Max the
Laborador
1
Material
• Chenille yarn 120 m/100g. You need 1,5 skeins.
• Cotton yarn 80m/50 g, worsted weight. A small amount of white is
needed for the eyes, black is needed for the paws and nose and pink for
the tongue.
• Stuffing
• Hook size 4 mm and 2,5 mm
• Safety eyes 16 mm
• Yarn needle
Abbreviations
Sc- single crochet
Inc- increase one stitch
Dec- decrease one stitch
Ch- chain
St- stitch
Sl- slip stitch
3inc- 3 sc into the same st
FO- fasten off
Information
Skill level: Intermediate. Some experience with amigurumi is recommended.
I crocheted with the right side out (clockwise) and the parts are crocheted in
a spiral, inless the pattern states otherwise. The rounds are not joined with a
slip stitch, unless the pattern states otherwise. Place a piece of yarn or a
stitchmarker in the last stitch of every round so you know when the round is
finished.
If you use a different yarn than that one I have used, remember to always
choose a smaller hook size than what is recommended on the yarn label.
How to close openings
Sew in the front loops around the opening and pull on the yarn. This will close the
opening. Secure the yarn and hide the end inside.
You can see a photo tutorial on my website
Photo tutorials - IdunCreations
2
Head
Round 1: Ch 5, sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, 2 sc, 3inc, 3sc, 3 inc into the
turning chain (12) See picture 1 a-f
1 Sc into the 2nd Add 2 more sc
ch from the hook here
a b c
3 sc in the 4th ch Sc into the other 3 sc in the turning
from the hook side of the starter ch ch
d e f
Round 2: 3 sc, 3 x inc, 3 sc, 3 x inc (18)
Round 3-4 (2 rounds): 18 sc (18)
Round 5: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Round 6-7 (2 rounds): 24 sc (24)
3
Round 8: 10 x inc, 12 sc, 2 x inc (36)
Round 9-12 (4 rounds): 36 sc (36)
2
Place the head with the increases from Increases
round 8 up and round 1 in a horisontal
position. Attach the eyes as shown in
pictures 2-4
I have placed them between round 8 and 9
and I have 12 st between the eyes. Round 1
3 4
Round 13-14 (2 rounds): 36 sc (36)
Start filling the head with stuffing.
Round 15: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
Round 16: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Round 17: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Add more stuffing.
Round 18: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Round 19: dec x 6 (6)
Fasten off but leave enough yarn to close the opening later. It will be left
open for now.
4
Cut a piece of the chenille yarn, thread it to the needle and insert it through
the opening at the back of the head. Make a stitch over a st on round 8, just
beneath the eye. See picture 5. Go out again through the opening, tie the ends
once and pull the ends to create indents by the eyes. Tie again and hide the
ends inside the head.
Repeat on the other eye.
This creates indents for the eyes. See picture 6
5
6
Cut another piece of the yarn and thread it on the needle. Insert it through
the opening at the back of the head and exit between round 2 and 3, on the
underside of the muzzle section. Make a stitch over round 2. See pictures
Go out again through the opening, pull the ends and tie them together. This
pulls up the underside of the muzzle. See pictures 7-9
5
Hide the ends inside the head.
7 8 9
Cut a piece of the black worsted
weight yarn, thread it to the needle
and insert it through the opening at 10
the back of the head. Exit through
the centre of round 1 and make a
V-shape over round 1 and 2.
Continue making stitches so that
the V-shape is completely filled in.
Then make a stitch going straight
down, from the centre of round 1
and down over 3 rounds. See picture
10
Exit through the opening again
and tie the ends together. Hide the
ends inside the head.
6
Cut a piece of the white worsted weight
yarn, thread it to the needle and insert it
through the opening at the back of the
11
head. Make a long stitch on the outside of
each eye and exit again through the opening
at the back. See picture 11
Tie the ends together and hide the ends
inside the head.
Close the opening at the back of the head by sewing around the opening as
explained at the start of the pattern. Secure the yarn and hide the end inside
the head.
