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Volume 03, Issue 03, 35 Pages

November 2023

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Asia’s textile industry

transforming to adopt
EU’s sustainable fashion standards

Bananatex®: German Smart Adobe’s Project Primrose:

Sustainable fabric for Technologies on show Interactive dress changes
a circular future at ITMA Asia + CITME color & pattern in real time

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 Volume 03, Issue 03, 35 Pages
November 2023

Editor in Chief
Tareq Amin

Executive Chief
Eousup Novee

Managing Editors
SK Saha
Rahbar Hossain
Akhi Akter

Executive Editors
Sadman Sakib
M A Mohiemen Tanim
Sayed Abdullah
Arif Uz Zaman

Special Editors
Muddassir Rashid
Setara Begum

Head of Business
Amzad Hossain

Design
Easen Miah
Hasan Miah

Cinematographer
Ashraful Alam

A Textile Today Innovation Hub publication.

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© All rights reserved to Textile Today Innovation Hub 2023

Volume 03, Issue 03 (November 2023)
 Volume 03, Issue 03, 35 Pages
November 2023

Content November 2023

5 Asia’s textile industry

transforming to adopt
EU’s sustainable
17 Recover™ partners with
EuRIC to advance EU
textile recycling policies
26 Coats & Lenzing
unite for sustainable
innovation
fashion standards

6 Bananatex®:
Sustainable fabric for a 18 ‘SHEIN’ singly controls
USA’s 40% fast fashion
27 Heberlein success
story continues: New
Swiss owners for long-
circular future Shein's on-demand established company
business model is

28
reason for its low prices

7 19
Beating Heat: rise
Double-digit demand Adobe’s Project of cooling fabric
growth of recycled Primrose: Interactive technology
polyester & nylon in dress changes color &
next 5 years, New report pattern in real time

29
predicts

8 20
CHT awarded as Top H&M & Rabanne
Secondhand Clothing: A Performer by Adidas for announced design
Sustainable and Socially sustainable chemicals collaboration
Responsible Choice for
Fashion Lovers

21 30 Proof data can boost

12
Space Fabric: NASA’s Fulgar’s AMNI SOUL spinners revenues
“Scale Maille” – A ECO® Yarn Combats
Fabric from the Future Microplastic Pollution
for Sustainable Fashion

31 Swiss textile machinery

14 22
companies innovating
German Smart Unlocking cotton with utmost importance
Technologies on show at transparency: Exploring to environment
ITMA Asia + CITME industry’s traceability
dimensions

32 New textile mechanism

15
can assist disabled

24
Reimagining Textile person
Waste in India: A ACT Pushes for

33
Conference to Accelerate Textile Circularity in
Circularity Biden’s plan to boost Heberlein launches
sustainable procurement advanced DTY jets,
promising profits and

16 25
efficiency

34
Jeanologia transforms Archroma completes 10
denim design with years with innovative New textile mechanism
eDesigner chemicals can assist disabled
person
Asia’s textile industry transforming to
adopt EU’s sustainable fashion standards
Ahosanuzzaman Roni

What's Europe's issue with the textile industry?

2,700 litres of water is needed to produce one T-shirt,
enough drinking water for one person for 2.5 years

10% of global greenhouse gas emissions are caused by

clothing and footwear production; this is more than all
international flights and maritime shipping combined

79 billion cubic metres of water was

used by the textile and clothing

0.5 million tons of microfibers from washing into

the ocean every year; this accounts for 35% of
primary microplastics

The new European Union Strategy microfiber shedding, and minimize that changing the $2 trillion industry
for Sustainable and Circular Textiles textile waste. Some companies in would need $20 billion to $30 billion
passed in June 2022, mandates that Asia, like Chetna Organic in India, of money every year. A fourth of this
by 2030, companies selling textiles Hirdaramani Group in Sri Lanka, and money is for making raw materials
to the EU must meet standards for Singapore-based Ramatex, are already better and more innovative, a third for
durability, absence of hazardous making progress in sustainability. improving sourcing, processing, and
substances, and use mainly recyclable making processes, and 20% for dealing
H&M helps its suppliers to use
materials. This framework will impact with textile waste.
renewable energy and green practices by
Asian manufacturers, who supply over
starting initiatives such as the Fashion The Green Climate Fund and
70% of the EU’s textiles.
Climate Fund. Moreover, H&M programs like the International
The plan is still not a law, but it will created the Sustainable Supplier Facility Finance Corporation’s Advisory
become one soon. Some European initiative, which invites other brands Partnership for Cleaner Textile
fashion brands agree with the plan and to join in helping apparel suppliers to (PaCT) are providing some funding
want to improve how they make and lower their carbon emissions. for sustainable practices in textile
use fashion. H&M supports the EU’s production. However, there is a call
Nicole van der Elst Desai, a textile
initiative, acknowledging the necessity for fashion companies to invest more
innovation expert from Singapore
for a shift in how fashion is produced in research and development for
who works with Forum for the
and consumed. Sheng Lu, who teaches circular solutions.
Future, says that some manufacturers
fashion and apparel studies at the
are doing well because they have used Asian manufacturers excel at
University of Delaware in the U.S., says
new technology. producing low-cost products in bulk.
that the new strategy holds significant
However, in the new age of slow
importance, as Asian companies will There is a pressing need for increased
fashion, consumers may prefer fewer
need to adhere to various aspects of the knowledge, know-how, and financial
products in limited quantities but
plan to continue selling their products in support for manufacturers to
made from eco-friendly materials,
Europe in the future. transition to a circular business
which implies that Asian nations may
model. Fashion for Good and Boston
Manufacturers in Asia are seeking not be the best option for sourcing
Consulting Group estimated in 2020
to reduce water use, cut down on products any longer.

November 2023
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 5
Bananatex : Sustainable ®

fabric for a circular future

Faujia Mushtari

Bananatex® is a groundbreaking fabric that has Diverse Fabric Collection

redefined the landscape of sustainable materials, setting
Bananatex® offers a versatile range of fabrics,
new standards in environmental, economic, and social
each embodying the exceptional qualities of this
responsibility. Developed through a collaborative
groundbreaking material.
effort by Swiss bag brand QWSTION, Taiwanese yarn
specialists, and weaving partners, this fabric has emerged In the lightweight category, options include Bananatex®
as a remarkable example of responsible innovation. Its Natural White LW Poplin DWR and Bananatex® Natural
journey from cultivation in the lush Philippine highlands White LW Poplin Coated. For mediumweight applications,
to recognition on the global stage is a testament to its there’s Bananatex® Natural White MW Oxford DWR,
transformative impact on the fashion and textile industry. Bananatex® All Black MW Oxford DWR, Bananatex®
Gravel MW Oxford DWR, and a range of other variations.
Sustainability Rooted in the Philippines The heavyweight option, Bananatex® All Black HW Twill
DWR, caters to more robust requirements. This diversity
Bananatex® finds its roots in the Philippines, where the
in fabric options opens the door to an array of applications,
Abacá banana plant is cultivated in a natural ecosystem of
showcasing Bananatex®’s versatility.
sustainable mixed agriculture and forestry.

From Plant to Fabric: The Transformative Circular Sustainability

Journey The concept of circularity is integral to the ethos of
The creation of Bananatex® is a meticulous process, Bananatex®. To minimize waste and generate post-user
involving several crucial steps. Harvesting the Abacá value, the company has laid the groundwork for a closed
plants starts with careful topping and tumbling, with the technical recycling system. While recycling volumes have
decomposing leaves acting as natural fertilizers. Skilled not been significant due to the novelty of Bananatex®
artisans then strip the plants to extract fine, resilient products in the market, the company actively encourages
fibers, ensuring high quality. These raw fibers are sorted at its partners to initiate similar projects to create a fully
cooperative warehouses before being circular ecosystem.
sent to a Taiwanese paper mill In addition to recycling, Bananatex® can also be
for transformation into yarn. decomposed in composting facilities or through traditional
The yarn, colored using kitchen composting methods. Moreover, it has undergone
sustainable methods lab testing to evaluate its biodegradability for industrial
in the case of the All composting and marine conditions, further enhancing its
Black colorway, is eco-friendliness.
then processed for
its intended use, Global Recognition and Certifications
resulting in the
Since its launch in October 2018, Bananatex® has
remarkable Bananatex®
garnered international recognition for its contribution to
fabric. The Natural White
sustainability and design. Notable accolades include the
version retains its natural
Green Product Award 2019, the Design Prize Switzerland
color, eliminating
Award 2019/20, and the German Sustainability Award
the need for
Design 2021. However, a significant milestone was
additional
achieved in December 2021 when Bananatex® was
dyeing and
awarded the prestigious Cradle to Cradle Certified® Gold
preserving
designation for various colors, including Natural White,
its inherent
All Black, Gravel, Asphalt, and their respective durable
beauty.
Figure: MCM Sommer Bucket Hat in Bananatex®. water repellent (DWR) versions.

