“Guardian” Wall Dragon by SRO-Austin Crochet PART 1

Skill Level - Intermediate

SHELLEY RAE OLDENBURG *SRO-AUSTIN* IS THE COPYRIGHT,

PROPERTY OWNER AND DESIGNER OF THIS PATTERN AND ALL
PHOTOGRAPHS CONTAINED IN THIS DOCUMENT. THIS
PATTERN IS AVAILABLE FOR PERSONAL USE. NO
REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR IN PART OF ANY KIND, OR
DUSTRIBUTION OF THIS PATTERN IS ALLOWED. YOU MAY SELL
THE ITEMS YOU MADE USING THIS PATTERN, BUT PLEASE PUT
A LINK BACK TO MY SHOP - SRO-AUSTIN CROCHET. THANK YOU
FOR YOUR SUPPORT♡

Because I test each pattern with different colored yarn and make corrections as
needed, picture examples are in several colors. The color of example will vary in the same pattern, but
the technique is the same.

Materials - Caron Simply Soft Tweed - 4 ply - 2 skeins

Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Thread Size 10

Color #12 Black - small amount for eyes

Color #450 Aqua - small amount for eyes

Color #451 Parakeet - small amount for eyes

Crochet hooks Size G/4.00mm for yarn and Size 7/1.65mm for crochet thread

Plastic Canvas Size 7 - 1 sheet for inside reinforcement

Fabri-Tac Glue

Medium Size paint brush for Polyurethane

Nylon knee sock or thin sock to cover inside brace

Piece of Cardboard - at least 7” square for backing

Brown and Blue Craft Chalk or Powdered Eyeshadow

Sewing Pins and Yarn Needle - Clothes Pins or clips to hold work in place until glue dries

Plastic Drinking Straw - for inside of Dragon’s mouth

Fiberfill Stuffing

Scissors

Light-weight candle holder and battery tea light from Dollar Tree or a dollar store.

1
Polyurethane - Matte Finish 3M Picture Hangers

Stitches

Single crochet - sc

Half double crochet - hdc

Double crochet - dc

Treble crochet - tr

Double treble crochet - dtr

Slip stitch - sl st

Back Loop Only - BLO

Front Loop Only - FLO

Special Stitches and Abbreviations

Front Post Single Crochet - FPsc

Back Post Single Crochet - BPsc

Vertical Crocodile Stitch

Crocodile Stitch

Reverse Single Crochet - rsc

Single Crochet Chainless Foundation

Short Rows - SR

Partial rows worked back and forth to shape crochet piece. Short rows use fewer stitches than the previous
rows.

Ch-1 Picot - Ch 1, insert hook in top of stitch just completed and work a slip st (sl st).

Ch-2 Picot - Ch 2 , insert hook in top of stitch just completed and work a slip st (sl st).

Romanian Cord - RC

This is a cord that can be used for many projects. I use it all the time and love it! It is simple, but trying at first.
The internet has many videos and instructions if you need extra help. Sometimes a visual aid is very helpful. I
will try to explain with text and pictures. A Romanian Cord consists of working the basic sc in side stitches
instead of worked across.

2
Make a slip knot, ch 2

Insert hook in first chain made, yarn over and pull through chain only.

You will have 2 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops .

Turn the work SLIGHTLY AWAY from you.

Crochet in the loop on the side. (marked with
blue dot)

Insert the hook in the loop marked with blue dot, yarn over and pull through 1 loop, yarn over and pull
through 2 loops. This is the first completed stitch.

Turn the work SLIGHTLY AWAY from you. You will see 2 loops on the side (marked with 2 blue dots). From
now on, you will always be inserting the hook through the 2 side loops.

Insert the hook in the 2 side loops, yarn over and pull through the 2 side loops ONLY. You now have 2 loops on
the hook. Yarn over and pull through last 2 loops. (You have completed a sc in the 2 side loops).

*Turn work SLIGHTLY AWAY from you, insert hook into the 2 side loops. Yarn over, pull through 2 side loops
only. Yarn over pull through last 2 loops.” This completes 1 Romanian Cord stitch. Repeat from * to * for
desired cord length.

Each loop on the side for this pattern counts as 1 Romanian Cord stitch.

When I first tried the Romanian Cord stitch, I was challenged, but with practice it became very easy and it is so
decorative. Videos were not available at the time, but there are several now on the internet that may help.

3
Count the single loops on the side as 1 RC stitch for this pattern. The above cord has 9 stitches so far (marked
with blue dots).

Start with inside support brace.

Inside Support Brace

Cut the following pieces out of plastic canvas - size 7

Bottom # of Holes per Cut

2 Side Pieces # of Holes per Cut

Side Piece # of Holes per Cut

Top Piece # of Holes per Cut

The below 4 pieces make up the support for the snout of dragon.

Thread yarn needle with any color 4 ply yarn and pick up the 2 pieces shown
below - matching blue dots together.

4
Insert threaded needle through both holes marked and tie a double knot. You do not have to keep this part of
the project neat as it is in the inside and will not show. Continue matching hole for hole and whip stitch
together easing in curve. Pull stitches tight - being careful not to rip plastic canvas. Do not be alarmed if one
rips, it still will be ok.

Sew from tip to the end and weave in yarn tail and cut off excess
yarn.

Pick up other side piece. Match up blue dots (see below) and insert yarn needle into the stitches as before,
tying a double knot. Whip stitch this side as you did before to the end. Weave in yarn tail and cut off excess
yarn.

Top and sides of snout support are complete. We will now add the bottom to the sides, matching blue dots -
attaching and securing yarn as before. Whip st across to the end and weave in yarn and cut off excess yarn.

Matching up the two blue dots, repeat the process again to sew the last 2 edges of brace together.

Secure yarn, sew edge and finish off as before. Set aside for later.

Examples:

Cut one piece of plastic canvas as in picture below.

5
# of holes per cut

Stitch Placement of yarn (Continental Stitch) below.

Ea diagonal line equals - 1 Continental Stitch

With Caron Simply Soft Tweed - 4 ply yarn and yarn needle, begin next step. Leaving yarn tail on backside of
piece, sew stitches over it as you make first few sts.

From backside to front, insert threaded needle into hole #1, holding onto tail, pull yarn snug, insert needle,
front to back, into hole #2, pulling yarn through.

