SM 15
SM 15
WARNING
WARNING
WARNING: Chrysler LLC does not manufacture any vehicles or replacement parts
that contain asbestos. Aftermarket products may or may not contain
asbestos. Refer to aftermarket product packaging for product information.
Whether the product contains asbestos or not, dust and dirt can
accumulate on brake parts during normal use. Follow practices
prescribed by appropriate regulations for the handling, processing and
disposing of dust and debris.
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CAUTION
CAUTION
CAUTION: Use only Mopar® brake fluid or an equivalent from a tightly sealed
container. Brake fluid must conform to DOT 3 specifications. Do not use
petroleum-based fluid because seal damage in the brake system will
result.
CAUTION: Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled on any
painted surfaces, wash it off immediately with water.
CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol, motor oil, transmission fluid, or
any fluid containing mineral oil to clean system components. These fluids
damage rubber cups and seals.
CAUTION: During service procedures, grease or any other foreign material must be
kept off the caliper assembly, brake linings, brake rotor and external
surfaces of the hub.
CAUTION: Disc brake calipers are made of aluminum. They are anodized and appear
black in color. When handling the calipers or brake rotors, be careful to
avoid damaging them, and avoid scratching or nicking the brake pad
lining.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
BASE BRAKE BLEEDING
CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder cover, wipe it clean to prevent dirt
and other foreign matter from dropping into the master cylinder.
CAUTION: Use only Mopar® brake fluid or an equivalent from a fresh, tightly sealed
container. Brake fluid must conform to DOT 3 specifications.
NOTE: For bleeding the antilock brake hydraulic system, Refer to STANDARD
PROCEDURE - ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING .
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NOTE: Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while having a bleeder screw open
during the bleeding process. This will only increase the amount of air in the
system and make additional bleeding necessary.
NOTE: Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to run out of brake fluid while
bleeding the system. An empty reservoir will allow additional air into the brake
system. Check the fluid level frequently and add fluid as needed.
The following wheel circuit sequence for bleeding the brake hydraulic system should be used to
ensure adequate removal of all trapped air from the brake hydraulic system.
NOTE: Pressure bleeding is highly recommended to bleed this brake system to ensure
all air is removed from system. Manual bleeding may also be used, but
additional time is needed to remove all air from system.
The base brake system can be bled using the pressure method or the manual method. Both methods
are presented in this text.
1. Remove filler cap from the top of fluid reservoir (2) on master cylinder.
2. Install Adapter (1), Special Tool (special tool #6921, Cap, Master Cylinder), in the caps place on
the reservoir (2).
3. Attach Bleeder Tank, Special Tool C-3496-B, or equivalent, to Adapter (special tool #6921, Cap,
Master Cylinder) (1). Pressurize the system following the pressure bleeder manufacturer's
instructions.
4. Raise and support vehicle placing rear of vehicle approximately 5° higher than the front or if
measured at the rear bumper (1), approximately 10-12 inches above level. It will be necessary
to add extra support stands under vehicle to support this angle.
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Fig. 3: Bleeding Brakes
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. If installed, remove rubber dust caps from all four bleeder screws on calipers.
6. Starting at the first wheel circuit as listed earlier, attach a clear hose (1) to the bleeder screw at
that wheels brake caliper and feed the other end of hose into a clear jar (2) containing enough
fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
CAUTION: Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn when instructed. Some
air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as far as
ten feet or more from the bleeder screw. If the bleeder screw is not
opened sufficiently, fluid flow is restricted causing a slow, weak fluid
discharge. This will NOT get all the air out. Therefore, it is essential to
open the bleeder screw at least one full turn to allow a fast, large
volume discharge of brake fluid.
7. Open bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to obtain an adequate flow of brake fluid.
8. After 4 to 8 ounces of brake fluid has been bled through the brake hydraulic circuit, and an air-
free flow (no bubbles) is maintained in the clear plastic hose (1) and jar (2), close the bleeder
screw.
9. Bleed the remaining wheel circuits in the same manner until all air is removed from the brake
hydraulic system.
10. Check brake pedal travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, some air may still be
trapped in the hydraulic system. Rebleed the brake system as necessary.
11. If equipped with antilock brakes, the hydraulic control unit may need to be bled, then rebleed
base brakes. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE - ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING .
12. Reinstall all 4 bleeder screw dust caps.
13. Test drive vehicle to ensure brakes are operating properly and pedal feel is correct.
NOTE: To bleed the base brake system manually, an assistants help is required.
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Fig. 4: Vehicle Rear Raised For Bleeding
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
NOTE: To ensure all air is bled from the ICU or junction block in a timely manner, it is
recommended to raise the rear of the vehicle approximately 5° higher than the
front or approximately 10-12 inches as measured at the rear bumper (1).
1. Raise and support vehicle placing rear of vehicle approximately 5° higher than the front or if
measured at the rear bumper (1), approximately 10-12 inches above level. It will be necessary
to add extra support stands under vehicle to support this angle.
Fig. 5: Bleeding Brakes
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
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2. Remove rubber duct caps from all 4 bleeder screws.
3. Attach a clear hose (1) to the bleeder screw at one wheel and feed the other end of the hose
into a clear jar (2) containing fresh brake fluid.
4. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal three or four times and hold it down before the bleeder
screw is opened.
CAUTION: Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn when instructed. Some
air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as far as
ten feet or more from the bleeder screw. If the bleeder screw is not
opened sufficiently, fluid flow is restricted causing a slow, weak fluid
discharge. This will NOT get all the air out. Therefore, it is essential to
open the bleeder screw at least one full turn to allow a fast, large
volume discharge of brake fluid.
5. While the pedal is being held down, open the bleeder screw at least 1 full turn. When the
bleeder screw opens the brake pedal will drop all the way to the floor. Continue to hold the
pedal all the way down.
6. Once the brake pedal has dropped, close the bleeder screw. The pedal can then be released.
7. Repeat steps One through Five until all trapped air is removed from that wheel circuit (usually
four or five times). This should pass a sufficient amount of fluid to expel all the trapped air from
the brakes hydraulic system. Be sure to monitor brake fluid level in master cylinder fluid
reservoir making sure it stays at a proper level. This will ensure air does not reenter brake
hydraulic system through master cylinder.
NOTE: Monitor the brake fluid level in the fluid reservoir periodically to make sure
it does not go too low. This will ensure that air does not reenter the brake
hydraulic system.
8. Bleed the remaining wheel circuits in the same manner until all air is removed from the brake
hydraulic system.
9. Check brake pedal travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, some air may still be
trapped in the hydraulic system. Rebleed the brake system as necessary.
10. If equipped with antilock brakes, the hydraulic control unit may need to be bled, then rebleed
base brakes. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE - ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING .
11. Reinstall all 4 bleeder screw dust caps.
12. Test drive vehicle to ensure brakes are operating properly and pedal feel is correct.
Use the following procedure to bleed the rear brake calipers of this vehicle. The front brake calipers
may be bled using the same procedure as the standard model.
CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder cover, wipe it clean to prevent dirt
and other foreign matter from dropping into the master cylinder.
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CAUTION: Use only Mopar® brake fluid or an equivalent from a fresh, tightly sealed
container. Brake fluid must conform to DOT 3 specifications.
NOTE: For bleeding the antilock brake hydraulic system, refer to STANDARD
PROCEDURE - ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING .
NOTE: Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while having a bleeder screw open
during the bleeding process. This will only increase the amount of air in the
system and make additional bleeding necessary.
NOTE: Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to run out of brake fluid while
bleeding the system. An empty reservoir will allow additional air into the brake
system. Check the fluid level frequently and add fluid as needed.
NOTE: Pressure bleeding is highly recommended to bleed this brake system to ensure
all air is removed from system. Manual bleeding may also be used, but
additional time is needed to remove all air from system.
Although it is recommended that the base brake system be bled using the pressure method, the
manual method can also be performed. Both methods are presented in this text.
1. Remove filler cap from the top of fluid reservoir (2) on master cylinder.
2. Install Adapter (1), Special Tool (special tool #6921, Cap, Master Cylinder), in the caps place on
the reservoir (2).
3. Attach Bleeder Tank, Special Tool C-3496-B, or equivalent, to Adapter (special tool #6921, Cap,
Master Cylinder) (1). Pressurize the system following the pressure bleeder manufacturer's
instructions.
4. Raise and support vehicle placing rear of vehicle approximately 5° higher than the front or if
measured at the rear bumper (1), approximately 10-12 inches above level. It will be necessary
to add extra support stands under vehicle to support this angle.
NOTE: The following wheel circuit sequence for bleeding the brake hydraulic system
should be used to ensure adequate removal of all trapped air from the brake
hydraulic system.
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Right front wheel
Left front wheel
REAR BRAKES
1. If installed, remove rubber dust caps from both bleeder screws on each caliper.
2. Starting at the first wheel circuit that needs to be bled (See list in above note), attach a clear
hose (3) to the inboard bleeder screw (2) at that wheels brake caliper and feed the other end of
hose into a clear jar (4) containing enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
CAUTION: Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn when instructed. Some
air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as far as
ten feet or more from the bleeder screw. If the bleeder screw is not
opened sufficiently, fluid flow is restricted causing a slow, weak fluid
discharge. This will NOT get all the air out. Therefore, it is essential to
open the bleeder screw at least one full turn to allow a fast, large
volume discharge of brake fluid.
3. Open inboard bleeder screw (2) at least one full turn or more to obtain an adequate flow of
brake fluid.
4. After 4 to 8 ounces of brake fluid has been bled through the brake hydraulic circuit, and an air-
free flow (no bubbles) is maintained in the clear plastic hose (3) and jar (4), close the bleeder
screw (2).
5. Remove clear hose and install bleeder screw dust cap.
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Fig. 9: Bleeding Caliper Outboard Half
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
6. Attach a clear hose (5) to the outboard bleeder screw (1) at that same wheels brake caliper and
feed the other end of hose into a clear jar (4) containing enough fresh brake fluid to submerge
the end of the hose.
CAUTION: Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn when instructed. Some
air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as far as
ten feet or more from the bleeder screw. If the bleeder screw is not
opened sufficiently, fluid flow is restricted causing a slow, weak fluid
discharge. This will NOT get all the air out. Therefore, it is essential to
open the bleeder screw at least one full turn to allow a fast, large
volume discharge of brake fluid.
7. Open outboard bleeder screw (1) at least one full turn or more to obtain an adequate flow of
brake fluid.
8. After 4 to 8 ounces of brake fluid has been bled through the brake hydraulic circuit, and an air-
free flow (no bubbles) is maintained in the clear plastic hose (5) and jar (4), close the bleeder
screw (1).
9. Remove clear hose and install bleeder screw dust cap.
10. Bleed opposite rear brake wheel circuits as necessary in the same manner until all air is
removed from the brake hydraulic system, then proceed to the front brakes.
FRONT BRAKES
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Fig. 10: Bleeding Brakes
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. If installed, remove rubber dust cap from bleeder screw on each front brake caliper.
2. Starting at the first wheel circuit that needs to be bled (See list in above note), attach a clear
hose (1) to the bleeder screw at that wheels brake caliper and feed the other end of hose into a
clear jar (2) containing enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
CAUTION: Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn when instructed. Some
air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as far as
ten feet or more from the bleeder screw. If the bleeder screw is not
opened sufficiently, fluid flow is restricted causing a slow, weak fluid
discharge. This will NOT get all the air out. Therefore, it is essential to
open the bleeder screw at least one full turn to allow a fast, large
volume discharge of brake fluid.
3. Open bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to obtain an adequate flow of brake fluid.
4. After 4 to 8 ounces of brake fluid has been bled through the brake hydraulic circuit, and an air-
free flow (no bubbles) is maintained in the clear plastic hose (1) and jar (2), close the bleeder
screw.
5. Install bleeder screw dust cap.
6. Bleed opposite front brake wheel circuit as necessary in the same manner until all air is
removed from the brake hydraulic system.
7. If equipped with antilock brakes, the hydraulic control unit may need to be bled, then rebleed
base brakes. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE - ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING .
8. Once all brakes are bled, check brake pedal travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not
improved, some air may still be trapped in the hydraulic system. Rebleed the brake system as
necessary.
9. Test drive vehicle to ensure brakes are operating properly and pedal feel is correct.
NOTE: To bleed the base brake system manually, an assistants help is required.
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Fig. 11: Vehicle Rear Raised For Bleeding
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
NOTE: To ensure all air is bled from the ICU or junction block in a timely manner, it is
recommended to raise the rear of the vehicle approximately 5° higher than the
front or approximately 10-12 inches as measured at the rear bumper (1).
1. Raise and support vehicle placing rear of vehicle approximately 5° higher than the front or if
measured at the rear bumper (1), approximately 10-12 inches above level. It will be necessary
to add extra support stands under vehicle to support this angle.
NOTE: The following wheel circuit sequence for bleeding the brake hydraulic system
should be used to ensure adequate removal of all trapped air from the brake
hydraulic system.
Right rear wheel
Left rear wheel
Right front wheel
Left front wheel
REAR BRAKES
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Fig. 12: Bleeding Caliper Inboard Half
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. If installed, remove rubber dust caps from both bleeder screws on each caliper.
2. Starting at the first wheel circuit that needs to be bled (See list in above note), attach a clear
hose (3) to the inboard bleeder screw (2) at that wheels brake caliper and feed the other end of
hose into a clear jar (4) containing enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
3. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal three or four times, then hold it down before the
bleeder screw is opened.
CAUTION: Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn when instructed. Some
air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as far as
ten feet or more from the bleeder screw. If the bleeder screw is not
opened sufficiently, fluid flow is restricted causing a slow, weak fluid
discharge. This will NOT get all the air out. Therefore, it is essential to
open the bleeder screw at least one full turn to allow a fast, large
volume discharge of brake fluid.
4. While the pedal is being held down, open the inboard bleeder screw (2) at least one full turn.
When the bleeder screw opens the brake pedal will drop all the way to the floor. Continue to
hold the pedal all the way down.
5. Once the brake pedal has dropped, close the bleeder screw. The pedal can then be released.
6. Repeat the above three steps until all trapped air is removed from that wheel circuit (usually four
or five times). This should pass a sufficient amount of fluid to expel all the trapped air from the
brakes hydraulic system. Be sure to monitor brake fluid level in master cylinder fluid
reservoir making sure it stays at a proper level. This will ensure air does not reenter brake
hydraulic system through master cylinder.
NOTE: Monitor the brake fluid level in the fluid reservoir periodically to make sure
it does not go too low. This will ensure that air does not reenter the brake
hydraulic system.
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Fig. 13: Bleeding Caliper Outboard Half
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
8. Attach a clear hose (5) to the outboard bleeder screw (1) at that same wheels brake caliper and
feed the other end of hose into a clear jar (4) containing enough fresh brake fluid to submerge
the end of the hose.
9. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal three or four times, then hold it down before the
bleeder screw is opened.
CAUTION: Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn when instructed. Some
air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as far as
ten feet or more from the bleeder screw. If the bleeder screw is not
opened sufficiently, fluid flow is restricted causing a slow, weak fluid
discharge. This will NOT get all the air out. Therefore, it is essential to
open the bleeder screw at least one full turn to allow a fast, large
volume discharge of brake fluid.
10. While the pedal is being held down, open the outboard bleeder screw (2) at least one full turn.
When the bleeder screw opens the brake pedal will drop all the way to the floor. Continue to
hold the pedal all the way down.
