Republic of the Philippines

DR. EMILIO B. ESPINOSA SR. MEMORIAL STATE COLLEGE

OF AGRICULTURE AND TECHNOLOGY
www.debesmscat.edu.ph
Cabitan, Mandaon, Masbate

COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE

Name: Erwin T. Delariarte Jr. Date of Submission: May 13, 2025

Course/Year/Section: BSA 1B Rating:______________________
Laboratory Instructor: Ms. Herma Laurel Class Schedule:_______________

Exercise No. 4

COMPOSTING
Title of the Exercise

Submitted by:
ERWIN T. DELARIARTE JR.

Submitted to:
MS. HERMA LAUREL
 INTRODUCTION

In simple terms, composting is the controlled decomposition of organic

materials, such as kitchen waste and garden trimmings. Rather than
discarding these resources, we facilitate their natural breakdown, transforming
them into a valuable soil amendment. This process presents a sustainable
approach to managing waste and enriching our environment. Instead of
throwing them away, we give them a chance to turn into something really
useful. When food and leaves go to landfills, they can create harmful gases.

The significance of composting extends to several key areas.

Environmentally, it offers a vital alternative to landfill disposal, thereby
reducing the generation of harmful greenhouse gases. Furthermore, the
resulting compost acts as a natural fertilizer, offering a wealth of essential
nutrients to the soil. This reduces the reliance on synthetic fertilizers, which
can have negative impacts on ecosystems.

Ultimately, the incorporation of compost into the soil yields substantial

benefits for plant life. Compost enhances soil structure, improving its ability to
retain moisture and air. This creates a more favorable environment for root
growth. Therefore, the slow release of nutrients from compost ensures a
consistent supply for plant development, leading to healthier, more resilient
vegetation and improved yields in gardens and agricultural settings.
 4. Calculate the percent moisture content of your sample.

Materials Total Amount Oven Dry Amount

Manure (Goat and 200 grams 105 grams
Carabao
Rice Straw 200 grams 90 grams
Legumes 200 grams 80 grams

Ww −Wd
M= x100%
Ww

Where:
M = Moisture content (%)
Ww = Wet weight of the sample
Wd = Dry weight of the sample

Let's break down each calculation:

Manure:
Ww=200g
Wd=105g

200 g − 150 g
M= x100%
200 g

95 g
M= x100%
200 g

M= 47.5%
The note indicates: "= 47.5% moisture weight of manure"

Rice Straw:

Ww=200g
Wd=90g

200 g − 90 g
M= x100%
200 g

110 g
M= x100%
200 g

M= 55%
The note indicates: "= 55% moisture weight of manure"

Leguminous:
Ww=200g
Wd=80g

200 g − 80 g
M= x100%
200 g

120 g
M= x100%
200 g

M= 60%
The note indicates: "= 60% moisture weight of manure"

5. (Table comparing the nutrient content (Nitrogen and Carbon) of

Manure, Rice Straw, and Leguminous materials. The percentages are
given in ranges.)

Nutrient Manure Rice Straw Leguminous

Nitrogen 2-4% 0.5 - 1.0 % 2.0 - 5.0 %

Carbon 30 - 45 % 40 - 45 % 40 - 50 %

C/N Ratio 10 - 15 : 1 40 - 80 : 1 10 - 20 : 1

6. Manure

C= 30-45%
N= 2-4%
C/N ration: 30/4.0 - 45/2
= 7.5:1 to 22.5:1

Rice Straws
C= 40-45%%
N= 0.5-1.0%
C/N ration: 40/1 - 45/0.5
= 40:1 to 90:1
Leguminous

C= 40-50%
N= 2.0-5.0%
C/N ration: 40/5.0 - 50/2.0
= 8:1 to 25:1
 DISCUSSION

The composting process started with carefully chopping and shredding

the collected organic materials such as animal manure(goat and carabao
manure), rice straws and leguminous(madre de cacao and ipil-ipil) ensuring
even decomposition. Following the instructions, we placed the prepared
materials into a container, maintaining a balance between air and moisture.
Adding just enough water was crucial, too much would lead to anaerobic
conditions (lack of oxygen), hindering decomposition and potentially creating
unpleasant odors. Regularly turning the compost pile was essential. This
improved aeration, allowing the microorganisms responsible for
decomposition to thrive. Turning also helped to distribute moisture evenly and
prevented the formation of compacted layers that would slow down the
process.
I observed that the pile's temperature increased noticeably during
active decomposition, indicating the microorganisms were hard at work.
Throughout the process, I took photographs to document each step, from the
initial preparation of the materials to the final, finished compost. This visual
record helped me track the progress of the decomposition and allowed me to
compare the initial materials to the end product. As time went by, I saw some
changes happening. The big pieces started to get smaller and less
recognizable. The colors changed too, turning into a darker, more earthy
brown. It also started to smell different – not like the fresh food we put in, but
more like soil. This was a sign that the composting process was actually
working and the materials were transforming.

