■In deep water a wave has a height of 2 m and a period of 8 sec.

Diffraction coefficient is
0.15 at point A inside the harbor. Calculate the wave height at point A.

KDA=0.15 H0=2 m T=8 s

H i  H 0  K si .
d 10
  0.1 
GWT
 Ks10  0.9327
L0 100
𝐻 = 2 × 0.9327 = 1.865 𝑚
H A  H i  K DA .  1.865  0.15  0.28 m
■ Consider the L-shaped breakwater that protects a small harbor dredged to a uniform
depth of 6 m. For a 2 m high, 6 s period incident wave at the head of the breakwater having
the direction shown, what length (B) must the seaward arm of the breakwater have to
diminish the wave height to 0.5 m at point A?”

d=6m Hi=2 m T=6s =120 HA=0.5 m

L0  1.56T 2  1.56  62  56.16 m

d 6 d
  0.1068 
GWT
  0.1471  Li  40.78m
L0 56.16 Li
H A  H i  K DA  0.5  2  K D  K D  0.25
x x 
  ?
Li 40.78  x
  0.25  x  10.2 m B=200+10.2=210.2 m
y 200 40.78
  5
Li 40.78 

■ H0=4 m, T=9 sec, α0=20, m=s=0.02. Calculate the breaking parameters (Hb, db, αb=?).

Kr=1 (assume)
H0  H0 K r  H0  H0  4m
H0 4 Hb
  0.005 
Fig. 2.43
 1.08  H b  1.08  4  4.32 m.
gT 2
9.81 9 2
H0

Hb 4.32 db
  0.0054 
Fig.2.44
 1.17  d b  1.17  4.32  5.05 m.
gT 2
9.81 9 2
Hb

db / L0  5.05/126.36  0.04 

GWT
 tanhkdb  0.4802
sin  b sin  b
 tanh kd b   0.4802   b  9.2
sin  0 sin 20

cos  0 cos 20
K rb    0.98  1
cos  b cos 9.2
Second trial :Kr=0.98 (assume)
H0  H0 K r  4  0.98  3.92m
H0 3.92 Hb
  0.0049 
Fig. 2.43
 1.08  H b  1.08  3.92  4.23m.
gT 2
9.81 9 2
H0

Hb 4.23 db
  0.0053 
Fig.2.44
 1.165  d b  1.165  4.23  4.93 m.
gT 2
9.81 9 2
Hb

db / L0  4.93/126.36  0.04 

GWT
 tanhkdb  0.4802
sin  b sin  b
 tanh kd b   0.4802   b  9.2
sin  0 sin 20

cos  0 cos 20
K rb    0.98  0.98
cos  b cos 9.2
H b  4.23m. and d b  4.93 m.
■ A wave with a period of T=8 sec and a height of H0=5m propagates toward the shore from
deep water.
a) Calculate the breaking wave height, breaking depth and breaking type for the sea bottom
slope of s=m=0.05.
b) If the wave crests in deep water are oriented at an angle of 45 with the shoreline
calculate the breaking parameters.

a) L0  1.56T 2  1.56  82  99.84 m

α0=0 Kr=1
H0  H0 K r  H0  H0  5m
H0 5 Hb
  8 103 
Fig. 2.43
 1.14  H b  1.14  5  5.7 m.
gT 2
9.81 8 2
H0
Hb 5.7 db
  0.0091 
Fig.2.44
 1.12  d b  1.12  5.7  6.38 m.
gT 2
9.81 8 2
Hb
𝑆 0.05
𝜉= = = 0.22 < 0.5 𝑠𝑝𝑖𝑙𝑙𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝑏𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘𝑒𝑟
𝐻 5
𝐿 99.84
b) α0=45
First trial : Kr=1 (assume)
H0  H0 K r  H0  H0
H0 5 Hb
  8 103 
Fig. 2.43
 1.14  H b  1.14  5  5.7 m.
gT 2
9.81 8 2
H0

Hb 5.7 db
  0.0091 
Fig.2.44
 1.12  d b  1.12  5.7  6.38 m.
gT 2
9.81 82
Hb

db / L0  6.38/ 99.84  0.064 

GWT
 tanhkdb  0.591
sin  b sin  b
 tanh kd b   0.591   b  24.7
sin  0 sin 45

cos  0 cos 45
K rb    0.88  1
cos  b cos 24.7
Second trial : Kr=0.88 (assume)
H0  H0 K r  5  0.88  4.4 m
H0 4.4 Hb
  0.007 
Fig. 2.43
 1.18  H b  1.18  5  5.2m.
gT 2
9.81 8 2
H0

Hb 5.2 db
  0.0083 
Fig.2.44
 1.08  d b  1.08  5.2  5.62 m.
gT 2
9.81 82
Hb
db / L0  5.62/ 99.84  0.056 
GWT
 tanhkdb  0.5574
sin  b sin  b
 tanh kd b   0.5574   b  23.2
sin  0 sin 45

cos  0 cos 45
K rb    0.877  0.88
cos  b cos 23.2
H b  5.2 m. and d b  5.62 m.
𝑆 0.05
𝜉= = = 0.22 < 0.5 𝑠𝑝𝑖𝑙𝑙𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝑏𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑘𝑒𝑟
𝐻 5
𝐿 99.84

■ Waves with a period of T=8 sec break at a depth of 5 m. Calculate the breaking wave
height and the deep water wave height if the bottom slope is 1/30 (s=m=1/30).