11. Once the brake pedal has dropped, close the bleeder screw. The pedal can then be released.
12. Repeat the above three steps until all trapped air is removed from that wheel circuit (usually four
or five times). This should pass a sufficient amount of fluid to expel all the trapped air from the
brakes hydraulic system. Be sure to monitor brake fluid level in master cylinder fluid
reservoir making sure it stays at a proper level. This will ensure air does not reenter brake
hydraulic system through master cylinder.
NOTE: Monitor the brake fluid level in the fluid reservoir periodically to make sure
it does not go too low. This will ensure that air does not reenter the brake
hydraulic system.
13. Remove clear hose and install bleeder screw dust cap.
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14. Bleed opposite rear brake wheel circuits as necessary in the same manner until all air is
removed from the brake hydraulic system, then proceed to the front brakes.
FRONT BRAKES
1. If installed, remove rubber dust cap from bleeder screw on each front brake caliper.
2. Starting at the first wheel circuit that needs to be bled (See list in above note), attach a clear
hose (1) to the bleeder screw at one wheel and feed the other end of the hose into a clear jar
(2) containing fresh brake fluid.
3. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal three or four times and hold it down before the bleeder
screw is opened.
CAUTION: Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn when instructed. Some
air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as far as
ten feet or more from the bleeder screw. If the bleeder screw is not
opened sufficiently, fluid flow is restricted causing a slow, weak fluid
discharge. This will NOT get all the air out. Therefore, it is essential to
open the bleeder screw at least one full turn to allow a fast, large
volume discharge of brake fluid.
4. While the pedal is being held down, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the
bleeder screw opens the brake pedal will drop all the way to the floor. Continue to hold the
pedal all the way down.
5. Once the brake pedal has dropped, close the bleeder screw. The pedal can then be released.
6. Repeat steps One through Five until all trapped air is removed from that wheel circuit (usually
four or five times). This should pass a sufficient amount of fluid to expel all the trapped air from
the brakes hydraulic system. Be sure to monitor brake fluid level in master cylinder fluid
reservoir making sure it stays at a proper level. This will ensure air does not reenter brake
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hydraulic system through master cylinder.
NOTE: Monitor the brake fluid level in the fluid reservoir periodically to make sure
it does not go too low. This will ensure that air does not reenter the brake
hydraulic system.
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS
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Parking Brake Cable Knuckle Mounting Screw 8 6 71
Parking Brake Lever (Pedal) Mounting Bolt And
26 19 230
Nuts
Wheel Mounting (Lug) Nuts 150 110 -
SPECIAL TOOLS
SPECIAL TOOLS
ELECTRICAL
PUMP, ELECTRIC VACUUM
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
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Fig. 15: Electric Vacuum Pump, Bolts & Studs
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
NOTE: Only vehicles with a 3.6L engine have an electric vacuum pump.
There is an electric vacuum pump (3) located on the back of the engine mounted to the top of the
transmission. The vacuum pump (3) has one electrical connector on a pigtail connected to the
mounting bracket. The vacuum pump (3) mounts to the bracket with two rubber insulated studs (1) to
reduce vibration, and the bracket mounts to the transmission with two bolts (2). The vacuum hose has
a quick-connect type end with a locking tab at the vacuum pump.
OPERATION
OPERATION
The Electric Vacuum Pump (EVP) system is installed to provide supplemental vacuum to the brake
booster when the engine vacuum supply is low. The vacuum pump is connected to the engine and
the brake booster through a series of hoses and one-way flow check valves. A pressure senor,
mounted in the brake booster, provides information to the Antilock Brake System (ABS) module, then
the vacuum level is sent over CAN to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM modulates the
EVP operation to maintain the brake booster vacuum within a given range. This system ensures that
the customer experiences a consistent brake pedal feel under all driving conditions.
A two wire electrical connector is used to supply power and ground for the vacuum pump. Operating
voltage is between 9V - 16V. Control of the vacuum pump is provided by the Powertrain Control
Module (PCM) using a low side driver to a normally open relay (coil side). The relay coil side power is
from a fuse in the under hood PDC. The switched power to the vacuum pump relay comes directly
from the battery through an inline fuse holder located in the engine compartment.
The PCM monitors the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor and when the signal indicates low
engine vacuum the PCM will cycle the vacuum pump as necessary to add vacuum to the power brake
booster. The vacuum hoses are connected between the vacuum pump, the engine manifold (for MAP
sensor signal), and the power brake booster vacuum sensor (on the brake booster). When the PCM
cycles the vacuum pump on, the PCM monitors the MAP sensor and if the vacuum signal does not
indicate a rising vacuum then DTCs will be set. Additionally the Antilock Brake System (ABS) module
monitors the vacuum at the brake booster vacuum sensor and DTCs will also set in the ABS module.
REMOVAL
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REMOVAL
Fig. 16: Electrical Connector, Harness Connector, Hose & Vacuum Pump
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
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Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
4. Remove the vacuum pump bracket bolts (2) and remove the vacuum pump assembly (3) from
the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
1. Position the vacuum pump assembly (3), install the bracket mounting bolts (2) and tighten to 55
N.m (41 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 19: Electrical Connector, Harness Connector, Hose & Vacuum Pump
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Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
2. Attach the harness connector to the bracket (4), and connect the electrical connector (1).
3. Connect the quick-connect vacuum hose (2) to the vacuum pump (3) and seat the locking tab.
4. Install the engine appearance cover.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 21: Brake Fluid Level Sensor Connection
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
The brake fluid level sensor (2) is an integral part of the master cylinder fluid reservoir (1). Refer to
RESERVOIR, BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER, INSTALLATION.
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL
DESCRIPTION
NON SRT
Four-wheel disc brakes are standard on this vehicle. There are two four-wheel disc brake systems
available, a standard and a premium. The standard disc brake system is referred to as "Seventeen-
Inch." The premium disc brake system is referred to as "Eighteen-Inch."
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Fig. 22: 17 Inch Brakes
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
"Seventeen-inch" four-wheel disc brakes (so called because they are designed to fit inside 17-inch
wheels) are standard on rear-wheel drive models with V6 engines. They feature single-piston
aluminum calipers (2) and vented rotors (1) in the front and single-piston aluminum calipers (4) with
solid rotors (3) in the rear.
"Eighteen-inch" four-wheel disc brakes (so called because they are designed to fit inside 18-inch
wheels) are standard on all international models and optional on other models. They feature twin-
piston aluminum calipers (1) and vented rotors (2) in the front and single-piston aluminum calipers (4)
with vented rotors (3) in the rear. Although the rear calipers appear the same as the 17-inch system,
the rear calipers used with this system feature a wider jaw to compensate for the wider, vented brake
rotors used.
Although the twin-piston caliper used is the same, Rear-Wheel-Drive (RWD) models mount the
caliper to the rear (trailing end) of the knuckle while All-Wheel-Drive (AWD) models mount the caliper
to the front (leading end) of the knuckle.
All calipers are aluminum construction and are the low-drag type. New-technology caliper
construction allows minimal drag of the pads on the discs with low clearance to the rotors to maintain
maximum pedal feel and responsiveness.
All calipers are anodized, giving them an off-black appearance. This coating offers corrosion
protection and a long-term neat appearance.
Phenolic pistons are used in all calipers. The premium twin caliper pistons have stainless steel caps
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for protection against damage due to contact with the brake pads.
All brake rotors are fully coated with Geomet™, a water-soluble, environmental friendly corrosion
preventive. Both the friction surfaces and the vents are coated. During initial brake applications of a
new rotor, the brake pads scrub the coating off the friction surfaces, ensuring that the remainder will
be rust free. Coating the vents also ensures that there will not be a loss of heat capacity over time.
SRT
SRT8 models utilize four-wheel disc brakes. All brake calipers (2) are four-piston opposed fixed
design manufactured by Brembo.
All brake rotors (3) are the internal vented type. There are no dust shields behind the front brake
rotors.
All SRT8 calipers mount directly to the knuckle. They do not use brake caliper adapters.
The SRT8 rear brake rotors have integrated parking brake drums like the standard rear disc brake
system.
Each front brake caliper features four 42 mm pistons, two in each outer half of the caliper. The two
outer halves of this caliper connect hydraulically using internal passageways. These calipers are not
serviceable. Do not attempt disassembly.
Each rear brake caliper features four pistons also, two in each half of the caliper. Each half has one
28 mm and one 32 mm piston. When mounted, the smaller size (28 mm) piston is located at the top
while the larger size (32 mm) piston is located at the bottom. The two halves of the caliper are
connected hydraulically by means of an external brake tube located on the bottom of the caliper
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assembly. Each caliper half has its own bleeder screw at the top and must be bled individually when
bleeding is required. These calipers are not serviceable. Do not attempt disassembly.
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
A junction block is used on vehicles that are not equipped with antilock brakes (ABS) allowing use of
the same brake tubes on all applications. The junction block is located in the engine compartment, in
front of the right wheel well. The junction block mounts in the same location as the ABS integrated
control unit (ICU) does on vehicles with ABS.
It has six threaded ports to which the brake tubes connect. Two are for the brake tubes coming from
the master cylinder. The remaining four ports are for the brake tubes going to each wheel brake
assembly.
The junction block contains a proportioning valve. The proportioning valve is not serviced separately
from the junction block.
OPERATION
OPERATION
The junction block distributes the brake fluid coming from the master cylinder primary and secondary
ports to the four brake tubes leading to the wheel brakes. Since the junction block mounts in the
same location as the ABS integrated control unit (ICU), it allows for the common use of brake tubes
on the vehicle whether it is equipped with or without ABS.
The junction block includes a rear brake proportioning valve. Placed in the fluid flow passages leading
to the rear brake tube ports, it balances front-to-rear braking.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 25: Disconnecting/Connecting Battery Cables
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable (2) from battery post.
2. Using a brake pedal holding tool, depress brake pedal past its first inch of travel and hold it in
this position. Holding pedal in this position will isolate master cylinder from hydraulic brake
system and will not allow brake fluid to drain out of brake fluid reservoir while brake lines are
open.
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Fig. 26: Junction Block & Brake Tubes
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Pull up on junction block (5) and remove from mounting grommets (8).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
1. Install junction block (5), pushing mounting bracket down into mounting grommets (8) located in
body of vehicle.
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Fig. 30: Rear Tubes AT Junction Block
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
2. Install brake tubes to rear (1 and 3) at hydraulic control unit. Tighten tube nuts to 20 N.m (177
in. lbs.) torque.
3. Install brake tubes (1, 2, 3 and 10) at junction block (5). Tighten tube nuts to 20 N.m (177 in.
lbs.) torque.
4. Remove brake pedal holding tool.
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Fig. 32: Disconnecting/Connecting Battery Cables
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Connect battery negative cable (2) to battery post. It is important that this is performed properly.
6. Fill and bleed (1) base brake hydraulic system. Refer to BASE BRAKE BLEEDING .
7. Road test vehicle to verify proper operation of brakes.
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POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
1. Connect a vacuum gauge to the booster check valve with a short length of hose and T-fitting.
2. Start and run the engine at curb idle for one minute.
3. Observe the vacuum supply. If the vacuum supply is less that 12 inches HG (406 millibars),
repair the vacuum supply.
4. Clamp the hose shut between the intake vacuum source and the check valve.
5. Stop the engine and observe the vacuum gauge.
6. If the vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33 millibars) within 15 seconds, the booster
diaphragm or check valve is faulty.
1. Remove the power booster check valve from the power booster.
2. Using a hand operated vacuum pump, apply 15-20 inches HG (508-677 millibars) vacuum at
the booster side of the check valve.
3. The vacuum should hold steady. If the gauge on the pump indicates vacuum loss, the check
valve is faulty and should be replaced.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 34: Disconnecting/Connecting Battery Cables
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
NOTE: The Electronic Stability Control (ESC) may also be referred to as Electronic
Stability Program (ESP) depending on the vehicle model year and configuration.
Certain components may also reference ESP, ESC, or use the traction control
symbol.
5. If equipped with MK25 and Electronic Stability Control (ESC), disconnect wiring harness (6)
connector at pedal travel sensor (7) on power brake booster (3).
6. If equipped with MK25 and ESC, disconnect wiring harness (6) connector at active brake
booster solenoid (4).
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Fig. 36: Vacuum Hose Connection
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
7. Disconnect vacuum hose (3) from check valve (2) on face of booster (1). Do not remove check
valve from booster.
Fig. 37: Locating Stop Lamp Switch And Pedal Rod
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
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Fig. 38: Booster & Pedal Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
BOOSTER - RHD
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Fig. 39: Disconnecting/Connecting Battery Cables
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
4. Disconnect wiring harness connector (4) from brake fluid level sensor (2) in master cylinder
brake fluid reservoir (1).
Fig. 41: Brake Tubes AT Master Cylinder
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Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Remove primary (3) and secondary (2) brake tubes from master cylinder (4). Install sealing
plugs in open brake tube outlet ports.
CAUTION: Before removing master cylinder from power brake vacuum booster,
master cylinder and vacuum booster must be thoroughly cleaned.
This must be done to prevent dirt particles from falling into power
brake vacuum booster. Use only Mopar® Brake Parts Cleaner or
equivalent.
6. Remove two nuts (2) attaching master cylinder (3) to power brake booster (1).
7. Slide master cylinder (3) straight out of power brake booster (1).
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Fig. 43: Vacuum Hose Connection - RHD
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
8. Disconnect vacuum hose (1) from check valve on face of booster (2). Do not remove check
valve from booster.
9. Remove driver side silencer under instrument panel. Refer to PANEL, SILENCER,
INSTALLATION .
10. Remove steering column opening cover. Refer to COVER, STEERING COLUMN OPENING,
INSTALLATION .
11. Remove stop lamp switch (2). Refer to SWITCH, STOP LAMP, REMOVAL .
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Fig. 45: View Of Pedal Retaining Clip
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: When removing booster push rod from brake pedal pin, be careful
not to damage rubber O-ring on pin.
12. Remove booster push rod from pin on brake pedal. To do so:
1. Position small screwdriver (1) between center tang on power brake booster brake pedal
pin retaining clip (4).
2. Rotate screwdriver enough to allow retaining clip center tang to pass over end of brake
pedal pin (3), then slide retaining clip off brake pedal pin.
3. Discard retaining clip. It is not to be reused. Install NEW retaining clip when
assembling.
13. Slide booster push rod (2) off brake pedal pin (3).
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Fig. 46: Booster And Pedal Mounting - RHD
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The Electronic Stability Control (ESC) may also be referred to as Electronic
Stability Program (ESP) depending on the vehicle model year and configuration.
Certain components may also reference ESP, ESC, or use the traction control
symbol.
cardiagn.com
Fig. 48: Booster & Pedal Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. Install power brake booster through opening between cross-brace and windshield. Guide
booster (1) push rod and mounting studs through dash panel (2).
2. Install four power brake booster mounting nuts (4). Tighten nuts to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
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Fig. 49: Locating Stop Lamp Switch And Pedal Rod
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
3. Slide booster push rod (5) onto brake pedal pin (4). Install NEW retaining clip (3) securing push
rod to brake pedal.
4. Install and adjust brake lamp switch (2). Refer to SWITCH, STOP LAMP, INSTALLATION .
5. Connect vacuum hose (3) to check valve (2) on face of booster (1). Do not remove check
valve from booster.
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Fig. 51: Identifying Master Cylinder Wiring Harness & Connectors
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
6. If equipped with MK25 and Electronic Stability Control (ESC), connect wiring harness (6)
connector at pedal travel sensor (7) on power brake booster (3).
7. If equipped with MK25 and ESC, connect wiring harness (6) connector at active brake booster
solenoid (4).
