National Textile University

BSc. Textile Engineering & Technology

Course code & Title: TET-2402 Textile Deying

Assignment Title:
Stitched garments dyeing process
Submitted By:
Ali Raza 23-NTU-TT-0305
Ghulam Ghous 23-NTU-TT-0310
Atif Hussain 23-NTU-TT-0308
Submitted To:
Dr. Sajid Faheem

1
 Submitted date: 27-05-2025

Stitched Garments Dyeing Process

Introduction

Stitched garments dyeing means dyeing ready-made garments instead of fabric rolls. This
process is especially useful when buyer demands change at the last minute or when specific color
customizations are required. In Pakistan, this technique is gaining popularity, especially in cities
like Faisalabad, Lahore, and Karachi, where export units commonly dye T-shirts, socks,
undergarments, and sportswear.

This method gives manufacturers the flexibility to keep greige (undyed) garments in stock, and
dye them as per customer orders—minimizing waste and saving time.

Background

Garment dyeing first started in Europe in the 1970s, mainly for fashion garments. It was
introduced in Pakistan in the late 1990s, when knitwear and hosiery exporters needed to fulfill
small, customized orders quickly. As modern dyeing machines like soft-flow and paddle
machines became more accessible, the scale of garment dyeing in Pakistan expanded
significantly.

Common Garments Dyed in Pakistan

Most commonly dyed garments in Pakistan include cotton and cotton-blend items like T-shirts,
joggers, hoodies, socks, and undergarments. T-shirts are usually 100% cotton or cotton-lycra
blends. Socks often contain cotton, nylon, and spandex, while joggers and sweatshirts are
typically made from fleece or terry (cotton-polyester blends). These types of garments are ideal
for dyeing because they meet the demand for custom color matching in export markets.

2
Why Garment Dyeing is Preferred

The biggest advantage is that manufacturers can stock greige garments and dye them only when
an actual order arrives. This reduces the risk of unsold inventory and color mismatch.

Garment dyeing is also useful in the fashion industry, where buyers frequently change color
requirements. It enables effects like tie-dye, vintage looks, and over-dyeing with ease.

Garment Dyeing vs Fabric Dyeing – Technical Comparison

Garment dyeing and fabric dyeing differ significantly in terms of process, cost, flexibility, and
output quality. In garment dyeing, ready-made stitched garments are dyed, whereas in fabric
dyeing, only fabric rolls or yardage are processed. In fabric dyeing, color is fixed before
stitching, so changing colors later is difficult, while garment dyeing allows last-minute color
changes after stitching.

Fabric dyeing is more cost-effective for bulk production, but garment dyeing is ideal for small
or customized orders. Fabric dyeing ensures better shade uniformity due to controlled fabric
movement, whereas garment dyeing carries a higher risk of patchiness and uneven dyeing.

Moreover, garment dyeing allows for creative effects like tie-dye, vintage, and overdyeing,
which are difficult to achieve with fabric dyeing.

Compatibility of Fibers and Fabrics

Garment dyeing works best on cellulose fibers such as cotton, viscose, and modal. These fibers
absorb reactive dyes very effectively. Polyester garments require disperse dyes, but these need
high-temperature dyeing machines.

Blended fabrics like cotton-polyester or CVC require more attention, as they need two different
types of dyes or special processing techniques to ensure proper and even dyeing.

Impact of Garment Construction on Dyeing Results

The construction and design of a garment greatly affect the dye penetration and uniformity.

3
  The type of thread is critical; polyester threads do not absorb reactive dyes like cotton
threads, which may result in visible stitch lines in a different shade.
 Trims and accessories such as buttons, zippers, and elastics are often not dye-resistant,
leading to staining or damage during dyeing.
 Areas with tight or double stitching have reduced dye penetration, causing lighter or
uneven shades.
 Excessively tight stitches can cause fabric puckering, which further hinders dye
absorption.

Therefore, for uniform dyeing results, it is essential to use dye-compatible threads and trims
and ensure consistent stitching quality.

Common Dyes Used in Pakistan

Reactive dyes are the most commonly used for cotton garments. They form a chemical bond
with the fabric fibers, providing excellent wash fastness. In Pakistan, well-known reactive dye
brands include Archroma Remazol, Dystar Levafix, and CHT Drimaren. The dyeing is done
around 60°C with pH between 10.5–11, using salt and soda ash for fixation.

