Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Magic Carpet
Crochet Pattern
This pattern was designed by Chiara Cremon aka
@chiacrafts, who hopes you’ll enjoy it a lot!
1
Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
A message for you!
Hello dear fellow crocheters! My name is Chiara (pronounced "Kiara," as I'm Italian), and I'm the
girl behind the Instagram account @chiacrafts!
In the very beginning, crochet was nothing more than a Sunday hobby for me: I just wanted
something to keep my mind busy and far away from disaster fantasies. When I first opened the
Instagram page @chiacrafts, I honestly had no expectations, and mostly did it so I could showcase
my art without individually targeting friends or family members ^^”. Instead, to my surprise, a
lovely and supportive community of fellow
crafters showed up!!! Many of you were interested
in reproducing my designs and asked for patterns,
which prompted me to start documenting my
process and sharing them :)
Today, I continue to create new designs with the
goal of making them interesting and engaging.
Although they may be challenging, my aim is to
provide the best possible support and guidance to
make it a fun and rewarding experience!
I hope you’ll have fun with this one :)
Thank you for your love and support. You're all a
great source of motivation for me!
Cheers,
Chiara
2
Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
License
Hello, and thank you for trying out this pattern!
This is a crochet pattern for sale, exclusively available in my Ravelry shop (you find the link in the
header of this document). If you found it anywhere else, you're reading a stolen copy, not
authorized for use or redistribution.
This pattern is intended for personal use only. Please do not copy or redistribute this pattern
in any form, and do not translate it without permission. Also, do not reuse my pictures.
If you share your work online, it would be great if you could credit me by adding "Pattern by
@chiacrafts" and #chiacraftspatterns. If you don't, I would still love to receive a picture of your
result! :D
Coming up with a crochet pattern doesn't come without its own challenges and requires quite an
effort! I would love to share all my patterns for free but, considering the amount of time and
energy I invest in them, that wouldn't be possible ;)
Please respect my copyright and hard work, and help support me by purchasing patterns
through authorized channels.
Got questions?
If you have any questions, you can contact me via direct message on Instagram or by email.
Please note that I do not answer questions on Ravelry, but I'm always happy to help in other
ways.
3
Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Materials
★ Primary crochet hook (see Yarn and crochet hook) - mine is 2.0 mm
★ Tapestry needle
★ Yarn all in the same size of the following colors. I used YarnArt Jeans, which is a Sport yarn:
Yarn and crochet hook
When working on a tapestry crochet project, you use a primary crochet hook that is one size
smaller than indicated on the skein. This is done to prevent the color you're carrying within the
stitches from being visible through the crochet mesh.
I used a sport yarn for which the recommended crochet hook size is 3.0-3.5 mm and I worked it
with a 2.0 mm crochet hook.
Example: If you use a yarn for which the recommended size is 3.5-4.5 mm, you should use a 2.5
mm hook as a primary hook.
Dimensions
Using the yarn and hook size indicated in the materials section, the dimensions of the finished
product are about 9x6 cm.
4
Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Guidelines
Working in rows
This project is worked in rows.
When working in rows, you create a 2D shape proceeding zig-zag. At the end of each row you
make a turning chain, turn your work and proceed in the opposite direction, working the first stitch
of the new row in the last stitch of the previous row.
YU vs YO stitches
When working single crochets in amigurumi, I typically use the yarn under (YU or "x" stitch)
method when working in rounds and the yarn over (YO or "v" stitch) method when working in
rows. These techniques do not impact your work significantly other than a difference in gauge, and
the visual difference is only noticeable when working in the round (see the picture below). You can
find more information about it in the dedicated post on my Instagram profile.
YO - “v” stitch YU - “x” stitch
For this particular project, I have opted to work in rows using the YU stitch. This stitch creates a
slightly more compact result, effectively concealing the yarn carried through the stitches. However,
feel free to choose the YU or YO method based on your personal preference and comfort level.
