CONTENTS
VOLUME RECAP……………………………………….……………………….……………...………………..3
SAFE APPLICATION.…………………….…………………………….………………………………………..3
LUXURY AND TIME-CONSUMING TREATMENT………...…………………………………...………….3
CONTROL OF YOUR WORKING ENVIRONMENT………….…………………………………………..5
VOLUME ADHESIVE IS A “DIVA…………………………....………………………............................6
VOLUME TWEEZERS...............................................………………………….……………..............6
MEGA VOLUME LASHES.....................................................................................................6
TECHNICAL THEORY – MEGA VOLUME PICK UP.................................................................7
FAN PERFECTION................................................................................................................7
CHOOSING THE CORRECT FAN..........................................................................................7
NARROW FANS....................................................………………………….……........................8
WIDE FANS................................................................………………………….………….............8
FAN MISTAKES............................................ ………………………….………………....................8
WHY IS MEGA VOLUME SAFE – CORRECT VOLUME.................……………….…..………….....9
THE SIMPLE GUIDE TO THE CORRECT LEVEL OF VOLUME...................................................9
CALCULATING THE CORRECT LEVEL OF VOLUME TO USE?...............................................11
THE FORMULA FOR VOLUME..............................................………………………….……........12
THE MATHS......................................................................................................................13
VOLUME vs MEGA VOLUME…………………....................……………………...........................17
APPLICATION OF THE FAN (MIRROR LINK TECHNIQUE) ...............……………….................17
THE “SHIMMY” ................................................................................................................18
CORRECT AND INCORRECT PLACEMENT..........................................................................19
MEGA VOLUME EXCEPTIONS…….....................................................................................19
PERFECT BASES.................................................................................................................20
CORRECT GLUE DIPPING TECHNIQUE...................................……………………………..........21
MEGA VOLUME STYLING..................................………………………….….............................22
MEGA VOLUME TOP LINE EFFECT (OPTIONAL).................................................................23
TOP LINE EFFECT CLOSE UP.................................………………………….…………………........24
MEGA VOLUME POPULAR LASH STYLES..................................……………….……………….…24
CORRECT PLACEMENT......................................................................................................28
LASH MAPPING................................................................................................................28
MEGA VOLUME AFTER TREATMENT ADVICE.....................................................................29
AFTERCARE DOS & DON’TS..............................................................................................30
MEGA VOLUME INFILLS....................................................................................................30
PRICING............................................................................................................................30
EYE STYLES........................................................................................................................31
NOTES..............................................................................................................................33
2
VOLUME RECAP
Volume – the creation of lightweight bouquets of eyelash
extensions to create full and fluffy effects.
Ultra-fine extensions are used:
0.10
0.07 Volume
0.06
0.05
0.04 Mega Volume
0.03
SAFE APPLICATION
This still applies and we never overload or cause damage to the
natural lashes. Each set that we create is bespoke to the client.
Most clients desire the thick and full look, but rarely have the
natural lashes to support this look, therefore we must still educate
our clients as to what is realistically and safely achievable on
them.
LUXURY AND TIME-CONSUMING TREATMENT
Mega Volume is a luxury service, offered only by the
experienced technician. As such the service price is much higher
than classic or standard volume sets.
Mega Volume application can take from 3–5 hours per set, with
the use of more eyelash extensions and the creation of time-
consuming mega volume fans.
3
PRODUCT THEORY – ADHESIVES
Eyelash extension adhesive contains several ingredients, the main
being cyanoacrylate. The more cyanoacrylate, the higher the
strength of the adhesive.
Sensitive adhesives = low cyanoacrylate: slower drying, less
fumy, poor retention. (Not suitable for Russian or Colossal
volume).
Advanced adhesives = high level of cyanoacrylate: faster
drying, fumy, excellent retention. (Suitable for Russian and Mega
volume).
Cyanoacrylate uses moisture in the atmosphere to cure (not dry,
but we say “dry” to keep things simple) – curing is the
setting/polymerizing of the product.
Therefore, there has to be a perfect amount of humidity in the
atmosphere for the adhesive to perform.
§ Too little moisture and the glue will not cure properly – remains
tacky.
