.

Once you have your grade rules established and you understand where
you’re grading from, it becomes a lot of basic math. And it is basic math
(+/- 1/4” or .6cm, for example), but it is not easy. Once you factor in the
interaction of many different points of measure, it can feel complicated.
For a simple example, we’ll use a basic t-shirt. Let’s say for each size, the
body circumference increases 2” or 5cm. However, for the sake of realism,
we will say that from size XL and up, it increases 3” or 7.5cm. This is
another example of the nuances often found within grading. A grade rule
rarely remains consistent across a full size spectrum.
Alpha XS S M L XL XXL
WAIST -2” -2” -2” 0 +3” +3”

The change in body circumference will be distributed across all the side
seams. The front and back body each have two side seams. Therefore,
each of the four side seams will increase/decrease 1/2” or 1.3cm up to size
L and then 3/4” or 1.9cm for size XL and above.

+1/2” ALL SIZES +1/2” XS-L

+3/4” XL-XXL

You can see how this gets complicated when you factor in the grade rule
for the armhole or body length, for curved seams especially. Suddenly the
amount a point moves is a less straight-forward measurement, but more
about creating smooth, gradual increases and decreases. Then there is the
added complication of matching pattern seams, like sleeves to armholes,
to ensure that seams sewing together continue to match across all sizes.
Not to mention, notches and maintaining consistent sleeve cap ease.
If you’re a complete beginner to the concept of grading and you want to
begin grading your patterns, I suggest starting by referencing standardized
grade rules, like Alvanon, to help you establish your sizes.

The easiest way to quickly understand the execution process of grading is

to study patterns that have already been graded properly. I have over a
decade of experience working with and even creating grade rules from
scratch, but even I was not confident in the grading execution itself. When
I first began grading my blocks, I sent out some of my core styles to be
professionally graded. Then I was able to use those styles as references to
grade similar patterns. I quickly began to learn how my grade rules
translated into the grading execution itself.

If you have a more complex style of the same grade rule (Male Alpha),
like the above Outerwear Block (left), then you can reference that to
grade a less complex style like the T-Shirt Block (right). In addition you
can use a similar Male style to grade a Female style. Even if the
measurements or grade aren't identical, you can reference how the
math is done and where things are increased/decreased.
IDES block patterns are not just a resource for pattern creation. They can
be also be used just as described on the previous page. The PDF patterns
are nested in the same way they are graded, for the exact purpose of being
a reference for users that are learning to grade their own patterns.

IDES blocks have been fit tested both in 3D and real life. They are designed
to do the heavy lifting for you. They are well-balanced and include
appropriate ease based on the style of garment. See a bit of the selection
below. Click on a style and it will link to the product on the website.

Female Bodice Block Male Trouser Block Female Raglan Jacket Block Male Outerwear Block
US Sizes 0-16 / AU 4-20 US Waist Sizes 28-42 Sizes XS-XXL Sizes XS-3XL

If you’re curious about the benefits of using CLO, whether for pattern
creation, 3D fitting or grading, you can learn more by following IDES
on Instagram or YouTube.

I can’t wait for you to join me in improving your garment and pattern
making process and continuing to #makedigital.

- Isabel
Founder, IDES Studio

ides.studio