8. Install master cylinder (1). Refer to MASTER CYLINDER, BRAKE, INSTALLATION.
9. Install windshield wiper module and components removed to access. Refer to LINKAGE,
WIPER ARM, INSTALLATION .
BOOSTER - RHD
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Fig. 53: Booster Seal
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. Install a NEW booster seal (2) over push rod and mounting studs on rear of booster (1).
NOTE: Be sure to evenly tighten all four booster mounting nuts to specifications
or a vacuum leak can result.
3. Install four power brake booster mounting nuts (5). Tighten nuts to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: When installing booster push rod on brake pedal pin, be careful not
to damage rubber O-ring on pin.
4. Slide booster push rod onto brake pedal pin. Install NEW retaining clip securing push rod to
brake pedal.
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Fig. 55: Stop Lamp Switch Mounting - RHD
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Install and adjust brake lamp switch (2). Refer to SWITCH, STOP LAMP, INSTALLATION .
6. Install steering column opening cover. Refer to COVER, STEERING COLUMN OPENING,
INSTALLATION .
7. Install driver side silencer under instrument panel. Refer to PANEL, SILENCER,
INSTALLATION .
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Fig. 56: Vacuum Hose Connection - RHD
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
8. Connect vacuum hose (1) to check valve on face of booster (2). Do not remove check valve
from booster.
CAUTION: When replacing master cylinder on vehicle, a NEW vacuum seal (2)
MUST be installed on master cylinder.
9. Install NEW vacuum seal (1) on rear of master cylinder (2) making sure seal fits squarely in
mounting groove.
Fig. 58: Master Cylinder Mounting Nuts
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Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
10. Position master cylinder (3) on studs of power brake booster, aligning booster push rod with
master cylinder piston.
11. Install two master cylinder mounting nuts (1). Tighten mounting nuts to 15 N.m (133 in. lbs.).
12. Thread primary (3) and secondary (2) brake tubes into master cylinder primary and secondary
ports. Tighten tube nuts to 20 N.m (177 in. lbs.).
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Fig. 60: Brake Fluid Level Sensor Connection
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
13. Connect wiring harness connector (4) to brake fluid level sensor (2) mounted in brake fluid
reservoir (1).
14. Install windshield wiper module and components. Refer to LINKAGE, WIPER ARM,
INSTALLATION .
15. Connect battery negative cable (2) to battery post. It is important that this is performed properly.
16. Fill and bleed brakes as necessary.
17. Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of brakes.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 62: Disconnecting/Connecting Battery Cables
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable (2) from battery post.
2. Using a brake pedal holding tool, depress brake pedal past its first inch of travel and hold it in
this position. Holding pedal in this position will isolate master cylinder from hydraulic brake
system and will not allow brake fluid to drain out of brake fluid reservoir while brake lines are
open.
3. Raise and support vehicle. Refer to HOISTING, STANDARD PROCEDURE .
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Fig. 63: Tire And Wheel Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
4. Remove wheel mounting nuts (3), then tire and wheel assembly (1).
5. Remove banjo bolt (4) connecting flexible brake hose (5) to caliper (1). There are two sealing
washers (2, 3) (one one each side of hose fitting) that will come off when bolt is removed.
Discard these washers; use NEW washers upon installation.
CAUTION: When pushing pistons back into caliper bores, use only a trim stick
as shown in illustration or other suitable soft tool. Never use a
screwdriver or other metal pry bar due to potential damage to braking
surface of rotor, caliper, pistons or dust boots.
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Fig. 65: Pushing Back Pistons In Bore
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
6. Place trim stick (4) between brake pad (2) and outer edge of rotor (3).
7. Using trim stick, slowly apply pressure against brake pad (2) until both pistons (on that side of
caliper) are completely bottomed in bores of caliper half.
NOTE: Repeat above procedure to opposite brake pad (1) and pistons as
necessary.
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Fig. 66: Exploded View Of Front Disc Brakes - Srt-8
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Always inspect brake pads before installing disc brake caliper and replace
as necessary. Refer to INSPECTION .
1. Completely retract caliper pistons back into bores of caliper. Use hand pressure or a C-clamp
may also be used to retract pistons, first placing a wood block or used brake pad (not to be
reused) over pistons before installing C-clamp to avoid damaging piston.
2. If brake pads need to be installed in caliper before installation. Refer to PADS, BRAKE, SRT8,
INSTALLATION or PADS, BRAKE, FRONT, INSTALLATION or PADS, BRAKE, REAR,
INSTALLATION.
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Fig. 67: Exploded View Of Front Disc Brakes - Srt-8
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
3. Slide caliper with pads (2) over brake rotor (3) and align with knuckle (8).
4. Install caliper mounting bolts (1). Tighten bolts to 190 N.m (140 ft. lbs.) torque.
5. Install banjo bolt (4) attaching brake hose (5) to caliper (1). Install NEW washers (2, 3) on each
side of hose fitting as banjo bolt is placed through banjo fitting. Thread banjo bolt into caliper
and tighten to 33 N.m (24 ft. lbs.) torque.
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Fig. 69: Tire And Wheel Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
6. Install tire and wheel assembly (1). Tighten wheel mounting nuts (3) to 150 N.m (110 ft. lbs.)
torque. Refer to INSTALLATION .
7. Lower vehicle.
8. Remove brake pedal holding tool.
9. Connect battery negative cable (2) to battery post. It is important that this is performed properly.
Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
Fig. 71: Bleeding Brakes
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
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10. Bleed (1) the area of repair for the brake system. If a proper pedal is not felt during bleeding
an area of repair then a base bleed system must be performed. Refer to BASE BRAKE
BLEEDING .
CAUTION: If NEW brake pads have been installed, keep in mind that braking
effectiveness might be somewhat reduced during the first brake
applications.
11. Road test vehicle making several stops to wear off any foreign material on brakes and to seat
brake pads. If NEW brake pads are installed, they need to be properly burnished. Refer to
PADS, BRAKE, SRT8, STANDARD PROCEDURE.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable (2) from battery post.
2. Using a brake pedal holding tool, depress brake pedal past its first inch of travel and hold it in
this position. Holding pedal in this position will isolate master cylinder from hydraulic brake
system and will not allow brake fluid to drain out of brake fluid reservoir while brake lines are
open.
3. Raise and support vehicle. Refer to HOISTING, STANDARD PROCEDURE .
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Fig. 74: Rear Flex Hose Connection - Srt8
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Remove banjo bolt (1) connecting flexible brake hose (5) to caliper (4). There are two sealing
washers (2, 3) (one one each side of hose fitting) that will come off when bolt is removed.
Discard these washers; install NEW washers on installation.
CAUTION: When pushing pistons back into caliper bores, use only a trim stick
as shown in illustration or other suitable soft tool. Never use a
screwdriver or other metal pry bar due to potential damage to braking
surface of rotor, caliper, pistons or dust boots.
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Fig. 75: Pushing Back Pistons In Bore
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
6. Place trim stick (4) between brake pad (2) and outer edge of rotor (3).
7. Using trim stick, slowly apply pressure against brake pad (2) until both pistons (on that side of
caliper) are completely bottomed in bores of caliper half.
NOTE: Repeat above procedure to opposite brake pad (1) and pistons as
necessary.
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Fig. 77: Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Always inspect brake pads before installing disc brake caliper and replace
as necessary. Refer to INSPECTION .
1. Completely retract caliper pistons back into bores of caliper. Use hand pressure or a C-clamp
may also be used to retract pistons, first placing a wood block or used brake pad (not to be
reused) over piston before installing C-clamp to avoid damaging piston.
2. If brake pads need to be installed in caliper before installation. Refer to PADS, BRAKE, SRT8,
INSTALLATION or PADS, BRAKE, FRONT, INSTALLATION or PADS, BRAKE, REAR,
INSTALLATION.
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Fig. 78: Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
3. Slide caliper with pads (2) over brake rotor and align with knuckle.
4. Install caliper mounting bolts (1). Tighten bolts to 130 N.m (96 ft. lbs.) torque.
5. Remove jack from under spring link.
6. Install banjo bolt (1) attaching brake hose (5) to caliper (4). Install NEW washers (2, 3) on each
side of hose fitting as banjo bolt is placed through banjo fitting. Thread banjo bolt into caliper
and tighten to 33 N.m (24 ft. lbs.) torque.
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Fig. 80: Tire And Wheel Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
7. Install tire and wheel assembly (1). Tighten wheel mounting nuts (3) to 150 N.m (110 ft. lbs.)
torque. Refer to INSTALLATION .
8. Lower vehicle.
9. Remove brake pedal holding tool.
10. Connect battery negative cable (2) to battery post. It is important that this is performed properly.
Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
Fig. 82: Bleeding Brakes
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
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11. Bleed (1) the area of repair for the brake system. If a proper pedal is not felt during bleeding
an area of repair then a base bleed system must be performed. Refer to BASE BRAKE
BLEEDING .
CAUTION: If NEW brake pads have been installed, keep in mind that braking
effectiveness might be somewhat reduced during the first brake
applications.
12. Road test vehicle making several stops to wear off any foreign material on brakes and to seat
brake pads. If NEW brake pads are installed, they need to be properly burnished. Refer to
PADS, BRAKE, SRT8, STANDARD PROCEDURE.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable (2) from battery post.
2. Using a brake pedal holding tool, depress brake pedal past its first inch of travel and hold it in
this position. Holding pedal in this position will isolate master cylinder from hydraulic brake
system and will not allow brake fluid to drain out of brake fluid reservoir while brake lines are
open.
3. Raise and support vehicle. Refer to HOISTING, STANDARD PROCEDURE .
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Fig. 85: Flex Hose Connection AT Rear Caliper
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Remove banjo bolt (4) connecting flexible brake hose (3) to caliper (1). There are two sealing
washers (2) (one one each side of hose fitting) that will come off when bolt is removed. Discard
these washers; install NEW washers on installation.
6. While holding guide pins from turning, remove caliper guide pin bolts (2).
7. Remove brake caliper (1) from brake adapter (3) and pads.
DISASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: Before disassembling brake caliper, clean and inspect it. Refer to INSPECTION
and CLEANING . .
WARNING: Under no condition should high pressure air ever be used to remove a
piston from a caliper bore. Personal injury could result from such a
practice.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when clamping caliper in vise. Excessive vise
pressure will cause bore distortion.
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Fig. 87: Rear Caliper In Vise
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
WARNING: Do not place face or hands near caliper and piston if using
compressed air pressure to remove piston. Do not use high
pressure.
4. Apply low pressure compressed air to caliper fluid inlet in short spurts to ease piston out of
bore.
5. Remove piston from caliper (1).
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Fig. 88: Removing Rear Caliper Dust Boot
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: When working on disc brake caliper, always use care and suitable
tools to avoid damaging the aluminum housing.
6. Using a suitable tool (1), carefully remove dust boot (2) and discard it.
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Fig. 89: Removing Rear Caliper Piston Seal
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: Do not use a screw driver or other metal tool for seal removal. Using
such tools can scratch bore or leave burrs on seal groove edges.
7. Using a soft tool such as a plastic trim stick (2), work piston seal (1) out of its groove in caliper
piston bore. Discard used seal.
NOTE: It is not recommended to hone caliper bore. The anodized coating would be
compromised.
CLEANING
CLEANING
WARNING: Chrysler LLC does not manufacture any vehicles or replacement parts
that contain asbestos. Aftermarket products may or may not contain
asbestos. Refer to aftermarket product packaging for product information.
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Whether the product contains asbestos or not, dust and dirt can
accumulate on brake parts during normal use. Follow practices
prescribed by appropriate regulations for the handling, processing and
disposing of dust and debris.
To clean or flush the internal passages of the brake caliper, use fresh brake fluid or Mopar® Non-
Chlorinated Brake Parts Cleaner. Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol, oil, transmission fluid or any
fluid containing mineral oil to clean the caliper. These fluids will damage rubber cups and seals.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
If caliper fails inspection, disassemble and recondition caliper, replacing the seals and dust boots or
replace caliper.
ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Dirt, oil, and solvents can damage caliper seals. Ensure assembly area is
clean and dry.
NOTE: Always use new, clean Mopar® DOT 3 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid or equivalent
when assembling brake caliper.
NOTE: Never use used or old piston seals or boots for reassembly.
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Fig. 91: Installing Rear Caliper Piston Seal
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. Lubricate caliper piston, piston seal (1) and piston bore (2) with clean, fresh brake fluid.
2. Install NEW piston seal (1) in groove of caliper bore (2). Seal should be started at one area of
groove and gently worked around and into the groove using only your clean fingers to seat it.
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Fig. 93: Installing Piston In Rear Caliper
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
4. Install piston (1) into caliper piston (2) bore, pressing piston down to bottom of bore using hand-
pressure. Using a piece of wood or wooden hammer handle may also suffice as long as piston
and boot damage can be avoided.
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Fig. 95: Installing Dust Boot Using Tool
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Seat dust boot (3) in caliper counterbore using Installer, Special Tool (special tool #9314,
Installer, Dust Boot), with Handle, Special Tool (special tool #C-4171, Driver Handle, Universal).
Install dust boot until it bottoms. Do not over-seat dust boot or damage will occur.
Fig. 96: Rear Caliper Bleeder Screw
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
6. Install bleeder screw in correct threaded hole. Caliper housing is not side-specific, so it is
important to install bleeder screw in threaded hole that will be uppermost once caliper is
installed on vehicle. Tighten bleeder screw to 15 N.m (125 in. lbs.) torque.
7. Install caliper on vehicle. Refer to CALIPER, DISC BRAKE, FRONT SRT8, INSTALLATION or
CALIPER, DISC BRAKE, REAR SRT8, INSTALLATION or CALIPER, DISC BRAKE, REAR,
INSTALLATION or CALIPER, DISC BRAKE, SINGLE PISTON, INSTALLATION or CALIPER,
DISC BRAKE, TWIN PISTON, INSTALLATION.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Always inspect brake pads before installing disc brake caliper and replace
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as necessary. Refer to INSPECTION .
CAUTION: Use care when installing caliper onto disc brake adapter to avoid
damaging boots on caliper guide pins.
1. Completely retract caliper piston back into bore of caliper. Use hand pressure or a C-clamp may
be used to retract piston, first placing a wood block over piston before installing C-clamp to
avoid damaging piston.
2. Push caliper guide pins into caliper adapter to clear caliper mounting bosses when installing.
CAUTION: Extreme caution should be taken not to crossthread caliper guide pin
bolts (2) when they are installed.
NOTE: Before installing caliper guide pin bolts, clean guide pin bolt threads and
apply Mopar® Lock AND Seal Adhesive or equivalent.
4. Align caliper mounting holes with guide pins, then install guide pin bolts (2). While holding guide
pins from turning, tighten bolts to 31 N.m (23 ft. lbs.).
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Fig. 98: Flex Hose Connection AT Rear Caliper
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Install banjo bolt (4) attaching brake hose (3) to caliper (1). Install NEW washers (2) on each
side of hose fitting as banjo bolt is placed through fitting. Thread banjo bolt into caliper and
tighten to 50 N.m (37 ft. lbs.).
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Fig. 99: Tire And Wheel Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
9. Connect battery negative cable (2) to battery post. It is important that this is performed properly.
Fig. 101: Bleeding Brakes
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
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10. Bleed (1) the area of repair for the brake system. If a proper pedal is not felt during bleeding
an area of repair then a base bleed system must be performed. Refer to BASE BRAKE
BLEEDING .
11. Road test vehicle making several stops to wear off any foreign material on brakes and to seat
brake shoes.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable (2) from battery post.
2. Using a brake pedal holding tool, depress brake pedal past its first inch of travel and hold it in
this position. Holding pedal in this position will isolate master cylinder from hydraulic brake
system and will not allow brake fluid to drain out of brake fluid reservoir while brake lines are
open.