Set piece aside. Place stuffing inside support brace with fiberfill all the way to the tip of nose.

Sew end piece to large opening of reinforcement brace. Matching hole

To hole, whip stitch around - as below.

This part will be glued to

cardboard backing to give stability.

Lay brace aside.

Crochet Base of Dragon - Entire Dragon is worked using Caron Simply Soft Tweed - 4 ply yarn, except for eyes.

Always use a stitch marker to keep track of starting stitch of each round - moving st marker as you go.

Work in the Round.

Rnd 1. Make slip knot, ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch fr hook, do not turn or ch 1. Pull yarn tail to tighten stitches and
close opening.

Rnd 2. (2 sc in ea st around). (16 sts)

Rnd 3. Sc in ea st around. (16 sts)

Rnd 4. Sc in ea st around. (16 sts)

6
Rnd 5. In BLO, sc in next ea st around. (16 sts)

Rnd 6. In BLO, sc in next 2 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 13 sts. (17 sts)

Rnd 7. In BLO, sc in ea st around. (17 sts)

Rnd 8. In BLO, sc in ea st around. (17 sts)

Rnd 9. In BLO, sc in next 3 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 13 sts. (18 sts)

Rnd 10. In BLO, sc in ea st around. (18 sts)

Rnd 11. In BLO, sc in next 4 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 13 sts. (19 sts)

Rnd 12. In BLO, sc in ea st around. (19 sts)

Rnd 13. In BLO, sc in next 5 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 13 sts. (20 sts)

Rnd 14. In BLO, sc in next 7 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 12 sts. (21 sts)

Rnd 15. In BLO, sc in next 3 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 17 sts. (22 sts)

At this point, I place crochet piece on plastic canvas brace and continue
to crochet while on the form. You may choose to crochet this piece and
then put on the brace, but it will be a tight fit. Cover brace with a nylon before putting crochet piece on
brace.

Rnd 16. In BLO, sc in ea st around. (22 sts)

Rnd 17. In BLO, sc in ea st around. (22 sts)

Rnd 18. In BLO, sc in next 5 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 16 sts. (23 sts)

Rnd 19. In BLO, sc in ea st around. (23 sts)

Rnd 20. In BLO, sc in next 2 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 20 sts. (24 sts)

Rnd 21. In BLO, sc in next 7 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 16 sts. (25 sts)

Rnd 22. In BLO, sc in next 16 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 8 sts. (26 sts)

Rnd 23. In BLO, sc in next 5 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 20 sts. (27 sts)

Rnd 24. In BLO, sc in ea st around. (27 sts)

Rnd 25. In BLO, sc in next 6 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 20 sts. (28 sts)

Rnd 26. In BLO, sc in next 20 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 7 sts. (29 sts)

Rnd 27. In BLO, sc in next 8 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 20 sts. (30 sts)

Rnd 28. In BLO, sc in next 15 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 14 sts. (31 sts)

Rnd 29. In BLO, sc in next 5 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 25 sts. (32 sts)

Rnd 30. In BLO, sc in next 23 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 8 sts. (33 sts)

Rnd 31. In Both Loops, sc in next 22 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 10 sts. Skip next st and sl st in next st. Ch 1
- do not turn. (34 sts)

7
Rnd 32. Continue in the Round - FPSC in ea st around. Do not join or ch 1 (34 FPSC)

Rnd 33. In Both Loops, *(2 sc in next st), sc in next 6 sts*.

Repeat * to * 3 more times. Sc in next st, (2 sc in next st
- 2 times), sc in next 3 sts. (40 sts)

Rnd 34. Sc in ea st around. (40 sts)

Rnd 35. *Sc in next 7 sts, (2 sc in next st)*. Repeat * to * 4 more times. (45 sts)

Rnd 36. *[Sc in next 4 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 4 sts]*. Repeat * to * 4 more times. (50 sts)

Rnd 37. *Sc in next 9 sts, (2 sc in next st)*. Repeat * to * 4 more times (55 sts)

Rnd 38. *[Sc in next 5 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 5 sts]*. Repeat * to * 4 more times (60 sts)

Rnd 39. Sc in ea st around. (60 sts)

Rnd 40. Sc in ea st around. (60 sts)

Rnd 41. Sc in ea st around. (60 sts)

Rnd 42. Sc in ea st around. (60 sts)

Rnd 43. Sc in ea st around. (60 sts) Skip next st, sl st in next st.

Cut yarn and weave in end.

Cut off excess nylon. Fold nylon down to expose end of brace.

Cut a piece of cardboard with a diameter of 6”

With Fabri-tac glue, glue the end of support piece to cardboard as well as all edges of
crochet piece to edges of cardboard. Carefully work evenly.

Apply glue to the end of support piece as shown below.

Place and press to center of cardboard

circle.

Set aside for 5 minutes.

8
Begin by gluing a small portion of the bottom stitches to the bottom edge of cardboard circle. I did
approximately 8 sts. Press with fingers and add clips (Wait 5 minutes between each gluing section)

Next, glue the top 8 sts to cardboard,

repeating the steps used before.

Next, glue a small portion of stitches onto each side of cardboard. See red marks below.

There will be 4 openings where stitches are not attached to the cardboard. Add
fiberfill now by placing it through those 4 openings.

In the bottom, stuff slightly filling in space between cardboard and crochet piece. Do not over stuff - keeping
cardboard flat. Stuff remaining areas slightly to give shape. Glue rest of edge stitches to cardboard edge.

The Dragon head base is finished.

Doesn’t look like a dragon yet,

so let’s get started with fun part

of building the dragon

Bottom Jaw

Working in the Round.

Always use a stitch marker to keep track of starting st of each rnd - moving st marker as you go.

Rnd 1. Make a slip knot, ch 2, work 6 sc in 2nd ch fr hook. Do not turn or ch 1. Pull yarn tail to tighten stitches.

Rnd 2. (2 sc in ea st around). (12 sts)

Rnd 3. Sc in ea st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 4. Sc in ea st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 5. Sc in ea st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 6. Sc in next 2 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 9 sts. (13 sts)

Rnd 7. Sc in ea st around. (13 sts)

Stuff slightly with fiberfill and flatten with fingers. Do not overstuff.