Ears x 2
The ears are made in rows. Make a ch at the end of each row. The turning ch
does not count as a stitch.
Start the chain approximately 20 cm into the yarn. The end will be used to
sew the ears to the head later.
Chain 7.
Row 1: sc into the 2nd ch from the hook , 5 sc
(6) 12
Row 2: inc, 5 sc (7)
Row 3: 6 sc, inc (8)
Row 4: inc, 7 sc (9)
Row 5: 8 sc, inc (10)
Row 6-9 (4 rows): 10 sc (10)
Row 10: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc (9)
Row 11: 4 sc, dec, 3 sc (8)
7
Row 12: dec, 4 sc, dec (6)
Row 13: dec, 2sc, dec (4)
Row 14: dec x 2 (2)
FO and weave in the end.
See picture 12
Mouth
The mouth is made in rows. Make a ch at the end of each row. The turning ch
does not count as a stitch.
Start the chain approximately 20 cm
into the yarn. The end will be used to
sew the mouth to the head later.
13
Chain 8.
Row 1: sc into the 2nd ch from the
hook, 6 sc (7) Front
Row 2: dec, 3 sc, dec (5)
FO and weave the end up along the
edge. See picture 13
Tongue
Use the pink worsted weight yarn and hook size 2,5 mm. The tongue is made
in rows. Make a ch at the end of each row. The turning ch does not count as a
stitch.
Start the chain approximately 10-15 cm into the yarn. The end will be used
to sew the tongue to the head later.
8
Chain 8.
Row 1: sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, 6 sc
14
(7)
Back
Row 2-3 (2 rows): 7 sc (7)
Row 4: 3 sc, dec, 2 sc (6)
Row 5: dec x 3 (3) Front
FO and weave the end up along the edge. See
picture 14
Sew the ears to the head. I have placed them over round 11- 14. See picture
15. Make a stitch across from the head into the edge of the ear on row 4 of the
ear. This will help the ear to stay slightly bent. See picture 16
FO and hide the end inside the head.
15 16
9
Body
You start at the chest and work towards the end section of the body.
Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
Round 2: inc x 6 (12)
Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
Round 7-11 (5 rounds): 36 sc (36)
Round 12: 12 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 6, 12 sc (42)
Round 13: 12 sc, (2 sc, inc) x 6, 12 sc (48)
Round 14: 48 sc (48)
Round 15: 12 sc, (3 sc, inc) x 6, 12 sc (54)
Round 16: (3 sc, dec) x 3, 24 sc, (3 sc, dec) x 3 (48)
Round 17: (2 sc, dec) x 4, 24 sc, (2 sc, dec) x 2 (42)
Round 18: (1 sc, dec) x 4, 24 sc, (1 sc, dec) x 2 (36)
Round 19: 36 sc (36)
Now crochet 2 sc and move the
stitchmarker. This is the new end of 17
round. See picture 17
Start filling the body with stuffing.
Round 20: dec x 3, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc) x
6, 3 sc, dec x 3 (36)
Round 21: 36 sc (36)
Round 22: dec x 3, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc) x
6, 3 sc, dec x 3 (36)
Round 23-28 (6 rounds): 36 sc (36)
Round 29: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
10
Round 30: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Add more stuffing. Pack it tightly.
Round 31: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Round 32: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12) 18 End section
Round 33: dec x 6 (12) Back
FO and close the opening as explained at
the start. Hide the end inside the body.
Picture 18 shows the finished body.
The side with all the dec is the belly and Belly
should face downwards when the parts
Chest
are assembled.
Front legs x 2
Round 1: 8 sc in a magic ring (8)
Round 2: inc x 6 (16)
Round 3: 16 sc (16)
Round 4: (2sc, dec) x 4 (12)
Round 5: 12 sc (12)
Round 6: dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc (10)
Round 7-16 (10 rounds): 10 sc (10)
Fill the leg with stuffing. 19
Round 17: dec x 5 (5)
FO and close the opening as shown at
the start. Leave enough yarn to be able
so sew the leg to the body later.