Pigment dyes are often used for fashion effects like washed-out or tie-dye looks. They require
binders and heat curing for fixation. These are widely used in Lahore’s small-scale fashion
garment units.

Disperse dyes are used for polyester and require high temperatures (around 130°C). These are
typically used in Karachi-based synthetic garment export units.

Sulfur dyes are used for cost-effective dark shades, but they have slightly lower fastness. Paddle
or winch dyeing machines are used for this method.

Machines used for different fabric types:

1. 100% Cotton Stitched Garments

Recommended Machines:

 Rotary Drum Garment Dyeing Machine

 Paddle Dyeing Machine
 Soft Flow Dyeing Machine (modified for garments)

4
Why?

Cotton is natural, absorbent, and handles medium temperature well. These machines provide
even movement + proper dye absorption.

2. 100% Polyester Stitched Garments

Recommended Machines:

 HTHP Jet Dyeing Machine

 HTHP Rotary Drum Machine
 Beam Dyeing Machine (for fabric stage only)

Why?

Polyester needs high temperature (120–135°C) and pressure. So, only HTHP (High
Temperature High Pressure) machines can dye it properly using disperse dyes.

3. Cotton-Polyester Blended Stitched Garments (e.g. 60/40, 80/20)

Recommended Machines:

 HTHP Rotary Drum Garment Dyeing Machine

 HTHP Jet Garment Dyeing Machine
 Paddle Dyeing Machine (for lower blend polyester)

Why?

Blends need dual dyeing:

 First: Disperse dye for polyester at high temp

 Second: Reactive dye for cotton at medium temp

So only machines that can handle two-bath process or multiple temperature stages are
suitable.

5
4. Denim Garments (Usually Cotton or Cotton-Poly)
Recommended Machines:

 Drum Dyeing Machine (with reducer for vat dye)

 Paddle Machine
 Tumbler Machine (for fashion washes)

Why?

Denim is heavy and mostly dyed using vat dyes or sulfur dyes, which need special chemical
handling and gentle mechanical movement.

5. Wool or Wool-Blend Garments

Recommended Machines:

 Winch Dyeing Machine

 Soft Flow Machine (low-pressure version)

Why?

Wool is sensitive to friction and heat. These machines give very gentle flow and dye at acidic
pH, perfect for acid dyes.

6. Fashion or Designer Garments (Multi-color, Tie-dye, Vintage, etc.)

Recommended Machines:

 Spray Dyeing Booth / Cabinet

 Rotary Drum + Pigment Dye Setup
 Tumbler Dyeing Machine (with pigment binders)

Why?

Fashion effects require surface-level dyeing, control over patterns, and batch-wise
customization — these machines are built for creativity.

6
Summary Table (Fiber Blend vs. Best Machine):
Fabric Type Best Machines Notes

100% Cotton Rotary Drum, Paddle, Soft Flow Uses reactive or direct dyes

100% Polyester HTHP Jet, HTHP Rotary Drum Needs high temp + pressure

Cotton-Poly Blend HTHP Jet, HTHP Drum, Paddle Requires dual dyeing process

Denim (Cotton/Blend) Drum, Paddle, Tumbler Needs vat/sulfur dyes

Wool, Wool-Blend Winch, Soft Flow Uses acid dyes, needs gentle movement

Fashion Effects Spray Booth, Tumbler, Drum Pigment dyes, creative looks

Detailed Garment Dyeing Process (Washer/Dyeing Machine)

1. Preparation Stage

Purpose: Ensure garments and machine are ready for dyeing.

 Garments Inspection: Check for stitching defects, loose threads, broken zippers or
buttons.
 Weighing: Accurate weight of garments is taken to calculate the quantity of dyes, salts,
soda, and auxiliaries.
 Machine Cleaning: The washer/dyeing machine must be free of residues from previous
processes.

2. Loading Garments

Purpose: Load garments in a way that ensures uniform dyeing.

 Garments are loaded into the horizontal drum of the machine.

 Load capacity must be maintained (usually 50–70% of machine volume) to allow free
movement of garments.

7
3. Pre-treatment (Wetting and Scouring)

Purpose: Remove any contaminants (dirt, oil, sizing chemicals) from garments.

 Chemicals Used: Wetting agent and detergent/scouring agent.

 Temperature: 40–60°C.
 Time: 20–30 minutes.
 Effect: Improves dye absorption and removes stains or oils from stitching.