6 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy November 2023

Double-digit demand growth of recycled polyester &
nylon in next 5 years, New report predicts
M A Mohiemen Tanim

Figure: Recycled material is now growing global concern. Courtesy: China Eco Fiber

A new report from Textile Exchange predicts that the break down polyester and nylon into their basic building
demand for recycled polyester and nylon will grow by blocks, which can then be used to make new products.
double digits in the next five years. The report, titled
• The recycling industry is investing heavily in new
“Materials Market Report 2023,” forecasts that the global
infrastructure, such as sorting facilities and reprocessing
fiber market will reach $1.1 trillion by 2030, with recycled
plants. This is making it easier and more cost-effective to
fibers accounting for a growing share.
collect and recycle polyester and nylon.
The report cites several factors driving the • Consumers are demanding more transparency about the
growth of recycled materials, including: origins of the materials used in the products they buy.
This is leading to the development of new certification
• Consumers are increasingly aware of the environmental
schemes and traceability systems for recycled materials.
impact of the fashion industry and are demanding more
sustainable products. • The report concludes that the demand for recycled
polyester and nylon is likely to continue to grow in the
• Governments around the world are implementing
coming years. This presents a significant opportunity
policies to promote the use of recycled materials, such
for businesses that can provide high-quality recycled
as bans on single-use plastics and extended producer
materials and products.
responsibility schemes.
Some challenges need to be addressed to meet the growing
• The cost of recycled materials has been falling in recent
demand for recycled materials. These challenges include:
years, making them more competitive with virgin
materials. • The current supply of recycled materials is not enough to
meet the growing demand.
• New technologies are being developed to improve the
quality and performance of recycled materials. • The cost of recycling materials is still higher than the cost
of producing virgin materials.
This growth is being driven by several factors, including:
• Many consumers are still not aware of the benefits of
• Recycled polyester and nylon are now being used in a
recycled materials
variety of products, including clothing, sportswear, home
furnishings, and automotive parts. The report concludes that the future is bright for the
recycled materials market. With continued investment
• New technologies are being developed that make it easier
in innovation and infrastructure, the recycled materials
and more efficient to recycle polyester and nylon. For
market has the potential to make a significant contribution
example, a new process called “chemical recycling” can
to a more sustainable future.

November 2023
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 7
Secondhand Clothing: A Sustainable
and Socially Responsible Choice for
Fashion Lovers
Homayra Anjumi Hoque

Figure: Secondhand is becoming popular due to concern about sustainability Courtesy: Business Insider

Buying second-hand clothes is one of the most sustainable Speaking of fashion, Boston Consulting Group (BCG)
ways to shop. For Generation Z, secondhand clothing is estimates that the second-hand and luxury market, which
the trendiest fashion practice as we can see. According to includes the resale of clothing, shoes, and accessories,
thredUP’s 2021 Resale Report, the second-hand market is worth between $100 billion and $120 billion USD
is expected to double within five years, to $77 billion. worldwide. BCG found that while buyers typically
Additionally, 76% of the 33 million people who bought enter the second-hand market through handbags before
used clothes in 2020 plan to increase their spending on moving on to clothing and eventually jewelry, demand for
used clothes in the next five years. According to a report second-hand clothing is very evident, with used clothes
from GlobalData, the resale market has grown 53.3% over accounting for 25% of the average consumer’s total
the past five years. second-hand wardrobe.

The secondhand clothing market constitutes a slice of Motivators Behind the second-hand marketing ( From
a larger pie –called the resale market. While a few years buyer’s perspective):
ago, secondhand items used to be traded mainly on flea
markets and in thrift shops, today much of the trading Sustainability and circularity:
has shifted to online platforms. Both fashion industry Although emissions increase due to the logistics of
and non-fashion businesses have been pioneering resale moving used products between new owners, resale models
models over recent years. generally outperform “take, make, throw” tradition on
most environmental indicators. Resale models encourage
The trend has even caught up with giants in the game
companies to design more sustainable products.
with famous retailer IKEA launching a take-back offering
as well as a secondhand pop-up store two years back. It Product durability is a necessary prerequisite for model
is estimated that by 2025, the resale sector will grow 10 resale, as a longer product life cycle allows new owners
times faster than traditional retail. By 2030, nearly one in to resell more frequently. This sets a new target with
five items in people’s wardrobes will be occasion items. implications for designing products that last longer,

8 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy November 2023

requiring clothing to be made from sustainable clothing. of resources. Pre-owned clothes have already been made
and used, which reduces both carbon footprint and waste.
The technology involved in this process must follow a
Furthermore, most physical and online second-hand
modular design that allows resale companies to easily
stores operate on a circular economy model, supporting a
repair and replace parts. The focus on designing for resale
different system.
has spurred innovation and led to better product quality.
What High-end brands are doing for this
Saving money:
practice?
Second-hand shopping can ensure saving an incredible
Renowned brands like Burberry and Gucci are partnering
amount of money. Buyers have to never pay anywhere
with consignment services like The RealReal to collect
near full price. It’s so helpful when anyone is seeking for a
and resell their pre-owned products. The consumers
high-quality brand for trust issues.
can also directly sell used luxury goods to their peers on
Unique Clothing style: The majority of second hand platforms such as Vestiaire Collective. At the same time,
clothing found in thrift stores is completely unique and like buyers, private sellers are often driven by financial
sold at extremely low prices. The chances of there being motives while cleaning out their closets.
two of the same item in the same thrift store or in other
Some companies are adopting a special approach to
thrift stores are slim to none. Especially for vintage
implement their resale business models. Many traditional
clothing, it’s sometimes impossible to find the same piece
companies which started engaging in resale business
ever again. For those who are demanding one-of-a-kind
initially launched pilots and spin-off solutions that kept
types of clothes, second-hand shopping can be a greater
the main business separate but allowed the company to
option.
have lighthouse projects where they could learn how to
Defining luxury and slow fashion at the same time: cope with a new but different business.
Luxury don’t come with fast fashion, rather it comes
Both H&M and Zalando introduced independent
from elegancy and vintage styling habit. Today’s Gen Z
platforms for selling quality-controlled pre-owned
are mostly aware of crucial impacts of fast fashion. On
fashion – H&M’s Sellpy and Zalando’s Zirkle. Players
the other hand, this generation is more likely to style up
like Lulumelon, Cos and Isabel Marant also claim to have
with aristocracy and elegancy. As the practice of shopping
seen success selling collections on their websites and in
second-hand from thrift stores is increasing day by day,
their stores, aided by in-house capabilities or white-label
more people are becoming likelier to choose this trend.
solutions. In fact, Isabel Marant reported that two-third
Step Away from Overconsumption to Help the Planet: of its second hand buyers became its new direct clients
Overconsumption, fueled by fast fashion, has become within one year of launching its vintage resale arm.
a real scourge for our planet, fashion enthusiasts
In retail, responding to shifting demands with more
keep concern about that. In the past decade, clothing
sustainable offerings can attract new customers and also
consumption has increased by 60%. New collections every
improve customer loyalty. Resale business models can also
season, or even every month, low prices, and non-durable
help in creating a so-called lock-in pattern. For example,
clothes, Each year, the world consumes about 130 billion
in exchange for used products, some companies offer their
items of clothing. Production rates have become insane.
customers vouchers that can only be used in-store. This helps
A pair of jeans can travel the equivalent of 1.5 times the customers gain new value from used assets and the sales
around the earth from the cotton field to the retail store loop stays closed within the retailer business ecosystem, also
where they’re sold. This is an enormous over consumption generating new revenue streams for the resellers.

Motivators Behind the second-hand marketing ( From buyer’s perspective):

Sustainability and circularity
Saving money
Unique Clothing style
Defining luxury and slow fashion at the same time
Step Away from Overconsumption to Help the Planet

November 2023
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 9
With some creative planning, a common screen-
printed white underbase can be used with varying

digital print data to produce completely different

images in the same print run. It can also result in

savings in the production process in various aspects.

Digital Squeegee inks can be cured in conventional

gas dryers, such as the Sprint® 3000, Sprint 3000

D, and Sprint 3000 DHZ

Space Fabric: NASA’s “Scale Maille”
– A Fabric from the Future
M A Mohiemen Tanim

Figure: NASA's "Scale Maille" , courtesy: NASA

Imagine a fabric woven from the threads of the future, into expansive solar sails, propelling spacecraft with the
one that protects like armor, adapts like a chameleon, and power of the sun. It can morph into deployable antennas,
unfolds like a magician’s trick. This is no longer a figment transmitting vital signals across celestial distances. And
of science fiction, but a reality forged in the laboratories when astronauts venture into the hostile environments of
of NASA. Inspired by the intricate links of ancient other worlds, Scale Maille can shield them from the harsh
chainmail, Scale Maille is a metallic fabric crafted from a elements, acting as a resilient and adaptable second skin.
single sheet of stainless steel. However, unlike its medieval
While Scale Maille’s potential in the realm of space
counterpart, this modern marvel is not bound by welds or
exploration is undeniable, its impact extends far beyond
rivets. Instead, an innovative 3D printing process extrudes
the cosmos. Its unique combination of strength, flexibility,
the metal, creating a sheet adorned with two distinct faces.
and adaptability offers limitless possibilities in the textile
The front face of Scale Maille is a glistening array of industry. Imagine garments that seamlessly transition from
interlocking squares, reminiscent of a mosaic. These providing warmth to allowing for optimal ventilation.
squares, polished to a mirror finish, excel at reflecting Picture protective gear that is both lightweight and
heat and light. Imagine a spacecraft cloaked in this fabric, impenetrable. Envision building materials that are both
gracefully gliding through the scorching heat of the sun, robust and easily deployable.
its shimmering surface deflecting harmful radiation.
The possibilities are endless, and the future of textiles is
The reverse side of the fabric reveals its hidden secret: poised for a transformative shift. Scale Maille stands at
a network of tiny, flexible hinges that connect each the forefront of this revolution, paving the way for a new
square. These hinges allow the fabric to fold and unfold generation of fabrics that adapt to our needs, protect us
with remarkable ease, transforming from a rigid shield from harm, and empower us to explore the frontiers of
into a pliable sheet. science and technology.