5
Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Color change
The color change should always be done by yarning over with the new color on the second step of
the previous stitch. If the pattern says to make 1 sc red and then 3 sc white, when making the red
sc you should: [Step 1] Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over or under with red, and pull
up a loop; then [Step 2] yarn over with white and pull through both loops on the hook. Then
proceed making the 3 white sc.
Abbreviations
* These are US standard abbreviations + something I’ve made up to ease up the reading.
★ Row = row
★ st = stitch
★ sc = single crochet
★ ch = chain
★ CY-PO = cut the yarn and pull it out from the stitch
★ tch = turning chain
6
Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Technique
In the following section, I'll give you a quick overview of the concepts and techniques you need to
successfully carry out this project. It's essential to get acquainted with them before diving into the
fun part!
If you're already a crochet pro, these tips should be enough to tackle the pattern, even if you're
not an expert in tapestry or intarsia crochet just yet.
If you need some extra guidance, I recommend searching for online tutorials about these
techniques and returning to this pattern later on. Unfortunately, I can't create a step-by-step video
for this Magic Carpet: the pattern is too intricate, it would end up being very long and overly
complicated :). However, here are some links to videos created by other talented designers which
really helped me getting started: this one and its sequel are really good as a beginner level
introduction.
Tapestry and intarsia crochet
Intarsia is a technique that involves using separate bobbins or yarn balls for each color section. It
allows for seamless transitions and a super clean wrong side, almost identical to the right side
(Yay!). However, as the number of color blocks increases, so does the potential for tangled,
inextricable bobbins (Yikes!).
Tapestry crochet is a technique where the non-working color is carried within the stitch: therefore,
you only need one bobbin per color (Wow!). However, while this solves the bobbins entanglement
issue, it tends to result in a less pristine finish (Darn!). Plus, it's not the best choice when working
with more than two colors at a time (Bummer!).
For this project, we'll be working in rows and we’ll be using a combination of intarsia and tapestry.
This means we'll keep bobbins at hand, but we'll also be carrying the yarn through certain
sections. It's the perfect blend to achieve the desired result!
The process in a nutshell
This is a high-level overview of our approach. Detailed instructions on joining the yarn, carrying it,
and changing colors are provided in the following section. Immediately after the color chart, I will
also guide you step by step through the initial rows :)
You’ll begin by preparing 10 yarn bobbins of different lengths and colors. You will alternate
between bobbins to create different color blocks. In certain instances, you may need to use the
same bobbin for two different color blocks, in which case you will carry the yarn through until the
next block.
7
Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
The pattern begins with a chain and continues by working rows of single crochet on top of it.
At the end of each row, you work a turning chain (tch) and turn your work.
Although the work is in rows, we will designate a wrong and a right side. On the wrong side, you
will carry the yarn and hide the tails, resulting in a slightly less pretty look compared to the right
side (though still quite similar!).
Each time you have to make a color change, you’ll either join a new bobbin (see Join a new color)
or pick an already joined one, which will be hanging from the previous row a few stitches away.
You’re going to switch to the new bobbin in different ways, depending on where its tail is
positioned (see Color change).
After a color change, if you won't be using the old bobbin again in the current row, you simply drop
it and continue working with the new color. However, if you intend to use that bobbin again within
the current row, you should carry it through (see Carry the yarn). If the bobbin won't be used in the
next row, you can cut it.
At the end, on the wrong side, you will hide all the remaining tails inside a color block worked in
the same color.
Right and wrong side
We define a right and wrong side for the crochet work: the wrong side is used to store the tails left
and carry the unused colors.
Since you're working in rows, each face could potentially be the right or wrong one.
In this pattern, we're basing it off the very first row of single crochet (Row1): its right side will be
the right side of the entire crochet work.
Working “on the right side” means you’re working with the right side facing you. Working “on the
wrong side” means you’re working with the wrong side facing you,
If you're right-handed, you're working “on the right side” if the starting tail is on your left. And, if
you're left-handed, you're working “on the right side” if the starting tail is on your right.
