Derpy Dino

Boy
FoxyHookCreations

@foxyhookcreations [email protected] Ko-fi.com/foxyhookcreations

Thank you for purchasing my pattern! I appreciate your support. Please read through this pattern before
beginning!

You may sell products made from this pattern. Please be sure to credit me/tag me when possible or when posting
to social media! My Instagram handle is @foxyhookcreations. I would love to see your creations. You can also email
me pictures, if you would like! You may not sell, change/reproduce or share any part of this pattern (or in whole),
including photos. This includes any “pattern trades” or similar concepts. This pattern is my intellectual property
and I worked hard to create this pattern to share with you all. I do not own the rights to this character or franchise.
This pattern is simply my homage to my favorite franchise and my derpy boi!

This pattern does require sewing, as it makes the pieces flow together! However, I will offer various tips/variations
for options like safety eyes versus felt eyes. I want this pattern to be versatile! For this pattern, the demonstration
photos will be in pink, not red.

The pattern is in US crochet terms. Please do not slip stitch at the end of the round. We will work in a continuous
spiral unless otherwise stated. Your finished size will depend on the yarn you choose, hook size and personal
tension. I suggest a stitch marker, paper clip or scrap yarn that you can use to mark the beginning of your round.
This will help you with keeping stitch counts as well as knowing where the beginning of the round is.

If you run into any issues while you crochet, please feel free to email me!

©FoxyHookCreations
 Materials
~Bernat Blanket Yarn (weight 6) in Crimson (main color), Cream (belly/face), Black (toe beans) and
Yellow (fringe)
~6mm hook
~Darning needle
~stuffing
~stitch marker(s)
~felt (yellow, black and white)
~30mm safety eyes (if you prefer over felt)
~fabric glue for felt details
~scissors
~ami sticks/sewing pins (optional for assembly)

Abbreviations
sc= single crochet
inc= increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
dec= decrease (Put your hook through the front loop of the next stitch, pick up the front loop of the next stitch so
you have the front loops of both stitches on your hook. Yarn over, pull through, yarn over again and complete the
stitch)
st= stitch
sl st= slip stitch
BO= bobble stitch
BLO= back loop only
FLO= front loop only
cc= color change
dc= double crochet
hdc=half double crochet
MR= magic ring/circle

Bobble stitch - To complete a bobble stitch, yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a
loop. You should now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over, and pull through two loops on your hook. Now you
should have two loops remaining. Yarn over, insert your hook in the same stitch you just worked into and pull up
another loop. Yarn over again and pull through two loops. You should now have three loops on your hook. Repeat
these steps until you have six loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all six loops. You may need to use
your finger or the end of your hook to pop the bubble out for your bobble.

Regular decrease - insert your hook into the next stitch yarn over (or under, based on your style) and pull the loop
though, insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull the loop through. You should have three loops on your hook
now. Yarn over and pull through all three loops.

©FoxyHookCreations
 Body (in red)
R1: MR 6 (6)

Tip
R2: inc x6 (12)
R3: [sc, inc] x6 (18)
R4: [2 sc, inc] x6 (24) The top of the head may start to
R5: [3 sc, inc] x6 (30) form a point. You can either keep
R6: [4 sc, inc] x6 (36) going and fix this with stuffing
technique, or you can do a starting
R7: [5 sc, inc] x6 (42)
magic ring of 12 (everything will just
R8: [6 sc, inc] x6 (48) be minus one row to accomodate
R9: [7 sc, inc] x6 (54) for this).
R10: [8 sc, inc] x6 (60)
R11-R30 (20 rounds): sc around (60)
R31: In the BLO - [8 sc, dec] x6 (54) **For these decreases, I recommend a regular decrease. Put your hook through
the first stitch (back loop) , pull up a loop. Put your hook through the next loop and pull up another loop (you
should have three loops on your hook), then yarn under or over and pull through all three loops on your hook. This
makes it easier to navigate the back loops.**
R32: [7 sc, dec] x6 (48)
R33: [6 sc, dec] x6 (42)
R34: [5 sc, dec] x6 (36)
R35: [4 sc, dec] x6 (30)

Start stuffing and shaping here! I have found that stuffing the outsides first then filling in the center helps with
keeping the rounded shape and filling out the top to smooth out the shape. It is really important to stuff and shape
the body so he doesn’t collapse in on himself.

R36: [3 sc, dec] x6 (24)

R37: [2 sc, dec] x6 (18) **finish stuffing around here, keeping the bottom flat to act as a base**
R38: [sc, dec] x 6 (12)
R39: dec x6 (6)

Close up the hole, using a needle and passing the tail through the front loops, cinch closed and tuck in the tail.

Tip
When closing the up the body, make
sure to rip your stuffing up into small
pieces so you can fill in any soft
spots. It is important to stuff the
body firmly so that he is heavy
enough to not fall after sewing on
the other pieces.