This unique duality grants Scale Maille unparalleled The heart of Scale Maille lies in its innovative 3D printing
versatility. In the vast expanse of space, it can unfurl process. Unlike traditional printing methods that layer

12 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy November 2023

material upon itself, Scale Maille utilizes a technique Architecture: Scale Maille could revolutionize the way we
known as “additive manufacturing.” This process involves design and construct buildings. Imagine walls that adapt to
strategically depositing molten stainless steel onto a surface, the sun’s position, maximizing natural light and reducing
building the fabric’s intricate structure layer by layer. energy consumption. Picture roofs that unfold automatically
to provide shade during peak sunlight hours. These dynamic
The intricate geometry of Scale Maille is key to its unique
structures could create comfortable and energy-efficient
properties. The flat, mirror-like squares on the fabric’s front
buildings without compromising on aesthetics.
face are strategically arranged and sized to ensure optimal
heat and light reflection. This design not only protects Sports and Recreation: Imagine athletes wearing apparel that
astronauts and spacecraft from harmful radiation but also adapts to their body temperature and activity level, providing
holds the potential for creating highly efficient solar sails. optimal comfort and performance. Picture cyclists wearing
aerodynamically optimized Scale Maille suits that reduce
But the true magic lies in the hidden network of hinges on
wind resistance while still allowing for optimal ventilation.
the backside. These hinges, meticulously crafted during
This innovative fabric could usher in a new era of sports and
the 3D printing process, are designed to be both strong
recreation, pushing the boundaries of human potential.
and flexible. This allows the fabric to fold and unfold with
remarkable ease, making it highly adaptable and versatile. Medical Applications: The intricate origami-like structures
made possible by Scale Maille could be used to create
This combination of heat-resistant squares and flexible
next-generation medical devices. Imagine surgical
hinges unlocks a plethora of potential applications.
instruments that fold and unfold with precision, allowing
Imagine buildings with deployable walls that adjust to the
for minimally invasive procedures. Picture implants that
sun’s position, maximizing natural light and optimizing
adapt to the body’s needs, promoting healing and recovery.
energy consumption. Picture sports apparel that adapts to
These advancements could revolutionize healthcare,
changes in temperature and activity levels, offering both
improving patient outcomes and reducing recovery times.
comfort and protection. Envision medical devices with
intricate origami-like structures, capable of performing Metamaterials: Scientists are exploring the use of Scale
intricate surgical procedures with minimal invasiveness. Maille to create metamaterials – engineered materials with
tailored properties. Imagine materials that absorb or reflect
The possibilities extend beyond the realm of physical
specific wavelengths of light, creating cloaking devices or
applications. Scale Maille’s unique properties can be
enhanced sensors. Picture materials with unique electrical
harnessed to create next-generation metamaterials with
or magnetic properties, enabling advancements in fields
tailored electrical, magnetic, and even optical properties. This
like wireless communication and renewable energy.
opens doors for advancements in solar energy harvesting,
wireless communication, and even stealth technology. Fashion and Design: Scale Maille’s unique aesthetics
and flexibility could revolutionize the fashion and design
Developing such revolutionary applications, however,
industry. Imagine garments that change color and texture
requires a deep understanding of the material’s behavior.
with the touch of a button. Picture accessories that morph
Researchers are actively studying Scale Maille’s mechanical
into different shapes and sizes. This innovative fabric
properties, thermal conductivity, and electrical resistance.
could offer designers endless possibilities for creating truly
This data is crucial for optimizing the fabric’s design and
unique and dynamic pieces.
ensuring its performance in specific applications.
Environmental Sustainability: Scale Maille’s lightweight
The research extends beyond the material itself. Scientists
and durable nature could contribute to a more sustainable
are exploring new 3D printing techniques that can create
future. Imagine buildings that require less material to
even more intricate and functional structures.
construct and offer improved energy efficiency. Picture
Let’s take a leap into the future and envision the impact airplanes that are lighter and more fuel-efficient thanks to
this revolutionary fabric could have on various industries: their Scale Maille components. These applications could
reduce our environmental footprint and contribute to a
Space Exploration: For astronauts venturing into the
more sustainable future.
unknown, Scale Maille offers unparalleled protection and
versatility. Imagine spacecraft adorned with this shimmering The development of Scale Maille is still in its early stages,
fabric, reflecting the harsh radiation of the sun while also but the possibilities are boundless. This innovative fabric
acting as deployable solar sails, harnessing the sun’s energy has the potential to revolutionize the way we live, work,
for propulsion. On alien planets, astronauts could don suits and explore the world. With continued research and
made of Scale Maille, shielded from the elements yet able to development, Scale Maille promises to be a cornerstone of
move with ease thanks to the fabric’s flexibility. a brighter and more advanced future.

November 2023
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 13
German Smart Technologies on
show at ITMA Asia + CITME
Sayed Abdullah

ITMA ASIA + CITME, Asia’s leading

trade fair for textile machinery, taking
place in Shanghai, is once again
marked by a considerable presence
of VDMA member companies. The
round about 40 exhibiting VDMA
members cover nearly all different
machinery chapters with a focus
on spinning and manmade fibers,
nonwovens, weaving, braiding, knitting
& hosiery, finishing & dyeing and
textile processing. They are part of a
strong German presence with a total
of around 60 German exhibitors –
including non-machine manufacturers.
Figure: At the ITMA Asia press conference, VDMA leadership asserted that member
companies focusing on smart technologies.
The VDMA Textile Machinery
facts and figures about the German assessed their current business
Association and VDMA China will
textile machinery industry. Between situation as either good (6%) or
be present in the industry hub in
January and August 2023, the overall satisfactory (69%). For the coming
Hall 8 zone B. Since the strict travel
exports of textile machinery and quarter, 50% of the companies see the
restrictions are over, the VDMA team
accessories summed up to 1.7 billion market to decline. Asked about the
in Shanghai will be staffed again with
euros, which was a slight decrease business situation during the next six
both colleagues from the VDMA
compared to the same period in 2022. months, 44% of the companies expect
headquarters in Germany and from
The shipping to almost all major the market to remain stable, 56%
VDMA China.
markets decreased between January and expect the situation to become worse.
During a press conference on the August: China: 440 million € (2022: This is also reflected in the HR of the
first day of the show, Dr. Janpeter 453 million €), Turkey: 205 million € companies: 63% expect the number of
Horn, chairman of the VDMA (2022: 265 million €), USA: 177 million employees to remain unchanged.
Textile Machinery Association and € (2022: 144 million
managing director of August Herzog €), India: 170 million €
Maschinenfabrik expressed: “After (2022: 228 million €).
years of cancelled or postponed
Numerous VDMA “At Oerlikon, we contribute with our innovative
trade fairs and travel restrictions,
member companies technologies for resource-saving use in almost all
this year’s ITMA ASIA + CITME
have production sites manmade fiber spinning mills in the world. Our promise
is the first edition of the show that
in the major Asian for the future is to continue to expand the zero-waste
can be attended not just by Chinese
markets China and production approach and thus take care of achieving
but by visitors from various countries
India and serve their our customers’ and our own sustainability [Link]
and regions. The event is a good
customers in these sets out the claim of one of the world’s leading suppliers
opportunity to meet customers and
countries from there. of machinery and plant solutions for manmade fiber
partners again in person and not just
A latest VDMA production not only for this show: In the future, it will be
on a screen. ITMA ASIA + CITME
business climate solely a matter of sustainable innovations.”
provides a good chance to deepen the
survey among the
already good relations with China and
other Asian countries further and to
textile machinery Georg Stausberg
companies in China CEO of the Polymer Processing Solutions
set-up new partnerships.”
showed, that 75% Division and Chief Sustainability Officer of
Dr. Horn continued to present latest the Oerlikon Group.
of all participants

14 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy November 2023

Reimagining Textile Waste in India: A
Conference to Accelerate Circularity
Arif Hossain

Figure: 'Reimagining Textile Waste in India' will be held on 1-2 December 2023 in New Delhi, India

Fashion for Good, Canopy, IDH, and Laudes Foundation Infinited Fiber Company, Worn Again Technologies,
are joining forces to host Reimagining Textile Waste in Reverse Resources, TOMRA, PICVISA, and Matoha
India, a two-day conference taking place on December Instrumentation Ltd. Together, these stakeholders will
1-2, 2023, in New Delhi, India. This landmark event explore strategies to transform India into a leading
marks the official closure of the Sorting for Circularity recycling destination and a global next-gen hub for
Project India and heralds the launch of Re-START circularity.
ALLIANCE, a textile recovery alliance established by the
As per recent data, India generates a significant amount
four founding partners with catalytic funding from Laudes
of textile waste, with 3,265 KTons of pre-consumer waste,
Foundation.
3,944 KTons of post-consumer domestic waste, and
The conference will unveil a toolkit for valorizing textile 584 KTons of imported waste. Despite the potential for
waste in India, building upon the findings of the Wealth recycling, a substantial portion of this waste ends up in
in Waste report released last year. A series of sessions will landfills, posing environmental concerns. However, the
delve into the current textile waste landscape in India, textile recycling market in India is projected to expand
exploring chemical recycling and sorting technologies, rapidly, reaching US$375 million by 2028, indicating a
brand engagement, and the financing environment that growing recognition of the need for sustainable waste
will drive India’s circular transition. management solutions in the textile industry.

Attendees
will hear from Key Highlights of the Conference
pioneering brands
and suppliers, • Celebration of the Sorting for Circularity Project India’s successful completion
governmental • Launch of Re-START ALLIANCE, a textile recovery alliance committed to accelerating
actors, sorters, circularity in India

financiers, • Unveiling of a toolkit for valorizing textile waste in India

and disruptive • In-depth sessions on the current textile waste landscape, cutting-edge technologies,
innovators, brand engagement, and the financing environment for circularity in India
including Circ®, • Insights from pioneering brands, suppliers, government representatives, sorters,
Renewcell, financiers, and disruptive innovators

November 2023
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 15
Jeanologia transforms denim
design with eDesigner
Sayed Abdullah

Jeanologia is boosting digitalization

in eco-design with a new version of its
eDesigner software.