Finally, after some time, all that mixed stuff turned into something new.
It looked like dark, crumbly soil. This new stuff, the compost, felt rich and
smelled earthy. It was amazing to see how those old food scraps and leaves
could become something so useful for plants. It made me realize that even
our waste can be turned into something valuable with a little bit of effort and
time.The changes in color, texture, and smell were significant indicators of the
composting process's success. The final compost was a dark, rich, crumbly
material, significantly different from the initial mixture.
Guide questions and instructions on how to prepare the laboratory report

1. What are some techniques to hasten the decomposition process?

One way to make the composting happen faster is by chopping or

shredding the materials into smaller pieces before you put them in your
compost bin. Think of it like this: if you have big chunks of rice straws,
leguminous leaves like ipil-ipil and madre de cacao, and animal manure, it
takes longer for the tiny little workers (like bacteria and fungi) to break them
down. But if you make them smaller, there's more surface area for these
workers to get to, so they can do their job more quickly. Another trick is to
make sure the compost pile has the right amount of air. We do this by turning
the pile regularly. When you turn it, you're mixing things up and letting fresh
air in. These little decomposers need air to breathe, just like us! If they don't
get enough air, the composting process slows down and it might even start to
smell bad. Finally, having the right amount of moisture helps speed things up
too. If it's too dry, the little workers can't move around and do their job
efficiently. If it's too wet, there won't be enough air.

2. Enumerate the factors affecting decomposition.

One important thing that affects how fast things decompose is what
kind of stuff you put in the compost. Some materials break down really easily,
like leguminous leaves(madre de cacao and ipil-ipil). Other things, like big
woody branches, take a much longer time. So, the "ingredients" you use in
your compost pile will definitely change how quickly it turns into compost.
Another big factor is the temperature. Just like we are more active when it's
warm, the little organisms that do the decomposing work best when the
compost pile is warm. If it's too cold, they slow down a lot. That's why you
might notice composting happens faster in the summer than in the winter. A
good-sized compost pile can actually heat up inside, which helps speed up
the process. Finally, as we talked about before, air and water are super
important factors. The tiny decomposers need the right amount of both to
thrive. If there's not enough air, they can't do their job well. If there's too much
or too little water, it also slows them down.
3. Discuss the significance of developing organic fertilizers.

Making organic fertilizers, like compost, is really important because it

helps us take care of the soil in a natural way. Instead of using chemicals,
we're using things that came from nature to help plants grow. This can make
the soil healthier in the long run, helping it hold onto water and nutrients
better. Using organic fertilizers is also good for the environment. Chemical
fertilizers can sometimes wash away into rivers and lakes, causing pollution.
But organic fertilizers are less likely to do this. Plus, when we compost to
make organic fertilizer, we're recycling our food and yard waste, which means
less trash goes to landfills. In the end, using organic fertilizers can lead to
healthier plants that are maybe even more resistant to diseases.

CONCLUSION

So, after doing the composting activity, I learned that it's a really cool
way to turn rice straws, leguminous leaves and animal manure into something
useful for plants. It's like giving trash a new life. We saw how the materials
changed over time, going from recognizable trash and leaves to dark crumbly
soil. This change shows that the natural process of breaking things down
really works. One of the big takeaways for me was that a few simple things
can make a big difference in how fast and well composting happens.
Chopping things up small, making sure there's enough air by turning the pile,
and keeping it a little bit damp are all important steps. It's like making a good
home for the tiny workers that do all the hard work of decomposition.

RECOMMENDATION

For a simple composting method, use a bin or even a designated area

in your yard. Layer your materials: start with a layer of coarser materials like
twigs or shredded cardboard for drainage, followed by layers of "greens"
(grass clippings, fruit/vegetable scraps) and "browns" (dried leaves, shredded
paper). Keep the pile moist, like a damp sponge, and turn it regularly (every
few days) to aerate it. Besides dry leaves and animal manure, you can add
many other organic materials to your compost. Fruit and vegetable scraps are
great, as are coffee grounds and tea bags. Avoid oily or diseased materials,
meat, dairy, and pet waste as these can attract pests and create unpleasant
odors. Shredding larger materials will help them decompose faster. The key is
to maintain a good balance of "greens" and "browns" for optimal
decomposition. Too many greens will make the pile too wet and smelly, while
too many browns will make it too dry and slow down the process. Observe
your pile – if it smells bad, add more browns; if it’s too dry, add water and
more greens.

The cool thing is, you don't need a lot of space or special tools to do
this. Even a small corner of your yard can work.
 APPENDICES

(Collecting and preparation of tmaterial for Composting)

(Mixing the material in the big pail)

(Decomposition Process)

(Final Product)