§ Too much moisture and the glue will over cure (shock
curing/fracturing) resulting in brittle bonds – can also cause the
glue to turn white, this is called blooming.
Both under curing and over curing will cause poor retention on
clients and lashes may come off within the next few days.
Temperature also plays a major role in the performance of lash
glue, so this must also be carefully controlled as well.
Most Lash Glues Will Work Within the Humidity Range Of 45-
55% Humidity and Temperature Of 19-24 Degrees.
4
CONTROL OF YOUR WORKING ENVIRONMENT
The ability to control your working environment is paramount
when applying eyelash extensions – this can be impossible if you
are a mobile therapist.
You will need the following devices to control your environment.
§ Hygrometer – a small inexpensive device that measures
temperature and humidity.
§ Air conditioner – to control and reduce temperature.
§ Dehumidifier – to remove excess moisture from the
environment.
§ Humidifier – to add moisture to the environment.
Volume lashing requires a specially developed volume adhesive
that will be of a thinner consistency and fast drying. Glue that is
too thick will not only look unappealing, but will also add extra
weight to the extensions and can cause damage to the natural
lashes.
Volume glue is designed to remain at the base of the natural lash
and not to wick up the shaft of the fans (non-wicking adhesive).
Wicking is a capillary action that causes the glue to travel
upwards.
Volume glue also needs to be fast setting, so that the base of the
fans is rapidly adhered together, and start their cure
immediately on application to the natural lash. Slow drying glue
will not only result in the fans closing in on themselves.
5
VOLUME ADHESIVE IS A “DIVA” Volume adhesive is very
temperamental; therefore, it is classed as a Diva. Although the
adhesive will generally work over a range of humidity and
temperature, volume adhesive requires both to be just perfect.
However, each volume adhesive performs differently, and
therefore you will need to find out what works for the adhesive
you choose to use. Make a note of your hygrometer readings on
the day where your glue appears to be working well, as this will
give you a good indication of the temperature and humidity that
your glue works best at.
VOLUME TWEEZERS The creation of consistently perfect fans not
only requires skill, but the use of a precise pair of volume
tweezers. Without a good pair of volume tweezers, even the best
and most experienced volume lash technicians will fail at making
a good fan.
Most volume tweezers are mass-produced and never hand
tested, therefore do not grab well. It is recommended that you
purchase your volume tweezers from suppliers that personally
hand test them and offer a quality assurance on your purchase.
Treat your volume tweezers with care and use them for volume
lashing only. Store them in a protective case and always have a
backup pair in the event that they are dropped and damaged
during the treatment.
MEGA VOLUME LASHES Mega volume requires the use of ultra-
fine extensions: 0.03, 0.04 and 0.05mm.
Volume lashes should be soft, flexible and be removed from the
strips easily. Not all volume lashes are the same, and mega
volume requires superior quality extensions for this precise
technique.
6
TECHNICAL THEORY – MEGA VOLUME PICK UP
The most popular mega volume pickup techniques are:
§ pre-fan – lashes remain on the strip and fanned to the side
§ loading bay – lashes are removed from the strip, replaced and
worked from their new position
§ bounce pad – double-sided foam used to bounce the fan open
§ scrub – lashes remain on the strip with a scrubbing technique
used to fan them.
FAN PERFECTION
Each mega volume fan that is produced must be even and
consistent, with the technician striving for perfection in every fan
that is created and applied.
CHOOSING THE CORRECT FAN
The creation of the correct fan is paramount when deciding the
look that you want to achieve.
7
NARROW FANS
§ Creates a dense dark
look.
§ Creates a uniformed strip
lash look.
§ Suitable for clients with
lots of natural lashes.
WIDE FANS
§ Create a fluffier softer
look
§ Create a textured
messy look.
§ Suitable for clients with
sparse natural lashes where coverage is required.
FAN MISTAKES
A fan that is either too wide or too narrow will ruin the
appearance of your set.
Too narrow:
§ moisture and oils can easily close this type of fan
§ fans appear to look “clumpy” or “stumpy”
§ adhesive easily wicks up this type of fan.
Too wide:
§ excessive overlap, resulting in a messy look
§ difficult to attach to the natural lash
§ fans easily lose natural balance and fall to the side.
