Cyprus Dk Publishing - PDF Download (2025)

[Link]

Visit [Link] today to download the complete set of

ebooks or textbooks
We have selected some products that you may be interested in
Click the link to download now or visit [Link]
for more options!.

Budapest Dk Publishing

[Link]

DK Workbooks Math First Grade Dk Publishing

[Link]
publishing/

South Africa Dk Publishing

[Link]

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Barcelona Catalonia Dk

Publishing

[Link]
catalonia-dk-publishing/
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide The Netherlands Dk Publishing

[Link]
netherlands-dk-publishing/

Reptiles 1st Edition Dk Publishing

[Link]

Earth 1st Edition Dk Publishing

[Link]

Everything on Earth Dk Publishing

[Link]

Mix Match Meals Dk Publishing

[Link]
Cyprus Dk Publishing Digital Instant Download
Author(s): DK Publishing
ISBN(s): 9780756661618, 0756661617
Edition: Rep Rev
File Details: PDF, 43.87 MB
Year: 2010
Language: english
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

CYPRUS
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

CYPRUS
GRZEGORZ MICUŁA
MAGDALENA MICUŁA
 CONTENTS
INTRODUCING
CYPRUS

Produced by Hachette Livre Polska sp. z o.o., Warsaw, Poland DISCOVERING CYPRUS 8
SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER
Paweł Pasternak
EDITORS
Agnieszka Majle,
Robert G. Pasieczny
MAIN CONTRIBUTORS
Elżbieta Makowiecka, Grzegorz Micuła, Magdalena Micuła
CARTOGRAPHERS
Magdalena Polak, Michał Zielkiewicz
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Dorota and Mariusz Jarymowicz, Krzysztof Kur
ILLUSTRATORS
Michał Burkiewicz, Paweł Marczak, Bohdan Wróblewski
TYPESETTING AND LAYOUT
Elżbieta Dudzińska, Paweł Kamiński, Grzegorz Wilk
Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore.
Printed and bound by L. Rex Printing Company Limited, China
First American Edition 2006
Cypriot saint, Agios Mamas, the
10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Byzantine Museum in Pafos
Published in the United States by
DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street,
New York, New York 10014
Reprinted with revisions 2008, 2010 PUTTING CYPRUS ON
Copyright © 2006, 2010 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London THE MAP 10
A Penguin Company
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT
RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED A PORTRAIT OF
IN OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM, CYPRUS 12
OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR
OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE
COPYRIGHT OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK.
CYPRUS THROUGH
PUBLISHED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY DORLING KINDERSLEY LIMITED.
THE YEAR 22
A CATALOG RECORD FOR THIS BOOK IS AVAILABLE FROM THE LIBRARY OF
CONGRESS.
ISSN 1542 1554 THE HISTORY OF
ISBN: 978-0-75666-161-8
CYPRUS 26
FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH EUROPEAN
USAGE, I.E., THE “FIRST FLOOR” IS ONE FLIGHT UP.
Front cover main image: Chrysopolitissa Church, Pafos

The information in every

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as
up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details,
however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,
gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change.
The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any
consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any
material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee
that any website address in this book will be a suitable
source of travel information.
We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please
write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Beach in the bustling resort of
Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain.
Agia Napa in southeast Cyprus

Sanctuary of Apollo Ylatis, near Kourion

Ruins of the Sanctuary of Apollo Ylatis, near Kourion

CYPRUS REGION TRAVELLERS’ TRAVEL INFORMATION

BY REGION NEEDS 200

CYPRUS AT A GLANCE WHERE TO STAY 156 INDEX 204

38
WHERE TO EAT 166
WEST CYPRUS 40
SHOPPING IN CYPRUS
178

ENTERTAINMENT IN
CYPRUS 182

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES Bakláva, a typically

Cypriot dessert
184

SURVIVAL GUIDE ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

212
PRACTICAL
INFORMATION 190 PHRASE BOOK 213

Picturesque Kyrenia harbour, one

of the most beautiful in Cyprus

SOUTHERN
CYPRUS 60

TROODOS
MOUNTAINS 84

CENTRAL CYPRUS 102

Kyrenia Castle
SOUTH NICOSIA 112 (pp148–9)

NORTH CYPRUS 124

INTRODUCING
CYPRUS

DISCOVERING CYPRUS 89

PUTTING CYPRUS ON THE MAP 1011
A PORTRAIT OF CYPRUS 1221
CYPRUS THROUGH THE YEAR 2225
THE HISTORY OF CYPRUS 2635
8 I N T R O D U C I N G C Y P R U S

DISCOVERING CYPRUS
C yprus has a long and illustrious
history spanning more than
10,000 years. It has been
influenced by periods of Hellenistic,
Roman, Byzantine, Venetian,
Larnaka is famous for its sailing
waters and Nicosia is known for
its shops, universities and
history. In contrast, traditional
villages, many with old churches,
Ottoman, British and most recently lie in the mountainous interior,
Greek-Turkish rule. An island of and rugged open countryside
great contrasts, each town has a offers wildlife and sporting
vibrancy of its own. Limassol opportunities. Below is an over-
A statuette
has some of the best nightlife, of Aphrodite view of Cyprus’ unique regions.

the chance to admire splendid

views out to sea.
The glorious waters of
Larnaka (see pp78–81) are a
sailor’s paradise, with little
tide activity and steady
winds. Drop anchor in a
sheltered cove and swim in
the crystal waters or dive to
some of the island’s ship-
wrecks. Larnaka marina, at
the end of the town’s palm
tree-fringed promenade, has
good amenities for sailors.

The crystal-clear waters along the coast of the Akamas peninsula TROODOS MOUNTAINS

the day it teems with fisher- • Beautiful UNESCO churches

WEST CYPRUS men bringing in their catch • Action-packed Platres
and pleasure boats vying for • The museum at Kykkos
• History at Kato Pafos trade; at night the harbour- Monastery
• The Akamas peninsula side restaurants turn the
• Vibrant Latsi harbour fresh fish and seafood into The Troodos mountain region
delicious traditional dishes. is home to some spectacular
The Kato Pafos Archaeolo- churches, ten of which (see
gical Park (see pp52–3) p109) were awarded World
includes four villas that once SOUTHERN CYPRUS Heritage status by UNESCO
belonged to wealthy residents in recognition of their
of the town: the House of • Limassol’s fine wine festival colourful Byzantine frescoes.
Dionysos, the House of • Plays at the Kourion A cool summer climate
Aion, the House of Orpheus • Larnaka’s sailing waters and plentiful winter snow-
and the House of Theseus falls make Platres (see p93)
contain breathtaking mosaics A famous wine festival is held and the surrounding
with images of mythological every September in Limassol countryside perfect for all
figures, along with remains of (see pp68–73). The villages outdoor activities including
walls, terraces and columns. around this seaside town – hiking, mountain biking,
The Akamas peninsula (see on the gentle south-facing fishing and, in winter, skiing
pp55–7), at the easternmost slopes of the Troodos – and snowboarding.
point of the island, is a delight produce some of the island’s
for hikers and nature lovers. best Chardonnay, Riesling,
An important area for flora Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet
and fauna, the peninsula Sauvignon and Grenache,
boasts around 600 different along with Cyprus’ own
plant species and 200 different wine Commandaria.
animal species. The coastline It would be tough to find a
is dotted with coves where better location for a play than
boats can anchor and the the Kourion (see pp66–7).
clear waters can be explored. This Roman theatre built in
Just along the coast is Latsi the 2nd century AD offers Doorway into Kykkos church
harbour (see p55). During near-perfect acoustics and decorated with mosaics
 D I S C O V E R I N G C Y P R U S 9

The museum at Kykkos

Monastery (see pp90–91) is SOUTH NICOSIA
reached by ascending a high
flight of steps and turning • Charming Old City streets
into a small shop. This opens • Must-see museums
out on to an amazing • Nicosia from above
collection of artifacts and
paintings that is displayed Nicosia may be a thoroughly
alongside lavish religious modern city, but examples of
robes and ceramics. its long history are never far
away. Head off to explore the
tiny streets of the Old Town
CENTRAL CYPRUS (see pp116–17) to really
appreciate the city’s charm.
• Cycling in the wilderness Traditional houses line the
• Beautiful Machairas streets of Aristokyprou
monastery Street, Praxippou Street and Pretty streets of the Old Town in
• Tamassos and Idalion Filokyprou Street; many of South Nicosia
them are being turned into
restaurants and little shops
selling jewellery and local NORTH CYPRUS
crafts. Another old part of
the city is around the • Ancient Salamis
Cathedral of St John (see • Bellapais and its view
p119), which contains some • Kyrenia’s harbourside life
well-preserved frescoes
depicting biblical scenes. The ruins of the ancient port
The city has some fine of Salamis (see pp134–5) are
museums, including the Folk the largest in Cyprus. They
Art Museum (see p118) and include an amphitheatre,
the Cyprus Museum (see rows of beautifully preserved
pp122–3), which contains columns, mosaics and a bath
important artifacts, including chamber where the under-
Secluded Greek Orthodox a 2nd century AD statue of ground water-heating system
Machairas monastery Septimius Severus, a collection can still be seen.
of terracotta warriors and a 1st The well-preserved ruins of
Central Cyprus is a haven of century AD Roman statuette Bellapais abbey (see p145) are
tranquillity, with very few of Aphrodite of Soloi. a lovely example of Gothic
cars apart from the occasional See Nicosia from above, architecture. The village is
tourist-hired vehicle. Cyclists courtesy of the Laiki Geitonia also worth a visit for the
will find the most challenging observatory (see p121), which view down the citrus-tree-
terrain in the National Forest can be accessed from street clad hillside to the sea below.
of Athalassa (see p106) or level through an entrance at With a fort standing guard
the Adelfoi Forest. the side of the Debenhams to the east and a natural
Machairas (see p110) is one store in Ledra Street. A horseshoe harbour, Kyrenia
of the island’s most famous sprawling cityscape unfolds is one of the prettiest resorts
monasteries. The beautiful before you in all directions, on the island (see pp146–9).
church and cloisters date with church spires and Along the harbourside are
from the 20th century, and mosque minarets peeping quaint buildings housing
were built to house an icon through the rooftops. cosy seafood restaurants.
of the Holy Virgin pierced
by a sword, which was
attributed to St Luke.
Believed to date back to
4000 BC, Tamassos (see p107)
grew wealthy when copper
was discovered here. Ancient
remains include two well-
preserved royal tombs dated
to around 650–600 BC and a
temple. Idalion (see p108),
which dates from the Bronze
Age, was an important city-
state. Some of its 14 temples
have been unearthed as part
of ongoing excavations. Boats moored at the picturesque harbour of Kyrenia
 10 I N T R O D U C I N G C Y P R U S

Putting Cyprus on the Map

Situated in the eastern Mediterranean Sea,
Cyprus is its third largest island (after Sicily
and Sardinia), covering an area of 9,250 sq km
(3,571 sq miles) with a 720 km- (447-mile-) long
coastline. Divided since 1974 into the Greek
Cypriot-governed Republic of Cyprus in the
south and the Turkish-sponsored Turkish Republic
of North Cyprus in the north, both regions share
Nicosia as a capital. The rocky Pentadaktylos Satellite View of Cyprus
mountain range runs along the north, while its The entire island can be seen,
central part is dominated by the mighty massif with the long, narrow Karpasia
of the Troodos mountains. The wildest and least (Karpas) peninsula to the right
accessible areas are the Akamas and and the Troodos mountains in
Karpasia (Karpas) peninsulas. $BQF
,PSNBLJUJ the centre. Turkish Anatolia is
visible to the north.
,ZSFOJB
,BSBWBT (JSOF
-BQJUIPT
-BQUB "MTBOÎBL

- . / 2 4 (  #
4FS %
SB
D IJ 3
.PSGPV
#BZ T
!
.PSGPV /*$04*"
(à[FMZVSU -&',0ł"
$ISZTPDIPV
#BZ "
1FSJTUFSPOB
#
4 ) , , ) 2 ) ! -FGLB





"L
&

&

B LJ


"
1 F SJTU FSPO B

$BQF
"SOBPVUJT &
#

OUB
LPT

!