4. Dyeing Stage

Purpose: Impart uniform and permanent color to the stitched garments.

a. Filling the machine with dye liquor:

 Add water to the drum first.

 Add dye according to shade requirements (commonly reactive dyes for cotton garments).
 Dissolve salt (NaCl) — helps open fiber pores and promote dye absorption.
 Add soda ash (Na₂CO₃) gradually — helps fix the dye on the fiber.

b. Dyeing parameters:

 Temperature: 60–80°C depending on dye type.

 Time: 30–60 minutes.
 Liquor ratio: Typically 1:6 to 1:10 (e.g., 10 kg garments = 60–100 L water).
 Machine tumbles garments gently to ensure even dye penetration.

5. Rinsing

Purpose: Remove excess or unfixed dye.

 After dyeing, drain the bath.

 Fill with fresh water and rinse 2–3 times.
 Rinsing prevents dye bleeding and staining in future washes.

6. Soaping

Purpose: Improve color fastness (resistance to washing and rubbing).

8
  Soaping agent (special detergent) is added with water.
 Temperature: 70–80°C.
 Time: 15–20 minutes.
 Removes loosely bound dye particles.

7. Final Rinsing and Softening

Purpose: Final cleaning and fabric feel improvement.

 Final rinse with cold water to remove any residue.

 Add fabric softener (optional) to improve hand feel and flexibility.

8. Unloading and Drying

Purpose: Prepare garments for post-processing or packing.

 Garments are taken out of the machine.

 Water is removed using a hydro-extractor (spin-dryer).
 Drying is done by:
o Tumble dryer for quick results
o Open air drying for sensitive garments

Important Notes:

 Garment type matters – heavier garments (like denim) need different cycles than lighter
garments (like T-shirts).
 Different fibers (cotton, polyester, blends) require different dyes and auxiliaries.
 Color matching is tested by taking lab samples before full production.

If you want, I can also give you:

 Viva questions based on this process

 A flowchart version
 Roman Urdu simplified notes

Just let me know your preference!

9
Garment Dyeing Process (Washer/Dyeing Machine)
1. Preparation Stage

Purpose: Ensure garments and machine are ready for dyeing.

 Garments Inspection: Check for stitching defects, loose threads, broken zippers or
buttons.
 Weighing: Accurate weight of garments is taken to calculate the quantity of dyes, salts,
soda, and auxiliaries.
 Machine Cleaning: The washer/dyeing machine must be free of residues from previous
processes.

2. Loading Garments

Purpose: Load garments in a way that ensures uniform dyeing.

 Garments are loaded into the horizontal drum of the machine.

 Load capacity must be maintained (usually 50–70% of machine volume) to allow free
movement of garments.

3. Pre-treatment (Wetting and Scouring)

Purpose: Remove any contaminants (dirt, oil, sizing chemicals) from garments.

 Chemicals Used: Wetting agent and detergent/scouring agent.

 Temperature: 40–60°C.
 Time: 20–30 minutes.
 Effect: Improves dye absorption and removes stains or oils from stitching.

4. Dyeing Stage

Purpose: Impart uniform and permanent color to the stitched garments.

a. Filling the machine with dye liquor:

 Add water to the drum first.

 Add dye according to shade requirements (commonly reactive dyes for cotton garments).

10
  Dissolve salt (NaCl) — helps open fiber pores and promote dye absorption.
 Add soda ash (Na₂CO₃) gradually — helps fix the dye on the fiber.

b. Dyeing parameters:

 Temperature: 60–80°C depending on dye type.

 Time: 30–60 minutes.
 Liquor ratio: Typically 1:6 to 1:10 (e.g., 10 kg garments = 60–100 L water).
 Machine tumbles garments gently to ensure even dye penetration.

5. Rinsing

Purpose: Remove excess or unfixed dye.

 After dyeing, drain the bath.

 Fill with fresh water and rinse 2–3 times.
 Rinsing prevents dye bleeding and staining in future washes.

6. Soaping

Purpose: Improve color fastness (resistance to washing and rubbing).

 Soaping agent (special detergent) is added with water.

 Temperature: 70–80°C.
 Time: 15–20 minutes.
 Removes loosely bound dye particles.

7. Final Rinsing and Softening

Purpose: Final cleaning and fabric feel improvement.

 Final rinse with cold water to remove any residue.

 Add fabric softener (optional) to improve hand feel and flexibility.

