" i ^

Author of COLOR ME BEAUTIFUL

Carole Jackson
with Kalia Lulow
. ^ ,
Color
for
Men
Carole Jackson
with Kalia Lulow
Illustrations by Yuki Horikawa
Photographs by Ben Rosenthal and Jacques Silberstein

B a l l a n t i n e Books • New York

Copyright © 1984 by Color Me Beautiful, Inc.
Color for Men is a registered trademark of Color Me Beautiful, Inc.
All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. Published in the United States by Ballantine
Books, a division of Random House, Inc., New York, and simultaneously in Canada by Random House of Canada Limited, Toronto.

Book designby Michaelis/Carpelis Design Associates, Inc.

Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data

Jackson, Carole, 1 9 4 2 -
Color for men.
Includes index.
1. Men's clothing. 2. Color in clothing. 3. Grooming
for men. I. Lulow, Kalia. II. Title.
TT617.J33 1984 646'.32 84-45196
ISBN 0-345-31946-X
First Edition: October 1984
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
CONTENTS
PART I: Your Colors

1. Color for Men: What's in It for You? 11

2. Right/Wrong 14

3. The Seasonal Palettes: The Color Charts : 21

4. Determining Your Season: The Color Test 43

5. Understanding Your Colors 58

PART II: Your Clothes, Your Style

6. Building a Wardrobe: Content, Color, Lifestyle 89

7. Your Body Proportions — 105

8. Your Suit: Size, Cut, Fit, and Quality 120

9. Your Shirt 136

10. Your Tie 149

11. Combining Coat, Shirt, and Tie 163

12. Your Clothing Personality 174

13. Shopping. 199

14. The Finishing Touches: Hair, Glasses, and Grooming 204

Epilogue: The Total Man 219

Season-by-Season Tear-Out Shopping Guides 221

Fabric Glossary 229

Index : 231
This book is dedicated to

Alec and Megan Bartsch, my children, whom I love, admire, and respect.
Jean Halliburton, my mother, who loves, admires, and respects me. I love
you, too.
Steve DiAntonio, president of Color Me Beautiful, whose warmth and
acumen have made our company grow by leaps and bounds, and who
made Color for Men possible.
Acknowledgments

Color for Men is truly a reflection of combined energy, talent, and enthusiasm.
To the following people who contributed so much I give special thanks:

Joelle Delbourgo, Editor-in-Chief of Ballantine Trade Books, who is not only a

genius but a saint. Steve DiAntonio, for his logic, his love, and his tireless support.
Jean Halliburton, for her literary skills (some of which rubbed off), and her broad
shoulder.
Kalia Lulow, my co-writer, who endured spider bites in my basement guest
room—for her talent and her fortitude! Nellie Sabin and Nancy Inglis, our editors,
for pulling it together so beautifully.

Andrea and Alan Lentz, for writing the chapters on suits and body proportions;
and Andrea again for her incredibly efficient handling of details. Ken Karpinski,
for his knowledge of the men's clothing industry and his invaluable input. Louis
O'Connor of Bloomingdale's for letting me pick his brain for two years. Dennis
Lucier, for his expertise and advice on men's hair design.

Liz Singley and Sandi Wheeler for typing (and typing)—and late night laughter.
Winnie Adams, for her perfectionism and proofreading.
Marie Kelley, Alexander White, and Mary Harz, for masterminding the photog-
raphy shootings; Jacques Silberstein and Ben Rosenthal for taking these wonderful
pictures; and Yuki Horikawa for his fine illustrations. Sylvain Michaelis, for his
marvelous book design; Fred Dodnick, who worries about getting the colors right;
and Jimmy Harris, who designed the wonderful cover.

Carol Brandewie, Tina Dyer, Errol Glidden, Norma Rios, Maria Caballeros, and
Suzanne and Bill Doswell, who kept the rest of my life running smoothly while
I wrote.

The wonderful staff at our headquarters and the Color Place, and the Color Me
Beautiful/ Color for Men consultants who eagerly participated, especially David
Kibbe, Roger Raley, Doris Pooser, Lou Marohn, JoAnne and Harry Robinson,
Rubye Erickson, Nancy Matlin, Louise Wiltshire, Camille Oordt, Barbara Watkins,
Carolyn Thurman, Earlene Herman, and Donni Betts.
 PART

YOUR
COLORS
CHAPTER

1
COLOR FOR MEN:
WHAT'S IN IT FOR
YOU?

• Do you look your best all the time?

• Do you project authority and confidence in a business suit?
• Can you combine your coat, shirt, and tie with complete confi-
dence?
• Do you have sex appeal?
• Do you have the "right" thing to wear for any occasion all year
round?
• Do you have a well-coordinated wardrobe—or a closet full of un-
matched clothes?
• Do you hate shopping?
• Do you let your girlfriend or wife buy all your clothes?
• Do you shy away from peach, pink, or turquoise?
• Do you know what colors look best on you?

If even one of your answers does not please you, this book is for you. Color for
Men is about color, image, and you. It's about using color to enhance your looks
12/COLOR FOR MEN

and your life. Yes, color is the secret to a good image. And what man doesn't
want to look his best?
Color for Men is a scientific system, a way of dressing in colors that bring out
the best in you. Why scientific? Your genes have determined the color of your
skin, your hair, and your eyes. Only certain colors complement your natural col-
oring. When you wear the right colors, you come alive. Dressed in colors that
work against what nature has given you, you fade away. I have seen a man change
from a frog to a prince simply by changing his shirt!
The key is knowing which colors work best on you. The Color for Men system
will help you discover your personal colors. You'll know exactly what clothes to
buy—and what not to buy. It will simplify shopping and help you coordinate
your wardrobe with ease. The beauty of the system is that all of your colors
harmonize so you can mix and match easily. Best of all, dressed in the right colors,
you'll look and feel terrific. At work, you'll convey power and elicit respect—
and you'll feel sexier after hours.
Color for Men is based on the same system that inspired my book for women,
Color Me Beautiful. To date, Color Me Beautiful has sold over 3 million copies
and has been on the New York Times bestseller list for over three years. Obviously
the system works!
Color Me Beautiful, Inc. is now a multi-million-dollar business. Our company
has over 200 color and image consultants (male and female) worldwide. Our motto
is excellence, our philosophy is service. In 1983, we launched the Color for Men
division. In our men's consultations, we determine our client's colors and show
him how to put color power to work for him.
We use the seasons as a way of describing your coloring and the colors that
look best on you. Nature has done an outstanding job of arranging colors har-
moniously, so we borrow from her to create a harmonious wardrobe for you. You
are either a Winter, Summer, Autumn, or Spring.
The Winter man looks most striking in cool colors with sharp contrast, like the
winter evening's dark sky and the pure white snow. The Summer man's coloring
is most complemented by the cool, dusty colors of summertime—the blue-green
sea, hazy white clouds, and grayed blue of the summer sky. Autumn is the man
who looks best in rich, warm colors and muted earth tones, like the autumn leaves
or a golden sunset. The Spring man's coloring is brought to life in the clear, fresh
colors that come out in spring—the clear blues and ivories of mountain flowers
and the bright green of fresh buds on the trees.
 COLOR FOR MEN/13

Now we are happy to share the power of color with you. This book will take
you through the Color for Men system. First you'll identify your season. Then
we'll provide you with a palette of colors that work together automatically. You'll
learn how to assemble a well-coordinated wardrobe with something to wear for
every occasion. The Color for Men system shows you how to combine a shirt, tie,
and suit, how to choose accessories, even which hairstyle is most flattering to
your face. You'll also find a tear-out section at the end of this book containing a
summary of shopping tips for each season.
Color for Men is a total system. It's easy to use and it works! When you put it
to work for you, you'll look great—and you'll feel great, too!
CHAPTER

2
RIGHT/WRONG

D A T E L I N E : Monday morning, 8:00 A.M. Frank reaches into his closet

to get dressed for an important meeting. He pulls out a gray pinstriped suit, a
white shirt, and a burgundy tie. He dresses carefully, confident that his clothing
projects the image he wants.
It's time to hit the streets. But alas, in the morning light, Frank looks as if he
died on his way to the office.
Frank is an Autumn, and Autumns look distinctly awful in most grays. He
cannot and should not try to wear that version of the standard business uniform.
No matter what season you are, there are some colors that work for you, and some
that don't.
Wearing the right color enhances your face. You look younger, healthier, hand-
somer, more vital, and more confident. Facial lines and shadows are smoothed
away, your skin glows, your eyes sparkle. You project a positive image to both
men and women.
The wrong color detracts from your face. It can make you look tired, sallow
(yellow) or drain the natural color from your face. Dark circles, lines, and blem-
ishes stand out. Wearing the wrong color may make your clothes overpower your
face. People will focus on your clothes instead of you. Your capability and your
authority are undermined because you do not project a harmonious image. In
social and romantic settings, you may be turning yourself from a prince into a
frog.
Don't panic. The good news is that actually you can wear almost any color in
the rainbow; the tone, shade, and intensity are what make the difference. Knowing
 RIGHT/WRONG/15

what colors look great on you lets you make subtle adjustments in your wardrobe
that have enormous impact on how the world sees you—and on how you feel
about yourself.
You can see from the photographs what a difference color makes. Your face
has color (skin tone) and your clothes have color. They react to each other just
like colors on a color wheel. Two colors placed together can bring out the best
in each other—or the worst.
In a consultation, we show each man how he looks in each of his colors by
holding a piece of fabric under his face as if it were a shirt. Some men never
before realized how good-looking they are!
You are probably intuitive about your best colors. Look in your own closet.
Isn't there a particular shirt you end up wearing every weekend, or a suit you
feel especially great in (even if it is old)? And then there's that nearly new item
of clothing that you never wear. Why? Most likely it's the color. It looked fine on
the rack in the store, but it just doesn't work on you.
Men often have their intuitive color sense about what looks good on them stifled
by their wives, their mothers, or salesmen, who instinctively try to dress you in
their colors. Everyone favors his own best colors. If you rely on other people who
don't know your colors to do your shopping, you'll end up with a wardrobe that
is out of step with your natural color sense and clashes with your natural good
looks.
Most of the popular corporate-image surveys were conducted in the East,
where—particularly in New York—Winters predominate. While Winters and
Summers do look their best in the usual business colors, Autumns and Springs,
who are flattered by warm, golden colors, must find shades of navy and gray that
both project a corporate image and work with their coloring. It's hard to look
competent with a drawn, tired-looking face, yet many men undermine their image
by adopting the "success" look without regard for what works for them individ-
ually. All men have the freedom to find their own power colors in their own best
shades and combinations. On some, for example, brown looks best!
Frank (the man mentioned at the beginning of the chapter) was an executive
who came to us for a consultation. He was wearing his dark gray pinstriped suit,
white shirt, and burgundy tie. The clothes looked great, but Frank, an Autumn,
looked terrible. We showed him how to find his version of "gray" and how an
Autumn uses the right shirt and tie to pull off a navy suit. (Navy is not an Autumn's
best color.) We changed his tie from burgundy to a shade of red that flattered
16/COLOR FOR MEN

him. Result: Frank had an image that was entirely appropriate for his job, but
with added personal credibility.
David, an overweight middle-aged man, began to feel that life was passing him
by. His wife started to tease him about his "mid-life crisis"—until she noticed
he wasn't laughing. To give his self-image a boost, she coaxed him into having
his colors done. Skeptical at first, David learned that he is a Spring. A modest
sort, he wanted to keep wearing "safe" colors, but in his case, he needed to get
away from white and dark blue and experiment instead with some more inter-
esting, and more flattering, shades. David bought a new camel-colored jacket and
wore it out to dinner. The response was immediate and dramatic. Had he changed
his glasses? Cut his hair? Lost weight? Not yet. But soon, with the confidence he
gained from learning his best colors, David found the impetus to do all three.
The effectiveness of personal colors applies to any man, whether he's a doctor,
a plumber, an executive, a retired grandpa or ajteenager. Test it yourself! The
results are immediate. Buy a couple of polo shirts or T-shirts in colors that bring
out your best, and watch the positive response you get from those around you.
Try a new tie and shirt in your colors and give your working image a boost. It's
important that you get feedback from others, since you'll find it difficult to be
objective about your own appearance.
Once you know your colors, you will have the power to look good consistently,
and to believe in yourself all the time. You really can color your way to the top.
 RIGHT/WRONG/17

wrong/winter right/winter

Jacques is a Winter with olive skin, brown eyes, and dark brown hair. He looks best in crisp, cool
colors. The camel jacket looks dull on him and gives his skin a yellow cast. Jacques' face comes
alive when he wears a navy jacket, white and blue shirt, and navy tie.

right/spring wrong/spring

Bob, a Spring, looks great in the camel jacket, ivory shirt, and tan tie. It complements his pink-
peach skin, blue eyes, and light reddish brown hair. The dark navy jacket drains the color from
Bob's face. He would look great in a brighter navy such as the one worn by Rick on p. 38.
18/COLOR FOR MEN

wrong/summer right/summer

right/winter
Terry, a Summer, has pink-beige skin, soft
blue eyes, and dark ash blond hair. The bright
polo shirt is too strong for his coloring. Notice
how your eye is drawn to Terry's shirt before
you see his face. Terry looks great in his
medium blue shirt which is more harmonious
with his Summer coloring. Even his eyes look
brighter and bluer in his correct shade of blue.

Winter Jacques, whose skin, hair, and eyes are

more intense, really comes to life in his royal
blue polo. Compare Jacques and Terry in royal
blue. Jacques wears the shirt; the shirt wears
Terry! Jacques would look washed out in the
medium blue shirt that so flatters Summer
Terry.
 RIGHT/WRONG/19

wrong/autumn right/autumn

Arthur is an Autumn with dark red-brown hair, hazel eyes and light peach skin. Although he does
not look bad in Summer's blue-gray suit, he looks better in Autumn's chocolate brown suit and
oyster shirt. The gray suit looks insipid on him, while the brown one brings color to his face.

right/summer wrong/summer

Summer Terry is wearing the identical blue-gray suit on the left. This is his best "power" suit.
Winter's charcoal gray suit and pure white shirt overpower Terry's Summer coloring so that he
looks drawn and tired.
20/COLOR FOR MEN

wrong/spring right/spring

wrong/autumn right/autumn

The burgundy shirt worn by Bob and Arthur in the left-hand pictures is wrong for both of them,
but for different reasons. Bob's Spring coloring is overwhelmed by the dark color; its blue
undertone is harsh on him. He looks younger, healthier, more handsome in Spring's orange-
red. Arthur looks fine in the intensity of the dark burgundy color, but the blue undertone clashes
with his peach skin, making him look pale and accentuating the lines under his eyes. His warm
Autumn red on the right smooths his face and enhances his natural good looks!
CHAPTER

3
THE SEASONAL
PALETTES: THE
COLOR CHARTS

I n order to determine your own colors, look at the color charts in

this chapter. The four seasonal charts are the building blocks of the Color for Men
system. After you understand how the colors work and study the pictures of the
men in each season, you can move on to the next chapter to personally test yourself
and decide which palette is right for you.

UNDERSTANDING THE FOUR SEASONS

The Color for Men system uses the seasons to describe your coloring and the color
palette that flatters you. Each season conjures an image of colors that everyone
understands, and just as in nature, the colors within each seasonal palette har-
monize perfectly. The four charts are not designed for use during the appropriate
season of the year; instead, you belong to one season all year round. By using
your season's chart as a guide, you'll be able to match your own coloring to the
colors that are best for you, as well as put together a well-coordinated wardrobe
in which your clothes go together effortlessly.
The Winter man looks best in vivid colors, dark colors, or very light, icy
shades—say, a navy suit with a pure white shirt and red tie. The Summer man
22/COLOR FOR MEN

wears pastels and muted dark colors best; a blue shirt and blue suit are his favorite.
Autumn is most harmonious in rich, deep earth colors, browns and russets, or
muted gold-based shades from medium to dark. And Spring is the man most
flattered by warm, golden colors, clear rather than dusty, light to medium rather
than dark. A Spring man loves his camel jacket.

COMPARING THE COLORS

Winter and Summer are the cool (blue-based) palettes. The Winter chart has either
blue-based colors or true colors (those with a balance of yellow and blue, black
and white). The Summer colors have blue, rose, or gray undertones. Autumn and
Spring are the warm (yellow-based) palettes. The Autumn palette is based on
golden tones, and Spring's colors have clear yellow undertones.
The comparison table at the beginning of the charts shows some of the basic
differences among the four seasonal palettes. First look at the different shades
and tones. Notice how Winter's navy is clear and dark, Summer's navy is grayed,
Autumn's is a marine navy, and Spring's is a bright, clear royal navy. Now look
at the greens. Winter's is a true green, Summer's is a blue-green, Autumn's green
is golden and earthy, and Spring's is a clear yellow-green. The reds for both Winter
and Summer are blue-reds, because they are the cool (blue-based) seasons; the
reds for the warm (yellow-based) Autumn and Spring are orange-reds.
Now examine the comparison chart for color intensity. Even though Winter and
Summer are both cool, the intensity of their colors differs considerably. Summer's
colors may be either clear or powdered (muted), while Winter's are all bold and
intense. Compare Summer's light sky blue to Winter's deep royal blue. Autumn
has strong colors, either vivid or muted, but Spring has only clear colors. Spring's
palette can be bright or light, but never muted or extremely dark. Look at the
difference between the browns and yellows of Autumn and Spring.
Now look at the color charts. Notice that a few colors are missing from some
palettes. Only the Winter man can wear both black and pure white, but Winter
has no brown or orange. Only Autumn has dark brown, but Autumn has no gray,
pink, or purple. Summer has no orange. Spring has a little bit of every color except
black and snow white. (text continues on p. 40)
 WINTER SUMMER AUTUMN SPRING

Cool Colors Cool Colors Warm Colors Warm Colors

You can wear almost any color; it's the tone, shade, and intensity that count.
Winter's and Summer's colors are cool with blue undertones. Autumn's and
Spring's colors have yellow undertones. One column is best for you.
 WINTER BUSINESS/DRESS

Neutral Colors: Light Colors:

Suits, Coats, Pants Business/Dress Shirts

Pure White Icy Pink

Icy Gray

Taupe (Gray Beige) Light True Gray

Icy Yellow Icy Aqua

Ties: Colors from any category. Choose from Neutrals or Basics for a conservative look;
any color for sportswear.

Shoes and belts Black, Navy

(dress):

Shoes and belts Black, Navy, Cordovan (burgundy-toned), Gray. Add Taupe and White for warm
(casual): weather.

Briefcase and other Black, Cordovan (burgundy-toned)

leather goods:

Shopping guide: Winters are best in clear colors and high contrast. A Winter strives to stay sharp
and should never wear muted, powdered tones. When shopping, think true, blue,
and vivid; sharp, clear, and icy.
 THE SEASONAL PALETTES/25

WINTER SPORTSWEAR

Basic Colors: Bright/Accent Colors:

Sport Coats, Sportswear
Slacks, Outerwear

Lemon Yellow

Blue-Red Royal Blue

Shocking Pink
26/COLOR FOR MEN

WINTER MEN

Ben is a Winter with rose-beige skin, gray-green Danny has classic Winter coloring: dark brown
eyes, and silver-gray hair. He grayed hair, brown eyes and olive skin. He is
prematurely, as Winters often do. especially flattered by the bright Winter colors.

Dean has black-brown hair and hazel eyes. Toshio's olive skin appears sallow if he wears
Unlike most Winters, he has rosy cheeks. the wrong colors. In clear colors, he looks
healthy and attractive.
 THE SEASONAL PALETTES/27

WINTER MEN

Dale is a fair-skinned Winter, with bright blue Tim, unlike most Winters, has pink-beige skin.
eyes and dark hair. He wears Winter's icy His eyes are a soft blue with brownish centers.
colors and dark, cool colors especially well.

Neil has light gray-beige skin, green eyes with Joe's dark hair, black-brown eyes and rose-
white flecks in the iris and dark brown hair. He brown skin are flattered by the high contrast in
wears all his Winter colors equally well. his pure white shirt and dark suit.
28/COLOR FOR MEN

SUMMER RUSINESS/DRESS

Neutral Colors: Light Colors:

Suits, Coats, Pants Business/Dress Shirts

Soft White Pale Lemon Yellow

Charcoal Blue-Gray Cocoa Light Rose-Beige Powder Pink

Light Blue-Gray Rose-Beige

Grayed Blue Light Periwinkle Blue Lavender

Ties: Colors from any category. Choose from Neutrals or Basics for a conservative look;
any color for sportswear.

Shoes and belts Rose-Brown, Black, Cordovan

(dress):

Shoes and belts Rose-Brown, Cordovan, Navy, Gray. Add Rose-Beige and Soft White for warm
(casual): weather.

Briefcase and other Rose-Brown, Cordovan

leather goods:

Shopping guide: Summers wear soft Neutrals especially well and may wear both muted and clear
colors. When you shop, think of blue or rose undertones. Even though you may
favor your bright colors, you should strive for blends and subtle contrasts rather
than extremely sharp contrasts. Your dark colors are always grayed.
 THE SEASONAL P

SUMMER SPORTSWEAR

Basic Colors: Bright/Accent Colors:

Sport Coats, Sportswear
Slacks, Outerwear

Light Lemon Yellow Medium Blue-Green Orchid

Medium Blue Watermelon Red Raspberry

Spruce Green

Pastel Blue-Green Deep Rose

30/COLOR FOR MEN

SUMMER MEN

Steve has a pink skin tone, clear blue eyes and Terry is a typical Summer, with pink-beige skin
ash blond hair that turns slightly golden in the and blue eyes. White-blond in childhood, his
summertime. hair is now a dark ash blond.

Steve looks great in a powdered pink shirt Gordon's soft gray-blue eyes, pale pink skin and
while Winter Tim (p. 27) looks best in icy pink. light hair are most complemented by the pastel
shades of the Summer palette.
 THE SEASONAL PALETTES/31

SUMMER MEN

With his ash brown hair, beige skin and hazel Bill's prematurely gray hair has a pearly white
eyes, John looks especially good in his browns, tone, typical of a Summer. Compare his hair to
which have rose, rather than golden, tones. Winter Ben's (p. 26) silver gray hair.

Billy is a vivid Summer with dark brown hair, Mel's soft blue-gray hair, blue eyes and pink
clear green eyes and deep rose-beige skin. He skin tone are complemented by his blue shirt,
looks best in the brighter Summer colors. blue-gray suit and blue tie.
32/COLOR FOR MEN

AUTUMN BUSINESS/DRESS

Neutral Colors: Light Colors:

Suits, Coats, Pants Business/Dress Shirts

Charcoal Brown Camel Oyster White Light Peach/Apricot

Dark Chocolate Brown Marine Navy Warm Beige Light Periwinkle Blue

Buff (Light Gold) Light Grayed Green

Khaki/Tan Grayed Green

Ties: Colors from any category. Choose from Neutrals or Basics for a conservative look;
any color for sportswear. Reds are acceptable for business as well as social wear.

Shoes and belts Brown, Dark Cordovan (brownish), Black (optional—to wear with Navy)
(dress):

Shoes and belts Brown, Cordovan (brownish), Tan. Add Beige and Oyster for warm weather.
(casual):

Briefcase and other All shades of Brown, Tan, Beige

leather goods:

Shopping guide: Autumns can wear either muted or clear colors. You may use most of these
colors as a general guide, but stick closely to the chart when shopping for your
blues. Always tliink of golden undertones.
 THE SEASONAL PALETTES/33

AUTUMN SPORTSWEAR

Basic Colors: Bright/Accent Colors:

Sport coats, Sportswear
Slacks, Outerwear

Medium Warm Bronze Mustard

Mahogany

•- I I I

•
Gold
Deep Peach/Apricot Jade Green Deep Periwinkle Blue

Teal Blue Salmon

34/COLOR FOR MEN

AUTUMN MEN

Autumn John has olive-green eyes and yellow- A light Autumn with strawberry blond hair,
beige skin. The warm Autumn colors green eyes and peach skin, Stephen looks better
complement his coloring. in the muted colors of the Autumn palette.

Jay has teal-blue eyes, golden brown hair and Addison has charcoal black hair, dark brown
peach-beige skin—a true Autumn. eyes and light golden brown skin.
 THE SEASONAL PALETTES/35

AUTUMN MEN

Arthur has dark brown hair, hazel eyes, and Dale is an Autumn with blue-green eyes, peach-
light peach skin. beige skin and brown hair with golden high-
lights, who wears the rich Autumn colors well.

J. R. is a typical red-headed Autumn with olive- Richard is a vivid Autumn: dark auburn hair,
green eyes and a ruddy complexion. dark golden brown eyes, lightly-freckled golden
beige skin. He looks best in high contrast colors.
 SPRING RUSINESS/DRESS

Neutral Colors: Light Colors:

Suits, Coats, Pants Business/Dress Shirts

Light Peach/Apricot Light Periwinkle Blue

Light Warm Beige Camel

Ties: Colors from any category. Choose from Neutrals or Basics for a conservative look;
any color for sportswear. Red is acceptable for business as well as social wear.

Shoes and belts Brown, Dark Cordovan (brownish), Black (optional—to wear with navy)
(dress):

Shoes and belts Brown, Cordovan (brownish), Tan, Navy. Add Beige and Ivory for warm weather.
(casual):

Briefcase and other Brown, Tan, Navy, Beige

leather goods:

Shopping guide: Springs need colors that are "alive." When you shop think clear, warm (yellow),
and snappy. Your colors are the hardest to find because they must be clear—
never muted—and not too dark.
 SPRING SPORTSWEAR

Basic Colors: Bright/Accent Colors:

Sport Coats, Sportswear
Slacks, Outerwear

Light Clear Navy Pastel Yellow-Green Periwinkle Blue

Light Clear Gold Bright Yellow-Green Dark Periwinkle Blue Coral Pink

Light Warm Aqua Medium Violet Bright

Light Teal Blue Clear Bright Aqua Bright Golden Yellow Light Orange

Emerald Turquoise Peach/Apricot

Light True Blue Clear Salmon Clear Bright Red

38/COLOR FOR MEN

SPRING MEN

Joey has golden blond hair, clear blue eyes, and Rick has dark honey blond hair, golden beige
peach beige skin. skin, and dark blue eyes.

Tim has auburn hair, bright teal-blue eyes, and Lowell is a vivid Spring with golden brown
a ruddy pink-peach skin tone. He looks great in hair, blue eyes, and peach-beige skin.
all of the clear, warm colors of Spring.
 THE SEASONAL PALETTES/39

SPRING MEN

John is a light Spring with strawberry blond Cal's hair is red laced with warm, yellow-toned
hair, turquoise eyes, and light peach skin. He gray and his eyes are green. His light peach
looks great in the lighter Spring colors. skin is slightly ruddy.

A typical Spring with fair peach skin and rosy John's gray hair has a warm, golden cast. He
cheeks, light reddish brown hair and blue eyes, has pale blue eyes and ruddy peach-beige skin.
Bob wears the pastel colors especially well.
4Q/C0L0R FOR MEN

ANALYZING YOUR COLORING

Your skin tone, like your palette, is either cool (blue-based) or warm (yellow-
based). You can wear almost every color; it's the tone, shade, and intensity of the
color that make the difference. A yellow-green, for example, reflects differently
on your face than a blue-green does. A powder blue has a different effect than a
bright blue.
Studying the coloring of the men in the pictures will help you understand why
one seasonal chart works best for one individual while another chart works best
for someone else. For example, look at the difference between the Winter and
Summer men. Winter coloring is stronger, with more contrast between hair, skin,
and eyes. The Summer man has softer, less intense coloring. Even though both
are from the cool seasons, a Winter man looks washed out in a pastel sky blue
shirt, and a Summer's face is overpowered in bright, royal blue. In general, notice
how much darker the Autumn men's hair and eyes are, compared to the lighter
coloring of the Springs. Even a light Autumn requires deep, muted colors to en-
hance his earthy coloring. Bright Spring colors would look brassy on him. Spring,
on the other hand, has a clear, lively quality to his skin and eyes, and looks drab
in dark or muted colors.

UNDERSTANDING THE CHARTS

Each color chart is arranged to fit a man's wardrobe. Once you know your season,
you can use your chart not only as a guide for buying clothes but also for choosing
accessories, decorating your office, and even buying your next car! Notice how
the charts are divided into Neutral Colors, Basic Colors, Light Colors, and Bright/
Accent Colors to help you organize your wardrobe and your shopping.

NEUTRALS are colors that go with everything. They form the foundation of your
wardrobe. Select overcoats, suits, jackets, and pants from this group.

LIGHTS are for business and dress shirts. Shirt colors are important, since they
are worn next to the face. Lights can also be worn in sweaters or warm-weather
slacks and suits. Your shirt may be worn as a solid or with stripes or checks from
any of your color groups. Here are some possible combinations for the various
seasons:
 THE SEASONAL PALETTES/41

Winter: White shirt with Bright Burgundy stripe

Summer: Soft White shirt with Blue stripe
Autumn: Oyster White shirt with Rust stripe
Spring: Ivory shirt with Blue stripe

BASIC COLORS are a little more colorful than Neutrals, but are still versatile
enough to go with many of your other colors, and they add diversity to your
wardrobe. Select sport coats from this group (also from Neutrals) as well as sweat-
ers, casual outerwear, and slacks. These colors are often found woven into suit
fabrics. Your favorite ties will probably come from this category.

BRIGHT/ACCENT COLORS are your chance to add a new dimension to your

wardrobe in sportswear, casual clothes, and ties. Casual clothes and sportswear
may be worn in Brights, either as solids or in stripes or other prints, according
to your personality.
Although these categories suggest appropriate clothing from each section of the
color chart, the divisions are flexible. For example, neutral colors, while most
suitable for dress or business, may also be worn in sportswear. And ties may come
from any category, depending upon your needs and personality.
The seasonal charts are designed to give you a complete range of colors, with
something appropriate for every time of year and for every occasion. Some of your
colors are suitable for wintertime, some for summertime. Your chart contains
business colors, dress colors, sport colors, subdued colors and bright colors.

THE COLOR FOR MEN SYSTEM

Now that you've seen the color charts and the photographs, you may still feel
you can successfully wear colors from all four seasons. Certainly you can find a
few colors from each that might look good on you. Some colors are relatively
flattering to everyone. But for two reasons you should not wear colors from a
palette that is not yours. First, your season's colors are designed to be your best.
Why look only good when you can look great? Second, the colors within each
chart are compatible and are arranged to give you a coordinated wardrobe. When
you follow your chart's guidelines, all your sport shirts will go with all your pants.
Your ties will go easily with many of your suits and shirts. If you throw in an
oddball color, you throw off the whole system.
42/COLOR FOR MEN

To see how the system works, pick out a suit color from one of the charts. Now
imagine each shirt on that chart with the suit. Almost every single light color
works. Now choose another suit color and do the same. Do you see the versatility?
Each suit can be worn with at least five shirt colors plus all sorts of shirts that
include stripes, checks, or subtle prints. By adding five or six ties, you can have
infinite variety (up to twenty different combinations) from just one suit, especially
if it is a solid.
As you build your wardrobe using your own color chart, you will rapidly ex-
perience the true benefits of mix-and-match colors. You'll need fewer clothes, yet
you'll have more to wear than ever before. You needn't be frustrated trying to get
dressed in the morning, nor will you need to hang shirt and tie on the same hanger
to remember what goes with what. Because your colors go with each other, your
clothes will coordinate all by themselves.
Perhaps you are afraid you'll have to give up a color you really like. Don't!
Keep it in your environment. Just don't wear it. If you're unhappy about having
to part with a particular item of clothing, consider this: did you ever really get a
compliment in that jacket? Or did the jacket get the praise? A true compliment
is about you, not your clothes, and I promise you that as you wear your new colors
and the compliments flow, you'll gladly part with a color or two. Eventually you'll
discover that you don't even like that old color as much as you thought you did;
you were probably led astray by fashion or by someone else's taste.
Perhaps you feel limited by the thought of wearing only one set of colors. In
reality, however, you will have more options than you've ever had before. Most
men are bored by conventional dress codes. Although you may make only subtle
changes in your business attire, your sports and leisure clothes will now offer
you a wider range of new colors. No need to be afraid of trying them—you know
you'll look great!
The biggest bonus in finding your colors is the freedom it brings. Using your
chart, you'll spend less time and energy shopping, yet you'll have more confidence
than ever before in what you buy and how you look. You'll know what to look
for and what to leave on the racks. You'll have a wardrobe of clothes you really
like, with something appropriate for any occasion. Your colors will simplify your
life, leaving your valuable time free for other pursuits.
Now go on to the exciting part—finding your colors!
CHAPTER

4
DETERMINING YOUR
SEASON: THE COLOR
TEST

T o find your season, you'll need to take a three-step test:

1. Assess your color history.

2. Evaluate your skin tone, hair color, and eye color.
3. Test yourself in colors (optional).

You can take this test by yourself, or you can ask others to help you. It's hard for
us to be objective about ourselves, and other opinions can be helpful.
If you're not a do-it-yourselfer, you may want to skip this chapter entirely and
go to a consultant for a personal color analysis. Information on consultations is
included in the back of this book. Once you know your season, you can use the
rest of the book to create an image that will truly reflect you.