Rnd 8. Sc in next 4 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 8 sts. (14 sts)

Rnd 9. Sc in next 6 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 7 sts. (15 sts)

9
Rnd 10. Sc in next 3 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 7 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 3 sts. (17 sts)

Stuff with fiberfill slightly, do not overstuff.

Rnd 11. Sc in ea st around. (17 sts)

Rnd 12. Sc in next 2 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 11 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 2 sts. (19 sts)

Rnd 13. Sc in ea st around. (19 sts)

Rnd 14. Sc in ea st around. (19 sts)

Rnd 15. Sc in next 5 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 7 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 5 sts. (21 sts)

Rnd 16. Sc in ea st around. (21 sts)

Rnd 17. Sc in next 5 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 9 sts, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 5 sts. (23 sts)

Rnd 18. Sc in ea st around. (23 sts)

Rnd 19. Sc in ea st around. (23 sts)

Rnd 20. Sc in ea st around. (23 sts)

Rnd 21. Sc in ea st around. (23 sts)

Rnd 22. Sc in ea st around. (23 sts)

Rnd 23. Sc in ea st around. (23 sts)

Rnd 24. Sc in ea st around. (23 sts)

Rnd 25. Sc in ea st around. (23 sts)

Rnd 26. Sc in ea st around. (23 sts)

Rnd 27. Sc in ea st around. (23 sts)

Rnd 28. Sc in ea st around. (23 sts)

Do not cut yarn. Stuff with fiberfill slightly. Flatten by pressing down on top of jaw while it is on a flat surface.
Flip over.

Sl st open end together, working through stitches from both sides at the same time, ch 1.

Surface Crochet - Work a sc in ea st around (side - tip - side) see below - cut yarn and weave in end.

10
Flat side is inside of mouth and rounded side is outside of lower mouth.

Attach bottom jaw (area marked in blue below)

To brace area marked in blue - either by sewing or gluing with Fabri-tac.

If using glue, pin in

place and set aside for

10 minutes.

Next - Apply Fabri-tac glue to tip of bottom jaw (inside of mouth) in area marked with blue. See below.

Gently pulling bottom jaw to right position,

press glued area to upper jaw. Hold in

place with pins or clips. Set aside for 10 minutes.

Using a drinking straw (any color),

Measure and cut straw to fit just behind glued tip of mouth. (This will be where the candle holder will be
thread through. Cut straw to fit just inside mouth opening. Mine is approximately 1 1/4” long. Apply Fabri-tac
glue on outside of straw.

Carefully insert into mouth opening and place all the way to the front of recently glued tip.

Glue rest of mouth closed by applying Fabri-tac glue to the inside edges
of bottom jaw up to straw. With hands, press upper and lower jaws
together. Hold in place with pins until dry.

Remove pins and set aside.

Nostrils

Work in the round using stitch marker.

Rnd 1. Make slip sknot, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch fr hook. Do not join or ch 1.

Rnd 2. Sc in ea st around. (6 sts)

Rnd 3. Sc in ea st around. (6 sts)

Rnd 4. *Sc in next st, (2 sc in next st)* 3 times. (9 sts)

11
 Rnd 5. *Sc in next st, (2 sc in next st), sc in next st* 3 times. (12 sts)

Rnd 6. Sc in ea st around (12 sts)

Row 7. Do not stuff - crochet nose piece shut with sc in ea st across (working through both
sides at once. Ch 1, turn. (6 sts)

Continue in the round.

Rnd 1. Sc in FLO of next 3 sts, turn counterclockwise,

sc in next 3 unworked loops (marked with red dots).

Do not join or ch 1.

Rnd 2. Working in the round (in both loops), sc in next st around. Do

not join or ch 1. (6 sts)

Rnd 3. Sc in ea st around. (6 sts)

Rnd 4. Sc in ea st around. (6 sts)

Rnd 5. Sc in ea st around. (6 sts)

Rnd 6. Sc in ea st around. (6 sts)

Rnd 7. Sc in ea st around. (6 sts)

Rnd 8. Sc in ea st around. (6 sts)

Rnd 9. Sc in ea st around. (6 sts) Sl st into next st. Cut yarn. Leave tail for sewing.

Attach yarn in st indicated with red

dot in FLO, ch 1.

Rnd 1. In FLO, sc in same st as join and next 2 sts. Turn work counterclockwise, sc in next 3 unworked loops
as before. Do not join or ch 1.

Rnd 2. In both loops, sc in next st around. (6 sts)

Rnd 3. In both loops, sc in next st around. (6 sts)

Rnd 4. In both loops, sc in next st around. (6 sts)

Rnd 5. In both loops, sc in next st around. (6 sts)

Rnd 6. In both loops, sc in next st around. (6 sts)

Rnd 7. In both loops, sc in next st around. (6 sts)

Rnd 8. In both loops, sc in next st around. (6 sts)

Rnd 9. In both loops, sc in next st around. (6 sts) Sl st into next st. Cut yarn. Leave tail for sewing.

Thread yarn needle with yarn tail, sew nostrils as shown below making stitches on backside (matching red
dots). Repeat for other side.

12
 Attach yarn in st marked with blue dot.

Following red line, sc around edge of inside of

nostril to tip of nose.

Work (sc, ch-1 picot, sc), work sc’s up other side of nose to inside of other nostril. Use
the same technique as was used on the edge of bottom jaw. See below. Cut yarn and
weave in end.

With Fabri-tac glue or needle and thread, attach nose to face. See different views below for placement.

With brown craft chalk or eyeshadow - add color to the nose (see pictures below)

Nose Scales

Vertical Crocodile Stitch - variation with ch-2 picot

Scale 1. Make a slip knot, ch 4, dc in 1st ch, ch 1, do not turn.

Work 5 dc around dc post,

Work ch-2 picot in top of last dc

Pivot work slightly towards you

to work 5 dc around ch 3 post.

Ch 3, sl st in space marked with red line,

ch 3, dc in same space, ch 3.

13
Scale 2. Work 5 dc around dc post, (ch-2 picot), pivot work clockwise,

work 5 dc around ch 3 post.

Ch 3, sl st in space as

before. Ch 3, dc in same

space as before.

Scale 3. Work 5 dc around dc post, (ch-2 picot), pivot work clockwise, work 5 dc around ch 3 post, ch 3, sl st in
space. Ch 3, dc in same space, ch 2.