B LPV "MZ
.
+

1PMJT
# 9 0 2
!


-

&

4
!3

,BLPQFUSJB



&

"
2
#

1BOBHJB
/ 1FMFOESJB
1BMBJDIPSJ
1FHFJB
&
 / # 
(F S

$ / 3 -FGLBSB
Z

NB
FZ

TPH
BMMF
&

BMM


FJB

$PSBM
T
7

7

#

&

P VTB

&

PT
SP

#BZ S J[
9F

1BGPT " %J B
#
&[

 
&
# "TQSPLSFNOPT
%BN
,PVLMJB " "
-JNBTTPM
#
&QJTLPQJ
"LSPUJSJ
#BZ
&QJTLPQJ
#BZ

$BQF
(BUB

View from St Hilarion Castle

St Hilarion Castle in North Cyprus
offers a magnificent, panoramic
view of the coast. The view in this
particular direction shows the
town and harbour of Kyrenia.

Detail of the interior of Asinou Church in the Troodos mountains

 PUTTING CYPRUS ON THE MAP 11

Nicosia
Located at the centre of the island,
surrounded by a ring of Venetian
defence walls, Nicosia is the capital
and financial centre of
$BQF
"QPTUPMPT
the island. One of the old "OESFBT
city bastions can be seen
in the foreground.
3J[PLBSQBTP
"JHJBMPVTB
) !  %JQLBSQB[
:FOJSFOLÚZ
! 3
2 0
!
+

(BMBUFJB
.FINFUDJL

"LBOUIPV
5BUMJTV
5SJLPNP
ęTLFMF
9 0 2 5 3
,ZUISFB -FGLPOPJLP
%FHJSNFOMJL (FDJULBMF 'BNBHVTUB
#BZ
/ 1FEJBJPT

2 'BNBHVTUB
) ˆ
(B[JNBHVTB Troodos Mountains
5ZNWPV 7BUJMJ
7BEJMJ ! "NNPDIPTUPT
,JSLMBS The volcanic massif of the


-ZTJ Troodos mountains rises to

MJBT
(JB

 nearly 2,000 metres (6,400 ft)

&
1BSBMJNOJ above sea level. Extensive
5 "
3 #
"HJB
/BQB
vineyards stretch over its
southern slopes.
"
9ZMPGBHPV
"SBEJQQPV $BQF
(LSFLP KEY
-BSOBLB
Airport
-BSOBLB
#BZ
" Motorway

Main road

Secondary road

Ferry port

Border (The “Green Line”)

0 km 15

0 miles 15

4(%.%4(%2,!.$3 "%,!253 2533)!

EUROPE 0/,!.$
"%,')5- '%2-!.9
,58%-"/52' #:%#(2%05",)# 5+2!).%
3,/6!+2%05",)#
Location of the Island &2!.#%
!5342)! -/,$/6!
(5.'!29
Cyprus lies in the eastern 37)4:%2,!.$
3,/6%.)! 2/-!.)!
#2/!4)!
Mediterranean Sea, squeezed 3%2")!!.$
-/.4%.%'2/
"/3.)!!.$
between Turkey and the coast (%2:%'/6).!
+/3/6/ "5,'!2)!
#-"$,
4&"
!.$/22! #/23)#! )4!,9
of Syria. From here, it is 75 km -!#%$/.)!

!,"!.)!
(46 miles) to Turkey, 100 km (62 30!).
3!2$).)! '2%%#%
452+%9
miles) to Syria and about 360 km
(223 miles) to Egypt. The Greek
45.)3)!
island of Rhodes is 400 km .&%*5&33"/&"/
4&"
#90253 392)!
-/2/##/
(248 miles) away, and Athens !,'%2)!
,%"!./.
)32!%,
,)"9! */2$!.
about 850 km (538 miles) away.
 I N T R O D U C I N G C Y P R U S 13

A PORTRAIT OF CYPRUS

T
he legendary birthplace of Aphrodite, Cyprus enjoys a hot,
Mediterranean climate moderated by sea breezes. Visitors
bask in the sun on its many beaches, but within an hour’s
drive can find themselves in the mountains, enjoying the shade of
cool herb- and resin-scented cedar woods, villages set amid
orchards and peaceful vineyards, as though time stands still here.

Cyprus is an idyllic In the Pafos district,

destination for romantics, valleys overgrown with
with so many old castles, pine and cedar forests
ancient ruins and seclud- provide a home to the
ed mountain monasteries moufflon – a shy
to explore. The explora- mountain sheep. Its
tion of these historic image can be seen on
sights is enhanced by Roman mosaics in Pafos.
Mosaic of Leda with the
plentiful sunshine – over Swan, from Kouklia Cypriot meadows are
300 days of it per year. at their loveliest in
Cyprus also has a great number of springtime, when covered with
scenic beaches, and the warm waters motley carpets of colourful flowers:
encourage bathing and relaxation. anemones, cyclamens, hyacinths,
Tucked away in the shady valleys irises, peonies, poppies and tulips,
are monasteries with ancient icons among others. Orchid lovers will
of the Virgin, at least one of which find over 50 species of these
was supposedly painted by St Luke. beautiful flowers growing in the
The tiny churches, listed as UNESCO sparsely populated regions of the
World Heritage Sites, hide unique island – in the Akamas peninsula,
frescoes – some of the most magnifi- in the Troodos mountains and on
cent masterpieces of Byzantine art. the Pentadaktylos mountain range.

A symbol of Cyprus – an olive tree against the backdrop of a sapphire-blue sea

A chapel next to a hotel complex near Polis

14 I N T R O D U C I N G C Y P R U S

View over the northern part of Nicosia, with the Turkish Cypriot flag carved into the hillside

The island lies on a route for bird traditional, particularly among

migration. Thousands of birds, country people. This is partly due to
including flamingos, cormorants and the power of the Orthodox Church.
swans, can be seen wintering on the Life proceeds at a slow pace in the
salt lakes at Larnaka and Akrotiri. villages, where it centres around
cafés where men spend hours
HISTORIC DIVISIONS playing backgammon and discussing
The winds of history have repeatedly politics. Village women excel in
ravaged this beautiful island. Cyprus sewing and embroidery. In recent
has been ruled in turns by Egyptians, years, there has been gradual
Phoenicians, Persians, Romans, change, with many villages becoming
Byzantines, Crusaders, Franks, deserted as their residents move to
Venetians, Turks and the British. towns, where life is easier and the
Each of these cultures has left its
mark on the architecture, style,
cuisine, language and the mentality
of the island’s inhabitants.
Above all, the island has been
shaped by the conflict between the
Greeks and the Turks. The Greeks first
arrived over 3,000 years ago. The
Turks began to settle here following
the conquest of the island by Sultan
Selim II in 1571.

PEOPLE AND SOCIETY

Cypriot society has been composed
of two completely separate cultures
since the division of the island in
1974 into the Turkish-occupied North
and the Greek-speaking Republic of
Cyprus in the south. Greek Cypriot
society has always been highly An Orthodox priest doing his shopping
 A P O R T R A I T O F C Y P R U S 15

standard of living higher, but this

decline is gradually being reversed;
old houses are frequently bought
by artists, often foreigners, in search
of tranquillity. In Fikardou, two
abandoned houses have been turned
into a museum of village life, and
awarded the Europa Nostra medal for
the preservation of architectural
heritage. Overall, the Republic of
Cyprus is highly urbanized. Women
play a great role in the modern The Cape Gkreko area – one of the most beautiful
economy – running businesses, areas in Cyprus
hotels and restaurants. Life in the
cities of Larnaka, Nicosia and tens of thousands of its people, it
Limassol proceeds at a speedy pace. seemed that the island would never
In the Turkish North, life recover, but the Republic of Cyprus
proceeds at a far gentler has achieved an economic miracle.
pace, partly due to the Over thirty years on, the southern
international boycott that part of the island is very
has afflicted tourism and prosperous. After the 1974
hampered development invasion, hundreds of
since 1974. The North thousands of refugees
is quite separate from from the North found
southern Cyprus in both new homes and began
atmosphere and land- their lives anew. Since
scape, as well as politics. then, national income
It is far less affluent and A lace-maker at work has increased several
more sparsely populated, fold. The economy is
and Islam is the main religion. flourishing, based on tourism,
maritime trade and financial services.
MODERN-DAY CYPRUS The same cannot be said of the
The Republic of Cyprus lives off northern part of the island, where the
tourism. Its towns are bustling and – standard of living is much lower,
like the beaches – full of tourists. caused to a great extent by the inter-
Tourist zones have been established national isolation of North Cyprus.
in Limassol, Larnaka
and Pafos, and around
Agia Napa.
This small island
provides everything for
the holidaymaker, from
beautiful scenery to
delicious food, excellent
hotels, gracious hosts
and historic sights.
Following the Turkish
invasion of Cyprus and
the displacement of Relaxing at an outdoor café on a summer afternoon
16 I N T R O D U C I N G C Y P R U S

Landscape and Wildlife

The Cypriot landscape is surprisingly
varied. Besides high mountains covered
with pine and cedar forests, and the
rugged crags of Kyrenia, the central part
of the island is occupied by the fertile
plain of Mesaoria. The crowded beaches
of Limassol, Pafos and Agia Napa contrast
with the less developed coastal regions
of the Karpasia (Karpas) and Akamas
peninsulas. In spring, the hills and mead-
ows are covered with colourful flowers.
The forests are the habitat of the moufflon
– mountain sheep – while the Karpasia A flock of goats grazing freely – a typical sight in the
peninsula is home to wild donkeys. Cypriot landscape

THE COAST
Besides beautiful sandy and pebble beaches, the coast-
line features oddly shaped rocks jutting out of the sea
and rugged cliffs, which descend steeply into the water.
The northern part of Famagusta Bay and the Karpasia
and Akamas peninsulas feature virtually empty sandy
beaches where loggerheads and green turtles come to
lay their eggs. The exposed Jurassic rocks near Coral
Bay, northwest of Pafos, are being destroyed by erosion.