8
WHY IS MEGA VOLUME SAFE? CORRECT VOLUME
Understanding the correct and safe volume weight to use has
always been a grey area within our industry. Sadly, there is still
a lot of damage being caused by technicians that are
overloading the natural lashes, and as such the eyelash
extensions industry still has a reputation for causing damage.
THE SIMPLE GUIDE TO THE CORRECT LEVEL OF VOLUME
Below you will see a simple guide that will help you select the
correct amount level of volume to use on a variety of natural lash
types, when using the maximum length of 12mm.
NB – if you choose to use over 12mm then you must recalculate the
level of volume you can safely use. When using 12mm as your
maximum length, you can be confident that the level of volume you
are using is correct.
9
Damaged natural lashes require a
break from extensions for up to 12
weeks and the use of a good lash
serum.
10
HOW DO WE CALCULATE THE CORRECT LEVEL OF VOLUME
TO USE?
This is a key question, if we want to promote healthy natural
lashes by not overloading them.
To answer this, we must find the volume of an eyelash extension.
Once we have this, we can then understand how many volume
extensions can fit inside a classic extension, and then use this
formula to calculate how much volume that client can safely hold.
Imagine a group of people wanting to catch the elevator to the
top floor. The elevator can only fit a certain number of people
inside, so that the doors can close and the elevator will not be too
heavy.
Elevator = classic lash i.e. 0.15mm
People = volume lash i.e. 0.05
How many 0.05s can we fit inside of a 0.15 if we hollowed it
out?
Here you can see that five
0.05mm volume lashes can
fit inside of a 0.15mm
classic lash, and there is
still some space left over.
11
THE FORMULA FOR
VOLUME
The shape of an
eyelash extension is
almost identical to a
cone; therefore, if we
can use the
mathematical formula
to find the volume of
a cone, then we can also use this to find the volume of an eyelash
extension.
The formula for a
cone is:
V = volume
π = 3.14
r = radius of the cone
h = height of the cone
NB – we are going to
change the radius to
diameter for this formula. When using the radius of eyelash
extensions as a calculation, the sum becomes too small to easily
calculate. Therefore, by using the diameter instead of the radius,
the formula is easier to work with yet still produces the same
result.
VOLUME = 3.14 X DIAMETER X DIAMETER X LASH LENGTH ÷ 3
The lash industry recommends that 12mm be the maximum longest
length that is used within your sets. Therefore, we are going to
use 12 as our height for the formula as we will know that any
lash length that is within this range will be safe.
If you choose to use over 13mm then you will need to change the
formula with h = 13mm etc.
12
THE MATHS
For example: (using a 0.15mm classic lash in 12mm) volume =
3.14 (pi) x 0.15 (d) x 0.15(d) x 12(h) ÷ 3 = 0.28
We now know that the volume of a 0.15mm extension with a
maximum length of 12mm is 0.28
Having now found our formula to work out the volume, we can
now use this formula to work out the volume for all of the
extensions that we use.
NB – at this stage you can round your calculations up.
Now we have these calculations, we can use them to work out
how many volume lashes can safely be supported by our clients.
13
EXAMPLE 1
If our client can safely support a 0.15 classic lash, but would like
to upgrade to volume, then we need to understand how many
volume extensions they can safely support.
By looking at the table of volume, we can see that the volume of
a 0.15 classic lash is 0.28.
Now we need to decide what thickness of volume we would like
to use on that client – let’s choose 0.05mm.
By looking at the table of volume, we can see that the volume of
a 0.05 volume lash is 0.03.
We can divide these figures to see how many volume lashes that
client can safely support: how many people can squeeze into the
elevator.
Now we are going to do the following calculation: do NOT round
your calculations up.
0.28 ÷ 0.03 = 9.33333 (=9) we can never round this figure up
(where applicable) as this would overload the natural lash.
Therefore, we now know that this client could safely support 9x
0.05mm extensions per natural lash.
14
EXAMPLE 2
If our client can safely support a 0.12 classic lash, but would like
to upgrade to volume, then we need to understand how many
volume extensions they can safely support.