Scale 4. Work 5 dc around dc post, (ch-2 picot), pivot work clockwise, work 5 dc around ch 3 post, ch 3, sl st in
space. Ch 3, dc in same space, ch 2.

Scale 5. Work 5 dc around dc post, (ch-2 picot), pivot work clockwise, work 5 dc around ch 3 post, ch 3, sl st in
space. Ch 3, dc in same space, ch 2.

Scale 6. Work 5 dc around dc post, (ch-2 picot), pivot work clockwise, work 5 dc around ch 3 post, ch 3, sl st in
space. Ch 3, dc in same space, ch 2.

Scale 7. Work 5 dc around dc post, (ch-2 picot), pivot work clockwise, work 5 dc around ch 3 post, ch 3, sl st in
space. Ch 3, dc in same space, ch 2.

Scale 8. Work 5 dc around dc post, (ch-2 picot), pivot work clockwise, work 5 dc around ch 3 post, ch 3, sl st in
space.Cut yarn and weave in end.

Placement and coloring - using brown craft chalk or brown eyeshadow - color scales as below.

Glue on top of nose with Fabri-tac glue, stretching scales slightly. (see pictures below)

Continue to PART 2

14
“Guardian” Wall Dragon by SRO-Austin Crochet PART 2

Skill Level - Intermediate

SHELLEY RAE OLDENBURG *SRO-AUSTIN* IS THE COPYRIGHT, PROPERTY OWNER AND DESIGNER OF THIS
PATTERN AND ALL PHOTOGRAPHS CONTAINED IN THIS DOCUMENT. THIS PATTERN IS AVAILABLE FOR
PERSONAL USE. NO REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR IN PART OF ANY KIND, OR DUSTRIBUTION OF
THIS PATTERNIS ALLOWED. YOU MAY SELL THE ITEMS YOU MADE USING THIS PATTERN, BUT
PLEASE PUT A LINK BACK TO MY SHOP - SRO-AUSTIN CROCHET. THANK YOU FOR YOUR
SUPPORT♡

Because I test each pattern with different colored yarn and make corrections as needed, picture
examples are in several colors. The color of example will vary in the same pattern, but the technique is
the same.

Head Spike

Crochet a 52-st Romanian Cord. Ch 1, sc in ea of the side loops (blue dots) across side.

Work one sc in end, sc across other side.

After working sc across to end of second side, you will be crocheting the spikes in the cross bars marked with
red dots. (see picture below). I placed the hook under the crossbars only to help locate them.

Swivel work as shown to work spikes.

Spike 1. Ch 1, insert hook in first crossbar (CB) and work sc, 2 hdc in next CB, (dc, ch-1 picot, dc in next CB), 2
hdc in next CB, sc in next CB - first spike completed. Sl st in next 2 CB’s.

Spike 2 - Sc in next CB, 2 hdc in next CB, (dc, ch-1 picot, dc) in next CB, 2 hdc in next CB, sc in next CB, sl st in
next 2 CB’s.

Spike 3 - Sc in next CB, 2 hdc in next CB, (dc, ch-1 picot, dc) in next CB, 2 hdc
in next CB, sc in next CB, sl st in next 2 CB’s.

Spike 4 - Sc in next CB, 2 hdc in next CB, (dc, ch-1 picot, dc) in next CB, 2 hdc
in next CB, sc in next CB, cut thread. Weave in end.

15
 With Fabri-tac, first glue spike 4 to back - top of head - see below. Hold in
place with clip or pins.

Glue remaining spikes to head and snout.

Add color to spikes as you did for scales and nostril.

Upper Mouth Romanian Cord

Crochet a 128-st Romanian Cord. Weave in ends.

Apply to upper snout with Fabri-tac glue, starting at yellow dot. Follow orange dots, gluing RC to mouth line,
around tip of mouth, and along the other side. End on same spot opposite starting point. Do not glue area
over straw shut. After gluing, place a toothpick through straw to keep that area open.

Also mark the center of cord as below to help with placement. The center will be placed
at the tip of the mouth.

Neck Collar with Scales - Vertical Crocodile Stitch - Variation with ch-2 picot (as before)

Scale 1. Make a slip knot, ch 4, dc in 1st ch, ch 3. Work 5 dc around dc post, ch 2-picot, 5 dc around ch 3 post,
ch 3, sl st in space. Ch 3, dc in same space, ch 3.

Scale 2. Work 5 dc around dc post, ch 2-picot, 5 dc around ch 3 post, ch 3, sl st in space. Ch 3, dc in same

space, ch 3.

Scale 3. Work 5 dc around dc post, ch 2-picot, 5 dc around ch 3 post, ch 3, sl st in space. Ch 3, dc in same

space, ch 3.

Scale 4. Work 5 dc around dc post, ch 2-picot, 5 dc around ch 3 post, ch 3, sl st in space. Ch 3, dc in same

space, ch 3.

Scale 5. Work 5 dc around dc post, ch 2-picot, 5 dc around ch 3 post, ch 3, sl st in space. Ch 3, dc in same

space, ch 3.

Scale 6. Work 5 dc around dc post, ch 2-picot, 5 dc around ch 3 post, ch 3, sl st in space. Ch 3, dc in same

space, ch 3.

Scale 7. Work 5 dc around dc post, ch 2-picot, 5 dc around ch 3 post, ch 3, sl st in space. Cut yarn and weave
in end.

16
Attach yarn with sl st in space indicated with red dot below. You will be working on the left side of other scales.

Scale 1. Ch 4, dc in 1st ch, ch 1. Work 5 dc around dc post, ch 2-picot, 5 dc around ch 3 post,

ch 3, sl st in space. Ch 3, dc in same space, ch 3.

Scale 2. Work 5 dc around dc post, ch 2-picot, 5 dc around ch 3 post, ch 3, sl st in space. Ch

3, dc in same space, ch 3.

Scale 3. Work 5 dc around dc post, ch 2-picot, 5 dc around ch 3 post, ch 3, sl st in space. Ch

3, dc in same space, ch 3.

Scale 4. Work 5 dc around dc post, ch 2-picot, 5 dc around ch 3 post, ch 3, sl st in space. Ch 3, dc in same

space, ch 3.