See picture 19
11
Back legs x 2:
Round 1: 8 sc in a magic ring (8)
Round 2: inc x 6 (16)
Round 3: inc x 8, 8 sc (24)
Round 4: 8 x dec, 8 sc (16)
Round 5: 1 sc, dec x 6, 3 sc (10)
Round 6-10 (5 rounds): 10 sc (10)
Round 11: 2 sc, inc x2, 6 sc (12) 20
Round 12: 3 sc, inc x 4, 5 sc (16)
Add stuffing and pack it tighly. After this
round there will be no stuffing.
Round 13: 4 sc, inc x4, 8 sc (20)
Round 14: 20 sc (20)
Round 15: 6 sc, inc x 4, 10 sc (24)
Stuffing to
Round 16-18 (3 rounds): 24 sc (24) this point
Round 19: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Round 20: ( 1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Round 21: dec x 6 (6)
FO and close the opening as shown at the
start. Leave enough yarn to be able so sew
the leg to the body later.
See picture 20
Tail
Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
Round 2: inc, 5 sc (7)
Round 3: 1 sc, inc, 5 sc (8)
12
Round 4: 2 sc, inc, 5 sc (9)
Round 5: 3 sc, inc, 5 sc (10)
Keep adding stuffing as you go. 21
Round 6-18 (13 rounds): 10 sc (10)
FO but leave enough yarn to be able to sew
the tail to the body later. See picture 21
Assembly
Start by sewing the tongue onto round 3 of the head. Secure the yarn and
hide the end inside the head. See picture 22
22
Sew the mouth to the head. Sew the back of the mouth part to round 5 of the
head so that the front of the mouth part reaches round 3 and covers the start
of the tongue. Secure the ends and hide them inside the head. See pictures 23
and 24
23 24
13
The head is finished.
See picture 25 25
Now it’s time to sew the back legs to the back of the body. Sew along the
curve of the upper part of the leg and sew the inner side of the leg to the body
as shown in pictures 26 and 27
See pictures 28 and 29 for guidance on the placement of the leg.
Secure the yarn and hide the end inside the leg.
26 27
Sew along
the curve
Sew on the
inside of the leg
28 29
14
The front legs are sewn on so that they start on round 10 of the body. Sew
along the upper and lower part of the leg so that it is firmly attatched to the
body. Secure the yarn and hide the end inside the body. See pictures 30 and 31
30 31
Sew along the
upper and
lower part of
the leg
Sew the tail to the back of the dog. I have placed it over round 27-29. Secure
the yarn and hide the end inside the body. See pictures 32-34
32 33 34
15
Cut off a long piece of the chenille yarn and use it to sew the head to the
body. I have placed it over round 5-9 but there are many options. Maybe you
want your dog to look left or right? Up? Play around and see what looks
good to you! When you are happy with the placement, sew the head in place.
Make extra stitches in the neck to keep the head fixed in the position you
want. See pictures 35-37
Secure the yarn and hide the ends inside the body.
35 37 Extra stitches here
36
Cut a piece of the black cotton worsted weight yarn and thread it to the
needle. Insert the needle at the back of one of the paws, then make 3 stitches
over the front of the paw. Exit throught the same stitch/gap that you
entered through, tie the ends and pull both the ends and the knot into the
paw. See pictures 38 and 39
Repeat on the other 3 paws.
38 39
You are finished! I hope you had fun!
16
Thank you for purchasing my pattern! If you have any questions please send
me a message and I’ll help you out! I would love to see your finished project
and it would make me so happy if you wanted to show me, either on
Instagram or in a review in my Etsy shop!
Please follow me on Instagam www.instagram.com/iduncreations
My Etsy shop is www.etsy.com/shop/iduncreations and my website is
www.iduncreations.com
You can sell what you crochet from my pattern but the pattern itself can’t be
sold, redistributed or copied. If you sell your finished product always
reference to me, Mikaela Linderholm, as the designer and the shop link
www.etsy.com/shop/iduncreations.
THANK YOU!