α0=0 Kr=1 (waves are approaching parallel to the shoreline)

H0  H0 K r  H0  H0

L0  1.56T 2  1.56  82  99.84 m.

d b Hb 5
  0.008
Hb gT 9.81 82
2

 
1.14  0.007  0.00798  0.008
H b  5 /1.14  4.39 m

Hb H0 4.39
  0.007
H0 gT 9.81 82
2

 
1.065  0.0065  0.00692
H0
 0.0065  H0  4.12 m
gT 2

H 0  H 0 K r  4.12 m.
■ Waves with a period of T=8 s break at an angle of 15 degrees and a height of 3 m.
Calculate the breaking depth and the deep water wave height (s=m=0.033).
Hb=3 m, T=8 sec, αb=15, (H0, db=?)
L0  1.56T 2  1.56  82  99.84 m.

Hb 3 db
  0.0048 
Fig.2.44
 1.1  d b  1.1 3  3.3 m.
gT 2
9.81 8 2
Hb

db / L0  3.3/ 99.84  0.033 

GWT
 tanhkdb  0.4392
sin  b sin15
 tanh kd b   0.4392   0  36
sin  0 sin  0

cos  0 cos 36
K rb    0.92
cos  b cos15

Hb H0 3
  0.048
H0 gT2 9.81 82
 
1.14  0.0042  0.0048
Hb / H0  1.14  H0  3 /1.14  2.63

H0  H 0 K r  2.63  H 0  0.92  2.86 m.

■ A wave record for 10 minutes taken during a storm is analyzed by the zero-upcrossing
method and contains 100 waves. Calculate the significant wave height (H1/3=Hs), the mean
wave height (Hmean), the maximum wave height (Hmax) and H1/100 using the table below.

H Wave H Wave
Number Number
0.6 15 1.8-1.99 2
0.6-0.79 15 2.0-2.19 2
0.8-0.99 7 2.2-2.39 2
1.0-1.19 17 2.4-2.59 3
1.2-1.39 5 2.6-2.79 1
1.4-1.59 9 2.8-2.99 1
1.6-1.79 20 3.0-3.19 1
 H Wave Mean Total
Number wave wave
height height
at each
interval
0.6 15 0.6 9
0.6-0.79 15 0.695 10.425
0.8-0.99 7 0.895 6.265
1.0-1.19 17 1.095 18.615
1.2-1.39 5 1.295 6.475
1.4-1.59 9 1.495 13.455
1.6-1.79 20 1.695 33.9
1.8-1.99 2 1.895 3.79
2.0-2.19 2 2.095 4.19
2.2-2.39 2 2.295 4.59
2.4-2.59 3 2.495 7.485
2.6-2.79 1 2.695 2.695
2.8-2.99 1 2.895 2.895
3.0-3.19 1 3.095 3.095
Total 100 126.88

1 1 64.14
𝐻 / = 𝐻 = 𝐻 = = 1.94 𝑚
𝑁 33 33

1 1 126.88
𝐻 = 𝐻 = 𝐻 = = 1.27 𝑚
𝑁 100 100

Hmax  3.095m
1 N 1 N 1 3.095
H 1/100  
N i 1
Hi   Hi 
1 i 1 1
 3.095 m

■ A wind with an average velocity of 9.96 m/s is blowing over for a period of 10 hours. The
effective fetch in the direction of wind is 15 km. Using the CERC (1984) method, what
significant wave height and period will be generated after a) 10 hours and b) 50 minutes?
(Hs, Ts=?).

a) U=9.96 m/sec, Fg=15 km, tg=10 hours

U A  0.71 U1.23  0.71  9.961.23  12 m / sec
1.96 1.96
 U   12 
FFAS   A     333km  Fg  15 km
 0.62   0.62 
t FAS  2.027  U A  2.027  12  24 h  t g  10 h

FFAS>F and tFAS>tg  Developing sea

 13 13
1 F2  1 152 
t  8.93  10     8.93  10     2.37 h  t g  10 h fetch limited
 UA   12 