8
Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Join a new color
Join a new color - right side
If you need to introduce a new bobbin when working on the right side of your crochet work,
proceed as follows.
When working on the second step of the previous stitch, place the end tail of the new color (red)
on the wrong side, yarn over, and pull it through the stitch.
Join a new color - wrong side
If you need to introduce a new bobbin when working on the wrong side of your crochet work,
proceed as follows.
When working on the second step of the previous stitch, first bring the old color tail (mustard)
forward. Then, place the end tail of the new color (red) on the wrong side, yarn over, and pull it
through the stitch.
9
Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Color change
The method to be used to perform a color change when the new bobbin is already in use in the
previous row can vary depending on the position of the color change in relation to the last stitch
worked with that bobbin (i.e. in relation to where the tail is hanging).
Note: You’ll see that before changing color on the wrong side you always bring the old color tail
forward. You might forget about it at first… you’ll get used to it with time :)
Color change - on top - right side
When working on the right side, to perform a color change on top of the last stitch worked with
the new bobbin, all you have to do is yarn over with the new color (red) on the second step of the
previous stitch.
Color change - before - right side
When working on the right side, to perform a color change one or more stitches before the last
stitch worked with the new bobbin proceed as follows.
Yarn over with the new color (red) on the second step of the previous stitch, stretching the yarn
loop for several stitches.
You’re going to work over this loop until the stitch right before the last one worked with that
bobbin, to cover it up.
10
Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Color change - after - right side
When working on the right side, to perform a color change one or more stitches after the last
stitch worked with the new bobbin proceed as follows.
You should go back to the last stitch worked with that bobbin (red in this case), and start carrying
it through till it’s time to change color. Then, yarn over with the new color.
Color change - on top - wrong side
When working on the wrong side, to perform a color change on top of the last stitch worked
with the new bobbin proceed as follows.
On the second step of the previous stitch, you should bring the old color tail (mustard) forward
(IMPORTANT!!!), and yarn over with the new color (red).
You will notice that you have to stretch the loop over your work a little, creating a visible mark. To
hide it, work over it when making the next stitch (in other words, when working the first stitch with
the new color, you should insert your hook both below this mark and inside the next stitch).
11
Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Color change - before - wrong side
When working on the wrong side, to perform a color change one or more stitches before the last
stitch worked with the new bobbin proceed as follows.
On the previous stitch, you should bring the old color (mustard) tail forward (IMPORTANT!!!), and
yarn over with the new color (red), stretching the loop for several stitches (as done for the right
side).
You’re going to work over this loop until the last stitch worked with that bobbin to cover it up.
Color change - after - wrong side
When working on the wrong side, to perform a color change one or more stitches after the last
stitch worked with the new bobbin, proceed as follows.
You should go back to the last stitch worked with that bobbin (red, in this case), and start carrying
it through till it’s time to change color. Then, yarn over with the new color.
12
Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Carry the yarn
You should always carry the yarn on the wrong side. When working on the right side, carry the
unused yarn behind the work. When working on the wrong side, carry it on the front. If you do
everything correctly, the carried color won't be visible through the stitches. However, if it does
show a little, at least it will only appear on the wrong side.
Start carrying the yarn - right side
If you intend to start carrying the old color when working on the right side, you should twist the
old color tail (mustard) and the new one (red) before initiating the color change, thus bringing the
old one over the new. This way, the old color tail will be completely covered by the new one. This
technique applies to all color change combinations listed in the previous section.
Start carrying the yarn - wrong side
If you intend to start carrying the old color yarn when working on the wrong side, all you have
to do is insert your hook below the old color tail as well.
13
Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Let’s bring to life the Magic Carpet!
Prepare 10 small bobbins as described here below.
The following measures should work out for you if you’re using my same yarn and hook size: I
definitely factored in some slack, so don’t worry about it! Maybe, just keep in mind that you’re not
supposed to leave excessively long yarn tails, around 10 cm or less should be alright :) . Adjust the
length accordingly if needed, specially if you’re working with thicker yarn and bigger hook, add a
couple of meters per skein to be sure!
