9
CLOTH ESTIMATION
9.1 INTRODUCTION
Before embarking on garment construction it is important to have an estimate of the cloth
requirement. This depends upon the width of the fabric. It is essential to know how much
of cloth will be needed for a particular garment so that a suitable length can be bought
before garment construction is started.
9.2 OBJECTIVES
After reading this lesson, you will be able to :
• give a correct estimate of cloth according to the width of the fabric;
• explain why it is necessary to estimate cloth requirement before garment
construction.
9.3 CLOTH REQUIREMENT
1. Good fitting
If cloth is bought without proper estimation, it could be too lessor too much for
the garment to be made. It is more then there will be wastage. If it is less, it will
become difficult to make the garment. Even if the garment is made somehow, the
fitting will be affected - the resultant garment many not be a well fitting one.
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2. Good design
Sometimes a design requires more cloth than plain garment would need. Hence
it becomes essential to estimate the cloth that would be needed for the garment.
3. Savesmoney
If excess cloth is bought then there is a wastage of money. If the cloth bought is
less then also one has to spend extra money in buying more cloth. Hence, prior
cloth estimation helps one to save money.
4. Saves time
When cloth is bought after estimation, one knows exactly how to cut the various
pieces of the garment and no time is wasted. Hence cloth estimation saves time,
5. Ease of working
When cloth is bought after estimation one can easily cut it and stitch it without
worrying as to how to do th~ work.
9.4 CLOTH ESTIMATION FOR GARMENTS
Fabrics are available in different widths in the market. Cloth estimation for any garment
depends upon the width - less cloth of wider width will be needed and more cloth of
narrow width will be needed for the same measurements. The cloth estimation for various
garments is done as follows -
Children's garments
1. Jangia
The cloth to be used for making j angia should be soft. Generally jangia is made of new
cloth.
Cloth estimation
For fabric of70 em width
19 em x + 2.5 x 2
= 38 + 5 = 43 G~.
One has to buy 43 em of cloth for the jangia.
Cloth Estimation .s: 91
2. Frock
Frocks are of various kinds and need different amount of cloth, such as :-
i) Plain frock
The bodice and the skirt are equal in length. After cutting the bodice pieces, two
lengths of skirt and one length of sleeve, the collar pieces are cut from the side.
Measurements
Chest=60cm
Sleeve = 13 em
Across shoulder = 28 em
Full length = 55 em
Length of skirt = 30 em
Cloth estimation
Width of cloth = 90 em
Length of skirt x 2 + turning + length of bodice x 2 + seam
30x2 + 8x2 + 25x2 + 2x2
=60+ 16+50+4 = 130 em
Note: The sleeve and collar will be cut from the side.
Width of cloth = 114 em
Skirt length x 2 + turning + length of bodice + length of sleeve
ii) Yokefrock
The bodice piece is very small in a yoke frock, The length of the bodice is subtracted
from the length of the skirt.
Width of cloth = 90 em
Skirt length x 2 + yoke length x 2 + seam + turning
/- .
-
• Note: The sleeve and collar will be cut from the side
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iii) Umbrella frock
This is also known as the round frock. The umbrella could be full wnbrella or half
wnbrella. The full wnbrella is cut on four fold cloth and needs more cloth.
Cloth estimation
Width of cloth = 90 em
Bodice length + seam +skirt length x 2 + turning x 2 + sleeve length + seam +
turning
Width of cloth = 70 cm
Bodice length x 2 + skirt length x 2 + 1/6 round chest + turning x 2 + seam.
,-.
3. Baba suit
The baba suit has a separate top and jangia.:
Width of cloth = 90 em
Length of top + turning + length ofjangia x 2
4. . Sun suit
. Sun suits are those where a bib is attached to thejangia with straps at the back.
Width of cloth == 70 cm
Length ofjangia x 2 + seam
Note: The bib and straps will be cut from the side
Width of cloth = 114 em
Length ofjangia
Note: The bib and straps will be cut from the side.
Ladies garments
- 1. Blouse
Blouse pieces are available in the market but they may sometimes be inadequate for given
measurements. The cloth should be estimated according to the width of the fabric.
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Cloth Estimation:: 93
Measurements
..
Round chest = 92 em Shoulder to dart ;:= 25 em
Round waist = 72 em Sleeve .length = 15 em
Across shoulder = 36 em Full length = 36 em
/
Across chest = 30 em Round arm = 31 em
Dart to dart = 19 em . ,- .