8. Unloading and Drying

Purpose: Prepare garments for post-processing or packing.

11
  Garments are taken out of the machine.
 Water is removed using a hydro-extractor (spin-dryer).
 Drying is done by:
o Tumble dryer for quick results
o Open air drying for sensitive garments

Can Stitched Garments Be Dyed in a Jet Dyeing Machine?

Yes, stitched garments can be dyed in a jet dyeing machine, but typically, jet machines are
designed for fabric dyeing — especially lightweight and delicate fabrics.

When Is Jet Dyeing Suitable for Garments?

Garment dyeing in a jet machine is possible if:

 The garment is lightweight (like T-shirts, shirts, or soft knitwear).

 The fabric and stitching are strong enough to withstand high pressure and circulation.
 The dyeing process is carefully controlled — including temperature, time, and chemical
dosage.

What Are the Possible Problems?

 The garment may shrink due to high temperature and tumbling motion.
 Stitching threads made of a different fiber may absorb dye differently, causing uneven
shades.
 Shape distortion may occur if machine speed or pressure is too high.

Common Dyeing Defects and Solutions

Several common defects affect garment dyeing quality:

 Patchy dyeing usually results from uneven liquor circulation and improper machine
loading. The solution is to load garments evenly and use leveling agents.
 Seam line marks occur due to high seam tension or tight stitching. This can be reduced
by decreasing stitch tension and pre-washing garments before dyeing.
 Shade variation is caused by inconsistent chemical dosing and pH fluctuations.
Maintaining calibrated dosing pumps and stable pH levels helps prevent this.

12
  Cross staining on trims is due to non-dyeable accessories. Use dye-resistant trims or
protect trims with masking tape during dyeing.
 Problems with crocking or rubbing indicate poor dye fixation, which can be resolved
by ensuring proper soaping and neutralization steps.

Understanding and controlling these defects is key to maintaining high-quality garment dyeing.

Common Problems & Their Solutions

If dyeing appears patchy, it’s usually due to uneven liquor circulation—so proper machine
loading is necessary.
Shade variation often happens due to incorrect chemical dosing or pH fluctuations—so both
must be carefully controlled.
Garment shrinkage is a result of high processing temperatures—using pre-shrunk fabrics and
controlled temperatures helps.
Crocking or rubbing issues usually mean poor dye fixation—this can be resolved by effective
soaping.
If buttons or zippers are damaged, they may not be dye-resistant—only dye-friendly trims should
be used.

Environmental Concerns & Sustainability

Top mills in Pakistan, like Interloop and Sapphire, are focusing on eco-friendly dyeing. They use
low-salt reactive dyes, enzymes, and wastewater treatment plants.

Some mills have started using 1:4 liquor ratio machines to save water and energy. Several also
follow international certifications like Oeko-Tex and GOTS to maintain environmental
standards.

Eco-Friendly Innovations in Garment Dyeing

With growing global focus on sustainability, garment dyeing is adopting eco-friendly

techniques:

 Low liquor ratio machines (e.g., 1:4 ratio) significantly reduce water and energy
consumption.
 Enzyme-assisted dyeing replaces harsh chemicals, reducing pollution and improving
fabric softness.
 Digital garment dyeing uses inkjet-like technology to apply dyes, minimizing water use
and allowing precise patterning.

13
  Use of natural and bio-based dyes derived from plants and insects is increasing,
although these are currently more expensive.
 Some Pakistani mills implement zero-liquid discharge (ZLD) systems, recycling 100%
of wastewater.

These innovations help reduce textile pollution and meet international eco-standards such as
GOTS and OEKO-TEX.

Role of Garment Dyeing in Fast Fashion Industry

Garment dyeing plays a crucial role in the fast fashion industry due to its speed and flexibility.
Brands like Zara and H&M require short lead times and quick color changes, which garment
dyeing readily supports.

By stocking greige garments, manufacturers can rapidly respond to market trends and
changing customer demands, reducing overproduction and waste. Many Pakistani export
mills have adopted this model to maintain global competitiveness.

Conclusion

Garment dyeing has proven to be a smart and flexible solution for Pakistan’s textile industry. It
is especially effective for export markets that demand fast delivery and custom shades. With
modern machines, better dyes, and eco-friendly upgrades, the future of garment dyeing looks
bright—and it will continue to play a major role in keeping Pakistan competitive in the global
textile sector.

14