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Understanding Swell: Characteristics and Measurement

The document discusses the characteristics of swell, which is wave motion resulting from meteorological disturbances. It explains that swell can travel long distances and maintains a constant direction, with its height decreasing over distance. Additionally, swell is described using terminology related to its direction, length, and height.

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rizzarjberaye17nov2020
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36 views1 page

Understanding Swell: Characteristics and Measurement

The document discusses the characteristics of swell, which is wave motion resulting from meteorological disturbances. It explains that swell can travel long distances and maintains a constant direction, with its height decreasing over distance. Additionally, swell is described using terminology related to its direction, length, and height.

Uploaded by

rizzarjberaye17nov2020
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

e-NP100 - Notices to Mariners may not be up-to-date

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Swell
General information
6.24
1 Introduction Swell is the wave motion caused by a meteorological disturbance that persists after the
disturbance has died or moved away.
Swell can travel for considerable distances from its generating area, and in deep water will
maintain constant direction. As it travels away from its generating area, the height will
decrease, although its length and speed remain constant, thus giving rise to the long, low,
regular undulations so characteristic of swell.
The measurement of swell is complex. Multiple swells from different generating areas are
often present and these may be partially obscured by sea waves.

Terminology
6.25
1 Description Swell is described in terms of its direction, length, and height, as follows:
Direction Swell travels from its source area. For example, a NW swell originates in
the NW.
Length Short 0--100m
Average 100--200m
Long over 200m
Height Low 0--2m
Moderate 2--4m
Heavy over 4m

110

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