STEP 1: YOUR COLOR HISTORY

Here we want to find key colors you feel you have consistently worn with success
throughout your lifetime. This test is not based on image, but purely on flattering
your face. Image is important, but it comes after you know your season.
44/COLOR FOR MEN

Think of Your Most Successful Clothes

First, think of compliments you've received. Are people particularly responsive
to you when you wear a certain suit or shirt? Don't dwell only on the clothes
currently hanging in your closet. They may be right, but they may reflect this
year's fashion rather than colors that truly flatter.
What colors made you feel good as a kid? Your intuition was probably better
then, because you weren't yet influenced by the dictates of the adult male world.
One word of caution: if your mother bought all your clothes and she is a different
season, she may have dressed you in her colors all through your childhood.
Now think of yourself in your favorite weekend clothes. Because of the business
dress code, men often pick the Winter or Summer palettes because these seasons
contain the most "corporate" colors. When a man tells me he thinks he's a Winter,
but all his casual weekend clothes are browns and beiges, I can be almost certain
that this man is an Autumn, simply dressing in grays and blues during the work-
week and wearing what he really looks good in on the weekends.

Select a Column
Now look at the groups of colors below and select the one you feel is most flattering
to you. Think of all the colors in the columns as a casual shirt, turtleneck, or
sweater. Pick the group containing the most colors that have brought you com-
pliments all your life—even if you're tired of wearing them. This test is based on
comparison. Each column may have some colors that you have worn, but do they
all look equally good on you? Ask yourself, "Which group is best?"

WINTER SUMMER AUTUMN SPRING

T
Navy Grayed Navy \ Dark Brown Camel
Black /i Blue-Gray | Rust Golden Brown
Charcoal Gray Sky Blue i Khaki Light Clear Blue
Burgundy Rose-Brown / Forest Green Bright Blue
Royal Blue Burgundy Olive Green Turquoise
Red. Pink Dark Peach Peach
Pure White Soft White Oyster White Ivory

After you select one column, turn to that season's color chart in Chapter 3. Does
the whole palette seem to suit you? If you feel pretty confident of your choice,
go on to Step 2.
 DETERMINING YOUR SEASON/45

IF YOU'RE UNSURE

If you are deciding between two seasons, check out the color charts for both.
Which one is more you? If you're stuck between two seasons, ask yourself the
following questions:

If you are deciding between

Winter and Autumn, ask:
Does my face look better when I'm wearing a navy jacket, white shirt, and red
tie (Winter) or, say, a brown tweedy jacket, beige shirt, and rust tie (Autumn)?
Do I need clear, strong colors (Winter), or can I wear muted earth tones (Autumn)?
Brown-eyed Winters sometimes mistake themselves for Autumns. A Winter looks
good only in a very dark black-brown (not on Winter's color chart). All other
browns are boring on a Winter.

Winter and Summer, ask:

Do I look better in a bright white shirt (Winter) or an oxford blue shirt (Summer)
with my gray suit? Can I wear dusty pastel colors (Summer), or do these muted
colors make me look washed out (Winter)?
Autumn and Summer, ask:
Do I look absolutely great in dark peach, rust, and brown (Autumn), or am I much
better in light blue, blue-tone pinks and burgundy (Summer)? What color sweater
would you buy?

Autumn and Spring, ask:

Do I look great in dark brown and bittersweet red as well as in muted colors like
mustard and olive green (Autumn), or am I better in clear, medium colors like
medium golden brown, clear red, light orange and light clear gold (Spring)? The
Spring man will look drab in muted, grayed colors, while the Autumn man looks
brassy in the clear, brighter colors that so flatter the Spring. If neither of these
seasons seems to be working, try Summer. Sometimes it's that camel coat that
led you to choose Autumn or Spring. Summer also has beiges and browns and a
type of earth quality of its own.
46/COLOR FOR MEN

Spring and Summer, ask:

Does my face look better in camel, golden brown, salmon, and bright blue (Spring),
or in grayed rose-brown, burgundy, blue-toned pinks, and medium blue (Sum-
mer)? Remember it's your face, not your image, that counts here.
Spring and Winter, ask:
Do I look great in a camel jacket (Spring), or do I look much better in a dark navy
(Winter)? Am I really terrific in ivory and golden browns (Spring), or am I better
in white and dark colors (Winter)? A Winter man usually recognizes quickly how
bad his face looks in camel.

STEP 2: EVALUATING YOUR COLORING—SKIN TONE, HAIR

AND EYES
In this step you will examine your coloring to see if it confirms your choice in
Step 1.
First, take a good look at your skin tone, hair color, and eye color. Study yourself
in a mirror, preferably in natural daylight. Give yourself a close shave so your
facial tone is not influenced by the color of your beard. A man with a heavy beard
will have to look at other parts of his body. If you color your hair to cover gray
or for any other reason, you will need to remember your natural hair color.
Your skin tone is the most influential factor in determining what colors look
best on you. Because the skin is translucent, it is actually the tone just under its
surface that determines whether your coloring is warm or cool. The cool seasons,
Winter and Summer, have a blue or grayish undertone to the skin, while the warm
Autumns and Springs have a golden or peach undertone.
Some people's skin tone is obvious, but for others the reading can be confusing
and require a trained eye. Don't worry if you can't get a clear determination of
your skin tone; it is only one part of the test and the other steps will give you
enough information to make a decision. Comparison is helpful. Hold a piece of
white paper against your palm or your stomach. Is your skin pink or even grayish
next to the white, or does it have an ivory or peach cast?
Caution: Be careful not to confuse sallowness with a golden skin tone. Many
people have sallow skin, which appears yellow on the surface regardless of the
undertone. These people are often Winters and will turn even more sallow wear-
ing golden-based colors.
 DETERMINING YOUR SEASON/47

In addition, ruddiness can be confusing. In a ruddy complexion, the capillaries

are very close to the surface of the skin, giving an intense pinkness to the face,
especially the cheeks and nose. This should not be confused with a blue under-
tone, as, ironically, ruddiness occurs most often in Autumns and Springs, the
warm seasons. Here it's best to look at your chest and stomach.
On the following pages are more complete descriptions of skin tone, hair, and
eyes for each season. Read only the season you [Link] Step 1. If it fits, you
can skip Step 3 and go on with the rest of the book. If it doesn't fit, then read the
description of your second choice from Step 1. After weighing your answers to
Steps 1 and 2, and looking at the male prototypes in the previous chapter, pick
whichever season you feel most suits you.

Winter

SKIN: A Winter's blue undertone is often subtle and difficult to see. There are
many varieties of Winters, yet they all need the same cool colors to look their
best. The majority of Winters in the United States are those with gray-beige skin,
ranging from light to dark, usually with no visible pink in their skin. Most olive-
skinned people, blacks, and Orientals are Winters, though it is possible to find
Orientals and blacks in any of the seasons. Many Winters are sallow, appearing
yellow, and they misdiagnose themselves as Autumns. Wearing golden colors
increases their sallow complexion, while the cool Winter colors make the sal-
lowness disappear. A Winter may also have extremely white skin and dark hair.
The white may have a visible pink tone, but more often does not. Winters usually
do not have rosy cheeks.

HAIR: Winters usually have medium to dark brown or black hair, often glossy.
The Winter man tends to gray dramatically, either reaching a salt-and-pepper
stage or turning steely white. Hair that grays prematurely is a sign of Winter or
Summer. Winter hair usually has an ash tone, although sometimes the hair will
have red highlights visible in sunlight (this is not the metallic red seen in Autumn
hair, however). Occasionally a Winter had white-blond hair as a child, but it
turned dark by age five or six and is quite dark in adulthood. It is rare to see a
blond Winter adult, but when it happens, his hair is often very blond and he is
indeed a striking man.
48/COLOR FOR MEN

EYES: Winter eyes can be black-brown, red-brown, green, blue or hazel, and are
most often a deep color. The green or blue eyes of a Winter are distinguished by
white flecks in the iris and often a gray rim around the edge of the iris. The hazel-
eyed Winter usually has a brown smudge with jagged edges surrounding the pupil,
with either blue or green extending to the outer iris. Occasionally a green-eyed
Winter has a single thick yellow line going from the pupil to the edge of the iris
like a single spoke on a wheel. In general, all Winter eyes tend to have a look of
high contrast between the whites of the eyes and the iris. This clue is especially
helpful if you are deciding between Winter and Summer, as the white of a Summer
eye is usually much softer with less contrast to the iris.

WINTER PROTOTYPES: Burt Reynolds, Omar Sharif, Dustin Hoffman, Eddie

Murphy, Richard Nixon, Tom Brokaw, Eric Estrada, Christopher Reeve

WINTER CHECKLIST

Check the characteristics that describe you:

Skin: Very white

White with slight pink tone
Beige (no cheek color, may be sallow)
Gray-beige or brown
Rosy beige
Olive
Black (blue undertone)
Black (sallow)

Hair: Blue-black
Dark brown (may have red highlights)
Medium ash brown
Salt and pepper
Silver-gray
White blond (rare)
White
 DETERMINING YOUR SEASON/49

Eyes: Dark red-brown

Black-brown
Hazel (brown plus blue or green)
Gray-blue
Blue with white flecks in iris (may have gray rim)
Dark blue, violet
Gray-green
Green with white flecks in iris (may have gray rim)

Summer

SKIN: Summers often have visible pink in their skin, so it is easy to see the blue
undertone. Some Summers are very fair and pale and have little pink rings under
the skin on the whitest parts of their bodies. The skin may have [Link]
qmdity^Other Summers have rose-beige skin or sallow beige skin, making it hard
f o s e e the blue undertone. A sallow Summer makes an especially dramatic im-
provement in his appearance when he wears his cool colors. Black Summers have
a soft grayish tone to their skin, and their skin is fairly light.

HAIR: As a child, Summer is often blond, his hair color ranging from white
(towhead) to ash blond. While he is in his teens, his hair tends to darken, and
by high school it has usually turned a light ash (grayish) brown. Summer blonds
bleach quickly in the sun, so often a Summer man has brown hair in the wintertime
and blond hair in summertime. If he spends lots of time outdoors, his blond hair
may become golden, which can make him look deceptively like a Spring. (To
judge your hair color accurately, look at the roots. If they are not golden, you are
probably a Summer.) Brunette Summers also have hair with an ash tone, ranging
from light to dark brown. Usually a very dark-haired Summer has extremely light
skin, and visible pink in his cheeks. Occasionally a Summer has auburn hair
(slightly red-brown) and can be confused with an Autumn. A Summer usually
tans, while an Autumn more often burns. The Summer man's hair grays pleasantly
to a soft salt and pepper, a blue-gray, or a pearly white. Gray is a cool color and
blends well with the ash tones of his hair, giving him a distinguished look. (One
caution: On a Summer man, a beard or sideburns often grow in red. Use only the
hair on top of your head to do this analysis.)
SO/COLOR FOR MEN

EYES: Summer eyes are usually blue, green, gray or hazel, with a cloudy look to
the iris. Often there is a gray rim around the edge of the iris, or the entire eye
color looks grayed. Hazel eyes have a soft, grayed brown smudge around the pupil
with edges blending into blue or green. The iris in a blue or green eye has a white
webbing throughout, giving the appearance of cracked glass. Some Summers have
soft rose-brown or grayed brown eyes. The whites of a Summer's eyes are creamy,
in soft contrast to the iris, as opposed to a Winter, whose eyes have sharp contrast.

SUMMER PROTOTYPES: Prince Albert of Monaco, John Ritter, Paul Newman,

Johnny Carson, Christopher Atkins, Merv Griffin, Jimmy Stewart, David Hartman,
Alan Alda, Tab Hunter, Gavin MacLeod

SUMMER CHECKLIST

Check the characteristics that describe you:

Skin: Pale beige with pink cheeks

Beige with no cheek color (even sallow)
Rosy beige
Very pink
Gray-brown
Rosy brown
Hair: White blond
Ash blond
: Warm ash blond (slightly golden)
Dark ash blond
Ash brown
Dark brown (taupe tone)
Brown with auburn cast
Blue-gray
Pearl white
Eyes: Blue (with white webbing in iris, cloudy look)
v Green (with white webbing in iris, cloudy look)
Soft gray-blue
 DETERMINING YOUR SEASON/51

Soft gray-green
Bright, clear blue
Pale, clear aqua (eyes change from blue to green,
depending on clothes)
Hazel (cloudy brown smudge with blue or green)
Pale gray
Soft rose-brown
Grayed brown

Autumn

SKIN: Look for the golden undertone. Autumns come in three varieties: the fair-
skinned man with ivory or creamy peach skin; the true redhead, often with freck-
les; and the golden beige man whose skin ranges from medium to deep copper.
Many Autumns are pale and will look better in their darker or richer colors.
Autumn men often sunburn and cannot get a tan. Autumns and Springs often
have similar coloring, but the Autumn man usually has no cheek color, and the
Spring does. On the other hand, some Autumns are ruddy and may look pink,
but the pink is more peachy than blue. These Autumns look good in [Link] Summer
colors, but really come to life in the true Autumn palette. A few Orientals and
blacks are Autumns if they have a truly golden undertone, but most are other
seasons.

HAIR: Autumn's hair is usually touched with red or golden highlights. It ranges
from auburn to copper, strawberry blond to carrot-top, dark golden blond to warm
brown. Some blond Autumns have hair often referred to as "dirty blond," and
these men can easily be confused with Summer. A few swarthy Autumns have
charcoal black hair. Autumn hair, except for a few auburns and dark brunettes,
tends to have a matte rather than a shiny finish. The Autumn man usually does
not gray dramatically because the gray may detract from his warm-toned hair.
Once his hair has turned completely gray, it looks harmonious and has a warm,
golden cast. During the in-between stage, he may prefer to color the gray with a
warm tone as close to his original as possible.

EYES: Autumn eyes are usually golden brown, or green with orange or golden
streaks radiating from a star formation that surrounds the pupil. Sometimes there
52/COLOR FOR MEN

are isolated brown specks in the iris. Some Autumns have clear green eyes, like
glass, or deep olive green cat eyes. There are a few vivid blue (turquoise) and
steel blue Autumn eyes that are marked by a teal gray rim around the edge of the
iris. Occasionally an Autumn man has extremely pale blue or teal eyes, giving
the appearance of a clear ring around the pupil. He is a pastel Autumn, looking
best in the muted colors of the palette.

AUTUMN PROTOTYPES: Robert Redford, Dick Cavett, Red Skelton, Charlton

Heston, Franklin Delano Roosevelt, Woody Allen, General Douglas MacArthur,
William Marriott, Jr.

AUTUMN CHECKLIST

Check the characteristics that describe you:

Skin: Ivory
Ivory with freckles (usually redhead)
Peach
Peach with freckles (usually golden blond, brown)
Golden beige
Dark beige (coppery)
Golden brown
Hair: Red
Coppery brown
Auburn
Golden brown (dark honey)
Golden blond (honey)
"Dirty" blond
Strawberry blond
Charcoal brown or black
Golden gray
Oyster white
Eyes: Dark brown
Golden brown
Amber
 DETERMINING YOUR SEASON/53

Hazel (golden brown, green, gold)

Green (with brown or gold flecks)
Clear green
Olive green
Steel blue
Teal blue
Bright turquoise

Spring

SKIN: Look for the golden undertone. The Spring man's skin is either ivory,
peachy pink or golden beige, and he often has rosy cheeks or blushes easily. Some
Springs are ruddy and can easily be confused with Summers because of their
apparent pinkness. Even their knuckles may look purple. (If this describes you,
look at the parts of your body that aren't ruddy to see the true tone.) Freckles,
usually a golden tan color, come naturally to the Spring man. Other Springs have
clear, creamy skin. Even if he has freckles, the Spring man's skin usually has a
clear, bright quality. Black and Oriental Springs have light, golden skin.

HAIR: Spring's hair is flaxen blond, yellow blond, honey, strawberry, taffy red
or golden brown. Spring doesn't have ash-tone hair, as Summer does. In childhood
many Springs are blond, but their hair usually darkens with age. An occasional
Spring has dark brown hair. Gray usually arrives in a yellow or cream tone on
a Spring. If his hair is light, the gray often blends beautifully, making him look
"blond." On a dark-haired Spring, the gray may detract from the golden tone of
his hair. The Spring man may want to cover his gray until his hair is totally gray.
Once the two-tone look is gone, his gray hair is beautiful and has a pale, warm,
dove gray tone. Spring men often go from gray to a creamy white, a softly elegant
look for them.

EYES: Spring's eyes are most often blue, green, teal or aqua, often with golden
flecks in the iris. Some Spring men have eyes as clear as glass, giving the impres-
sion of a clear ring surrounding the pupil. Most Spring eyes have a "sunburst"
around the pupil. Inside the sunburst you may see a doughnut tightly surrounding
the pupil. Fibers radiate from the edge of the sunburst to the edge of the iris,
much like the spokes of a wheel. Some Springs have brown eyes, but they are
54/COLOR FOR MEN

always golden or topaz. A Spring's hazel eyes contain golden brown, green and
gold. A few Spring men have eyes of deep blue that appear to be steel gray from
a distance.

SPRING PROTOTYPES: Ron Howard, John Davidson, Tom Smothers, Jimmy

Carter, William Shatner, Michael Caine, Leslie Howard

SPRING CHECKLIST

Check the characteristics that describe you:

Skin: Creamy ivory

Ivory with golden freckles
Peach
Peach/pink (may have pink/purple knuckles)
Golden beige
Golden brown
Rosy cheeks (may blush easily)

Hair: Flaxen blond

Yellow blond
Honey blond
Strawberry blond (usually with freckles)
Strawberry redhead (usually with freckles)
Auburn
: Golden brown
Red-black (rare)
Dove gray
Creamy white

Eyes: Blue with white rays

Clear blue
Steel blue
Green with golden flecks
Clear green
Aqua
 DETERMINING YOUR SEASON/55

Teal
Golden brown

By now you should know your correct season. Do not be overly technical about
analyzing yourself. What looks good on you is the best test of all. If you want to
verify your choice or if you are still trying to decide between two seasons, take
Step 3 and see yourself in the colors. Otherwise go on to Chapter 5 to learn how
to use your colors.

(OPTIONAL) STEP 3: SEEING YOURSELF IN TEST COLORS

This is the at-home version of what we do in our consultations. Some people are
genetically on the cusp of two seasons, and holding the colors under your face
will help you see which season is best. You may look pretty good in some colors
from one season, but on the whole look better in another palette. Never judge by
one color alone.
This test is based on comparison. You should compare one color against an-
other, perhaps several times, to see which is better. In the box below, locate the
two seasons you are trying to decide between.

AUTUMN or WINTER SUMMER or SPRING

Brown or Navy Burgundy or Light Orange
Warm Beige or Pure White Rose-Brown or Golden Brown
Rust or Blue-Red Blue-Pink or Peach/Apricot

AUTUMN or SPRING SUMMER or WINTER

Dark Chocolate or Medium Golden Rose-Brown or Black

Brown Brown Soft White or Pure White
Mustard or Light Clear Gold Medium or Royal Blue
Khaki or Ivory Blue

AUTUMN or SUMMER WINTER or SPRING

Rust or Blue-Red Black or Camel

Moss Green or Blue-Green Pure White or Ivory
Teal Blue or Powder Blue Burgundy or Light Orange
56/COLOR FOR MEN

• Gather the colors of the two seasons in question. Any solid-color fabric will
do (shirts, towels, your wife's scarves, your child's T-shirts).
• Give yourself a close shave so you can really see your skin tone.
• Find a place with bright natural daylight, or bring a mirror to a window.
Fluorescent light changes the color of both your skin tone and the fabric
colors.

• Ask for some outside opinions (people tend to favor their own colors, so ask
more than one person in order to avoid individual bias).
• Hold the colors under your face, using the combinations suggested in the
box. Place the two test colors one on top of the other and hold them under
your face. Look at the effect of the top color for a few seconds, then peel the
top color off so you can see the effect of the second color. Repeat several
times. Then go on to the next two colors. Remember, this test is based on
comparison. One color may look okay, but the other will be better.

There are two rules:

1. Be objective. Try not to be influenced by your favorite and least favorite

colors.
2. Look at the face, not the color.

Here's what to look for as you compare the colors under your face:

RIGHT COLOR WRONG COLOR

The color smoothes and clarifies your The color may make your face look
face. It minimizes the beard line, shad- pale, sallow or "dirty." It will accen-
ows, and circles under the eyes. It tuate a heavy beard, lines, wrinkles or
makes wrinkles or lines at the side of shadows under the eyes. It will accen-
the mouth and nose blend smoothly tuate blotches or scars, if any. It dulls
into your face. It brings out a healthy your eyes. It may age your face, espe-
glow in your skin. It makes your eyes cially if you are over thirty. The color
sparkle. Your face pops forward, push- will look too strong or too weak, in
ing the color into the background. The either case pushing your face into the
color harmonizes with your face. background. The color does not har-
monize with your face.
 DETERMINING YOUR SEASON/57

Here are the questions I am most frequently asked:

Can I be more than one season?

Not really. Some men are on the cusp of two seasons, but with testing, one palette
will prove to be better than the other. Even if more than one color chart appeals
to you, you are doing yourself a disservice to mix the palettes. Each chart is
designed to create an automatically coordinated wardrobe, so "borrowing" from
different palettes defeats the system. Remember, your genes determine your skin
tone, hair color, and eye color, which in turn determine the colors that look best
on you. Your best colors are not a matter of taste, but of fact.

Does my season change with a tan?

No. Your genetically determined skin tone doesn't change, it simply darkens with
a tan or fades somewhat with age. The same seasonal palette will always be best
for you.
When you are tan you can wear "wrong" colors more successfully, but why do
it? You'll ruin your image and your wardrobe.

Does my season change when my hair gets gray?

No. However, once your hair is gray you may prefer to wear the lighter or softer
colors from your palette. Your most flattering neutral colors will be the ones that
harmonize with your hair—your season's grays and blues.

Now that you've assessed your color history, evaluated your coloring and pos-
sibly even tested yourself in colors, you should feel confident that you know your
correct season. With this the pleasure of wearing your colors begins! Try out your
season by wearing something you already own in your colors. Notice the response
you get. The compliments you receive will confirm your choice.
CHAPTER

5
UNDERSTANDING
YOUR COLORS

Y o u r seasonal color chart makes it easy to look good. But beyond

coordinating your wardrobe, your colors also define your image and express your
personality. Once you understand the colors themselves and have a concept of
your season, you will be able to determine which colors within your palette are
best for you, as well as to shop easily for your colors when you buy clothes. This
chapter will focus on individualizing your colors, on using your colors in business
and sportswear, and on understanding the colors themselves when you shop.

INDIVIDUALIZING YOUR COLORS

Your Coloring
By now you may be thinking, I'm a Winter with pale skin and John's a Winter,
too, but with dark olive skin. How can we both use the same color chart as a
guide?
Each season does encompass a wide range of people with different intensities
of coloring, but your season's color chart may be interpreted to suit you as an
individual. In our consultations, we drape each man in each color of his entire
 UNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/59

palette, using large pieces of fabric in order to see which colors are best. Most men
wear all their colors well, but some men, depending upon their hair color and
the depth of their skin tone, wear some colors better than others close to the face.
If you are fair, some of the brightest colors may overpower your face and are best
reserved for use as an accent in a tie or a striped shirt. By the same token, if you
look best in the stronger shades from your season, mix your paler colors and
neutrals with other, more intense colors. Use the pale colors as accent in prints
and away from the face. All your colors are valuable to you because they give
you infinite variety and the ability to build a coordinated and flattering wardrobe.

Your Personality
Your personality also influences how you will use your seasonal colors. Some
men are comfortable only in conservative colors, even in sportswear, while others
are more daring. Suit yourself. Each color chart has conservative as well as bold
colors. All the colors will flatter you, but you will be most successful when you
interpret your palette to reflect your personality.

Your Image
Your image is another consideration. Whatever your season, you can project the
image you desire. Each chart provides you with the opportunity to be authoritative
or low-key, sophisticated or casual, formal or informal. While one Autumn may
prefer to dress with high contrast and project an image of power, another Autumn
may want an elegant but understated monochromatic look.

Your Mood
And finally, each season can be interpreted so it reflects your mood. There are
colors in your palette to express any mood, on a daily basis or even in yearly
trends. You may spend several years in the mood for bright colors and then swing
to a desire for calm ones.
BO/COLOR FOR MEN

To truly individualize your colors, consider:

1. The intensity of your coloring. Is your coloring strong or subtle?
2. Your personality. Are you conservative or daring?
3. Your desired image. Do you want to project an image that's
authoritative or low-key, sophisticated or casual, formal or
informal?
4. Your mood.

USING YOUR BUSINESS COLORS

In many professions, men want an image that conveys power and authority on
some days and the cooperative team player on others. Many men work in offices
and shops that require a degree of conformity to a standard dress code. A well-
groomed, conservative image is the most effective. If you happen to work at a
profession or in a business that allows more individual style—journalism, for
example, or advertising—you can afford to be less conservative.
American businessmen have traditionally dressed in navy and gray, but not all
men can wear the standard business colors with equal success. You need to adapt
the image appropriate for your profession to your season so that you can both
look good and project your desired image.
Keep in mind the following general rules to make your business dressing ef-
fective and attractive:

1. When your goal is to convey authority, wear your season's dark colors. Navy
is the favorite, but Autumns may want to consider charcoal brown.
2. Wear your season's grays and/or tans when you want a lower-key image. A
sport coat, if your profession allows it, is always less serious or authoritative
than a suit.
3. Create the strongest overall image for you by wearing the right colors for
you. You can make subtle adjustments to your business wardrobe without
having to break the dress code of your work environment. Be sure to wear
the right colors in your shirt and tie. You'll look better, and consequently
others will see you more favorably.
 UNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/61

USING YOUR COLORS IN SPORTS CLOTHES

The world of casual dressing ranges from sporty to natty, high fashion to preppie,
rugged to sensual. Here is your chance to explore your colors and your character
freely. The Brights on your chart offer a bounty of special sporty colors. By using
them as accents or in combination with more subdued Neutrals and Lights, you
can find new ways of expressing your style.
The safest way to wear your Brights is to buy your pants in neutral, conservative
colors and try the bright or unusual colors in shirts. If you have an outgoing,
unconventional personality, then you can go all the way with colorful pants and
sport coats. You will still look tasteful as long as you stick to your palette because
the colors will go together and will go with you. The only time you'll call negative
attention to yourself is if you wear a daring color that is wrong for you.
If you want to try a color but aren't sure you will feel comfortable wearing it,
buy it in an inexpensive T-shirt. When you get compliments, you will start liking
that color!
For romance, think pink or peach, depending on your season. It's true! Women
love a man in a pink shirt over candlelight. Try it!
Following is a basic explanation of each season's colors. Because it is difficult
to print the color swatches 100 percent accurately, these verbal descriptions will
help you understand the concept of your colors when you shop for clothes.* In
addition, I've added specific information for each season on individualizing your
colors—as well as how to use your colors for business clothes and sportswear.
Read only your season, then skip to the end of this chapter, where you will find
a chart comparing your colors with those of the other seasons. You may also want
to review the color comparison chart on pages 8 4 - 8 6 .

WINTER
When you shop, think: CONTRAST
SHARP
TRUE OR BLUE UNDERTONE
VIVID
ICY

Winter colors are intense. Your Winter image depends on sharp contrast and clear
colors. A clear color looks pure and "clean." Never wear anything dull or muted,
especially in ties. Look for the sharp navies and reds rather than the muted ones.
* Directions for using the color chart to select clothes are in the Shopping chapter, pp. 199-203
62/CQLOR FOR MEN

In general you wear dark colors, vivid colors, or very light, icy colors—no pastels
for you.

THE WINTER PALETTE

• White Winter is the only season with pure white. A Winter
man is never boring in a white shirt! You can also wear
Summer's soft white (but not ivory or yellowish
white), though it will not be quite as dashing on you
as the bright white.

• Black Winter is also the only season who can wear black.
You look great in dark colors, and any of your colors
may get darker and darker until they look almost black.

• Gray Your grays range from charcoal to icy gray. They must
be true grays, not yellowish or blue. Once your hair
has turned completely gray, you may add blue grays
to your palette.

• Taupe (Gray-Beige) Your beige is not tan-toned but gray-beige (taupe).

When worn near the face, it must be light and clear.
You may choose a darker shade in pants, shoes, and
leather goods. Beige in general is a difficult color for
a Winter to wear.

• Blue Navy blue is excellent on you. You may wear any

shade of navy near the face except grayed navy. Your
other blues are true, royal, Chinese, and turquoise, all
deep or bright.

• Red Winter's reds are either true red or blue-reds, including

burgundy. Your burgundy must be clear, sharp, and
bright, rather than a muted or brownish tone.

• Green Your greens range from a true green to emerald to pine.

Pine is similar to Autumn's forest green except that it
 UNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/63

has a blue cast rather than a yellow tone. You can see
this difference by comparing the two colors side by
side. Winter men who previously never liked green
often discover that they love their greens.

• Yellow Your yellow is special. You can wear only a clear

lemon yellow that does not verge the least bit on gold.
Stick closely to your swatch when shopping for your
yellow. It's hard to find.

• Pink and Purple Winter's pinks and purples are deep colors. The shock-
ing and deep hot pink are less conservative, while ma-
genta and fuchsia are quite sophisticated colors.

• Icy colors Icy colors are unique to the Winter palette. You can
wear any of your colors in an icy version, including
taupe and gray. An icy color is clear and sharp, like
wearing white with a hint of color added. Your icy
colors are blue, violet, pink, green, yellow, and aqua.
Be careful not to accidentally buy a Summer's pastel
shirt instead of your icy tone. You will lose the sharp
contrast that brightens your face and makes your Win-
ter image so effective.

Avoid all colors with golden undertones, such as orange, rust, peach, gold, yellow-
green, orange-red, tans, and browns. If you must wear brown, choose a black-
brown that is dark enough to wear with black shoes and belt. Avoid pastels and
all dusty, muted colors. When shopping you may use your chart or color swatches
as a general guideline for all colors except your yellow and taupe (gray-beige),
which should be matched as closely as possible.

Individualizing Your Colors

The fair-skinned Winter man may find that soft white is better than pure white,
and may also find that the J c y and the darkest colors are better for him than the
true, bright colors (see Dale, p. 27). Dark-skinned Winters may find that taupe
and the light and medium grays are best when worn mixed with other, brighter
64/COLOR FOR MEN

colors near the face (see Danny, p. 26). Some Orientals and olive-skinned men
who are very sallow will not wear burgundy, fuchsia or their pinks as effectively
as their other colors. A Winter with sandy brown or gray hair may add powder
blue to his palette (see Ben, p. 26 and Tim, p. 27). Although it's a Summer color,
a lighter-haired Winter can wear it.

Business Colors
Winters have the easiest time shopping for standard business clothes. Black, navy,
and gray suits all look good on you. You may have trouble in the summertime,
however, finding your version of a "tan" suit. Every now and then your taupe
appears on the marketplace. Don't compromise. The usual tan suits look terrible
on a Winter.
Your best business shirt is white, but the icy colors under Lights in your chart
give you extra leeway for conservative yet stylish dressing. Icy blue, gray, and
yellow are suitable for business or dress. Icy pink and violet are suitable for some
business environments and are excellent for evening dress. Icy green is usually
best with a sport coat. Aqua is best with a tuxedo or in a sporty oxford cloth shirt.
You will usually find your icy colors in designer shirts. Most of the oxford button-
downs are too dark and will look drab on you. The usual blue business shirts are
best for Summers. If you can't find icy blue, then choose the lightest oxford blue
you can find.
Your best ties come from your red family. Any dark blue-red or bright burgundy
tie, solid or patterned, is an excellent business look for you, as is a dark navy tie,
especially if it has some red or white accents in it.
A taupe trenchcoat is hard to find, as most of the beige trenchcoats are not your
tone. If you can't find your gray-beige, consider navy or gray. Italian and German
trenchcoats often come in gray.

Sportswear Colors
You can't beat a Winter in a navy blazer. But for variety try a bright burgundy or
pine green blazer—preferably in a rich fabric such as cashmere or a fine wool.
That will make you feel better when you pass by the camel jackets, leaving them
on the rack for Springs or Autumns. Tweeds, even in your colors, usually don't
look as good on you as solids. A pair of gray or navy trousers will go with every-
thing in your palette.
 UNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/65

SUMMER
When you shop, think: BLENDED
SUBTLE
BLUE TONE
ROSE TONE

The Summer palette gains its strength from a harmonious blend of tones, even
in its most vivid shades. The Summer man's image is enhanced by soft contrasts
and subtle color combinations. His dark colors should be slightly grayed (muted)
in order to avoid looking harsh or overpowering his natural coloring. He can wear
either clear or muted colors in his pastel and medium shades.