Since its development in 2020, this

innovative software for the digital
creation of jeans has situated itself
as the creative and eco-efficient
technological alternative to traditional
denim design, shaping the future of
garment finishing.

The perfect editor for

denim design
The new version of eDesigner offers a
more intuitive user interface, as well as
tools specific to jean design, providing
a unique design experience. Worth Figure: The new version of eDesigner offers a more intuitive user interface, as well as tools specific to jean design,
providing a unique design experience.
highlighting is the “Trace” tool, which
uses artificial intelligence to generate means significant savings in terms that connects laser designers with
hyper-realistic designs from a single of resources, but also a substantial wash developers and brands with
image. reduction in the carbon footprint manufacturers. In this way, it speeds
generated by the transportation of up the production and marketing of
Access to Jeanologia’s samples. collections.
know-how
The user can create digital cufflinks, Once the design is finalized and the
eDesigner also provides designers combining digital patterns (eFit) with collection approved, the tool provides
with a valuable source of inspiration digital fabrics (eFabric), and partake in final digital files, which can be sent
and expertise through its Lightbrary, a truly authentic experience, as he or to production centers around the
which gives users access to an she will be able to analyze the results world to be converted into actual jean
extensive gallery of laser designs, of wash applications on the fabrics. production.
vintage designs, wash effects, textures,
tear and fray gallery, as well as a The perfect partner for More than simply software,
“Discover” section with trends and the digitization of the eDesigner is an eco-efficient digital
inspirational designs. transformation tool, destined to
development process
revolutionize the textile industry and
Jeanologia thus will share its know- eDesigner acts as a fluid and agile contribute to its transformation into
how with designers, who will be able two-way communication channel a more competitive, productive and
to create things from scratch or build
on previous designs as a starting point
for new creations.

Digital wash “Thanks to this tool we’ll enable infinite iterations at zero cost and impact, while
standardizing formats and communication. We’ll improve production processes by
The new eDesigner takes digitization
making them more efficient and accelerate time-to-market, since we go from design,
to the next level, enabling the digital
to sample and approval in a very short time.”
creation of patterns and garments
and in doing so, reduces physical
Carmen Silla
Jeanologia’s Marketing Director
samples by 80 percent. This not only

16 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy November 2023

Recover™ partners with EuRIC to
advance EU textile recycling policies
Amena Kamal Khan

Figure: Recover™ joined EuRIC Textiles with the aim to support EU institutions in framing these policies that will enhance textile recycling. Courtesy: Recover™

Recover™ – a leader in Materials science – has joined the recycling industries and other circular economy
European Recycling Industries’ Confederation (EuRIC) stakeholders, to act as a trusted partner between the
Textiles with the aim to support EU institutions in framing European recycling value chain and policymakers and to
these policies that will enhance Europe’s economic growth provide specific and cross-sectoral expertise on a broad
while considering the perspective of textile recyclers. range of materials.

The move will see the fibre-to-fibre recycling specialist Euric Textiles was traditionally dominated by sorters aimed
help frame economic growth policies that consider the at facilitating reuse, but now Euric is witnessing a growing
perspective of textile recyclers. involvement of recyclers, both mechanical and chemical.
EuRIC Textiles members come from various European
Through this collaboration, Recover™ can contribute
countries and are active in the collection, sorting, preparing
to shaping key EU policies and regulations that impact
for re-use, recycling, transport, and marketing of used
the recycling sector such as the End of Waste Criteria,
textiles, shoes, and accessories, gaining representation in the
the Waste Shipment Regulation, and the Ecodesign for
whole textile and footwear recycling value chain.
Sustainable Products Regulation.
While EuRIC Textiles’ primary focus will be on
This partnership allows Recover™ to participate in
promoting, representing, and protecting the collective
working groups to formulate industry positions and
interests of the European textiles reuse and recycling
acquire legal and technical support on EU regulatory
industry, it also seeks to cultivate collaborative ties with
matters. Also, our involvement in EuRIC Textiles enables
the textile industry, thus exploring mutual objectives.
our participation in high-level European recycling events,
offering a platform for engagement among industry At national level, Recover™ Spain is also joining
leaders, policymakers, and innovators to explore the path FER (Federación Española de la Recuperación y el
towards a more sustainable and circular textile sector. Reciclaje). FER is the Spanish recyclers association
and a member of EuRIC. This association enables
EuRIC Textiles (European Recycling Industries’
Recover™ to be in touch with important stakeholders
Confederation) aims to be the leading voice for a
in the Spanish textile recycling value chain, such as
competitive European recycling industry, enabling the
collectors, sorters, or other recyclers. In this sense, we
circular economy and preserving resources for future
can work together to provide a better understanding of
generations.
textile recycling to the textile sector in Spain.
Their main objectives are to connect the European

November 2023
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 17
‘SHEIN’ singly controls USA’s 40% fast
fashion Shein's on-demand business
model is reason for its low prices
M A Mohiemen Tanim

SHEIN, a Chinese fast fashion company, has become SHEIN'S

a major player in the US market. According to a recent
report, SHEIN now controls 40% of the fast fashion market
SHEIN ON DEMAND BUSINESS MODEL

in the US. This is a significant increase from just a few years Explained
ago, when SHEIN was a relatively unknown brand.

1
One of the reasons for SHEIN’s success is its low prices. SHEIN designers create
The company is able to sell its clothes for much cheaper new designs based on
than its competitors because it uses an on-demand data from popular items.

business model. This means that SHEIN only produces a

2
small number of each item, based on customer demand.
SHEIN only initially
This helps to reduce waste and keep costs down. produces 100 to 200
units of each new
SHEIN’s on-demand business model has also been product.
criticized. Some critics have said that it leads to worker
abuse. In 2021, an investigation by the Wall Street Journal
found that SHEIN suppliers were paying workers as little
as $1.50 per hour. 3 SHEIN uses technology
that monitors users'
engagement activity.

Despite these criticisms, SHEIN remains a popular brand

4
among young consumers.
When a customer
What is SHEIN’s on-demand business shows interest in an
item, SHEIN takes note.
model?
SHEIN’s on-demand business model is a system in which

5
the company only produces a small number of each item, SHEIN creates new
designs based on data
based on customer demand. This helps to reduce waste from popular items.
and keep costs down.

6
What are the criticisms of SHEIN’s on- If an item is popular,
demand business model? SHEIN starts
producing more.
SHEIN’s on-demand business model has been criticized
for leading to worker abuse and environmental impact.
SHEIN has said that it is committed to improving its labor
• Worker abuse: Some critics have said that SHEIN’s on- practices and environmental impact. The company has
demand business model leads to worker abuse because it released a number of reports detailing its efforts to address
puts pressure on suppliers to produce clothes quickly and these issues. However, some critics have said that SHEIN
cheaply. This can lead to workers being paid low wages needs to do more to be transparent about its supply chain
and working long hours. and to ensure that its workers are being treated fairly.

• Environmental impact: SHEIN’s fast fashion model SHEIN’s on-demand business model is a complex issue
produces a lot of waste. The company’s clothes are with both benefits and drawbacks. On the one hand, it
often made from cheap, synthetic materials that are not helps to reduce waste and keep costs down. On the other
biodegradable. This means that they end up in landfills, hand, it has been criticized for leading to worker abuse
where they can take hundreds of years to decompose. and environmental impact. It remains to be seen whether
SHEIN can address these criticisms and continue to grow
What is SHEIN doing to address these
its business in a sustainable and ethical way.
criticisms?
18 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy November 2023
Adobe’s Project Primrose: Interactive dress
changes color & pattern in real time
Md. Hasan

The fashion lovers’ urge to own dresses that can change

colors and patterns so that they do not needed to fill their
wardrobe with countless dresses. Surprisingly, this isn’t far
from reality as some companies have started working on it
and have achieved amazing developments.

Recently, Adobe made waves at the Adobe MAX 2023

event in Los Angeles when it launched Project Primrose,
a revolutionary interactive dress that can transform design
and style in a matter of seconds. Researcher Christine
Dierk led the presentation. Viewers were both confused
and surprised after observing the dress’s remarkable
capabilities.
Fig: The color changes as the model’s movement and reaction.

Although Adobe is primarily known for its innovative

different in two notable ways:
and cutting-edge software suites, the company surprised
attendees at the Adobe MAX 2023 conference with the 1. First, it did away with electronic ink or conventional
discovery of something they’ve been secretly developing. screens for something more reflective and eye-catching.
A host walked onto the stage in a seemingly normal dress,
2. Second, it combines this technology with its own design
only to shock viewers when the dress suddenly changed
software, showing how the industry will enable future
from translucent white to reflective.
designers to design on new surfaces.
The individual components of the dress then change
color, creating unique patterns that allow the wearer to
Interactive fashion with Instant
effectively change their outfit in real time Called Project transformation:
Primrose, the interactive dress uses a “reflective light What sets Project Primrose apart is its ability to
diffusion module” to create a flexible, emission-free change depending on the user’s movement. As Dierk
display system. demonstrated on stage, the dress included multiple small-
scale screens that could change appearance at the press of
Adobe Project Primrose: How the dress
a button. The audience watched the transition of the dress
changes style from color to one color to another, a shimmering metallic
With the press of a button, the special Project Primrose silver very smoothly. The dress continues to stun with
dress, covered in scales, begins to change style at Dierk’s its series of transformations, transforming its scales into
command. But it doesn’t stop there; This outfit can also a variety of patterns, from V-shaped stripes to intricate
understand how the wearer moves and make the design diamond patterns.
move in sync. The system developed by Adobe uses
Dierk, the genius behind the dress, revealed that it could
reflective polymer dispersed liquid crystal (PDLC), an
do more than change the color and pattern; it can come
electroactive substance commonly used in smart window
alive with animation. A simple button press activates
technology. This energy-efficient, non-emitting material
amazing movement patterns, further blurring the lines
can be easily customized into different shapes and has
between fashion and technology. What’s even more
flexible light diffusion capabilities, far beyond what e-ink
appealing is the skirt’s buttonless mode, which relies
and other technologies offer.
on built-in sensors, providing a smooth and intuitive
Speaking of e-ink, this isn’t the first time vivid color- experience.
changing designs are witnessed. At CES 2022, BMW
Adobe’s creation is paving the way for a fashion
introduced the iX Flow concept model that can change
revolution, where clothes can change with a simple
color in real-time. The technology dates back to 2017
command or move with the person wearing them. It’s
when Sony introduced an e-ink-powered FES Watch
undoubtedly a fantastic blend of fashion and technology.
that could also change its design. What Adobe did was

November 2023
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 19
CHT awarded as Top Performer by
Adidas for sustainable chemicals
Rahbar Hossain

CHT Group, a global leader in

sustainable chemical products for the
textile industry, has been awarded the
“Top Performer” title by Adidas AG in
its latest evaluation of suppliers. The
award recognizes CHT’s commitment
to sustainability and innovation, as well
as its leadership in the development and
implementation of sustainable chemical
management practices.