By looking at the table of volume, we can see that the volume of
a 0.12 classic lash is 0.18
Now we need to decide what thickness of volume we would like
to use on that client – let’s choose 0.04mm
By looking at the table of volume, we can see that the volume of
a 0.04 volume lash is 0.02
We can divide these figures to see how many volume lashes that
client can safely support: (how many people can squeeze into the
elevator)
Now we are going to do the following calculation:
0.18 ÷ 0.02 = 9
Therefore, we now know that this client could safely support 9x
0.04mm extensions per natural lash
15
EXAMPLE 3
If our client can safely support a 0.10 classic lash, but would like
to upgrade to volume, then we need to understand how many
volume extensions they can safely support.
By looking at the table of volume, we can see that the volume of
a 0.10 lash is 0.13.
Now we need to decide what thickness of volume we would like
to use on that client – let’s choose 0.03mm.
By looking at the table of volume, we can see that the volume of
a 0.03 volume lash is 0.01.
We can divide these figures to see how many volume lashes that
client can safely support (how many people can squeeze into the
elevator).
Now we are going to do the following calculation:
0.13 ÷ 0.01 = 13
Therefore, we now know that this client could safely support 13x
0.03mm extensions per natural lash.
This formula is how you can now correctly calculate the safe level
of volume to use that is shown starts on page 11.
16
VOLUME vs MEGA
VOLUME
Mega volume requires the
perfect balance of the fan.
This technique ensures an
even distribution of weight
and symmetry of the
volume fan.
Therefore, we must split the volume (divide by two), for example,
if we were using 12D, then we would use 2x 6D fans (0.05mm).
1 x 6D 0.05mm + 1 x 6D 0.05mm = 12D (0.05mm)
APPLICATION OF THE FAN (MIRROR LINK TECHNIQUE)
The application of colossal volume has its own specific technique.
Placement of the fan is performed in two stages.
Step 1 – apply fan 1 from the side of the natural lash (i.e. 1 x
6D 0.05mm)
Step 2 – apply fan 2 from the opposite side of the natural lash
(1 x 6D 0.05mm)
17
THE “SHIMMY”
Application of the fan onto the natural lash requires a shimmy;
this helps distribute the glue for a seamless and secure bond, as
well as ensuring the fan grabs correctly.
1. Dip the fan into the glue.
2. Approach the natural lash from the side.
3. Make contact with the natural lash.
4. Perform a quick and minimal up and down movement (shimmy)
to ensure the correct attachment.
5. Hold in place for 3-6 seconds.
6. Gently release the fan.
Repeat this technique from the opposite side of the natural lash.
18
CORRECT AND INCORRECT PLACEMENT
Mega fans must run parallel with each other; this will achieve the
correct uniformity and secure and seamless bond.
Both fans must make contact with each other and be attached at
the base, with the contact area being approximately 1/3 of the
length of the fan.
MEGA VOLUME EXCEPTIONS
Mega Volume is not suitable for the following:
§ short (baby), thin or damaged natural lashes sparse natural
lashes
§ inner or outer corners.
Megal volume will cause damage to the above, instead use a
lighter level of volume such as 2/3D and adjust your fan width to
suit the individual.
19
PERFECT BASES
Each fan that we create must have a perfect base, where each
extension comes together to wrap or envelop the other at the
base of the fan.
If the extensions remain side by side you will get the T-Bar effect.
These will not bond well to the natural lash, look unappealing
and show a lack of skill from the technician.
If the bases create a beautiful point, then they will attach
seamlessly to the natural lash for a secure bond and beautiful
clean looking set. This is particularly important for colossal volume
where the fan is applied in two stages and the seamless bond is
paramount.
The diagram below shows how a T-Bar cannot wrap onto the
natural lash, and therefore the bond becomes compromised,
whereas the correct fan attaches seamlessly and securely.
NB –The bigger your
fan (6D/7D/8D etc.)
the more likely it is for
the base to take on the
appearance of a
thicker looking base
due to the amount of
extensions used,
however there is no
excuse for the T-Bar.
20
CORRECT GLUE DIPPING TECHNIQUE
Glue dipping your fan is nothing like classic lash glue dipping.
We must have perfect control over the fan at all times and dip
into the glue by 1mm only. This means that we prefer to slowly
skim the top of the adhesive rather than go into it.