Cloth estimation
Width of cloth = 90 em
Length of blouse x 2 + turning + seam
36 x 2 + 4 x 2 + 2x 1
= 72 + 8 + 2 = 82 em
Width of cloth = 114 em
~ -
1 length of blouse + 1 sleeve length + hem
, --'.
2. Ladies shirt
If the flair is less then the ladies shirt can be made from cloth ofless width. If the flair is
more then some cloth is left from the sides after cutting two lengths of the shirt. Hence .
+
amount of cloth needed will be (Zxlength 2xturning + 1" for shoulders). The fashion
nowadays is for flaired shirts.
Width of cloth = 90 em
Length of shirt x 2 + hem x 2 + 1 sleeve length + seam
3. Salwar
The width of the salwar varies from narrow to wide according to the prevalent fashion.
Different lengths of cloth will be needed for different types of salwars.
i) 2 msalwar
This is a single panel salwar. 2 m cl?th is sufficient to m~e a salwar ?f36".
Width of cloth = 90 em
2 x salwar length + belt + seam.
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ii) Belt salwar
A separate broad belt is attached at the top and this kind of salwar can be made
withless cloth. The length of belt is subtracted from the full length of the salwar.
This allows a wider flair in the salwar,
Cloth estimation
Width of cloth = 90 em
2 x length of salwar - belt + seam
Width of cloth = 70 cm
2 x length of salwar + seam + belt
ill) 1Yz m salwar
If the length ofthe salwar is to be 36" then one has to buyl Yz m of cloth for it.
In effect one needs cloth which is I Yz times the length of salwar.
Cloth estimation
Width of cloth = 70 em
I Y2 X length of salwar + turning +seam
4. Nighty.
Nighty can be made of various designs - using lace, collars, smocking, etc. One has to
buy extra cloth according to the design.
Cloth estimation
Width of cloth = 70 to 90 cm
2 x length of nighty + 2 x turning + I sleeve length + turning
Note: The width of the nighty will be less In cloth of 70 em' width.
Gents garments
1. Gents' shirt
Gents shirt can be made in two ways - full open and half open. The estimation of cloth
in both cases will be the same.
Cloth Estimation :: 95
Measurements -
Round chest = 90cm
Length = 77 em
Sleeve length = 60 em
Cloth estimation
Width of cloth = 90 em
2 x length of shirt + 1 sleeve + turning + seam.
77 x 2 + 60 + 4 + 2 = 154+60+4+2 = 220 em.
Note: The collar, cuffs, yoke, pocket, etc will be cut from the sides.
2. Kurta
Kurta are also of various kinds like Nehru kurta, Kalidar kurta, bengali kurta, etc. The
estimation of cloth for Nehru kurta and bengali kurta is the same but different for the
kalidar k:urta.
i) Nehru kurta
This kurta is made with a placket and pockets.
Width of cloth = 90 cm .
2 xlength ofkurta + turning + seam + 1 sleeve length + turning + seam ..
Note: The placket and pockets will be cut from the side.
ii) Kalidar Kurta
This kurta is made with "kali" or panels at the side.
Width of cloth = 90 em
2 x length of cloth + 4 x round sleeve + hem
The panels ean be cut from the side but with a cloth of smaller width, the length
ofthe kali also has to be bought.
3. Pyjama
Pyjama are also of various kinds. Although the cloth estimation is same for most
types of pyjamas but it is different for the churidar pyjama.
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i) Pant cut pyjama
Width of clotfi = 90 em
2 x length + belt + turning
Note: If pockets are to be made then the round button is kept smaller and the
pockets are cut from the side. .
ii) Plain pyjama
Width of cloth = 90cm
2 x length + belt + turning
iii) Churidar pyjama
This is also made in different ways - by making a bag and without making a bag.
They are also known as 'dhingri cut' and 'samosa cut' pyjamas .
.,
Width of cloth = 90cm
1Y2 x length of'pyjama + turning + belt + folds (churi)
Note: If more churis are desired, more cloth will be needed.
4. Knicker
Width of cloth = 70cm
2 x length ofknickes + 2 x turning + seam.
Note: The fly and belt will be cut from the side. '.
Width of cloth = 1i4 em
'-1 length ofknicker + turning + seam.
Note: The same-amount of cloth will be needed for 70 em and 90 em width of
cloths.
Hence we can see that estimation of cloth is extremely important. The best way to do cloth
estimation is by doing a layout of the garment. In this way suitable length of cloth can be
bought resulting in a well fitting garment and no wastage. '
9.4 WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNT
In this lesson you have learnt about the need for cloth' estimation and how to do it for
different garments with different widths of cloth.
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