Secure your bobbins (I find it really handy to use a small piece of yarn for this!) and add a label to
mark their number as reported in parenthesis in the list. Trust me, it will make things much easier!
● Mustard:
○ (1) 6 m
○ (3) 4 m
○ (10) 1.5 m
● Violet:
○ (2) 2.5 m
○ (4) 2.5 m
● Jeans:
○ (5) 3.5 m
○ (7) 3.5 m
● Red:
○ (6) 1.5 m
● Lilac:
○ (8) 1.5 m
○ (9) 1.5 m
Keep the bobbins always secured, you will unravel
them little by little as you proceed. The shorter the
tails, the more often you’ll need to stop to unravel
them, but also the less likely it is they will tangle
beyond repair. Watch out!
14
Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Chart
The carpet is all worked in single crochet. Do not forget the tch in between rows!
The → means that the same bobbin will be used in that direction.
When the number is circled (①) it means that a new bobbin has to be joint in.
The odd numbered rows are worked on the right side, and must be read from right to left. Those
you work on the wrong side are the even ones, and should be read left to right.
If you’re right handed, you’re working on the right side when the starting tail is on your left.
If you’re left handed, you’re working on the right side when the starting tail is on your right.
However, both left handed and right handed should read the chart in the same way, since it is
not representative of the working direction: the working direction matches the chart reading
direction every other row for both right and left handed.
For once, the step by step instructions will be equivalent for you lefties as well :D
15
Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Let’s take a look at a few rows step by step
Foundation chain
Start with the bobbin Mustard (1), and work a ch 18. For a better result, make the slipknot the first
chain stitch (see my IG guides for more info about this technique).
Row1
Work Row1 (17 mustard sc) in the back bumps of this chain.
Right now, you’re looking at the right side of your crochet work.
Then work a tch, turn.
Row2
Row2 is your first wrong side row, and starts with Mustard (1). You work 1 sc mustard, then you
join Violet (2) as indicated in the technique section (Join a new color - wrong side). Since you’re
going to need Mustard (1) right at the end of the row, you should work the rest of the Violet (2)
stitches carrying the Mustard (1) (Start carrying the yarn - wrong side).
Once you reach the last Violet (2) stitch, you drop the Violet (2) and work the last stitch in Mustard
(1) alone.
Then work a tch and turn.
16
Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Row3
You’re working on the right side again.
You work 1 stitch with Mustard (1), and change to Violet (2) (the color change falls right on top of
the last stitch worked with bobbin Violet (2) - Color change - on top - right side). You work 1 stitch
with Violet (2) over Mustard (1) and change again to Mustard (1). You don’t need Violet (2)
anymore in this row, so you drop it.
You work 3 stitches in Mustard (1), then you change to a new mustard bobbin, (3). You join the
bobbin as if it were a new color one (Join a new color - right side).
After 10 sts in Mustard (3) you join in Violet (4) (Join a new color - right side).
You work 1 stitch in Violet (4) while carrying Mustard (3) because you’re going to need it for the
last stitch of the row (Start carrying the yarn - right side). You drop Violet (4), work 1 last stitch
with Mustard (3).
Then work a tch, turn.
Row…
Row8
We need the Lilac (9), but we’re already past it, Lilac (9) was left 2 stitches before. Therefore, we
should go back and work over it for 2 stitches, before performing the color change (Color change -
after - wrong side).
Row9
We need the Lilac (8), but it is hanging in 2 stitches. In this case, we must yarn over with this tail
nevertheless, and work over the loop created to cover it (Color change - before - right side).
Row…
17
Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
At the end, all the tails left will be on the wrong side.
Weave the tails in, keeping them in the same color area.
Add some decorations to the 4 corners.
18
Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Congratulations, your carpet is ready!
Can you even tell the right side (right) from the wrong side (left)?
Don’t forget to send me a picture and tag me / give me credits / use my hashtag when posting
online, all info is in the license!
19