Scale 5. Work 5 dc around dc post, ch 2-picot, 5 dc around ch 3 post, ch 3, sl st in space. Ch 3, dc in same

space, ch 3.

Scale 6. Work 5 dc around dc post, ch 2-picot, 5 dc around ch 3 post, ch 3, sl st in space. Ch 3, dc in same

space, ch 3.

Sl st in next 3 sts Continue to crochet around outside of scales.

(red dots)

Row 1. a. Hdc in first dc, yarn over, insert hook into next dc and first dc of next crocodile st at the same time,
finish hdc.

b. *Hdc in next st, yarn over, insert hook into next dc and first dc of next crocodile st at the same time,
finish hdc* - Repeat * to * 4 more times.

c. (Work hdc dec over next 2 sts), hdc in next 2 sts, (3 hdc in ch-2 picot),(work hdc dec over next 2
sts), yarn over and insert hook in 3rd dc of next crocodile st AND last dc of previous crocodile st at the same
time, finish hdc. This is a little tricky, you are repeating process of crocheting crocodile sts together, but
backwards from what was done on the other side.

d. *Hdc in next st, yarn over and insert hook in 3rd dc of next crocodile st AND last dc of previous
crocodile st at the same time, finish hdc* - Repeat * to * 3 more times. Hdc in next 2 sts, hdc in top of ch 3.
Ch 2, turn (35 sts).

Note - Ch 2 on this piece does not count as a stitch.

17
Row 2. Dc in same st as ch 2, *(2 dc in next st), dc in next st*. Repeat from * to * around. Ch 2, turn. (52 sts)

Row 3. Dc in next 25 sts, (2 dc in next st - 2 times), dc in next 25 sts, ch 2, turn. (54 sts)

Short Row 1. Dc in first st and in next 11 sts, hdc in next 2 sts,

sc in next st, ch 1, TURN.

Short Row 2. Sc in first st, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 12 sts, ch 2,

TURN.

Short Row 3. Dc in first st and in next 10 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next

2 sts, (work SR dec - see instructions below)

Work SR dec using lower sts from row before marked with black dots in example. *The first
st of the decrease has been used from a previous row, but we will use it again as part of the
decrease*. By completing this decrease, you are closing a gap.

Pull up a loop in ea

of the 2 sts

marked with black dots.

Pull up a loop and pull through all 3 loops on hook - completed SR dec.

Sc in next 2 sts, ch 1, TURN.

Short Row 4. Sc in first st and in next 4 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 11 sts, ch 2, TURN.

Row 8 - Short Row 5. Dc in first st and in next 9 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts,
(work SR dec as before), sc in next 3 sts, sl st in next st, cut yarn. Weave in end.

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 On other side, with right side facing you. Attach yarn in last dc (yellow dot), ch 2.

Short Row 1. Dc in same st as ch 2, dc in next 11 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next st, ch
1, TURN.

Short Row 2. Sc in first st, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 12 sts, ch 2, TURN.

Short Row 3. Dc in first st, dc in next 10 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, (work SR
dec), sc in next 2 sts, ch 1, TURN.

Short Row 4. Sc in first st and in next 4 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 11 sts, ch 2, TURN.

Short Row 5. Dc in first st, dc in next 9 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts, (work SR dec), sc in next 3 sts, sl st
in next st, cut yarn. Weave in end.

Matching yellow lines from each

piece, with Fabri-tac, glue in place
(from top of spike base to end of
spike piece). Butting up against
the base of spike, not on top. Pin
in place until dry.

Wrap collar around neck. Repeat gluing process FOR OTHER

SIDE as before (matching yellow lines). Being careful not to
twist collar.

Next - Glue throat area only (see blue line below) Apply Fabri-tac to base on throat
area. Making sure center of
throat lines up with center of
snout. Press glued area with
fingers.

View of backside.

Set aside for 10 minutes.

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 Starting at neck scales, (center - bottom) marked with yellow circle, glue each scale of collar
to support base, 1 scale at a time. Repeat gluing each scale. Continue to glue scales all the
way to the top of dragon’s snout/spike.

Shaping of Dragon’s Head

There will be 2 openings at the top on each side of the dragons head.

Stuff these areas with fiberfill. After stuffing, glue or sew edges
closed.

With paint brush, apply polyurethane to entire collar, spikes and snout scales - making sure fibers are covered.
Smooth fibers with brush as you apply polyurethane. (A coat of polyurethane will be put on the rest of snout,
nostrils, jaw and eye area later). Set aside to air dry until it is not sticky to the touch. While it is drying, we will
work on crocheting other pieces. This step turns your crochet into a piece that should last a long time and
easier to keep clean. It also changes the look of your piece from yarn to WOW!

Nose Horn - worked in the round

Rnd 1. Make slip knot, ch 2, work 6 sc in 2nd ch fr hook. Do not join or ch 1.

Rnd 2. Sc in ea st around. (6 sts)

Rnd 3. Sc in ea st around. (6 sts)

Rnd 4. *Sc in next st, (2 sc in next st)* Repeat * to * 2 more times. (9 sts)

Rnd 5. Sc in ea st around. (9 sts) Skip next st, sl st in next st. Cut yarn, weave in ends.

Stuff with fiberfill. Apply Fabri-tac to bottom of horn and place on top of snout - directly
behind nostrils. See below.

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Eye Lids - make 2

NOTE - When doing the reverse sc in front loops and the next step in the back
loops, the beginning and end back loops are hidden. You will have to make sure
you locate them and don’t skip them. They can easily be overlooked and skipped.
Row 1. Ch 2, work 4 sc in 2nd ch fr hook, ch 1, turn.

Row 2. (2 sc in next st) 4 times, ch 1 - do not turn. (8 sts)

Row 3. Work Reverse Single Crochet (rsc) in FLO of ea st across, ch 1 - do not turn. (8 sts)

Row 4. In BLO, (2 sc in first loop), sc in next loop, *(2 sc in next loop), sc in next loop*
Repeat * to * 2 more times, ch 1 - do not turn (12 sts)

Row 5. Work rsc in FLO of ea st across, ch 1 - do not turn. (12 sts)

Row 6. In BLO, (2 sc in first loop), sc in next 2 loops, *(2 sc in next loop), sc in next 2 loops* Repeat * to * 2
more times, ch 1, TURN (16 sts)

Row 7. Skip first st, work FPsc around ea st across, ch 1, turn. (15 sts)

Row 8. Skip first st, work BPsc around ea st across, ch 1, turn. (14 sts)

Row 9. (Dec over 2 sts) across - 7 times, Ch 1, turn (7 sts)

Row 10. Sc in next 7 sts, work 4 sc across side,

work 5 sc across bottom, work 4 sc across side, do not turn. Work sl st in next 7 sts
across the top. Cut yarn.
Weave in ends.