H s  1.616  102 U A F1/ 2  1.616  10 2  12  151 2  0.75 m

Tm  6.238  10 1 (U A F)1/3  6.238  10 1  12  15 

13
 3.52 sec

Ts  0.95Tm  3.35sec

b) U=9.96 m/sec, F=15 km, t=50 min

U A  0.71 U1.23  0.71  9.961.23  12 m / sec
1.96 1.96
 U   12 
FFAS   A     333km  Fg  15 km
 0.62   0.62 
t FAS  2.027  U A  2.027  12  24 h  t g  10 h

FFAS>F and tFAS>t  Developing sea

13 13
1 F2  1 152 
t  8.93  10     8.93  10     2.37 h  t g  50 min Duration limited
 UA   12 
13
50  F2 
 8.93  10 1     F  3.123 km
60  12 

H s  1.616  102 U A F1/ 2  1.616  10 2  12  3.1231 2  0.34 m

Tm  6.238  101 (U A F)1/3  6.238  101  12  3.123 

13
 2.09 sec

Ts  0.95Tm  1.98sec

■ Wind duration is 3 and 5 hours, respectively for directions below. Calculate the deep water
significant wave heights and periods for each direction (Hs, Ts=?).
a) SSE F=1000 km (effective fetch) U=12.6 m/sec (wind speed)
b) WNW F=30 km (effective fetch) U=7.2 m/sec (wind speed)

a) U=12.6m/s, Fg=1000km, tg=3 hours

u A  0.71 12.61.23  16m / s
1.96
 16 
FFAS    585km  Fg
 0.62 
t FAS  2.027  16  32.4saat  t g
FFAS<Fg and tFAS>tg  Developing sea / duration limited
Fetch?? (after 3 hours)
13
1 F2 
3  8.93  10     F  24.6km
 16 

H s  1.616  102  16  24.61 2  1.28 m

Tm  6.238 101  16  24.6 

13
 4.57s

Ts  0.95Tm  4.34s

b) U=7.2m/s, F=30km, t=5 hours

u A  0.71 7.21.23  8.05m / s
1.96
 8.05 
FFAS    150km  Fg
 0.62 
t FAS  2.027  8.05  16saat  t g

FFAS>F and tFAS>t  Developing sea

13
 F2 
1
5  8.93  10    F  37.6km  Fg  30 km Fetch limited
 8.05 

H s  1.616  102  8.05  301 2  0.71m

Tm  6.238 10 1   8.05  30 

13
 3.88s

Ts  0.95Tm  3.69s
■ A breakwater will be constructed at a 14 m water depth. The biggest rock weight to be
used in cover layer is 30 kN. Stability coefficient (KD) is 4 at trunk and 3 at head. The bottom
slope fronting the structure is m=1/50.
In this question, regular wave conditions will be taken into account for shoaling calculations
and deep water condition will be accepted.
a) The deep water wave height and the period are 3.5 m and 8 sec, respectively. Accordingly,
resize the breakwater trunk section without permitting overtopping (n=2). Which cross-
section below is convenient for the design? Find all layer thicknesses (armor layer, filter layer
and core). Write the dimensions on the breakwater section.
b) Calculate the armor face slope angle at the head section.
Use HUDSON METHOD.
(rock=2700 kg/m3 water =1030 kg/m3)

?
?
SSS SSS
W
W
-H
10
W/

10
-2H

W/10
W/200-W/4000 W/ W/200-W/6000

a) Section for breaking wave b) Section for non-breaking wave

H0 3.5 Hb
a)   0.0055 103 
Fig. 2.43
 1.1  H b  1.1 3.5  3.85m.
gT 2
9.81 82
H0
Hb 3.85 db
  0.0061 
Fig.2.44
 1.18  d b  1.18  3.85  4.54 m.
gT 2
9.81 82
Hb

db <ds non-breaking wave condition  Hd  H 0  K s  K r  K r  1

d 14
  0.14 
GWT
 Ks14  0.9146
L0 100
H14  H0  Ks14  3.5  0.9146  3.2m. (Wave height at the toe of the structure; DESIGN
WAVE HEIGHT)
Trunk
𝛾 ×𝐻 /
𝑊= 𝐻 / = 1.27 × 3.2 = 4.06𝑚
𝐾 × (𝑆 − 1) × 𝑐𝑜𝑡𝛽
× . × .
30000 = ×( . ) ×
→ 𝑐𝑜𝑡𝛽 = 3.47 → 𝛽 = 16°
 R u H0  1.016 tan   H0 L0 
0.5
r
Ru
 1.016  0.288  3.5 100   0.5  R u  2.7 m
0.5

3.5

Rock weights for the non-breaking wave condition

Filter W / 10  30 / 10  3 kN
Core W / 200  30 / 200  0.15kN
Armor layer thickness t k  nKD (W / r g)1/3  2 1 (30000 / 2700  9.81)1/3  2.1m

Filter layer thickness t f  nKD (W / r g)1/3  2 1 (3000 / 2700  9.81)1/3  0.97 m  1m

