VIETNAM NATIONAL UNIVERSITY - HCM SEPTEMBER 2023
HO CHI MINH UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY
COSMETIC
TOXICOLOGY
Surfactants and preservatives
TABLE
of contents
Introduction of preservatives Introduction of surfactants
I. DMDM Hydantoin III.SLES
II. Sodium Benzoate IV. SLS
INTRODUCTION OF PRESERVATIVES
PURPOSES OF PRESERVATIVES IN COSMETIC
ANTIBACTERIA ANTIFUNGI
INTRODUCTION OF PRESERVATIVES
COMMON COSMETIC PRESERVATIVES
Paraben groups Formaldehyde releasing agents
INTRODUCTION OF PRESERVATIVES
COMMON COSMETIC PRESERVATIVES
Isothiazolinones Potassium
Sorbate
I. DMDM Hydantoin
01 02 03 04
Origin, DMDM hydantoin Allowable Poisoning
Characteristic in cosmetic concentration symptoms
properties product
01 Formaldehyde- releaser
Formaldehyde-releaser are preservatives being able to release formadehyde
Functions: antibaterial, antifungal & antimicrobial
Contain Quaternium 15
(Formaldehyde-releaser)
Imidazolidinyl urea
Contain Imidazolidinyl urea
(Formaldehyde-releaser)
Quaternium 15
Johnson's, Baby Head-To-Toe Wash
Concerns: Allergies & Irritation
Aeva Beauty Eyeliner Pen, FE LNR
Concerns: Allergies/immunotoxicity
01 DMDM Hydantoin (Commercial name: Glydant)
Structure: C7H12N2O4
DMDM hydantoin (group of formaldehyde-releasing agents) - a type of chemical
being shown to cause cancer.
It exists as a white, odorless liquid and has antimicrobial properties.
01 Characteristic properties
Mechanism of DMDM Hydantoin to release Formaldehyde
1.When DMDM hydantoin is exposed to water, it undergoes hydrolysis, which is the
process of breaking a chemical bond with the addition of water.
DMDM hydantoin + H2O → Formaldehyde + Urea
2.The formaldehyde generated from the hydrolysis of DMDM hydantoin is then
released slowly over time. This slow release is achieved through the decomposition of
urea
Urea + H2O → Ammonia + Carbon Dioxide
In water solution, DMDM Hydantoin 55% release 0.5% - 2.0% free formaldehyde
The formaldehyde content can only be determined at the time of sample analysis
Factors affect:
1. Nature & Concentration of formaldehyde-releaser compounds 2. pH 3. Storage time
4. Levels of contamination 5. Presence of other components in the product
02 DMDM hydantoin in cosmetic product
Include 3 product categories: rinse-off products (shampoo, conditioner, body wash, toothpaste, etc.)
leave-on products (makeup remover, perfume, lotion, body cream,
hand sanitizer, nail polish remover, mouthwash, etc.)
household cleaning products (floor cleaner, kitchen cleaner, etc.)
Contain DMDM Hydantoin (Formaldehyde-releaser)
Hiruscar gel for Scar Treatment Tresemme Expert Selection OGX Thick & Full + Biotin &
Botanique Nourish and Replenish Collagen Shampoo for Thin
Shampoo Hair
03 Permissible concentration
The allowable levels of substances in cosmetics are regulated differently in each region
and country.
The European Union proposes a maximum allowable level of 0.1-0.6% for six substances in
cosmetics.
In Japan, DMDM Hydantoin (Glydant) and Imidazolidinyl Urea have been permitted in
shampoo, body wash, and facial cleanser products since October 1990.
In Taiwan, DMDM Hydantoin (Glydant), Imidazolidinyl Urea, and Quaternium 15 are allowed
to contain free formaldehyde below 1000 ppm since July 1998.
03 Allowable concentration
03 Allowable concentration
04 Poisoning symptoms
Routes of entry of cosmetic products :
Absorption through skin
04 Poisoning symptoms
Skin irritations and Skin sensitation
II. Sodium Benzoate
01 02 03 04
Properties Sodium Mechanism of Impact on
Benzoate in sodium the body
consumer benzoate as
product preservative
01. Properties
Structure
:
Other name:
E211
01. Properties
Physical Chemical
• Appearance: white Sodium benzoate can
or colorless be decarboxylated with
crystalline powder strong base and heat,
• Odor: Odorless yielding benzene:
• Soluble in water and
ethanol
01. Properties
Dosage of Sodium benzoate
• The FDA allows up to a 0.1% concentration of sodium benzoate by weight in
foods and beverages.