©FoxyHookCreations
 Tail (in red)
R1: MR 4 (4)
R2: inc x4 (8) Tip
R3: [sc, inc] x4 (12) It’s important when creating the tail
R4-R5 (2 rounds): 3 sc, inc in the next 2 st, 3 sc, 2 dec (12) that the increases and decreases
are aligned. This is what creates the
R6: [2 sc, inc] x4 (16)
upward curve to the tail.
R7: [3 sc, inc] x4 (20)
R8: 7 sc, inc in the next 2 st, 7 sc, 2 dec (20)
R9: [4 sc, inc] x4 (24)
R10: [5 sc, inc] x4 (28)
R11: sc around (28)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the tail and set aside for assembly later.

©FoxyHookCreations
 Feet (make 2, in red)
R1: MR 8 (8)
R2: inc x8 (16)
R3: [sc, in] x8 (24)
R4: Working in the BLO - 10 sc (in red, cc to black before the bobble), BO (cc to red), 2 sc (cc to black for the
bobble), BO (change back to red), 10 sc (24)
R5-6 (2 rounds): sc around (24)
R7: [sc, dec] x8 (16)

Sl st and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the feet and set aside for assembly later.

Arms (make 2, in red)

R1: MR 6 (6)
R2: [sc, inc] x3 (9)
R3: [2 sc, inc] x3 (12)
R4-R8 (5 rounds): sc around (12)

Stuff the bottom of the arm, fold in half and sc 6 across the top (through both sides to close). Fasten off and leave
a tail for sewing.

©FoxyHookCreations
 Snout (in red)
R1: ch 11, starting in the 2nd chain from the hook, 9 sc, inc in the last st and turn, 9 sc in the other side of the chain,
inc in the last st (22)
R2: inc, 10 sc, inc, 10 sc (24)
R3: 11 sc, inc, 11 sc, inc (26)
R4: sc around (26)
R5: inc, 12 sc, inc, 12 sc (28)

Sl st and fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff and set aside for assembly later.

Long Hair (yellow)

This piece is worked on the flat.

R1: ch 10, in the 2nd chain from the hook, 9 sc across, ch 2 and turn (9)
R2: 3 dc, 3 hdc, 3 sc (9)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Short Hair (yellow)

This piece is worked on the flat.

R1: ch 7, in the second chain from the hook, 6 sc, ch 2 and turn (6)
R2: 2 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc (6)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

©FoxyHookCreations
 Under Belly (Cream)
Please note this part is worked in rows, on the flat.

R1: ch 2, inc in the second chain from the hook, ch 1, turn (2)
R2: sc, inc, ch 1, turn (3)
R3-4 (2 rounds): 3 sc, ch 1, turn (3)
R5: 2 sc, inc, ch 1, turn (4)
R6: 3 sc, inc, ch 1, turn (5)
R7: 4 sc, inc, ch 1, turn (6)
R8: inc, 4 sc, inc, ch 1, turn (8)
R9: inc, 6 sc, inc, ch 1, turn (10)
R10: inc, 8 sc, inc, ch 1, turn (12)
R11: inc, 10 sc, inc, ch 1, turn (14)
R12: inc, 12 sc, inc, ch 1, turn (16)
R13: inc, 14 sc, inc, ch 1, turn (18)
R14: inc, 16 sc, inc, ch 1, turn (20)
R15: inc, 18 sc, inc, ch 1, turn (22)
R16-R26 (11 rows): sc across, ch1, turn (22)
R27: dec, 18 sc, dec, ch 1, turn (20)
R28-R30 (3 rows): sc across, ch 1, turn (20)

Fasten off and leave pretty long tail for sewing, keeping in mind we will be stitching around the outside of the entire
piece.

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 Face Mask (Cream)
Please note this part is worked in rows, on the flat.

R1: ch 14, in the 2nd st from the hook, 13 sc, ch 1, turn (13)
R2-R4 (3 rounds): 13 sc, ch 1, turn (13)
R5: In FLO, inc, 11 sc, inc, ch1, turn (15)
R6: inc, 13 sc, inc, ch 1, turn (17)
R7: inc, 7 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, ch 1, turn (20)
R8: 10 sc, ch 1, turn (10) **we will work the other stitches later**
R9: dec, 6 sc, dec, ch 1, turn (8)
R10: dec, 4 sc, dec, ch 1, turn (6)
R11: dec, 2 sc, dec, ch 1, turn (4)
R12: sc 4, ch 1, turn (4)
R13: dec x2 (2) *fasten off here and work the other side if you have not already*

We will now tie back in to the unworked stitches. I tie back in to the base of the single crochet from R8. Complete
the 10 sc, ch 1, turn. Now we will repeat rows 9-13 to create the other half of the eye mask. When you have created
the second half, ch 1 and single crochet around the edges of the mask to create a clean edge. I put two sc in each
of the top 2 sc on the top of the mask (this makes the mask more round and pointy). Sl st and fasten off when you
reach the ch 1. Leave a long tail for sewing. Tuck in the other loose ends with a yarn needle.