THE SUMMER PALETTE

• Soft White The Summer man's most flattering white is a soft
(but not yellow) one. It is less "blue" than Winter's
pure white.

• Rose-Beige and Brown Your beige must always have a rose cast, rather
than an ivory or yellow tone. You can wear browns
from medium to darkish as long as they, too, are
rose-toned. Your browns are especially flattering if
they are muted (grayed).

• (Black) Summer does not have black, as it is overpowering

on the Summer man.

• Blue-Gray Summer may wear all blue-grays from light to dark,

but should avoid true grays or yellowish grays.
Grays devoid of blue will look dead on a Summer.

• Blue Your navy is a grayed navy, more flattering to you

than a bright or black navy. Unfortunately, your
navy is hard to find and you will often have to
compromise. You may wear almost all other blues,
light, medium, or dark, but not the extremely bright
or royal blues of Winter. Your blues may be clear
or muted, and your lighter blue suits will have lots
of gray in them. When using aqua-toned blues, keep
them soft. You can also wear periwinkle, a blue
with violet in it.

Your greens are all in the blue-green family, ranging

from a light pastel shirt color to medium blue-green
sport colors to a dark spruce green suitable for a
sport coat or slacks. Your spruce green, like your
navy, is a little grayer than Winter's. This spruce
green is especially good on brown-eyed Summers.

Summer's yellow is a light, lemon hue, ranging

from pastel to a slightly brighter shade. Avoid yel-
lows that are golden.

Your pinks are blue-toned pinks ranging from light

shirt colors to medium shades to deeper rose and
fuchsia colors. Although you may wear bright
pinks, be careful not to buy the intensely clear and
bright shades from the Winter chart.

Summer's reds range from raspberry to watermelon

to blue-reds. You may wear dark blue-red as well
as burgundy and all wine colors. Unlike Winter,
your reds may be either clear and bright or slightly
muted.

Plum is your version of purple. It is a grayed purple,

not as intense or as dark as the royal purple of Win-
ter. Lavender, orchid, and mauve are wonderful
colors for you, and they are easily found in both
light shades for dress shirts and slightly darker
shades for sportswear. You don't have to be careful
when selecting these colors. Use your swatches as
a guideline. If the fabric color blends with the
swatch, it's yours.
 UNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/67

Avoid pure white, camel, yellowish beiges, tans and browns, gold, orange, peach,
orange-reds, yellow-greens, and black. Use your chart or color swatches just as a
general guideline except when shopping for rose-beige and yellow, when you
should match the color as closely as possible.

Individualizing Your Colors

Fair Summers with blond or light hair should keep the darkest colors of burgundy,
spruce green, and dark blue-red as accents or use them in combination with a
mellowing shirt and tie (see Gordon, p. 30). These dark colors may be too strong
in a large amount right next to your face. Summers with dark brown hair are
particularly handsome in the dark colors and in the more vivid colors from the
Summer chart. This type of Summer just missed being a Winter (see Billy, p.
31). Brown-eyed and green-eyed Summers often look especially good in their
browns and greens and should keep their blues and grays mixed with other colors
for maximum impact (see John, p. 31). These Summers are close kin to Autumns,
having an earthy quality yet needing cool, blue-based colors to flatter, rather than
yellow-based ones.

Business Colors
The Summer palette, like that of Winter's, lends itself beautifully to the traditional
business colors. Although it's best to find a grayed navy suit when possible, almost
any navy that's not too blue and bright will do well for you when combined with
your best shirt and tie colors. Besides navy, you have a wide range of suits in
lighter blue shades. The medium brown suits that are most acceptable in business
are great for you—as long as they have a rose tone. Your summerweight "tan" is
hard to find. Occasionally you will find a suit in your rose-beige (your tan), but
most often the tan suits will be for Autumns. Don't compromise. The wrong tan
will look terrible on you. You do not wear black, but you can use your dark
charcoal blue-gray suit to serve as your black. Because of your relatively lighter
coloring, this gray will look dark and authoritative on you. Both your soft white
and your charcoal blue-gray will appear as strong within your color chart as black
and white do within the Winter chart. The impact of color is relative within the
season and works proportionately with your coloring to create a powerful image.
Be sure when buying a gray suit to choose a blue-gray. It's easy to spot the blue-
grays hanging on the racks when you compare them to the true and charcoal
grays.
68/COLOR FOR MEN

Your business shirts are easy to find. The majority of ready-made pastel shirts
are for you. All the blues as well as yellow and rose-beige are great for business,
in addition to your soft white. In some business situations you can wear your
pink or lavender shirts as well. You may even wear a light blue-gray shirt, es-
pecially if your hair is gray.
For ties, choose your burgundy and blue-red, either solids or patterns. Make
sure these reds are slightly toned down. Use watermelon red, which is brighter,
as a background color in a foulard tie. Your grayed navy and all shades of blue,
mixed with white, gray, silver, mauve, or yellow, are great business ties for you.
Your trenchcoat, like your summer suit, may be hard to find in rose-beige. If
you can't find one, consider navy.

Sportswear Colors
A navy blazer is a great look for you, especially with a blue shirt. For variety you
might want to try a spruce green or burgundy blazer in the wintertime or a medium
blue, periwinkle, or other pastel shade in a summerweight blazer. Many Summers,
because of their softer coloring, look great in soft tweeds or even plaids in blue
and gray, or brown and blue combinations. A pair of blue-gray trousers will go
with almost everything in your palette. If you favor your browns, buy a pair of
cocoa slacks for maximum versatility.

AUTUMN
When you shop, think: WARM
RICH
SPICY
GOLDEN UNDERTONES
EARTH TONES

Autumn colors can be either clear or muted, but always have warm golden un-
dertones. A clear color looks pure and clean; a muted color is toned down by the
addition of brown, gray, or gold. Most Autumns prefer their medium or bright
colors slightly muted. The Autumn chart gains its power from an artful combi-
nation of blended tones with the more assertive, dark colors.
 UNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/69

THE AUTUMN PALETTE

• Oyster White Your best white is oyster (beigish white). You may also
wear ivory (a yellowish white) and the soft white from
the Summer palette, but never pure white. It will make
you look pale.

• (Black and Gray) You have no black or gray, so you will need to use dark
charcoal brown as your black or charcoal gray and cof-
fee brown as your gray. Coffee is any brown that has
gray added.

• Brown and Beige All your beiges and browns are warm earth tones. Your
dark chocolate brown and mahogany are rich colors.
Camels, khakis, and tans are also good for you. Your
bronze is an unusual color, flattering to an Autumn
only.

• Blue A marine navy is the only navy that truly flatters the
Autumn man. It is a navy tinged with teal or the color
of the sea, and it's hard to find. You can wear any kind
of teal blue, though the darker and richer the color, the
better. Your turquoise is medium to dark and has warm
yellow undertones. By comparing turquoises in the
store, you can see that some are clear and bright (not
for you), while others are yellower and slightly
muted—again a full-bodied color. Periwinkle is a blue
with a violet cast. In general, you look best in a deep
periwinkle.

• Green Your greens range from dark forest green to olive, jade,
and grayed greens. You can wear any green that has a
golden tone, from subtle to bright. A light, grayed green
is excellent.

• Gold and Yellow Your golden-colors are plentiful. Choose gold in a qual-
ity fabric or this color may have an inexpensive look.
70/COLOR FOR MEN

You can wear any shade of gold, from light buff to mus-
tard to a bright yellow-gold.

• Orange Your oranges include terra-cotta and rust colors, which

are easy to find in all types of clothing. Your pumpkin
and bright orange are sport colors, good in prints or in
solids for the less conservative.

• Peach and Salmon Your best peach, apricot, and salmon shades are deep.
Use the light versions mixed with darker or brighter
colors to add oomph. Salmon is your version of pink.

• Red You may wear any red with an orange base, ranging
from bright orange-red to bittersweet and dark tomato
(more muted shades). Your reds may get brownish, re-
sembling maroon. Avoid burgundy, as it is too "blue"
and harsh for you, thus bringing out any lines in your
face.

Avoid pure white, black, and gray. Avoid all pinks, burgundies, blue-reds, or
colors with blue undertones. Keep your pastel colors, as well as peach, salmon,
and periwinkle, a medium to dark shade when worn alone near the face (i.e.,
without the benefit of suit and tie). You may use your chart or color swatches as
a general guideline except when shopping for navy and periwinkle, when you
should try to match the color as closely as possible.

Individualizing Your Colors

A fair Autumn with light hair can be overwhelmed by some of the bright, clear
colors such as orange and orange-red, so the fair Autumn man should reserve
these for use in stripes and prints (see Stephen, p. 34). This is the Autumn man
who just missed being a Spring, but who needs more muted colors than the ones
in the Spring chart. Most dark-skinned Autumns will wear the more vivid colors
better than beige, khaki, olive, or grayed greens (see Addison, p. 34 and Richard,
p. 35). Autumns can be divided into three categories: the true Autumn, who wears
all the colors equally well; the muted Autumn (usually light-haired), who wears
the more subtle and muted colors best; and the strong Autumn (usually dark-
haired or brightly redheaded), who wears the dark and vivid colors best.
 UNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/71

Business Colors
Autumn colors do not fit the corporate mold. If you work in a business where
the usual navies and grays are standard, you will have to shop more carefully.
Marine navy is hard to find, though you may be able to find it through a tailor
and have a suit custom-made. If you must compromise on your navy, remember
to keep your tie and shirt in your season. You have a large selection of browns.
Medium browns are highly acceptable for business wear and come in beautiful
fabrics, especially in subtle patterns. For a larger selection than off the racks, go
to your favorite men's store and look at the swatches in the books used for selecting
custom-made suits. Your palette does not have gray. Use grayed browns to achieve
the same look. A charcoal brown suit has a very similar look to a charcoal gray,
and is especially powerful when coupled with a dark red tie from your palette.
Subtle business tweeds look especially good on you, and they favor your colors—
browns and greens. A little gray mixed in won't hurt, as long as the overall effect
is yours. (How to tell? If it blends with your shirt and tie, it's yours.) Autumns
are the lucky ones who get all the great tan suits in summertime. In addition,
you'll find greens and bronzes in summerweight suits.
Business shirt colors are also harder for the Autumn man to find. Try to find
oyster white. You can also wear Summer's soft white or Spring's ivory, but oyster
will be your best. (I know one Autumn who dipped his white shirt in weak tea.
It worked!) Your beige, buff, and light periwinkle are good business colors, and
in some work environments you can wear peach and grayed green. Be careful
when you are shopping for a periwinkle blue dress shirt not to buy powder blue
by accident. Periwinkle has more violet in it and is much more flattering; powder
blue will make your face look pale. You can easily see the difference when you
shop, as powder blue will clash with the periwinkle of your chart or swatch.
Reds and navies are the favorite business ties. Be sure you select your warm
reds and not the blue-toned reds or burgundies. A dark, muted bittersweet or
brownish red is your best. A brighter red is okay if it is used as a background for
a print. Use navy only as an accent, since it's hard to find your Autumn shade.
Experiment with browns, periwinkles, rust, and even your darker greens. All are
acceptable for business.
A trenchcoat for you is no problem to find, as most traditional coats are in your
tans.
72/COLOR FOR MEN

Sportswear Colors
In country, elegant or casual clothes, Autumn has the easiest shopping of all the
seasons. Your colors are readily available, and the Autumn palette lends itself
beautifully to sporty attire. In fact, the tans and khakis that are every man's ideal
look good only on Autumns, so you can console yourself when you are searching
harder to buy business clothes. You are dynamite in a rich brown tweed sport
coat with texture, and if you are blond or honey-haired, you will shine in a camel
jacket. Camel is not as good as a darker color on the brunette Autumns. Wear lots
of leather and leather trim in any of your browns. A pair of brown or tan trousers
will go with everything in your palette.

SPRING
When you shop, think: WARM
YELLOW UNDERTONES
CLEAR
LIGHT TO BRIGHT
ALIVE

The Spring palette is warm and energetic. The Spring man's colors are friendly
and extroverted, as are most Spring personalities. You do not wear dark or heavy
colors well, so strive for medium-dark to light shades. All your colors must be
clear, which means they look pure and clean. Avoid muted (grayed down) colors,
as you will look washed out in them.

THE SPRING PALETTE

• Ivory (White) The Spring man's best white is ivory, a creamy white.
He may also wear Summer's soft white, but not Winter's
pure white, which will make him look pale.

• (Black) Spring has no black, as it overpowers his coloring.

• Gray Your grays must be clear and warm (yellow undertones)

and have a bright, crisp quality. Even in wintertime you
should avoid dark grays. Light grays are your very best.
A medium gray will look darkish on you because of your
light coloring.
(Text continues on p. 81.J
 UNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/73

WINTER FORMAL

i| §l |l gi pi 1

With the Color for Men System, you have an automatically coordinated wardrobe, with fewer clothes,
but more versatility. Here, the Winter man's navy semi-solid suit is shown with seven shirt and tie com-
binations. The four icy shirts are unique to the Winter palette: icy violet, icy gray, icy blue, and icy pink.
74/COLOR FOR MEN

WINTER CASUAL

This gray, black, and white herringbone sport coat and charcoal gray slacks go with almost every color
in the Winter man's palette. The Winter man's sportswear can be subtle or colorful, according to his
personality.
 UNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/75

SUMMER FORMAL

Look at the variety the Summer man can have with just one suit. This charcoal gray and blue semi-
solid suit goes easily with seven different color shirts and ties from his palette for seven totally different
looks (and more!).
76/COLOR FOR MEN

SUMMER CASUAL

A beautiful gray-blue sport coat, a sampling of shirts in stripes, plaids, and checks from his palette,
a couple of ties, some brightly colored polos and a pair of navy slacks give the Summer man an exciting
wardrobe of casual to dressy sportswear.
 UNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/77

AUTUMN FORMAL

This rich charcoal brown semi-solid is Autumn's "power" suit. It complements the Autumn man's
coloring and harmonizes beautifully with the shirt colors. Notice how he can bring many colors into
his shirts and ties—blue, peach, buff, beige, red, tan, olive, and rust, to go with one suit.
78/COLOR FOR MEN

AUTUMN CASUAL

By choosing a brown tweed sport coat with multi-colored flecks, the Autumn man can have a variety
of colorful, but harmonious looks. All the colors from his palette go together because all have a warm
undertone. Autumn's sportswear has a rich and elegant look.
 UNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/79

SPRING FORMAL

A camel-colored suit on a Spring man is elegant and versatile. He can combine it with shirts of ivory,
buff, and beige for a conservative look or with yellow, peach, and warm pink for more color. The
Spring color chart provides many tie colors that work well with this suit.
8Q/C0L0R FOR MEN

SPRING CASUAL

Spring has a wonderful array of colors for sportswrear. With this golden brown sport coat and pants,
he can wear any color shirt from his palette. For dressy sportswear, his jacket will go beautifully with
the formal shirts. For casual wear, he combines it with colorful sweaters, polos, plaids, and stripes.
 UNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/81

• Blue Your most flattering navy is a light, bright one. The next
best is a darker but still bright and clear navy. Your other
blues range from a light true blue to periwinkle blues,
which are blues with a violet tone. Your aquas and tur-
quoises are plentiful, ranging from medium to bright. A
light clear blue is good on a Spring man. Avoid any blue
that is too pale or powdered. You look best in blues with
depth or brightness.

Brown and Beige Your beiges and browns range from ivory to clear warm
beige to golden tan, camel, medium golden brown, and
chocolate brown. You do not wear dark browns or the
grayed coffee browns. Be sure to avoid wearing any
muted or muddy tans, such as khaki, near your face. You
can wear khaki in pants.

Gold and Yellow Your gold is light and clear. Buff and chamois colors are
wonderful for you, as is bright golden yellow.

Red The Spring man's reds are either orange-reds or clear

reds. Dark reds are harsh and aging to your face, so they
should be avoided. Spring may also wear light rust.

Green Yellow-greens are for you, ranging from pastel to bright.

• Pink and Peach All shades of peach, apricot, coral, salmon, and warm
pink are for you. You don't have to be the least bit careful
when choosing clothing in this color family. You wear
them from light shades to medium and bright ones. Warm
pinks are the ones with yellow in them, easy to see when
compared to blue pink.

• Orange Your orange is fairly light, never as bright as Autumn's

orange.
82/COLOR FOR MEN

• Violet Medium violet is your version of purple. Avoid darker

purples; they will look too harsh with a Spring man's
coloring.

Individualizing Your Colors

Most Springs have good color in their cheeks and therefore wear all their colors
well. If you are a very fair, blond Spring, you will find that your brightest yellow
and yellow-green are too strong in a large amount (see Joe, p. 38). If you are a
dark-haired Spring, you may find that your camel and palest colors look best
when mixed with a more vivid color (see Lowell, p. 38).

Business Colors
Spring has the hardest time assembling a business wardrobe because the Spring
man's coloring demands medium to light colors and is easily overpowered by
dark colors. Try to find the brightest, liveliest navy you can. Avoid very grayed
navies. Your best gray is a light warm gray, usually found in summertime. Medium
warm gray is as dark as you should go. Bear in mind that because of your lighter
coloring, a medium gray will look dark on you. Color is relative. (If you must
compromise on either your navy or your gray suit, be sure you wear a shirt and
tie from your season.) Spring can wear blue suits in lighter shades than navy, as
long as the suit looks alive rather than drab. You rarely find a medium golden
brown wool suit fabric, but you will find chocolate brown as well as tweeds with
golden tones. Again, in business suits, you may have to compromise and verge
a bit into Autumn's browns—keeping your shirt and tie in your colors, of course.
Like Autumn, you may need to have your business suits custom-made to take
advantage of the wider selection of fabrics. In summertime you will find that some
of the tan suits are clear and warm—just right for you. A camel summertime suit
is great, if you can find it in a business style.
Business shirts are easy for you to find. Your ivory, light warm beige, buff, and
light periwinkle blues are excellent for business wear. In addition, you may wear
Summer's soft white (but not Winter's pure white—you'll look pale). Your peach,
apricot, and warm pink shirts are acceptable in some work environments, and
they're great as dress shirts for social wear.
Choose a red tie as often as you can. Because your orange-red is so bright, it
will be more suitable for business when used as a background for a print. Your
light clear navy is great too, as is a light true blue or dark periwinkle. Shades of
 UNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/83

golden tan, camel, or buff are fine for business, as is light rust or even teal.
A trenchcoat for you is a bit hard to find because most of the beiges are darkish
and muted. Choose a beige that is light and clear, if possible. Also consider a
brightish navy.

Sportswear Colors
Here you shine! What man doesn't want a camel sport coat? But you're the one
who really looks terrific in it. Your golden browns and tans also appear frequently
in sport coats, both as solids and in tweeds. Sport shirts for you offer wide se-
lections in stripes and plaids, and Spring colors abound in brightly colored polo
shirts. Most Springs enjoy their bright colors! A pair of trousers in beige or golden
brown will go with everything in your palette. A special bonus for Spring is your
perpetually youthful look—more than compensation for the fact that you have
to work harder to assemble a business wardrobe.
 WINTER SUMMER AUTUMN SPRING

White Pure White Soft White Oyster White Ivory

Beige Taupe (Gray-Beige) Rose-Beiges, Warm Beiges Light Warm Beige

Light to Medium Gold-Toned Beiges, Creamy Beiges,
including Camel including Camel

Gray True Grays, Icy to Blue-Grays, Light to No Gray Warm (Yellow) Grays,
Charcoal Charcoal Light to Medium

Brown No Brown Rose-Browns Most Browns: Chocolate Brown

No Tan Cocoa Charcoal, Medium Golden
Chocolate, Coffee, Browns
Mahogany Golden Tans
Most Tans:
Khaki/Tan,
Medium Warm
Bronze
1

Black Black No Black No Black No Black

Navy Any Navy Grayed Navy Marine Navy Light Clear Navy
Clear Bright Navy
 UNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/85

CD

o a
CD <D ^
£03 MFH £
CD
•I—I -t_J
<D
2 ^03 O .2P
3 Pcd 3 DO i t-1
5 & m
|cr 3-c«
O
>
_ CD CD .2 o
cd M o ® PFH 03 p—i
<D E
H H 5FH <FH £00
>H ^
£ « FH fg
og cfl -3 cd cd
.SP © DO
•l-H
DO
(
(D J o 03 PH

J O. HJ l-J w u U
2
ADO DO
CD

2 a CD CD
(D flO A
© Mrn
m o (D O -M ©
3 O (CDD 03 ^ ^ h* ©

(Z| -M • rH a(-H 2 -S? |

rj op
P 1 ° S<s CO O
— I cr m" O ~ C£DO -a03
c03d "G J^
OH
FH
(D P o
12 ~ 13 ~ cd
E- PL, H O ><

6 •C+D
»-
P P
Cd
CD
©
DO
P CD PL,
. a
T30 <D
M^ S C
pd
X!
DO
CD

JD g § ° rj

_ "2 o ) 3 § . . <
cr
C
FH
D CD CD O
M 2 3 £ CQ FH T3 ^£
CJ 7! ^ t CD © •p o p s
X! <D
" ^ 2 ^cd go i PQs
l »
U > ^© n2 3
^^ w >> © Cd ^ cd
CD

PQ C O PH U PH PL, O J PQ CO

03
03
0 F-i
a
03
CD <D
^03 o 03
<D O s a 03 a
£ 5 CD 2, m5 p 03
FH
^H
§
a CD
03
o
£h (D cdp
cr P"
cd F03
r w ©
PH O
FH
H H oo
« ZH
cd PQ 03 S O 03
<D
t i f Id >
2 o >> O ^ .^r
DO
2 sR r-j* ->-i
H P* £ J H H M DH

©
. CD
"op 03 PI
©
P cr
03 <D
P
FH
FH

PQ H PU o
86/COLOR FOR MEN

6
d
Fh
cd
-T3
CD
co P*
o
>>
<D
GO
o d
o T3 O
PH
d
cd
.a
Fh
a o CO
«
FH CO
.2P a d
d cd
Fh cd
*Fh 13 1
-S
GO
Fh
(D

O g xl U
< Dh
PQ ^ CO & ® u
6f-H fl PH
s ®s
£ a oQcdD •rFH1 »i-H
go
£ Cd
£
m
o
•2P15
Qh CD GO ^
cd o 2
J co ft PQ hJ £
u u u O u 2 J PQ

T3
(D a
PQ
U * >>
O
C * -2
oO * Sd
o
cd
H
H—
— »• "Eh d X!

o <ft
GO
d * | I S GO

Fh
Cd Ui d
o a g n
J <D

o co S
CO FFhh
cd
u
a cd m
PQ
o
Id
cd
d FH 2 O «
2
(D cd
< E- 1
CO O PQ P ^
o
~ 5
5

GO
g
ft
CD
CD
P CD
u g
CO M d
d cd
H
co
CO d CO d
<D
GO d
d
a ° JS >>
>>
T3
d
cd

^ft ft
.3 .2
d
^ Q Fh § o
cd
Fh CD
PJ © d
§ - O
o CD
CO
<D & S ^ ^
d
GO
Sj S u
* o O

o CO
cd O O * ^ a
® CD ft o
2 Ph P^ ft (—( cd PQ 2
> PQ P4

>>
T3
^ 44 1
1=1
g ; d
GO
ft Oh FH
-a
CO
CD
GO T3
•S s | .2 44
GO . d
d CD CD PQ -
cd
Fh d -4—• o
4H
P* P^
o 44 S co
U ft © ^ CD
i
CD
_G0
O

2
o A
co P& 2 £fo2
O V (D ¥
u Fh
H 3 "Eh
PQ 2
o

CD d
GO d
d 44 GO
FH 2
cd d
Fh <D o
o P*
d
PQ o
 PART

II
YOUR
CLOTHES,
YOUR
STYLE
CHAPTER

6
BUILDING A
WARDROBE:
CONTENT,
COLOR,
LIFESTYLE

It's time to put your colors to work and give yourself the pleasure
of a wardrobe that works for you.
In order to build a wardrobe, you need to start with a foundation. I call this
the Survival Wardrobe. The Survival Wardrobe is the clothing that every man
needs to go anywhere and feel and look good. It is simple, well-coordinated, easy
to shop for, and foolproof! When you combine your colors with an organized,
modular approach, you've got assembling a wardrobe down to a science. Whether
you are starting to build your wardrobe, correcting your current one, or making
a change in lifestyle, the Survival Wardrobe makes sure you'll never be caught
without something appropriate to wear.
90/COLOR FOR MEN

THE SURVIVAL WARDROBE

Getting Started
The effectiveness of your Survival Wardrobe (and the rest of your wardrobe, once
you get beyond the basics) is magnified when every single item is from your own
color palette. Because you probably have some wrong colors in your closet to
start with, your wardrobe will not be completely coordinated overnight. But if
you buy only your own colors from now on, you will gradually produce the
miracle of an automatically coordinated wardrobe.
Phasing out wrong colors can take a few years (those expensive suits!), de-
pending on what you currently own and how much you have to spend. In the
meantime, make your wrong-color suits and pants work by combining them with
shirts and ties from your palette. Get rid of your unflattering shirts and ties, how-
ever, if your budget possibly allows. The colors closest to your face count the
most.
You may find that there are certain items on the Survival List that you don't
need. Fine. Cross them off. One word of caution, however. Think twice before
crossing a suit off your list. It can take days, if not weeks, to buy a suit and have
it properly fitted. Some of my young college-bound clients tell me they have
absolutely no use for a suit. But I know of at least one young man who had to
attend a good friend's impromptu wedding wearing his father's ill-fitting, wrong-
color, stodgy old suit. He felt miserable. The secret of the Survival Wardrobe is
owning it before you need it.
Obviously you will need more than one of certain items, depending on your
lifestyle. We'll talk about quantity at the end of the chapter. For now the object
is to identify the gaps in your wardrobe.

The Survival List

The Survival List is summarized on pages 9 7 - 9 8 and includes all the items you
need to have a wardrobe that can take you anywhere. On the following pages, the
items are described in more detail. After you read the descriptions, use the list as
a shopping guide. Check off each item you already have in your color. This way
you can easily see what you don't have. If you live in an area of the country where
you have both hot and cold weather, you'll need to do this twice in order to assess
both your wintertime and summertime wardrobes. If you have an item that's
11 BUILDING A WARDROBE/91

perfectly wearable but not in the right color, put parentheses around it to indicate
you'll eventually phase it out. For now it will have to do.

The Survival Wardrobe

• Suit Your survival suit should be a three-piece solid-color neu-
tral in a wool or wool blend fabric. The cut should be con-
servative—an Ivy League or updated American cut—and
the suit should fit you to perfection. For maximum ver-
satility, choose a dark neutral so the suit will be dressy
enough for a wedding but also appropriate without the vest
for business or less formal social events. For summertime,
you might choose a lighter color and certainly a lighter
weight fabric.

• Sport Coat/ Choose your most flattering neutral in a solid color. Use
Blazer wool blends, corduroy, or ultrasuede for wintertime, and
hopsacks, cotton blends, light-weight wool or linen-look
fabrics for summertime. It's okay to buy a tweed or plaid
instead of a solid if you feel it's more you, but a patterned
sport coat will be less versatile with your shirts and ties.

• Slacks These are your dressy slacks. Buy a solid-color darkish neu-
tral in a wool or wool blend for wintertime, and a light to
medium shade in a lightweight wool blend or cotton/po-
lyester blend for summertime. These pants must go with
your sport coat and should be either lighter or darker than
the coat in order to make a good contrast. Winters and Sum-
mers will probably buy their grays; Autumns and Springs,
their tans and browns. Choose a plain style without pleats
or gimmicks. These slacks can go to work or a party when
worn with a sport coat, or to a football game with a checked
shirt and pullover sweater.

• Shirt I This-is your basic daytime shirt and should be in your sea-
son's white. (It's worth the extra effort for Autumns and
Springs to search for their harder-to-find shades of white.
It really makes a difference!) Choose oxford cloth with a
button-down collar or broadcloth with a plain collar, de-
pending on your personality. Oxford button-downs are
more casual. Summers and Springs could substitute a light
blue shirt in this category.

For dressier situations, buy a fine broadcloth, plain collar

shirt in white, white on white, or a subtle color from your
palette. If the shirt is colored, make sure it goes with both
the suit and the sport coat.

Your third shirt is more casual and can be worn with your
suit (without vest), your sport coat, and your slacks. Choose
either a solid color (oxford button-down is the most casual)
or a subtle check, plaid, or stripe. If your sport coat is pat-
terned, you will have to make sure the pattern in this shirt
is compatible, or stick to a solid-colored shirt.

Choose a solid tie in a deep basic color to go with suit, sport

coat, and all three shirts. If you have bought a patterned
Shirt III containing several colors, make sure the solid tie
picks up one of the colors in the shirt. When possible, you
should pick out the tie first and then the patterned shirt to
go with it.

This tie is patterned—a foulard (small repeat pattern), club,

or paisley—depending upon your personality. The back-
ground of this tie should be the red of your season, or one
of your deeper or brighter basic colors, with the pattern
picking up the color of either your suit or your shirt (or
both).

Your third tie should be striped. Most men can wear some
form of stripe, bold or subtle, depending upon personality.
Some portion of this tie must pick up the color of your suit
and, ideally, the color of your shirt as well. If stripes are
too severe for you, then buy one more tie from the Tie II
category.
 11 BUILDING A WARDROBE/93

• Belt Select a leather belt in a dark neutral that harmonizes with

your season. Winters and Summers should find a silver-
toned buckle, as silver is a cool color and looks sharper
with your palette. Autumns and Springs should choose a
gold-toned buckle to harmonize best with your palettes.

• Business/Dress Depending on your personality, buy either a leather oxford-

Shoes type lace-up (with or without wing tip) or a dressy loafer.
Choose a neutral color, preferably the same as your belt.
These shoes should go with your suit and slacks above.
Don't forget to buy mid-calf or knee-length dark socks so
skin doesn't show when you're sitting down with your legs
crossed.

• Casual Slacks These slacks are casual but not grubby. They can be cords,
chinos, cotton/polyester blends, or even a nice pair of jeans,
depending upon your lifestyle. You can wear your jeans or
cords with your sport coat if you are a casual sort of guy.
It's still best to buy your first pair of casual slacks in a
neutral color.

• Casual Shirt For wintertime, choose a turtleneck, a solid or plaid flannel

shirt, a long-sleeved polo, or whatever suits your fancy. For
summertime, a short-sleeved polo shirt will do fine. Now
you can have more fun with the color. Because you can
wear Shirts I and III with your casual pants, you can afford
to be less conservative with this casual shirt. Most people
need to have more than one casual shirt, no matter what
their lifestyles.

• Sweater Choose a favorite neutral or basic color to go with your nice

slacks, your casual slacks, and all your shirts. The sweater
can be a crewneck, V neck, or cardigan. In summertime you
may-want to skip the sweater, though a cotton knit or light-
weight wool is handy for breezy days or cool nights at the
beach.
94/COLOR FOR MEN

• Shorts These shorts are not for active sports but rather for com-
fortable, presentable wear in hot weather. They can be
short, mid-thigh, or just above the knee, depending upon
your personality, your age, and your legs. Buy any neutral
or basic color, or your season's white. A solid is best, but
plaid is okay as long as it goes with the short-sleeved polo
casual shirt. If the shorts are a solid color, you can wear
them with Shirt III and roll the sleeves up partway.

• Casual Belt Your casual belt may be leather, but it's fine here to have
a fabric belt, either plain or striped. If you decide on leather,
choose a wider belt. Here's a chance to express your per-
sonality. Buy a cowboy belt if that's your thing.

• Casual Shoes Loafers, Top-Siders, Wallabees, or any casual lace-up will

do here, depending on your comfort, age, and lifestyle. Ten-
nis shoes and boots (Italian or cowboy) fall into this cate-
gory. It is possible for some personality types to wear boots
with their dressy sportswear on social occasions, but never
in a corporate setting (unless you own the corporation).

• Hackarounds Everyone needs " o l d " clothes to hang around in on week-

ends, to paint the garage in, or whatever, and most people
already have plenty of these. The point is to keep only those
items that are in your colors. You may be spending 90 per-
cent of your casual time in these clothes, so why look awful
at home? T-shirts are inexpensive, so treat yourself to a new
one and ditch all your bad ones. Hackarounds, by the way,
are relatively sexy attire in the eyes of many women, and
it's hard to be sexy in the wrong color!

• Topcoat Ideally you would buy a wool or cashmere coat in the dress-
iest neutral color in your palette. The collar could be
trimmed in velvet or fur for maximum evening wear. In
cold climates, this coat can be worn for business, though
perhaps without the velvet. The lifestyle of most Americans
 11 BUILDING A WARDROBE/95

has become increasingly casual during the past decade, so

you may find that you can skip this purchase. If you attend
a really formal event only once a year, you may prefer to
freeze while running from your car to the occasion. A top-
coat is a major investment, so if you do buy one, choose
one in a classic style with no faddish details. You want this
coat to last.

