Chapter | 19 - Cooling Water System | Page 1 of 8
19 Cooling Water System version : 19-200142-04
19.1 Description
19.1.1 General
The engine is cooled by a closed circuit cooling water system, divided into a high temperature circuit (HT) and a low temperature circuit (LT).
The cooling water is cooled in a separate central cooler.
figure: 19-1 Cooling water system
19.1.2 HT circuit
The HT circuit cools the cylinders and cylinder heads.
A centrifugal pump (7) circulates the water through the HT circuit. From the pump the water flows to the distributing duct, cast in the engine
block. From the distributing ducts the water flows to the cylinder water jackets, further through connection pieces to the cylinder heads where it
is forced by the intermediate deck to flow along the flame plate, around the nozzle and the exhaust valve seats, efficiently cooling all these
components. From the cylinder head the water flows through the multiduct to the collecting duct, further to the temperature control valve
maintaining the temperature at the right level.
19.1.3 Venting and pressure control of HT-circuit
For venting the system a venting pipe from the multiducts are connected to a box (12). From this box the vent pipe leads to the expansion tank
(11) from which the expansion pipe is connected to the inlet pipe of the pumps (7 and 8). A static pressure of 0.7 - 1.5 bar is required before the
pumps. If the expansion tank cannot be located high enough to provide this pressure, the system is to be pressurized.
19.1.4 LT circuit
The LT circuit consists of a charge air cooler (9) and a lube oil cooler (1) through which a pump (8) of similar design as the HT pump, circulates
the water. The circuit temperature is controlled by a temperature control valve (2) maintaining about the same LT circuit temperature on
different load levels. The necessary cooling is gained from the central cooler (3). The system outside the engine can vary from one installation to
another.
19.1.5 Relief valve and venting of LT circuit
The LT circuit is provided with a relief valve (2), see [Fig 19-2] , to prevent over pressure in the system. It is located on the top of air cooler (4)
and equipped with the overflow pipe (1). A pressure of 5 bar is required to open the relief valve.
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The LT-water circuit is continuously vented through a vent pipe (3), connected to the expansion tank.
figure: 19-2 Relief valve
19.1.6 Preheating
For preheating of the circuit, a heater circuit with the pump (6) and heater (5) are connected in the HT circuit before the engine. The non-return
valves in the engine circuit force the water to flow in the right direction.
Before start, the HT circuit is heated up to 60 - 80°C by a separate heater. This is of utmost importance when starting and idling on heavy fuel.
19.1.7 Monitoring
Local thermometers:
HT before and after engine,
LT before charge air cooler,
LT before lube oil cooler,
LT after lube oil cooler.
The temperatures mentioned in chapter 01., section [01.2] , should not be exceeded.
Manometers (14) and (15) on the instrument panel indicate HT and LT pressures after the pumps. The pressures depend on the speed and the
installation. Guidance values, see chapter 01., section [01.2] .
The HT water outlet after the engine is provided with a temperature sensor for control, alarm and a stop switch. Main engines are provided with
alarm switches for low HT and LT pressure.
For further information, see chapter [23] .
19.2 Maintenance
19.2.1 General
The installation - including expansion, venting, preheating, pressurizing - should be carried out strictly according to the instructions of the engine
manufacturer to obtain correct and troublefree service.
The cooling water should be treated according to the recommendations in chapter 02., section [02.3] , to prevent corrosion and deposits.
If risk of frost occurs, drain all cooling water spaces. Avoid changing the cooling water. Save the discharged water and use it again.
Remember to mount the plug and open the cooling water connections before the engine is started again.
19.2.2 Cleaning
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In completely closed systems the fouling will be minimal if the cooling water is treated according to the instructions in chapter 02., section
[02.3] . Depending on the cooling water quality and the efficiency of the treatment, the cooling water spaces will foul more or less over the
course of time. Deposits on cylinder liners, cylinder heads and cooler stacks should be removed as they may disturb the heat transfer to the
cooling water and thus cause serious damage.
The need of cleaning should be examined, especially during the first year of operation. This may be done by overhauling a cylinder liner and
checking for fouling and deposits on the liner and block.
The deposits can be of the most various structures and consistences. In principle, they can be removed mechanically and/or chemically as
described below. More detailed instructions for cleaning of coolers are stated in chapter 18., section [18.5] .
A) Mechanical cleaning
A great deal of the deposits consists of loose sludge and solid particles which can be brushed and rinsed off with water.
On places where the accessability is good, e.g. cylinder liners, mechanical cleaning of considerably harder deposits is efficient.