CHT’s portfolio of products includes

98% ZDHC Level 3 auxiliaries and
colorants, making it the preferred
partner for the sustainable chemical
treatment of certifiable brand products.
value chain, and our efforts have been impressively
The company also invests heavily in research and
confirmed here. I am very pleased that this performance
development, with the goal of making the entire textile
is underpinned by a major brand such as adidas. This
value chain more sustainable.
motivates us to continue on our path to support and
In 2022, CHT generated 77% of its total sales with accompany our customers in producing more sustainable
sustainably classified products. The company’s customers textiles,” Benoit Moutault, Group Vice President of CHT.
benefit from its comprehensive know-how and the highest
To this end, CHT fully supports its customers and
technical expertise in machine application.
business partners and invests extensively in compliance
and regulatory measures. Especially in the textile sector,
CHT drives innovation the group of companies cooperates with all renowned
According to CHT’s own self-image, being innovative means standards and labels. Among others bluesign®, C2C, or
taking responsibility for the future. For this reason, the GOTS. Especially in the context of the ZDHC program,
Tübingen-based company pursues a strategy of sustainable CHT is a global leader. More than 2200 products certified
product ranges in all business areas. CHT also supports its by CHT currently reach LEVEL 3, the highest possible
customers with comprehensive individual application advice level for safe textile chemistry. It is particularly noteworthy
for maximum sustainable success at all levels. that this includes textile

auxiliaries (70 %) as well as dyes and pigments (30 %).

CHT feels home in textile standards
This is a big plus for textile customers of the CHT Group,
In this regard, CHT has already been active as a ZDHC who get everything from a single source. In addition,
Contributor since 2019 with a comprehensive range of CHT Group was one of the driving forces when a group
more than 2200 certified products. Of these, 70 % are of 10 internationally renowned chemical companies
textile auxiliaries and 30 % are dyes in the portfolio that are decided to become ZDHC Contributors in the summer of
certified to Level 3 ZDHC, bluesign®, or C2C standards. 2019. Together, ZDHC members develop and implement
methods and tools for safer chemical management. To
With high-performance products and comprehensive
conserve
technical application advice, CHT offers textile producers
the opportunity to supply brands and retailers with resources and the environment, and to protect people and
demonstrably sustainably produced textiles at the highest nature.
level.
CHT Group is involved in several ZDHC task teams and
“I am proud of this great achievement. Our strategy is is also a member of the ZDHC internal Chemical Industry
consistently geared to the sustainability of the textile Advisory Group (CIAG).

20 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy November 2023

Fulgar’s AMNI SOUL ECO® Yarn
Combats Microplastic Pollution
for Sustainable Fashion
Md. Emon

In a world grappling with environmental challenges, moisture management, and excellent color yield.
Fulgar, an Italian leader in man-made yarn production,
Prestigious fashion brands like Herno, Colmar, and Save
is taking strides towards sustainable fashion with
the Duck have already chosen AMNI SOUL ECO® for
its innovative AMNI SOUL ECO® yarn. This bio-
their collections, recognizing their reliability, versatility,
degradable polyamide yarn tackles the growing problem
and ability to redefine sustainable fashion standards
of microplastics, offering a solution that prioritizes both
without sacrificing style or performance.
performance and environmental responsibility.
Fulgar’s dedication to sustainability extends beyond
Microplastics, tiny fragments of plastic less than five
AMNI SOUL ECO®. The company boasts a robust
millimeters in size, are a major threat to marine life and
portfolio of eco-conscious yarns, including Q-Nova®
biodiversity. AMNI SOUL ECO® addresses this issue
regenerated yarn, bio-based Evo® yarn, and Q-CYCLE®,
directly. Tests confirm that microplastics released when
a yarn derived from recycled plastic waste. Their
washing garments made with this yarn decompose twenty
commitment to R&D and environmental responsibility
times faster in the marine environment compared to
has earned them a leading position in the sustainable
conventional synthetic yarns. This significantly reduces
fashion industry
their harmful impact on our oceans and ecosystems.
AMNI SOUL ECO® represents a significant step forward
Despite its focus on sustainability, AMNI SOUL ECO ®
for the textile industry. By offering sustainable solutions
doesn’t compromise on performance. The yarn’s bio-
that address pressing environmental issues, Fulgar paves
degradable component has no negative impact on wear,
the way for a more responsible and eco-conscious future
quality, or comfort. It retains the high performance of
for fashion.
polyamide 6.6, ensuring garment durability, breathability,

November 2023
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 21
Unlocking cotton transparency: Exploring
industry’s traceability dimensions
Homayra Anjumi Hoque

Growing consumer awareness of the profound social and

environmental impact of the fashion industry has sparked a
global movement for change. In 2022, A Bain & Company
study showed that approximately 15% of global fashion Sustainability
back to nature
consumers are already concerned about sustainability.

These consumers are actively making choices to minimize

their environmental impact, and this number is expected
to reach more than 50% in the near future. As consumers
3 Understand the "liber-to-retail"
transparency across the lexile
reassess their purchasing habits and environmental supply chain

regulations become more stringent, brands find themselves 2 Verify the garment

with an obligation to minimize their environmental and 1 Scan the QR or barcode

on the garment using
composition e.g. TENCELT
branded fibers from Lenzing
your cell phone
social impact.
a Protocol Consumption Unit (PCCU), is generated for
Why traceability is needed in cotton
each kilogram of Protocol cotton yarn.
industry and supply chain management.
Starting this year, Protocol Cotton can be verified
Traceability plays a central role in greening the fashion
immediately upon ginning. Because more than half of
supply chain, bringing transparency and accountability to
the U.S. crop is marketed within a crucial three-month
the production process, while ensuring compliance with
window beginning at the height of cotton ginning in
sustainability standards and best practices. In retail, this
November, this new timeline will allow Trust Protocol
allows consumers to make informed choices and support
growers’ cotton to be verified as Protocol Cotton on their
brands that align with their values. Ultimately, tracing the
initial Electronic Warehouse Receipt.
supply chain will build trust and create positive change
throughout the fashion industry. With this new timeline, Protocol member brands and
retailers can collaborate with marketers in advance to plan
Cotton Protocol: An innovative solution for the sourcing and use of more sustainably grown cotton.
One of the programs at the forefront of this
Assuring transparency- Protocol cotton
transformation journey is COTTON USA™, a Cotton
issue
Trust Protocol, which provides brands and retailers with
an innovative cotton traceability solution. This advanced For cotton tracked by PCMS, brands and retailers will
technology meticulously tracks Protocol Cotton through receive a transparency tag verifying the origin from the
the blockchain-based Protocol Consumption Management original fiber shipment to the textile mill. It also provides
Solution (PCMS). the names and locations of Trust Protocol factories
involved in every step of the manufacturing process until
The process begins at the ginning stage, where the
delivery of the finished product.
Permanent Bale Identification (PBI) number and milling
weight of each cotton bale are validated against the This creates enhanced communication opportunities,
USDA master list. Once verified, a digital token, called including the ability to incorporate relevant
environmental data into marketing claims and
Customers
product labels thereby promoting appropriate and
Retailers
sustainable sustainability practices. Protocol Cotton’s
Trading/Brands
traceability solution is revolutionizing the fashion
Finishing
industry, aligning it with the needs of consumers and
Intermediaries
global environmental standards. It empowers brands,
retailers and consumers to make particular choices
Fabric

Raw Material Processing

and drive positive change in the world of fashion.
As sustainability continues to take center stage, this
Raw Material Production
transformation is necessary for the fashion industry
Figure 1: Traceability in the cotton industry.

22 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy November 2023

 3. We store the
fingerprint in the
Oritain database

[Link] of the genuine

product are collected and
analysed to identify the
origin fingerprint

4. Samples from the

market can be
collected for testing

1. The product naturally

absorbs different levels of
How it works
chemical elements and We create unique profiles for our clients' products
isotopes. This gives the product and once this has been completed, we can audit
its unique origin fingerprint their product at any stage in the supply chain.