• Trenchcoat The trench-type coat is probably a must for every man. Buy
one with a removable lining so you can use it year-round.
It is a perfect business coat and raincoat, and functions well
enough in the evening, except on really formal occasions.
Color? Either the tan or the navy of your season.

• Jacket Choose a parka, fur jacket, wool-lined jacket, or peacoat for

cold weather; a windbreaker, sweat jacket, or any light-
weight jacket for warmer weather or climates. Choose any
color from your palette. A neutral or basic color will go
with all your clothes, but a brighter color may add some
zip to your life.

• Cold Weather If you have cold winters, you will need gloves, a muffler,
Survival and possibly a hat. Buy the gloves and hat in neutrals to
go with the coat you wear most often. The muffler can be
solid or plaid in any color from your palette that makes
you feel good.

• Sports/Hobbies If you have a hobby or sport—such as tennis, jogging,

skiing, or swimming—that requires special attire, don't for-
get to add these to your own personal survival list. Since
shopping is so painful for some, you might as well pick up
these needed items while shopping for everything else.
Being organized keeps you from having to make many trips
to the store.
96/COLOR FOR MEN

• Personal Obviously a man needs underwear for survival, but I am

assuming that these personal items—plus pajamas, robe,
and slippers—are already part of your wardrobe, and get
replaced from time to time out of sheer necessity. One tip:
Have at least seven sets of underwear so you need to do
laundry only once a week. If you send your laundry out,
you'll need a two-week supply.

Finishing Touches
• Tuxedo I have not included a tuxedo in the Survival List because
most men rent one on the rare occasion it is needed. If
possible, rent a tuxedo in a color from your palette, but if
black is the only color acceptable in a given situation, then
at least pick a shirt in the most flattering white or pale color.
Any man whose lifestyle involves formal functions as part
of the routine would be well advised to buy a tux. If you
can get away with it, buy it in your color: navy for Springs
and Summers, charcoal brown for Autumn. Of course you
lucky Winters will outshine everyone else in black. Springs
would look best in a light, clear beige, if possible, but some
situations will require traditional black, or a dark color at
best.

• Accessories To complete your wardrobe you will need certain acces-

sories. Be sure your leather goods, umbrella, pocket hand-
kerchief, and other accessories are in colors from your pal-
ette. Why blow the harmony of your total look with one
off-key item?

• Fur When buying fur, choose a color similar to your hair, pref-
erably a shade lighter. The cool seasons should avoid red
tones in any fur. Autumns and Springs may wear a golden-
or red-toned fur if it blends with their hair.
 11 BUILDING A WARDROBE/97

• Jewelry Try to have your watch, rings, cuff links, tie tacks, and any
other jewelry or metals in the hue best for your season. As
with your belt buckle, choose silver or silver-toned metals
for Winter and Summer, and gold or gold-toned metals for
Autumn and Spring. Consider changing the buttons on
your sport coat, especially if you wear jewelry that would
clash. If you are a Winter or Summer and feel you must
wear gold, choose a tone that is subdued and not too yellow.
A bright yellow-gold will clash with everything you wear.
Of course your wedding ring stays as is.

THE SURVIVAL LIST

Check off each item you already have in your color. Then shop to fill in the blanks.

Cold Weather Warm Weather

Suit
Sport Coat/Blazer

Slacks
Shirt I (basic daytime)
Shirt II (more dressy)
Shirt III (more casual)

Tie I (solid)
Tie II (patterned)
Tie III (striped)
Belt

Business/Dress Shoes
98/COLOR FOR MEN

Cold Weather Warm Weather

Casual Slacks
Casual Shirt
Sweater
Shorts
Casual Belt

Casual Shoes

Hackarounds

Topcoat

Trenchcoat

Jacket

Sports/Hobbies

Colors for the Survival Wardrobe

On the following pages you will find suggested colors for the major purchases on
the Survival List. These are merely suggestions, showing how well everything
goes together. Notice that all the shirts go with all the ties, and all shirts and ties
go with the suit, sport coat, and slacks. Don't try to expand your wardrobe by
mixing your sport coat with the pants from your suit. This is not a good way to
stretch your budget, as suit pants usually are cut differently from slacks and are
made from different fabrics, even if the colors are compatible.
The Survival Wardrobe consists mainly of Neutral and Basic colors. In addition,
you will buy most of these items in solid colors. It may seem boring at first, but
I assure you this approach will give you the most variety from the fewest items
of clothing. As you expand your wardrobe to suit your lifestyle, you can add more
colors and patterns to your closet.
 11 BUILDING A WARDROBE/99

WINTER
Sample Colors for the Survival Wardrobe

Cold Weather Warm Weather

Suit Charcoal gray Navy

Sport Coat/Blazer Navy Navy

Slacks Charcoal gray Taupe

Shirt I (basic daytime) Pure white (oxford) White
Shirt II (more dressy) Pure white (broadcloth) Icy Pink

Shirt III (more casual) White with blue stripe White with gray stripe
Tie I (solid) Blue-red Bright burgundy
Tie II (patterned) Navy with white mini- Navy with pink and gray
dot motif

Tie III (striped) Bright burgundy, navy, Gray with navy, white,
and white and blue-red
Belt Black Black

Business/Dress Shoes Black Black

Casual Slacks Navy Taupe

Casual Shirt Burgundy, navy, gray Emerald green
plaid
Sweater Burgundy Lemon yellow

Casual Belt Navy (fabric) Dark taupe (fabric)

Casual Shoes Cordovan Cordovan

Topcoat Navy Not applicable

Trenchcoat Gray Gray
Jacket Navy True blue
lOO/COLOR FOR MEN

SUMMER
Sample Colors for the Survival Wardrobe

Cold Weather Warm Weather

Suit Charcoal gray Grayed navy
Sport Coat/Blazer Grayed navy Medium blue (linen)
Slacks Charcoal gray Navy
Shirt I (basic daytime) Blue (oxford) Soft white (oxford)
Shirt II (more dressy) Soft white Soft white
Shirt III (more casual) Sky blue and white Soft white with gray,
stripe navy, or burgundy
stripe
Tie I (solid) Burgundy Deep rose
Tie II (patterned) Watermelon red with sky Navy with gray and
blue and gray motif white motif

Tie III (striped) Rose and light blue-gray Mauve with navy and
white
Belt Black (or cordovan) Black (or cordovan)
Business/Dress Shoes Black (or cordovan) Black (or cordovan)

Casual Slacks Grayed blue Rose-beige

Casual Shirt Rose-pink Medium blue-green
Sweater Burgundy Light lemon yellow
Casual Belt Navy (fabric) Beige (fabric)
Casual Shoes Cordovan Cordovan (or Rose-
brown)

Topcoat Charcoal blue-gray Not applicable

Trenchcoat Grayed navy Grayed navy
Jacket Light blue-gray Grayed blue
 11 BUILDING A WARDROBE/96

AUTUMN
Sample Colors for the Survival Wardrobe

Cold Weather Warm Weather

Suit Charcoal brown Olive
Sport Coat/Blazer Camel Light tan

Slacks Dark chocolate brown Coffee

Shirt I (basic daytime) Warm beige Buff
Shirt II (more dressy) Oyster white Oyster white
Shirt III (more casual) Peach/apricot Light grayed green
Tie I (solid) Rust Bittersweet red

Tie II (patterned) Rust, camel, and oyster Olive with tan and red
paisley motif
Tie III (striped) Brown with rust and Brown, camel, and olive
oyster stripes
Belt Brown Brown
Business/Dress Shoes Brown Brown

Casual Slacks Coffee Khaki

Casual Shirt Teal blue Salmon
Sweater Warm beige Oyster
Casual Belt Tan (fabric) Tan (fabric)
Casual Shoes Cordovan Tan

Topcoat Camel Not applicable

Trenchcoat Khaki Khaki
Jacket Mahogany Coffee
1Q2/C0L0R FOR MEN

SPRING
Sample Colors for the Survival Wardrobe

Cold Weather Warm Weather

Suit Bright navy Light warm beige
Sport Coat/Blazer Camel Light clear navy
Slacks Medium golden brown Light tan/camel

Shirt I (basic daytime) Ivory (oxford) Light periwinkle blue

Shirt II (more dressy) Ivory (broadcloth) Ivory
Shirt III (more casual) Soft white with light rust Warm pastel pink
stripe

Tie I (solid) Light rust Navy (must blend with

blazer)
Tie II (patterned) Orange-red with navy Clear bright red with
and ivory motif beige and periwinkle
motif

Tie III (striped) Navy, rust, ivory, and Navy, clear red, ivory,
camel tan
Belt Cordovan Cordovan

Business/Dress Shoes Cordovan Cordovan

Casual Slacks Light clear navy Light warm beige

Casual Shirt Light clear gold Peach
Sweater Apricot Light periwinkle blue
Casual Belt Navy (fabric) Tan (fabric)

Casual Shoes Brown Tan

Topcoat Camel Not applicable

Trenchcoat Light warm beige Light warm beige

Jacket Medium golden brown Light true blue

 11 BUILDING A WARDROBE/103

BEYOND SURVIVAL: YOUR LIFESTYLE

After you have the essentials, you will need to expand certain categories according
to your lifestyle. The Survival Wardrobe applies to any man, but your own sit-
uation determines what you need to be comfortably outfitted beyond survival.
For the sake of determining quantity, I've identified four lifestyles:

1. The Corporate Man: Suit Every Day

2. The Professional Man: Suit or Sport Coat Every Day
3. The Casual Man
4. The Man in Uniform

See what quantity of each item you need to keep your life running smoothly, and
write the numbers on your Survival List, which then becomes your ideal shopping
guide.

The Corporate Man: Suit Every Day

You are the man whose job requires you to wear a suit to work every
day. You'll need six suits (at least three solids), twelve shirts, and ten
to fifteen ties, plus one or two sport coats and one or two slacks for
social wear. The suit-every-day man often has a big gap in his
wardrobe—plenty of suits, a pair of jeans, but nothing in between. Buy
two pairs of nice casual slacks and at least four casual shirts. And
don't forget some casual shoes to augment your wing tips and your
sneakers. You're used to being dressed up all the time, so pay special
attention to completing your casual wardrobe.

The Professional Man: Suit or Sport Coat Every Day

Your job allows you the flexibility of wearing either a suit or a sport
coat to work. Buy three suits (two solids), three sport coats, three pairs
of slacks, twelve shirts and ten to fifteen ties. Like the corporate man,
you need at least two pairs of casual slacks, four casual shirts, and a
pair of casual shoes for weekends or evenings that require more than a
pair of jeans.
104/COLOR FOR MEN

The Casual Man

You may be retired or you may have a job that calls for casual clothes
every day. Buy six pairs of casual slacks (at least half should be
washable), twelve casual shirts, and two pairs of casual shoes. If your
job or daily life allows for jeans and T-shirts, include them in the
casual wear suggested. Since you're wearing these every day, be sure
they are " n e w " and clean. There's a big difference between clean,
pressed jeans and ratty jeans and T-shirts with holes in them. To
complete your wardrobe, add one suit (solid color) for dress, two sport
coats and two slacks for social wear, and six shirts and six to ten ties
for both.

The Man in Uniform

You may be in the military or you may work somewhere that requires a
uniform. Whatever the case, your work clothes are taken care of and
you probably ought to own one clean uniform for each day of the
week. You need one solid-color suit for dressy occasions and one or
two sport coats and slacks for social events. In addition to your jeans,
T-shirts, and other hackarounds, add two casual slacks, four casual
shirts, and a pair of nice casual shoes to complete your off-hours
wardrobe. If you "retire" from your uniformed job, you will need to
reevaluate your quantities according to your new lifestyle. It's easy.
Just pick another category and follow the guidelines for it.

Now that you know what you really need, you'll be surprised at how easy it is
to shop. Remember, shopping ahead of need is the secret to a successful ward-
robe—and an organized life! Whatever your lifestyle, with a plan and your color
palette, you can now fill the gaps in your wardrobe and have clothes that really
work for you.
CHAPTER

7
YOUR BODY
PROPORTIONS

Before shopping for a suit, sport coat, slacks, or shirt, you need to
be aware of the overall proportions of your body. Are your arms short? Are you
high-waisted? Are your shoulders and hips in proportion? Once you understand
your body, you can make cut, style, and fit work for you to disguise your flaws
and create a balanced look.
Since few of us are perfectly proportioned, our goal is to create the illusion of
perfection. Basic to the illusion is a key principle of design: the eye rests where
a line stops. By modifying the lines of your clothes, you can, for example, visually
lengthen short legs, diminish a prominent seat, or widen narrow shoulders. A
good tailor can make your clothes fit, but only you—by choosing your apparel
intelligently—can make line, style, and cut work to your best advantage.

DETERMINING YOUR PROPORTIONS

Stand in front of a full-length mirror so you can examine your overall body har-
mony. Look at yourself objectively. You may wish to have a tape measure handy
and a friend to help you.
On the next page is a Body Checklist showing you the key areas of your body
that affect your overall look. After you have read the short explanations that
follow, measure and study yourself, then fill in the chart.
106/COLOR FOR MEN

BODY CHECKLIST
Height: tall, average, short
Weight: heavy, avpragp, thin
Shoulder/hip proportion: _ shoulders much wider than hips
good proportion
hips even with or wider than shoulders
Slope of shoulders: tapered, average, square
One shoulder higher: yes, no
Leg length from hip to floor: inches long legs
short legs
average proportion
Waist: high, low, avpragp proportion
Neck: long, short, average proportion
Arms: long, short, average proportion
One arm longer: yes, no
Upper back: straight, round
Seat: prominent, flat, average

Height/Weight Everyone has a different personal ideal concerning height and

weight. In general, 5 feet 9 inches to 5 feet 11 inches is average;
6 feet and over is tall; 5 feet 8 inches and under is short. In
many instances, actual weight and height are not as important
as the relationship of the body parts to the whole. However, if
you want to appear taller, shorter, heavier, or thinner, there are
ways of creating the illusion of a different body size, which we
will discuss later.

Shoulder/Hip Visually compare the width of your shoulders to that of your

Proportion hips. A man's shoulders are usually wider than his hips. If your
shoulders extend unusually far beyond your hipline, however,
you may appear top-heavy. You will also look unbalanced if
your hips are equal to or wider than your shoulders.
 BODY PROPORTIQNS/107

The 3 Body Types

i ' -
1Q8/C0L0R FOR MEN

Shoulder Slope Facing forward, look at the slope of your shoulders. The average
person has a two-inch drop from the base of the neck to the
outer edge of the shoulder. If you have less than a two-inch
drop, you have square shoulders; more, and your shoulders are
tapered. Check also to see if one shoulder is markedly higher
than the other.
 BODY PROPORTIONS 109

Leg/Torso ' In a perfectly proportioned body, the legs make up half of the
Proportion total height. Measure the length of your leg from hip joint to
floor. (If you have trouble locating your hip joint, just lift your
leg. Where your trouser breaks at the hip is the joint.) Compare
the length of your leg to your overall height to determine if your
legs are short, long, or in proportion. One inch either way is
still considered average.
HO/COLOR FOR MEN

Waist/Body First look at your total height, then look at your waistline (when
Proportion belted). Does your waist seem especially high or low, or does
it strike a pleasing proportion to your height? Many people with
long legs tend to be high-waisted; short legs often contribute to
a low-waisted look.

\ \
i ) /
/ , j / ' J
J\
;
/ \
\ / X
} 1 / \

; i !i \i
i
\ >. S1 i
i I
1 \ [

I
\

\
1
/
\

rr
• ..A
r \

i/ u .
i
%if /
!
/
//
j 1

j /
)
1
/
/ i ;
1 / /
\
j \
1 i
\
\

\
I

L
High-waisted/long legs Low-waisted/short legs
 BODY PROPORTIONS 111

Neck See if your neck is very short or very long. Anything in between
is not a problem. If you have a double chin, or if your chin or
jowls rest against your collar, you need to compensate for your
short neck. You can also camouflage a very long neck by making
small adjustments in collar fit (see Chapter 9, "Your Shirt").

Arms Your arms are of average length if when they hang loosely at
your sides, the bottom knuckle of your fist is parallel to your
crotch. Check also to see if one arm is longer than the other.

Upper Back Stand sideways to the mirror and check the profile of your
shoulders and upper back. Is your posture relatively straight,
or is your upper back rounded with your shoulders tilted for-
ward?

Seat While standing sideways to the mirror, check the profile of your
seat. Especially flat or prominent buttocks require special at-
tention.

SOLUTIONS
Now that you know which areas of your body require special consideration, it's
time to focus on the clothing lines and details that will bring your total look in
balance. Some of this information will be covered in greater detail later in this
book, but here's an introduction to how to achieve a perfectly balanced look for
your body.

Height/Weight
If you want to look taller, add vertical lines. Consider a three-button suit made
of solid or pinstriped material rather than plaid or tweed fabric, which tends to
add width. In casual wear, you are best in a monochromatic look—perhaps navy
pants with navy sweater. A sport coat, sweater, or shirt that contrasts sharply
with your trousers will simply cut you in half. Corduroy, with its vertical ribs,
is a good choice in casual pants. To continue an unbroken line to the floor, wear
your pants uncuffed with only the slightest break in the pant leg, and match or
at least blend shoe and trouser color.
112/COLOR FOR MEN

If you are too thin, you can look

heavier with clothes that add bulk and
make use of horizontal lines. Create
width in suits by adding some pad-
ding to the shoulders and by choosing
tweeds and plaids. Avoid three-button
suits and coats with heavy waist
suppression, which are slimming. If
the look suits you, consider wearing
widely spaced double rear vents and
a double-breasted coat. Rugby shirts
and sweaters with horizontal stripes
are excellent choices for leisure wear.
You are the lucky individual who can
wear layers of clothing. Try a polo
shirt or turtleneck under your regular
sport shirt.
If you want to minimize your height,
horizontal lines can divide the length
of your body into segments and make
you appear shorter. A dark sport coat
or sweater with lighter pants is an ex-
cellent way to make yourself look
shorter. In suits and sport coats, pat-
terns such as glen plaids are better
than solids. Pants with cuffs and
prominent breaks can also remove
inches. Consider wide belts and large
buckles or colorful cloth belts with
casual wear to provide a strong hori-
zontal line.
 BODY PROPORTIONS 113

To appear slimmer, choose vertical

lines that lengthen and narrow your
body. Suits with vertical stripes or in
solid fabrics are excellent choices.
Avoid wide double-breasted suits as
well as those with natural shoulders
and no waist suppression. (A double-
breasted suit with buttons placed
closer together can be slimming.) A
crisp shoulder line and vertical darts
in your suits will remove a few
pounds. Heavy tweeds and bulky
handmade sweaters will add pounds,
but trim sweaters with set-in sleeves
and V necks will make you look slim-
mer.
114/COLOR FOR MEN

Shoulder/Hip Proportion
If your shoulders are too broad for your hips, you need to add dimension below
the waist. Suit coats with pocket flaps and casual jackets with patch pockets will
add needed width. Avoid peaked and extremely wide lapels, which tend to em-
phasize shoulder width. When selecting pants, look for pleats, on-seam pockets,
and bulky or heavy fabrics. Trim sweaters with raglan sleeves will also reduce
apparent shoulder width and help create a more balanced look in casual wear.
Avoid boat-neck pullovers, as this wide, shallow neckline increases apparent
shoulder width.

Raglan sleeves Boat neck

 BODY PROPORTIONS 115

If you have hips that are equal to or wider than your shoulders, emphasize the
shoulder and chest area. Add some padding to the shoulders of your suits. When
possible, select lapels that point upward and outward. Avoid pants with pleats
and on-seam pockets; slant pockets produce a trimmer look. To add width to the
shoulders, wear sweaters and shirts with set-in sleeves, and fit them so that the
shoulder seams extend slightly beyond your natural shoulder. In casual wear,
draw attention upward by combining brightly colored shirts and sweaters with
dark slacks. Sweaters and knit shirts with horizontal stripes across the chest and
shoulders are ideal.

Shoulder Slope
If your shoulders are tapered, you can make them appear more squarish by slightly
padding suit shoulders and by choosing, when possible, lapels that point upward.
In sweaters and knit shirts, set-in rather than raglan sleeves will add definition
to your shoulders.
S o f t e n the angles of very square shoulders by avoiding padding. Suits and sport
coats with natural shoulders are excellent choices. Extremes of lapel width—
either wide or narrow—tend to emphasize the shoulder area and call attention
to shoulder shape. Lapels or shirt collars that point somewhat downward will
also divert attention away from very square shoulders. In sweaters and knit shirts,
raglan sleeves and V necks may help to create the illusion of a more tapered
shoulder line.

Leg/Torso Proportion
To visually shorten extra-long legs, wear pants with cuffs and a prominent break.
Wearing a slightly longer suit jacket and selecting slacks with a lower rise (the
distance from crotch to waistband) may also help diminish apparent leg length.
Two-button or single-button jackets offer your best proportions in suits or sport
coats. Wear your belts as low as possible, and choose contrasting colors for your
shirts and pants.
If your legs are short, you can add length by avoiding cuffs and by hemming
pants at a length that produces only a slight break in the pants leg over the shoe.
Wearing the crotch of your pants as high as is comfortable and shortening your
suit jackets slightly will also help create the illusion of longer legs. A three-button
suit adds apparent length to your legs as well.
 BODY PROPORTIONS 117

Waist/Body Proportion
A high waist can be camouflaged by pants with a low rise, because the belt will
sit low on your waist. Sweaters worn over pants, and slightly longer suit jackets
will also help create the illusion of a lower waistline. However, pleated pants
should be avoided, as they draw unwanted attention to a high waistline. Casual
belts that match or blend with shirt color lengthen the upper body.
A low waist can be made to appear higher by wearing pants that have a high
rise. Be careful not to make the rise too high, however, as this is not a masculine
look. Wide waistbands and belts that match trousers in color can also visually
raise the waist. Wearing knit shirts or perhaps even sweaters tucked into the
waistband of the pants will also raise the midline. (See illustration on p. 118)

Neck
To disguise a long neck, a good tailor can raise jacket collars. Look for shirt collars
that fit high on the neck. Many button-downs fall into this category. Crewneck
sweaters and turtleneck shirts are good choices for your casual wardrobe. Avoid
open V necks.
A short neck will appear longer when you wear V-neck sweaters and open
collared shirts. In dress shirts, choose styles with low fitting collars, or have your
collars lowered by a tailor. Suits and topcoats will also have to be specially altered
to lower the collar. Avoid crewnecks and turtlenecks.

Arms
If you have short arms, lengthen suit-jacket sleeves slightly so that a bit less than
the usual half inch of shirt cuff shows. Also, reduce the distance between the
hem of the sleeves and the bottom of the jacket by shortening the jacket hem about
a quarter of an inch. Suits and sport coats cut with high armholes and raised
padded shoulders visually lengthen arms. Sweaters and knit shirts with raglan
sleeves may also lengthen arms by providing an unbroken line from collar to cuff.
If you have long arms, allow a bit more shirt cuff to show than the usual half
inch. Any cuff visually shortens your arm. Lengthen your jacket a quarter to a
half inch. Elbow patches on sportswear may also help to break up a long arm
line. In casual wear, rugby shirts and sweaters with stripes on the upper arms
help to create balance.
118/COLOR FOR MEN

Belts that match or blend with shirt color lengthen the upper body, while belts that match trousers raise the
waist.
 BODY PROPORTIONS 119

Upper Back
With a rounded back, you do best to select suits in solid colors, since tailoring
the jacket to fit your back often distorts the fabric's pattern at the center back
seam, accentuating the roundness. (Pinstripes that have been bowed into a barrel
shape greatly emphasize a round back.) Sweaters with horizontal stripes help to
camouflage your posture, but collarless shirts make it appear more pronounced.

Seat
If you have a prominent seat, compensate by selecting suit jackets with a single
center vent. If you need a high vent to provide extra room, make sure it lies flat.
Wearing sweaters out over your trousers will create a smooth line from shoulder
to seat. Be careful not to let your sweater ride up in the back, making you look
swaybacked.
If your seat is flat, wear jackets with moderate waist suppression and double
vents. Trousers must fit flawlessly in the rise (front and back) to avoid a droopy
look. For casual pants, corduroys and chinos are better than tight jeans.

A proportioned, finished appearance is vital if you are to stride comfortably and

confidently through your business day. Now that you know your own body pro-
portions and how to work with them to create a well-balanced look, let's examine
in detail the next essential aspect of being a well-dressed man: the expertly fitted
suit.
CHAPTER

18

YOUR SUIT: SIZE,

CUT, FIT, AND
QUALITY

I asked a married couple I know what each would do if given only

five hundred dollars to shop for an entire season's wardrobe. The wife admitted
she would select several blouses, skirts, and dresses to have a choice of things to
wear, even if she had to compromise on quality to do so. The husband said he
would buy one good suit and wear it every day if necessary.
For most men a suit represents a major investment. A quality suit makes a strong
statement about you—your lifestyle, personal credibility, career goals. Choosing
a suit in your seasonal palette is only half the mission. In addition, the suit must
fit properly.
Clothes can't make the man unless they fit the man! As we've learned, some
men are broad-shouldered and narrow-hipped, others have a long line that doesn't
vary much from head to toe, while others are long-legged, high-waisted, or square-
shouldered. Depending on your build, you'll need a suit cut to fit your body type
in order to be well dressed.
Understanding how to fit your body is not difficult. After reading this chapter,
you'll be able to guide salesmen and tailors, telling them how you want your suit
fitted, and why.
 YOUR SUIT/121

DETERMINING YOUR SUIT SIZE

Ready-to-wear suits come in chest sizes 36 to 50 with pant waists sized six or
seven inches smaller. A size 40 suit will come with size 33 or 34 pants, for ex-
ample. Suits are also sized in short, regular, long, and extra long.
When shopping for a suit, have the salesperson determine your jacket size by
measuring around your chest at its widest point (usually under your armpits).
This measurement tells you your jacket size. If your arms are heavy or muscular
and out of proportion to your chest, you will probably need to buy a bigger size.
Next, measure your waist—over a shirt, but not over trousers—at the point
where you normally wear a belt, usually one or two inches below your natural
waist. In determining your suit size, always fit the jacket first, for it is easier and
less expensive to alter pants and vests than it is to adjust a jacket.
Recheck your size each year. Don't keep asking for the same size out of habit.
As you gain or lose weight or grow older and gravity takes its toll, your suit size
will change.
Figuring out whether you need a short, a regular, or a long takes a bit of care.
Generally, shorts fit men who are under 5 feet 8 inches, regulars are for men
5 feet 8 inches to 6 feet, longs are for men 6 feet to 6 feet 4 inches, and extra longs
are for men taller than 6 feet 4 inches. Shorts, regulars, longs, and extra longs
vary in every dimension, including jacket length, sleeve length, vest length, and
rise.
Your height is not the only factor to consider when deciding whether you need
a short, regular, long, or extra long. Arm length and the relationship between torso
and leg length are just as important. A man who is 5 feet 7 inches may need a
regular suit if his torso and arms are long. Men on the borderline between two
sizes need to try on several suits and compare fit according to the principles
presented later in this chapter.

DETERMINING WHICH CUT IS BEST FOR YOU

Size is one factor and cut is another. There are three basic cuts of suits, and in
order to get the best fit, you should match the cut of the suit to your body build.
122/COLOR FOR MEN

The Ivy League Suit

This style, made famous by Brooks Brothers, is also known as the sack suit. It
has no darts (extra vertical seams) to give shape to the jacket, but rather has a
natural, untapered waistline. The chest width is only four to six inches greater
than the waist. The jacket has un-padded shoulders, loosely fitted armholes, and
a single vent in back. The trousers are fairly full and straight, with only a one-
inch reduction in circumference from knee to ankle.
The Ivy League suit is best for the man who has a sturdy build, whether he's
large, athletic, or simply on the portly side.
 YOUR SUIT/123

The Updated American Suit

This cut is becoming the most popular style. Unlike the traditional Ivy League
suit, the updated American suit has a slightly suppressed waist with added ver-
tical seams in the jacket to give shape and style. The lightly padded shoulders
and crisper line are flattering to many body types. This cut also has a higher
armhole and smaller waistline in proportion to the shoulders. The drop from chest
to waist is six to seven inches. It may have a single or double vent. Like the Ivy
League cut, the pants hang straight from the knee, though the circumference of
the pants legs is usually smaller than that of Ivy League cut trousers.
The updated American suit is best for the slimmer man. Portly or highly mus-
cular thick men can't fit into this style comfortably.
124/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

The European Suit

A high-fashion look, with a seven-inch drop from chest width to waist width,
this suit is appropriate for slender men who work in creative professions. This
is not a broker's suit! However, the squared shoulders, high armholes, double-
vented jacket, and tapered pants do have elegance.

Ask the salesperson how the suits in his store are cut, and don't waste your
time trying on styles that are inappropriate for you. At Brooks Brothers, my broad-
shouldered, narrow-hipped client found that he could not fit into any of their
suits, even their slimmer ones. The salesperson was kind enough to refer him to
another store where suits are cut in an updated American style. Perfect!
 YOUR SUIT/125

FIT
Now that you know your size and have determined the cut which best fits your
build and lifestyle, you need to have your suit carefully fitted. Every good men's
clothier has a professional tailor, though you may prefer to use one who runs his
own shop. Knowing exactly how your suit should fit is the key to communicating
effectively with the tailor.
Start out by dressing appropriately when you are shopping for a suit or having
one fitted. Wear a suit so you will have on a shirt, a tie, and the proper shoes
when trying on the new suit. Add all the usual things you carry in your pockets
so the tailor can judge the fit correctly.

Jacket

• Shoulders The shoulders of a jacket are crucial to a good fit. Check this
area first to determine if the proper suit size has been chosen.
The seam that joins the sleeve to the jacket should rest at the
natural edge of your shoulder, neither hanging over nor being
stretched by your arms. (If you have very large arms you may
have to have your suits custom-made.)
Before they will reset sleeves to adjust shoulder width, tailors
generally recommend trying another jacket size and making
other adjustments. Don't be surprised if you have to try on sev-
eral suits. Another size or a suit from a different manufacturer
may make a great deal of difference. If your shoulders are ta-
pered, causing the jacket to bunch due to excess fabric, you can
add shoulder pads to correct the problem. The pads will not
only improve the fit of the jacket but will give your shoulders
a more attractive line as well.

• Chest To check for proper chest fit, reach forward to determine if you
can move freely. Look at the fabric between your shoulder
blades and make sure it does not pull or wrinkle. Small ad-
justments can be made by taking in or letting out the center
back seam of the jacket. If the wrinkles tend to be diagonal, you
probably have one shoulder higher than the other. Have a small
pad built into the lower shoulder.
126/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

Collar too high Collar too low

iL
Y^-*- / ^ j?
, - remove excess
^. raise collar
w '' fabric
at seam

• / / i

i / , - i /
r y f ?
J
? f
•
\
Collar too long

^ shorten where
Jv'
a collar joins lapel
1
• * / •

.V ^A/
Sf Jr*i x
• . / 1

• Collar Very few men can buy a suit without having the collar raised,
lowered, or shortened. Square or very tapered shoulders; a neck
that is thin or thick, short or long; and a rounded back all create
special problems in collar fit.
Look in a three-way mirror. The jacket collar should hug the
back of the neck with a half inch of shirt collar showing above
it. If the shirt is hidden or there is a buckle of excess jacket
fabric just below the suit collar, you need to have the collar
lowered. This is done by removing excess fabric from the back
of the jacket just under the collar.
 YOUR SUIT/127

If more than a half inch of the shirt collar is showing, the

collar should be raised. Extra fabric is built into the collar in
all better men's suits.
If the suit collar pulls away from your neck, or if the jacket
lapels pull out or buckle, you need to take up the slack by
shortening the collar. The collar is shortened at the notch where
it joins the lapel in front.

The proper length of a jacket is

strictly a matter of proportion.
An old rule of thumb was to
stand with your arms at your
sides, fingers curled under. If
the hem of the jacket fell in the
curve of the fingers, it was the
right length. But this rule does
not accommodate people with
long or short arms, and you may
end up looking unbalanced.
Generally, your jacket should
be long enough to cover your
buttocks. If you have very long
legs, however, you may want to
wear your jacket slightly longer
than your buttocks to make
your legs appear shorter and
more balanced. If your legs are
very short, you'll want to wear
your jacket just above the bot-
tom of your buttocks in order to
give the illusion of longer legs.
Have the tailor measure you
(with shoes on) from the lower
edge of -the suit collar to the
floor, and divide the measure-
128/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

ment in half. For a well-proportioned look, the bottom of your

jacket in back should fall approximately at that halfway point.
Jacket length should be even all around. Unbutton the jacket
and check the bottom of the jacket closure. If the sides don't
match evenly, you probably have one shoulder lower than the
other. Build a pad into the lower shoulder instead of altering
the jacket hem. Also, stand sideways in front of a mirror and
compare the length of the jacket front and back. If you have
rounded shoulders, you may need to lengthen the back of the
jacket or shorten the front.