3. Raise and support vehicle. Refer to HOISTING, STANDARD PROCEDURE .
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Fig. 104: Front Brake Flex Hose AT Caliper
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Remove banjo bolt (6) connecting flexible brake hose (1) to caliper (5). There are two sealing
washers (7) (one one each side of hose fitting) that will come off when bolt is removed. Discard
these washers; install NEW washers on installation.
6. While holding guide pins from turning, remove caliper guide pin bolts (2).
7. Remove brake caliper (1) from brake adapter (3) and pads.
DISASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: Before disassembling brake caliper, clean and inspect it. Refer to INSPECTION
and CLEANING . .
WARNING: Under no condition should high pressure air ever be used to remove a
piston from a caliper bore. Personal injury could result from such a
practice.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when clamping caliper in vise. Excessive vise
pressure will cause bore distortion.
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1. Drain brake fluid from caliper.
WARNING: Do not place face or hands near caliper and piston if using
compressed air pressure to remove piston. Do not use high
pressure.
4. Apply low pressure compressed air to caliper fluid inlet in short spurts to ease piston out of
bore.
5. Remove piston from caliper (1).
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Fig. 107: Removing Rear Caliper Dust Boot
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: When working on disc brake caliper, always use care and suitable
tools to avoid damaging the aluminum housing.
6. Using a suitable tool (1), carefully remove dust boot (2) and discard it.
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Fig. 108: Removing Rear Caliper Piston Seal
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: Do not use a screw driver or other metal tool for seal removal. Using
such tools can scratch bore or leave burrs on seal groove edges.
7. Using a soft tool such as a plastic trim stick (2), work piston seal (1) out of its groove in caliper
piston bore. Discard used seal.
NOTE: It is not recommended to hone caliper bore. The anodized coating would be
compromised.
CLEANING
CLEANING
WARNING: Chrysler does not manufacture any vehicles or replacement parts that
contain asbestos. Aftermarket products may or may not contain asbestos.
Refer to aftermarket product packaging for product information.
cardiagn.com
Whether the product contains asbestos or not, dust and dirt can
accumulate on brake parts during normal use. Follow practices
prescribed by appropriate regulations for the handling, processing and
disposing of dust and debris.
To clean or flush the internal passages of the brake caliper, use fresh brake fluid or Mopar® Non-
Chlorinated Brake Parts Cleaner. Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol, oil, transmission fluid or any
fluid containing mineral oil to clean the caliper. These fluids will damage rubber cups and seals.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
If caliper fails inspection, disassemble and recondition caliper, replacing the seals and dust boots or
replace caliper.
ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Dirt, oil, and solvents can damage caliper seals. Ensure assembly area is
clean and dry.
NOTE: Always use new, clean Mopar® DOT 3 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid or equivalent
when assembling brake caliper.
NOTE: Never use used or old piston seals or boots for reassembly.
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Fig. 110: Installing Rear Caliper Piston Seal
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. Lubricate caliper piston, piston seal (1) and piston bore (2) with clean, fresh brake fluid.
2. Install NEW piston seal (1) in groove of caliper bore (2). Seal should be started at one area of
groove and gently worked around and into the groove using only your clean fingers to seat it.
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Fig. 112: Installing Piston In Rear Caliper
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
4. Install piston (1) into caliper piston (2) bore, pressing piston down to bottom of bore using hand-
pressure. Using a piece of wood or wooden hammer handle may also suffice as long as piston
and boot damage can be avoided. The dust boot will not seat at this time. Refer to
following step.
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Fig. 114: Rear Caliper Bleeder Screw
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
6. Install bleeder screw in correct threaded hole. Caliper housing is not side-specific, so it is
important to install bleeder screw in threaded hole that will be uppermost once caliper is
installed on vehicle. Tighten bleeder screw to 15 N.m (125 in. lbs.) torque.
7. Install caliper on vehicle. Refer to CALIPER, DISC BRAKE, FRONT SRT8, INSTALLATION or
CALIPER, DISC BRAKE, REAR SRT8, INSTALLATION or CALIPER, DISC BRAKE, REAR,
INSTALLATION or CALIPER, DISC BRAKE, SINGLE PISTON, INSTALLATION or CALIPER,
DISC BRAKE, TWIN PISTON, INSTALLATION.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Always inspect brake pads before installing disc brake caliper and replace
as necessary. Refer to INSPECTION .
CAUTION: Use care when installing caliper onto disc brake adapter to avoid
damaging boots on caliper guide pins.
1. Completely retract caliper piston back into bore of caliper. Use hand pressure or a C-clamp may
be used to retract piston, first placing a wood block over piston before installing C-clamp to
avoid damaging piston.
2. Push caliper guide pins into caliper adapter to clear caliper mounting bosses when installing.
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Fig. 115: Front Caliper Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
3. Slide caliper over brake pads and onto caliper adapter (3).
CAUTION: Extreme caution should be taken not to crossthread caliper guide pin
bolts (2) when they are installed.
4. Align caliper mounting holes with guide pins, then install guide pin bolts (2). While holding guide
pins from turning, tighten bolts to 60 N.m (44 ft. lbs.).
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Fig. 117: Tire And Wheel Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
6. Install tire and wheel assembly (1). Tighten wheel mounting nuts (3) to 150 N.m (110 ft. lbs.).
Refer to INSTALLATION .
7. Lower vehicle.
8. Remove brake pedal holding tool.
9. Connect battery negative cable (2) to battery post. It is important that this is performed properly.
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Fig. 119: Bleeding Brakes
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
10. Bleed (1) the area of repair for the brake system. If a proper pedal is not felt during bleeding
an area of repair then a base bleed system must be performed. Refer to BASE BRAKE
BLEEDING .
11. Road test vehicle making several stops to wear off any foreign material on brakes and to seat
brake shoes.
REMOVAL
ALL-WHEEL-DRIVE
1. Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable (2) from battery post.
2. Using a brake pedal holding tool, depress brake pedal past its first inch of travel and hold it in
this position. Holding pedal in this position will isolate master cylinder from hydraulic brake
system and will not allow brake fluid to drain out of brake fluid reservoir while brake lines are
open.
3. Raise and support vehicle. Refer to HOISTING, STANDARD PROCEDURE .
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Fig. 122: Front Brake Flex Hose AT Caliper - AWD
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Remove banjo bolt (3) connecting flexible brake hose (1) to caliper (4). There are two sealing
washers (2) (one one each side of hose fitting) that will come off when bolt is removed. Discard
these washers; install NEW washers on installation.
6. While holding guide pins from turning, remove caliper guide pin bolts (1).
7. Remove brake caliper (3) from brake adapter (2) and pads.
REAR-WHEEL-DRIVE
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Fig. 124: Disconnecting/Connecting Battery Cables
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable (2) from battery post.
2. Using a brake pedal holding tool, depress brake pedal past its first inch of travel and hold it in
this position. Holding pedal in this position will isolate master cylinder from hydraulic brake
system and will not allow brake fluid to drain out of brake fluid reservoir while brake lines are
open.
3. Raise and support vehicle. Refer to HOISTING, STANDARD PROCEDURE .
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Fig. 125: Tire And Wheel Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
4. Remove wheel mounting nuts (3), then tire and wheel assembly (1).
5. Remove banjo bolt (6) connecting flexible brake hose (1) to caliper (5). There are two sealing
washers (7) (one one each side of hose fitting) that will come off when bolt is removed. Discard
these washers; install NEW washers on installation.
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Fig. 127: Front Caliper Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
6. While holding guide pins from turning, remove caliper guide pin bolts (2).
7. Remove brake caliper (1) from brake adapter (3) and pads.
DISASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: Before disassembling the brake caliper, clean and inspect it. Refer to
INSPECTION and CLEANING . .
WARNING: Under no condition should high pressure air ever be used to remove a
piston from a caliper bore. Personal injury could result from such
practice.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when clamping caliper (2) in vise. Caliper
housing is made of aluminum. Excessive vise pressure will cause
bore distortion.
WARNING: Do not place face or hands near caliper and piston if using
compressed air to remove piston. Do not use high pressure.
WARNING: Never attempt to catch piston as it leaves bore. This could result in
personal injury.
CAUTION: Do not blow piston out of bore with sustained air pressure. This
could result in a cracked piston. Use only short spurts of air.
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6. Apply short spurts of low pressure air with a rubber tipped blow gun through caliper brake
hose port. Use only enough air pressure to ease piston out of bore.
7. Remove piston from caliper (2).
8. Remove C-clamp and block of wood.
9. C-clamp (1) the block of wood (3) over dust boot of first piston removed. This will seal empty
piston bore.
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Fig. 131: Padded Block In Front Of Piston 1
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
10. Move padded piece of wood (1) in front of piston (2) yet to be removed.
11. Remove second piston using same procedure with short spurts of low pressure air .
12. Remove C-clamp and block of wood from caliper.
13. Remove piston dust boots (1) (over each bore) with an appropriate pry tool (2). Use care not to
damage aluminum housing.
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Fig. 133: Removing Piston Seals
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: Use an appropriate tool (1) to remove piston seals (2) to avoid
scratching piston bore. Do not use a screwdriver or other metal tool
to remove seals.
14. Using a soft tool such as a plastic trim stick (1), remove piston seals (2) from caliper bores.
15. Remove caliper bleeder screw (2) from caliper housing (1).
16. Clean piston bore and drilled passage ways with alcohol or a suitable solvent. Wipe it dry using
only a lint-free cloth.
17. Inspect both piston and bore for scoring or pitting.
NOTE: It is not recommended to hone caliper bore. The anodized coating would be
compromised.
CLEANING
CLEANING
WARNING: Chrysler does not manufacture any vehicles or replacement parts that
contain asbestos. Aftermarket products may or may not contain asbestos.
Refer to aftermarket product packaging for product information.
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Whether the product contains asbestos or not, dust and dirt can
accumulate on brake parts during normal use. Follow practices
prescribed by appropriate regulations for the handling, processing and
disposing of dust and debris.
To clean or flush the internal passages of the brake caliper, use fresh brake fluid or Mopar® Non-
Chlorinated Brake Parts Cleaner. Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol, oil, transmission fluid or any
fluid containing mineral oil to clean the caliper. These fluids will damage rubber cups and seals.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
If caliper fails inspection, disassemble and recondition caliper, replacing the seals and dust boots or
replace caliper.
ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Dirt, oil, and solvents can damage caliper seals. Ensure assembly area is
clean and dry.
NOTE: Always use new, clean Mopar® DOT 3 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid when
assembling brake caliper.
NOTE: Never use old or used piston seals or boots for assembly.
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Fig. 135: Installing Piston Seals
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. Lubricate caliper pistons, piston seals (1) and piston bores (2) with clean, fresh brake fluid.
2. Install NEW piston seal (1) into groove of each caliper piston bore (2).
NOTE: Make sure seal is fully seated and not twisted in groove.
Fig. 136: Installing Boot On Caliper Piston
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
3. Install NEW boot (1) on each piston (2) and work boot lip into groove at top of piston. Stretch
boot rearward straightening boot folds, then move boot forward as necessary until folds snap
uniformly into place.
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Fig. 137: Installing Pistons In Caliper
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
4. Install each piston (1), one at a time, into its caliper piston (2) bore, pressing piston down to
bottom of bore using hand-pressure. Using a piece of wood or wooden hammer handle may
also suffice as long as piston and boot damage is avoided.
Fig. 138: Measuring Dust Boot Heights
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: When seating dust boots in following step, use care not to over-
install boots or damage will occur. Each boot (2) will bottom in the
counterbore before the top of the boot reaches the surface of the
caliper. The boot will bottom with approximately 2 mm (1/16 inch) (3)
of boot still showing above caliper housing.
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Fig. 139: Seat dust boots, Installer & Handle
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Seat dust boots (3) in caliper counterbores using Installer (special tool #9315, Installer, Dust
Boot) (2) with Handle (special tool #C-4171, Driver Handle, Universal) (1). Install each dust boot
until it bottoms. Do not over-seat dust boot or damage will occur.
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Fig. 140: Twin Piston Caliper Bleeder Screw
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
6. Install caliper bleeder screw (2) in caliper housing (1). Tighten bleeder screw to 15 N.m (125 in.
lbs.) torque.
7. Install caliper on vehicle. Refer to CALIPER, DISC BRAKE, FRONT SRT8, INSTALLATION or
CALIPER, DISC BRAKE, REAR SRT8, INSTALLATION or CALIPER, DISC BRAKE, REAR,
INSTALLATION or CALIPER, DISC BRAKE, SINGLE PISTON, INSTALLATION or CALIPER,
DISC BRAKE, TWIN PISTON, INSTALLATION.
INSTALLATION
ALL-WHEEL-DRIVE
CAUTION: Always inspect brake pads before installing disc brake caliper and replace
as necessary. Refer to INSPECTION .
CAUTION: Use care when installing caliper onto disc brake adapter to avoid
damaging boots on caliper guide pins.
1. Completely retract caliper pistons back into bores of caliper. Use hand pressure or a C-clamp
may also be used to retract pistons, first placing a wood block over piston before installing C-
clamp to avoid damaging piston.
2. Push caliper guide pins into caliper adapter to clear caliper mounting bosses when installing.
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Fig. 141: Front Caliper Mounting - AWD
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
3. Slide caliper (3) over brake pads and onto caliper adapter (2).
CAUTION: Extreme caution should be taken not to crossthread caliper guide pin
bolts (1) when they are installed.
4. Align caliper mounting holes with guide pins, then install guide pin bolts (1). While holding guide
pins from turning, tighten bolts to 60 N.m (44 ft. lbs.).
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Fig. 143: Tire And Wheel Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
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Fig. 145: Bleeding Brakes
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
10. Bleed (1) the area of repair for the brake system. If a proper pedal is not felt during bleeding
an area of repair then a base bleed system must be performed. Refer to BASE BRAKE
BLEEDING .
11. Road test vehicle making several stops to wear off any foreign material on brakes and to seat
brake shoes.
REAR-WHEEL-DRIVE
CAUTION: Always inspect brake pads before installing disc brake caliper and replace
as necessary. Refer to INSPECTION .
CAUTION: Use care when installing caliper onto disc brake adapter to avoid
damaging boots on caliper guide pins.
1. Completely retract caliper pistons back into bores of caliper. Use hand pressure or a C-clamp
may also be used to retract pistons, first placing a wood block over piston before installing C-
clamp to avoid damaging piston.
2. Push caliper guide pins into caliper adapter to clear caliper mounting bosses when installing.
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Fig. 146: Front Caliper Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
3. Slide caliper over brake pads and onto caliper adapter (3).
CAUTION: Extreme caution should be taken not to crossthread caliper guide pin
bolts (2) when they are installed.
4. Align caliper mounting holes with guide pins, then install guide pin bolts (2). While holding guide
pins from turning, tighten bolts to 60 N.m (44 ft. lbs.).
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Fig. 148: Tire And Wheel Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
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Fig. 150: Bleeding Brakes
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
10. Bleed (1) the area of repair for the brake system. If a proper pedal is not felt during bleeding
an area of repair then a base bleed system must be performed . Refer to BASE BRAKE
BLEEDING .
11. Road test vehicle making several stops to wear off any foreign material on brakes and to seat
brake shoes.
FLUID
Swollen rubber parts indicate the presence of petroleum in the brake fluid.
To test for contamination, put a small amount of drained brake fluid in clear glass jar. If fluid
separates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid contamination of the brake fluid.
If brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thoroughly flush system. Replace master cylinder,
proportioning valve, caliper seals, wheel cylinder seals, Antilock Brake hydraulic unit and all hydraulic
fluid hoses.
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform to DOT 3 specifications and SAE J1703 standards.
No other type of brake fluid is recommended or approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use
only Mopar® Brake Fluid DOT 3 Motor Vehicle or equivalent from a tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid from an container which has been
left open. An open container of brake fluid will absorb moisture from the
air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based fluid in the brake hydraulic
system. Use of such type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the vehicle brake system.
Petroleum based fluids would be items such as engine oil, transmission
fluid, power steering fluid, etc.
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform to DOT 3 specifications and SAE J1703 standards.
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If DOT 3 brake fluid is not available, brake fluid conforming to DOT 4 specifications may be used in its
place. The fluids are compatible, but DOT 4 usage may require additional fluid maintenance. No other
type of brake fluid is recommended or approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use only
Mopar® Brake Fluid DOT 3 Motor Vehicle or equivalent from a tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid from an container which has been
left open. An open container of brake fluid will absorb moisture from the
air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based fluid in the brake hydraulic
system. Use of such type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the vehicle brake system.
Petroleum based fluids would be items such as engine oil, transmission
fluid, power steering fluid, etc.
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 151: Primary And Secondary Ports
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Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
The master cylinder has a cast aluminum housing with a top mounted reservoir. The dual outlet port
design housing features a primary port (1) machined for 8 mm (5/16 inch) tubing and a secondary
port (2) machined for 6.25 mm (1/4 inch) tubing.
1. Start the engine and check the booster vacuum hose connections. A hissing noise indicates a
vacuum leak. Correct any vacuum leaks before proceeding.
2. Stop the engine and pump the brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in the booster is depleted.
3. Press and hold the brake pedal under light foot pressure. The pedal should hold firm. If the
pedal falls away, there may be an external leak or the master cylinder is faulty (internal
leakage).
4. Start the engine and note pedal action. It should fall away slightly under light foot pressure, then
hold firm. If no pedal action is discernible, the power booster, vacuum supply or vacuum check
valve is faulty, proceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
5. If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST passes, rebuild the booster vacuum reserve as
follows: Release the brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500 RPM, close the throttle and
immediately turn off the ignition to stop the engine.
6. Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake action again. The booster should provide two or
more vacuum assisted pedal applications. If the vacuum assist is not provided, the booster is
faulty.
1. Remove the power booster check valve from the power booster.
2. Using a hand operated vacuum pump, apply 15-20 inches HG (508-677 millibars) vacuum at
the booster side of the check valve.
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3. The vacuum should hold steady. If the gauge on the pump indicates vacuum loss, the check
valve is faulty and should be replaced.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
CAUTION: When clamping master cylinder in vise, only clamp master cylinder by its
mounting flange. Do not clamp master cylinder piston rod, reservoir, seal
or body.
NOTE: Bleeder Adapters (special tool #9748-1, Adapter, Bleeder) and (special tool
#9748-2, Adapter, Bleeder) are not interchangeable. To avoid mix-up,
Bleeder Adapter (special tool #9748-1, Adapter, Bleeder) is silver while
Bleeder Adapter (special tool #9748-2, Adapter, Bleeder) is black.
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Adapter. Tighten each tube to 14 N.m (124 in. lbs.). Flex each bleeder tube and place
open end into mouth of fluid reservoir as far down as possible.
NOTE: Make sure open ends of bleeder tubes stay below surface of brake fluid
once reservoir is filled to proper level.
3. Fill brake fluid reservoir (1) to the MAX level with Mopar® brake fluid or equivalent conforming
to DOT 3 specifications. Make sure fluid level is above tips of bleeder tubes in reservoir to
ensure no air is ingested during bleeding.
Fig. 154: Bleeding Tools On Master Cylinder
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Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
4. Using a wooden dowel as a pushrod (1), slowly depress master cylinder pistons, then release
pressure, allowing pistons to return to released position. Repeat several times until all air
bubbles are expelled. Make sure fluid level stays above tips of bleeder tubes in reservoir while
bleeding.
5. Remove bleeder tubes (2) and adapters (3, 4) from master cylinder outlet ports, then plug outlet
ports and install fill cap on reservoir.
6. Remove master cylinder from vise.
7. Install master cylinder on vehicle. Refer to MASTER CYLINDER, BRAKE, INSTALLATION.
REMOVAL
MASTER CYLINDER
CAUTION: Vacuum in power brake booster must be pumped down (removed) before
removing master cylinder from power brake booster. This is necessary to
prevent power brake booster from sucking in any contamination as master
cylinder is removed. This can be done simply by pumping brake pedal,
with vehicle's engine not running, until a firm feeling brake pedal is
achieved.
1. With engine not running, pump brake pedal until a firm pedal is achieved (4-5 strokes).
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Fig. 155: Disconnecting/Connecting Battery Cables
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
2. Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable (2) from battery post.
3. Remove access panel (1) in cowl area to expose master cylinder (2).
4. Thoroughly clean all surfaces of brake fluid reservoir and master cylinder. Use only Mopar®
Brake Parts Cleaner or equivalent.
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Fig. 157: Brake Fluid Level Sensor Connection
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Disconnect wiring harness connector (4) from brake fluid level sensor (2) in master cylinder
brake fluid reservoir (1).
6. Disconnect primary (3) and secondary (2) brake tubes from master cylinder (4). Install sealing
plugs in open brake tube outlet ports.
Fig. 159: Master Cylinder Mounting Nuts
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Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: Before removing master cylinder from power brake vacuum booster,
master cylinder and vacuum booster must be thoroughly cleaned.
This must be done to prevent dirt particles from falling into power
brake vacuum booster. Use only Mopar® Brake Parts Cleaner or
equivalent.
7. Remove two nuts (2) attaching master cylinder (3) to power brake booster (1).
8. Slide master cylinder (3) straight out of power brake booster (1).
9. Remove vacuum seal (1) located on mounting flange of master cylinder (2). Vacuum seal is
removed by carefully pulling it off rear of master cylinder. Do not attempt to pry seal off
master cylinder by inserting a sharp tool between seal and master cylinder casting.
Damage can occur.
CAUTION: Vacuum in power brake booster must be pumped down (removed) before
removing master cylinder from power brake booster. This is necessary to
prevent power brake booster from sucking in any contamination as master
cylinder is removed. This can be done simply by pumping brake pedal,
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with vehicle's engine not running, until a firm feeling brake pedal is
achieved.
1. With engine not running, pump brake pedal until a firm pedal is achieved (4-5 strokes).
2. Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable (2) from battery post.
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Fig. 162: Cowl Access Panel - RHD
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Remove purge solenoid (1) from mount (2) and move it to side leaving hoses and wiring
connected.
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Fig. 164: Brake Fluid Level Sensor Connection
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
6. Disconnect wiring harness connector (4) from brake fluid level sensor (2) in master cylinder
brake fluid reservoir (1).
7. Remove primary (3) and secondary (2) brake tubes from master cylinder (4). Install sealing
plugs in open brake tube outlet ports.
Fig. 166: Master Cylinder Mounting Nuts
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Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: Before removing master cylinder from power brake vacuum booster,
master cylinder and vacuum booster must be thoroughly cleaned.
This must be done to prevent dirt particles from falling into power
brake vacuum booster. Use only Mopar® Brake Parts Cleaner or
equivalent.
8. Remove two nuts (2) attaching master cylinder (3) to power brake booster (1).
9. Slide master cylinder (3) straight out of power brake booster (1).
10. Remove vacuum seal (1) located on mounting flange of master cylinder (2). Vacuum seal is
removed by carefully pulling it off rear of master cylinder. Do not attempt to pry seal off
master cylinder by inserting a sharp tool between seal and master cylinder casting.
Damage can occur.
DISASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY
1. Clean master cylinder housing and brake fluid reservoir. Use only Mopar® Brake Parts Cleaner
or equivalent.
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Fig. 168: Fluid Reservoir Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
2. Remove brake fluid reservoir cap (1). Using a syringe or equivalent type tool, empty as much
brake fluid as possible from the reservoir.
CAUTION: When removing fluid reservoir from the master cylinder, do not pry
off using any type of tool. This can damage the fluid reservoir or
master cylinder housing.
5. Remove two brake fluid reservoir seal grommets (2) from master cylinder housing (1).
ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY
1. Install NEW brake fluid reservoir sealing grommets (2) in master cylinder housing (1).
Fig. 171: Fluid Reservoir Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
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2. Lubricate reservoir mounting area with fresh clean brake fluid. Place reservoir in position over
sealing grommets. Seat reservoir into sealing grommets using a rocking motion while firmly
pressing down on fluid reservoir. Once installed, make sure fluid reservoir is touching the top of
both sealing grommets (2) or reservoir is not properly installed.
3. Install fluid reservoir mounting screw (3). Tighten screw to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
4. Thoroughly bleed master cylinder before installing it on vehicle. Refer to MASTER CYLINDER,
BRAKE, STANDARD PROCEDURE.
5. Install master cylinder on power brake booster. Upon installation, vacuum seal (1) on rear of
master cylinder must be replaced. Refer to MASTER CYLINDER, BRAKE, INSTALLATION.
INSTALLATION
MASTER CYLINDER
1. Thoroughly bleed master cylinder before installing it on vehicle. Refer to MASTER CYLINDER,
BRAKE, STANDARD PROCEDURE.
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Fig. 173: Vacuum Seal On Rear Of Master Cylinder
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: When replacing master cylinder on vehicle, a NEW vacuum seal (1)
MUST be installed on master cylinder.
2. Install NEW vacuum seal (1) on rear of master cylinder (2) making sure seal fits squarely in
mounting groove.
Fig. 174: Master Cylinder Mounting Nuts
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
3. Position master cylinder (3) on studs of power brake booster, aligning booster push rod with
master cylinder piston.
4. Install two master cylinder mounting nuts (2). Tighten mounting nuts to 15 N.m (133 in. lbs.).
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Fig. 175: Brake Tubes AT Master Cylinder
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Thread primary (3) and secondary (2) brake tubes into master cylinder primary and secondary
ports. Tighten tube nuts to 20 N.m (177 in. lbs.).
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Fig. 177: Disconnecting/Connecting Battery Cables
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
7. Connect battery negative cable (2) to battery post. It is important that this is performed properly.
8. Fill master cylinder fluid reservoir (1) with clean, fresh Mopar® Brake Fluid or equivalent.
9. Install access panel in cowl area.
10. Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of brakes.
1. Thoroughly bleed master cylinder before installing it on vehicle. Refer to MASTER CYLINDER,
BRAKE, STANDARD PROCEDURE.
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Fig. 179: Vacuum Seal On Rear Of Master Cylinder
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: When replacing master cylinder on vehicle, a NEW vacuum seal (2)
MUST be installed on master cylinder.
2. Install NEW vacuum seal (1) on rear of master cylinder (2) making sure seal fits squarely in
mounting groove.
Fig. 180: Master Cylinder Mounting Nuts
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Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
3. Position master cylinder (3) on studs of power brake booster, aligning booster push rod with
master cylinder piston.
4. Install two master cylinder mounting nuts (1). Tighten mounting nuts to 15 N.m (133 in. lbs.).
5. Thread primary (3) and secondary (2) brake tubes into master cylinder primary and secondary
ports. Tighten tube nuts to 20 N.m (177 in. lbs.).
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Fig. 182: Brake Fluid Level Sensor Connection
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
6. Connect wiring harness connector (4) to brake fluid level sensor (2) mounted in brake fluid
reservoir (1).
8. Connect battery negative cable (2) to battery post. It is important that this is performed properly.
9. Fill master cylinder fluid reservoir (1) with clean, fresh Mopar® Brake Fluid or equivalent.
10. Install access panel in cowl area.
11. Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of brakes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
CAUTION: After installing NEW brake pads, keep in mind that braking effectiveness
might be somewhat reduced during the first brake applications.
When NEW brake pads are installed on a vehicle, this procedure must be used to correctly burnish
(seat) the brake linings to the brake rotor discs.
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1. Accelerate the vehicle to a steady speed of about 40 mph (65 km/h).
2. Using light brake pedal pressure, slow the vehicle from 40 mph to 0 mph in approximately 6
seconds.
3. Accelerate back up to 40 mph for approximately one minute to allow the brakes to cool down.
4. Repeat this procedure 15 to 20 times to correctly seat the brake lining material.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
NOTE: Perform 2 through8 on each side of vehicle to complete pad set removal.
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Fig. 186: Tire And Wheel Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
2. Remove wheel mounting nuts (3), then tire and wheel assembly (1).
3. Using hammer (4) and pin punch (3) on outboard end, tap lower brake pad support pin (2) out of
caliper (1).
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Fig. 188: Removing/Installing Spring Clip
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
4. Remove brake pad spring clip (2) out from under the upper support pin (1) still in caliper.
5. Using pin punch (3) and hammer (4), remove upper brake pad support pin (2) in same manner
used on lower support pin.
CAUTION: When pushing pistons back into caliper bores, if hand pressure is
not sufficient, use only a trim stick as shown in illustration or other
suitable soft tool to do so. Never use a screwdriver or other metal pry
bar due to potential damage to braking surface of rotor or pads.
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Fig. 190: Pushing Back Pistons Into Bores
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
6. Using hand pressure, pull pads back to seat caliper pistons into bores if possible. If not
possible, perform the following to do this correctly without damaging the caliper, pistons, dust
boots or brake rotor disc.
1. Place trim stick (3) between inboard brake pad and outer edge of rotor (1).
2. Using trim stick (3), apply pressure against the inboard brake pad until both pistons are
completely bottomed in bores of inboard caliper half. Leave trim stick in place to hold
pistons in place.
3. Place second trim stick between outboard brake pad and rotor, then repeat above step on
outboard pad and pistons.
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Fig. 191: Brake Pad Removal
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
7. Remove inboard brake pad (2) through opening in caliper (1). Remove outboard brake pad in
same manner.
8. Once brake pads are removed from caliper (1), inspect all four caliper pistons (3) and dust boots
(2) for evidence of brake fluid leakage. Also inspect dust boots on all caliper pistons for any
cuts, tears or heat cracks and brake pad supports (4) (if equipped) for excess wear or damage.
If caliper fails inspection, it should be replaced.
CLEANING
CLEANING
WARNING: Chrysler does not manufacture any vehicles or replacement parts that
contain asbestos. Aftermarket products may or may not contain asbestos.
Refer to aftermarket product packaging for product information.
Whether the product contains asbestos or not, dust and dirt can
accumulate on brake parts during normal use. Follow practices
prescribed by appropriate regulations for the handling, processing and
disposing of dust and debris.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
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Visually inspect brake pads for uneven lining wear. Also inspect for excessive lining deterioration.
Check the clearance between the tips of the wear indicators (if equipped) on the pads and the brake
rotors.
If a visual inspection does not adequately determine the condition of the lining, a physical check will
be necessary. To check the amount of lining wear, remove the disc brake pads from the vehicle.
Measure brake pad minimum thickness (1). Brake pads must be replaced when usable material on a
brake pad lining (2) measured at its thinnest point measures one millimeter (0.04 inches) or less.
If a brake pad fails inspection, replace both disc brake pads (inboard and outboard) at each caliper. It
is also necessary to replace the pads on the opposite side of the vehicle as well as the pads failing
inspection to maintain proper braking characteristics.
If the brake pad assemblies do not require replacement, be sure to reinstall the brake pads in the
original position they were removed from.
NOTE: It is important to inspect both front and rear brake pads during the same
inspection.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 194: Brake Pad Installation
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
NOTE: Perform 1 through11 on each side of vehicle to complete pad set installation
before proceeding with12.