Crest width b  nKD (W / r g)1/3  3  1 (30000 / 2700  9.81)1/3  3.13m  3.1m

Crest height hc=1+1+2.1=4.1 m

Ru= 2.7 m < Rc=4.1 m There will be no overtopping under these design wave conditions.

b) Head
2700  9.81 4.063
30000   cot   4.63    12
3  2.62  1 cot 
3
■ A breakwater will be built in a 7 m water depth. The deep water wave height and period
are 2 m and 6 sec, respectively.
Calculate the rock weight. Calculate the crest height without permitting overtopping. Which
cross-section below is convenient for the design? Find all layer thicknesses (armor layer,
filter layer and core). Write the dimensions on the brekwater section.
(rock=2650 kg/m3 water =1030 kg/m3, KD=3, sea bottom slope m=1/50)
Use the methods given below:
a) Hudson method
b) Van der Meer method (Stability calculations and Run-up height with irregular wave
shoaling)

?
?
SSS SSS
W
W
-H
10
W/

10
-2H

W/
W/200-W/4000 W/200-W/6000
W/10

a) Section for breaking wave b) Section for non-breaking wave

a) Hudson
H0 2 Hb
  0.00566  103 
Fig. 2.43
 1.19  H b  1.19  2  2.38m.
gT 2
9.81 6 2
H0
Hb 2.38 db
  0.0067 
Fig.2.44
 1.21  d b  1.21 2.38  2.88 m.
gT 2
9.81 6 2
Hb
db <ds non-breaking wave  Hd  H 0  K s  K r  K r  1
d 7
  0.125 
GWT
 Ks7  0.9185
L0 56.16
Hs7  H0  Ks7  2  0.9185  1.84m. (Design wave height)
Incline of slope 1/1.5

𝛾 ×𝐻 /
𝑊= 𝐻 / = 1.27 × 1.84 = 2.34𝑚
𝛾
2 × 𝛾 − 1 × 𝑐𝑜𝑡𝛽

2.65 × 9.81 × 2.34

𝑊= = 19𝑘𝑁
3 × (2.57 − 1) × 1.5

R u H 0  1.016 tan   H 0 L0 
0.5
r
Ru
 1.016  (1/1.5)  2 56.16   0.5  R u  3.59 m
0.5

2
Non-breaking wave Filter W / 10  19 / 10  1.9 kN
Core W / 200  19 / 200  0.095kN
Armour layer thickness t k  nKD (W / r g)1/3  2 1 (19 / 2.65  9.81)1/3  1.8m
Filter layer thickness t f  nKD (W /  r g)1/3  2  1 (1.9 / 2.65  9.81)1/3  0.84 m
Crest width b  nKD (W / r g) 1/3
 3  1 (19 / 2.65  9.81)1/3  2.7 m
Crest height Rc=1+0.84+1.8=3.64 m
Ru= 3.59 m < Rc=3.64 m No overtopping

b) Van der Meer

𝑑 7
= = 3.8 > 3 𝑑𝑒𝑒𝑝 𝑤𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑟
𝐻𝑠, 𝑡𝑜𝑒 1.84

Van der Meer (1988) deep water solution: (tan=1/1.5, P=0.4, S=2 and N=3000)

Ts  1.16Tm  6  1.16Tm  Tm  5.17s

Tm 1,0  1.13Tm  1.13  5.17  5.84s

𝑡𝑎𝑛𝛼 1/1.5
𝜉 = = = 3.17 𝐿 = 1.56 × 5.17 = 41.69𝑚
𝐻, 1.84
𝐿 41.69
1
1
 6.2  0.4+0.5
ξ mc = 6.2P 0.31 tanα  
P+0.5
 0.40.31 (1/1.5)   4.42
 1 
m < mc for plunging waves
0.2
Hs  S 
=6.2P0.18   ξ m-0.5
ΔDn50  N
0.2
Hs  2 
=6.2  0.40.18   3.17-0.5  1.52
ΔDn50  3000 

𝜌 −𝜌 2650 − 1030
∆= = = 1.57
𝜌 1030
 Hs 1.84
=1.52  =1.52  Dn50  0.77 m
ΔDn50 1.57Dn50

𝑊 = 𝛾 (𝐷 ) = 𝜌 𝑔(𝐷 ) = 2.65 × 9.81 × 0.77 = 11.91𝑘𝑁

𝑡𝑎𝑛𝛼 1/1.5
𝜉 , = = = 3.58 𝐿 , = 1.56 × 5.84 = 53.2𝑚
𝐻 1.84
,
𝐿 53.29
,

𝑅 %
= 1.75𝛾 𝛾 𝛾 𝜉 ,
𝐻,
𝛾 =1 𝛾 =1 𝛾 = 0.4(𝑟𝑜𝑐𝑘)