• Vents Jacket vents are basted shut by the manufacturer. If necessary,

open them to check fit. Button the jacket and check to see if
the vent pulls open in back. If it does, you need additional room
in the waist and in the lower part of the jacket (the skirt). Have
the side seams let out or the buttons moved, or try a combi-
nation of both.

• Torso If you have excess material in the waist and hip area of the
jacket, have the tailor take in the side seams and the back center
seam, or all three. If the waist is too tight or appears too sup-
pressed for your taste, have the seams let out.

• Sleeves As a general rule, the hem of your sleeve should end just at the
break of your wrist, covering your wrist bone, but leaving room
to allow a quarter to a half inch of shirt cuff to show. Make sure
the tailor checks both sleeves. Most of us have one arm slightly
longer than the other. Also, have the tailor check that the fabric
in the upper portion of your sleeve isn't too snug or baggy.
Sleeves should rest lightly on the upper arms without binding,
and should hang smoothly to the bottom when your arms are
at your sides. If a sleeve has a diagonal wrinkle in the upper
arm, your tailor will have to reset the sleeve and rotate it
slightly. This alteration is expensive, and many tailors don't
want to do it. If your tailor won't make this change, don't buy
the suit. It will never look right.
 YOUR SUIT/129

Vest
Vests are fitted and are always worn with the bottom button open. A vest must
cover the waistband of your trousers. If it is too long, have it shortened at the
shoulder seams. This alteration raises the armholes, so check for comfort under
your arms. If the vest is too short, you probably need to choose a long or extra-
long suit. When your suit coat is buttoned, most vests show a little above the
jacket's closed lapels. A vest should fit snugly but not so tightly that the buttons
pull or strain. Be careful of vests with adjustable tabs on the sides. They often
bunch in the back and pull across the front. You will get a smoother fit with a
properly tailored vest.

Pants
Try on pants with a belt or suspenders, and put your wallet in your back pocket
if you normally carry it there. Check the fit in a three-way mirror so that you can
see without twisting and throwing off the natural drape of the fabric. Complete
all adjustments to waist, seat, and thigh before marking length.

• Waist Determine proper waist size by having the tailor pin excess material
in back or, if your pants are too small, by unbuttoning the waist-
band. Before marking the waist size, be sure that the pants are
resting where you want them on your hips.
If your hips and waist are close to the same measurement, your
slacks may slip down all day, affecting the length. Wearing sus-
penders will alleviate the problem, and you'll be surprised at how
much more comfortable you are.
If your waist is nine inches smaller than your jacket size, you'll
need to have your suits custom-made or get a semi-custom suit.
You cannot successfully alter pants with that much drop from
shoulder to waist with just a nip and tuck. Some stores will totally
remake the pants for you, completely take them apart and recut
them, which is still cheaper than a custom-made suit. Semi-custom
suits, offered by some stores, are similar to off the rack but are made
for you according to your measurements—often a very good buy if
you have proportion problems.
130/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

• Seat Check seat fit by looking for wrinkling and sagging in the back (too
large) or pulling, especially at the pockets (too small). Major ad-
justments in the seat generally require an accompanying alteration
of the thighs. Always sit in trousers to check the fit; pulling may
not be apparent until you are seated. While standing, try swinging
your leg forward or taking a few steps. Binding at the knee is another
indication that additional room is needed in the seat.
If the trousers don't rest evenly on your hipbones or if there are
diagonal wrinkles at the crotch and thigh area, you probably have
one hip higher than the other. An expert tailor may be able to reset
the waistband to alleviate the problem.

• Rise If the pants extend above your waist or don't come up high enough,
the rise is not right for you. Be sure that you have selected the
correct suit size in terms of short, regular, or long. A pants waist
that is too low cannot be raised, and lowering the waist all around
is an expensive alteration. A custom-tailored suit may be the best
option in extreme cases.

• Legs Turn sideways and look at the way the pants hang. Legs should
fall straight and center evenly over each foot. Large calves will
cause the pant leg to pull back toward the heel. If you have prom-
inent thighs, the fabric will bind over them when you bend or sit.
Only limited alterations are possible in the thigh and calf areas. If
this is a problem for you, you may need to reconsider the style of
the suit you've chosen. Ivy League suits often have trousers with
fuller legs than European or updated American cuts.
While standing, look down at each pants crease. Ideally the
crease should fall centered over the middle toe. If you have bowed
legs, the crease will fall over your little toe; if you are knock-kneed,
the crease will fall over your big toe. Re-pressing the crease is not
the answer to this problem, but adjusting the side seams may ac-
commodate you.
 YOUR SUIT/131

Length Alterations to the waist, seat, thigh,

and calf areas affect the way pants
hang and thus change the overall
length. Have the tailor complete all
other adjustments before marking
length. If alterations to waist, seat,
thigh, or whatever involve taking in
material, pants may be pinned to
approximate the finished product,
enabling the tailor to determine the
proper length at the first fitting. If
seams have to be let out, it is best
to have the length marked at the
second fitting.
You must wear proper shoes to
have the length of trousers marked.
The hem of the pants legs should
clear the shoe heel and should rest
on the front of the shoe with a slight
break. The hem may be tapered so
that the back hangs slightly longer
than the front. Make sure that the
tailor measures both legs, since one
hip may be higher or one leg longer
than the other.
132/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

Whether you finish trousers with cuffs or plain bottoms is largely

a matter of personal taste and of your desire to make your legs look
longer or shorter. If you tend to wear out the back edge of your
pants cuff, you can have the tailor sew in a heel stay (an extra layer
of fabric) to extend the life of your pants.

QUALITY OF SUIT CONSTRUCTION

The price of a suit depends partly on the amount of time that goes into its con-
struction. Less expensive suits will reflect laborsaving shortcuts. But even an
expensive suit, while it may use first-class fabric, may occasionally cut corners
on construction to keep the price down.
How do you recognize quality in a man's suit and avoid paying a premium
price for a not-so-premium garment? Here are a few points to check when con-
sidering a suit.

• Pattern Check the side and back seams and make sure the patterns match.
It requires handwork and more material to make the seams line up
correctly. Lower-quality suits may skimp here.

• Sleeve The buttons on the sleeve should be placed so the edges just touch
each other. The buttons should be bone, not plastic, and should
be sewn on by hand. A very expensive suit should have buttonholes
that really work. Working buttonholes are rarely found on inex-
pensive garments.

• Collar Look at the stitching on the underside of the collar. Hand-sewn

collars will be flat and hug the neck better. Look for close hand
stitching.

• Chest The material that covers the chest (not including the lapel) has an
inner lining to help the garment hold its shape. This interfacing
should be sewn in rather than glued or fused. Squeeze the material
over the chest and see if it is soft and resilient. If it's stiff, don't
buy it.
 YOUR SUIT/133

• Lining Some jackets are fully lined, while others have lining only in the
front and the top half of the back. Properly lined jackets have an
expansion fold on the inside of the hem. The lining should be
folded under, neatly pressed, and sewn about a half inch higher
than the fold. If the fold is merely rolled under and not properly
pressed, the lining will begin to droop and show beneath the hem.
When the back of the jacket is lined only at the top, check to be
sure that the inside edge of the vent has a small strip of lining sewn
in to prevent the flap from curling or riding up.

FABRIC
Choose quality fabric. For the ideal in appearance, fit, and wear, choose a natural
fiber, usually wool. You may want to have a small percentage of polyester blended
with the wool, as polyester gives the cloth stamina and prevents wrinkles. Natural
fibers, especially soft wools or linen, don't hold their shape well except in heavier
weights or in sport coats. Never buy a double-knit or all-polyester suit. Both look
inexpensive and unsophisticated.

A suit in your color made of quality fabric and fitted to perfection is essential to
creating an image that brings out your best. Now let's complete the picture with
shirts and ties that are just right for you, too.
134/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

SUIT MANUFACTURERS
To help you shop, here is a list of manufacturers and the cut and style of their suits.

Name of Manufacturer Name of Line Style/Fit (drop)

Bidermann Industries USA, Y.S.L. European (7")

Inc.
Brooks Brothers Brooks Brothers* Ivy League (5")
Brooks Brothers 346* Ivy League (6")
Brooks Brothers Brooksgate* Updated American (7")
Giorgio Armani Giorgio Armani European (7")
Grief Chaps Updated American (71
Hart, Schaffner, Marx Updated American (61
Hart, Marx (5" drop above 42)
Hickey Freeman* Updated American (6")
Hart, Marx Pierre Cardin European [7")
Intercontinental Apparel, Inc. Haspel Updated American (6")
Palm Beach Palm Beach Updated American (61
Palm Beach Palm Beach Signature Updated American (71
Palm Beach Cricketeer Updated American (61
Phillips, Van Heusen Bill Blass Updated American (61
Pincus Brothers Southwick* Updated American (61
Southwick Stanley Blacker Updated American (61
Stanley Blacker
* Available primarily through specialty stores. All others are available through department and spe-
cialty stores.
CHAPTER

9
YOUR SHIRT

Y o u r shirt, whether casual or dressy, is the most important item of

clothing you wear because it is the color closest to your face. In sportswear, your
shirt may set the tone for your whole look. In business and dress shirts, you also
have a tie and suit to work with, but your shirt is still the main body of color
close to your face.
Don't cheat on color. I learned the downfall of cheating the hard way. One
distinguished client was particularly difficult to analyze. He tested well in Sum-
mer's powder blue and Winter's icy blue. After considerable testing and even a
trip to the store to try on polo shirts and see him in action, I determined he was
a Winter. Because of his blue eyes, his gray hair, and the fact that he tested well
in Summer's blue, I told him he could cheat a little on his blue dress shirts. I
then invited him to attend our annual convention to be an example of a hard-to-
analyze client. When he arrived, I almost fell off my platform. My Winter example
was wearing a golden tan suit, an ivory shirt, and a blue, red, and tan tie. "Why
are you wearing Spring colors?" I asked, aghast. "You told me I could cheat," he
said. He looked terrible. I then turned to the two hundred consultants and an-
nounced, "We have a new motto. Never tell a client he can cheat a little."
In sportswear, there's no excuse not to look good. You can always find a color
that flatters from the wide offering of sport shirts now available. In dress shirts,
it may be more difficult to find a specific color, depending on your season. Look
quickly through the store, and if it doesn't carry your color, move on. Another
store, another buyer, another designer, another manufacturer may give you what
136/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

you're looking for. You won't have wasted much time in the first store, so you'll
still have the time and money to go elsewhere. Eventually you'll know which
brands are best for your season.
Aside from color, here are the most important aspects of buying a shirt:
COLLAR
CUFF
FABRIC
PATTERNS
FIT

THE COLLAR
The most noticeable aspect of a shirt, aside from its color and overall quality, is
the collar. The style of the collar, in addition to suiting your taste, must also suit
the style of your other clothes as well as the occasion. The shape and size of the
collar should be in proportion to your face. And of course the collar must fit. I
will deal with fit in the last section of this chapter. Right now let's look at style,
size, and shape.

Collar Styles
There are five basic collar styles: the button-down collar, the standard collar, the
pin collar, the full spread collar, and the round collar.

• The button-down collar is the

Button-down collar
American favorite. It is appropriate
for business, as well as casual and
informal social wear. It is not suit-
able for formal affairs. Button-
downs tend to pull and wrinkle
when worn with a tie. Make sure
that yours are well-fitted, that your
tie is not too wide for the collar, and
that your shoulders don't pull the
shirt fabric, creasing it across the
top of your chest and pulling the
collar out of line (move the buttons,
if need be).
 YOUR SHIRT/137

• The standard collar comes in var-

ious sizes and shapes with points
ranging from short and wide to long
and thin. It is dressier than the but-
ton-down and suitable for business
or social events. The standard col-
lar has crisp, clean lines and looks
best when lightly starched and
pressed. It is often worn with collar
stays, which are removed for laun-
dering.

• The pin collar is a sophisticated,

dressy, and more formal collar,
usually worn with a three-piece
suit. Some collars have holes in
them to accommodate the pin or
collar bar. You can wear a collar bar
on any standard collar as long as it
does not have a wide spread. Never
pin a button-down.

• The full-spread collar has wide,

Full-spread Collar
shortish points that are spread far
apart. It is always dressy and Eu-
:
ropean-looking on an American
man. It suits those who have a spe-
cial flair or formality in their per-
X A
!>< I I
sonal style. It must be worn with a Tl > '
wide knot in the tie. The full-spread i /
r
f « m
collar does not flatter a man with a
wide face.
# *1
• The round collar, often combined
Round Collar
with a collar bar, provides an ele-
gant look. This sophisticated collar
is highly favored by the fashion-
conscious bankers on Wall Street.
It's not a corporate look, so corpo-
rate types should reserve it for so-
cial wear. It doesn't suit everyone,
so don't wear it if you're the rugged,
outdoorsy type.

Collar Size and Shape

The size and shape of the collar that looks best on you are determined by the
size of your head and body and the shape of your face. Ready-made shirts change
somewhat from year to year according to fashion. Some styles are faddish and do
little for most men. Big strapping American men look pretty silly in the dinky
little collars popular in the early eighties. Always flatter yourself rather than
compromise your looks to fashion. With subtle adaptations you can be in style
and still wear becoming shirts that will last through many a trend.
If you have an oval face or one of average proportions, you can wear most collar
styles and need only remember to scale them to your face size and body size. If
your face is long and thin or wide and round, you need to be more selective. The
variety of collars available in ready-made shirts probably offers enough choice
for most men, but some of you will want to invest in custom- or semi-custom-
made shirts. These shirts are available mainly through specialty shirt shops rather
than stores, but are worth the effort. In a specialty shirt shop you can try on many
different collar sizes, shapes, spreads, and even collar heights to see visually what
looks best on you. The man with a very short or a very long neck has no choice
but a custom shirt. Adjusting the height of your collar will do wonders for the
appearance of your neck. Skillfully chosen, your collar can flatter your face and
create the illusion of better proportions.
• If you have a long, thin face, choose a collar of medium length that is a little
wide. If your shirt is custom-made, choose a spread that is slightly wider than
standard. Avoid the very wide European spread, as it is the extreme opposite of
your face and will accentuate its thinness.
 YOUR SHIRT/139

Wrong: long, thin collar lengthens thin face Right: medium width collar makes thin face appear
fuller

Wrong: Round collar accentuates Right: Longer, thinner collar

round face. slims round face.
14Q/C0L0R FOR MEN

^C. ™ JL
f]'
| /v ^

4 f

ti ¥

V /

Wrong: Average collar height exaggerates long

tPl
Right: Raised collar minimizes long neck.
neck.

( ^ //sS/SJt
' ' ^ ^ %

P
ril f) (f 'if)
. / \ ^

Wrong: Average collar height exaggerates short neck. Right: Lowered collar lengthens short neck.
 YOUR SHIRT/141

• If you have a wide or round face, it can appear lengthened and slimmed by
a slightly longer and thinner collar. An extremely long and thin collar is too out
of balance with your face and will accentuate rather than minimize your problem.
Avoid round collars, which accentuate roundness, and European spreads, which
accentuate wideness.
• If you have a long neck, your collar should be a quarter inch higher all around
than the standard cut. Adjust your suit-collar height as well.
• If you have a short neck, choose a shorter collar to keep from looking stubby.
Your suit-collar height should be proportionally adjusted, too.
• If your neck is wrinkled, choose a collar higher in front.
• If you have a very small or a very large head and face, your collar size
should be scaled to your size: smaller collar for small head, larger for large head.
In addition to being in flattering proportion to your face, the collars of your busi-
ness and dress shirts must be compatible with the style of your suits and sport
coats and the shape of your jacket lapels. If you've chosen a slightly wide lapel
to suit your face and body shape, don't select a thin, narrow collar. If you're
wearing a narrow-lapeled casual jacket, don't accompany it with a European
spread shirt collar.
Last, make sure your collars are clean, well-pressed, and not worn out. A collar
that is frayed around the edges will blow your image for sure. Shirts that are worn
frequently become familiar old buddies. Take a look at yours and toss out the
frazzled ones. .

THE CUFF
Your cuff is important in creating a finished, well-groomed look. The length of
your cuff is critical. Exposed wrists look just as bad as sleeves that are too loose
and too long. Cuffs should be a quarter to a half inch longer than your jacket
sleeves and should cover the wristbone. Never wear a short-sleeved shirt under
a suit. Even in sweltering weather it looks unprofessional.
For the neatest look in a cuff, make sure it fits your wrist trimly. A button on
the placket above the cuff is the mark of a fine shirt. This look is found on ex-
pensive ready-mades or can be ordered on custom shirts. If you choose French
cuffs and cuff links, make sure the formality of this style blends with your suit
and is compatible with your personality. French cuffs are usually for dress, but
more formal men can wear them for work as well.
142/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

Whatever style of cuff you choose,

make sure it is crisply pressed, espe-
cially if the fabric is cotton. You can
sometimes get away without pressing
if your shirt is permanent press, but a
stiff, lightly starched cuff gives a more
finished look.

THE FABRIC
The best fabrics for dress shirts are 100 percent cotton or cotton/polyester (wash
and tumble dry) blends. A shirt of pure cotton looks great, fits, is cool, and takes
color well. However, it wrinkles—sometimes badly!—after a day at work. A per-
manent-press cotton/polyester blend (65 percent cotton/35 percent polyester) may
be the best choice for long wear.
The basic choices for business shirt fabrics are broadcloth, oxford cloth, and
end-on-end.* In general you will wear like finishes in suits and shirts: broadcloth
with worsted (both smooth), oxford with flannel (both slightly textured).
In sport shirts you may choose from cottons, denims, corduroys, flannels, wools,
or knits. Take the time to find the right color for you, and select shirts of good
quality that will wear well.
Forget 100 percent synthetic fabrics for either business or casual wear. These
fabrics almost always look cheap and don't 4 'breathe." Silk shirts are strictly for
evening wear or for the flashier professions where it is acceptable to dress up for
work. Batiste or any see-through material is not appropriate for business, though
in the creative professions it may be acceptable for summer wear.

* An end-on-end is a fabric with two colors of thread (say, blue and white) tightly woven together.
It is traditionally darker than an oxford cloth.
 YOUR SHIRT/143

PATTERNS
Patterns add interest to a shirt but are always less formal than a solid. The rule
of thumb is that subtle patterns are suitable for business wear, and noticeable
patterns are for casual or social attire. Most men are best advised to stay away
from prints of any kind. Pictures, geometric designs, and florals are seldom flat-
tering unless you live in Hawaii, where they are part of the culture.

Tattersall checks in subtle shades When thin and crisp, stripes go with
and (particularly in the summer) any style business suit, even a
small, well-defined box checks can pinstripe. As the stripes get wider or
be acceptable for some professions. brighter, they become more sporty in
Checks are not a corporate look. appearance.
144/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

Checks for casual Plaids

From muted to bold, tattersall to Any bright, busy combination of

gingham, checked shirts are colors is immediately casual, but
generally most suitable for subtle plaids can be worn with a
sportswear. sportcoat for some professions.

THE FIT
When selecting a ready-made shirt, you have only neck circumference and sleeve
length to go by. If your arm length and neck size are not compatible with the
standard size, you'll need a custom shirt. In ready-mades you may also have to
choose between an ill-fitting torso and an ill-fitting collar, since most manufac-
turers use a standard proportion of collar size to chest width. If you find yourself
in this situation, choose an ill-fitting torso with a well-fitted collar, since the collar
is the more visible. Some manufacturers do cut shirts fuller or slimmer, so ask
the salesman which brand and designers are best for your build. (When you have
your shirts custom-made, the dilemma of proper fit is avoided.)
 YOUR SHIRT/145

Many men will have some fit problem with a ready-made shirt, but may find
custom-made shirts prohibitively expensive. Although a tailor-made-from-scratch
shirt is expensive, the independent shirt shops that specialize in semi-custom
shirts offer much more reasonable price ranges. You can try on torso size and
taper as well as collar and cuffs. The store measures your neck and arms and
guarantees fit. In addition, you can choose your fabric and—hurray!—your colors
from a large assortment. These shirts last forever, and you can even have the collar
replaced if it wears out. If you have any fitting problems, it's worth the time and
expense to get a shirt that does your body justice and in which you feel terrific.

Fitting the Collar

The collar's fit is crucial. If it is too tight, it will pull and wrinkle, so even the
finest shirt will look poorly chosen. If the collar is too loose, you will look messy.
To measure your neck properly, measure around the lower part of your neck
at the point where the collar button rests. The ends of the tape measure should
touch, but the tape should not be pulled tightly. You want to have enough leeway
so that a tie, when knotted, will not strangle you.
146/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

If your collar wrinkles when buttoned and worn with a tie, it is probably too tight.
If you have square shoulders, your button-downs will wrinkle even if the collar
size is correct. You may be able to adjust the buttons by moving them to a point
where the collar doesn't pull. If that doesn't work, don't wear button-downs, or
have them custom-made so the shoulder can be cut differently.
Recheck your collar size every year or anytime you gain or lose weight. As you
age, your neck size will change. My father was a surgeon who was more interested
in his patients than his shirts. Year after year he ordered the same size shirts until
one morning my mother found him with a razor, slitting the buttonhole on his
brand-new shirt collar. "What are you doing?" she cried. "My shirt's too tight,"
he replied. We wondered how many years he'd been slitting his buttonholes
instead of buying bigger shirts.

Fitting the Cuffs and Sleeves

Measure the length of your arm from the center of the nape of your neck along
your shoulder and down to your wristbone. A custom shop should measure both
arms in case one is longer than the other. In ready-mades, buy the length that fits
your long arm and have the other sleeve shortened.

Measuring slee 1
 YOUR SHIRT/147

Your cuff should fit closely around your wrist but still be comfortable. Adjust the
buttons if necessary. Some shirts come with two buttons sewn on so you can
button whichever fits your wrist best. Remember, cuffs should not extend much
more than a half inch below your jacket sleeve. By the same token, never settle
for a sleeve that is too short.
If your arms are extremely broad or muscular, you may need a custom shirt in
order to build more fullness into the sleeve. Skimpy sleeves not only are uncom-
fortable but will also pull on the shirt yoke and make your collar wrinkle.

Fitting the Shoulders

An ill-fitting shirt that is too tight will pull, creating long creases in the fabric
across your collarbones. A shirt too loose in the shoulders will sag across the
front. The standard shirt yoke is cut for shoulders that taper two inches from the
bottom of the neck to the edge of the shoulder.

• If you have square shoulders, you'll need a square yoke or your collars will
always pull and wrinkle. Square yokes have to be custom-made, though some
fashion designers cut a yoke that is more square than the standard.
• If your shoulders are quite tapered, you'll need an extra-tapered yoke—
again, custom-made. You may also need your collar shortened.
148/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

Fitting the Torso

The taper of the shirt body is a matter of both comfort and looks. You want to
avoid any pulling or constriction across your stomach, as well as any bunching
up or bagging of surplus fabric. A trim, slightly loose line wears best and is most
comfortable. Make sure the shirt is long enough to stay tucked in.
Try on different brands to see which are cut for you. Some designer shirts and
European cuts are slimmer through the torso. A tailor can put darts in a shirt
that's too full, thus reducing the excess bulk.

Now you know everything you need to know to successfully buy and fit a shirt.
When you find a shirt you really like, buy two, so you'll always have your favorite
shirt clean and ready to wear.
Invest some time and effort in your shirt wardrobe—both casual and dress. A
shirt in some form is one item of clothing you wear every day of your life.

Name of Manufacturer Name of Line Style/Fit

Alexander Julian Alexander Julian* Medium range

Arrow Arrow Fitted and medium range
Brooks Brothers Brooks Brothers* Full cut
Gitman Brothers Gitman Brothers* Medium range
Manhattan Henry Grethel Medium range
Manhattan John Henry Fitted
Manhattan Manhattan Fitted and medium range
Palm Beach Eagle Medium range
Palm Beach Gant Full cut
Palm Beach Pierre Cardin Fitted
Van Heusen Van Heusen Fitted and medium range
Warnaco Chaps Full cut
Warnaco Christian Dior Fitted and full cut
Warnaco Hathaway Full cut

* Available primarily through specialty stores. All others are available through department and spe-
cialty stores.
CHAPTER

10
YOUR TIE

Every evening after work Harry frequented a New York bar where
it was the custom for a man to loosen his shirt and hang his tie on a peg on one
wall. Every night hundreds of ties adorned the wall, signifying the end of a hard
day's work. One night Harry—who was a well-dressed and respected fellow—
hung up his tie as usual, only to let out a cry, leave the bar, and return a few
minutes later with a pair of scissors. Harry took his tie off the peg and ceremo-
niously cut it to shreds. The bartender said, "My God, man, why are you cutting
up an expensive silk tie?" And Harry replied, "Because there is another tie just
like mine up there. My tie is the only way I have of expressing my individuality!"
And then he ordered a double.
Your tie can make or break your image. When chosen wisely, it brings color to
your face, style and class to your dress, and individuality to your business "uni-
form."
Yet many men shop for a tie as if it were to be worn by their shirt and suit
alone. You will often see a man bring the suit and shirt to the counter and start
trying the ties on the items of clothing, not thinking to try each tie on himself. I
have often demonstrated to my clients how much impact—or how little—a tie
has by having them try it on. The salespeople at better men's stores in my town
are quite used to seeing men standing in front of a mirror holding shirts and ties
under their faces.
1 5 0 / C 0 L 0 R FOR MEN

Naturally a tie must look good with your suit and shirt, but never at the expense
of your face or personality. If possible, buy the suit first, then select the tie, and
then choose a shirt to match both. The guidelines for combining coat, shirt, and
tie are in Chapter 11.
To buy the best ties for you, consider: PATTERN
COLOR
FABRIC
WIDTH
LENGTH

Let's look at each of these factors.

PATTERN

There are eight basic types of patterns:

1. Solid 5. Plaid
2. Rep (Striped) 6. Geometric
3. Foulard (Ivy League) 7. Dots
4. Club 8. Paisley

Each one of these patterns has a different effect and is appropriate with different
styles of suits and jackets. A useful tie wardrobe will include a sampling of pat-
terns so that the look of any suit can be modified, making your clothes as versatile
as possible.

Solid
Solids go well with solid suits, patterned jackets, and all shirts. They are versatile,
and can be either bold or conservative. Dark silk solid ties have a quiet elegance,
while casual wools and knits bring either subtle or bright color to your wardrobe
without being busy or loud. Some solids have a same-color pattern—a red-on-
red stripe, for example. These are considered solids as long as the pattern is subtle.
Silk solids have a sheen that adds richness to the tie, but stay away from very
shiny or brocade versions.
 YOUR TIE/151

Tie Patterns
152/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

Rep (Striped)
Striped ties are based on the old regimental patterns. These days any diagonal
stripe is called a rep. This is the classic American business tie. Stripes may be
quite thin, of varying widths, or even and wide. Your selection will depend on
your body proportions and personality. With clear-colored suits, keep the stripes
crisp; with suits in muted tones, the stripes should be softer.

Foulard (Ivy League)

The term foulard was originally applied to a weave of fabric with a corded ap-
pearance. Today it is used for an Ivy League tie pattern made up of a series of
small, regularly spaced designs such as circles, ovals, diamonds, or squares on a
solid background. A foulard is often quite elegant. The small, subtle pattern brings
color to the tie without being loud.

Club
The club tie can be sporty or conservative. It has a regular pattern of club-like
motifs—such as heraldic shields, sporting insignia, or animals—against a solid
background. The pattern should be small, subtle, and not instantly recognizable.
A tie with big, bold figures on it is not a club tie, and is generally considered
tacky.

Plaid
Plaid ties are usually considered casual. In heavy wool they are appropriate in
the wintertime with tweeds and muted herringbone. They do not go with pin-
striped suits or the sleeker worsteds. They can go well with flannel suits, however,
and when made of lineu or cotton, plaid ties go with summer suits as well. Just
remember to avoid garish or loud plaids at any time of year.

Geometric
Geometric ties cover everything from an enlarged diamond pattern resembling an
Ivy League tie to crisscross or vertically striped patterns. The large diamond
shapes are more casual than the smaller versions, but either brings an angularity
to your appearance—particularly flattering to the large man.
 YOUR TIE/153

Dots
Dots range from polka dots to pin dots. Traditionally a very elegant tie, the polka
dot is almost as versatile as the solid tie. Very small pin dots are even more formal,
and are used for evening or with your more elegant business suits for special
occasions.

Paisley
Paisley ties are useful because they combine so many colors that they mix and
match well. In stronger colors paisley ties are too sporty for a business look, but
when the colors and fabric are subdued, these ties can be elegant and dressy.

COLOR
Your tie color can enhance your face, add zip to your total appearance, and work
as an accent to complete your outfit. It can also be a powerful tool for bringing
an old wrong-color suit into line. Always wear your right color as the primary
color in the tie. Choose a patterned tie with a background color from your chart
and a design that brings in a small amount of the wrong color from your suit. The
tie will then blend harmoniously with the suit, while its primary color offsets to
some degree the suit's negative effect. Once your wardrobe has been changed over
completely, however, try to buy only ties with your correct colors. There may be
a touch of wrong color in patterned ties, but the more visible the wrong color is,
the less it will do you justice.
Following are some guidelines for each season's ties.

Winters
Winters need clear, sharp colors. When shopping for a navy tie, be careful to buy
a bright or dark navy rather than a muted one. Winters look excellent in solid
colors, since a pattern can diminish the contrast or sharpness of the tie under a
Winter's face. Solid dark blue-reds are especially flattering. Any patterns should
contain some brightness or contrast. Best prints for the Winter man are stripes
with sharp contrast (the width of the stripes depends on your body scale, face
size, and personality). Second best are foulard ties, if the tiny repeat patterns
contain some element of brightness or contrast. A tiny white diamond, for ex-
ample, is better than a muted blue diamond. Geometries are good for Winters.
Polka dots are fine as long as they are sharp and suit your personality. Plaids are
rarely appropriate for a Winter, since a plaid that offers enough contrast is usually
154/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

too loud for business wear. Paisleys are similarly problematic, but are occasionally
okay if carefully selected. If the paisley is subtle, then you must wear a pure white
or a very icy shirt to provide the sharpness your look needs. A club tie is not your
most exciting look. Wear it only if you are sentimental about the emblem.

Summers
Summers should choose more subtle ties in shades slightly more muted than
Winter's. A Summer's best print is the foulard, especially when the pattern is in
a rounded shape such as a teardrop or oval. Summers should wear stripes that
offer minimal contrast or look blended (either thin or wide, depending upon body
scale, face size, and personality). Plaids are okay as long as they are blended; a
subtle madras plaid works well. Dots are fine, too, as long as they are fairly small
and not too sharp. Few Summers wear paisleys, but if they suit you, keep the
pattern subtle and blended. Clubs are fine if the insignia is not too bright and the
motif is conservative.

Autumns
The Autumn man needs richness in the colors of his ties. Often he has no cheek
color, and he depends upon that tie to brighten his face. Most Autumns look
excellent in patterned ties, especially rich paisleys. Plaids are great as well, par-
ticularly in combination with Autumn's tweeds and herringbones. Irregular
stripes are also good, though ties with evenly spaced stripes of equal width may
be too contrived and controlled for an Autumn man. Polka dots may also be too
formal for you. Foulard ties are fine in almost any pattern as long as the scale
suits your face and body size. Sporty club ties are good for Autumns.

Springs
Springs, like Winters, depend on clear colors, so their ties should never look dull
or washed out. The Spring man wears solids well, usually in ties with a matte
(nonshiny) finish. The best prints for Springs are casual, subtle plaids, widish
stripes with medium contrast, and almost any foulard pattern. Severe stripes are
too sharp for most Spring men, and polka dots are usually too formal. Sporty club
motifs are good for Springs. A paisley will work only if it is carefully chosen in
your colors. In general, it is not Spring's best look. Most geometries are too severe
for Springs.
 YOUR TIE/155

WINTER SUMMER

Solid Excellent for contrast. Solid Good in muted shades,

Choose clear, sharp medium to dark.
colors, especially in
navy or red.

Rep (Striped) Excellent. Choose Rep (Striped) Good with blended

sharply contrasting stripes, subtle contrast.
stripes.

Foulard Select patterns with Foulard Excellent, especially

brightness or contrast. when pattern is in a
rounded shape such as
teardrop.

Club Personal choice. Club Personal choice. Avoid

Insignias better than anything too bright.
sporty motifs.

Plaid Seldom appropriate. Plaid Subtle plaids, such as

gentle madras, are
good.

Geometric Excellent. Geometric Subtle rather than

bold.

Dots Choose sharp polka Dots Dots are fine, usually

dots with high small and not too
contrast. sharp.

Paisley Seldom appropriate. Paisley Seldom appropriate

Choose sophisticated but okay if soft and
neutrals rather than blended.
bold colors.
156/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

AUTUMN SPRING

Solid Good in rich colors. Solid Good in clear colors,

never dull or washed
out.