Lizards, particularly the

ubiquitous sand lizard,
can be seen almost
everywhere. The largest Rocky coastlines are created wherever
Cypriot lizard, Agama mountain ranges reach the sea. The
(Agama stelio cypriaca) rocky coast near Petra tou Romiou
can reach up to 30 cm (Rock of Aphrodite) is being worn
(12 in) in length. away over time by erosion.

ROCK FORMATIONS
The Troodos mountains, in the central
part of Cyprus, are formed of magma rock
containing rich deposits of copper and
asbestos. The Kyrenia mountains (the
Pentadaktylos range), running to the
Karpasia peninsula in the northeast part
of the island, are made of hard, dense
limestone. The lime soils in the southern
part of the island, near Limassol, are
ideally suited for the growing of vines.

Sandy coastlines are found at Agia Napa, Fam-

agusta Bay and the Karpasia peninsula, but the
loveliest beaches are on the Akamas peninsula.

Salt lakes – near

Larnaka and
on the Akrotiri
peninsula – are
a haven for pink
flamingos, wild
ducks and the
Cyprus warbler
(Sylvia melan- Copper mine at Skouriotissa
thorax).
 A P O R T R A I T O F C Y P R U S 17

MOUNTAINS
The island features two mountain ranges,
separated by the fertile Mesaoria plain. The
volcanic Troodos massif in central Cyprus,
dominated by Mount Olympus at 1,951 m
(6,258 ft) above sea level, is covered with pine
and cedar forests. The constant mountain
streams in the Troodos mountains even have
waterfalls. Spring and autumn bring hikers to
the cool forests and rugged valleys, while
winter brings out skiers. The Kyrenia
mountains (the Pentadaktylos or “Five-Finger”
range) in North Cyprus rise a short distance The Troodos mountains are largely forested
inland from the coast. The highest peak is but vines are grown on the southern slopes and
Mount Kyparissovouno, at 1,024 m (3,360 ft). apple and cherry orchards abound in the valleys.

In springtime wild flowers

carpet the hillsides and
meadows of the
island with a
colourful,
fragrant
display.

The Cypriot moufflon

is a spry mountain sheep,
Mountain streams flow year-round, living wild in the forests
bringing cooling water to lower ground. of Pafos, in the western
part of the island.

OTHER REGIONS
The island’s interior is occupied by the vast, fertile Mesaoria plain,
given mainly to grain cultivation. The northern area around
Morfou (Güzelyurt) is full of citrus groves, and to the south, in
the region of Larnaka, runs a range of white semi-desert mountains
stretching for kilometres. The sun-drenched region of Limassol,
with its limestone soil, is a patchwork of vineyards, which yield
grapes for the production of the sweet Commandaria wine.

The Akamas peninsula is a Donkeys can be seen in

remote region in the west the Karpasia peninsula.
of Cyprus. It features the These ageing domesticated
island’s most beautiful wild, animals have been turned
sandy beaches (see pp55–7). loose by their owners.

Pelicans with wing-

spans up to 2.5 m
(8 ft) visit the
island’s salt lakes.
Some stop for a few days,
others remain longer.
These huge birds can also
be seen at the harbours
of Pafos, Limassol and The Karpasia peninsula is a long, narrow strip of land
Agia Napa, where they jutting into the sea. Its main attractions are its wild
are a tourist attraction. environment and historical sights (see pp140–41).
18 I N T R O D U C I N G C Y P R U S

Cypriot Architecture
The long and rich history of Cyprus is
reflected in its architecture, and some true
gems can be glimpsed amid the ocean of
nondescript modern development. The
island has a number of Neolithic settlements
as well as Bronze Age burial chambers, ruins
of ancient buildings (including vast Byzan-
tine basilicas), medieval castles, churches
and monasteries. From the Ottoman era,
relics include mosques and caravanserais.
The British left behind colonial buildings.
In villages, particularly in the mountains,
The Roman II Hotel in Pafos, built to a design
people today still live in old stone houses. based on ancient Roman architecture

ANCIENT ARCHITECTURE
The Greeks, Phoenicians, Romans and Byzantines who once
ruled over Cyprus left behind numerous ancient buildings.
Archaeologists have uncovered the ruins of ancient Kourion,
Amathous, Kition, Soloi, Salamis and Pafos with temples,
theatres, basilicas, bathhouses and palaces. These ancient
ruins include fragments of the old defence walls, sports
stadiums, gymnasiums, and necropolises. Some Roman
theatres are still in use today for shows and festivals.

The palaestra
in Salamis (see
pp134–5) is
surrounded by
colonnades and
statues. It was
devoted to the
training of Kourion, a beautiful,
athletes and to prosperous city, was destroyed
staging sporting by an earthquake in the 4th
competitions. century AD (see pp66–7).

MEDIEVAL ARCHITECTURE
During the 300 years when Cyprus was ruled
by the Crusaders and the Lusignans, many
churches were built, including the opulent
cathedrals in Famagusta and Nicosia. Added
to these were charming village churches and
chapels, Gothic monasteries and castles. The
Venetians, who ruled the island for over 80
years, created the magnificent ring of defence
walls around Nicosia and Famagusta, whose
mighty fortifications Angeloktisi Church in Kiti is one of a number of
held back the small stone churches on the island whose modest
Ottoman army exteriors often hide magnificent Byzantine
for almost a year. mosaics or splendid frescoes (see p76).

Bellapais, with its ruins of

a Gothic abbey, enchants
This beautifully visitors with its imposing
carved capital crowns architecture (see p145).
the surviving column Every spring international
of a medieval palace music festivals are held
in South Nicosia. here (see p22 and p25).
 A P O R T R A I T O F C Y P R U S 19

ISLAMIC ARCHITECTURE
Following the conquest of Cyprus by the army of Selim II, new
structures appeared, including Turkish mosques (minarets were
often added to Gothic cathedrals), bathhouses, caravanserais
and covered bazaars. In many villages you can still see small
mosques with distinctive pointed minarets.

Büyük Han in North Nicosia is a

magnificent example of an Ottoman
caravanserai, with a mescit (prayer
hall) in the courtyard (see p128).

The Hala Sultan Tekke (see p77) is

Cyprus’s most sacred Muslim site. It
comprises a mosque and a mauso-
leum with the tomb of Umm Haram,
aunt of the Prophet Mohammed.

THE COLONIAL PERIOD

British rule on the island from the 18th to
19th centuries marked the beginning of
colonial-style architecture, including churches,
government offices, courts of law, army
barracks, civil servants’ villas, bridges and
other public buildings. The British administra-
tion also admired the Greek Classical style,
and commissioned, designed and built a
great number of Neo-Classical buildings.

The Faneromeni School in South Nicosia (see

p122) is an example of a Neo-Classical public
building. When it was founded in 1852, it was
seen as a connection to the students’ Greek roots.

The Pierides Foundation Museum in Larnaka

is a typical example of colonial architecture with
shaded balconies resting on slender supports
(see p78). Its flat roof and wooden shutters
complement the image of a colonial residence.

MODERN ARCHITECTURE TRADITIONAL HOMES

Following independence in 1960, the For centuries, Cypriot village houses,
architectural style of Cypriot buildings, particularly in the mountains, were built
particularly of public buildings such as of stone, offering the benefit of staying
town halls, offices, banks and hotels became cool in summer and warm in winter.
more modern and functional. Most of these While some new homes imitate the
buildings were erected in Limassol, which traditional style, most are built of
has since become the international business breeze-block and reinforced cement.
capital of Cyprus. The majority of modern
buildings lack architectural merit.

Limassol’s
modern
architecture is
largely limited to
functional office
buildings con-
structed of glass,
concrete and steel,
located in the A modern stone building reminiscent of a
eastern business traditional village home
district of town.
Other documents randomly have
different content
with a slow movement, as the Baroness had played a piece of
execution.
“For this purpose, she chose your favourite bit of Echard; and I
never heard her play it better, if so well. Merlin’s new pedals made it
exquisite; and the expression, feeling, and taste with which she
performed it, raised a general murmur of applause.
“Mr. Harris inquired eagerly the name of the composer. Every body
seemed to be struck, nay enchanted: and charmed into such silence
of attention, that if a pin had dropt, it would have caused a universal
start.
“I should be ashamed not to give you a more noble metaphor, or
simile, or comparison, than a pin; only I know how cheap you hold
all attempts at fine writing; and that you will like my poor simple pin,
just as well as if I had stunned you with a cannon ball.
“Miss Louisa Harris then consented to vary the entertainment by
singing. She was accompanied by Mr. Harris, whose soul seems all
music, though he has made his pen amass so many other subjects
into the bargain. She has very little voice, either for sound or
compass; yet, which is wonderful, she gave us all extreme pleasure;
for she sings in so high a style, with such pure taste, such native
feeling, and such acquired knowledge of music, that there is not one
fine voice in a hundred I could listen to with equal satisfaction. She
gave us an unpublished air of Sacchini’s, introduced by some noble
recitative of that delicious composer.
“She declared, however, she should have been less frightened to
have sung at a theatre, than to such an audience. But she was
prevailed with to give us, afterwards, a sweet flowing rondeau of
Rauzzini’s, from his opera of Piramis and Thisbe. She is extremely
unaffected and agreeable.
“Then followed what my father called the great gun of the evening,
Müthel’s duet for two harpsichords; which my father thinks the
noblest composition of its kind in the world.
“Mr. Burney and the Hettina now came off with flying colours indeed;
nothing could exceed the general approbation. Mr. Harris was in an
ecstacy that played over all his fine features; Sir James Lake, who is
taciturn and cold, was surprised even into loquacity in its praise;
Lady Lake, more prone to be pleased, was delighted to rapture; the
fine physiognomy of Miss Phipps, was lighted up to an animation
quite enlivening to behold; and the sweet Baroness de Deiden,
repeatedly protested she had never been at so singularly agreeable
a concert before.
“She would not listen to any entreaty, however, to play again; and all
instrumental music was voted to be out of the question for that
night. Miss Louisa Harris then, with great good breeding, as well as
good nature, was won by a general call to give us a finale, in a fine
bravura air of Sacchini’s, which she sung extremely well, though
under evident and real affright.
“There was then a good deal of chat, very gay and pleasing; after
which the company went away, in all appearance, uncommonly
gratified: and we who remained at home, were, in all reality, the
same.
“But how we wished for our dear Mr. Crisp! Do pray, now, leave your
gout to itself, and come to our next music meeting. Or if it needs
must cling to you, and come also, who knows but that music, which
has

“‘Charms to sooth the savage breast,

To soften rocks, and bend a knotted oak—’

may have charms also, To soften Gout, and Unbend Knotted

Fingers?”