The mask will curve, especially where the FLO row starts. That’s okay! We will be using this to our advantage when
we assemble later on.

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 Belly Patch (Yellow)
Please note this part is worked in rows, on the flat.

R1: ch 9, in the second chain from the hook, 8 sc, ch 1 turn (8)
R2: 8 sc, ch 1, turn
R3: 8 sc (8)

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

Foot Patches (Make 2, Yellow)

Please note this part is worked in rows, on the flat.

R1: ch 4, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, 3 sc, ch 1 and turn (3)
R2: 3 sc, ch 1, turn (3)
R3: 3 sc (3)

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

Big Back Stripe (Yellow)

Please note this part is worked in rows, on the flat.

R1: ch 7, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, 6 sc, ch 1, turn (6)
R2: 6 sc, ch 1 turn (6)
R3: 6 sc (6)

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

Small Back Stripe (Yellow)

Please note this part is worked in rows, on the flat.

R1: ch 7, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, 6 sc, ch 1, turn (6)
R2: 6 sc (6)

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

©FoxyHookCreations
 Assembly
First, sew the yellow squares we made onto the bottom of each foot. You want one edge of the square to be
parallel with the toenails. See the picture below for reference.

Next, we will sew the tail between rounds 19 and 30 (the tail should sit just above the BLO row, which will also help
to stabilize the plushie. Make sure you sew the tail on so the point of the tail is curved upwards). I like to sew this
where the jog line (where the BLO rounds almost touch), as this helps to disguise it.

The underbelly is sewn on with the narrowest part between round 4 on the tail and highest points on round 23 of
the body. The low point will be around round 26. The front of the underbelly will create a U shape, this is intended!
(See picture on next page)

©FoxyHookCreations
Sew the belly patch on, aligning with round 25. You want at least one row covering the red and the other two rows
on the cream of the belly. Center this piece on the belly, as we will position the feet around it later.

We will sew on the feet, aligning the top of them around round 25. We want to position the feet to be close to
touching the ground, but not quite. I also like to sew mine slightly angled, so the toenails point outwards to make
him a little more lazy and cute. (See picture on next page)

©FoxyHookCreations
Sew the snout on around round 14. Your placement may vary, as there should be space between the belly and the
snout, making sure the snout is stiff enough to keep its shape. Take the face mask, and tuck the FLO up against
where the snout meets the body. Pin into place, making sure to center the mask as best as possible. The leftover
FLO loops should not be showing.

Tip
If you’re choosing to use safety
eyes, you will want to insert them on
the mask and secure before you sew
the mask on. I personally centered
mine on the mask between R10-R11. I
also centered them between the
peaks on each side of the mask. Feel
free to play with the look!

©FoxyHookCreations
Sew the arms between rounds 15-21. I personally slid mine forward for more of a chibi look. That way they are
positioned mostly over the feet. However, you can slide them back a bit to give more of a round look. I also
threaded the yarn and secured the front of the arms with a few stitches so they weren’t flappy; this is optional!

Sew the big back stripe on around round 15, so that it sits just above the tail. Sew the small stripe two rows below,
on the tail.

Finally, sew on the hair tufts. I folded the bottom in half and sewed a few stitches, this gave it more structure to
stand up.

©FoxyHookCreations
 Face Details
For the face details, I used my Cricut to cut out triangles. However, these are easily cut out by hand! You will need
two long/skinny triangles for his nostrils. I cut them out of black felt. For his tooth, I cut a wide, rounded triangle out
of white felt. You’re also welcome to crochet a tooth, if you prefer! If you’re using felt for his eyes, you can use a
combination of felt and heat transfer vinyl or just felt. To make his felt eyes, I used an oval and a smaller oval that I
slid over to the edge to make him look more chibi like. Any of these details can be embroidered, if you prefer.

Optional Apple Accessory

by @taycrayon
Starting in red (was done in Parfait Chunky - Poppy and Teddy; and 4.5mm hook)

R1: MR 6 (6)
R2: inc x6 (12)
R3: [sc, inc] x6 (18)
R4: [2 sc, inc] x6 (24)
R5: [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30)
R6-8 (3 rounds): sc around (30)
R9: [3 sc, dec] x6 (24)
R10-11 (2 rounds): sc around (24)
R12: [2 sc, dec] x6 (18)
R13: [sc, dec] x6 (12)
R14: dec x6 (6)

Fasten off and leave an extra long tail, both to attach if desired and to make the indent. Use the yarn tail to dent
the bottom and the top of the apple in. Only cut the yarn if you do not plan on attaching the apple permanently.

Stem (in brown)

R1: ch 4, starting the in the second ch from the hook, 3 sc

Fasten off and sew to the top of the apple.

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Congrats, you are done!

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 Tester Appreciation

@untanglingarts @adriology

@sleepingsnorlaxcrochet @lisamakestoys

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 Tester Appreciation

@wicked_stitches_crochet @cheerfulchaos_crafts

@geekkmother @taycrayon

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@stitch.and.unicorns @naiadnovelties

@playinghookydesigns

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