6. On-pack
certification
and marketing
opportunities can
be leveraged for
consumers

5. Products from the

market are tested to verify
the claimed origin of the
product

Figure 2: How cotton protocol works on traceability.

to become more responsible and environmentally effectively mitigate negative environmental impacts.
conscious as well.
In this regard, the necessity of programs like the Trust
Showcasing pathway to sustainability Protocol offering a promising avenue to address these
pressing concerns etc. are needed. By working together
The evolution of laws, standards, regulations and towards a common goal and prioritizing the scalability
consumer habits shows a clear trajectory that of sustainable practices, the fashion industry can
sustainability efforts by brands and retailers will continue confidently navigate the evolving landscape, paving the
to increase. As the industry grapples with these challenges, way for a sustainable and resilient future more ethically.
it is definitely clear that scalable solutions are required to

Cotton Traceability

Figure 4: Cotton protocol can be a sustainable initiative for the future world.

November 2023
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 23
ACT Pushes for Textile
Circularity in Biden’s plan to
boost sustainable procurement

Ahosanuzzaman Roni

The American Circular Textiles (ACT) coalition has urged Kibbe explained: “As the largest purchasing body in the
the Biden-Harris Administration to include textile circularity world, the U.S. government has the influence to catalyze
in its plan to increase sustainable procurement by the federal more sustainable options, and scale innovation for
government. Textile circularity is a practice that reduces environmentally preferred alternatives that create jobs
textile waste and environmental impact by using recycled and boosts our economy. I am optimistic that the Biden
materials, extending product lifespan, and recovering fibers. administration will reverse this trend of leaving textiles out
ACT believes that textile circularity can help the government of important funding opportunities and incorporate textile
achieve its goal of net-zero emissions by 2050, as well as circularity, including recycled content, reuse, rental, and
create economic opportunities and jobs in the US. repair, into their efforts to enhance sustainable product
and service procurement.”
ACT Executive Director Rachel Kibbe submitted the
letter to the Biden-Harris Administration on behalf of According to ACT, textile circularity can help address the
the coalition, outlining the need to incorporate textiles growing problem of textile waste in the US, which has
into the procurement strategy and extend collaborative increased by 80% since 2004. Textile waste is the fastest-
opportunities to textile industry stakeholders. growing waste category in the country, accounting for
over 30 billion pounds of landfill and incinerator disposal
every year. This waste not only costs billions of dollars for
taxpayers and private companies but also contributes to
greenhouse gas emissions and global warming. This waste
has a significant impact on the production of methane,
which is a potent greenhouse gas responsible for around
25% of global warming.

ACT is a coalition of leading fashion organizations and

brands that are committed to advancing circularity in the
US fashion industry. Some of its members include H&M,
Reformation, thredUP, PoliticallyInFashion, Rebecca
Ballard Advisory, Transparentem, and TS Designs. ACT’s
mission is to advocate for public policy that supports
fashion circularity, educate consumers and stakeholders
about the benefits of circular textiles, and facilitate
collaboration among industry players to scale innovation
Figure: ACT Executive Director Rachel Kibbe and best practices.

24 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy November 2023

Archroma completes 10 years
with innovative chemicals
Sayed Abdullah

Founded in 2013, Archroma is

a global, diversified leader in
specialty chemicals with operations
in 42 countries, including over 30
production sites, all certified to ISO
management system standards.
With the industry’s broadest
product portfolio, they serve many
of the world’s top companies in
textiles, packaging, and paper,
paints, and coatings. Our team
of 5,000 passionate professionals
offers industry-leading expertise in
manufacturing, technical support, and
innovation.

Archroma has continued to grow

through additional acquisitions since
then: Figure: Archroma team is diverse, global, and entirely united in its aim to lead the industry towards a more sustain-
able future for the customers and markets.

The global textile chemicals business

textile chemicals and dyes sector • FIBERCOLORS®, beautiful colors
of BASF was added to Archroma
through sustainability, service, and partially synthetized from upcycling
in 2015, with BASF's stilbene-based
innovation. textile waste, which recently won an
optical-brightening agents business
Innovation Dyes award at the 2023
for paper and powder detergent Our world-class research and
Just Style Excellence Awards
applications following in 2019. development capabilities and leading-
edge technologies and solutions help • EARTHCOLORS®, warm colors
• M. Dohmen, an international group
brands and manufacturers in their synthesized from partially plant-
specializing in the production of
innovation projects. Together with them, based waste, which won Gold in the
textile dyes and chemicals for the
we develop end-products that are safer, Sustainable Innovations category at
automotive, carpet, and apparel
made in a more efficient and sustainable the 2017 ISPO OutDoor Industry
sectors, was gradually acquired
way, and add value for the consumer Award
between 2014 and 2018.
through unique and innovative functions
• SMARTREPEL®, PFC-free*
• Huntsman Textile Effects was and features.
durable water repellents for textile
combined with Archroma in
Among Archroma’s recent ground- applications
February 2023, bringing together
breaking innovations are:
two global leaders to reshape the • DENISOL® PURE INDIGO, an
aniline-free* indigo solution for
denim

• CARTASEAL® NTR, a partially

“The Archroma team is diverse, global, and entirely united in our aim to lead our bio-based polymer barrier solution
industry towards a more sustainable future for our customers and markets. We for food
have pursued this singular goal for a decade through consolidation, innovation, and
• CARTASEAL®, PFC-free* and
collaboration.”
Mark Garrett ammonia-free* barrier solutions for
CEO of Archroma Group paper and packaging

November 2023
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 25
Coats & Lenzing unite for
sustainable innovation
Md. Emon

In a groundbreaking collaboration aimed at transforming TENCEL™ Lyocell Filament blended with wool using
the footwear industry, Coats Footwear, and the Lenzing ProWeave™ technology and other bio-based materials.
Group have come together to create synthetic-free
This novel approach enables the production of sustainable,
engineered uppers and fabrics. This innovative venture
exceptionally comfortable uppers and fabrics with an
brings together Coats Footwear’s ProWeave™ technology
adaptive fit, mimicking a second skin. Importantly, this
and Lenzing’s TENCEL™ Lyocell Filament, resulting in a
partnership is poised to benefit all footwear brands seeking to
remarkable fusion of sustainability and performance. The
enhance supply chain traceability, embrace bio-sustainability,
fruits of this partnership will be unveiled at the prestigious
and reduce the carbon footprint associated with producing
Lineapelle event.
high-quality uppers and fabrics for various applications.
A New Era of Sustainable Footwear
Leading the Way in Sustainable Materials
Coats Footwear, a renowned leader in thread
Lenzing’s TENCEL™ Lyocell Filament, derived from
manufacturing and structural components for apparel
renewable wood sources, boasts eco-friendly production
and footwear, has joined forces with the Lenzing Group,
processes that recycle process water and reuse solvents
a global specialist in cellulose-based specialty fibers for
at a rate exceeding 99%. Certified by The Vegan Society,
textiles. Their collaboration revolves around weaving
TENCEL™ Lyocell Filament is known for its silky
TENCEL™ Lyocell Filament using Coats Footwear’s
softness, color vibrancy, and strength.
patented jacquard weaving technology, ProWeave™,
which can accommodate various fibers and yarns. On the other hand, ProWeave™ is a unique jacquard
weaving technology that seamlessly integrates
The outcome of this collaboration is truly
functionality and design freedom, allowing for the creation
groundbreaking. It is set to be featured in the prototype of
of intricately designed fabrics with distinctive properties
Circle Sportswear’s “SuperNatural Runner,” marking the
such as gradient, rib, waffle, color, stretch, transparency,
first synthetic-free performance footwear to incorporate
and 3D effects.

26 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy November 2023

Heberlein success story continues: New
Swiss owners for long-established company
Sayed Abdullah

Figure: Management at Heberlein Technology AG: (left to right) Roland Messmer, COO; Roger Rueegg, CMO; Martin Zuercher, CEO; Patrick Buchmueller, CTO; Erich Peter, CFO.

Heberlein, founded in 1835, components for the man-made fiber convinced that the existence of the
successfully completed the sale of its industry. Around 80 employees and company and its traditions will now
business on the 31st of October 2023. an efficient infrastructure in Wattwil, be secured in the long term and that it
The new joint ownership comprises Switzerland, ensure that international will continue to develop successfully
the company’s management, alongside customers can continue to rely on – positive news also for the business
industry expert Daniel Lippuner quality and reliability. location of Toggenburg and the
and the Renaissance Investment canton of St. Gallen.
The Renaissance Investment
Foundation. From November 1, 2023,
Foundation was established by Martin Zuercher, CEO of Heberlein,
the company will operate under the
pension funds, for pension funds, and says of the transaction: “With
name “Heberlein Technology AG”
has been investing in unlisted Swiss this sale, we are opening a new,
The owners are committed to SMEs for over 20 years. positive chapter in the company’s
investing in the long-term success long history. With the Renaissance
Under the new ownership, the
of a business that already combines investment foundation, we found an
Heberlein business will continue
traditional values with innovative owner who is focused on long-term
unchanged at the current location in
power. The brand is known for its high success. Together with the energetic
Wattwil with the current management
level of expertise, as well as its tailor- management team, I look forward
and all current employees.
made solutions for the textile business. to continuing to make a significant
As the world’s leading supplier of The board of directors and contribution to Heberlein’s success in
jets for synthetic yarns, Heberlein management of Heberlein AG the future.”
develops, produces, and distributes key welcome this solution and are

November 2023
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 27
Beating Heat: rise of
cooling fabric technology
Faujia Mushtari

The relentless rise in global temperatures has given way

to an era of increasingly unbearable summers, a stark
consequence of the worsening climate crisis. In this
exploration, we delve into the intriguing realm of cooling
fabric technology, where a coalition of creative clothing
brands and pioneering researchers strives to alleviate
the discomfort brought about by record-breaking heat.
These advancements mark a significant step forward in
redefining our ability to withstand extreme temperatures.