Previously to any further perusal of these juvenile narrations, it is

necessary to premise, that there were, at this period, three of the
most excelling singers that ever exerted rival powers at the same
epoch, who equally and earnestly sought the acquaintance and
suffrage of Dr. Burney; namely,
Miss Cecilia Davies, detta l’Inglesina,
La Signora Agujari, detta la Bastardella,
And the far-famed Signora Gabrielli.

CECILIA DAVIES, DETTA L’INGLESINA.

Miss Cecilia Davies, during a musical career, unfortunately as brief as
it was splendid, had, at her own desire, been made known to Dr.
Burney in a manner as peculiar as it was honourable, for it was
through the medium of Dr. Johnson; a medium which ensured her
the best services of Dr. Burney, and the esteem of all his family.
Her fame and talents are proclaimed in the History of Music, where it
is said, “Miss Davies had the honour of being the first English
woman who performed the female parts in several great theatres in
Italy; to which extraordinary distinction succeeded that of her
becoming the first woman at the great opera theatre of London.”
And in this course of rare celebrity, her unimpeachable conduct, her
pleasing manners, and her engaging modesty of speech and
deportment, fixed as much respect on her person and character, as
her singularly youthful success had fastened upon her professional
abilities.
But, unfortunately, no particulars can be given of any private
performance of this our indigenous brilliant ornament at the house
of Dr. Burney; for though she was there welcomed, and was even
eager to oblige him, the rigour of her opera articles prohibited her
from singing even a note, at that time, to any private party.[4]
The next abstract, therefore, refers to
 AGUJARI, DETTA LA BASTARDELLA.
“To Samuel Crisp, Esq.
“My dear Mr. Crisp,
“My father says I must write you every thing of every sort about
Agujari, that you may get ready, well or ill, to come and hear her. So
pray make haste, and never mind such common obstacles as health
or sickness upon such an occasion.
“La Signora Agujari has been nick-named, my father says, in Italy,
from some misfortune attendant upon her birth—but of which she,
at least, is innocent—La Bastardella. She is now come over to
England, in the prime of her life and her fame, upon an engagement
with the proprietors of the Pantheon, to sing two songs at their
concert, at one hundred pounds a night! My father’s tour in Italy has
made his name and his historical design so well known there in the
musical world, that she immediately desired his acquaintance on her
arrival in London; and Dr. Maty, one of her protectors in this country,
was deputed to bring them together; which he did, in St. Martin’s-
Street, last week.
“Dr. Maty is pleasing, intelligent, and well bred; though formal,
precise, and a rather affected little man. But he stands very high,
they say, in the classes of literature and learning; and, moreover, of
character and worthiness.
He handed the Signora, with much pompous ceremony, into the
drawing-room, where—trumpets not being at hand—he introduced
her to my father with a fine flourish of compliments, as a
phenomenon now first letting herself down to grace this pigmy
island.
This style of lofty grandeur seemed perfectly accordant with the
style and fancy of the Signora; whose air and deportment
announced deliberate dignity, and a design to strike all beholders
with awe, as well as admiration.
She is a handsome woman, of middle stature, and seems to be
about twenty-four or twenty-five years of age; with a very good and
healthy complexion, becomingly and not absurdly rouged; a well-
shaped nose, a well-cut mouth, and very prominent, rolling,
expressive, and dyingly languishing eyes.
She was attended by Signor Colla, her maestro, and, as some assert,
her husband; but, undoubtedly, her obsequious and inseparable
companion. He is tall, thin, almost fiery when conversing; and
tolerably well furnished with gesture and grimace; id est, made up of
nothing else.
The talk was all in French or Italian, and almost all between the two
Doctors, Burney and Maty; we rest, being only auditors, except
when something striking was said upon music, or upon some
musician; and then the hot thin Italian, who is probably a
Neapolitan, jumped up, and started forth into an abrupt rhapsody,
with such agitation of voice and manner, that every limb seemed at
work almost as nimbly as his tongue.
But la Signora Agujari sat always in placid, majestic silence, when
she was not personally addressed.
Signor Colla expressed the most unbounded veneration for il Signor
Dottore Borni; whose learned character, he said, in Italy, had left him
there a name that had made it an honour to be introduced to un si
célebre homme. My father retorted the compliment upon the
Agujari; lamenting that he had missed hearing her abroad, where
her talents, then, were but rising into renown.
Nevertheless, though he naturally concluded that this visit was
designed for granting him that gratification, he was somewhat
diffident how to demand it from one who, in England, never quavers
for less than fifty guineas an air. To pave, therefore, the way to his
request, he called upon Mr. Burney and the Hettina to open the
concert with a duet.
They readily complied; and the Agujari, now, relinquished a part of
her stately solemnity, to give way, though not without palpably
marvelling that it could be called for, to the pleasure that their
performance excited; for pleasure in music is a sensation that she
seems to think ought to be held in her own gift. And, indeed, for
vocal music, Gabrielli is, avowedly, the only exception to her
universal disdain.
As Mr. Burney and the Hettina, however, attempted not to invade her
excluding prerogative, they first escaped her supercilious contempt,
and next caught her astonished attention; which soon, to our no
small satisfaction, rose to open, lively, and even vociferous rapture.
In truth, I believe, she was really glad to be surprised out of her
fatiguing dumb grandeur.
This was a moment not to be lost, and my father hinted his wishes
to Dr. Maty; Dr. Maty hinted them to Signor Colla; but Signor Colla
did not take the hint of hinting them to La Bastardella. He shrugged,
and became all gesticulation, and answered that the Signora would
undoubtedly sing to the Signor Dottore Borni; but that, at this
moment, she had a slight sore throat; and her desire, when she
performed to il Signor Dottore Borni was, si possible, he added, to
surpass herself.
We were all horribly disappointed; but Signor Colla made what
amends he could, by assuring us that we had never yet known what
singing was! “car c’est une prodêge, Messieurs et Mesdames, que la
Signora Agujari.”
My father bowed his acquiescence; and then enquired whether she
had been at the opera?
“‘O no;’ Signor Colla answered; ‘she was too much afraid of that
complaint which all her countrymen who travelled to England had so
long lamented, and which the English call catch-cold, to venture to a
theatre.’
“Agujari then condescended to inquire whether il Signor Dottore had
heard the Gabrielli?
“‘Not yet,’ he replied; ‘he waited her coming to England. He had
missed her in Italy, from her having passed that year in Sicily.’
“‘Ah Diable!’ exclaimed the Bastardini, ‘mais c’est dommage!’
“This familiar ‘Diable!’ from such majestic loftiness, had a very droll
effect.
“‘Et vous, Signora, l’avez-vous entendue?’
“‘O que non!’ answered she, quite bluffly; ‘cela n’est pas possible!’
“And we were alarmed to observe that she looked highly affronted;
though we could not possibly conjecture why, till Signor Colla, in a
whisper, represented the error of the inquiry, by saying, that two first
singers could never meet.
“‘True!’ Dr. Maty cried; ‘two suns never light us at once.’
“The Signora, to whom this was repeated in Italian, presently
recovered her placid dignity by the blaze of these two suns; and,
before she went away, was in such perfect amity with il Signor
Dottore, that she voluntarily declared she would come again, when
her sore throat was over, and chanter comme il faut.”

CONCERT.—EXTRACT THE THIRD.