Rep (Striped) Good in irregular Rep (Striped) Choose medium-

stripe. contrast stripes.

Foulard Almost any pattern Foulard Almost any pattern

okay. okay.

Club Sporty club motifs are Club Sporty club motifs are
fine. fine.

Plaid Excellent, especially Plaid Excellent in casual,

with tweeds and subtle plaids. Gentle
herringbone. madras is good.

Geometric Probably too formal. Geometric Probably too severe.

Dots Probably too formal. Dots Probably too formal.

Paisley Excellent. Paisley Seldom appropriate.

FABRIC
A tie is never as effective—even one in the right color and pattern—if it is made
of a cheap fabric. Both the surface and drape of the fabric are important. Silk,
fine wool, linen (for summer), and cotton are the best fabrics. Stay away from
synthetics if possible. Not only do good fabrics take color better, but they also
knot better than cheaper ones.
 YOUR TIE/157

Generally any matte or flat-finish fabric can be worn for business, dress, or
casual occasions. Nubby textures are always more casual. A subtle sheen on silk
is elegant in business wear and can be quite fancy. Shiny ties are strictly dress
wear, but they must be silk and in a color conservative enough to keep the shine
from being overwhelming.

Tie Width

The width of ties varies somewhat according to fashion, but the most flattering
width for all men is between 3 and 3V2 inches at the tie's broadest point. If you
are broad-chested, you'll want a broader tie. If you are thin, choose narrower ties.
In addition, you need to have the tie in proportion to your collars. Here, too,
it is a subtle difference, not a large one, that bespeaks style and savvy.
158/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

Tie Length

The length of your tie should always be the same. When it is tied properly, the
tip of your tie should hit just at the top of your belt. You will need to adjust the
length when tying it. Depending upon your height you will need more or less
fabric to achieve this.

KNOTS AND BOW TIES

How you wear the tie is as important as the tie itself. There are three standard
knots; each one is suitable with different shirt collars and your overall body pro-
portions. The tie knot should lie comfortably between your collar points with no
gaps on either side and no pinching or crowding. Both wide-faced and thin-faced
men should avoid very thin or very wide knots, which accentuate any proportion
problems by either repeating the line or offering too extreme a contrast.
The following illustrations are drawn in mirror image, so you can prop the book
up facing you while you stand in front of the mirror
The Four-in-Hand
The four-in-hand is a longish knot and
is proportioned for the button-down
collar or the standard collar of average
spread. Because this knot gives a
longer finished tie, it is excellent for
the tall man who needs a little more
length.

1. Place the wide end of the tie on

your right so it hangs about 12
inches longer than the narrow end.
2. Wrap the long end around the short
end and then behind, finishing on
the right.
3. Continue to cross long end over
short end, finishing on the left.
4. Pull long end through loop from
the back.
5. Slip point through front of knot and
tighten.
6. While pulling down short end with
one hand, use other hand to slide
knot up snugly.

Look at this illustration as if you were looking in a

mirror.
16Q/C0L0R FOR MEN

The Half Windsor

The half Windsor is more triangular
and is also proportioned for the stan-
dard collar.

1. Place the wide end of the tie on

your right so it hangs about 12
inches longer than the narrow end.
2. Wrap the long end behind the short
end, finishing on the right.
3. Thread long end through loop and
pull down to the left.
4. Cross long end over knot. ^
5. Pull long end through loop from
the back.
6. Slip point through front of knot and
tighten. While pulling down short
end with one hand, use other hand
to slide knot up snugly.

Look at this illustration as if you were looking in a

mirror.
 YOUR TIE/161

The Windsor
The Windsor knot is wide and trian-
gular and is specifically for a Euro-
!' X\
pean spread or any shirt collar with a
widish spread.
i \ % %
j 18s x j
1. Place the wide end of the tie on
your right so it hangs about 12 1. AS
inches longer than the narrow end. A 1
w
2. Cross the long end over the short 2.
AY
end and pull up through loop from IV
the back.
\W ^
3. Bring long end down and wrap be-
hind short end, finishing on the
right.
4. Thread long end through loop, then
pull down and wrap across front of
knot.
5. Thread through loop again.
6. Slip point through front of knot and
tighten. While pulling down short
end with one hand, use other hand
to slide knot up snugly.
tiM'fit

Look at this illustration as if you were looking in a

mirror.
162/COLOR FOR MEN

The Bow Tie

Wearing the bow tie is a matter of per-
sonal choice. But in all but formal at-
tire, it is less serious or businesslike.
The same thought and care should be
given to the selection of its color, pat-
tern, and fabric as for the standard tie.
Avoid clip-ons, even with a tuxedo.
If you are going to wear a bow tie,
here's a simple way of making a neat
bow:

1. Pull left end to extend IV2 inches

below right end.
2. Cross long end over short end and
pull up through loop from the back.
Pull tight.
3. Fold short end to form front loop
of bow.
4. While securing front loop with left
hand, pull long end down across
loop center.
5. Loop long end around right fore-
finger toward chest.
6. Push new loop through knot be-
hind first loop. Pull tight and adjust
evenly.

Now read on to find out the best ways

to successfully put your coat, shirt,
and tie together. Although each is im-
portant separately, your overall image
depends on how well you combine
them.

Look at this illustration as if you were looking in a

mirror.
CHAPTER

11
COMBINING COAT,
SHIRT, AND TIE

U s i n g your seasonal chart and the guidelines in this chapter you

can combine your suits and sport coats with shirts and ties with minimal effort
and maximum impact.
The approach to putting your clothes together is always the same. Think of
your suit as your basic building block. It establishes the overall color, style, and
look you are aiming for. Your shirt can be your white or any light color in your
palette that is compatible with the suit and the occasion. Your tie must then relate
to the shirt color, the suit color, or both.
With those principles in mind, follow these do's and don'ts to enjoy the pleasure
of putting yourself together with grace and impact.

DO: BUY ONLY COLORS FROM YOUR CHART

Buying clothes exclusively in your colors is the secret to successful color com-
binations. Using the Color for Men system, blending suits or coats with your shirts
and ties will be more fun and much easier than ever before. All your clothes will
go together because they are in compatible colors of your season and because you
will buy shirts and ties that work interchangeably with your suits. If you have
suits in the wrong colors, I realize you may have to purchase a few compromise
ties until you are able to phase out the suit (and the tie!). But once your wardrobe
has completed its transition, don't buy anything new in a wrong color.
164/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

DO: COMBINE THREE SOLIDS

Wearing a solid-color shirt, suit, and tie is perfectly acceptable and a sure way
to look good. This is not a boring look if the colors are compatible [which they
automatically are, using the Color for Men system) and look terrific on you (which
they will). It is low-key, suitable for business, but also elegant. After all, what's
more elegant than a tuxedo?
Although all three clothing items are solids, you are actually combining only
two colors, or two colors plus one neutral. Here are some rules for combining
three solids tastefully and effectively.

• If your shirt is your season's white, pale gray, or beige (i.e., pale neutral),
then your suit and tie may be two distinctly different colors. Usually your
tie will be the accent color. In sportswear the same principle applies, as long
as the pants are gray, beige/tan, or your white.

Here are examples, by season, of combinations of three solids with a

neutral shirt and two distinct colors, using the tie as accent:

Winter: navy suit; white shirt; blue-red tie.

Summer: navy suit; soft white shirt; burgundy tie.
Autumn: navy suit; oyster shirt; rust or bittersweet red tie.
Spring: navy suit; ivory shirt; light rust tie.

• If your shirt is a color (blue, pink, etc.), then two of the three clothing items
must be from the same color family. A color family is a series of tints or
shades of the same color. Light blue and navy are both from the blue family.
Pink and burgundy are from the blue-red family. Peach and rust are from
the orange-red family. Other same-color combinations are beige and brown,
buff and golden brown, ivory and camel, gray and black, salmon and tomato
red.
 COMBINING COAT, SHIRT, AND TIE/165

Here are examples, by season, of combinations of three solids in which

the shirt is a color and the tie is in the same color family as either the
shirt or the suit:

Winter: navy suit; icy pink shirt; bright burgundy tie (tie and shirt
are same color family).
Summer: blue-gray suit; light blue shirt; navy tie (tie and shirt are
same color family).
Autumn: coffee suit; peach shirt; brown tie (tie and suit are same
color family).
Spring: tan suit; peach shirt; light rust tie (tie and shirt are same
color family).

DO: COMBINE TWO SOLIDS WITH ONE PATTERN

The second surefire look is created by combining two solids or semi-solids with
one pattern. A semi-solid is a pattern that is so subtle that it gives the appearance
of being solid. This can include a suit with a pattern that fades into the overall
background or a tweed that is so closely woven with noncontrasting colors that
the eye perceives it as solid.

• If you choose a patterned tie, it must pick up the suit color, the shirt color,
or both colors.

Your tie must have some reasonable relationship to the color of your suit or
your shirt, preferably both. The most common error is choosing a tie that doesn't
relate to both items or, sometimes, even to one. For best results, try to pick a tie
pattern that repeats the suit color and the shirt color. If that's not possible, then
repeat at least one. It's okay to have a few extra colors in the pattern as long as
the suit and/or shirt colors are there.
In sportswear, your patterned tie may pick up the color of the pants instead of
the shirt and/or coat.
166/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

Here are examples, by season, of combining two solids with a

patterned tie:

Winter: navy suit; white shirt; navy, red, and white striped tie.
Summer: navy suit; soft white shirt; foulard tie with burgundy
background and navy, soft white, and medium blue
pattern.
Autumn: navy suit; oyster shirt; paisley tie in brown, blue, oyster
white, and beige.
Spring: navy suit; ivory shirt; striped or plaid tie in shades of red,
light blue, navy, and ivory.

• If you choose a patterned shirt it must pick up the color family of either the
suit or the tie.
The solid tie should not be the same color as the solid suit unless it matches
exactly, which is nearly impossible. Unmatching navies are a common error.

Here are examples, by season, of combining two solids with a

patterned shirt:

Winter: navy suit; red tie; dark blue and white hairline-striped
shirt.
Summer: navy suit; red tie; light blue and white oxford-striped shirt.
Autumn: navy suit; bittersweet tie; bittersweet and oyster white
oxford-striped shirt.
Spring: navy suit; rust tie; tattersall check shirt in blue and brown.

• If you choose a patterned suit containing threads of color woven into the
background, the tie must pick up a color from the suit.
 COMBINING COAT, SHIRT, AND T I E / 1 6 7

If you choose a monochromatic, patterned suit, the solid tie can be a dif-
ferent, contrasting color.

In sportswear, if you choose a patterned jacket, the same principles apply

for the shirt and tie. The solid pants should pick up a color from the jacket.

Here are examples, by season, of combining two solids with a

patterned suit:

Winter: charcoal gray pinstriped suit; white shirt; red tie.

Summer: blue-gray glen plaid suit with subtle burgundy threads; soft
white shirt; burgundy tie.
Autumn: brown and beige tweed suit; oyster shirt; bittersweet tie.
Spring: herringbone suit in golden brown, tan, and light beige;
ivory shirt; brown or rust tie.

DO: COMBINE ONE SOLID WITH TWO NONCOMPETING

PATTERNS
This combination is tricky because it leaves room for error. It's not as sure or easy
as combining three solids, or two solids and one pattern. When done correctly,
this combination subtly announces that you know your clothing! When wrong,
alas, it loudly proclaims the opposite.
If you are unsure of your ability to recognize noncompeting patterns, avoid
putting two patterns adjacent to each other and you'll be safer. In other words,
your shirt will be solid.
In sportswear, the same principles apply. Whether you choose a patterned coat
or patterned pants, your second pattern will probably be your tie. The other two
items will be solids.
The basic principles are:
• Use a subtle pattern with a stronger one. Two subtle ones look washed out.
Two bold ones are garish. A pinstriped shirt, which is subtle and evenly
spaced, looks best if the tie has widish stripes rather than thin, evenly spaced
stripes.
• Keep the lines of the patterns the same, or use one directional pattern with
one all-over pattern. Because both plaids and stripes have directional lines,
they usually don't mix well with each other because the lines compete.
However, a subtle stripe can mix with a bolder stripe or a subtle checked
shirt can mix with a plaid tie because the lines are similar. Foulard, paisley,
and club ties are all-over patterns, as are tweed, herringbone, tiny box checks,
or very subtle glen plaids in suits. These patterns can often mix with stripes
or plaids. Two all-over patterns can mix as well, as long as one is subtle and
the other stronger, or one is large and the other smaller.

Here are examples of combining a patterned suit or coat and tie with a
solid shirt:

• Pinstriped suit; striped, foulard, or dot tie; solid shirt.

• Chalkstriped suit; heavier pattern in stripes, foulard, or dot tie;
solid shirt.
• Seersucker suit; club, foulard, or soft, wider-striped tie; solid shirt.
• Subtle business tweed or herringbone suit; striped or foulard tie;
solid shirt.
• Heavy tweed sport coat; wider-striped, ribbed knit, or club tie;
solid shirt; solid pants.
• Wool houndstooth pants; subtle striped or ribbed knit tie; solid
shirt; solid coat.
 COMBINING COAT, SHIRT, AND TIE/169

Right: Patterned suit, solid shirt, patterned tie. Right: Patterned suit, patterned shirt, solid tie.

Right: Patterned shirt, patterned tie, solid suit. Wrong: Never combine 3 patterns.
170/COLQR FOR MEN

Here are examples of combining a patterned suit and shirt with a solid
tie:

• Pinstriped suit; subtle hairline-striped or soft oxford-striped shirt;

solid tie.
• Chalkstriped suit; subtle oxford-striped or thin-striped shirt; solid
tie.
• Tweed sport coat; subtle tattersall checked shirt; solid tie.
• Herringbone suit; pale striped shirt; solid tie.

Here are examples of combining a solid suit, patterned shirt, and

patterned tie:

• Solid suit; subtle hairline-striped shirt; striped or foulard tie.

• Solid suit; subtle oxford-striped shirt; irregularly wider-striped,
foulard, or club tie.
• Solid suit; subtle plaid shirt; wider-striped or plaid tie, or ribbed
knit where the texture appears patterned.
• Solid suit; subtle tattersall checked shirt; club tie.
• Solid suit; white-on-white shirt; any patterned tie.

Any patterned shirt that is not subtle should be worn with a solid tie.

DON'T: COMBINE THREE PATTERNS

There is no quicker way to ruin your image than to clutter yourself with too many
patterns. You automatically draw the eye away from your face and call attention
to the clothes. True, if you are terribly clever you might come up with some good
pattern combinations. However, they will look better on the hanger than under
 COMBINING COAT, SHIRT, AND TIE/171

your face. Each pattern competes with the other and the eye has to move around
trying to decipher the picture. Your impact is diminished.

DO: STRIVE FOR CONTRAST

It always looks best to have contrast between suit and shirt, shirt and tie. Think
how boring a man looks in a gray suit, a white shirt, and the same color gray tie.
But change that tie to red, navy, black, or even charcoal gray, and you have an
entirely different impression!
There are two ways to create contrast: dark and light, or light and bright. Some
men need more contrast than others, depending on their season. A blue shirt with
a medium blue tie offers medium contrast; a white shirt with a navy tie offers
high contrast. The first is fine for Summers, the latter for Winters. All men need
some degree of contrast to look exciting.
Contrast is the way to successfully pull off a monochromatic look. Mix a dark
brown suit, beige shirt, and coffee tie—elegant. Even though the colors are all
from the brown family, they offer varying degrees of intensity.
There are three basic combinations:

• With a dark suit, wear a light shirt and a bright, medium, or dark tie.
• With a medium suit, wear a light shirt and a dark tie.
• With a light suit, wear a medium shirt and a dark tie. A medium shirt might
be an end-on-end weave, which is darker than an oxford cloth. Winters, who
can't wear medium shirts, wear a white or striped shirt and a dark or brightish
tie.

DO: COMBINE COMPATIBLE FABRICS

Fabric varies in three ways: weight, texture, and finish.
The weight of a fabric depends on its content and the density of its weave. In
wool suits, winter weights can be heavy and thick (up to twelve ounces). The
year-round wools are medium and thinner (eight to ten ounces). Lighter weights,
called tropicals, are thin and may be wool, cotton, linen, or blends.
Texture is determined by the nubbiness of a fabric. Knits, tweeds, and corduroys
are heavily textured. Worsteds, tightly woven wools, fine cotton, and silk are
generally smooth in texture.
172/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

Finish has to do with the sheen of fabrics. Finishes range from such flat matte
finishes as a flannel suit, an oxford cloth shirt, or a wool tie to the high sheen in
a silk tie.
When combining the weight, texture, and finish of a coat or suit, shirt, and tie,
keep likes with likes. Heavy goes with heavyish, nubby goes with matte, smooth
goes with a sheen. A tweed jacket (nubby matte finish) goes with a knit (matte
finish) wool tie, and a solid worsted suit (smooth) with a silk tie (sheen).

Here are examples of appropriate fabric combinations:

• A nubby tweed sport coat; an oxford cloth shirt; a medium-weight

textured knit tie.
• A smooth worsted formal suit; a silk or fine broadcloth shirt; a
silk tie.
• A lightweight poplin summer suit; either an oxford or broadcloth
shirt; a cotton madras tie.
• Corduroy pants; a heavy flannel shirt.

In the springtime, when you bring out your lighter-weight, smooth-finish wool
suit, it would be inappropriate to wear your heavy wool, loose-weave tie, even
if the color is right. The weight and texture are wrong. That suit may be worn
with either a tightly woven lightweight wool tie or a silk tie.

DON'T: MIX STYLES OF CLOTHING

Clothing automatically has a style. It is dressy or casual, woodsy or executive,
city or country, faddish or classic, depending on its color, line, fabric, and pattern.
Obviously you would not wear a corduroy jacket with your pinstriped pants. But
there are subtler combinations that clash and ruin your image, too.
Color that is bright tends to be sporty, casual, or festive. Bright colors are only
businesslike when used as accents, such as stripes in a tie. Pastels are fashion
colors when worn in suits or sport coats, but are conservative in business shirts.
Dark colors are classic business and traditional country sports colors.
 COMBINING COAT, SHIRT, AND TIE/173

Patterns can be either conservative or sporty. Subtle patterns are classic, bold
ones are sporty. Plaid, paisley, and club tie patterns are sporty. Striped, polka-
dot, and foulard patterns are more formal. However, some striped ties are casual,
and some parsleys are more formal, depending on their colors, ancj their fabric.
Fabric is also dressy or casual. Knits and tweeds are sporty. Worsteds and silks
are dressy. A silk shirt would never be worn with a nubby knit tie.
The cut or styling line of a garment determines a lot about its character. That
is why a European cut suit in a fine flat wool and conservative color does not go
with an oxford cloth button-down shirt. The styles clash, and so do the textures.
The suit demands a clean line and a fine, smooth texture; the button-down has
a chunky line and a rough texture. Similarly, bellbottom pants don't go with a
tapered double-breasted blazer. A collar pin in a business shirt looks wrong with
a tweed sport coat.

SUMMARY
Here is a summary of the do's and don'ts of successfully combining
your coat, shirt, and tie:

• Do: Buy only colors from your chart

• Do: Combine three solids
• Do: Combine two solids with one pattern
• Do: Combine one solid with two noncompeting patterns
• Don't: Combine three patterns
• Do: Strive for contrast
• Do: Combine compatible fabrics
• Don't: Mix styles of clothing

Now that you know the rules for putting your clothes and your colors together,
you are ready to begin refining your look and thinking about your personal style.
CHAPTER

YOUR CLOTHING
PERSONALITY

W h i l e attending a formal rehearsal dinner, I was introduced to some

of the groom's college buddies who had flown in from New York for the occasion.
All worked on Wall Street and all wore collar pins—popular in New York. One
young man was a former football player, short and stocky, with sandy crew-cut
hair and a rough, craggy face still sporting scars from his days on the field. His
pink broadcloth, round-collared shirt with collar pin looked strikingly wrong.
This ruggedly masculine face and body was out of character in such a formal,
elegant, and fashion-oriented shirt. For him, a plain-collared broadcloth shirt—
minus pin—would have looked formal, harmonious, and flattering.
What is your clothing personality? As you go through life you begin to get a
feel for what clothing styles really are you. Perhaps you long for the David Niven
country gentlemen look, but your body and face call for the John Wayne image—
rugged and casual. Maybe you feel you must have a pinstriped suit, but you never
feel good in it and never receive compliments while wearing it. There's a reason
for this.
To really look good, your clothes must reflect not only your inner spirit but
also your physical self. Doesn't it make sense that your coloring, your build, and
your facial structure would play a part in determining your best clothing image?
Inner spirit counts, too, but not to the point that you spoil your natural qualities
by trying to be something you are not.
 YOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY/175

You don't ever have to wear anything that doesn't flatter you just to fit a mold.
Whether it's a social or corporate image you seek, you can always dress appro-
priately without sacrificing your best look.
Your season gives you the first clue about your image because your coloring
and the colors you wear automatically make a statement. In general, a Winter
looks best in solid colors, sharp contrasts, and a crisp silhouette—a rather formal
look. A Summer man is more flattered by gentler contrasts, subtler patterns, and
slightly softer fabrics. The Autumn man, with his warm coloring, looks especially
good in tweeds, plaids, and rich, nubby fabrics, sophisticated but casual, while
Spring is best in informal, relaxed clothing, also textured but always youthful,
with colorful striped or checked shirts and ties.
But what if you are a Winter with light brown hair, blue eyes, a slight build,
and a boyish face? You might not look your best when dressed in formal three-
piece suits with boldly striped ties. If you are a tall, slim Spring with elegantly
refined facial features and smooth, white-blond hair, you are more formal and
sleek than the casual Spring man described above.
So you need to take into consideration not only your seasonal coloring but also
your size, body structure, and facial features.

CLOTHING TYPES
There are five basic clothing personality types: Dramatic, Romantic, Natural, Clas-
sic, and Gamin. These clothing images are not absolute and they may overlap,
but depending on your individual personality, lifestyle, and work environment,
you can use them to influence your clothing selections in order to look and feel
your best.

Dramatic
You are a man of design, style, detail, and sharp contrasts. The dramatic man is
authoritative, innovative, assertive. Everything about his appearance makes a bold
statement; his clothes are of the latest fashion, but not faddish.
The man who can wear dramatic attire is usually tall and lean, sometimes very
thin, with broad, horizontal shoulders. Your body tends to have long, vertical
lines rather than a chunky look, and your hair is dark or strikingly blond or gray.
Nothing about you is middle of the road. You have angular facial features, perhaps
a sharply pointed nose or chin, and an angular body. You have a certain elegance
about you, and walk with large strides and a confident air. You have built-in
176/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

authority by virtue of your size and striking coloring. Your looks call for you to
dress with authority, sophistication, and a degree of formality. In general, you
wear bold or dark colors mixed with your season's white for maximum contrast.
On you, more is still conservative. Relative to your size and coloring, more still
looks like less. Even your hair can be a bit long, but must be styled and controlled,
definitely in touch with the latest fashion.

BUSINESS CLOTHES: You can easily achieve the corporate image, but your tall,
thin body just doesn't call for a two-piece sack suit. On you it looks dumpy. For
business or dress you look best in a boldly structured silhouette, such as a Eu-
ropean- or updated American-cut suit with a constructed shoulder (maybe even
roped and squarish), an average width lapel, vertical seams in the jacket, a slightly
fitted waist, and a vest. You may wear a single or double vent, depending on your
personality and job environment. Your style calls for cuffless pants unless your
legs are so long that you want to minimize them. For social occasions you may
want to buy a double-breasted suit. If your work allows you the freedom to be a
little more stylish, do so. On you, less conservative clothes still look conservative
because they are in harmony with your body type.
You look best in a dark, solid three-piece suit in navy, charcoal gray, or brown,
depending on your season, worn with crisp white or light shirts. You are also the
perfect candidate for pinstriped suits—either one quarter or one half inch, which-
ever is more harmonious with your size. High-contrast prints—such as a light
pinstripe on a dark background—are appropriately sharp on you, but you find
most checks and plaids too blended or casual. A bold plaid in dark colors and a
rough fabric could work for you. You don't wear tweeds well because they offer
so little contrast, though a striking herringbone might be all right for variety.
You wear stiffer fabrics, such as heavy gabardine or smooth worsteds, with a
firm finish and a crisp silhouette. No flannels for you—at least not the kind that
look fuzzy. You're a formal fellow, really, and not very soft around the edges.

DRESSY SPORTSWEAR: You dress boldly in sportswear, too, and favor ex-
tremes—either solid, dark-colored blazers (maybe even double-breasted) or a
heavily textured or patterned sport coat (say, a bold houndstooth check). Subtle
tweeds just fade away on you. Pleated wool pants are great on you, though you
can wear nonpleated slacks just as well. You will always wear wool or cotton
pants rather than cords or jeans with your sport coat.
 YOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY/177

Dramatic

\
178/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

SHIRTS: You look best in a crisp, light shirt (solid white, light pastel, or icy)
with a plain pointed collar, either regular or wide spread. Choose cotton broad-
cloth with a hard finish for the sharpest look. Also excellent on you are bold
stripes, hairline stripes, and bold plaids. A colored shirt with a contrasting white
collar and cuff might work—probably with a stripe, and usually best for Winters—
and you may want to wear a collar pin once in a while. You practically never
wear oxford cloth button-downs, knits, or checks or muted plaids. You tend to
dress up a little more than the next fellow, and French cuffs are your thing.

TIES: Your ties must always make a strong statement and offer sharp contrast to
your shirt, though you can also wear a monochromatic look with a shirt and tie
from the same color family. Solid colors, especially dark or bright reds, are ex-
cellent. Your best patterns are stripes with bold contrasts, either a widely spaced
pinstripe or widish stripes irregularly spaced. An overall geometric pattern is
good. A foulard is usually not expressive enough for you, but it may work if you
choose one with a repeat pattern of high contrast and sharp lines (diamonds rather
than circles). Any dot pattern should be extreme, preferably with large dots—
medium looks boring on you. Any pattern you choose should offer contrast within
the tie. Plaids and checks are too casual for you, and club ties are too conservative.
You look great in a silk tie with a sheen. One word of caution: be careful not to
ruin your look with loud ties that are not tasteful. A dramatic look simply calls
for more contrast, darker or brighter colors, straight rather than curved lines in
patterns.

SHOES: For work, your shoes are smooth, highly polished oxfords with a medium
to thin sole and a slightly pointed toe without wing tip. These shoes are okay for
dressy sportswear, too, though you might want a dressy loafer.

CASUAL WEAR: The Dramatic man always likes to make a fashion statement
and dresses in outfits. For horseback riding you have riding clothes; for on the
court, tennis whites. Your casual clothes can be stripes or solids, again offering
contrast, or brightly colored polo shirts. You are a man of extremes in texture and
expression. If you are conservative, keep your casual clothes relatively formal
with nonpleated slacks in wools (cold weather) or cottons and gabardines. Less
conservative types can wear pleats and suspenders, baggy chinos, or funkier cloth-
 YOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY/179

ing. Jeans are your least best look just because they are so average. Wear designer
jeans or tight jeans or baggy jeans. Choose sweaters of heavy cable knits or geo-
metric patterns or stripes, either form-fitting or on the baggy side. If a pair of silk
lounging pajamas and a smoking jacket really appeal to you, you know you have
a Dramatics flair.

COATS: Your topcoat might be either a dark double-breasted overcoat of cash-

mere or fine wool or a heavily textured wraparound with a tie belt. Your trenchcoat
can't be ordinary. Skip the Burberry and go for something with a bold silhouette.
Think oversize for coats. Wear anything big and bulky—you can carry it off! An
extremely padded shoulder or a dropped shoulder make a strong fashion state-
ment for you, and dark colors work well.

JEWELRY: Any jewelry you wear should look important. Your watch should be
large rather than slimline, with either a textured leather or a metal band. You
might wear a ring with a stone or large cuff links that make a statement. Nothing
dinky for you.

FORMAL: A tuxedo looks great on you. If you are a Winter you'll stick to a black
tux because it looks so dashing on you, but you could wear an unusual color—
burgundy, dark navy, dark brown, or even a very light color, depending on your
season.

DRAMATIC PROTOTYPES: Sean Connery, Errol Flynn, Clark Gable, Burt Lan-
caster, Ricardo Montalban, Charlton Heston, Jack Palance, George Hamilton

Romantic
You are the man who calls for a rich, luxurious, well-blended look. The Romantic
is a Romeo—a lover, not a fighter. You're gracious and suave, with the air of an
artist or poet about you. Very sensual and very social, you have expensive tastes
and a bit of theatrical flair. Everything about you suggests wealth, sophistication,
and the bedroom. The Romantic is a people person and can be found in highly
visible positions—both at work and at play. In general, you're naturally interested
in fashion and grooming, and you need to restrain your flamboyance rather than
strive for an energetic look.
1 8 Q / C 0 L 0 R FOR MEN

The Romantic man is moderately tall with an athletic but not overdeveloped
build—strong but not bulky. Romantics tend to have beautiful eyes and skin and
thick hair—curly, wavy, or straight, but always luxurious. Your face is expressive
and well-proportioned, important to your overall look. Sophisticated and sexy,
you're influenced by current fashions and have a love of soft fabrics and luxurious
colors. A rather formal dresser, you choose clothes fitted to show off your body
symmetry; all detail serves to frame your face.

BUSINESS CLOTHES: If you work in a field that allows for less conservative
dress, you can really go for a high-fashion look. A fitted European-cut suit is your
best look, with either double vents or no vent (a single vent is too boxy for you).
Padded shoulders and a very suppressed waist flatter your lithe silhouette. A
double-breasted jacket is good for you, too. If your profession requires a conser-
vative image, choose the updated American-cut suit, with a suppressed waist and
padded shoulder. Leave off the vest—it's a boring look for you. Avoid sharp lines
in favor of a smooth, slightly curved silhouette. Choose fine wools and cashmere
rather than stiff fabrics or gabardine. Soft, lightweight woolens suit your look and
your expensive tastes. Your favorite textured fabric will be very soft; your favorite
colors are the richest (not darkest) colors of your palette—lush colors of medium
intensity such as rich navy or warm coffee brown. For suits, solids are best, though
stripes in soft textures and woven-in designs can work well for you. Patterns, if
any, should be in a small scale, and plaids aren't really for you.

DRESSY SPORTSWEAR: This is your best style—the clothes in which you are
most comfortable. The Romantic favors elegant sportswear—a fitted cashmere
jacket, for example. He avoids patterned sport coats or any highly contrasting
separates. He wears trendy looks—Italian sportswear that is fitted to the body.
Pleated pants are fine as long as they are fairly fitted in the hips and buttocks.
You enjoy special jackets, such as one that's short and fitted in a buttery leather,
or something long and draped and stylish. Soft wool, suede, and silk make ex-
cellent jackets for you.

SHIRTS: Since your face is one of your best features, unusual collars are your
forte. Collar pins or lapel pins are excellent on you, as are round collars, wing
collars, or any very high collars. For corporate attire, wear an unstarched standard
collar in a thin, smooth broadcloth, and in other professions choose a fabric such
182/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

as silk or cotton batiste. Avoid overly crisp shirts—they are cold for a Romantic.
Do wear some color, rather than white, but stick mostly to solids. Stripes are not
your best look unless they are very well-blended and soft. French cuffs suit your
formal and sophisticated look.

TIES: Go for silk, either shiny or raw (matte), in a well-blended design—never

a knit or woven tie. Solids are your absolute best. Since your overall look is
harmonious, choose a tie that is in medium contrast to your shirt, either solids
or a pattern that has colors from both your jacket and shirt. In patterns, stripes
must be well-blended and paisleys are best in shiny silk with a watercolor effect.
Foulards are not the Romantic's best look because they are too crisp and pre-
dictable. If you need them for corporate wear, choose repeat patterns in teardrop
or oval shapes. Pin dots on shiny silk are good, but avoid medium or large dots.
Avoid patterns with rigid structures or defined edges. Unusual ties—narrow ones,
for example—are good.

SHOES: Never one to wear a heavy oxford or wing tips, you will choose a light-
weight Italian-look shoe with a thin sole, or an elegant boot of very fine, soft
leather or suede.

CASUAL WEAR: Both elegant and trendy, your casual wear should look expen-
sive and reflect your sophisticated flamboyance. You wear designer jeans, smooth
leather pants, wing-collared shirts, and fashion colors. Choose a short leather
jacket with epaulets or a military jacket with lots of detail.

COATS: Overcoats must have shape and a fitted silhouette. Padded shoulders
are important, and wrap belts work well. Choose soft woolens or cashmere if
possible.

JEWELRY: Used as an accent and not overdone, jewelry is great on the Romantic
man—a collar bar or a ring with a stone, for example, but no heavy neck chains.
Your watch is a simple, but elegant, slim line with either a metal or smooth leather
band. Think tasteful and subtle.