𝑅 %
= 1.75 × 1 × 0.4 × 1 × 3.58 → 𝑅 % = 4.61𝑚
1.84

Non-breaking wave Filter W / 10  11.91 / 10  1.2kN

Core W / 200  11.91/ 200  0.06 kN
Armor layer thickness t k  nKD (W / r g)1/3  2 1 (11.91/ 2.65  9.81)1/3  1.55m
Filter layer thickness t f  nKD (W / r g)1/3  2 1 (1.2 / 2.65  9.81)1/3  0.73m
Crest width b  nKD (W / r g)1/3  3  1 (11.91/ 2.65  9.81)1/3  2.75 m
Crest height Rc=1+0.73+1.55=3.28 m

Ru%2= 4.61 m > Rc=3.28 m

Overtopping can be reduced by using crown wall or increasing the width of crest width or
height.
■ A breakwater for a small marina is constructed at a depth of 6 m. The armor face slope of
the breakwater is 1/3. The incident deep water wave height is 7 m with a period of 10 s.
By using HUDSON METHOD;
a) Calculate the rock weight for the trunk.
b) Calculate the crest height without permitting overtopping.
c) Which cross-section below is convenient for the design? Find all layer thicknesses (armor
layer, filter layer and core). Write the dimensions on the appropriate breakwater section.
(Wave orthogonal is perpendicular with the bathymetry. rock=2.6 t/m3 water =1 t/m3, KD=2,
nfilter=ncover=2, breakwater crest will be build up by placing 5 stones side by side, sea bottom
slope is m=1/ 33)
?
?
SSS SSS
W
W
-H
10
W/

10
-2H

W/
W/200-W/4000 W/200-W/6000
W/10

a) Section for breaking wave b) Section for non-breaking wave

a) α0=0 Kr=1
H0  H0  7 m
𝐿 = 1.56 × 𝑇 = 1.56 × 10 = 156𝑚
H0 7 Hb
  0.0071 
Fig. 2.43
 1.1  H b  7.7 m
gT 2
9.81 10 2
H0
Hb 7.7 db
  0.0078 
Fig.2.44
 1.18  d b  9.08 m
gT 2
9.8110 2
Hb
db >ds breaking wave condition
db= 6 m Hb=?
d b Hb 6
  0.0061  Hb  5.37 m
Hb gT 9.81102
2

𝜌 ×𝐻 /
𝑊= 𝐻 / = 1.27 × 5.37 = 6.82𝑚
𝜌
𝐾 × 𝜌 − 1 × 𝑐𝑜𝑡𝛽

2.6 × 6.82
𝑊= = 33𝑡
2 × (2.6 − 1) × 3
Rock weights for the breaking wave condition
Since it is not possible to obtain the stone of the specified weight from the quarry, armour
layer will be formed with the concrete block.

The slope slope with tetrapod will be taken as 1 / 1.5.

 2.4  5.373
Tetrapod  beton  2.4 t / m3 K D,tetrapod  7 W  12.9 t
7  2.4  1 1.5
3

Breaking wave Filter W /10  12.9 / 10  1.3 t

Core W / (200  4000)  12.9 / (200  4000)  (0.065  0.003) t

Armour layer thickness 𝑡 = 𝑛𝐾 (𝑊/𝜌 ) / = 2 × 1.1 × (12.9/2.4) / = 3.5𝑚

For Tetrapod K 'D  1.1
Filter layer thickness 𝑡 = 𝑛𝐾 (𝑊/𝜌 ) / = 2 × 1.1 × (1.3/2.4) / = 1.58𝑚
Crest width 𝑏 = 𝑛𝐾 (𝑊/𝜌 ) / = 5 × 1.1 × (12.9/2.4) / = 8.8𝑚

𝑅
= 1.016𝑡𝑎𝑛𝛽(𝐻 /𝐿 ) . 𝛾
𝐻
𝑅
= 1.016(1/1.5)(7/156) . × 0.5 → 𝑅 = 11.2
7
Crest height:
Rc=1+1.58+3.5=6.08 m
Ru= 11.2 m >Rc=6.08 m There will be overtopping under these circumtances

■ At a depth of 20 m, waves of height 1.9 m and period 7 s are observed to travel inshore.
Estimate the run-up of the waves on the composite slope as shown in Figure.