“My dear Mr. Crisp,
“My father, now, bids me write for him—which I do with joy and
pride, for now, now,thus instigated, thus authorised, let me present
to you the triumphant, the unique Agujari!
“O how we all wished for you when she broke forth in her vocal
glory! The great singers of olden times, whom I have heard you so
emphatically describe, seem to have all their talents revived in this
wonderful creature. I could compare her to nothing I have ever
heard, but only to what you have heard; your Carestini, Farinelli,
Senesino, alone are worthy to be ranked with the Bastardini.
“She came with the Signor Maestro Colla, very early, to tea.
“I cannot deign to mention our party,—but it was small and good:—
though by no means bright enough to be enumerated in the same
page with Agujari.
“She frightened us a little, at first, by complaining of a cold. How we
looked at one another! Mr. Burney was called upon to begin; which
he did with even more than his usual spirit; and then—without
waiting for a petition—which nobody, not even my dear father, had
yet gathered courage to make, Agujari, the Bastardella, arose,
voluntarily arose, to sing!
“We all rose too! we seemed all ear. There was no occasion for any
other part to our persons. Had a fan,—for I won’t again give you a
pin,—fallen, I suppose we should have taken it for at least a
thunder-clap. All was hushed and rapt attention.
“Signor Colla accompanied her. She began with what she called a
little minuet of his composition.
“Her cold was not affected, for her voice, at first, was not quite
clear; but she acquitted herself charmingly. And, little as she called
this minuet, it contained difficulties which I firmly believe no other
singer in the world could have executed.
“But her great talents, and our great astonishment, were reserved
for her second song, which was taken from Metastatio’s opera of
Didone, set by Colla, ‘Non hai ragione, ingrato!’
“As this was an aria parlante, she first, in a voice softly melodious,
read us the words, that we might comprehend what she had to
express.
“It is nobly set; nobly! ‘Bravo, il Signor Maestro!’ cried my father, two
or three times. She began with a fullness and power of voice that
amazed us beyond all our possible expectations. She then lowered it
to the most expressive softness—in short, my dear Mr. Crisp, she
was sublime! I can use no other word without degrading her.
“This, and a second great song from the same opera, Son Regina,
and Son Amante, she sang in a style to which my ears have hitherto
been strangers. She unites, to her surprising and incomparable
powers of execution, and luxuriant facility and compass of voice, an
expression still more delicate—and, I had almost said, equally feeling
with that of my darling Millico, who first opened my sensations to
the melting and boundless delights of vocal melody.[6] In fact, in
Millico, it was his own sensibility that excited that of his hearers; it
was so genuine, so touching! It seemed never to want any spur from
admiration, but always to owe its excellence to its own resistless
pathos.
“Yet, with all its vast compass, and these stupendous sonorous
sounds, the voice of Agujari has a mellowness, a sweetness, that are
quite vanquishing. One can hardly help falling at her feet while one
listens! Her shake, too, is so plump, so true, so open! and, to display
her various abilities to my father, she sang in twenty styles—if
twenty there may be; for nothing is beyond her reach. In songs of
execution, her divisions were so rapid, and so brilliant, they almost
made one dizzy from breathless admiration: her cantabiles were so
fine, so rich, so moving, that we could hardly keep the tears from
our eyes. Then she gave us some accompanied recitative, with a
nobleness of accent, that made every one of us stand erect out of
respect! Then, how fascinately she condescended to indulge us with
a rondeau! though she holds that simplicity of melody beneath her;
and therefore rose from it to chaunt some church music, of the
Pope’s Chapel, in a style so nobly simple, so grandly unadorned, that
it penetrated to the inmost sense. She is just what she will: she has
the highest taste, with an expression the most pathetic; and she
executes difficulties the most wild, the most varied, the most
incredible, with just as much ease and facility as I can say—my dear
Mr. Crisp!
“Now don’t you die to come and hear her? I hope you do. O, she is
indescribable!
“Assure yourself my father joins in all this, though perhaps, if he had
time to write for himself, he might do it more Lady Grace like,
‘soberly.’ I hope she will fill up at least half a volume of his history. I
wish he would call her, The Heroine of Music!
“We could not help regretting that her engagement was at the
Pantheon, as her evidently fine ideas of acting are thrown away at a
mere concert.
At this, she made faces of such scorn and derision against the
managers, for not putting her upon the stage, that they altered her
handsome countenance almost to ugliness; and, snatching up a
music book, and opening it, and holding it full broad in her hands,
she dropt a formal courtesy, to take herself off at the Pantheon, and
said; ‘Oui! j’y suis là comme une statue! comme une petite ecolière!’
And afterwards she contemptuously added: ‘Mais, on n’aime e
guerre ici que les rondeaux!—Moi—j’abhorre ces miseres là!’
One objection, however, and a rather serious one, against her
walking the stage, is that she limps.
Do you know what they assert to be the cause of this lameness? It is
said that, while a mere baby, and at nurse in the country, she was
left rolling on the grass one evening, till she rolled herself round and
round to a pigstie; where a hideous hog welcomed her as a delicious
repast, and mangled one side of the poor infant most cruelly, before
she was missed and rescued. She was recovered with great
difficulty; but obliged to bear the insertion of a plate of silver, to
sustain the parts where the terrible swine had made a chasm; and
thence she has been called ... I forget the Italian name, but that
which has been adopted here is Silver-sides.
“You may imagine that the wags of the day do not let such a
circumstance, belonging to so famous a person, pass unmadrigalled:
Foote, my father tells us, has declared he shall impeach the custom-
house officers, for letting her be smuggled into the kingdom contrary
to law; unless her sides have been entered at the stamp office. And
Lord Sandwich has made a catch, in dialogue and in Italian, between
the infant and the hog, where the former, in a plaintive tone of
soliciting mercy, cries; ‘Caro mio Porco!’ The hog answers by a grunt.
Her piteous entreaty is renewed in the softest, tenderest treble. His
sole reply is expressed in one long note of the lowest, deepest bass.
Some of her highest notes are then ludicrously imitated to vocalize
little shrieks; and the hog, in finale, grunts out, ‘Ah! che bel
mangiar!’
“Lord Sandwich, who shewed this to my father, had, at least, the
grace to say, that he would not have it printed, lest it should get to
her knowledge, till after her return to Italy.”
The radical and scientific merits of this singular personage, and
astonishing performer, are fully expounded in the History of Music.
She left England with great contempt for the land of Rondeaux; and
never desired to visit it again.

LA GABRIELLI.
Of the person and performance of Gabrielli, the History of Music
contains a full and luminous description. She was the most
universally renowned singer of her time; for Agujari died before her
high and unexampled talents had expanded their truly wonderful
supremacy.
Yet here, also, no private detail can be written of the private
performance, or manners, of La Gabrielli, as she never visited at the
house of Dr. Burney; though she most courteously invited him to her
own; in which she received him with flattering distinction. And, as
she had the judgment to set aside, upon his visits, the airs, caprices,
coquetries, and gay insolences, of which the boundless report had
preceded her arrival in England, he found her a high-bred,
accomplished, and engaging woman of the world; or rather, he said,
woman of fashion; for there was a winning ease, nay, captivation, in
her look and air, that could scarcely, in any circle, be surpassed. Her
great celebrity, however, for beauty and eccentricity, as well as for
professional excellence, had raised such inordinate expectations
before she came out, that the following juvenile letters upon the
appearance of so extraordinary a musical personage, will be curious,
—or, at least, diverting, to lovers of musical anecdote.

CONCERT.—EXTRACT IV.
To Samuel Crisp, Esq.
Chesington.
October, 1775.
“My dear Mr. Crisp,
“‘Tis so long since I have written, that I suppose you conclude
we are all gone fortune-hunting to some other planet; but, to skip
apologies, which I know you scoff, I shall atone for my silence, by
telling you that my dear father returned from Buxton in quite
restored health, I thank God! and that his first volume is now rough-
sketched quite to the end, Preface and Dedication inclusive.
“But you are vehement, you say, to hear of Gabrielli.
“Well, so is every body else; but she has not yet sung.
“She is the subject of inquiry and discussion wherever you go. Every
one expects her to sing like a thousand angels, yet to be as
ridiculous as a thousand imps. But I believe she purposes to astonish
them all in a new way; for imagine how sober and how English she
means to become, when I tell you that she has taken a house in
Golden-square, and put a plate upon her door, on which she has had
engraven, “Mrs. Gabrielli.”
“If John Bull is not flattered by that, he must be John Bear.
“Rauzzini, meanwhile, who is to be the first serious singer, has taken
precisely the other side; and will have nothing to do with his
Johnship at all; for he has had his apartments painted a beautiful
rose-colour, with a light myrtle sprig border; and has ornamented
them with little knic-knacs and trinkets, like a fine lady’s dressing-
room.
My father dined with them both the other day, at the manager’s,
Mrs. Brookes, the author, and Mrs. Yates, the ci-devant actress.
Rauzzini sang a great many sweet airs, and very delightfully; but
Gabrielli not a note! Neither did any one presume to ask for such a
favour. Her sister was of the party also, who they say cannot sing at
all; but Gabrielli insisted upon having her engaged, and
advantageously, or refused, peremptorily, to come over.
“Nothing can exceed the impatience of people of all ranks, and all
ways of thinking, concerning this so celebrated singer. And if you do
not come to town to hear her, I shall conclude you lost to all the
Saint Cecilian powers of attraction; and that you are become as
indifferent to music, as to dancing or to horse-racing. For my own
part, if any thing should unfortunately prevent my hearing her first
performance, I shall set it down in my memory ever after, as a very
serious misfortune. Don’t laugh so, dear daddy, pray!

Written the week following.

“How I rejoice, for once, in your hard-heartedness! how ashamed I

should have been if you had come, dearest Sir, to my call! The
Gabrielli did not sing! And she let all London, and all the country too,
I believe, arrive at the theatre before it was proclaimed that she was
not to appear! Every one of our family, and of every other family
that I know,—and that I don’t know besides, were at the Opera
House at an early hour. We, who were to enter at a private door, per
favour of Mrs. Brookes, rushed past all handbills, not thinking them
worth heeding. Poor Mr. Yates, the manager, kept running from one
outlet to another, to relate the sudden desperate hoarseness of la
Signora Gabrielli; and, supplicate patience, and, moreover, credence,
—now from the box openings, now from the pit, now from the
galleries. Had he been less active, or less humble, it is thought the
theatre would have been pulled down; so prodigious was the rage of
the large assemblage; none of them in the least believing that
Gabrielli had the slightest thing the matter with her.
“My father says people do not think that singers have the capacity of
having such a thing as a cold!
“The murmurs, ‘What a shame!’—‘how scandalous!’—‘what insolent
airs!’—kept Mr. Yates upon the alert from post to post, to the utmost
stretch of his ability; though his dolorous countenance painted his
full conviction that he himself was the most seriously to be pitied of
the party; for it was clear that he said, in soliloquy, upon every one
that he sent away: ‘There goes half a guinea!—or, at the least, three
shillings,—if not five, out of my pocket!’
“We all returned home in horrible ill-humour; but solacing ourselves
with a candid determination, taken in a true spirit of liberality, that
though she should sing even better than Agujari, we would not like
her!
My father called upon the managers to know what all this meant;
and Mrs. Brookes then told him, that all that had been reported of
the extraordinary wilfulness of this spoilt child of talent and beauty,
was exceeded by her behaviour. She only sent them word that she
was out of voice, and could not sing, one hour before the house
must be opened! They instantly hurried to her to expostulate, or
rather to supplicate, for they dare neither reproach nor command;
and to represent the utter impossibility of getting up any other opera
so late; and to acknowledge their terror, even for their property,
upon the fury of an English audience, if disappointed so bluffly at the
last moment.
To this she answered very coolly, but with smiles and politeness, that
if le monde expected her so eagerly, she would dress herself, and let
the opera be performed; only, when her songs came to their
symphony, instead of singing, she would make a courtesy, and point
to her throat.
“‘You may imagine, Doctor,’ said Mrs. Brookes, ‘whether we could
trust John Bull with so easy a lady! and at the very instant his ears
were opening to hear her so vaunted performance!’

“Well, my dear Mr. Crisp, now for Saturday, and now for the real
opera. We all went again. There was a prodigious house; such a
one, for fashion at least, as, before Christmas, never yet was seen.
For though every body was afraid there would be a riot, and that
Gabrielli would be furiously hissed, from the spleen of the late
disappointment, nobody could stay away; for her whims and
eccentricities only heighten curiosity for beholding her person.
“The opera was Metastasio’s Didone, and the part for Gabrielli was
new set by Sacchini.
“In the first scene, Rauzzini and Sestini appeared with la Signora
Francesca, the sister of Gabrielli. They prepared us for the approach
of the blazing comet that burst forth in the second.
“Nothing could be more noble than her entrance. It seemed
instantaneously to triumph over her enemies, and conquer her
threateners. The stage was open to its furthest limits, and she was
discerned at its most distant point; and, for a minute or two, there
dauntlessly she stood; and then took a sweep, with a firm, but
accelerating step; and a deep, finely flowing train, till she reached
the orchestra. There she stopt, amidst peals of applause, that
seemed as if they would have shaken the foundations of the theatre.
“What think you now of John Bull?
“I had quite quivered for her, in expectation of cat-calling and
hissings; but the intrepidity of her appearance and approach,
quashed all his resentment into surprised admiration.
“She is still very pretty, though not still very young. She has small,
intelligent, sparkling features; and though she is rather short, she is
charmingly proportioned, and has a very engaging figure. All her
notions are graceful, her air is full of dignity, and her walk is
majestic.
“Though the applause was so violent, she seemed to think it so
simply her due, that she deigned not to honour it with the slightest
mark of acknowledgment, but calmly began her song.
“John Bull, however, enchained, as I believe, by the reported
vagaries of her character, and by the high delight he expected from
her talents, clapped on,—clap, clap, clap!—with such assiduous
noise, that not a note could be heard, nor a notion be started that
any note was sung. Unwilling, then,