Repeat above steps for other eyelid.

Eye - make 2

Working in the round, with black crochet thread size 10 and hook size 7/1.65mm, make a slip knot

Rnd 1. Ch 2, work 6 sc in 2nd ch fr hook, do not join or ch 1.

Rnd 2. (2 sc in next st) - 6 times. Skip next st, sl st in next st. Cut thread and bring thread to back of work (12
sts) Tie a double knot. Cut thread leaving short tails.

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Rnd 3. Attach Color #450 Aqua crochet thread in back loop of any sc with sl st. Sl st in BLO of next 11 sts. Do
not join. (12 sts)

Rnd 4. In BLO, *sc in next st, (2 sc in next st), sc in next st* - 4 times. Do not join. (16 sts)

Rnd 5. Sl st in back loop of next 16 sts. Do not join.

Rnd 6. In BLO, *sc in next 3 sts, (2 sc in next st)* - 4 times. Join with sl st in first sc. (20 sts) Cut thread and
pull through to the back of eye. Tie a double knot with light green tails. Cut thread leaving short tails.

Rnd 7. Attach #451 Parakeet crochet thread in any Front loop of sc in last row. Sl st around.
(20 sts) Do not join or ch 1.

Rnd 8. Sl st in BACK loop of next st and in ea st around. Tie a double knot in front and bring threads to the
back. The corner of the eye is where the green thread is knotted (shown with red dot). Cut tails to 1/4” in
length. With a dab of Fabri-tac glue, tack all thread ends to back of eye.

After glue is dry on back side of eye, place eye on ironing board - face down. Cover with paper towel and
steam press flat. After flipping the eye over and you like the shape, with right side up, place paper towel on
top and steam press once more.

Repeat process for other eye.

Glue eye to eyelids with Fabri-tac glue as shown below.

Optional - Add color to eyelids with blue and brown craft chalk or eyeshadow.

Eye Placement

Place pins as shown below.

Glue eye to Dragon’s

Head With Fabri-tac
Between pins

Making sure dragon eyes line up when looking at the dragon from the front, pin in place until glue holds.

Snout and Eye Romanian Cord - make 2

Work a 50-st Romanian Cord.

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Glue cord along side of snout and under eye as shown. Below picture with yellow marking is a rough
placement.

Pin in place. Repeat for other side.

Neck/Chest Bib - Crocodile Stitch

Scale Row 1. Make a slip knot, ch 4, dc in 1st ch, ch 3.

Work 5 dc
around dc post Work Ch-2
(marked with picot, .
purple line)

Pivot work slightly Foundation row for

clockwise to work 5 dc scales - Ch 3, work dc in
around ch 3 post base of ch 3 just made as
(marked with purple line. shown with yellow dot.

Ch 1, dc in scale Ch 1, work 2 dc in
space as shown next st marked
(yellow dot) with yellow dot
(top ch of ch 3)

Scale Row 2.
Ch 3, work 5 Work ch-2 picot, Work 5 dc
dc around last with hook still in around dc post
dc post made
work - flip work shown with
marked with
yellow line over as shown. yellow line.

Sc in next dc, work 5 Ch-2 picot, work

dc around next dc 5 dc around last
post marked with ch 3 post, ch 3
yellow line.

Foundation row (on backside of scales) Dc in same place as

ch 3 (as before), ch 1, work dc in space of scale, ch 1, work 2
dc in top of sc, ch 1, work dc in next scale space, ch 1, work
2 dc in top of ch 3, ch 3.

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Scale Row 3. Work 5 dc around last dc post, (ch-2 picot), flip and pivot work, work 5 dc around next dc post,
sc in next dc, *work 5 dc around next dc post, (ch-2 picot), pivot work, work 5 dc around next dc post*, sc in
next dc. Repeat * to * for last scale. Ch 3, turn.

Foundation Row - Dc in same st as ch 3, *ch 1, dc in scale space, ch 1, (2 dc in next sc)*. Repeat * to * 2 more
times. Ch 3.

Scale Row 4. Work 5 dc around last dc post, (ch-2 picot), flip and pivot work, work 5 dc around next dc post,
sc in next dc, *work 5 dc around next dc post, (ch-2 picot), pivot work, work 5 dc around next dc post*, sc in
next dc. Repeat * to * 2 more times. Ch 3, turn.

Foundation Row - Dc in same st as ch 3, *ch 1, dc in scale space, ch 1, (2 dc in next sc)*. Repeat * to * 3 more
times. Ch 3.

Scale Row 5. Work 5 dc around last dc post, (ch-2 picot), flip and pivot work, work 5 dc around next dc post,
sc in next dc, *work 5 dc around next dc post, (ch-2 picot), pivot work, work 5 dc around next dc post*, sc in
next dc. Repeat * to * 3 more times. Cut yarn and weave in end.

Attach bib to dragon

neck collar with Fabri-
tac glue as shown. Glue
edge of ends (marked
Press
with yellow) also

Press together with hands. Apply polyurethane with paint brush to entire bib. You may add color to scales
before coat of polyurethane. Set aside to air dry.

Upper Eye and Neck Romanian Cord

Work a 130-st Romanian Cord. Glue to dragon with Fabri-tac -See Rough placement - yellow line.

Glue - starting at forehead, around eye, down and under jaw, around other eye and back
to forehead.
Pin in
Actual placement picture - place
start at red dot and end at
yellow dot.