L0=1.56T2=76.5m
d/L0=20/76.5=0.26 Ks20=0.9356 H20=H0 Ks H0=2 m
Breaking depth is determined using the breaking charts, db=3.30 m
First trial;
Assume a run-up of 2m above SWL.
from the wave breaking section to the run-up
The horizontal distance is x=10+5+6+10+3=34 m
The vertical distance is y=2+3.3=5.3 m
The average slope is tan=5.30/34= 0.1564.
Ru/H0=1.016tan(H0/L0)-0.5
Ru/2=1.016x0.156x(2/76.5)-0.5
Ru=2x0.98=1.96 m ≠ 2 m
Second trial; Assume that Ru_1.96 m.
The horizontal distance is x=9.8+5+6+10+3=33.8 m
The vertical distance is y= 1.96+3.30=5.26 m
The average slope is tan=5.26/33.8=0.156
Ru/2=1.016x0.156x(1.96/76.5)-0.5
Ru=2x0.98=1.96 m = 1.96 m
Wave run-up is 1.96 m.

 A wave with a significant period of Ts=9.4 s and a height of Hs0=4m propagates toward
the shore from deep water on parallel bottom contours where refraction coefficient is
Kr=1. Sea bottom slope is s=m=1/30. Assume that T1/3=9.4 s is representative for all the
individual waves in the sea state, find the percent of waves breaking with Hb4.7 m (i.e.
breaker height is equal or bigger than 4.7 m.

L0  1.56T 2  1.56  9.42  137.84 m

Hb Hb 4.7
  0.0048 
Fig.2.44
 1.24  H0   3.79 m.  H 0 (K r  1)
gT 2
9.81 9.4 2
H0 1.24
Q  (H 0  3.79 m)  exp(2(3.79 / 4) 2 )  0.166 m
■ A storm in deep water generates waves which travel towards the shore, impinging on a
breakwater. The breakwater is a vertical wall erected on a rubble mound as shown in the
figure. Design wave height and period are 1.87m and 4.7s, respectively.
The base of the vertical wall and the sea bed are respectively 3m and 8m below HWL. Find
the maximum force on the vertical wall and the bending moment about A using Sainflou’s
method.

Deep water wave length;

L0=1.56T2=1.56x4.72=34.5 m
d/L0=8/34.5=0.23→ L=32m
H/d=1.87/8=0.23 NO BREAKING, there is clapotis, therefore;
Pmax on the bed is given by;
 H 
p maks  g   d
 cosh(kd) 

k=2/L kd=2d/L=2x8/32=1.57
1.87 
p maks  1030x9.81   8  88.4x103
 2.51  N/m2

H 2 2d 1.87 2
h0  cot anh ( ) cot anh (1.57)  0.37 m
L L 32

Assume linear distribution;

d+H+h0=8+1.87+0.37=10.24 m.
Take y positive downwards from SWL. The pressure on the base of the vertical wall, with the
crest of clapotis at the wall, is;

( z  H  h0 )  H  88.4 x10 3
p max  g  d   10.24 ( z  h0  H )
(d  H  h0 )  cosh(kd ) 
= 8.63x103(3+0.37+1.87)=8.63x103x5.24 N/m2
The force on the vertical face is;
 1  H 
Fma ks  g(d  H  h 0 )   d   (d  H  h 0 )p maks / 2
2  cosh(kd) 

Fmax=8.63x103x5.242/2=118.5x103 N/m2 (per unit length of the wall)

MOMENT ABOUT A because of the linear pressure distribution,
MA=118.5x103x5.24/3=206.9x103 Nm/m

■ A vertical breakwater with a water depth of 10 m will be constructed. The incident angle
of a wave with a deep water significant wave height of 4 m and a period of 9 s is 30°. The
permitted wave height at the harbour side of the breakwater is 0.75m. Calculate the safety
factors of this structure, which will be constructed 15 m high and 6 m wide, against
overturning and sliding. Consider the friction factor of concrete as  = 0.8 and the specific
gravity of the concrete as c=24 kN/m3.

L0=1.56T2=1.56x92=126 m

d/L0=10/126=0.0794

d/L=0.122 L=82.97 m

Ks=0.956 sin0/ sin=L0/L sin30/ sin=126/82.97

sin=0.329 =19

cos  0 cos 30
Kr    0.957
cos  cos19

H=H0.Kr.Ks =4x0.956x0.957=3.66 m

d/H=10/3.66=2.73>1.2 non-breaking wave.

Offshore side;

H2  2 d   x3.66
2
 2 x10 
h0  coth    coth    0.79m
L  L  82.97  82.97 
Harbor side;

 x0.752  2 x10 
h0  coth    0.03m
82.97  82.97 
Max. pressure at the offshore side;

H 3.66
Pmax 2  g  10  27.9 kN/m 2
cosh(kd ) 1.31
Pressure at SWL For z=0 ;
 z  H  h0  H 
Pmax 1  g  cosh(kd )  d 
d  H  h0  

H  h0  H  H  h0   H 
Pmaks1  g   d  Pmaks1  g   d 
d  H  h 0  cosh(kd) = d  H  h0   cosh(kd) 