Your adhesive will start to develop a skin over time, therefore
ensure that you only ever go into the top of your adhesive, and
never the sides, as this is where the adhesive remains the freshest
and the consistency the thinnest. Always change your adhesive by
dispensing a brand-new fresh amount. every 15–20 minutes.
Adhesive that has lost its thin consistency will not only cause you
to start picking up a “ball”, but will ruin the base of your fan.
Correct amount of adhesive – 1mm only
21
MEGA VOLUME STYLING
The most popular curls used for Mega Volume are:
D curl – this curl offers one of the most extreme effects, with its
lifted or open eye appearance. Most suited to the younger client,
or those requesting that dramatic look. Perfect for Mega Volume
where the desired look is usually extreme.
C curl – this curl provides the client with a soft, yet beautiful
effect. It is the universal curl of the lash industry that will suit most
clients.
B curl – very
natural effect, with
a very light curl
suitable for the
older client, or for
use in the inner
corners.
The above curls can
be mixed with your
Mega Volume sets,
usually with the B or
C curl being used in
the inner corners and the D towards the outer.
NB – a D curl will usually look shorter than a C or B curl, therefore
if you are mixing curls you may need your D curl to be 2mm longer
when transitioning your lash zones. This also applies if mixing a C
with a B curl
22
MEGA VOLUME TOP LINE EFFECT (OPTIONAL)
The Mega Volume technique can create a super sharp top line
effect (this is the sharp edge that runs along the tips of the
extensions).
However, to achieve this effect you must understand how to
correctly lash each layer of natural lashes.
Typically, most natural eyelashes grow in three layers:
§ Top – these sit high in the lash layers and can sometimes curl
upwards
§ Middle – these sit in the middle of the layers
§ Lower – these sit low in the layer and can be straighter or
grow downwards
The length of extension should be adjusted for each layer of the
three layers, for example:
If layer 1 (top) is 9mm, then layer 2 (middle) should be 10mm
and layer three (bottom) should be 11mm (add or subtract 1mm
per layer).
This technique ensures that the lower layers reach up to the top
layers, thus creating that perfectly sharp top line effect.
If all layers are incorrectly lashed at the same length per that
zone, then the top line effect will be lost and the appearance will
look jagged.
(Sharp top line effect) (Lack of top line effect)
23
TOP LINE EFFECT CLOSE UP
The diagram below shows close up from the side profile, how the
extensions vary in length when applied to the different layers.
MEGA VOLUME POPULAR LASH STYLES
Advanced eye styling is an in-depth subject that can take months
if not years to perfect.
At the back of this manual you will find some bonus advanced
guides to assist you with this technical area of eyelash extensions.
Please read and study in your own time, as lash styling is another
lash course altogether.
Below you will see three of the most popular lash styles used for
Mega volume
24
DOLLY EFFECT
Suitable for:
§ younger clients
§ clients with wide set eyes (draws the eyes closer together)
§ creating the illusion of an open/doe eye
§ clients that like a lot of length throughout the lash line.
Unsuitable for:
§ clients with round eyes (makes eyes look rounder)
§ clients with weak inner and outer (long lengths damage weak
inners and outers).
Curls used:
§ C/D/L/L+ (strong curls to create lift).
Adjust the length by 1-2mm for either shorter or longer effect.
25
CAT/KITTEN EFFECT
This style is a combination between the two most popular and
requested looks.
Suitable for:
§ clients that desire that feline/winged effect
§ clients with close-set eyes (draws the eyes apart).
Unsuitable for:
§ clients with very wide set eyes (makes eyes look wider).
Curls used:
§ B and C curls, sometimes D curl on the very outer corners.
Adjust the length by 1-2mm for either shorter or longer effect.
26
ROUNDING EFFECT
Suitable for:
§ older clients, including those where the inners and outer are
weak
§ clients with a hooded eye or heavy brow
§ excess skin on the eyelid
§ tired look
§ clients with wide-set eyes (draws the eyes together).
Unsuitable for:
§ clients with close set eyes (makes eyes look even closer).
Curls used:
§ B and C curls (most popular effect used for older clients
therefore the B and C curl is most suited).