Apply polyurethane to the

rest of dragon (snout, jaw,
eyelids and eyes) - Entire
dragon should have 1 coat of
polyurethane.
Dragon’s Right Ear Plate

Row 1. Make a slip knot, ch 11, sc in 2nd ch fr hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, (2 dc in next ch), tr in next ch,
(2 tr in next ch), tr in next ch, (2 dtr in next ch), dtr in next 2 chs, ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 2. In BLO, sc in each loop across, ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

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 Row 3. In BLO, sc in next 2 loops, hdc in next loop, (2 dc in next loop), tr in next loop,
(2 tr in next loop), tr in next loop, (2 dtr in next loop), tr in next 2 loops, leave last 3 sts
unworked. Ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 4. In BLO, sc in ea loop across, ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 5. In BLO, sc in next 2 loops, hdc in next loop, (2 dc in next loop), tr in next loop, (2 tr in next loop), tr in
next loop, (2 dtr in next loop), tr in next 2 loops, leave last 3 sts unworked. Ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 6. In BLO, sc in each loop across, ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 7. In BLO, sc in next 2 loops, hdc in next loop, (2 dc in next loop), tr in next loop, (2 tr in next loop), tr in
next loop, (2 dtr in next loop), tr in next 2 loops, leave last 3 sts unworked. Ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 8. In BLO, sc in each loop across, ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 9. In BLO, sc in next 2 loops, hdc in next loop, (2 dc in next loop), tr in next loop, (2 tr in next loop), tr in
next loop, (2 dtr in next loop), tr in next 2 loops, leave last 3 sts unworked. Ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 10. In BLO, sc in each loop across. Cut thread and weave in end. (13 sts)

Using same color as ear plate for light colored Dragon, attach yarn with sl st in stitch marked with blue dot. I
used a contrasting color for the Brown Dragon.

Ch 1, sc in (Sc, ch 1-
next 12 sts, picot, sc)
in next st.

 Work sc in ea Sl st in back
loop marked loop of stitch
with black marked with
dots black dot

Sl st in next 9 loops, Ch 1, turn, for this row -

work another sl st in insert hook into sts shown
edge loop shown in below - (encasing sl sts fr
picture (11 sts) previous row) sc over first
sl st and over next 10 sl sts.

Repeat steps
Work sc in st
between
marked with yellow 
Red
dot, (sc, ch-1 picot),
Triangles 
sc) in st marked
with blue dot. 3 more
times

25
 Sc in sts marked In foundation chain,
with black dots work (2 sc in first st),
sc in next 8
foundation sts, (2 sc in
next st)

Crocheting across edge, Step 2 -

Step 1 - Fold ridge Sc in st

down with thumb and marked with
crochet through both sts blue dot.
at once as shown.

Repeat Step 1 and Step 2 across edge. Sc in last corner, join with sl st to first sc. Cut yarn. Weave in ends and
cut excess yarn off.

Continue to Part 3

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“Guardian” Wall Dragon by SRO-Austin Crochet PART 3

Skill Level - Intermediate

SHELLEY RAE OLDENBURG *SRO-AUSTIN* IS THE COPYRIGHT, PROPERTY OWNER AND DESIGNER OF THIS
PATTERN AND ALL PHOTOGRAPHS CONTAINED IN THIS DOCUMENT. THIS PATTERN IS AVAILABLE FOR
PERSONAL USE. NO REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR IN PART OF ANY KIND, OR DUSTRIBUTION OF
THIS PATTERNIS ALLOWED. YOU MAY SELL THE ITEMS YOU MADE USING THIS PATTERN, BUT
PLEASE PUT A LINK BACK TO MY SHOP - SRO-AUSTIN CROCHET. THANK YOU FOR YOUR
SUPPORT♡

Because I test each pattern with different colored yarn and make corrections as needed, picture
examples are in several colors. The color of example will vary in the same pattern, but the technique is
the same.

Dragon’s Left Ear Plate

(Because this ear plate faces the opposite way of the other ear plate, it is made a little differently and also has one more row)

Row 1. Make slip knot, ch 11, sc in 2nd ch fr hook and in ea ch across, ch 1, turn. (10 sts)

Row 2. In FLO, sc in next 2 loops, hdc in next loop, (2 dc in next loop), tr in next loop, (2 tr in next loop), tr in
next loop, (2 dtr in next loop), dtr in next 2 loops, ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 3. In Both Loops, sc in first st and in ea st across, ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 4. In FLO, sc in next 2 loops, hdc in next loop, (2 dc in next loop), tr in next loop, (2 tr in next loop), tr in
next loop, (2 dtr in next loop), dtr in next 2 loops, (leave last 3 sts unworked), ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 5. In Both Loops, sc in first st and in ea st across, ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 6. In FLO, sc in next 2 loops, hdc in next loop, (2 dc in next loop), tr in next loop, (2 tr in next loop), tr in
next loop, (2 dtr in next loop), dtr in next 2 loops, (leave last 3 sts unworked), ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 7. In Both Loops, sc in first st and in ea st across, ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 8. In FLO, sc in next 2 loops, hdc in next loop, (2 dc in next loop), tr in next loop, (2 tr in next loop), tr in
next loop, (2 dtr in next loop), dtr in next 2 loops, (leave last 3 sts unworked), ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 9. In Both Loops, sc in first st and in ea st across, ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 10. In FLO, sc in next 2 loops, hdc in next loop, (2 dc in next loop), tr in next loop, (2 tr in next loop), tr in
next loop, (2 dtr in next loop), dtr in next 2 loops, (leave last 3 sts unworked), ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 11. In Both Loops, sc in first st and in ea st across. Cut yarn and weave in tail. (13 sts)

Using same color as ear plate for light colored Dragon, attach yarn with sl st in stitch marked with blue dot. I
used a contrasting color for the Brown Dragon.

27
 Work (2 sc in same st as
join), sc in next 8 sts, (2 sc
in next st),


Work 4 sc across Sl st in next
edge as before, (sc, 10 loops, sl
ch-1 picot, sc) in st in edge st
corner, sc in next 2 as done
sts before, ch 1,
turn.

Sc over next 11 sl Repeat  to 

sts as before.  3 more times

Work 4 sc across edge as before, (2 sc, ch-1 picot, sc) in corner, sc in next 12 sts, (2 sc in next st). Sc across
inside edge as before (on Right Ear Plate), working 1 sc before each spine and working through double
thickness through the spine - with one exception. Hold the spines facing the other way. Sc in last corner, join
with sl st to first sc. Cut yarn and weave in tail end. Cut off excess yarn.