Leading the Charge

Several prominent brands have taken the initiative

Figure 1: New 'Metafabric' passively cools the human body by 3~6 degrees Celsius.
to develop cooling fabrics that hold the promise of Courtesy: PR Newswire

transforming our battle against extreme heat. Among

LifeLab‘s CoolLife products center on the use of
them, Bearbottom Clothing, LifeLabs, and Mission have
polyethylene fabric, uniquely adept at facilitating the
emerged as pioneers, introducing innovative products
release of body heat. This attribute leads to a significant
designed to keep individuals cool and comfortable even in
reduction in the wearer’s temperature, offering relief from
the harshest heatwaves.
the relentless heat, with potential benefits across a wide
range of scenarios.
Bearbottom Clothing’s Graphene
Advancement
NanoStitch: A Breathable Comfort
Bearbottom Clothing’s approach revolves around utilizing Marvel
advanced technology to treat fabrics, including recycled
NanoStitch follows a similar path by engineering
polyester and nylon, with graphene—a remarkable
custom fabrics composed of Lycra® fiber and super-
heat conductor. This groundbreaking treatment allows
micro polyamide yarn. The outcome is an exceptionally
these fabrics to efficiently wick away body moisture and
lightweight and breathable material that effectively
heat, resulting in a cooling effect that can lower one’s
dissipates body heat, making it a favored choice for those
seeking relief from oppressive temperatures.

Mission’s HydroActive™ Technology: A

Game-Changer
Mission, on the other hand, offers a game-changing
cooling technology powered by HydroActive™. This
innovative approach has the potential to cool clothing
items by an astonishing 30 degrees Fahrenheit below the
average body temperature. Activating this remarkable
cooling mechanism is as simple as dampening the clothing
article and enjoying the ensuing rapid evaporation, which
temperature by up to 3 degrees Fahrenheit.
provides substantial relief from the heat.

LifeLab’s CoolLife: Embracing While current innovations are indeed impressive, the
future of cooling fabric holds even more promise. In
Polyethylene’s Power
a research laboratory in China, a team led by scientist

28 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy November 2023

Guangming Tao has developed an award-winning Stanford’s Innovations in Cooling Textiles
“metafabric” capable of reducing skin temperature by an
In parallel to these exciting developments, Stanford
astonishing 9 degrees Fahrenheit.
engineers have crafted a low-cost, plastic-based textile
with the potential to surpass traditional fabrics in terms of
Metafabric’s Extraordinary Cooling
cooling efficiency. This innovation holds the promise of a
Potential future where personal cooling could replace the need for
This metafabric can be likened to carrying both a mirror energy-intensive building cooling systems.
and an air conditioner simultaneously. It leverages a This pioneering textile is designed to allow the body to
mirror-like component to deflect solar radiation while disperse heat through two distinct mechanisms, resulting
allowing the exchange of body heat for cooler air, in a perceived temperature reduction of nearly 4 degrees
mirroring the functionality of an air conditioner. The Fahrenheit compared to conventional cotton clothing. It
result is unparalleled comfort, even when temperatures facilitates the evaporation of perspiration and the passage
soar to unprecedented heights. of body heat as infrared radiation, addressing a long-
What sets this metafabric apart is its practicality. In overlooked aspect of textile design.
contrast to earlier cooling fabrics, which were often thin To create this cooling textile, the Stanford researchers
and fragile, this metafabric boasts a thickness akin to ingeniously blended nanotechnology, photonics, and
conventional clothing. This quality makes it suitable for chemistry to modify polyethylene, a material commonly
everyday use while delivering exceptional cooling benefits, used in battery production. The outcome is a fabric that
promising a transformative impact. permits thermal radiation, air, and water vapor to pass
through while remaining opaque to visible light.

H&M & Rabanne announced

design collaboration
XYZ

H&M, the worldwide fashion store,

has once again created excitement
in the fashion industry with its latest
partnership with the famous French
fashion brand, Rabanne. The two
well-known brands celebrated their
upcoming collection with a glamorous
event at the famous Silencio nightclub
in Paris, which was attended by many
celebrities and featured amazing
fashion and entertainment.

Rabanne, a pioneering force in

French fashion since its inception in
the 1960s, has continued to captivate
audiences with its visionary designs,
under the creative direction of
Figure: Jared Leto, Damson Idris, Irina Shayk and Elle Fanning dressed in the collection, pictured with Julien Dossena
Julien Dossena. The Rabanne H&M & Ann-Sofie Johansson in a event of H&M and Rabanne Copyright: BFA

collection promises to seamlessly

mesmerizing performance by Swedish keeping the energy levels sky-high.
blend the brand’s iconic aesthetic
pop sensation Robyn, setting the The night they reached its crescendo
with H&M’s accessibility, offering
stage for an evening of glamour and with the appearance of none other
a range of womenswear, menswear,
artistic expression. The acclaimed than the legendary American singer
accessories, and even home décor.
South Korean DJ and producer, Peggy and actress, Cher, who graced the
The event kicked off with a Gou, followed with an electrifying set, event as a special guest.

November 2023
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 29
Proof data can boost spinners revenues
Amena Kamal Khan

Uster shares raw material management know-how

Raw material management has a high priority for Uster

Technologies. That’s clear from FiberQ – part of the new
Uster 360Q suite of pioneering solutions for excellence
in textile manufacturing. And it’s underlined by a second
webinar pointing the way from raw material data to
profits, scheduled for early November.

Fluctuations in raw material prices and quality are constant

headaches for spinners. And volatile market demand for
yarns adds to the pain. Market conditions are unpredictable, Figure: Data can boost spinners’ profits.

so the big challenge is to implement reliable planning for

to higher quality consistency with minimum waste
cotton sourcing and yarn production, to cover all scenarios.
and mixing costs. The fact is that 65% to 75% of
Raw material management challenge production cost is for raw materials. So, spinners will
readily understand the impact of the Uster raw material
Efficient raw material management can be the basis for
management solution.
profitable mill operations. The recipe involves minimized
raw cotton inventory to combat price fluctuations, Spinning mills need to adopt innovative techniques and
combined with state-of-the-art raw material management technologies to meet cotton-related challenges and ensure
to make maximum use of those valuable stocks. And the long-term sustainability and profits. Until today, raw
vital ingredient is reliable data. material management was largely based on the experience
of mill personnel, with available tools at the level of Excel
Of course, reliable data comes only from accurate
files. This resulted in low utilization of data, because of
measurements. It then requires proper analysis and
the complicated and time-consuming processes which
decision-making. Until now, this was a human task –
ultimately could not offer optimum results.
usually time-consuming, with a high risk of mistakes and
a low level of optimization. Increased sampling could Data-enabled software is the key to progress and success
enable better visualization of cotton quality, but that with raw material management. Uster FiberQ works with
likely requires even more data analysis and interpretation. powerful software, analyzing fiber data from available
This is no longer a problem since the Uster FiberQ inventories and creating consistent and reliable laydowns
solution allows cotton classification data from HVI to be for optimum yarn quality and performance, every day.
automatically uploaded to the Uster 360Q Platform. From
there it’s easy to create optimum laydowns. Comprehensive and convincing
The Uster ‘Think Quality’ approach makes FiberQ unique
The FiberQ solution
and it’s the central theme of the Uster raw material
One of the general issues is the lack of objective management webinar series. Uster’s second webinar is
measurement data to start making sound decisions on the titled ‘How raw material data can boost profit in spinning’.
purchasing or utilization of cotton. Despite the high impact It focuses on how spinners can apply Uster solutions to
of instrument data, not all mills invest in this valuable address today’s raw material management challenges and
equipment. In order to address the investment priority boost their profitability. The webinar will explain how data
challenge, Uster HVI is now more accessible in selected can be translated into insights for improvements in raw
countries through a subscription model, subject to conditions. material procurement and production.
With Uster HVI, higher sample testing and achieving
The Uster webinars are in English and free of charge. Like
objective, data-driven raw material sourcing and utilization
the FiberQ solution, the Uster webinars are developed
will now be possible for a wider segment of the market.
with the goal of supporting spinners and quality managers
Once the instrument is available and testing of incoming to improve the overall process – from fiber to yarn.
material is established, spinning mills face a delicate
Uster Technologies is the world’s leading provider of
balancing act to ensure optimal stock levels without
quality management solutions from fiber to fabric.
compromising quality or profitability. FiberQ can lead

30 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy November 2023

Swiss textile machinery companies innovating
with utmost importance to environment
Md. Emon

Figure: Swiss Textile Machinery Companies innovating and develop thier products , considering environment with utmost priority

In a world that is paying more and more attention to harshest conditions, fostering sustainable investment for
taking care of the environment, Swiss companies that their customers.
make machinery for textile production have become
leaders in adopting practices that are beneficial for the Innovation in Adapting to the Circular
planet. They are not only concerned with making textiles Economy
but also with using new technology and following the The circular economy concept is central to
principles of a circular economy. They are dedicated to sustainability, and Swiss textile machinery companies
conserving global resources and not only focusing on their are wholeheartedly embracing it. They are not just
products but also on improving their own way of working manufacturers but enablers of closed-loop manufacturing
and shaping the future of the textile industry. processes that minimize waste and resource consumption:

Sustainable Production: Changing the • Swinsol’s Fiber Recycling: Swinsol enables the spinning
Way Textiles Are Made of 100% recycled fibers, eliminating the need for new
virgin fibers.
Swiss textile machinery manufacturers have made
significant strides in redefining the landscape of textile • Jakob Müller’s Sustainable Weaving Technologies:
production. Their innovative technologies address critical Jakob Müller provides technologies for narrow weaving
issues such as water conservation, reduction in chemical that support the processing of sustainable yarns,
usage, minimizing raw material waste, and optimizing promoting closed-loop product manufacturing.
energy consumption. These advancements are driving a
• Retech’s Upgrades and Retrofits: Retech offers
sustainable transformation in the industry:
solutions to upgrade or rebuild existing production lines,
• Swinsol’s CO2-Neutral Compact System: Swinsol’s reducing the need for entirely new machinery.
mechanical compacting system for cotton spinners
operates without electricity, ensuring a CO2-neutral Internal Ecosystems: Setting a Good
production process. Example
• Loepfe’s Yarn Quality Optimization: Loepfe’s Sustainability begins at home, and Swiss textile machinery
technologies strike a balance between yarn quality and manufacturers recognize this. They are actively managing
productivity, significantly reducing waste of both yarn their internal ecosystems in sustainable ways, setting a
and energy. positive example for the industry:

• Retech’s Energy-Efficient Solutions: Retech’s state- • Jakob Müller’s Energy Efficiency: By optimizing
of-the-art heating godets and energy-optimized motor manufacturing space and reducing energy consumption
technologies lead to remarkable energy savings of up to for climate control, Jakob Müller demonstrates
35% in mills spinning man-made fibers. responsible resource management.