1. Make sure all caliper pistons are fully seated (bottomed) in bores.
2. If equipped, remove the film from the brake pad double sticky isolator.
3. Slide NEW inboard (2) and outboard brake pads into opening (1) in disc brake caliper. If
installing rear brake pads, make sure beveled end of each pad lining is directed against
the direction the rotor is rotating in when vehicle is moving forward, in other words, the
rear pads need to have beveled end facing upward.
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Fig. 195: Installing Upper Support Pin
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
4. From inboard side, slide upper brake pad support pin (2) through caliper (3) and upper holes in
both brake pads (1). Ensure that small end of support pin is in hole (4) in outboard half of
caliper.
5. Install upper end of brake pad spring clip (2) under upper brake pad support pin (1).
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Fig. 197: Installing Lower Support Pin
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
6. Press on lower end of spring clip (5) until it touches brake rotor.
7. Slide lower brake pad support pin (2) through caliper (1) and lower holes in both brake pads (3)
in the same manner the upper pin was installed. Ensure small end of support pin is in hole (4) in
outboard half of caliper.
8. Release the spring clip allowing it to engage lower support pin.
9. From inboard side, seat upper and lower support pins (4) into caliper (3) using pin punch (1)
and hammer (2). Support pins must be driven into caliper until support pin retaining rings are
locked into place.
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Fig. 199: Correctly Assembled Pads In Caliper
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
10. Once support pins are fully installed into caliper, inspect assembled caliper to make sure spring
clip (2) is centered in opening (1) of caliper, correctly engaging upper and lower support pins,
and is resting against both brake pads (3).
11. Install tire and wheel assembly (1). Tighten wheel mounting nuts (3) to 150 N.m (110 ft. lbs.)
torque. Refer to INSTALLATION .
12. Lower vehicle.
13. Pump brake pedal several times to set pads to caliper and brake rotor.
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Fig. 201: Reservoir Fluid Level Markings
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: When NEW brake pads have been installed, keep in mind that braking
effectiveness might be somewhat reduced during the first brake
applications following installation.
NOTE: When NEW brake pads are installed, they must be burnished (seated) to
the rotor. This must be done to ensure the proper performance of the
replacement brake pads.
15. Road test vehicle making several stops to wear off any foreign material on brakes and to seat
brake pad linings. NEW brake pads need to be burnished properly. Refer to PADS, BRAKE,
SRT8, STANDARD PROCEDURE.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 202: Tire And Wheel Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
2. Remove wheel mounting nuts (3), then tire and wheel assembly (1).
NOTE: In some cases, it may be necessary to retract caliper piston in its bore a
small amount in order to provide sufficient clearance between shoes and
rotor to easily remove caliper from knuckle. This can usually be
accomplished before guide pin bolts are removed by grasping rear of
caliper and pulling outward working with guide pins, thus retracting
piston. Never push on piston directly as it may get damaged.
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Fig. 203: Caliper Guide Pin & Bolt
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
3. Remove lower caliper guide pin bolt. To do so, hold the guide pin (3) stationary while turning
bolt (1).
4. Rotate caliper upward (1), exposing brake pads (2 and 5). Use care not to overextend brake
hose when doing this or damage may occur.
5. Remove inboard (2) and outboard (5) brake pads from caliper adapter (4).
6. If necessary, remove anti-rattle clips (3) from upper and lower abutments of adapter (4).
CLEANING
CLEANING
WARNING: Chrysler does not manufacture any vehicles or replacement parts that
contain asbestos. Aftermarket products may or may not contain asbestos.
Refer to aftermarket product packaging for product information.
Whether the product contains asbestos or not, dust and dirt can
accumulate on brake parts during normal use. Follow practices
prescribed by appropriate regulations for the handling, processing and
disposing of dust and debris.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
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Visually inspect brake pads for uneven lining wear. Also inspect for excessive lining deterioration.
Check the clearance between the tips of the wear indicators (if equipped) on the pads and the brake
rotors.
If a visual inspection does not adequately determine the condition of the lining, a physical check will
be necessary. To check the amount of lining wear, remove the disc brake pads from the vehicle.
Measure brake pad minimum thickness (1). Brake pads must be replaced when usable material on a
brake pad lining (2) measured at its thinnest point measures one millimeter (0.04 inches) or less.
If a brake pad fails inspection, replace both disc brake pads (inboard and outboard) at each caliper. It
is also necessary to replace the pads on the opposite side of the vehicle as well as the pads failing
inspection to maintain proper braking characteristics.
If the brake pad assemblies do not require replacement, be sure to reinstall the brake pads in the
original position they were removed from.
NOTE: It is important to inspect both front and rear brake pads during the same
inspection.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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NOTE: Perform steps 1 through 7 on each side of the vehicle.
2. If removed, attach anti-rattle clips (3) to upper and lower abutments of adapter (4).
3. If equipped, remove the film from the brake pad double sticky isolator.
4. Install NEW inboard (2) and outboard (5) brake pads on caliper adapter (4). NEW Inboard and
outboard pads are interchangeable.
5. Push caliper guide pins into caliper adapter to clear caliper mounting bosses when installing.
6. Rotate caliper downward, aligning upper mounting boss with lower guide pin.
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Fig. 207: Caliper Guide Pin & Bolt
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
7. Install Upper caliper guide pin bolt (1). While holding guide pin (3) stationary tighten bolt to 60
N.m (44 ft. lbs.).
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Fig. 209: Reservoir Fluid Level Markings
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: When NEW brake pads have been installed, keep in mind that braking
effectiveness might be somewhat reduced during the first brake
applications following installation.
12. Road test vehicle making several stops to wear off any foreign material on brakes and to seat
brake shoes. If the vehicle is equipped with the Police Package, a burnish procedure must be
followed (Refer to preceding Caution).
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
NOTE: Before proceeding, refer to CAUTION and WARNING.
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Fig. 210: Tire And Wheel Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
2. Remove wheel mounting nuts (3), then tire and wheel assembly (1).
NOTE: In some cases, it may be necessary to retract caliper piston in its bore a
small amount in order to provide sufficient clearance between shoes and
rotor to easily remove caliper from knuckle. This can usually be
accomplished before guide pin bolts are removed by grasping rear of
caliper and pulling outward working with guide pins, thus retracting
piston. Never push on piston directly as it may get damaged.
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Fig. 211: Caliper Guide Pin & Bolt
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
3. Remove Upper caliper guide pin bolt (1). To do so, hold the guide pin (3) stationary while
turning bolt.
4. Rotate caliper downward (5), exposing brake pads (2 and 3). Use care not to overextend
brake hose when doing this or damage may occur.
5. Remove inboard (2) and outboard (3) brake pads from caliper adapter (4).
6. If necessary, remove anti-rattle clips (1) from upper and lower abutments of adapter (4).
CLEANING
CLEANING
WARNING: Chrysler does not manufacture any vehicles or replacement parts that
contain asbestos. Aftermarket products may or may not contain asbestos.
Refer to aftermarket product packaging for product information.
Whether the product contains asbestos or not, dust and dirt can
accumulate on brake parts during normal use. Follow practices
prescribed by appropriate regulations for the handling, processing and
disposing of dust and debris.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
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Visually inspect brake pads for uneven lining wear. Also inspect for excessive lining deterioration.
Check the clearance between the tips of the wear indicators (if equipped) on the pads and the brake
rotors.
If a visual inspection does not adequately determine the condition of the lining, a physical check will
be necessary. To check the amount of lining wear, remove the disc brake pads from the vehicle.
Measure brake pad minimum thickness (1). Brake pads must be replaced when usable material on a
brake pad lining (2) measured at its thinnest point measures one millimeter (0.04 inches) or less.
If a brake pad fails inspection, replace both disc brake pads (inboard and outboard) at each caliper. It
is also necessary to replace the pads on the opposite side of the vehicle as well as the pads failing
inspection to maintain proper braking characteristics.
If the brake pad assemblies do not require replacement, be sure to reinstall the brake pads in the
original position they were removed from.
NOTE: It is important to inspect both front and rear brake pads during the same
inspection.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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NOTE: Perform steps 1 through 7 on each side of the vehicle.
2. If removed, attach anti-rattle clips (1) to upper and lower abutments of adapter (4).
3. If equipped, remove the film from the brake pad double sticky isolator.
4. Install NEW inboard (2) and outboard (3) brake pads on caliper adapter (4). NEW Inboard and
outboard pads are interchangeable.
5. Push caliper guide pins into caliper adapter to clear caliper mounting bosses when installing.
6. Rotate caliper upward, aligning upper mounting boss with upper guide pin.
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Fig. 215: Caliper Guide Pin & Bolt
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
NOTE: Before installing caliper guide pin bolts, clean guide pin bolt threads and
apply Mopar® Lock AND Seal Adhesive or equivalent.
7. Install upper caliper guide pin bolt (1). While holding guide pin (3) stationary tighten bolt to 31
N.m (23 ft. lbs.).
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Fig. 216: Tire And Wheel Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: When NEW brake pads have been installed, keep in mind that braking
effectiveness might be somewhat reduced during the first brake
applications following installation.
12. Road test vehicle making several stops to wear off any foreign material on brakes and to seat
brake shoes. If the vehicle is equipped with the Police Package, a burnish procedure must be
followed (Refer to preceding Caution).
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PEDAL(S), BRAKE AND/OR ACCELERATOR
REMOVAL
PEDAL
1. Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable (2) from battery post.
2. Remove driver side silencer under instrument panel. Refer to PANEL, SILENCER,
INSTALLATION .
3. Remove steering column opening cover. Refer to COVER, STEERING COLUMN OPENING,
INSTALLATION .
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Fig. 219: Locating Stop Lamp Switch And Pedal Rod
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
PEDAL - RHD
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Fig. 221: Disconnecting/Connecting Battery Cables
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
2. Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable (2) from battery post.
3. Remove driver side silencer under instrument panel. Refer to PANEL, SILENCER,
INSTALLATION .
4. Remove steering column opening cover. Refer to COVER, STEERING COLUMN OPENING,
INSTALLATION .
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Fig. 222: Stop Lamp Switch Mounting - RHD
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Remove stop lamp switch (2). Refer to SWITCH, STOP LAMP, REMOVAL .
CAUTION: When removing booster push rod from brake pedal pin, be careful
not to damage rubber O-ring on pin.
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Fig. 224: Radio Amplifier /Transmission Control Module
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
8. Remove two lower (2) and one upper mounting screw fastening the radio amplifier/transmission
control module assembly (1) in place.
9. Disconnect four wiring connectors and remove radio amplifier/transmission control module
assembly (1).
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Fig. 225: Booster And Pedal Mounting - RHD
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
10. Remove four power brake booster (2) mounting nuts (5).
11. Remove two nuts (4) fastening pedal bracket to upper dash panel (3).
12. Push power brake booster (3) forward into engine compartment as far as possible by hand. Do
not force it.
13. Remove brake pedal (1).
INSTALLATION
PEDAL
Fig. 226: Brake Pedal Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. Install adjustable brake pedal assembly (4) under instrument panel and slide over booster push
rod.
2. From engine compartment side, push power brake booster (3) mounting studs back through
dash panel (2) and brake pedal bracket.
3. Install two upper mounting nuts (1) fastening pedal bracket to upper dash panel (2). Do not
tighten at this time.
4. Install four power brake booster mounting nuts (1). Tighten nuts to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
5. Tighten two upper mounting nuts (1) to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
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Fig. 227: Locating Stop Lamp Switch And Pedal Rod
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
6. Slide booster push rod (5) onto brake pedal pin (4). Install NEW retaining clip (3) securing push
rod to brake pedal.
7. Install and adjust brake lamp switch (2). Refer to SWITCH, STOP LAMP, INSTALLATION .
8. Install steering column opening cover. Refer to COVER, STEERING COLUMN OPENING,
INSTALLATION .
9. Install driver side silencer under instrument panel. Refer to PANEL, SILENCER,
INSTALLATION .
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Fig. 228: Disconnecting/Connecting Battery Cables
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
10. Connect battery negative cable (2) to battery post. It is important that this is performed properly.
11. Road test vehicle testing operation of brakes.
PEDAL - RHD
1. Install brake pedal assembly (4) under instrument panel and slide over booster push rod.
2. From engine compartment side, push power brake booster (3) mounting studs back through
dash panel (2) and brake pedal bracket.
3. Install two upper mounting nuts (4) fastening pedal bracket to dash panel (3). Do not tighten at
this time.
4. Install four power brake booster mounting nuts (5). Tighten nuts to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.).
5. Tighten two upper mounting nuts (4) to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: When installing booster push rod on brake pedal pin, be careful not
to damage rubber O-ring on pin.
6. Slide booster push rod onto brake pedal pin. Install NEW retaining clip securing push rod to
brake pedal.
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Fig. 230: Stop Lamp Switch Mounting - RHD
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
7. Install and adjust brake lamp switch (2). Refer to SWITCH, STOP LAMP, INSTALLATION .
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Fig. 231: Radio Amplifier /Transmission Control Module
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
8. Connect four wiring connectors to radio amplifier/transmission control module assembly (1).
9. Place radio amplifier/transmission control module assembly (1) in mounted position. Install one
upper and two lower (2) mounting screws.
10. Install steering column opening cover. Refer to COVER, STEERING COLUMN OPENING,
INSTALLATION .
11. Install driver side silencer under instrument panel. Refer to PANEL, SILENCER,
INSTALLATION .
STANDARD PROCEDURE
NOTE: Although the pedals can be synchronized at either the full-forward or full-
rearward positions (both pedals must be in the same position), it is
recommended to do so with the pedals positioned in the full-forward position
due to service part positioning from the factory.
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Fig. 233: Cable Attachment To Accelerator Module
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. Disconnect the adjuster cable (1) running between the accelerator pedal module and the brake
pedal assembly at the adjuster motor (2).
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Fig. 234: Accelerator Pedal Adjusted Full-Forward
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
2. Using the switch, position the accelerator pedal (2) in the full-forward position. The pin on the
pedal (1) will line up with the adjustment line (2) at this point.
3. Using a drill motor, or other suitable device, rotate the adjuster cable strand (2) from the
accelerator pedal end to position the brake pedal (1) toward the full-forward position.
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Fig. 236: Brake Pedal Adjusted Full-Forward
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
4. Rotate the adjuster cable strand until the brake pedal (4) gear drive block (1) lines up with the
full-forward adjustment line (3) as shown in illustration. If equipped, fine adjustments can be
made by turning the adjustment knob (2) by hand to line up the components.
5. Reconnect the adjuster cable to the adjuster motor. If the cable resists connection, if equipped,
turn the adjustment knob (2) by hand until the cable drops into place. If not equipped with the
adjustment knob, wiggle the cable around until the cable drops into place.
6. Verify proper operation of the adjustable pedals.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
2. Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable (2) from battery post.
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Fig. 241: Booster & Pedal Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 242: Booster & Pedal Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
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Fig. 244: Locating Stop Lamp Switch And Pedal Rod
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
8. Slide booster push rod (5) onto brake pedal pin (4). Install NEW retaining clip (3) securing push
rod to brake pedal.
9. Install and adjust brake lamp switch (2). Refer to SWITCH, STOP LAMP, INSTALLATION .
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Fig. 246: Cable Attachment To Accelerator Module
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
11. Synchronize brake pedal to accelerator pedal, then connect adjuster cable (1) to adjuster motor
(2). Refer to PEDAL(S), BRAKE AND/OR ACCELERATOR, ADJUSTABLE, STANDARD
PROCEDURE.