In some cases it is advisable to combine chemical cleaning with a subsequent mechanical cleaning as the deposits may have dissolved during the
chemical treatment without having come loose.
B) Chemical cleaning
Narrow water spaces (e.g. cylinder heads, coolers) can be cleaned chemically. At times, degreasing of the water spaces may be necessary if the
deposits seem to be greasy (see chapter 18., section [18.5]
Deposits consisting of primarily limestone can be easily removed when treated with an acid solution. On the contrary, deposits consisting of
calcium sulphate and silicates may be hard to remove chemically. The treatment may, however, have a certain dissolving effect which enables
the deposits to be brushed off if there is only access.
On the market there are a lot of suitable agents on acid base (supplied e.g. by the companies mentioned in chapter 02., section [02.3] ).
The cleaning agents should contain additives (inhibitors) to prevent corrosion of the metal surfaces. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions
to obtain the best result.
After treatment, rinse carefully to remove cleaning agent residuals. Brush surfaces, if possible. Rinse again with water and further with a sodium
carbonate solution (washing soda) of 5 % to neutralize possible acid residuals.
19.3 Water pump
19.3.1 Description
The water pump is a centrifugal pump and is driven by the gear mechanism at the free end of the engine. The shaft is made of acid resistant
steel, the impeller (6) and the remaining details of cast iron.
The shaft is mounted in two ball bearings (8) and (10), which are lubricated by splash oil entering through the opening in the bearing housing.
The shaft seal (16) prevents the oil from leaking out and, at the same time, dirt and leak water from entering.
The gear wheel (12) is fastened to the shaft by conical ring elements (13). When the screws (14) are tightened, the rings exert a pressure
between the gear wheel and the shaft. Due to the friction, the power from the gear wheel is transmitted to the pump shaft.
The water side of the pump is provided with a mechanical shaft seal. The ring (4) rotates along with the shaft and seals against it with the O-
ring. The spring presses the rotating ring against a fixed ring (3) which seals against the housing with the O-ring (7). Possible leak-off water or
lubricating oil from the sealings can flow out through an opening (18).
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figure: 19-3 Cooling water pump
19.3.2 Maintenance
Normal maintenance operations, like removal of impeller or replacing the mechanical seal, can be done without removing the complete pump
from the engine.
Check the pump at intervals according to the recommendations in chapter [04] or, if water and oil leakage occurs, immediately.
Check that the "telltale" hole (18) is open every now and then.
A) Disassembling and assembling of impeller
1 Remove the volute casing by loosening the clamp (1) and the fastening screws.
2 Loosen the impeller fastening screw (5).
3 Pull off the impeller by using an extractor [837026] .
4 When reassembling the impeller, tighten the screw to torque, see chapter [07] .
5 Check that the O-ring (2) and non-return valve O-rings on the engine block are intact and in position when re-installing the volute
casing. Check that the volute casing is in position.
6 Mount the clamp and tighten the screws.
A) Disassembling and assembling of mechanical shaft seal
1 Remove the impeller according to pos. a) above.
2 Carefully dismantle all seal details. Sealing rings are very fragile.
3 Take particular care not to damage sealing surfaces as a slight scratch may disturb the sealing function.
4 Replace the complete seal if it is leaky, or if sealing faces are corroded, uneven or worn. Avoid touching the sealing faces with
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fingers.
Warning!
Do not use mineral oil when fitting seal -Use liquid soap or water.
Some of the Seal Components are manufactured from a rubber which is not suitable for use with Hydrocarbon oils.
Any discolouration or bloom on the rubber components of this seal will not in any way adversely affect its operation.
5 Note that the seal is independent of the direction of rotation.
6 Reassemble the details in proper order and install the impeller according to pos. a) above. Do not forget the thin washer between
the spring and the O-ring.
B) Replacing of bearings and shaft seal.
1 Remove the pump from the engine.
2 Disassemble the impeller and mechanical seal according to pos. a) and b) above.
3 Loosen the screws (14) and remove the pressure plate (15).
4 Pull off the gear wheel without using any tool. If the gear wheel does not come loose, a few strokes with a non-recoiling hammer
will help. (The friction ring elements (13) come loose together with the gear wheel.)
Using an extractor will only damage the shaft (axial scratches).
5 Loosen the bearing retainer (11) and drive out the shaft and bearing.
6 Check the seal (16) and the bearings for wear and damage. If the seal is leaking, knock it out using a suitable brass piece.