Apply polyurethane with small paint brush to each ear plate. One side at a time. Periodically shape while
piece dries. When not tacky to the touch, apply polyurethane to the other side of each ear plate. Apply with
Fabri-tac glue to head while ear plates are still pliable, directly behind already placed RC. Place top inside
corners on top of spots marked with yellow dots on picture below. Optional - apply craft chalk or eye shadow
to ear plates.

28
Head Horns - make 2

NOTE - the horns do not use difficult stitches, but are challenging because of the way the horn bends.
Sometimes the next stitch is hidden. Make sure not to accidentally skip over any stitches. Use a stitch marker
to help keep tract of beginning of ea row and count the stitches.

Work a 20-st sc chainless foundation chain.

Working in the round,

Rnd 1. DO NOT JOIN WITH SLIP STITCH. Being careful not to twist chainless foundation chain, sc in first sc and
in ea st around. (20 sts)

Rnd 2. (2 sc in next st), sc in next 7 sts, (work dec over next 2 sts - 2 times), sc in next 7 sts, (2 sc in next st).
(20 sts)

Rnd 3. IN BLO, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 7 sts, (dec over next 2 sts - 2 times), sc in next 7 sts, (2 sc in next st).
(20 sts)

Rnd 4. IN BOTH LOOPS, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 7 sts, (work dec over next 2 sts - 2 times), sc in next 8 sts.
(19 sts)

Rnd 5. IN BOTH LOOPS, (2 sc in next st - 2 times), sc in next 5 sts, (dec over next 2 sts), (dec over next 3 sts), sc
in next 6 sts, (2 sc in next st). (19 sts)

Rnd 6. IN BOTH LOOPS, (2 sc in next st - 2 times), sc in next 6 sts, (dec over next 3 sts), (dec over next 2 sts), sc
in next 5 sts, (2 sc in next st). (19 sts) Sc in next st to bring yarn to right position.

Rnd 7. IN BLO, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 5 sts, (dec over next 2 sts), (dec over next 3 sts), sc in next 7 sts, (2 sc
in next st). (18 sts)

Rnd 8. IN BOTH LOOPS, (2 sc in next st - 2 times), sc in next 5 sts, (dec over next 3 sts), (dec over next 2 sts), sc
in next 5 sts, (2 sc in next st). (18 sts)

Rnd 9. IN BOTH LOOPS, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 6 sts, (dec over next 2 sts), (dec over next 3 sts), sc in next 5
sts, (2 sc in next st). (17 sts)

Rnd 10. IN BOTH LOOPS, (2 sc in next st - 2 times), sc in next 4 sts, (dec over next 3 sts), (dec over next 2 sts),
sc in next 5 sts, (2 sc in next st). (17 sts) Sc in next st to bring yarn to right position.

Rnd 11. IN BLO, (2 sc in next st), sc in next 5 sts, (dec over next 3 sts), (dec over next 2 sts), sc in next 5 sts, (2
sc in next st). (16 sts)

Rnd 12. IN BOTH LOOPS, (2 sc in next st - 2 times), sc in next 3 sts, (dec over next 3 sts - 2 times), sc in next 3
sts, (2 sc in next st - 2 times). (16 sts)

Rnd 13. IN BOTH LOOPS, sc in next 7 sts, (dec over next 2 sts), sc in next 7 sts. (15 sts)

Rnd 14. IN BOTH LOOPS, sc in ea st around. (15 sts) Sc in next st to bring yarn to right position.

Rnd 15. IN BLO, sc in ea st around. (15 sts)

Rnd 16. IN BOTH LOOPS, sc in next 6 sts, (dec over next 2 sts), sc in next 7 sts. (14 sts)

Rnd 17. IN BOTH LOOPS, sc in next 6 sts, (dec over next 2 sts), sc in next 6 sts. (13 sts)

Rnd 18. IN BOTH LOOPS, sc in next 6 sts, (dec over next 2 sts), sc in next 5 sts. (12 sts) Sc in next st to bring
yarn to right position.

29
Rnd 19. IN BLO, sc in next 5 sts, (dec over next 2 sts), sc in next 5 sts. (11 sts)

Rnd 20. IN BOTH LOOPS, sc in next 4 sts, (dec over next 2 sts), sc in next 5 sts. (10 sts)

Rnd 21. IN BOTH LOOPS, sc in next 4 sts, (dec over next 2 sts), sc in next 4 sts. (9 sts)

Rnd 22. IN BOTH LOOPS, sc in next 3 sts, (dec over next 2 sts), sc in next 4 sts. (8 sts) Sc in next st to bring
yarn to right position.

Rnd 23. IN BLO, sc in ea st around. (8 sts)

Rnd 24. IN BOTH LOOPS, sc in ea st around. (8 sts)

Rnd 25. IN BOTH LOOPS, sc in next 3 sts, (dec over next 2 sts), sc in next 3 sts. (7 sts)

Rnd 26. IN BOTH LOOPS, sc in ea st around. (7 sts)

Rnd 27. IN BLO, sc in next 2 sts, (dec over next 2 sts), sc in next 3 sts. (6 sc)

Rnd 28. IN BOTH LOOPS, sc in ea st around. (6 sts)

Rnd 29. Work (dec over next 2 sts - 3 times). Cut yarn, weave in end.

Sew beginning chainless foundation row together with yarn tail. Weave in end.

Stuff horn with fiberfill.

Working in Unworked Loops on Horn

On back of horn, (first row of unworked stitches) attach yarn in the first unworked loop with a slip st, sc in
same st as join. Sc in ea unworked loop around. Join with sl st to first sc. There will be a slight jog between first
and last st. Cut yarn and pull ends to inside of horn.

Repeat process for each row of unworked loops.

Apply polyurethane with small paint brush to entire horn. Let dry until not sticky to touch and is still pliable.
Bend and shape as shown below.

Optional - add color with craft chalk or eyeshadow.

Glue to head in area marked with yellow circle with Fabri-tac glue. Pin in place until glue dries.

30
I left the head lay flat for 3 days to cure.

Apply 3M Command Brand Medium Picture Hanging Strip to the top of back of Dragon’s head and a piece on
the bottom as shown below.

Light-Weight Candle Holder

Work a 150-st Romanian Cord for hanger on candle holder. Leave a long beginning and end tail for sewing.

You are now finished…hope you enjoy your “Guardian Dragon” ! Thank
you and I appreciate your interest and support of SRO-Austin Crochet.
If you have any questions, please contact me at [email protected]

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