“To waste her sweetness on the clamorous air,”

and perhaps growing a little gratified to find she could “soothe the
savage breast,” she condescended to make an Italian courtesy, i.e. a
slight, but dignified bow.
“Honest John, who had thought she would not accept his homage,
but who, through the most abrupt turn from resentment to
admiration, had resolved to bear with all her freaks, was so
enchanted by this affability, that clapping he went on, till, I have
little doubt, the skin of his battered hands went off; determining to
gain another gentle salutation whether she would or not, as an
august sign that she was not displeased with him for being so
smitten, and so humble.
“After this, he suffered the orchestra to be heard.
“Gabrielli, however, was not flattered into spoiling her flatterers.
Probably she liked the spoiling too well to make it over to them. Be
that as it may, she still kept expectation on the rack, by giving us
only recitative, till every other performer had tired our reluctant
attention.
“At length, however, came the grand bravura, ‘Son Regina, e sono
Amante.’
“Here I must stop!—Ah, Mr. Crisp! why would she take words that
had been sung by Agujari?
“Opinions are so different, you must come and judge for yourself.
Praise and censure are bandied backwards and forwards, as if they
were two shuttlecocks between two battledores. The Son Regina
was the only air of consequence that she even attempted; all else
were but bits; pretty enough, but of no force or character for a great
singer.
“How unfortunate that she should take the words, even though to
other music, that we had heard from Agujari!—Oh! She is no
Agujari!
“In short, and to come to the truth, she disappointed us all
egregiously.
However, my dear father, who beyond any body tempers his
judgment with indulgence, pronounces her a very capital singer.
“But she visibly took no pains to exert herself, and appeared so
impertinently easy, that I believe she thought it condescension
enough for us poor savage Islanders to see her stand upon the
stage, and let us look at her. Yet it must at least be owned, that the
tone of her voice, though feeble, is remarkably sweet; that her
action is judicious and graceful, and that her style and manner of
singing are masterly.”

CONCERT.—EXTRACT V.
“You reproach me, my dear Mr. Crisp, for not sending you an
account of our last two concerts. But the fact is, I have not any thing
new to tell you. The music has always been the same: the
matrimonial duets are so much à-la-mode, that no other thing in our
house is now demanded.
“But if I can write you nothing new about music—you want, I well
know you will say, to hear some conversations.
“My dear Mr. Crisp, there is, at this moment, no such thing as
conversation. There is only one question asked, meet whom you
may, namely; ‘How do you like Gabrielli?’ and only two modes,
contradictory to be sure, but very steady, of reply: either, ‘Of all
things upon earth!’ or, ‘Not the least bit in the whole world!’
“Well, now I will present you with a specimen, beginning with our
last concert but one, and arranging the persons of the drama in the
order of their actual appearance.
“But imprimis, I should tell you, that the motive to this concert was a
particular request to my father from Dr. King, our old friend, and the
chaplain to the British—something—at St. Petersburgh, that he
would give a little music to a certain mighty personage, who,
somehow or other how, must needs take, transiently at least, a front
place in future history,—namely, the famed favourite of the Empress
Catherine of Russia, Prince Orloff.
“There, my dear Mr. Crisp! what say you to seeing such a doughty
personage as that in a private house, at a private party, of a private
individual, fresh imported from the Czarina of all the Russias,—to sip
a cup of tea in St. Martin’s-Street?
“I wonder whether future historians will happen to mention this
circumstance? I am thinking of sending it to all the keepers of
records.
“But I see your rising eyebrow at this name—your start—your
disgust—yet big curiosity.
“Well, suppose the family assembled, its honoured chief in the midst
—and Tat, tat, tat, tat, at the door.

Enter Dr. Ogle, Dean of Winchester.

“Dr. Burney, after the usual ceremonies.—‘Did you hear the Gabrielli
last night, Mr. Dean?’
“The Dean.—‘No, Doctor, I made the attempt, but soon retreated;
for I hate a crowd,—as much as the ladies love it!—I beg pardon!’
bowing with a sort of civil sneer at we Fair Sex.
“My mother was entering upon a spirited defence, when—Tat, tat,
tat.

Enter Dr. King.

“He brought the compliments of Prince Orloff, with his Highness’s

apologies for being so late, but he was obliged to dine at Lord
Buckingham’s, and thence, to shew himself at Lady Harrington’s.
“As nobody thought of inquiring into Dr. King’s opinion of La
Gabrielli, conversation was at a stand, till—Tat, tat, tat, tat, too, and

“Enter Lady Edgcumbe.

“We were all introduced to her, and she was very chatty, courteous,
and entertaining.
“Dr. Burney.—‘Your Ladyship was certainly at the Opera last night?’
“Lady Edgcumbe.—‘O yes!—but I have not heard the Gabrielli! I
cannot allow that I have yet heard her.’
“Dr. Burney.—‘Your Ladyship expected a more powerful voice?’
“Lady Edgcumbe.—‘Why n-o—not much. The shadow can tell what
the substance must be; but she cannot have acquired this great
reputation throughout Europe for nothing. I therefore repeat that I
have not yet heard her. She must have had a cold.—But, for me—I
have heard Mingotti!—I have heard Montecelli!—I have heard
Mansuoli!—and I shall never hear them again!’
“The Dean.—‘But, Lady Edgcumbe, may not Gabrielli have great
powers, and yet have too weak a voice for so large a theatre?’
“Lady Edgcumbe.—‘Our theatre, Mr. Dean, is of no size to what she
has been accustomed to abroad. But,—Dr. Burney, I have also heard
the Agujari!’
“Hettina, Fanny, Susanna.—‘Oh! Agujari!’ (All three speaking with
clasped hands.)
“Dr. Burney (laughing).—‘Your ladyship darts into all their hearts by
naming Agujari! However, I have hopes you will hear her again.’
“Lady Edgcumbe.—‘O, Dr. Burney! bring her but to the Opera,—and
I shall grow crazy!’
“I assure you, my dear Mr. Crisp, we all longed to embrace her
ladyship. And she met our sympathy with a good-humour full of
pleasure. My father added, that we all doated upon Agujari.
“Lady Edgcumbe.—‘O! she is incomparable!—Mark but the
difference, Dr. Burney; by Gabrielli, Rauzzini seems to have a great
voice;—by Agujari, he seemed to have that of a child.’—
“Tat, tat, tat, tat, too.

“Enter The Hon. Mr. and Mrs. Brudenel.

“Mr. Brudenell,[7] commonly called ‘His Honour,’ from high birth, I

suppose, without title, or from some quaint old cause that nobody
knows who has let me into its secret, is tall and stiff, and strongly in
the ton of the present day; which is anything rather than
macaroniism; for it consists of unbounded freedom and ease, with a
short, abrupt, dry manner of speech; and in taking the liberty to ask
any question that occurs upon other people’s affairs and opinions;
even upon their incomes and expences;—nay, even upon their age!
“Did you ever hear of any thing so shocking?
“I do not much mind it now; but, when I grow older, I intend
recommending to have this part of their code abolished.
“Mrs. Brudenel is very obliging and pleasing; and of as great fame as
a lady singer, as Lady Edgcumbe is as a first rate lady player.
“The usual question being asked of La Gabrielli;
“_Mrs. Brudenel._—‘O, Lady Edgcumbe and I are entirely of the
same opinion; we agree that we have not yet heard her.’
“_Lady Edgcumbe._—‘The ceremony of her quitting the theatre after
the opera is over, is extremely curious. First goes a man in livery to
clear the way; then follows the sister; then the Gabrielli herself.
Then, a little foot-page, to bear her train; and, lastly, another man,
who carries her muff, in which is her lap-dog.’
“Mr. Brudenel.—‘But where is Lord March all this time?’
“Lady Edgcumbe (laughing).—‘Lord March? O,——he, you know, is
First Lord of the Bedchamber!’—
“Tat, tat, tat, tat.

“Enter M. le Baron de Demidoff.

“He is a Russian nobleman, who travels with Prince Orloff; and he

preceded his Highness with fresh apologies, and a desire that the
concert might not wait, as he would only shew himself at Lady
Harrington’s, and hasten hither.
“My father then attended Lady Edgcumbe to the Library, and Mr.
Burney took his place at the harpsichord.
“We all followed. He was extremely admired; but I have nothing new
to tell you upon that subject.
“Then enter Mr. Chamier. Then followed several others; and then

“Enter Mr. Harris, of Salisbury.

“Susan and I quite delighted in his sight, he is so amiable to talk

with, and so benevolent to look at. Lady Edgcumbe rose to meet
him, saying he was her particular old friend. He then placed himself
by Susan and me, and renewed acquaintance in the most pleasing
manner possible. I told him we were all afraid he would be tired to
death of so much of one thing, for we had nothing to offer him but
again the duet. ‘That is the very reason I solicited to come,’ he
answered; ‘I was so much charmed the last time, that I begged Dr.
Burney to give me a repetition of the same pleasure.’
“‘Then—of course, the opera? The Gabrielli?’
“Mr. Harris declared himself her partizan.
“Lady Edgcumbe warmed up ardently for Agajari.
“Mr. Dean.—‘But pray, Dr. Burney, why should not these two
melodious signoras sing together, that we might judge them fairly?’
“Dr. Burney.—‘Oh! the rivalry would be too strong. It would create a
musical war. It would be Cæsar and Pompey.’
“Lady Edgcumbe.—‘Pompey the Little, then, I am sure would be la
Gabrielli!’

“Enter Lord Bruce.

“He is a younger brother not only of the Duke of Montagu, but of his
Honour Brudenel. How the titles came to be so awkwardly arranged
in this family is no affair of mine; so you will excuse my sending you
to the Herald’s Office, if you want that information, my dear Mr.
Crisp; though as you are one of the rare personages who are skilled
in every thing yourself,—at least so says my father;—and he is a
Doctor, you know!—I dare say you will genealogize the matter to me
at once, when next I come to dear Chesington.
“He is tall, thin, and plain, but remarkably sensible, agreeable, and
polite; as, I believe, are very generally all those keen looking
Scotchmen; for Scotch, not from his accent, but his name, I
conclude him of course. Can Bruce be other than Scotch? They are
far more entertaining, I think, as well as informing, taken in the
common run, than we silentious English; who, taken en masse, are
tolerably dull.
“The Opera?—the Gabrielli?—were now again brought forward. Lady
Edgcumbe, who is delightfully music mad, was so animated, that she
was quite the life of the company.
“At length—Tat, tat, tat, tat, tat, tat, tat, tat, too!

“Enter His Highness Prince Orloff.