12. If vehicle is equipped with memory seats, the system will need to be initialized. Refer to
appropriate diagnostic information.
13. Test operation of adjustable pedals.
14. Road test vehicle testing operation of brakes and accelerator.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 247: Cowl Access Panel
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. Remove access panel (1) in cowl area to expose master cylinder (2).
2. Thoroughly clean all surfaces of brake fluid reservoir and master cylinder. Use only Mopar®
Brake Parts Cleaner or equivalent.
3. Disconnect wiring harness connector (4) from brake fluid level sensor (2) in master cylinder
brake fluid reservoir (1).
Fig. 249: Fluid Reservoir Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
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4. Remove brake fluid reservoir cap (1). Using a clean syringe or equivalent type tool, empty as
much brake fluid as possible from the reservoir.
CAUTION: When removing fluid reservoir from the master cylinder, do not pry
off using any type of tool. This can damage the fluid reservoir or
master cylinder housing.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 251: Reservoir Seal Grommets
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. Install NEW brake fluid reservoir sealing grommets (2) in master cylinder housing (1).
2. Lubricate reservoir mounting area with fresh clean brake fluid. Place reservoir in position over
sealing grommets. Seat reservoir into sealing grommets using a rocking motion while firmly
pressing down on fluid reservoir. Once installed, make sure fluid reservoir is touching the top of
both sealing grommets (2) or reservoir is not properly installed.
3. Install fluid reservoir mounting screw (3). Tighten screw to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.) torque.
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Fig. 253: Brake Fluid Level Sensor Connection
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
4. Connect wiring harness connector (4) to brake fluid level sensor (2) mounted in brake fluid
reservoir (1).
5. Fill master cylinder fluid reservoir (1) with clean, fresh Mopar® Brake Fluid or equivalent.
6. Install access panel in cowl area.
ROTOR, BRAKE
Any servicing of the rotor requires extreme care to maintain the rotor within service tolerances to
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ensure proper brake action.
Excessive runout or wobble in a rotor can increase pedal travel due to piston knock-back. This
increases guide pin sleeve wear due to the tendency of the caliper to follow the rotor wobble.
When diagnosing a brake noise or pulsation, the machined disc braking surface should be inspected.
Light braking surface scoring and wear is acceptable. If heavy scoring or warping is evident, the rotor
must be refaced or replaced. Refer to ROTOR, BRAKE, STANDARD PROCEDURE.
Excessive wear and scoring of the rotor can cause improper lining contact on the rotor's braking
surface. If the ridges on the rotor are not removed before new brake shoes are installed, improper
wear of the shoes will result.
If a vehicle has not been driven for a period of time, the rotor's braking surface will rust in the areas
not covered by the brake shoes at that time. Once the vehicle is driven, noise and chatter from the
disc brakes can result when the brakes are applied.
Some discoloration or wear of the rotor surface is normal and does not require resurfacing when
linings are replaced. If cracks or burned spots are evident, the rotor must be replaced.
Measure rotor thickness (1) at the center of the brake shoe contact surface. Replace the rotor if it is
worn below minimum thickness or if machining the rotor will cause its thickness to fall below
specifications.
CAUTION: Do not machine the rotor if it will cause the rotor to fall below minimum
thickness.
Most minimum thickness specifications (1) are cast into the rotor's unmachined surface (2). Some
brake rotors have the minimum thickness specification located elsewhere. Limits can also be found in
this component's specification table. Refer to ROTOR, BRAKE, SPECIFICATIONS.
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Fig. 257: Measuring Rotor Thickness
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
Thickness variation in a rotor's braking surface can result in pedal pulsation, chatter and surge. This
can also be caused by excessive runout in the rotor or the hub.
Rotor thickness variation measurements should be made in conjunction with measuring runout.
Measure thickness of the brake rotor (2) at 12 equal points around the rotor braking surface with a
micrometer (1) at a radius approximately 25 mm (1 inch) from edge of rotor. If thickness
measurements vary beyond the specification listed in the specification table, the rotor should be
refaced or replaced. Refer to ROTOR, BRAKE, SPECIFICATIONS and ROTOR, BRAKE,
STANDARD PROCEDURE.
ROTOR RUNOUT
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Fig. 258: Measuring Rotor Runout
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
On-vehicle rotor runout is the combination of the individual runout of the hub face and the runout of
the brake rotor (hub runout can be measured separately). To measure rotor runout on the vehicle:
If runout is in excess of specifications, check the lateral runout of the hub face. Before removing
the rotor from the hub, place a chalk mark across both the rotor (1) and the one wheel stud (2)
closest to where the high runout measurement was taken. This way, the original mounting spot
of the rotor on the hub is indexed.
8. Remove the rotor from the hub. Refer to ROTOR, BRAKE, REMOVAL.
9. Mount Dial Indicator (2), Special Tool (special tool #C-3339A, Set, Dial Indicator), to the
knuckle. Position Dial Indicator stem so it contacts hub face (1) near outer diameter. Care must
be taken to position stem outside of stud circle, but inside of chamfer on the hub rim.
10. Slowly rotate hub measuring runout. Hub runout should not exceed 0.01 mm (0.0004 inch). If
runout exceeds this specification, the hub must be replaced. Refer to HUB AND BEARING,
REMOVAL or HUB AND BEARING, REMOVAL .
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Fig. 261: Rotor Reindexed On Wheel Studs
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
11. If hub runout does not exceed this specification, install original rotor back on hub, aligning chalk
mark on rotor (2) with a wheel mounting stud, two studs apart from original stud (1).
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Fig. 262: Measuring Rotor Runout
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
12. Install standard wheel mounting nuts, flat side to rotor, on all studs (2). Progressively tighten
nuts to 150 N.m (110 ft. lbs.) torque.
13. Mount Dial Indicator (1) and remeasure runout on both sides of the brake rotor as explained in
earlier steps to see if runout is now within specifications. Refer to ROTOR, BRAKE,
SPECIFICATIONS.
14. If runout is still not within specifications, reface or replace brake rotor. Refer to ROTOR,
BRAKE, STANDARD PROCEDURE.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
NOTE: Refacing the rotor is not required each time the brake pads are replaced, only
when the need is foreseen.
Any servicing of the rotor requires extreme care to maintain the rotor within service tolerances to
ensure proper brake action.
Fig. 263: On-Car Brake Lathe
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
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1 - ON-CAR BRAKE LATHE
If the rotor surface is deeply scored or warped, or there is a complaint of brake roughness or brake
pedal pulsation, the rotor should be refaced using a hub-mounted on-car brake lathe (1), or replaced.
The use of a hub-mounted on-car brake lathe (1) is highly recommended to eliminate the possibility of
excessive runout. It trues the brake rotor to the vehicle's hub and bearing.
Minimum allowable thickness is the minimum thickness which the brake rotor machined surface may
be cut to.
CAUTION: Do not machine the rotor if it will cause the rotor to fall below minimum
thickness.
NOTE: Most brake rotors (2) have markings for minimum allowable thickness
specification cast into an unmachined surface of the rotor or stamped into the
hat section (1). Some brake rotors have the minimum thickness specification
located elsewhere. Minimum thickness specifications can also be found in this
component's specification table. Refer to ROTOR, BRAKE, SPECIFICATIONS.
Before lathe installation, verify the brake rotor face and the hub adapters are free of any chips, rust,
or contamination.
When mounting and using the brake lathe, strict attention to the brake lathe manufacturer's operating
instructions is required.
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Machine both sides of the brake rotor at the same time. Cutting both sides at the same time
minimizes the possibility of a tapered or uneven cut.
When refacing a rotor, the required TIR (Total Indicator Reading) and thickness variation limits MUST
BE MAINTAINED. Extreme care in the operation of rotor turning equipment is required. Specifications
for brake rotor machining can be found in this informations specification table. Refer to ROTOR,
BRAKE, SPECIFICATIONS.
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS
NOTE: When refacing a rotor, the required TIR (Total Indicator Reading) and thickness
variation limits MUST BE MAINTAINED. Extreme care in the operation of rotor
turning (machining) equipment is required.
REMOVAL
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FRONT
NOTE: In some cases, it may be necessary to retract caliper piston in its bore a
small amount in order to provide sufficient clearance between shoes and
rotor to easily remove caliper from knuckle. This can usually be
accomplished before mounting bolts are removed, by grasping rear of
caliper and pulling outward working with guide pins, thus retracting
piston. Never push on piston directly as it may get damaged.
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Fig. 266: Locating Front Caliper Bolts AT Knuckle
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
3. AWD - Remove two bolts (1) securing disc brake caliper and adapter (2) to knuckle (3).
4. AWD - Remove disc brake caliper and adapter (2) from knuckle (3) as an assembly. Hang
assembly out of way using wire or a bungee cord. Use care not to overextend brake hose when
doing this.
5. RWD - Remove two bolts (2) securing disc brake caliper and adapter (3) to knuckle (1).
6. RWD - Remove disc brake caliper and adapter (3) from knuckle (1) as an assembly. Hang
assembly out of way using wire or a bungee cord. Use care not to overextend brake hose when
doing this.
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Fig. 268: Locating Clips Retaining Brake Rotor
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
7. Remove any clips (3) retaining brake rotor (2) to wheel studs.
8. Slide brake rotor (2) off hub and bearing (1).
FRONT - SRT8
2. Remove wheel mounting nuts (3), then tire and wheel assembly (1).
CAUTION: When pushing pistons back into caliper bores, use only a trim stick
as shown in illustration or other suitable soft tool. Never use a
screwdriver or other metal pry bar due to potential damage to braking
surface of rotor, caliper, pistons or dust boots.
NOTE: Repeat above procedure to opposite brake pad (1) and pistons as
necessary.
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Fig. 271: Exploded View Of Front Disc Brakes - Srt-8
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
REAR
2. Remove wheel mounting nuts (3), then tire and wheel assembly (1).
NOTE: In some cases, it may be necessary to retract caliper piston in its bore a
small amount in order to provide sufficient clearance between shoes and
rotor to easily remove caliper from knuckle. This can usually be
accomplished before guide pin bolts are removed, by grasping rear of
caliper and pulling outward working with guide pins, thus retracting
piston. Never push on piston directly as it may get damaged.
3. Remove two bolts (1) securing disc brake caliper adapter (3) to knuckle (2).
4. Remove disc brake caliper and adapter (3) from knuckle as an assembly. Hang assembly out of
way using wire or a bungee cord. Use care not to overextend brake hose when doing this.
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Fig. 274: Solid Brake Rotor Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Remove any clips (2) retaining brake rotor (3) to wheel mounting studs.
6. Slide brake rotor (3) off hub and bearing (1).
REAR - SRT8
2. Remove wheel mounting nuts (3), then tire and wheel assembly (1).
CAUTION: When pushing pistons back into caliper bores, use only a trim stick
as shown in illustration or other suitable soft tool. Never use a
screwdriver or other metal pry bar due to potential damage to braking
surface of rotor, caliper, pistons or dust boots.
NOTE: Repeat above procedure to opposite brake pad (1) and pistons as
necessary.
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Fig. 277: Accessing Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Support spring link (1) using a transmission jack (5) or other appropriate jack. Raise spring link
just enough to access brake caliper lower mounting bolt (4) from above compression link (2).
Fig. 278: Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
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Fig. 279: Locating Clips Retaining Brake Rotor
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
8. Remove any clips (3) retaining brake rotor (2) to wheel mounting studs.
9. Slide brake rotor (2) off hub and bearing (1).
INSTALLATION
FRONT
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Fig. 280: Locating Clips Retaining Brake Rotor
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. Clean hub face (1) to remove any dirt or corrosion where rotor mounts.
2. Install brake rotor (2) over studs on hub and bearing.
NOTE: New caliper mounting bolts should be used because they come with a lock
patch of thread locker on them. If reusing caliper mounting bolts, ensure
the bolts and threads are clean of any leftover adhesive and apply Mopar®
Stud N' Bearing Mount Adhesive or equivalent.
3. AWD - Install disc brake caliper and adapter assembly (2) over brake rotor.
4. AWD - Install NEW mounting bolts (1) securing caliper adapter (2) to knuckle (3). Tighten bolts
to 95 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
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Fig. 282: Front Caliper & Adapter Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. RWD - Install disc brake caliper and adapter assembly (3) over brake rotor.
6. RWD - Install mounting bolts (2) securing caliper adapter (3) to knuckle (1). Tighten bolts to 95
N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
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Fig. 283: Tire And Wheel Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
10. Check and adjust brake fluid level in reservoir (1) as necessary.
CAUTION: If NEW brake rotors or pads have been installed, keep in mind that
braking effectiveness might be somewhat reduced during the first
brake applications following installation.
11. Road test vehicle making several stops to wear off any foreign material on brakes and to seat
brake shoes. If the vehicle is equipped with the Police Package, a burnish procedure must be
followed (Refer to preceding Caution).
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FRONT - SRT8
1. Clean hub face (1) to remove any dirt or corrosion where rotor mounts.
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Fig. 286: Exploded View Of Front Disc Brakes - Srt-8
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
2. Install brake rotor (3) over studs on hub and bearing (7).
3. Slide caliper with pads (2) over brake rotor (3) and align with knuckle (8).
4. Install caliper mounting bolts (1). Tighten bolts to 190 N.m (140 ft. lbs.) torque.
5. Install tire and wheel assembly (1). Tighten wheel mounting nuts (3) to 150 N.m (110 ft. lbs.)
torque. Refer to INSTALLATION .
6. Lower vehicle.
7. Pump brake pedal several times to ensure vehicle has a firm brake pedal before moving
vehicle.
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Fig. 288: Reservoir Fluid Level Markings
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: If NEW brake rotors or pads have been installed, keep in mind that
braking effectiveness might be somewhat reduced during the first
brake applications following installation.
9. Road test vehicle making several stops to wear off any foreign material on brakes and to seat
brake pads. If NEW brake pads are installed, they need to be properly burnished. Refer to
PADS, BRAKE, SRT8, STANDARD PROCEDURE.
REAR
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Fig. 289: Solid Brake Rotor Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
NOTE: Inspect disc brake pads and parking brake shoes before installation. Refer to
INSPECTION .
1. Clean hub (1) face to remove any dirt or corrosion where brake rotor mounts.
2. Install brake rotor (3) over wheel mounting studs and onto hub (1).
NOTE: New caliper mounting bolts should be used because they come with a lock
patch of thread locker on them. If reusing caliper mounting bolts, ensure
the bolts and threads are clean of any leftover adhesive and apply Mopar®
Stud N' Bearing Mount Adhesive or equivalent.
3. Install disc brake caliper and adapter assembly (3) over brake rotor.
4. Install mounting bolts (1) securing caliper adapter (3) to knuckle (2). Tighten bolts to 115 N.m
(85 ft. lbs.).
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Fig. 291: Tire And Wheel Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
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Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: If NEW brake rotors or pads have been installed, keep in mind that
braking effectiveness might be somewhat reduced during the first
brake applications following installation.
9. Road test vehicle making several stops to wear off any foreign material on brakes and to seat
brake shoes. If the vehicle is equipped with the Police Package, a burnish procedure must be
followed (Refer to preceding Caution).
REAR - SRT8
NOTE: Inspect brake pads and parking brake shoes before installation. Refer to
INSPECTION .
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Fig. 293: Locating Clips Retaining Brake Rotor
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. Clean hub face (1) to remove any dirt or corrosion where rotor mounts.
