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Coastal Processes Study Notes

The document discusses coastal processes and landforms, emphasizing the dynamic nature of coastal environments influenced by waves, tides, and fetch, particularly in the Caribbean. It outlines wave formation, structure, and types, including the distinction between constructive and destructive waves. The economic significance of coastal areas for tourism, fishing, and transportation is also highlighted.

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12 views2 pages

Coastal Processes Study Notes

The document discusses coastal processes and landforms, emphasizing the dynamic nature of coastal environments influenced by waves, tides, and fetch, particularly in the Caribbean. It outlines wave formation, structure, and types, including the distinction between constructive and destructive waves. The economic significance of coastal areas for tourism, fishing, and transportation is also highlighted.

Uploaded by

poajennie
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

Coastal Processes and Landforms - Study Notes

Introduction

The coastal environment is a dynamic one. It responds to daily tidal changes, fluvial, weathering and wind

processes, as well as wave action. In the Caribbean, coastal activity dominates both the islands and

mainland countries along the Caribbean Sea and Atlantic Ocean. This environment is not only

geomorphically significant, but also economically vital due to its role in tourism, fishing, and transportation.

This module examines how waves shape the coastline and also considers coral reef coastal environments.

Wave Formation, Structure, and Type

Waves are the main agents of erosion in coastal environments, primarily generated by wind disturbing the

surface. Wave action is influenced by tides and wind patterns.

Tides

Tides are the rise and fall of sea levels due to the gravitational pull of the moon and sun. The tidal range

(difference between high and low tide) affects coastal processes. In the Caribbean, it's small but can amplify

storm effects. Spring tides (higher) occur during full and new moons, while neap tides (lower) occur during

quarter moons. Mean sea level varies over time due to geological and climatic changes.

Fetch

Fetch is the distance over which the wind blows without obstruction. Longer fetches generate higher-energy

waves. The Atlantic east coast of Caribbean islands has a fetch up to 3000 km, leading to rough seas, while

the west coast has shorter fetches and calmer waters.

Wave Structure

Waves are measured by height (crest to trough), length (distance between crests), period/frequency (time

between waves), and steepness (H/L). If steepness exceeds 1:7, the wave breaks.

Types of Waves

Waves of Oscillation: Circular motion, deep water.

Waves of Translation: Forward motion, near the shore.

Swells: Gentle waves from distant storms.


Types of Waves

Sea Waves: Steep waves from local winds.

Breakers: Spilling vs. Plunging

Spilling breakers occur on gentle slopes, while plunging breakers happen on steep slopes. Swash moves

water up the beach, and backwash returns it to the sea.

Constructive vs. Destructive Waves

Constructive Waves:

- Low energy, gentle slope

- Swash stronger than backwash

- Deposits material

Destructive Waves:

- High energy, steep slope

- Backwash stronger than swash

- Erodes material

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