“Have you heard the dreadful story of the thumb, by which this
terrible Prince is said to have throttled the late Emperor of Russia,
Peter, by suddenly pressing his windpipe while he was drinking? I
hope it is not true; and Dr. King, of whom, while he resided in
Russia, Prince Orloff was the patron, denies the charge.
Nevertheless, it is so currently reported, that neither Susan nor I
could keep it one moment from our thoughts; and we both shrunk
from him with secret horror, heartily wishing him in his own Black
Sea.
“His sight, however, produced a strong sensation, both in those who
believed, and those who discredited this disgusting barbarity; for
another story, not perhaps, of less real, though of less sanguinary
guilt, is not a tale of rumour, but a crime of certainty; namely, that
he is the first favourite of the cruel inhuman Empress—if it be true
that she connived at this horrible murder.
“His Highness was immediately preceded by another Russian
nobleman, whose name I have forgot; and followed by a noble
Hessian, General Bawr.
“Prince Orloff is of stupendous stature, something resembling Mr.
Bruce. He is handsome, tall, fat, upright, magnificent. His dress was
superb. Besides the blue garter, he had a star of diamonds of
prodigious brilliancy, a shoulder knot of the same lustre and value,
and a picture of the Empress hung about his neck, set round with
diamonds of such brightness and magnitude, that, when near the
light, they were too dazzling for the eye. His jewels, Dr. King says,
are estimated at one hundred thousand pounds sterling.
“His air and address are shewy, striking, and assiduously courteous.
He had a look that frequently seemed to say, ‘I hope you observe
that I come from a polished court?—I hope you take note that I am
no Cossack?’—Yet, with all this display of commanding affability, he
seems, from his native taste and humour, ‘agreeably addicted to
pleasantry.’ He speaks very little English, but knows French perfectly.
“His introduction to my father, in which Dr. King pompously figured,
passed in the drawing-room. The library was so crowded, that he
could only show himself at the door, which was barely high enough
not to discompose his prodigious toupee.
“He bowed to Mr. Chamier, then my next neighbour, whom he had
somewhere met; but I was so impressed by the shocking rumours of
his horrible actions, that involuntarily I drew back even from a bow
of vicinity; murmuring to Mr. Chamier, ‘He looks so potent and
mighty, I do not like to be near him!’
“‘He has been less unfortunate,’ answered Mr. Chamier, archly,
‘elsewhere; such objection has not been made to him by all ladies!’
“Lord Bruce, who knew, immediately rose to make way for him, and
moved to another end of the room. The Prince instantly held out his
vast hand, in which, if he had also held a cambric handkerchief, it
must have looked like a white flag on the top of a mast,—so much
higher than the most tip-top height of every head in the room was
his spread out arm, as he exclaimed, ‘Ah! mi lord me fuit!’
“His Honour, then, rising also, with a profound reverence, offered his
seat to his Highness; but he positively refused to accept it, and
declared, that if Mr. Brudenel would not be seated, he would himself
retire; and seeing Mr. Brudenel demur, still begging his Highness to
take the chair, he cried with a laugh, but very peremptorily, ‘Non,
non, Monsieur! Je ne le veux pas! Je suis opiniatre, moi;—un peu
comme Messieurs les Anglais!’
“Mr. Brudenel then re-seated himself: and the corner of a form
appearing to be vacant, from the pains taken by poor Susan to
shrink away from Mr. Orloff, his Highness suddenly dropped down
upon it his immense weight, with a force—notwithstanding a
palpable and studied endeavour to avoid doing mischief—that
threatened his gigantic person with plumping upon the floor; and
terrified all on the opposite side of the form with the danger of
visiting the ceiling.
“Perceiving Susan strive, though vainly, from want of space, to glide
further off from him, and struck, perhaps, by her sweet
countenance, ‘Ah, ha!’ he cried, ‘Je tiens ici, Je vois, une petite
Prisonnière?!’
“Charlotte, blooming like a budding little Hebe, actually stole into a
corner, from affright at the whispered history of his thumb ferocity.
“Mr. Chamier, who now probably had developed what passed in my
mind, contrived, very comically, to disclose his similar sentiment; for,
making a quiet way to my ear, he said, in a low voice, ‘I wish Dr.
Burney had invited Omiah here tonight, instead of Prince Orloff!’
Meaning, no doubt, of the two exotics, he should have preferred the
most innocent!
“The grand duet of Müthel was now called for, and played. But I can
tell you nothing extra of the admiration it excited. Your Hettina
looked remarkably pretty; and, added to the applause given to the
music, every body had something to observe upon the singularity of
the performers being husband and wife. Prince Orloff was witty quite
to facetiousness; sarcastically marking something beyond what he
said, by a certain ogling, half cynical, half amorous, cast of his eyes;
and declaring he should take care to initiate all the foreign
academies of natural philosophy, in the secret of the harmony that
might be produced by such nuptial concord.
“The Russian nobleman who accompanied Prince Orloff, and who
knew English, they told us, so well that he was the best interpreter
for his Highness in his visits, gave us now a specimen of his
proficiency; for, clapping his fore finger upon a superfine snuffbox,
he exclaimed, when the duet was finished, ‘Ma foi, dis is so pretty as
never I hear in my life!’
“General Bawr, also, to whom Mr. Harris directed my attention, was
greatly charmed. He is tall, and of stern and martial aspect. ‘He is a
man,’ said Mr. Harris, ‘to be looked at, from his courage, conduct,
and success during the last Russian war; when, though a Hessian by
birth, he was a Lieutenant General in the service of the Empress of
Russia; and obtained the two military stars, which you now see him
wear on each side, by his valour.’
“But the rapture of Lady Edgcumbe was more lively than that of any
other. ‘Oh, Doctor Burney,’ she cried, ‘you have set me a madding! I
would willingly practice night and day to be able to perform in such
a manner. I vow I would rather hear that extraordinary duet played
in that extraordinary manner, than twenty operas!’
“Her ladyship was now introduced to Prince Orloff, whom she had
not happened to meet with before; and they struck up a most
violent flirtation together. She invited him to her house, and begged
leave to send him a card. He accepted the invitation, but begged
leave to fetch the card in person. She should be most happy, she
said, to receive him, for though she had but a small house, she had
a great ambition. And so they went on, in gallant courtesie, till, once
again, the question was brought back of the opera, and the Gabrielli.
“The Prince declared that she had not by any means sang as well as
at St. Petersburgh; and General Bawr protested that, had he shut his
eyes, he should not again have known her.
“Then followed, to vary the entertainment, singing by Mrs. Brudenel.
“Prince Orloff inquired very particularly of Dr. King, who we four
young female Burneys were; for we were all dressed alike, on
account of our mourning; and when Dr. King answered, ‘Dr. Burney’s
daughters;’ she was quite astonished; for he had not thought our
dear father, he said, more than thirty years of age; if so much.
“Mr. Harris, in a whisper, told me he wished some of the ladies would
desire to see the miniature of the Empress a little nearer; the
monstrous height of the Prince putting it quite out of view to his old
eyes and short figure; and being a man, he could not, he said,
presume to ask such an indulgence as that of holding it in his own
hands.
“Delighted to do any thing for this excellent Mr. Harris, and quite at
my ease with poor prosing Dr. King, I told him the wish of Mr. Harris.
“Dr. King whispered the desire to M. de Demidoff; M. de Demidoff
did the same to General de Bawr; and General de Bawr dauntlessly
made the petition to the Prince, in the name of The Ladies.
“The Prince laughed, rather sardonically; yet with ready good-
humour complied; telling the General, pretty much sans ceremonie,
to untie the ribbon round his neck, and give the picture into the
possession of The Ladies.
“He was very gallant and debonnaire upon the occasion, entreating
they would by no means hurry themselves; yet his smile, as his eye
sharply followed the progress, from hand to hand, of the miniature,
had a suspicious cast of investigating whether it would be worth his
while to ask any favour of them in return! and through all the superb
magnificence of his display of courtly manners, a little bit of the
Cossack, methought, broke out, when he desired to know whether
The Ladies wished for any thing else? declaring, with a smiling bow,
and rolling, languishing, yet half contemptuous eyes, that, if The
Ladies would issue their commands, they should strip him entirely!
“You may suppose, after that, nobody asked for a closer view of any
more of his ornaments! The good, yet unaffectedly humorous
philosopher of Salisbury, could not help laughing, even while actually
blushing at it, that his own curiosity should have involved The Ladies
in this supercilious sort of sarcastic homage.
“There was hardly any looking at the picture of the Empress for the
glare of the diamonds. One of them, I really believe, was as big as a
nutmeg: though I am somewhat ashamed to undignify my subject
by so culinary a comparison.
“When we were all satisfied, the miniature was restored by General
Bawr to the Prince, who took it with stately complacency;
condescendingly making a smiling bow to each fair female who had
had possession of it; and receiving from her in return a lowly
courtesy.
“Mr. Harris, who was the most curious to see the Empress, because
his son, Sir James, [8] was, or is intended to be, minister at her
court, had slyly looked over every shoulder that held her; but would
not venture, he archly whispered, to take the picture in his own
hands, lest he should be included, by the Prince, amongst The
Ladies, as an old woman!
“Have you had enough of this concert, my dear Mr. Crisp? I have
given it in detail, for the humour of letting you see how absorbing of
the public voice is La Gabrielli: and, also, for describing to you Prince
Orloff; a man who, when time lets out facts, and drives in mysteries,
must necessarily make a considerable figure, good or bad—but
certainly not indifferent,—in European history. Besides, I want your
opinion, whether there is not an odd and striking resemblance in
general manners, as well as in Herculean strength and height, in this
Siberian Prince and his Abyssinian Majesty?”

CONCERT.—EXTRACT THE SIXTH.