H  h0
Pmaks1   Pmak2  gd
d  H  h0

3.66  0.79
Pmaks1  27.9  10x10  39.4 kN/m2
10  3.66  0.79
Harbour side;;
H 0.75

Pmaks2  g  10x  5.7 kN / m 2
cosh(kd) 1.31

  g(H  h 0 )  10x(0.75  0.03)  7.2 kN/m2

Pmaks1

Forces Moment Moment Overturning

moment
arm
(kNm)

(kN) (m) (kNm)

W=6x(5x24+10x14) =1560.0 3.0 4680

U1=1/2x6x5.7 =17.1 2.0 34.2

U2=1/2x6x27.9 =83.7 4.0 334.8

V=W+U1-U2 =1493.4

F1=1/2Pmak1x(H+h0)=1/2x39.4x4.45 =87.7 11.48 1006.8

F2=10x27.9 =279.0 5.0 1385.0

F3=1/2x(39.4-27.9)x10 =57.5 6.67 383.5

F4=1/2x(0.75x7.2) =2.6 9.52 24.8

F5=P’mak2(10-(H-h0))=5.7x9.28 =52.9 4.64 245.5

F6=1/2x(7.2-5.7)x9.28 =7.5 6.16 46.2

H =487.2 4714.2 3426.6

M direnç 4714.2 V 0.8x(1493.4)

Fsdeviren    1.37 Fs kayma    2.45
M deviren 3426.6 H 487.2
Resultant force; R,

R=(1493.42+487.22)=1571 kN
Moverturning=H.y

3426.6=487.2y y=7.03m

1493.4(6/2-x)-487.2(7.03)=0

x=0.73 m

■ Calculate the wave pressure, uplift pressure, and their moments produced by waves of the
following characteristics incident on the upright section of the vertical breakwater shown in the
figure (Goda, 2000)

Waves : H 0  6.3m , T1/3=11.4 s, =15

Tide level : 0.6 m

Sea bottom slope : tan = 1/100

Cross-section of a vertical breakwater (units in meters)

1) Water depth and crest elevation

h=10.1 m

h   7.1m
d=5.6 m
hc=3.4 m

2) Wave length and wave height

L0=1.56T2=1.5611.42=202.7 m

H 0 h
 0.031  0.05
L0 L0

Significant wave height infront of the structure

H1/3=5.8 m (water depth: h=10.1 m)

The design wave height :

hb=10.1+55.8(1/100)=10.4 m

Hmaks=8.0 m

3) Coefficients for the wave pressure

2
1  4h L 
1  0.6     0.92
2  sinh4h L 

 h  d  H mak  2 2d  10.4  5.6  8.0  2 2  5.6 

 2  min  b   ,   min    ,   min0.314,1.40  0.314
 3h b  d  H mak   3  10.4  5.6  8.0 

h'  1  7.1
3  1  1    1 1  0.847   0.892
h  cosh(2h L  10.1

4) Maximum elevation of the wave pressure

cos   0.966

*  0.75(1  cos )H maks

*  0.75(1  0.966)  8.0  11.8m

5) Pressure components

p1 
1
2
   
1  cos    1   2 cos 2  gH mak  1 1  0.966  0.920  0.314  0.966 2  1030  9.8  8.0
2

p1=96.3 kPa

p3=3p1=0.892x96.3=85.9kPa


*  h c  p 1 1  h c * 
*  h c  0

 3.4 
p4  96.3 1    68.6kPa
 11.8 
6) Total pressure and uplift
 1
pu  (1  cos )13gH maks  0.983  0.920  0.892  1030  9.8  8.0  65.1kPa
2
 
h c  min * , h c  min11.8,3.4  3.4
*

1 1 1 1
P  (p1  p3 )h  (p1  p4 )h*c  (96.3  85.9)  7.1  (96.3  68.6)  3.4  927kN / m
2 2 2 2

1 1
U pu B   65.1  15.0  488kN / m
2 2
7) Moment of wave pressure

1
Mp  2p1  p 3 h' 2  1 p1  p 4 h' h *c  1 p1  2p u h *c 2
6 2 6
1
Mp  2  96.3  85.9  7.12  1 96.3  68.6  71  3.4  1 96.3  2  68.6  3.4 2
6 2 6
Mp = 4780 kNm/m

2 2
Mu  UB   488  15.0  4880kNm / m
8) Moment of uplift pressure 3 3

 Calculate the stability of the caisson structure to be built in the project area where the specific
gravity of the sea water is 10.20 kN/m3. The deep water significant wave height and significant
wave period are Hs0=4.0m and Ts=8.0s., respectively. Bottom slope will be considered as 1/30.
Friction factor between caisson concrete structure and rubble mound foundation is   0.5 .
Safety factor against sliding will be considered as 1.1 whereas safety factor against overturning as
1.2.