• Sodium benzoate safe as used in cosmetics, where maximum usage levels
range from 0.5–1%
02. Sodium Benzoate in consumer product
03. Mechanism
The preservative activity of sodium benzoate
depends on the undissociated molecules. It has
strong lipophilic properties so it easily
penetrates cell membranes and then penetrates
deep into bacteria, thereby hindering the
absorption of amino acids by the cell membrane.
04. Impact on the body
Sodium Benzoate with Vitamin C
Sodium benzoate can react with vitamin C and thus form carcinogenic benzene. It is worth noting that heat
and light can increase the rate of benzene formation
04. Impact on the body
Effect of Sodium Benzoate on Liver and Kidney
Function
04. Impact on the body
Sodium Benzoate—Irritating Effect on the Gastric Mucosa
04. Impact on the body
Sodium Benzoate and
Children’s Hyperactivity
04. Impact on the body
Effect of Sodium Benzoate on Hormone
Levels
04. Impact on the body
Effect of Sodium Benzoate on the Embryos
INTRODUCTION OF SURFACTANTS
PURPOSES OF SURFACTANTS IN COSMETIC
• Cleansing
• Foaming
• Thickening
• Emulsifying
• Solubilizing
• Penetration enhancement
• Antimicrobial effects
Surfactants
Abbreviated from SURFace ACTive
Agent
• Has the ability to "mix" oil and water by acting on the surface between fat and water.
• Can be mixed with water and skin lipids (food dirt, sebum, sweat...).
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES),
05
04 First aid, treatment
Symptoms of
03 poisoning and
and prevention
measures
02 Toxicity and effect on the
entry body
01 How to use and
products using
Origin and
SLES
properties
01 Origin & Properties
· SLES is is a white or yellowish liquid
or powder, derived from coconut oil or
palm oil,
· Chemical formula:
CH3(CH2)10CH2(OCH2CH2)nOSO3Na
· Molar mass: 288.38 g/mol
· Melting temperature 206oC
· Density: 1.05 g/cm³
02 How to use and products using SLES
How to use SLES
How to dissolve SLES
/
Method 1:
SLES creates strong foam
Let the mixture sit 3-8 hrs
Method 2:
• Gently heat it to 70oC (high temperature 90 - 100oC
makes SLES no longer thicken)
• Stir well to dissolve SLES and avoid foaming.
02 How to use and products using SLES
Products using use SLES
03 Toxicity and entry
Toxicity of SLES
• SLES is considered safe for most people when used in cosmetics at
low concentrations. However, it can be an irritant to some
individuals, particularly when used in high concentrations.
• SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) and SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) are
biodegradable quickly and completely, so they do not affect the living
environment.
03 Toxicity and entry
Toxicity of SLES
03 Toxicity and entry
Toxicity of SLES
03 Toxicity and entry
How do toxicants enter
04 Symptoms of poisioning
04 Symptoms of poisioning
04 Symptoms of poisioning
05 First aid
05 First aid
05 First aid
05 Prevention measures
• When using products containing SLES, avoid getting
them in your eyes, and if contact occurs, rinse
thoroughly
• If you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergies,
consider using products with alternative preservatives.
• Keep cosmetic products out of reach of children to
prevent accidental ingestion.
IV. SLS
01 02 03 04 05
Origin, Symptoms of Effects Prevention
Characteristic SLS in consumer poisoning measures
properties product
Origin
SLS - SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE
ANIONIC SURFACTANT
Prop e rtie s
Physica Chemica Toxicologica
• l
White to slightly yellow • l to
Converted Lauryl • l
Absorbed through
• Slightly special odor Sulfate in strong acid skin when using
• Water solubility is 20g/L environment products
at 20 celsius degree
• Slightly soluble in alcohol • Should not exceed to
• Insoluble in chloroform, 1% in cosmetic
ether products
PRODUCTS
• Shampoos
• Hair
conditioners
• Toothpastes
• Shaving foam
• Cleansers
• Body wash
• Hand sanitizers
SYMPTOMS
Effects
Prevention
measures
• If you have oily skin, you
can use products
containing SLS
• If you have dry skin,
products with SLS-free are
more suitable for you
THANKS FOR YOUR LISTENING