2. Install brake rotor (2) over studs on hub and bearing (1).
3. Slide caliper with pads (2) over brake rotor and align with knuckle.
4. Install caliper mounting bolts (1). Tighten bolts to 130 N.m (96 ft. lbs.) torque.
5. Remove jack from under spring link.
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Fig. 295: Tire And Wheel Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
6. Install tire and wheel assembly (1). Tighten wheel mounting nuts (3) to 150 N.m (110 ft. lbs.)
torque. Refer to INSTALLATION .
7. Lower vehicle.
8. Pump brake pedal several times to ensure vehicle has a firm brake pedal before moving
vehicle.
10. Road test vehicle making several stops to wear off any foreign material on brakes and to seat
brake pads. If NEW brake pads are installed, they need to be properly burnished. Refer to
PADS, BRAKE, SRT8, STANDARD PROCEDURE.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
Brake tubing should be inspected periodically for evidence of physical damage or contact with moving
or hot components.
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Flexible rubber hose is used at both the front and rear wheel brakes. Inspection of the flexible brake
hoses should be performed whenever the brake system is serviced and every 12, 000 km (7, 500
miles) or 12 months, whichever comes first. Inspect hydraulic brake hoses for surface cracking,
scuffing, or worn spots. If the fabric casing of the hose becomes exposed due to cracks or abrasions
in the hose cover, the hose should be replaced immediately. Eventual deterioration of the hose can
take place with possible burst failure. Faulty installation can cause twisting, resulting in wheel, tire, or
chassis interference.
NOTE: This vehicle is equipped with more than one size (diameter) brake tube
depending on location on the vehicle. If a brake tube must be replaced, always
use the same size brake tubing as that being replaced. Never use under-size
brake tubing.
VALVE, PROPORTIONING
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
A proportioning valve is used on each vehicle without antilock brakes. One valve is used for both rear
brake hydraulic circuits. The proportioning valve is located in the junction block. Refer to BLOCK,
BRAKE LINE UNION, DESCRIPTION. The valve is not serviceable and must be replaced as part of
the junction block.
PARKING BRAKE
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
This vehicle uses drum-in-hat style parking brakes at each rear wheel. The system is actuated using
a foot-operated mechanism and three parking brake cables.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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Fig. 297: Cables AT Equalizer
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
NOTE: Due to short travel and low spring tension, it is not necessary to lock-out
parking brake lever to service parking brake components.
2. Disconnect front parking brake cable (5) at connector (3) to right rear parking brake cable (4)
above axle differential (not shown).
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Fig. 298: Front Cable Installation Into Equalizer
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
4. Remove screw (2) fastening cable (1) routing bracket to rear crossmember front flange (3).
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Fig. 300: Shield 1
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Remove nuts (1), bolt (2) and push-pins (4), securing lower rear wheelhouse shield (3) to body
of vehicle. Remove lower rear wheelhouse shield.
6. Remove screw (6) and routing clip (4) nuts fastening cable (7) to underside of body (3).
7. Lower vehicle.
8. Remove driver door opening sill scuff plate and cowl side trim.
9. Remove clip and roll back carpet away from front cable.
Fig. 302: Cable Connector Secured In Fork
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Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: Do not remove front parking brake cable from cable connector at
lever without securing connector first. If not secured, cable
connector will wind up inside lever assembly making it most difficult
to retrieve and reconnect to front cable upon installation.
10. Using pliers, reach up inside parking brake lever assembly and pull downward on parking brake
cable connector. Secure cable connector (2) in retaining fork (1) formed into parking brake lever
bracket as shown in illustration.
11. Disengage and remove front parking brake cable strand (1) from cable connector (2), leaving
cable connector secured in retaining fork.
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Fig. 304: Removing Cable Using Wrench
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1 - CABLE RETAINER
2 - 12-POINT BOX WRENCH
12. Place 13 mm 12-point box wrench (2) over cable retainer (1) at lever bracket as shown in
illustration to collapse retainer fingers. Pull cable from bracket.
13. Remove parking brake cable grommet (2) from floor pan (3).
14. Remove parking brake cable (7) through hole in floor pan.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 306: Front Parking Brake Cable
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. Guide parking brake cable (7) down through hole in floor pan.
2. Install parking brake cable grommet (2) in hole of floor pan (3).
3. Guide cable strand (3) up through lever bracket and press cable housing retainer (4) into
bracket allowing retainer fingers to lock cable in place.
Fig. 308: Front Cable AT Lever Connector
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Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
4. Connect front parking brake cable strand (1) to cable connector (2) secured in retaining fork.
5. Once front parking brake cable strand is completely seated in cable connector (2), lift cable
connector out of retaining fork using pliers and slowly allow lever mechanism to take up slack in
cable.
6. Lay carpet back into place and install retaining clip.
7. Install driver door opening sill scuff plate and cowl side trim.
8. Raise and support vehicle.
9. Install screw (6) and routing clip (4) nuts fastening cable (7) to underside of body (3).
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Fig. 310: Front Cable Installation Into Equalizer
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
10. Route cable above rear crossmember, then slide cable end (1) (shown in illustration with
connector) and housing (3) through equalizer (2) above rear axle differential.
NOTE: Due to short travel and low spring tension, it is not necessary to lock-out
parking brake lever to service parking brake components.
11. Connect front parking brake cable (5) at connector (3) to right rear parking brake cable (4) (axle
differential not shown).
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Fig. 312: Front Cable AT Left Front Of Crossmember
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
12. Install screw (2) fastening cable (1) routing bracket to rear crossmember front flange (3).
REMOVAL
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REMOVAL
NOTE: Due to short travel and low spring tension, it is not necessary to lock-out
parking brake lever to service parking brake components.
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Fig. 315: Removing/Installing Actuator
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
4. Remove shoe actuator lever (1) from end of cable (2) and support.
5. Remove screw (4) fastening cable (2) to knuckle (3). Remove cable from knuckle.
6. Remove cable (2) from routing guide (1).
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Fig. 317: Cables AT Crossmember Bracket
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
7. Place 13 mm 12-point box wrench (4) over cable strand and completely onto cable retainer (3)
as shown in illustration at crossmember bracket (1 - left) (2 - right). It may be necessary to
wiggle wrench around somewhat to collapse retainer fingers. With wrench in place, pull cable
from bracket.
8. Remove parking brake cable from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
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Fig. 318: Rear Cable Routing To Knuckle
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. Route leading end of rear parking brake cable (2) up through cable guide (1) on crossmember.
2. Guide cable leading end through crossmember bracket (1 - left) (2 - right) near equalizer and
press cable housing retainer into bracket allowing retainer fingers to lock cable in place.
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Fig. 320: Rear Cable Routing To Knuckle
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
3. Insert opposite end of cable (2) through rear knuckle (3) and install mounting screw (4). Tighten
screw to 8 N.m (71 in. lbs.) torque.
4. Install shoe actuator lever (1) on end of parking brake cable (2). Make sure actuator lever is
positioned with word "UP" facing outward.
5. Install parking brake shoes as well as all components necessary to access them. Refer to
SHOES, PARKING BRAKE, INSTALLATION.
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Fig. 322: Cables AT Equalizer
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
NOTE: Due to short travel and low spring tension, it is not necessary to lock out
parking brake lever to service parking brake components.
REMOVAL
LEVER
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Fig. 323: Cables AT Equalizer
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
NOTE: Due to short travel and low spring tension, it is not necessary to lock-out
parking brake lever to service parking brake components.
2. Disconnect front parking brake cable (5) at connector (3) to right rear parking brake cable.
3. Lower vehicle.
4. Remove steering column opening cover. Refer to COVER, STEERING COLUMN OPENING,
REMOVAL .
Fig. 324: Parking Brake Switch Connector
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
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Fig. 325: Cable Connector Secured In Fork
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: Do not remove front parking brake cable from cable connector at
lever without securing connector first. If not secured, cable
connector will wind up inside lever assembly making it most difficult
to retrieve and reconnect to front cable upon installation.
6. Using pliers, reach up inside parking brake lever assembly and pull downward on parking brake
cable connector. Secure cable connector (2) in retaining fork (1) formed into parking brake lever
bracket as shown in illustration.
Fig. 326: Front Cable AT Lever Connector
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Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
7. Disengage and remove front parking brake cable strand (1) from cable connector (2), leaving
cable connector secured in retaining fork.
1 - CABLE RETAINER
2 - 12-POINT BOX WRENCH
8. Place 13 mm 12-point box wrench (2) over cable retainer (1) at lever bracket as shown in
illustration to collapse retainer fingers. Pull cable from bracket.
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Fig. 328: Lever Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
9. Remove bolt (4) and two nuts (2) mounting parking brake lever (3) to body.
10. Remove parking brake lever (3).
LEVER - RHD
NOTE: Due to short travel and low spring tension, it is not necessary to lock-out
parking brake lever to service parking brake components.
2. Disconnect front parking brake cable (5) at connector (2) to right rear parking brake cable.
3. Lower vehicle.
4. Remove driver side silencer under instrument panel. Refer to PANEL, SILENCER,
INSTALLATION .
5. Remove steering column opening cover. Refer to COVER, STEERING COLUMN OPENING,
INSTALLATION .
6. Remove foot rest. Refer to FOOT REST, FLOOR, FRONT, REMOVAL .
7. Roll back carpet at center console to access lever mounting nuts.
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Fig. 330: Cable Connection AT Lever - RHD
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1 - CABLE RETAINER
2 - 12-POINT BOX WRENCH
10. Place 13 mm 12-point box wrench (2) over cable retainer (1) at lever bracket as shown in
illustration to collapse retainer fingers. Pull cable from bracket.
11. Loosen nut (5) mounting parking brake lever (7) to body.
12. Remove nuts (8) mounting parking brake lever (7) to body.
13. Remove parking brake lever (7).
INSTALLATION
LEVER
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Fig. 333: Lever Mounting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
4. Guide cable strand (3) up through lever bracket and press cable housing retainer (4) into
bracket allowing retainer fingers to lock cable in place.
Fig. 336: Front Cable AT Lever Connector
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Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
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Fig. 338: Parking Brake Cables AT Rear Crossmember
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
NOTE: Due to short travel and low spring tension, it is not necessary to lock-out
parking brake lever to service parking brake components.
9. Connect front parking brake cable (5) at connector (3) to right rear parking brake cable (4).
10. Lower vehicle until rear wheels are just above floor level.
11. Apply parking brake lever. Release lever to test release cable and handle. Reapply lever. While
doing this, check to make sure the red indicator lamp in the cluster turns on and off properly.
12. Check to make sure rear wheels will not rotate with lever applied.
13. Release parking brake lever, then check to make sure rear wheels rotate without excessive
drag.
14. Apply parking brake lever.
15. Lower vehicle.
LEVER - RHD
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Fig. 339: Parking Brake Lever - RHD
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. Install parking brake lever (7) over mounting studs (2, 3).
2. Install two nuts (8) mounting left side of parking brake lever to body. Tighten nuts to 26 N.m (19
ft. lbs.).
3. Tighten nut (5) left on stud (3) to 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs.).
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Fig. 341: Cables AT Equalizer - RHD
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
NOTE: Due to short travel and low spring tension, it is not necessary to lock-out
parking brake lever to service parking brake components.
13. Connect front parking brake cable (5) at connector (2) to left rear parking brake cable (1).
14. Lower vehicle until rear wheels are just above floor level.
15. Apply parking brake lever. Release lever to test release cable and handle. Reapply lever. While
doing this, check to make sure the red indicator lamp in the cluster turns on and off properly.
16. Check to make sure rear wheels will not rotate with lever applied.
17. Release parking brake lever, then check to make sure rear wheels rotate without excessive
drag.
18. Apply parking brake lever.
19. Lower vehicle.
SHOES, PARKING BRAKE
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENTS
While most vehicles require only a fine adjustment of the parking brake shoes, some vehicles may
require a preliminary adjustment before a fine adjustment can be made. If a preliminary adjustment
must be made, refer to PRELIMINARY ADJUSTMENT following the fine adjustment procedure listed
below.
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Fig. 342: Access To Shoe Adjuster Star-Wheel
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
3. Remove plug in parking brake shoe support to access adjuster star-wheel (1).
NOTE: Through the access hole (2), rotate the adjuster star wheel (1) in the
following direction to expand the shoes outward against the drum.
4. Using an appropriate tool, turn adjuster star wheel (1) until wheel will not rotate (dead lock).
5. Back off adjuster six detents (teeth).
6. Rotate wheel, checking for light drag. If drag is too heavy, continue to back off adjuster one
detent at a time until light drag is present. Do not back off star-wheel more than 17 detents
from wheel lock.
7. Install access plug.
8. Adjust opposite wheel parking brake shoes using same method.
9. Lower vehicle.
10. Apply and release parking brake lever once to ensure proper operation of parking brakes.
PRELIMINARY ADJUSTMENT
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Fig. 343: Measuring Parking Brake Drum Diameter
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
2. Using Brake Shoe Gauge, Special Tool (special tool #C-3919, Gauge, Brake Shoes), or
equivalent, measure inside diameter of parking brake drum portion of rotor. Set Gauge.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
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NOTE: The following procedure may be used to remove shoes on either side of the
vehicle.
1 - ACTUATOR
2 - SUPPORT
3 - ADJUSTER SPRING
4 - RETURN SPRING
5 - CALIPER ADAPTER
6 - SHOES
7 - HOLD-DOWN CLIPS AND PINS
8 - ADJUSTER
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Fig. 346: Removing/Installing Actuator
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
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1 - ACTUATOR
2 - SUPPORT
3 - ADJUSTER SPRING
4 - RETURN SPRING
5 - CALIPER ADAPTER
6 - SHOES
7 - HOLD-DOWN CLIPS AND PINS
8 - ADJUSTER
10. Remove lower brake shoe hold-down clip and pin (7).
11. Remove lower shoe (6).
12. Inspect springs, adjuster, lever and aluminum shoe anchor pin for wear or damage. Replace as
necessary.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The following procedure may be used to install shoes on either side of the
vehicle.
NOTE: Inspect springs, adjuster, lever and aluminum shoe anchor pin for wear or
damage prior to installation. Replace as necessary.
Fig. 348: Identifying Parking Brake Components
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
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1 - ACTUATOR
2 - SUPPORT
3 - ADJUSTER SPRING
4 - RETURN SPRING
5 - CALIPER ADAPTER
6 - SHOES
7 - HOLD-DOWN CLIPS AND PINS
8 - ADJUSTER
1. Install lower brake shoe hold-down pin (7) through rear of support (2).
2. Install lower shoe (6) against support plate (2).
3. Install lower brake shoe hold-down clip (7).
4. Install shoe actuator lever (1) on end of parking brake cable (2). Make sure actuator lever is
positioned with word "UP" facing outward.
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Fig. 350: Identifying Parking Brake Components
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1 - ACTUATOR
2 - SUPPORT
3 - ADJUSTER SPRING
4 - RETURN SPRING
5 - CALIPER ADAPTER
6 - SHOES
7 - HOLD-DOWN CLIPS AND PINS
8 - ADJUSTER
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12. Using Brake Shoe Gauge, Special Tool (special tool #C-3919, Gauge, Brake Shoes), or
equivalent, measure inside diameter of parking brake drum portion of rotor. Set gauge.
13. Place Gauge (1) over parking brake shoes at widest point.
14. Using adjuster star wheel (2), adjust parking brake shoes until linings on both park brake shoes
just touch jaws on gauge. This will give a good preliminary adjustment of parking brake shoes,
before a final adjustment is made at end of this procedure.
15. Install hub and bearing with wheel speed sensor as well as all components necessary to access
it. Refer to HUB AND BEARING, INSTALLATION .
16. Lower vehicle.
17. Perform final adjustment of parking brake shoes. Refer to SHOES, PARKING BRAKE,
ADJUSTMENTS.
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