Water depth at the toe of the structure d=8m

L 0  1.56T 2  1.56  82  100 m.

h 8
  0.08  0.2
L 0 100

H s  min   0 H 0  1h  ,  maks H 0 , K s H 0 

H 0  H 0 K r K d  H 0 H s0  4m

Ks=0.9548 (GWT)
0.38
 H 
exp  20 tan1.5 ()   0.028(0.04) 0.38 exp  20 1 / 30    0.1705
1.5
 0  0.028  0 
 
 L0 
1  0.52 exp  4.2 tan( )   0.5981

  H0 
0.29

 maks  maks 0.92, 0.32   exp  2.4 tan() 
  L0  

  2.4  
 maks  maks 0.92, 0.32  0.04    maks 0.92, 0.8816  0.92
0.29
exp 
  30  

H s  min   0 H 0  1h  ,  maks H 0 , K s H 0   min  0.1075  4  0.5981  8  , (0.92  4), 0.9548  4

H s  min  5.2148  , (3.68), (3.82)  3.68 m

hb=Water depth at a distance of 5Hs seaward of the toe of the structure

h b  h  5H s m  8  5  3.68  (1 / 30)  8.61m

Hmax = Design wave height (≈1.8Hs)

h b 8.61
  0.0861  0.2
L 0 100


H maks  min  *0 H 0  1*h b  , *maks H 0 , 1.8K s H0 
H 0  H 0 K r K d  H 0 H s0  4m
0.38
 H 
  0.052  0 
*
0 exp  20 tan1.5 ()   0.1994
 L0 

1*  0.63exp 3.8 tan()   0.7151

  H 0 
0.29

 *
maks  maks 1.65, 0.53   exp  2.4 tan()   1.65
  L0  

 
H maks  min  *0 H 0  1*h b  , *maks H0 , 1.8K s H0  6.6m

*  0.75 1  1 cos   H maks

1=Configuration factor (=1)

=Wave approaching angle (usually taken as 15, but to be on the safe side it is considered as 0)
*  0.75 1  (1) cos(0)  6.6  9.9m

Wave pressure on the front of the structure

h 8 h
  0.08  ADKT  0.1232  L  64.9m
L 0 100 L

2 2
 h   8 
 4   4 
1 L 1 64.9
1  0.6     0.6     0.8374
2  h  2  8 
sinh  4  sinh  4 
  L     64.9  

 h b  d  H maks  2 2d 
 2  min    , 
 3h b  d  H maks 
 8.61  6.5  6.6  2  6.5 
2

 2  min    ,   0.0843, 1.9697  0.0843

 3  8.61  6.5  6.6 
2 2
   
h  1  6.5  1 
 3  1  1    1 1    0.8051
h  h  8   8 
cosh  2   cosh  2  
  L     64.9  

1
p1  1  cos    11   2 2 cos 2   gH maks
2
2 =Correction factor depends on the structure type (=1)

1
p1  1  cos 0   0.8374  1  0.0843  1 cos 2 0 10  6.6  60.8 kN / m 2
2
 p1 60.8
p2    46.2 kN / m 2
 h  8 
cosh  2  cosh  2 
 L  64.9 

p 3   3 p1  0.8051 60.8  49 kN / m 2

Uplift pressure

1
pu  1  cos   1 3 3gH maks
2
3 =Yapı tipine bağlı düzeltme faktörü (=1)

1
pu  1  1 0.8374  0.8051 110  6.6  44.5 kN / m 2
2
Check factors of safety
Total wave pressure force

1 1
p  p1  p3  h    p1  p 4  h *c
2 2

h *c  min  h c , *   2.5 m

  hc  
 p1  1  *  ;   h c 
*
 2.5 
p4        p 4  60.8  1    45.5 kN / m
2

0   9.9 
 ;  *
 h c

1 1
p  60.8  49  6.5   60.8  45.5  2.5  489.8 kN / m
2 2
Total moment due to wave pressure force

1 1 1
Mp   2p1  p 3  (h ) 2   p1  p 4  h h *c   p1  2p 4  (h *c ) 2
6 2 6
1 1 1
M p   2  60.8  49  (6.5) 2   60.8  45.5  6.5  2.5   60.8  2  45.5  (2.5) 2
6 2 6
M p  2223.5 kN / m

Total uplift pressure force

1
U p u B  0.5  44.5  5  111.3 kN / m
2
Total moment due to uplift force
 2 2
Mu  UB   111.3  5  370.8 kN / m
3 3
Factor of safety against sliding

F.S. 
M g  U
p

M g   c B  h   h c    w Bh   755 kN / m

 w Bh   Yüzdürme kuvveti
is buoyancy force

F.S. 
 755  111.3 0.5  0.657  1.1
Not safe
489.8
Factor of safety against overturning

F.S. 
M t  M  ,
g u
t  B/2
Mp

F.S. 
 755  (5 / 2)  370.8   0.682  1.2
Not safe
2223.5