Adjust the length by 1–2mm for either shorter or longer effect.
27
CORRECT PLACEMENT
Mega volume requires the correct placement of the extension
onto the natural lash. Apply your colossal fans at a perpendicular
angle to the curvature of the eyelid.
LASH MAPPING
Lash mapping is your road map/sat nav for creating the perfect
set. Without your map you will get lost along the way, therefore
you must lash map.
Lash mapping is the drawing of your style guide on your pads,
marking the lengths, curls and transition of each so that you
cannot get lost.
A good lash artist
ALWAYS uses a
lash map.
28
MEGA VOLUME AFTER TREATMENT ADVICE
Clients MUST clean their Mega Volume lashes, just like they
should be cleaning their classic and volume lashes.
Each night, clients must clean around the eye area and lash line
with a cotton bud and their lash cleanser to ensure the whole
area is squeaky clean.
Every 2–3 days your clients should thoroughly wash their lashes
just the same as they wash their hair – so why not do it at the
same time.
Step 1 – Take a soft eye shadow or
cleansing brush and work your foamed
lash cleanser into the lashes, using the
brush to get into every part of the lashes
and lash line – 30 seconds to 1 min is
usually enough.
Step 2 – Flush the brush through with clean
water, take off the excess and work
through the lashes to flush out the foaming
solution – repeat as necessary until all the
foam is out of the lashes.
Now repeat with the other eye
Step 3 – Pat lashes dry with either, paper towel, a hand towel, or
blow dry on a cool setting.
Step 4 – Brush lashes thoroughly only when dry to tame back into
position.
Clients should carry a mascara wand with them and brush their
lashes 4–5 times a day. This really does help keep them soft,
fluffy and separated.
29
AFTERCARE DOS & DON’TS
1. Do not get the extensions wet for 24 hours (this includes steam).
2. Do not use a sauna or sun bed within 24 hours of treatment.
3. Do not pick or pull at the extensions.
4. Do not apply mascara, sealant, or eyeliner to the upper lid
(unless powder).
5. Keep extensions clean (lash cleanser) and brush well.
Use a designated lash cleanser, as it is designed solely for lash cleansing.
Yes baby shampoo does work, but it’s not technically designed for the
lashes and therefore shouldn’t really be used on the eyes.
6. Keep oil-based products away from extensions
7. Do not sleep on your face
8. Do not curl the extensions - unless using a heated lash rod
9. Keep heat products away from extensions
MEGA VOLUME INFILLS
Mega volume infills are not recommended. The added volume
effect of Colossal volume will ensure that the set looks fuller for
longer (4–6 weeks instead of 2–3 weeks.)
Mega volume is designed to be precise, sharp and accurate,
therefore any infill of the set will be unable to maintain the
precision of the set and it will look messy and lack perfection.
PRICING
This will always be dependent on your area, therefore take a
look at the prices around you.
Any good business must take a mathematical approach to the
prices they need to charge for the services/products they offer.
For the treatment of colossal volume, you will need to consider
the extra work, skill, products and time that it takes to perform
the service.
30
EYE STYLES
NATURAL EFFECT The extensions
mirror the natural lashes.
ROUNDING EFFECT, the longest
lashes are placed in the middle
of the eyelid, and shorter the
inner and outer corners, to
visually open up the eye.
DOLLS EFFECT This is when the
longest lashes are used throughout
the lash line, except in the inner
corners, where a rapid graduation
of lash length is applied.
31
CAT EFFECT The lash extension length
increases from shortest in the inner
corner, to the longest on the outer
corner.
KITTEN EFFECT This is similar to the
cat effect, but involves placing
shorter lashes on the very outer
corner of the eye. S
32
NOTES
THESE TECHNIQUES ARE JUST THE TIP OF THE ICEBERG WHEN
CREATING BEAUTIFUL BESPOKE SETS OF EYELASH EXTENSIONS.
THE KEY IS TO OPEN YOUR MIND AND USE A VARIETY OF
TECHNIQUES AND SKILLS WITHIN YOUR SETS, WHEN YOU LEARN
TO DO THIS YOU CAN CREATE HUNDREDS OF EFFECTS.
33