7 Remove the bearings. Press the bearing by its inner ring with a suitable pipe.
8 Inspect the shaft for wear and damage.
9 Oil the new seal and insert it by pressing against the shoulder.
10 Oil the collar and press the bearing in by its inner ring with a suitable pipe. See [Fig 19-4] .
11 Turn the shaft according to [Fig 19-4] .
12 Oil the collar and press the bearing in by its inner ring with a suitable pipe. See [Fig 19-4] .
13 Turn the housing according to [Fig 19-4] and oil the outer surfaces of the bearings. Press the shaft into the housing by both the
inner and outer ring of the bearing with a suitable pipe.
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figure: 19-4 Mounting of bearings
14 Fit the bearing retainer (11). Lock the screws with locking compound.
15 Before re-installing the gear wheel, all contact surfaces should be cleaned and oiled.
figure: 19-5 Mounting of gear wheel to water pump
16 Re-install the gear wheel and the friction ring elements (13). The friction ring elements should fall easily in place and must not
jam.
17 Re-install the pressure plate (15).
18 Tighten the screws a little and check that the gear wheel is in the right position.
19 Tighten the screws to torque according to chapter [07] .
20 Assemble the impeller and the mechanical seal according to pos. a) and b) above.
19.4 Temperature control system
19.4.1 General description
The LT-circuit is provided with a fixed thermostatic valve fitted in the lube oil cooler.
The HT circuit is provided with a fixed thermostatic valve mounted inside the bracket of connecting box or integrated in the turbocharger bracket
to maintain the HT outlet water temperature. Operation temperatures according to chapter 01, section [01.2] .
19.4.2 LT and HT thermostatic valve
[Link] Description
The thermostatic valve is equipped with positive three-way valve action in which the water is positively made to flow in the direction required.
When the engine is started up and is cold, the thermostatic valve causes all of the water to be positively by-passed back into the engine, thus
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providing the quickest warm-up period possible. After warm up, the correct amount of water is by-passed and automatically mixed with the cold
water returning from the heat exchanger or other cooling device to produce the desired water outlet temperature. If ever required, the
thermostatic valve will shut off positively on the by-pass line for maximum cooling. The three-way action of the valve allows a constant water
flow through the pump and engine at all times with no pump restriction when the engine is cold.
figure: 19-6 Water flow in temperature control valve
No adjustments are ever required on the thermostatic valve. The temperature is specified at the factory. The temperature can be changed only
by changing temperature element assemblies which is easily accomplished by unscrewing the housing. The valve is entirely self-contained, and
there are no external bulbs or lines to become damaged or broken. There are no packing glands to tighten and no parts to oil.
The power creating medium utilises the expansion of the element contents, [Fig 19-7] , [Fig 19-8] or [Fig 19-9] , which remains in a semi-solid
form and is highly sensitive to temperature changes.
Most of the expansion takes place during the melting period of approximately two minutes over a temperature change of approximately 8.5°C.
The thermostatic valve is provided with two elements. Since flow is diverted either to by-pass or heat exchanger, failure of an element would
cause no change in pressure drop.
The contents of the elements has an almost infinite force when heated and is positively sealed. When the elements are heated, this force is
transmitted to the piston thus moving the sliding valve towards the seat to the by-pass closed position. This force is opposed by a high spring
force, which moves the sliding valve to the heat exchanger closed position when the elements are cooled. The high force available on heating is
the basis of the fail safe feature in which failure of the element would cause the engine to run cold.
figure: 19-7 LT thermostatic valve
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figure: 19-8 HT thermostatic valve, TC at the driving end
figure: 19-9 HT thermostatic valve, TC at the free end
19.4.3 Maintenance
Normally, no service is required. Too low or too high water temperature could indicate a malfunctioning thermostat or damaged o-rings.
1 Drain the cooling water circuit.
2 Remove the elements by removing the cover (2) and the holder of element (5), [Fig 19-7] and [Fig 19-8] (TC at the driving end).
Use screws (M8) for extracting the holder of element.
3 Remove the elements by removing the flange for thermostat (1), [Fig 19-9] (TC at the free end). The extractor tool ( [837027] ) to
be used when removing of the bush (5) for the thermostat.
4 Check the element by heating it slowly in water. Check at which temperatures the element starts opening and is fully open. The
correct values can be found on the thermostatic element or in chapter [01] ; the lower value for the water temperature is the opening
temperature, the higher for the fully open valve.
5 Change the defective element. Check o-rings and replace, if necessary. Apply sealing compound to the sealing faces between the
cover (2) and the bracket, see [Fig 19-7] and [Fig 19-8] .
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Wärtsilä Corporation
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