• Stäubli’s Long-Life Machinery: Stäubli’s machinery • Stäubli’s Photovoltaic Initiatives: Stäubli has installed
is designed for extended production life, even in the photovoltaic systems globally, generating local and
sustainable electricity while lowering its carbon footprint.

November 2023
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 31
New textile mechanism
can assist disabled person
Md. Emran

The textile and apparel industry has always been at the

forefront of innovation, continuously pushing boundaries
to create fabrics that serve both form and function. In
recent years, groundbreaking technology has emerged,
offering immense potential for improving the lives of
disabled individuals. Fluidically programmed wearable
haptic textiles, as detailed in the scientific article
“Fluidically Programmed Wearable Haptic Textiles,”
present a promising avenue for enhancing accessibility and
independence for those with disabilities.

A wearable device made of fabric, created by engineers

in Texas named Prof. Marcia O’Malley, Barclay Jumet,
Figure: Wearable haptic belt's informed touch can tell you where to go.
and Prof. Daniel Preston, could help simplify, improve,
and compensate for limited vision and hearing abilities by and human-computer interaction. These textiles are
using other senses. One of the main benefits of this fabric- designed to provide tactile cues and haptic feedback to
based device is that it is not easily noticed. Unlike larger the wearer through the controlled inflation and deflation
assistive devices like wheelchairs or exoskeletons, this of embedded cells within the fabric. The technology’s
technology can be discreetly added to a person’s regular core innovation lies in its ability to deliver programmable,
clothing. This not only helps the user feel respected and directional, and time-variant cues directly through
confident but also allows for a more natural and seamless clothing.
experience.
By employing pressurized air instead of electronics,
The textile-based mechanism is crafted from advanced this innovative method offloads a significant amount of
materials that can be seamlessly integrated into clothing control and sensor technology within the textile sheet
or worn as an accessory, such as a belt or vest. Comprised structure. This improves haptics and reliably provides
of a belt and textile sleeves, the wearables rely on fluidic directional feedback with only a small piece of clothing.
signals like pressures and flow rates to control the By providing a third sense in addition to touch, this
delivery of complex haptic cues, including sensations like technology can be of considerable assistance to those
vibration, tapping, and squeezing. A small, lightweight who are impaired. Haptic feedback may improve the
carbon dioxide tank affixed to the belt feeds airtight functionality of cochlear implants or facilitate patients’
circuits incorporated in the heat-sealable textiles, causing ability to interpret lips.
quarter-sized pouches – up to six on each sleeve – to
inflate with varying force and frequency. How It Helps Disabled Persons

Achieving complex cues is a great addition to the wearable • Enhanced Navigation: One of the most profound
technology in the world right now. This innovative design applications of this technology is in navigation assistance
actually indicates the shift towards a safer future for over for visually impaired individuals. By embedding these
1 Billion people with loss of hearing and an additional haptic textiles into garments such as shirts or jackets,
1 Billion people with loss of vision. People have been wearers can receive real-time directional cues. For
looking towards a better haptic and feedback embedded example, a blind person can be guided safely through
in the existing textile. Complex structure and sensing city streets or unfamiliar environments by feeling tactile
technology can easily improve hearing and sensing cues on their skin, eliminating the need for traditional
functions in the textile field. navigation aids.

• Improved Mobility: With fluidically programmed

Understanding the technology
textiles, motorized wheelchair users can experience a
Fluidically programmed wearable haptic textiles new level of control. The textiles can provide feedback
represent a fusion of materials science, fluid mechanics, on obstacles or terrain changes, allowing users to adapt

32 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy November 2023

Figure: Marcia O’Malley (from left), Barclay Jumet, and Daniel Preston developed a wearable textile device that can deliver complex haptic cues in real time to users on the go.
Image credit: Brandon Martin/Rice University.

their movements intuitively. into a wearable format for directing a user in navigation.
With these systematic upgrades and reduced reliance
• Communication Aid: This textile can be integrated into
on solenoid valves, our haptic textiles are capable of
gloves or vests, enabling users to communicate through
communicating to a user in real-world scenarios without
touch-based sign language or other tactile codes.
being constrained to a benchtop setting.
• Assistance in Daily Tasks: Everyday tasks like cooking,
The heat-sealable textiles are resilient to wear and tear,
dressing, or handling objects can be made more
making the device suitable for intensive daily use. Instead
accessible. It can provide sensory feedback, guiding users’
of a smartwatch with simple vibrational cues, we can
hands and movements, making these activities more
now envision a ‘smart shirt’ that gives the sensation of
manageable and safe.
a stroking hand or a soft tap on the arm. In addition to
Advancement in the entertainment serving as the basis for medically useful applications,
industry, bringing ‘haptic touch’ haptic textiles could “enable a more immersive and
seamlessly connected world.
These innovative textiles can be implemented into more
and more segments such as the entertainment industry
like movies, games, augmented reality virtual reality, etc.
by incorporating haptic touch. These senses are achievable
by the rapid speed and fabrication process. Advanced
replication and complex sensing enable rapid feedback to
the sensing system having an ample amount of response.

3D gaming and augmented reality can have a serious

impact through the addition of this sensory textile. The
rapid response can enhance the stimulation of force
and feedback of the actions in gaming and AR-related
stuff. Another application example is restoring the sense
of touch for an amputee by embedding sensors on a
prosthesis to gather data that the wearables could relay as
haptic feedback elsewhere on the body.

Because the fluidly programmed functionalities are well-

suited for tasks that require the delivery of repeated sets
of information, such as navigation, teleoperation, and
notifications, They opted to implement our haptic textiles Figure: Embedded fluidic programming enables complex haptic cues
from simplified inputs.

November 2023
Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy 33
Heberlein launches advanced DTY
jets, promising profits and efficiency
Md. Hasan

Heberlein AG, a global leader in air interlacing and air

texturing technology, has launched a groundbreaking
range of Advanced Performance DTY interlacing jets.
Designed to usher in a new era of efficiency and cost
savings, the APe series offers a remarkable 15% reduction
in compressed air consumption, while the APh series
guarantees unparalleled knot stability. Heberlein’s latest
innovations are poised to revolutionize the textile industry,
promising investors a profitable edge in an ever-evolving
market.

Navigating the Market

The textile industry experienced a significant cooling
trend in 2022, as reported by the International Textile
Figure: SwissJet housing
Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) through their
International Textile Machinery Shipment Statistics
The Strategic Jets
(ITMSS). Globally, shipments of draw texturing spindles
declined by 13%, with China accounting for a substantial Heberlein’s strategy combines immediate cost savings with
86% of the total. However, Heberlein’s historical preparation for an industry upturn. The APe series jets
experience suggests that the DTY segment typically offer superior performance across a range of multifilament
rebounds strongly after such slowdowns, such as those yarns. They enable higher processing speeds, improved
seen in 2007/2008 and 2020/2021. package build, and fewer filament and yarn breaks in
downstream processes, which can significantly enhance
Savings Every Hour operational efficiency.
Heberlein’s newest offering, the APe series, has garnered
Pole Position for Success
attention for its potential to reduce compressed air
consumption by 15% while maintaining the same knot As the textile industry hopes for a swift upswing, the APh
count. Texturizers in Italy have calculated substantial cost interlacing jets position manufacturers for maximum
savings, with one example citing a daily saving of USD production output. The APh series boasts unrivaled
120 for a 288-position machine operating at 3 bars of knot stability, ensuring exceptional performance without
working pressure. These calculations were based on local compromising yarn quality and process reliability. These
electricity costs, demonstrating savings of approximately jets excel in handling yarns in the 110 to 300 dtex range,
$5 per hour. making them ideal for processes involving elastane-
blended yarns subjected to substantial forces.
In China, where energy costs are comparatively lower,
texturizers are expected to save around $1 per hour, Easy Integration
equating to a daily saving of $24.3 for a machine equipped
For filament yarn producers looking to minimize power
with APe series jets. However, it’s worth noting that
consumption and enhance knot stability, the new APe and
energy prices in China can vary significantly by location
APh series jets can be effortlessly installed into widely-
and are partly subsidized by the state.
used SlideJet FT15-2 and SwissJet housings, following a
A Competitive Edge plug-and-play principle that requires minimal effort.

Considering the context of a Chinese manufacturing plant In a rapidly changing textile industry landscape,
where workers earn approximately $800 per month in the Heberlein’s Advanced Performance DTY interlacing jets
Shanghai area, these savings are substantial. For a machine stand as a beacon of innovation and profitability, offering
with 288 positions, adopting the new APe jets equates to
a path forward that combines savings and sustainability.
saving about three-quarters of a worker’s monthly salary.

34 Sustainability - Precision - Automation - Circularity - Energy November 2023