FORMAL: A truly formal look, though flattering, can look too severe on you.
Although a fussy look doesn't suit you, you can take some liberties with your
formal look—a jeweled lapel pin, a white tux, or a red tie and cummerbund. Tails
 YOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY/183

and a fitted waist in your formal jacket work for you. If the occasion allows, try
something different, such as a velvet jacket and silk shirt over designer jeans.

ROMANTIC PROTOTYPES: Christopher Atkins, Richard Gere, Michael Jackson,

Sugar Ray Leonard, John Schneider, Omar Sharif, Billy Dee Williams, Michael
York, Elvis Presley, Lorenzo Lamas

Natural
You are the man who calls for textures, tweeds, informality, and a blended look.
The Natural man is usually of sturdy or athletic build. Your face may be craggy
with irregular features, or perhaps you have a square jaw and wide-set eyes or
simply a rugged and outdoorsy look. You might have freckles, and your hair is
rarely glossy. Your stride is easy and you have a down-to-earth look about you.
The Natural is an informal dresser who is rarely comfortable all dressed up and
gets the most compliments in jeans and sweaters. You look best in casual, relaxed
clothing and in the colors from your palette that are closest to nature, especially
the browns, greens, and blues. Your hair is loose and wavy, or short, straight, and
layered—casual rather than overly controlled, and always with the dry look. And
you're the guy who can wear a beard or mustache well.

RUSINESS CLOTHES: A two-piece suit is better for you than a three-piece, which
looks overly formal and stuffy on you. Your suit should be fuller cut, with a relaxed
shoulder. If you are athletic but thin, you will have to buy a slimmer cut suit, but
it should not be tapered too much at the waist. You would never wear trendy
cuts in suits.
Your best suits for work are solid flannels in a medium color, or perhaps a
subtle glen plaid, check, tweed, or other pattern. Dark solids may look severe on
you, and pinstripes are definitely too formal and stiff. (You can survive in the
business world without owning a pinstripe!) At most you would wear a subtle
chalk stripe, preferably in colors without much contrast.
Your best fabrics are heavyish with some texture and always a matte (nonshiny)
finish or a nap: flannel, corduroy, and looser weaves. Nothing shiny, fancy, or
too formal.

DRESSY SPORTSWEAR: If your work environment allows for slacks and sport
coats, so much the better. You are better looking in a sport coat than in a suit.
184/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

Think texture. A corduroy jacket or a heavy wool, tweed, or check are your best
looks. A camel jacket is ideal for you if you are an Autumn or Spring. Your best
dress-up attire is sportswear whenever possible, and you can be quite natty in a
country tweed with leather patches on the elbows and perhaps a turtleneck in-
stead of a shirt and tie. Patch pockets and topstitching really are your look.

SHIRTS: You are best in oxford cloth for work and for social occasions except
when the event calls for formal attire. Broadcloth is dress-up for you. Button-
down collars are great for you, but no round collars or collar pins. They're too
fancy and lack the masculinity needed to look harmonious with your face and
body. Plaids and checks are your best patterns. Subtle, blended, broad stripes are
okay, but no severe or formal hairline stripes.

TIES: You go for less sharp contrast in your coat, shirt, and tie combinations.
The monochromatic look—using colors from the same color family in varying
degrees of intensity—is ideal for the Natural. Your best tie patterns are plaids
and checks or wide stripes in muted colors creating a blended look. Foulard ties
with square designs are better than rounds or ovals. No dots for you—they're too
formal. Paisleys are sophisticated yet natural, especially in the warm palettes,
and are a good dress look for the Natural man. Texture and matte finishes are
again wonderful. Ribbed knits, wools, nubby linen (in summer), and nonshiny
silks are best.

SHOES: Shoes for the Natural are a dressy loafer for business and a more casual
one for sportswear. You might wear a textured leather oxford with a heavy sole,
wing tip, and topstitching, or perhaps even a saddle shoe with your tweed sport
coat. Your shoes have a widish American toe rather than a European look.

CASUAL WEAR: Casual wear is your thing. You may prefer to wear the colors
closest to nature in your palette, and you definitely wear natural fabrics such as
linen looks and cotton. Wear khakis, cords, and jeans with turtlenecks, plaid
flannel shirts, button-downs, or short-sleeved cottons and T-shirts for warm
weather. As usual for you, plaids, checks, and solids in nubby fabrics are best.
Your sweaters are crewnecks or bulky, textured pullovers. No argyles or fancy
patterns. Nonshiny leather is best for boots, belts, or any accessories.
 YOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY/185

Natural

i
186/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

COATS: You may not want a topcoat because they're so formal, and you can
wear your trenchcoat almost anywhere nbw anyway. If you do want a wool top-
coat, choose a double- or single-breasted/camel polo if you're a warm season, or
a single-breasted beige or blue if you're a cool season. Shaggy furs or shearling
suit you well, as do nonshiny leathers such as sheepskin. Your trenchcoat is either
the single-breasted simple one with raglan sleeves or a traditional military trench
with epaulets and heavy trim. If you are a thin and lanky Natural, forget the
gewgaws; they'll overwhelm you.

JEWELRY: Jewelry, if any, would be heavy and masculine—but probably you

don't wear any. Your watch should not be too thin, and could have a leather strap
rather than a metal band.

FORMAL: A tuxedo is your least favorite item of clothing. Choose a simple pleated
shirt in the color of your season and, if possible, a tuxedo in your color as well.
For other social occasions, the Natural man can always dress in sportier attire
than the Dramatic or Classic man. On you, a beautiful sport coat, wool slacks, a
shirt, and a tie looks dressy. For weddings, funerals, and formal affairs, wear your
suit in a medium color rather than a dark one.

NATURAL PROTOTYPES: Alan Alda, Harrison Ford, Bruce Jenner, Calvin Klein,
Joe Namath, O. J. Simpson, John Wayne, Robert Redford, Tom Selleck, Clint East-
wood, Michael Landon, Robert Conrad, Gene Hackman, John Riggins

Classic
The Classic man's looks call for simplicity, quality, and moderation.
Your body is of average proportions, not too tall or short, neither lanky nor
extremely muscular. Your facial features are evenly proportioned and regular,
with no prominent features such as a big nose or a very square jaw. Your face
has refined features and your coloring is medium. Everything about you is so-
phisticated and moderate. Your demeanor is conservative, poised, slightly formal,
but not stuffy. Nothing you wear should be extreme in style, fabric, texture, or
color. Simplicity of line and detail suit you best. You are the traditional type, a
fashion conservative. Because you do not look good in fads, gimmicks, or high-
fashion clothes, or in any form of bold or extreme patterns, you must rely on fine
fabric and beautifully tailored, conservative clothes. You cannot get away with
 YOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY/187

rumpled or ill-fitting clothing. You must look fastidious, even if it's not truly your
nature. You look best with a relatively short, conservative hairstyle—always
combed and neatly in place.

BUSINESS CLOTHES: For business you wear two-piece suits on most days,
reserving three-piece suits for important meetings or dressy occasions. You wear
the traditional Ivy League suit (Brooks Brothers) or, if you are slim, the updated
American silhouette. Choose a suit with a relaxed, unstructured shoulder but
slightly trimmer at the waist. You don't want topstitching or any sporty or faddish
details.
Because Classic represents the middle value in body type, size, and coloring,
you look great in most classic patterns as long as they are moderate in scale and
contrast—a subdued pinstripe or chalk stripe, for example, or a small check or
medium-scaled, subtle plaid. Your season dictates your best patterns: Winters in
stripes, windowpanes, and herringbones; Summers in stripes and soft tweeds;
Autumns in tweeds and plaids; Springs in plaids and checks. Solids are excellent
for all.
Your best fabrics are light- to medium-weight worsteds or very thin, tightly
woven flannels and tweeds with a firm finish.

DRESSY SPORTSWEAR: Your first sport coat is a solid single-breasted blazer

in a nice wool fabric. Next is a herringbone or tweed in a fairly fine texture. You
do not wear heavily textured or boldly patterned fabrics well, even in sportswear.
Classic styles in wool slacks are for you—no exaggerated pleats, flared legs, or
trendy items. You might wear tweed, checked, or plaid wool slacks for a bit of
dash.

SHIRTS: You go for an understated look, and are best in white or solid pastel
shirts (especially blue) in oxford button-down for day and broadcloth plain collars
for evening or special occasions. For a natty look, you might wear a collar pin or
a colored shirt with a white collar. You don't wear many patterned shirts, save
an occasional subtle stripe or a white on white. Although plaids and checks are
not your thing, you can wear a tattersall check with a solid blazer for sport. In
general, you'll wear a shirt and tie rather than a turtleneck with your sport coat
for special events.
188/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

Classic
 YOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY/189

TIES: Your tie is also conservative, but does not have to be dull. Foulard ties are
your best pattern, with the repeats in oval or rounded shapes. You can wear thin,
evenly spaced stripes, or irregular stripes in moderate widths and traditional
colors. Club ties are great, especially with a sport coat, but most plaids or checks
are too casual and sporty for you. A silk tie is your best fabric, though thin wools
and linens (in summer) are fine, too. Either a matte or a slight sheen works well
on you. A slight sheen is best as a dressy look. Never wear any loud or boldly
patterned tie; there is nothing eccentric about your body, so you can't wear ec-
centric clothing.

SHOES: Shoes for business are lace-up oxfords with a medium sole and an Amer-
ican wide-cut toe, with or without wing tips. The leather can be smooth or lightly
textured. If you're the elegant type, you might wear a smooth oxford with a Eu-
ropean toe, especially for dress. For sportswear you wear your oxfords or a dressy
loafer.

CASUAL WEAR: The Classic man's casual clothes are crisp and clean. Wool or
cotton pants, ironed blue jeans (if any) with oxford cloth button-downs in the
wintertime and polo shirts in the summertime. You might even be preppy and
inclined toward plaid pants if you're not too conservative. Although you will
probably not wear funky, way-out colors in sport shirts, you can wear fun colors
in basic reds, blues, greens, and yellows.

COATS: Your best topcoat is a single-breasted wool with simple details—no

topstitching, epaulets, etc. Your trenchcoat may be single- or double-breasted, but
again with simple styling and no gimmicks. The traditional Burberry coat is your
look as well.

JEWELRY: Jewelry for the Classic is tasteful, refined, and minimal. A thin watch
with a metal or smooth leather band works well for you. A class ring is okay, but
no bracelets or neck chains.

FORMAL: You look great in a tuxedo because it gives you the opportunity to
dress like a Dramatic but-within the confines of tradition. You look better in
average lapels rather than the ones that point upwards toward the shoulder.
19Q/C0L0R FOR MEN

Choose pleated shirts rather than ruffles. You also look great dressed up in a
three-piece suit, which adds variety to your usual two-piece or business look.

CLASSIC PROTOTYPES: Richard Crenna, John Forsythe, Cary Grant, Gregory

Peck, Phil Donahue, Robert Young, Henry Fonda, Bing Crosby, Anthony Perkins,
Jerry Brown, John Glenn, Bryant Gumbel

Gamin
You are the man whose look is dapper, natty, crisp and very structured. The
Gamin man, small in stature, is flashy and full of energy, and is by nature quite
precise about the way he dresses.
The Gamin has a boyish face and body and a jaunty stride, and is perpetually
young-looking. You are a rather formal dresser and tend to be trendy and fashion
conscious with an eye for detail. You need to buy smaller patterns, scaled to your
size so they don't overwhelm your look. Though youthful-looking, your clothes
are always fitted and neat. Your hair may be curly and tousled or straight and
layered, but a long, slick style is not for you.

BUSINESS CLOTHES: You look great in a three-piece updated American cut

suit, especially in a bright and crisp glen plaid. Small patterns such as herring-
bones are great. The Gamin man can wear solids for contrast to his patterned
shirts and ties. He should avoid dull, dark colors. Pinstripes are too rigid for you,
but an irregular stripe might work. Choose stiff, crisp fabrics—tightly woven wor-
steds, gabardines, or cotton blends.

DRESSY SPORTSWEAR: A jacket and dress slacks is a great look for the effer-
vescent Gamin, since he favors a look that's youthful, fitted, and fashionable.
Strive for a crisp, snappy look—say, your season's navy blazer, white pants, and
an argyle sweater vest. Choose hard-finish wool fabrics, crisp cottons, or corduroys
and keep your tweeds, checks, and plaids in small scale. You look great in touches
of color, such as stripes or checks in sportswear and casual clothes. Combining
patterns, such as a striped shirt and striped tie, is a smart look for you.

SHIRTS: Gamins choose colors more than whites, and also favor plaids and
checks with contrast rather than a muted look. Colorful stripes work well on you,
as do tattersalls, and colored or patterned shirts with a contrasting white collar.
 YOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY/191

Gamin
192/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

You would choose a pattern over a solid most of the time, except with a patterned
suit. Always wear crisp, neatly pressed cottons and strive for high contrast in
your clothing combinations.

TIES: In patterns, choose colorful stripes or club ties with a highly contrasting
motif. Use solid-color ties to offer high contrast and a snappy accent to a patterned
shirt or suit. Choose a matte rather than a shiny finish. Avoid pin dots—they're
too formal, but a medium dot might work for you. Foulards work if the pattern
offers colorful contrast. Squares are better than ovals. A Gamin is the man who
can successfully wear a bow tie.

SHOES: You'll probably want a dressy loafer for business and perhaps a more
casual pair for sportswear. Gamins love detail. Wear tassels and buckles on your
shoes.

CASUAL WEAR: Gamins will go for color in their casual wear, used as stylish
accent or detail. You are a pressed and organized dresser even in your casual
wear. Wear argyle sweaters, pleated pants, and saddle shoes. Cuffed pants look
good on you because they add crisp lines. (Don't worry if your legs are short—
your total look is more important.) You need a broken, staccato look because of
your compact size and high energy level. In casual wear, you can break the rules
and get out of scale with wide stripes and wide-wale cords.

COATS: Choose a style that's trim and sharp-looking, such as a double-breasted

trenchcoat or a wool topcoat in solid or small tweed with set-in rather than raglan
sleeves. Epaulets are especially good for the Gamin.

JEWELRY: Gamins may wear a neck chain or ID bracelet, but always something
restrained. You're too precise to enjoy a large or fancy ring, for example.

FORMAL: You can wear a dark tuxedo well (especially if you're a Winter), since
on you the contrast with the shirt looks lively. Although you are an impeccably
correct dresser, you hate to be conventional. For variety, try a tux in your color,
wear a vest instead of a cummerbund, or try a plaid cummerbund and tie.
 YOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY/193

GAMIN PROTOTYPES: Johnny Carson, Sammy Davis, Jr., Dudley Moore, Ri-
chard Pryor, Joel Grey, Richard Simmons, Dick Cavett, Dick Clark, Red Buttons,
Roddy McDowall, Fred Astaire

YOUR OWN BEST LOOK

Many men can look believable in more than one look. Paul Newman's image in
a fisherman knit sweater is just as credible as his lawyer image in a three-piece
suit. Warren Beatty can smooth his hair into a conservative, traditional style and
go to work at IBM, or wear his hair wavy and loose and hang out in cords and
sweaters, or dress in structured European suits and look dramatic. His looks are
so versatile that simply by changing his hair and his demeanor he can pull off
almost any clothing image.
Whatever image you favor, just be sure it's believable on you. You have un-
doubtedly seen someone whose clothing was socially acceptable but looked all
wrong on him. Give yourself permission not to buy a tweed sport coat for variety
if you're a formal Winter who will always look best in a solid blazer. Skip the
pinstripe if you're a rugged outdoorsman caught in the trappings of a corporate
work environment. No one will ever notice that you don't own a pinstripe. They'll
just know that you always look nice in what you do have.
Understanding your clothing personality takes time and some experimenting.
But now that you are aware of these general types, you can think a bit more about
what really looks good on you the next time you buy clothes.
194/COLOR FOR MEN

DRAMATIC TYPE

BUSINESS CASUAL
Suits Sport Coats
Square shoulders Square shoulders
Suppressed waist Single- or double-breasted
Single, double, or no vent May be unconstructed
Two- or three-piece Smooth or very nubby
Peaked or notched lapels Wool, cotton, silk, blends
Worsted wools Solids
Gabardine Heavy tweeds
Silk blends Houndstooth
Solids
Pants
Bold herringbone
Wool, cotton, firm weave
Large box check
Plain or pleated
Windowpane
Plain or cuffed
Bold plaid (design, not color)
Straight or tapered
Pinstripe—V4 or V2 inch
Shirts
Shirts
Broadcloth
Broadcloth
Solids
Solids
Bold plaid
Thin stripe (crisp)
Bold stripes
Wide stripe
Plain or spread collar Sportswear
French cuffs Costumes (outfits that fit activity)
Suspenders
Ties
Bulky knit sweaters
Silk-sheen
Lounging attire
Dark solids
Polo shirts—bright
Large-scale patterns
Stripes, geometric patterns
Stripes—sharp contrast
Overall geometries
Foulard (high contrast)

Accessories
Collar pin
Cuff links
Large watch
Suspenders
 Y O U R CLOTHING P E R S O N A L I T Y / 1 9 5

ROMANTIC TYPE

BUSINESS CASUAL
Suits Sport Coats
Padded shoulders Square or natural shoulders
Suppressed waist May be unconstructed
Double or no vent Single- or double-breasted
Single- or double-breasted Smooth textures
Two-piece Wool, silk, blends, leather
Soft wools, silks, blends Solids
Solids
Pants
Subtle stripes
No-wale corduroy, leather
Woven-in designs
Pleated or plain
Shirts No cuffs
Broadcloth, silk, batiste Tapered
Solids
Shirts
Stripe—subtle, blended
Silk, batiste
Plain or rounded collars
Solids
Ties Unusual collars
Silk—sheen
Sportswear
Medium-color solids
Italian styling
Medium-scale patterns
Short, fitted jackets
Stripes—wide, blended
Velour warm-ups
Foulard—rounded patterns
Soft sweaters
Paisley

Accessories
Collar pin
Stickpin
Rings
Thin chains
Slimline watch
196/COLOR FOR MEN

NATURAL TYPE

BUSINESS CASUAL
Suits Sport coats
Natural shoulders Natural shoulders
Full-cut Single breasted
Slightly suppressed waist (if thin) Nubby textures
Single vent Wool, cotton, linen, blends, cordu-
Single-breasted roy, seersucker
Two-piece Heavy tweed
Flannel, cotton, linen Houndstooth
Tweed Plaid
Herringbone Elbow patches
Large box check Patch pockets
Glen plaid Topstitching
Subtle chalk stripe
Pants
Plaid
Wool, cotton, corduroy, denim
Shirts Plain or pleated
Oxford cloth Plain or cuffed
Stripes—wide, subtle Straight or tapered
Checks
Shirts
Tattersall
Oxford, blends, flannel
Button-down
Stripes—wide
Ties Plaid
Silk—matte Checks
Ribbed knit
Sportswear
Heavy wool
Turtlenecks
Linen
Vests
Medium-color solids
Bulky sweaters
Medium-scale patterns
Boots
Stripes—wide, blended
Athletic outfits
Foulard—square designs
Club
Paisley
Plaid

Accessories
Watch with leather band
 YOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY/197

CLASSIC TYPE

BUSINESS CASUAL
Suits Sport Coats
Slightly padded shoulders Slightly padded to natural shoulder
Slightly suppressed waist or full cut Single- or double-breasted
Single or double vent Smooth textures
Single-breasted Solids
Two- or three-piece Subtle tweed, plaid
Worsted, flannel, cotton, blends Houndstooth
Solids
Pants
Tweed
Wool, cotton, corduroy (stiff)
Herringbone
Plain or cuffed
Small box check
Straight legs
Windowpane
Glen plaid Shirts
Pinstripe—V& to V4 inch Oxford, blends
Chalk stripe Solids
Tattersall
Shirts
Button-down
Oxford or broadcloth
Solids Sportswear
Subtle stripes Polo shirts
Tattersall Plaid pants
Nautical motifs
Button-down or plain collar

Ties
Silk—sheen, matte
Wool—smooth
Linen
Medium to dark solids
Medium-scale patterns
Stripes—thin, even or medium, un-
even
Foulard—rounded, geometric
Club
Accessories
Watch—metal or leather band
Class ring
Collar pin
198/COLOR FOR MEN

GAMIN TYPE

BUSINESS CASUAL
Suits Sport Coats
Slightly padded shoulders Slightly padded shdulder
Slightly suppressed waist Single-breasted
Single vent Wool, cotton, linen, corduroy
Single-breasted Smooth to slightly nubby
Two- or three-piece Solids
Worsted, cotton, blends Subtle tweed
Gabardine Seersucker
Solids Small plaid
Tweed Topstitching
Herringbone Patch pockets
Small box checks
Pants
Glen plaid
Cotton, wool gabardine, corduroy,
Pinstripe—Va inch
denim
Shirts Pleated or plain
Broadcloth Straight leg
Solids
Shi rts
Thin crisp stripes
Broadcloth, oxford, blends
Checks
Solids
Tattersall
Checks
Plain or button-down collar
Tattersall
Ties Plaid
Silk—matte
Sportswear
Ribbed knit
Sweater vest
Wool—smooth
Argyle patterns
Linen
Saddle oxfords
Bow ties
Medium-color solids
Small-scale patterns
Stripes—sharp and/or colorful
Foulard—square, crisp
Club
Plaid

Accessories
Watch—leather band
ID bracelet
CHAPTER

13
SHOPPING

M o s t men dislike shopping for two reasons. They resent the time
involved and they feel unsure of their choices. The Color for Men System will
cut your shopping time to a minimum. And you won't waste any money on a
mistake. If you've been depending on someone else to select your clothes, or have
simply been buying the same items year in and year out, now's the time for you
to discover how to enjoy speedy, successful shopping.
Here are some tips to help make shopping efficient and rewarding.

Shop with your colors and look only at items in your colors.
Always shop with your color chart or fabric swatches. Your eye cannot retain the
memory of a color for more than a few seconds. You may think you've spotted
your red tie, only to find when you get home that it's the wrong red. Hold your
chart or swatch against the garment in question. If it blends, it's yours. If it clashes,
put it back.
Your palette works as a general guide, but be particularly careful when choosing
colors that are difficult for you to wear. Winters should match their taupe (gray-
beige) and lemon yellow closely. Summers should match their light lemon yellow
and rose-beige as closely as possible, too. Autumns must take care with their
marine navy and periwinkle, and Springs should match their grays and navies
closely. Here fabric swatches will be your best guide, as it is difficult to reproduce
colors in print with extreme accuracy.
Store lights often distort colors, so look at the item under natural light if pos-
sible.
2QO/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

When buying a patterned garment—plaid or tweed, for example—make sure

the fabric falls within your palette by comparing its overall background color to
your solid-color swatch. The effect should be the same in both.
It's okay if some of the pattern includes bits of colors that are not yours (see
Neil, p. 27). The rule of thumb is not to let that off color ruin your total look.
Bear in mind the following:

1. Don't allow the wrong color to dominate.

2. Don't allow the wrong color to force you to buy a tie, belt, or shoes in the
wrong color.
3. Don't wear the wrong color near your face.

For example, a thread that is not your color may be woven through the background
of a suit. That's okay as long as you don't buy a tie of that color. (It will often
limit your tie selection.) Or you may find a pair of plaid slacks that contains colors
from more than one season. Fine, as long as you can pull your color out for your
shirt.

Say no to clothes that aren't in your colors.

Learn to say " n o " to items that are not in your colors. Discipline yourself not to
even look at them. Decisions will then be easy, you'll save time, and you guarantee
yourself a coordinated wardrobe with myriad clothing combinations. The minute
you add one off-color item, you complicate your wardrobe plan, and getting
dressed will be that much harder.

Recognize when a bargain is not a bargain.

By saying "yes" only to sale items in your colors, you can be assured that every-
thing you buy will go with whatever you own now or buy next year. Anything
you buy on sale that doesn't look good on you is really a waste of money, not a
saving.

Be aware of the clothing industry's color cycles and be open-minded about

which color you want to buy.
Don't shop with a preconceived idea of a color you want to buy. Instead, be open-
minded about what's available in your colors. The clothing industry does not
promote every color every year. With the exception of basic business colors—
navy, gray, tan—most colors come in cycles several years apart. If you are han-
 SHOPPING/201

kering to try out your emerald green polo shirt but you don't see that particular
shade of green in the stores, forget it for now. You'll just be wasting your time
hunting for it. Choose something in vogue now, as long as it's your color. Next
year emerald green will probably be everywhere!
Your season will usually be your best shopping time of year. In springtime the
light tan suits appear, the suits best for the Spring man. Dark blue-red blazers
appear at Christmastime—good for the Winter man. During your off-season you
may have to search for some of your colors. Stock up during your best shopping
season on shirts and even suits in your colors that you can wear year-round.

Find a salesperson who is your season.

Any salesperson, male or female, automatically likes his or her own colors. Unless
you are in a store where the personnel have been specifically trained to understand
color, the salesperson is likely to sell you his or her colors instead of yours. Even
with your chart or swatches handy, he or she is likely to "see" his or her blue
instead of your blue. A salesperson who is your season will intuitively be of more
help to you.
By the same token, shopping with a wife or friend who is not your season can
produce the same unhappy results. Don't shop with a friend or spouse unless
you're sure he/she understands your colors.

Find your store.

The buyer in a store influences the selection of all the merchandise. If the buyer
is your season, you're in luck. She/he will intuitively select not only lots of your
colors but also styles, fabrics, and patterns that suit you, too.
Furthermore, get to know which labels are cut and styled for you. Some stores
will carry your cut; others won't.

Dress appropriately; be well groomed.

If you are shopping for jeans, it's fine to wear jeans and sneakers to the store. If
you want to buy a suit, wear a suit! Not only do you need the shirt and shoes for
a proper fit but it's also impossible to judge the look of even the finest suit when
you're wearing a pair of old sneakers. Wear a solid tie, and chances are it will go
with the suit. You can assess an outfit more successfully if you look the part.
Comb your hair and shave. You will command the attention of the store personnel
and therefore receive better service. A scruffy customer hardly looks like a good
bet to a top-notch salesman.
2Q2/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

Spend the most money on the clothes you wear the most
If you wear a suit once a year, buy an inexpensive suit. But a suit worn every day
won't hold its shape or wear well unless the fabric and tailoring are both of good
quality. In this case, it's a waste of money to buy an inexpensive suit.

Develop a shopping routine.

First go to your size. If you're not sure of your size, have the salesperson measure
you. Then pull out everything in your colors. Next choose the style and pattern.
Check fabric and quality. Now try on. Last, call the tailor. For extra attention to
your needs, tip the tailor from $5 to $10 each time you buy a suit. This habit
assures you of special attention to your $300 to $500 purchase.
This shopping routine helps you to quickly sort out the possibilities. If nothing
passes the first few steps, go to another store. You've put in little effort, and you
still have the time, energy, and money to go elsewhere.
Once you buy a suit, have the tailor give you a swatch of the material after the
suit is fitted. Keep your swatches on a large safety pin and hang the pin on your
tie rack. When you shop, you can take the swatches along to remind you of the
suits you already have, as well as to help you pick out new shirts and ties.

Make a list
Using the Survival List in Chapter 6, itemize the clothing that you need to com-
plete your wardrobe. If money is an issue, arrange the list in order of priority.
Perhaps you need a topcoat and a suit, but both are expensive. Decide which you
need more and put it at the top of the list. Shopping with a list prevents hit-or-
miss impulse purchases that eat up your budget and keep you from being able to
buy that second item that you really need.
It's also a good idea to tack a piece of paper and a pen to your closet door. When
you notice you need some item of clothing, jot it down. When it's time to shop,
your list is already compiled.

Clean your closet

Go through your closet and remove everything you haven't worn for a year. If you
haven't worn it for a whole year, chances are you never will. Give those clothes
away. Automatically you will be removing clothes that don't fit, that are out of
style, or that you simply don't like.
If your weight fluctuates, remove the wrong-size-for-now clothes and put them
 SHQPPING/203

in a box or storage closet for a later date. Keep in your closet only the clothes
you really wear. An organized closet simplifies getting dressed and leads to an
organized day.
To avoid all that wasted space at the bottom of your closet, have a carpenter
install a second closet pole halfway between the floor and the standard pole. Hang
your shirts and coats on the top pole, your pants on the bottom. Put your robe
on a hook. You also might want to build in cubbies for your shoes or folded shirts
and sweaters.

Shop twice a year.

The clothing industry promotes warm-weather clothes beginning in January and
cool-weather clothes in July, both following midwinter and midsummer sales. If
you wait to buy summer clothes in the summertime, forget it. There's nothing
left. In March or April buy everything you need for the spring and summertime.
In August buy all your fall and winter clothes. During these months the selection
is good, and you can purchase everything on your list in four hours or less, in-
cluding trips to different stores for shoes or whatever. Add a couple of hours for
return trips for fittings and you've got shopping down to ten hours or less per
year.
By buying ahead of need you will never have to give up your Saturday golf or
tennis because you were invited to a party Saturday night.

WHEN SOMEONE SHOPS FOR YOU. . .

If you really hate to shop, you can give your favorite woman or salesperson the
Survival List and your color chart. If you are color-blind, you will have to let
someone help you find your colors.
Many stores and image consultants, including our Color for Men consultants,
offer personal shopping as a professional service. These professionals do the leg-
work for you, so all you have to do is try things on.
Shopping may never be your favorite pastime, but your colors certainly make
it easier and less time-consuming. I know some men who've become shopping
converts now that the frustration has been removed. Also, many men have had
the selection of their clothes controlled by other people since their early childhood
years. You might now enjoy having the freedom to shop for yourself, buying
clothes that you like and knowing that you will look better than ever!
At the back of this book I have included shopping summaries grouped by season.
Tear out your season's guide and keep it as a handy reference.
CHAPTER

14
THE FINISHING
TOUCHES: HAIR,
GLASSES, AND
GROOMING

HAIRSTYLE
AND FACE SHAPE
No program to improve your looks is complete without attention to your hair.
We've all seen the man who is well dressed and yet still doesn't look pulled
together. A shaggy haircut (or an unkempt beard) can ruin the effect. Not only
does a flattering haircut strengthen your best facial features and hide your flaws,
but it also enhances your overall image. And a poor haircut does the opposite.
Finding the best hairstyle is harder for a man than for a woman. While women
have flexibility, men can make only subtle adjustments in their hairstyle. In most
businesses, hair must be relatively short; even so, the variation of a quarter inch
in length can transform your face. The placement of your part, the length of the
hair around your ears, a layered or blunt cut—all make a significant difference
in your look.
 THE FINISHING TOUCHES/205

Your best hairstyle depends on your face shape, the type of hair (curly, straight,
thin, thick), your lifestyle, and the amount of time and care you're willing to
devote to your hair. To decide how to get the cut that is best for you, let's see
what face shape you have and how to work with it. There are seven basic shapes:
oval, diamond, round, square, rectangle, oblong, and triangle. Pull your hair back
from your face, look in the mirror, and examine the outline. Then choose from
the following the category that most closely fits your face. You probably won't
fit into an exact category, but having a sense of your general face shape will help
you decide on a good haircut.

Oval
This is the "perfect" face shape.
Slightly wider at the forehead than at
the cheekbones or chin, it is classi-
cally proportioned.
If you have an oval face you can
wear any hairstyle that suits your per-
sonality and lifestyle. Don't be afraid
to change and experiment with new
looks, for you can carry them off.
2Q6/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

Diamond
A diamond face is wider at the cheek-
bones than at the forehead or chin.
If your face is diamond-shaped,
your hair should fill out your face at
the forehead and chin while being
close to your head (but not plastered
flat) at its widest point.
When your hair covers your fore-
head, your face seems wider. Fullness
just below the back of the ears and in
the back of the head gives weight to
the chin and lower jaw area. Never
pull your hair straight back. Use a
slightly high side part. If your hair is
curly, make sure it does not stick out
at the temples.

Round
A round face is also wider at the
cheekbones but has a curved, chin and
brow. It is almost as wide as it is long.
Your goal is to slim your face and
create a longer look. Your hair can also
help create the illusion of angles. Part
your hair about two inches to either
side of center with bangs on an angle
to cut the roundness of your fore-
head. Keep fullness at the top and
around eye level, but trim hair shorter
at the ears. Wear your sideburns a
touch longer and cut them on an angle
with the front pointing downward. A
closely trimmed beard shaped on an
angle can effectively slim a round
face.
 THE FINISHING TOUCHES/207

Square
A square face is about as wide at the
cheeks as it is long, with an angular
jaw and a square forehead.
If your face is square, your goal is to
make your face seem a little longer and
somewhat less angular. Keep your part
IV2 inches to either side of center,
as a part too far to the side accents
squareness. Hair should be full on top,
adding height. Cover the corners of
your angular forehead with bangs that
wave outward at both temples. Enjoy
your square jaw. It's a masculine trait
that many men envy.