“My dear Mr. Crisp.
“I must positively talk to you again of the sweet Baroness Deiden,
though I am half afraid to write you any more details of our Duet
Concerts, lest they should tire your patience as much as my fingers.
But you will be pleased to hear that they are still à-la-mode. We
have just had another at the request of M. le Comte de Guignes, the
French ambassador, delivered by Lady Edgcumbe; who not only
came again her lively self, but brought her jocose and humorous
lord; who seems as sportive and as fond of a hoax as any tar who
walks the quarter-deck; and as cleverly gifted for making, as he is
gaily disposed for enjoying one. They were both full of good-humour
and spirits, and we liked them amazingly. They have not a grain of
what you style the torpor of the times.
Lady Edgcumbe was so transported by Müthel, that when her lord
emitted a little cough, though it did not find vent till he had half
stifled himself to check it, she called out, ‘What do you do here, my
Lord, coughing? We don’t want that accompaniment.’ I wish you
could have seen how drolly he looked. I am sure he was full primed
with a ready repartee. But her ladyship was so intently in ecstacy,
and he saw us all round so intently admiring her enthusiasm, that I
verily believe he thought it would not be safe to interrupt the
performance, even with the best witticism of his merry imagination.
“We had also, for contrast, the new Groom of the Stole, Lord
Ashburnham, with his key of gold dangling from his pocket. He is
elegant and pleasing, though silent and reserved; and just as
scrupulously high-bred, as Lord Edgcumbe is frolicsomely facetious.
“But, my dear Mr. Crisp, we had again the bewitching Danish
ambassadress, the Baroness Deiden, and her polite husband, the
Baron. She is really one of the most delightful creatures in this lower
world, if she is not one of the most deceitful. We were more
charmed with her than ever. I wonder whether Ophelia was like her?
or, rather, I have no doubt but she was just such another. So
musical, too! The Danish Court was determined to show us that our
great English bard knew what he was about, when he drew so
attractive a Danish female. The Baron seems as sensible of her merit
as if he were another Hamlet himself—though that is no man I ever
yet saw! She speaks English very prettily; as she can’t help, I
believe, doing whatever she sets about. She said to my father, ‘How
good you were, Sir, to remember us! We are very much oblige
indeed.’ And then to my sister, ‘I have heard no music since I was
here last!’
“We had also Lord Barrington, brother to my father’s good friend
Daines, and to the excellent Bishop of Salisbury.[9]. His lordship, as
you know, is universally reckoned clever, witty, penetrating, and
shrewd. But he bears this high character any where rather than in
his air and look, which by no means pronounce his superiority of
their own accord. Doubtless, however, he has ‘that within which
passeth shew;’ for there is only one voice as to his talents and merit.
“His Honour, Mr. Brudenel,—but I will not again run over the names
of the duplicates from the preceding concerts. I will finish my list
with Lord Sandwich.
“And most welcome he made himself to us, in entering the drawing-
room, by giving intelligence that he had just heard from the
circumnavigators, and that our dear James was well.
“Lord Sandwich is a tall, stout man, and looks as furrowed and
weather-proof as any sailor in the navy; and, like most of the old set
of that brave tribe, he has good nature and joviality marked in every
feature. I want to know why he is called Jemmy Twitcher in the
newspapers? Do pray tell me that?
“But why do I prepare for closing my account, before I mention him
for whom it was opened? namely, M. le Comte de Guignes, the
French ambassador.
“He was looked upon, when he first came over, as one of the
handsomest of men, as well as one of the most gallant; and his
conquests amongst the fair dames of the court were in proportion
with those two circumstances. I hope, therefore, now,—as I am no
well-wisher to these sort of conquerors,—that his defeats, in future,
will counter-balance his victories; for he is grown so fat, and looks so
sleek and supine, that I think the tender tribe will hence-forward be
in complete safety, and may sing, in full chorus, while viewing him,

“‘Sigh no more, Ladies, sigh no more!’

“He was, however, very civil, and seemed well entertained; though
he left an amusing laugh behind him from the pomposity of his exit;
for not finding, upon quitting the music room, with an abrupt French
leave, half a dozen of our lackeys waiting to anticipate his orders;
half a dozen of those gentlemen not being positively at hand; he
indignantly and impatiently called out aloud: ‘Mes gens! où sont mes
gens? Que sont ils donc devenu? Mes gens! Je dis! Mes gens!’
“Previously to this, the duet had gone off with its usual eclât.
“Lord Sandwich then expressed an earnest desire to hear the
Baroness play: but she would not listen to him, and seemed vexed
to be entreated, saying to my sister Hettina, who joined his lordship
in the solicitation, ‘Oh yes! it will be very pretty, indeed, after all this
so fine music, to see me play a little minuet!’
“Lord Sandwich applied to my father to aid his petition; but my
father, though he wished himself to hear the Baroness again, did not
like to tease her, when he saw her modesty of refusal was real; and
consequently, that overcoming it would be painful. I am sure I could
not have pressed her for the world! But Lord Sandwich, who, I
suppose, is heart of oak, was not so scrupulous, and hovered over
her, and would not desist; though turning her head away from him,
and waving her hand to distance him, she earnestly said: ‘I beg—I
beg, my lord!—’
“Lord Barrington then, who, we found, was an intimate acquaintance
of the ambassador’s, attempted to seize the waving hand; conjuring
her to consent to let him lead her to the instrument.
“But she hastily drew in her hand, and exclaimed: ‘Fie, fie, my lord
Barrington!—so ill natured!—I should not think was you! Besides,
you have heard me so often.’
“‘Madame la Baronne,’ replied he, with vivacity, ‘I want you to play
precisely because Lord Sandwich has not heard you, and because I
have!’
“All, however, was in vain, till the Baron came forward, and said to
her, ‘Ma chère—you had better play something—anything—than give
such a trouble.’
“She instantly arose, saying with a little reluctant shrug, but
accompanied by a very sweet smile, ‘Now this looks just as if I was
like to be so much pressed!’
“She then played a slow movement of Abel’s, and a minuet of
Schobert’s, most delightfully, and with so much soul and expression,
that your Hettina could hardly have played them better.
“She is surely descended in a right line from Ophelia! only, now I
think of it, Ophelia dies unmarried. That is horribly unlucky. But, oh
Shakespeare!—all-knowing Shakespeare!—how came you to picture
just such female beauty and sweetness and harmony in a Danish
court, as was to be brought over to England so many years after, in
a Danish ambassadress?
“But I have another no common thing to tell you. Do you know that
my Lord Barrington, from the time that he addressed the Baroness
Deiden, and that her manner shewed him to stand fair in her good
opinion, wore quite a new air? and looked so high-bred and
pleasing, that I could not think what he had done with his original
appearance; for it then had as good a Viscount mien as one might
wish to see on a summer’s day. Now how is this, my dear Daddy?
You, who deride all romance, tell me how it could happen? I know
you formerly were acquainted with Lord Barrington, and liked him
very much—pray, was it in presence of some fair Ophelia that you
saw him?”

MRS. SHERIDAN.
But highest, at this season, in the highest circles of society, from the
triple bewitchment of talents, beauty, and fashion, stood the fair
Linley Sheridan; who now gave concerts at her own house, to which
entrance was sought not only by all the votaries of taste, and
admirers of musical excellence, but by all the leaders of ton, and
their numerous followers, or slaves; with an ardour for admittance
that was as eager for beholding as for listening to this matchless
warbler; so astonishingly in concord were the charms of person,
manners, and voice, for the eye and for the ear, of this resistless
syren.
To these concerts Dr. Burney was frequently invited; where he had
the pleasure, while enjoying the spirit of her conversation, the
winning softness of her address, and the attraction of her smiles, to
return her attention to him by the delicacy of accompaniment with
which he displayed her vocal perfection.

HISTORY OF MUSIC.
In the midst of this energetic life of professional exertion, family
avocations, worldly prosperity, and fashionable distinction, Dr.
Burney lost not one moment that he could purloin either from its
pleasures or its toils, to dedicate to what had long become the
principal object of his cares,—his musical work.
Music, as yet, whether considered as a science or as an art, had
been written upon only in partial details, to elucidate particular
points of theory or of practice; but no general plan, or history of its
powers, including its rise, progress, uses, and changes, in all the
known nations of the world, had ever been attempted: though, at
the time Dr. Burney set out upon his tours, to procure or to enlarge
materials for such a work, it singularly chanced that there started up
two fellow-labourers in the same vineyard, one English, the other
Italian, who were working in their studies upon the same idea—
namely, Sir John Hawkins, and Padre Martini. A French musical
historian, also, M. de La Borde, took in hand the same subject, by a
striking coincidence, nearly at the same period.
Each of their labours has now been long before the public; and each,
as usual, has received the mede of pre-eminence, according to the
sympathy of its readers with the several views of the subject given
by the several authors.
The impediments to all progressive expedition that stood in the way
of this undertaking with Dr. Burney, were so completely beyond his
control, that, with his utmost efforts and skill, it was not till the year
1776, which was six years after the publication of his plan, that he
was able to bring forth his

HISTORY OF MUSIC.
And even then, it was the first volume only that he could publish;
nor was it till six years later followed by the second.
Greatly, however, to a mind like his, was every exertion repaid by the
honour of its reception. The subscription, by which he had been
enabled to sustain its numerous expences in books, travels, and
engravings, had brilliantly been filled with the names of almost all
that were most eminent in literature, high in rank, celebrated in the
arts, or leading in the fashion of the day. And while the lovers of
music received with eagerness every account of that art in which
they delighted; scholars, and men of letters in general, who hitherto
had thought of music but as they thought of a tune that might be
played or sung from imitation, were astonished at the depth of
research, and almost universality of observation, reading, and
meditation, which were now shewn to be requisite for such an
undertaking: while the manner in which, throughout the work, such
varied matter was displayed, was so natural, so spirited, and so
agreeable, that the History of Music not only awakened respect and
admiration for its composition; it excited, also, an animated desire,
in almost the whole body of its readers, to make acquaintance with
its author.
The History of Music was dedicated, by permission, to her Majesty,
Queen Charlotte; and was received with even peculiar graciousness
when it was presented, at the drawing-room, by the author. The
Queen both loved and understood the subject; and had shewn the
liberal exemption of her fair mind from all petty nationality, in the
frank approbation she had deigned to express of the Doctor’s Tours;
notwithstanding they so palpably displayed his strong preference of
the Italian vocal music to that of the German.
So delighted was Doctor Burney by the condescending manner of
the Queen’s acceptance of his musical offering, that he never
thenceforward failed paying his homage to their Majesties, upon the
two birth-day anniversaries of those august and beloved Sovereigns.

STREATHAM.
Fair was this period in the life of Dr. Burney. It opened to him a new
region of enjoyment, supported by honours, and exhilarated by
pleasures supremely to his taste: honours that were literary,
pleasures that were intellectual. Fair was this period, though not yet
was it risen to its acme: a fairer still was now advancing to his
highest wishes, by free and frequent intercourse with the man in the
world to whose genius and worth united, he looked up the most
reverentially—Dr. Johnson.
And this intercourse was brought forward through circumstances of
such infinite agreeability, that no point, however flattering, of the
success that led him to celebrity, was so welcome to his honest and
honourable pride, as being sought for at Streatham, and his
reception at that seat of the Muses.
Mrs. Thrale, the lively and enlivening lady of the mansion, was then
at the height of the glowing renown which, for many years, held her
in stationary superiority on that summit.
Welcome to our website – the ideal destination for book lovers and
knowledge seekers. With a mission to inspire endlessly, we offer a
vast collection of books, ranging from classic literary works to
specialized publications, self-development books, and children's
literature. Each book is a new journey of discovery, expanding
knowledge and enriching the soul of the reade

Our website is not just a platform for buying books, but a bridge
connecting readers to the timeless values of culture and wisdom. With
an elegant, user-friendly interface and an intelligent search system,
we are committed to providing a quick and convenient shopping
experience. Additionally, our special promotions and home delivery
services ensure that you save time and fully enjoy the joy of reading.

Let us accompany you on the journey of exploring knowledge and

personal growth!

[Link]