Rectangle
Longer than it is wide, the rectangular
face is square-jawed and has an an-
gular forehead.
If your face is rectangular, you can
shorten it slightly by adding fullness
to the sides and softening the hairline.
Cover your forehead with some off-
center bangs to shorten your face and
camouflage your angular forehead. A
layered cut adds width and helps cre-
ate roundness at the sides of your face.
Blow-dry your hair to add fullness.
Avoid long hair in the back.
2Q8/COLOR FOR MEN

Oblong
The oblong face has the same propor-
tions as the rectangular face, but the
chin and brow are curved and
rounded, not angular.
If you have an oblong face, you want
to create the illusion of a shorter, fuller
shape. Add fullness at the temples and
sides, and keep it longer around the
ears. A longish layered cut provides
fullness especially if you blow-dry
your hair. Keep it short at the back so
the hairline doesn't drag the eye
downwards.

Triangle
A wide brow, slightly narrower cheek-
bones, and a narrow chin are charac-
teristic of the triangular face.
If your face is triangular, you need
to narrow your brow area and widen
your chin. Part your hair about three
inches to either side of center with
bangs covering one side of the fore-
head. Keep it close-cropped at the top
and temples, with extra length and
fullness in the back, perhaps showing
beneath the ears. A beard can be the
perfect solution for filling in a narrow
chin.
 THE FINISHING TOUCHES/209

GOING, GOING, GONE: BALD CAN BE BEAUTIFUL, TOO

If you have thinning hair or are bald, don't despair. Yul Brynner and Telly Savalas
have made baldness a symbol of virility, and Burt Reynolds and others have shown
us that a hairpiece or transplant can be convincingly real. There are many options,
and it is as important for you to know how to cut and take care of your hair as
it is for the bushy-haired college kid.
Keeping your hair short is the trick. Identify your facial shape and emphasize
its assets. A good cut and the use of a blow dryer to create fullness are essential.
Remember:

• Keep thinning hair fairly short and always neatly trimmed. Long strands
look sparse and accentuate baldness. Short, layered hair looks fuller than
long hair.
• Never part your hair over one ear and comb long strands over your bald spot.
It only calls attention to your baldness and looks terrible when the wind
blows. Really, bald is attractive if you will work with it instead of trying to
cover it up.
• If you have only a receding hairline, you can comb your hair forward. This
does not look artificial, since some people wear their hair back to front
anyway.
• If you have just a few hairs on the top of your otherwise bald head, shave
them off. It looks neater, smoother, and sexier, and calls less attention to the
top of your head.
• Consider growing a mustache or a beard if your professional life permits.
Facial hair can often balance baldness.

HOW TO BLOW-DRY YOUR HAIR

If your hair is thinning or straight you can increase its fullness with a blow-
drier. First lift hair with a round brush and blow hot air against the direction of
hair growth. After you have held the dryer near the roots for a few seconds, wrap
your hair around the brush in the direction you want it to fall and blow it almost
dry on the brush.
If your hair is full, you need control, not more fullness. Use a warm (not hot)
setting, and blow-dry in the same direction the hair grows. Simply blow as you
brush. You need a regular, not a round, brush.
21Q/C0L0R FOR MEN

To control curliness, blow hair partially dry all over. Once hair is almost dry,
use a brush to pull your hair flat and straight as you continue drying.

blow against the direction of the hair at the root, since it already sticks up.
For freestyle, rotate the dryer around your head, first blowing air against hair,
then blowing with your hair's natural fall. Shake your head every couple of min-
utes to give your hair bounce.
 THE FINISHING TOUCHES/211

HAIR COLOR
Some men do color their hair. The most common reason for coloring is to cover
gray. The secret to success is having the results look natural. Depending on your
season and situation, you may want to stay gray or cover your gray partly or
completely.
Winters and Summers, the cool seasons, may prefer to stay gray, since gray
often arrives attractively on the Winter or Summer man. Winters often gray early
and beautifully. Unless you feel negative about gray hair, leave it alone. It's bright
and beautiful.
Autumns and Springs, on the other hand, may prefer to cover their gray until
it has completely arrived. During the two-tone stage, their gray tones may diminish
their overall warm look. Once the gray is completely in, however, it has a yel-
lowish cast and looks harmonious.
When selecting hair products or having your hair professionally colored, stick
as closely as possible to your own hair color. Because of the peroxide they contain,
many products bring out the red in your hair. Autumns and Springs don't need
to worry about this, since red or golden tones look great on them, but Winters
and Summers should avoid warm tones.

Color Guidelines
Here are guidelines for selecting the right color:

• Winters and Summers need tones with a cool base. Browns are good if they
do not have the word "warm" in the name. Ash tones are for you.
• Autumns and Springs need tones with a warm base. Autumns can use warm
brown, red, and auburn tones. Springs use golden brown, golden blond, or
warm brown.

Application Tricks
Julius, Nancy Reagan's hairdresser, offers these tips for covering gray:

• Choose a light, natural shade that matches the lighter strands of your hair.
• When using comb-through products, don't apply the color all over. Dip the
comb in the color, then comb it through for a natural look.
212/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

In

||
* * %

i j ^ g s fm |#
" « i W
\ •^mm^ J ^ <- f

A fairly thick, wide moustache broadens a thin A closely cropped beard, shaped at an angle, makes a
face. round or wide face look slimmer.

r
v# i 'HSfs
1 Pf
•t
• 1 ^ m
i

\ j M <g|>i Jr

\ f
7

A droopy moustache emphasizes jowls. A neatly trimmed moustache is more flattering.

FACIAL HAIR
Beards or mustaches can create the illusion of a better face shape. Thin faces fill
out, round or broad faces appear more chiseled. The line of the beard or mustache
creates the illusion, so it's important to know what will work for you. Make sure
any facial hair is well-trimmed and not exaggerated. Remember, facial hair in-
 THE FINISHING TOUCHES/213

fluences your image. A shaggy, less stylized look is Natural. A Dramatic person-
ality will want a more stylized look. A Classic type rarely wears facial hair, but
if he does it must be neat and trim. Facial hair, especially beards, is usually not
an acceptable corporate look.
If your beard color is distinctly different from your hair color, you may want
to skip the beard. It gives you "two" seasons, and it's hard to look harmonious
with your clothes when there are two different colors on your face.

GLASSES
The three factors to consider when selecting glasses are color, shape, and size.
Select your glasses after you have your hair styled, as you want the frames to
complement the new shape of your face. Also, if you plan to color your hair for
any reason, do it before you buy glasses. The choice of frame color is affected by
your hair color.

Choosing the Right Color Frames

The correct color of frames for you is based on your season and hair color. When
buying plastic frames, choose the same color as your hair, but one shade lighter.
If you are pale or sallow-skinned, do choose plastic frames, which bring color to
your face. Autumns in particular should consider this option.
Winters and Summers, the cool seasons, should make sure that their frames—
particularly brown ones—are not reddish or golden. Even tortoise-shell must be
a cool brown. If you choose metal frames, they should be silver-toned.
Autumns and Springs, the warm seasons, should choose plastic frames with a
warm red or golden tone. Metal frames should be gold-toned.

Color Tints for Lenses

The best color choices for tinted sunglasses, eye doctors say, are dark gray, green,
and brown. Choose the correct tint for your season—gray for the cool seasons,
brown or green for the warm seasons. Avoid colors such as blue (which makes
it difficult to distinguish the color of traffic signals); lavender, orange, and rose
(which don't screen out enough light to protect your eyes); and yellow (which
actually intensifies the light).
For regular tinted glasses, choose no more than a 10 percent tint. It is fashionable
now, and attractive, to tint the top of the lenses in a neutral 30 percent tint (say
gray or brown, depending on your season), leave the center plain, and tint the
214/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

bottom in a 10 to 20 percent tint. The effect is very subtle and very flattering, but
leaves your eyes free to see naturally out of the center of your glasses.

Choosing the Right Shape

Glasses should complement the shape of your face. Choose frames that follow the
shape of the top of your brow. The heaviness of the frames should be scaled to
your bone structure.
You can adjust the width of the glasses frame for best effect. For most faces,
keep the frames the same width as your temple. Choose them a little narrower to
compensate for a wide face, or a little wider for a narrow face. Too narrow and
they'll look dinky. Too wide and you'll look cartoonish!
Earlier in this chapter you identified your basic face shape. Here are some tips
for selecting frames to suit your face shape.

OVAL DIAMOND

An oval face can wear any frame that The diamond face wants to create the
is not extreme. Anything too large, too illusion of a wider chin line and fore-
small, or too angular will look unbal- head. You need frames with width on
anced. Choose a style that suits your top, straightish sides, and bottoms that
bone structure, clothing personality, point downward and outward. Avia-
and season. tor glasses are excellent.
 THE FINISHING T O U C H E S / 2 1 5

ROUND
A round face needs to create the
illusion of cheekbones with frames
that are straight across the top, angle
inward toward the bottom, and
square off across the bottom. Avoid
round glasses or curved sides, which
will emphasize roundness. Severely
square glasses are also wrong because
the contrast in shapes is too extreme.

SQUARE
Slightly rounded or curved frames
with height on top can modify a too-
square face. Since you want to
lengthen the look of your face, aviator
frames are handsome if your cheek-
bones are pronounced and gravity has
not yet begun to make you jowly.
216/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

RECTANGLE
A rectangular face, being long and
square, needs added width. A wide,
square frame with slightly rounded
corners or an overall rounded style is
generally best.

OBLONG
The oblong face is long but not square.
It needs both width and angles.
Choose slightly wide frames with
rounded sides and straight bottoms to
add shape. Choose largish glasses with
heavier sides.
 THE FINISHING TOUCHES/217

TRIANGLE
Since the triangular face has a broad
forehead and narrow chin, you want
glasses that create balance. The top
piece of the frames should not be
heavy, and the sides should not be
wider than your temples. Consider
glasses with a curved, dropped bottom
piece, such as an aviator frame. Square
shapes are out, as is a heavy bridge.

ACCENTUATE THE POSITIVE: Once you have determined the general frame
shape that is best for you, you can refine it even further to accentuate your best
features and disguise your flaws.

• If you have a long nose, choose glasses with a low bridge. A dark-colored
bridge is even more shortening.
• If you have a short nose, a high, keyhole bridge in a light color lengthens
the appearance of your nose.
• If your eyes are small or too close together, make them appear wider with
a wide bridge. A clear bridge with colored end pieces makes the illusion
even stronger.
• If your nose is wide or your eyes are wide set, choose a medium-weight dark-
colored bridge.
218/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

QROOMING
Please don't forget the details that ensure your attractiveness as a total person.
Good grooming is key to a successful image. Here's a grooming checklist:

1. Hair clean and neat.

2. Teeth brushed; good breath.
3. Deodorant—make sure it's still working.
4. Face shaved. (Watch for five o'clock shadow. Keep a razor at work.)
5. Fingernails clean and filed; cuticles trimmed. (It's easy to get a manicure
each time you get a haircut.)
6. Clothes clean, neatly pressed. (Check for hanging threads, loose buttons,
sagging lining, and split seams.)
7. Shirt cuffs and collars without frays.
8. Shoes polished, heels not worn.

Color for Men is a total concept.

You now have the tools to buy the best colors and clothing styles for you as
well as a more organized approach to getting dressed.
Mix that with a great haircut, a neat and clean appearance, and you've got it
all. Ready, set, go, put your best look forward!
EPILOGUE

THE
TOTAL
MAN

Throughout this book we have stressed the outer you—your ap-

pearance, your image, your looks. But the true results of applying your colors are
inner. The harmony and self-confidence that come with being comfortable with
your appearance make you feel good. And self-esteem is what life is all about,
for your own special qualities are what really make you valuable in your business
life and inspire affection in your personal life. Knowing that you look your best
gives you the freedom and the confidence to continue to develop your full po-
tential.
So here's to the Total Man! Enjoy your colors!
 COLOR FOR MEN/221

SHOPPING GUIDE FOR A WINTER MAN

Neutrals Lights Basic Colors Brights/Accents

Navy Pure White True Blue Royal Blue True Red

Black Icy Gray Pine Green Hot Turquoise Shocking Pink
Taupe (Gray- Icy Blue Bright Burgundy Chinese Blue Deep Hot Pink
Beige) Icy Yellow Blue-Red Lemon Yellow Magenta
Charcoal Gray Icy Pink Light True Green Fuchsia
Medium True Icy Green True Green Royal Purple
Gray Icy Violet Emerald Green
Light True Gray Icy Aqua

Suits, Pants
Sport Coats
Select suits and pants from your Neutral
Select sport coats from the Basic Color or
group. Neutrals form the foundation of
Neutral groups. Basic Colors are the ones
your wardrobe because they go with every-
that are versatile, go with many of your
thing.
other colors, and add interest to your ward-
Patterns: Winters are best in solids 01 pin- robe.
stripes that offer sharp contrasts.

Ties
Ties can bring life to your overall appear-
Business/Dress Shirts ance. Select colors from any group that re-
Choose business and dress shirts from the late to your shirt and coat—Neutrals or
Lights category. Wear them as solids or Basic Colors for a more conservative look.
with stripes or checks from any of your Winters are best in solids or contrasting
color groups (example: White shirt with stripes, but can also wear polka dots or fou-
Bright Burgundy stripe). Shirt colors are lards that contain some sharpness.
important, since they are worn next to the
face.
Shoes and Belts
Black, Navy, Cordovan, and Gray are the
appropriate colors here. For warm weather,
Casual Clothes add Taupe or White.
Casual clothes and sportswear may be
worn in Brights/Accents as solids or in
stripes or other prints, according to your Overcoat
personality. Here's your chance to add a Choose Black, Navy, Gray, or Taupe (Grav-
new dimension to your casual wiardrobe. Beige), whichever is your best.
222/COLOR FOR MEN

SHOPPING GUIDE FORANAUTUMNMAN

Name

Address

SHOPPING REMINDER
(List Sizes)

Shirt: Neck Sleeve

Sport shirt: S M L XL

Suit/Jacket

Waist:

Pant length:

Sock:

Shoe: !

Glove:

Overcoat:

Other:

Enjoy your colors!

 COLOR FOR MEN/223

SHOPPING GUIDE FORANAUTUMNMAN

Neutrals Lights Basic Colors Brights/Accents

Grayed Navy Soft White Cadet Blue Light Lemon Pastel Pink
Charcoal Blue- Light Rose-Beige Burgundy Yellow Rose-Pink
Gray Powder Blue Blue-Red Sky Blue Deep Rose
Light Blue-Gray Light Periwinkle Spruce Green Medium Blue Orchid
Grayed Blue Blue Periwinkle Blue Mauve
Rose-Brown Pale Lemon Pastel Aqua Raspberry
Cocoa Yellow Pastel Blue-Green Soft Fuchsia
Rose-Beige Powder Pink Medium Blue- Plum
Light Mauve Green
Lavender Deep Blue-Green
Watermelon Red

Suits, Pants Sport Coats

Select suits and pants from your Neutral Select sport coats from the Basic Color or
group. Neutrals form the foundation of Neutral groups. Basic Colors are the ones
your wardrobe because they go with every- that are versatile, go with many of your
thing. other colors, and add interest to your ward-
Patterns: Summers are best in solids or sub- robe.
tle patterns that offer minimal contrast.

Ties
Ties can bring life to your overall appear-
Business/Dress Shirts ance. Select colors from any group that re-
Choose business and dress shirts from the late to your shirt and coat—Neutrals or
Lights category. Wear them as solids, or Basic Colors for a more conservative look.
with stripes or checks from any of your Summers are best in subtle patterns—fou-
color groups (example: Soft White shirt lards, small dots, blended stripes.
with Blue stripe). Shirt colors are impor-
tant, since they are worn next to the face.
Shoes and Belts
Rose-Brown, Black, Navy, Cordovan, and
Gray are the appropriate colors here. For
Casual Clothes warm weather, add Rose-Beige or Soft
Casual clothes and sportswear may be White.
worn in Brights/Accents as solids or in
stripes or other prints, according to your Overcoat
personality. Here's your chance to add a Choose Navy, Grayed Blue, Rose-Brown, or
new dimension to your casual wardrobe. Cocoa, whichever is your best.
224/COLOR FOR MEN

SHOPPING GUIDE FORANAUTUMNMAN

Name : :

Address

SHOPPING REMINDER
(List Sizes)

Shirt: Neck Sleeve

Sport shirt: S M L XL

Suit/Jacket

Waist:

Pant length:

Sock:

Shoe: 1

Glove:

Overcoat: !

Other:

Enjoy your colors!

 COLOR FOR MEN/225

SHOPPING GUIDE FOR AN AUTUMN MAN

Neutrals Lights Basic Colors Brights/Accents

Charcoal Brown Oyster White Forest Green Yellow-Gold Bittersweet Red

Dark Chocolate Warm Beige Medium Warm Mustard Dark Tomato Red
Brown Buff (Light Gold) Bronze Pumpkin Jade Green
Coffee Brown Light Peach/ Rust Terra-Cotta Lime Green
Khaki/Tan Apricot Mahogany Deep Peach/ Moss Green
Camel Light Periwinkle Gold Apricot Bright Yellow-
Marine Navy Blue Teal Blue Salmon Green
Olive Green Light Grayed Orange Turquoise
Grayed Green Green Orange-Red Deep Periwinkle
Blue

Suits, Pants Sport Coats

Select suits and pants from your Neutral Select sport coats from the Basic Color or
group. Neutrals form the foundation of Neutral groups. Basic Colors are the ones
your wardrobe because they go with every- that are versatile, go with many of your
thing. other colors, and add interest to your ward-
robe.
Patterns: Autumns are often best in tweeds,
plaids, and rich, nubby fabrics.

Ties
Ties can bring life to your overall appear-
ance. Select colors from any group that re-
Business/Dress Shirts
late to your shirt and coat—Neutrals or
Choose business and dress shirts from the
Basic colors for a more conservative look.
Lights category. Wear them as solids or
Autumns are best with rich colors worn in
with stripes or checks from any of your
paisleys, plaids, irregular stripes, or fou-
color groups (example: Oyster White shirt
lards.
with Rust stripe). Shirt colors are impor-
tant, since they are worn next to the face.

Shoes and Belts

Brown, Cordovan, Black (with navy), and
Tan are the appropriate colors here. For
Casual Clothes warm weather, add Beige or Oyster.
Casual clothes and sportswear may be
worn in Brights/Accents as solids or in
stripes or other prints, according to your Overcoat
personality. Here's your chance to add a Choose Charcoal Brown, Coffee, Khaki/
new dimension to your casual wardrobe. Tan, Camel, or Marine Navy, whichever is
your best
226/COLOR FOR MEN

SHOPPING GUIDE FOR AN AUTUMN MAN

Name

Address

SHOPPING REMINDER
(List Sizes)

Shirt: Neck Sleeve

Sport shirt: S M L XL

Suit/Jacket

Waist:

Pant length:

Sock:

Shoe: !

Glove:

Overcoat:

Other:

Enjoy your colors!

 COLOR FOR MEN/227

SHOPPING GUIDE FOR A SPRING MAN

Neutrals Lights Basic Colors Brights/Accents

Clear Bright Navy Ivory Light Clear Navy Pastel Yellow- Medium Violet
Medium Warm Buff Light Clear Gold Green Bright Golden
Gray Light Peach/ Light Rust Bright Yellow- Yellow
Light Warm Gray Apricot Light Teal Blue Green Peach/Apricot
Chocolate Brown Warm Pastel Pink Light Warm Aqua Clear Salmon
Medium Golden Light Clear Blue Clear Bright Aqua Clear Bright Warm
Brown Light Periwinkle Emerald Pink
Golden Tan Blue Turquoise Coral Pink
Camel Light True Blue Bright Coral
Light Warm Beige Periwinkle Blue Light Orange
Dark Periwinkle Orange-Red
Blue Clear Bright Red

Suits, Pants Sport Coats

Select suits and pants from your Neutral Select sport coats from the Basic Color or
group. Neutrals form the foundation of Neutral groups. Basic Colors are the ones
your wardrobe because they go with every- that are versatile, go with many of your
thing. other colors, and add interest to your ward-
robe.
Patterns: Springs are often best in glen
plaids or solids with a slight texture.

Ties
Ties can bring life to your overall appear-
Business/Dress Shirts ance. Select colors from any group that re-
Choose business and dress shirts from the late to your shirt and coat—Neutrals or
Lights category. Wear them as solids or Basic Colors for a more conservative look.
with stripes or checks from any of your Springs are best in solids or subtle prints:
color groups (example: Ivory shirt with plaids, stripes, foulards.
Blue stripe). Shirt colors are important,
since they are worn next to the face.

Shoes and Belts

Brown, Tan, Cordovan, and Black (with
navy) are the appropriate colors here. For
Casual Clothes warm weather, add Beige and Ivory.
Casual clothes and sportswear may be
worn in Brights/Accents as solids or in
stripes or other prints, according to your Overcoat
personality. Here's your chance to add a Choose Camel, Medium Warm Gray,
new dimension to your casual wardrobe. Golden Tan, or Light Clear Navy, which-
ever is your best.
228/COLOR FOR MEN

SHOPPING GUIDE FORANAUTUMNMAN

Name !

Address

SHOPPING REMINDER
(List Sizes)

Shirt: Neck Sleeve

Sport shirt: S M L XL

Suit/Jacket

Waist:

Pant length:

Sock:

Shoe: !

Glove:

Overcoat:

Other:

Enjoy your colors!

 COLOR FOR MEN/229

Fabric Glossary

Here are some examples of common menswear fabric patterns.

23Q/COLOR FOR MEN HHRHI

Fabric Glossary
 INDEX/231

INDEX

Accent colors, 41 Bright/accent colors, 41

See also Bright/accent colors. Autumn, 33
Autumn, 12,15,22 Spring, 37
analyzing coloring of, 40 Summer, 29
business colors, 71 Winter, 25
coloring of, 51-53 sportswear; 61
color intensity, 22,40 Business clothes:
colors of Autumn palette, 68-71 Autumn colors, 32,71
gray hair and, 211 Spring colors, 36,82-83
individualizing colors, 29, 70 Summer colors, 28,67-68
seasonal chart for, 32-33 Winter colors, 24,64
shirts, 41 general rules for, 60
shopping guide for, 32,225-26 Button-down collar, 136
sportswear colors, 72
Survival wardrobe colors, 101 Casual clothes, 41
tie colors/patterns, 154,156 See also Sportswear.
Casual type man, wardrobe for, 104
Baldness, 209 Classic clothing personality type,
Basic colors, 41 186-90,197
Autumn, 32-33 Clothing personality, 174-98
Spring, 36-37 See also Clothing Types.
Summer, 28-29 Clothing styles, mixing of, 172
Winter, 24-25 Clothing types:
Beards, 212-13 Classic, 186-90,197
Black, 22 Dramatic, 175-79,194
Blow-drying hair, 209-10 Gamin, 190-93,198
Body proportions, 105-19 Natural, 183-86,196
body checklist, 106 Romantic, 174-83,195
determination of, 105-11 Club tie, 152
height/weight tips, 111-17 Collars, of shirts, 136-41
leg-torso proportion tips, 115 fit, 144-48
neck size tips, 117 size and shape, 138
seat size tips, 119 styles, 136-41
shirt fit, 144-48 Color for Men system, 41-42
shoulder/hip proportion tips, 114 benefits of, 42
shoulder slope tips, 115 building a wardrobe and, 42
suit fit, 121-32 Color history, 43-43
upper back shape tips, 119 Coloring:
waist/body proportion tips, 117 analyzing of, 40
Bow ties, 162 Autumn, 51-53
 232/INDEX

evaluating coloring, 46-47 of suits, 133

individualizing color for, 58-59 ties, 156
Spring, 53-55 weight/texture/finish, 171
Summer, 49-51 Face shape:
Winter, 47-49 collar styles and, 138-41
Coloring hair, 211 eyeglasses and, 214-17
Colors: hairstyle and, 204-9
basic colors, 41 Facial hair, 212-13
bright/accent colors, 41 Finish, of fabric, 171
finding your season, 43-57 Fit, of shirts, 144-48
intensity in seasonal pallettes, 22,40 collar, 145-46
intuitive color sense, 15 cuffs/sleeves, 141-42,146-47
lights, 40 shoulders, 147
neutrals, 40 torso, 148
right colors, 14,56 Fit, of suits, 120-32
shades in seasonal palettes, 22,40 jacket, 125-28
wrong colors, 14,56 pants, 129-32
Contrast, suit/shirt/tie combinations, vest, 129
171 Foulard (Ivy League), ties, 152
Corporate man, wardrobe for, 103 Four-in-hand knot, 159
Cuffs, of shirts, 141-42,146-47 Full spread collar, 137
Cut, of suits, 121-24
Gamin clothing personality type,
Dots, ties, 153
190-93,198
Dramatic clothing personality type,
Geometric ties, 152
175-76,194
Gray hair, coloring of, 211
Dress clothes:
Grooming, checklist for, 218
Autumn, 32
Spring, 36
Summer, 28 Hairstyle:
Winter, 24 baldness, 209
blow-drying, 209-10
European suits, 124 coloring hair, 211
manufacturers of, 134 face shape and, 204-9
Eyeglasses, 213-17 Half Windsor knot, 160
accentuating features, 217
color of frames, 213 Intensity, in seasonal palettes, 22
color tinting of lenses, 213-14 Ivy League suit, 122
face shape and, 214-17 manufacturers of, 134
Ivy League tie, 152
Fabric:
suit/shirt/tie combinations, 170-72 Jackets, 40
of shirts, 142 proper fit, 125-28
 INDEX/233

Knots, of ties, 158-62 Round collar, 138

Ruddiness, 47
Length, of ties, 158
Lifestyle, wardrobe and, 103^ Sallowness, 46
Light colors, 40 Seasonal charts, 23^1
Autumn, 32 basic colors, 41
Spring, 36 bright/accent colors, 41
Summer, 28 flexibility of, 23
Winter, 24 lights, 40
neutrals, 40
Manufacturers: Seasonal palette, 21-41
of shirts, 148 analyzing your coloring, 40
of suits, 134 Autumn colors, 68-71
Mood, individualizing color foi; 59 color comparison chart, 84-86
Mustaches, 212-13 comparing the colors, 22
decision making about, 45-46
Natural clothing personality type, finding your season, 43-57
183-86,196 right color, 56
Neck proportions, collar styles and, 138 seasonal charts, 23-41
Neutral colors, 40 Spring colors, 72, 81-82
Autumn, 32 Summer colors, 65-67
Spring, 36 testing colors, 55-57
Summer, 28 Winter colors, 61-63
Winter, 2A wrong color, 56
Seasonal types, See Autumn; Spring;
Outerwear, casual, 41 Summer; Winter
Overcoats, 40 Self-image, individualizing color for,
59-60
Paisley, ties, 153 Shades, in seasonal palettes, 22
Pants, 40 Shirts, 40,135-48
proper fit, 129-32 collars of, 136-41
Patterns, suit/shirt/tie combinations, color and, 135-36
164-71 combined with suits/ties, 163-73
Personality, individualizing color foi; cuffs of, 141-42,146-47
59-60 fabric, 142
Pin collar, 137 fit, 144-48
Plaids, ties, 152 manufacturers of, 148
Professional man, wardrobe for, 103 patterns, 143-44
Shopping guides, 221-27
Quality, of suits, 132-33 Shopping tips, 199-203
Size:
Romantic clothing personality type, of collars, 138
179-83 of suits, 120-21
234/INDEX

Skintone, evaluation of, 46-47 coloring of, 49-51

Slacks, 40 color intensity, 22
Sleeves, of shirts, 146-47 colors of Summer palette, 65-67
Solids: gray hair and, 211
suit/shirt/tie combinations, 164-71 individualizing colors, 67
ties, 150 seasonal chart for, 28-29
Sport coats, 41 shirts, 40
Sportswear, 41 shopping guide for, 28,223-24
Autumn colors, 33,72 sportswear colors, 68
individualizing color for, 61 Survival wardrobe colors, 100
Spring colors, 37,83 tie colors/patterns, 154,155
Summer colors, 29,68 Survival wardrobe, 91-102
Winter colors, 25,64 Autumn colors, 101
Spring, 12,15,16,22 descriptions of clothing items, 91-97
analyzing your coloring, 40 lifestyles and, 103-4
business colors, 82-83 Spring colors, 102
coloring of, 53-55 starting of, 90
color intensity, 22 Summer colors, 100
colors of Spring palette, 72,81-82 Winter colors, 99
gray hair and, 211 Sweaters, 40
individualizing colors, 82
seasonal chart for, 36-37 Texture, of fabric, 171
shirts, 40 Ties, 41,149-62
shopping guide for, 36,227-28 Autumn colors/patterns, 154,156
sportswear colors, 83 bow ties, 162
Survival wardrobe colors, 102 combined with shirts/suits, 163-73
tie colors/patterns, 154,156 fabric of, 156-57
Standard collar, 137 knots, 158-62
Striped, ties, 152 length of, 158
Suits, 40,120-34 patterns of, 150-53
combined with shirts/ties, 163-73 Spring colors/patterns, 154,156
cut, 121-24 Summer colors/patterns, 154,155
determining size, 120-21 width of, 157
European suit, 124 Winter colors/patterns, 153-54,155
fabric, 133
fit, 120-32
Uniforms, wardrobe for wearer of, 104
Ivy League suit, 122
Updated American suit, 123
manufacturers of, 134
manufacturers of, 134
quality of construction, 132-33
Updated American suit, 123
Summer, 12,15,21,22 Vests, proper fit, 129
analyzing your coloring, 40
business colors, 67-68 Wardrobe, 89-104
 INDEX/235

casual man, 104 business colors, 64

corporate man, 103 coloring of, 47-49
man in uniform, 104 color intensity, 22
professional man, 103 colors of Winter palette, 61-63
survival wardrobe, 91-102 gray hair and, 211
See also Survival wardrobe. individualizing colors, 63-64
Weight, of fabric, 171 seasonal chart for, 24-25
White, 22 shirts, 40
Width, of ties, 157 shopping guide for, 24,221-22
Windsor knot, 161 sportswear colors, 64
Winter, 12,15,21,22 Survival wardrobe colors, 99
analyzing your coloring, 40 tie colors/patterns, 153-54,155
CREDITS
Thanks to the following models for their participation: Terry Applebee (Panache) pp. 18,19,30; Joe Banks
(Panache) p. 27; Steve Black, p. 30; Neil Bonin (Panache) p. 27; John Bracken (Zoli) p. 39; Arthur Brooks (Funny
Face) pp. 19,20,35; William Fitzgerald, p. 31; Joe Flemming (Central Casting) p. 38; Jay Gould (Wilhelmina) p. 34;
Addison Greene (Funny Face) p. 34; John Healy (Central Casting) p. 31; Tim Horan (International Legends) p. 38;
Bob Jundelin (Funny Face) pp. 17,20,39; Mel Jurden (Funny Face) p. 31; Tim Kelley, p. 27; Calvin Kirby (Central
Casting) p. 39; Lowell McGlothian (Ford Models) p. 38; J.R. Moyers, p. 35; Billy O'Briant (Panache) p. 31; Steve
Puchaski (Wilhelmina) p. 30; Gordon Ramsey (Funny Face) p. 30; Stephen Reeder, p. 34; John Rusnak (Panache)
p. 34; Dale Schusterman, p. 27; Ben Short (Funny Face) p. 26; Jacques Silberstein, pp. 17,18; Dan S. Smith
(Panache) p. 26; John Smith, p. 39; Richard Smith (Ford Models) p. 35; Toshio Soto (Funny Face) p. 26; Rick
Spates (Funny Face) p. 38; Dale Stephenson (Panache) p. 35; Dean Vernon (Funny Face) p. 26

Photos by Jacques Silberstein (except J.R. Moyers, photo by David Neely). Grooming by Anne Schwab's Model
Store (Washington, D.C.) and Bill Westmoreland (N.Y.C.)

Thanks to the following designers and stores for providing the clothing for the photographs in this book:
Etienne Aigner; Bacarrat for Van Heusen Designer Group; Peter Barton's Closet; Geoffrey Beene; Britches of
Georgetown; D. Cenci, New York; Country Britches; Cricketeer; Eagle Shirt Makers; Alan Flusser; Henry
Grethel; Hathaway; Hennessy for Van Heusen Designer Group; Alexander Julian; Calvin Klein; Lacoste; Ted
Lapidus; Ralph Lauren; Mano-A-Mano, New York; Saks Fifth Avenue, Chevy Chase; Van Heusen Designer
Group
 The foremost authority
on color and image enhancement, Carole Jackson is founder
and Chairman of the Board of Color Me Beautiful, Inc.,
an internationally acclaimed, multimillion-dollar corporation
whose success has earned her the title "First Lady of Colors
The author of C O L O R M E B E A U T I F U L , which has sold over
2% million copies and has been on the Nexv York Times bestseller list
for over three years, Carole Jackson continues to be
a leader of the color industry by breaking new ground
and introducing creative ideas and services through her
international network of trained Color Me Beautiful consultants.
The recently founded Color for Men division (
has already helped thousands of men look their best
through the principles of color.

345-31946-X